A couple tips from someone who has used this product with success: when heating the Pli Stix you want to ensure that you have a tight and narrow flame otherwise, you torch your asphalt in the process and it looks unsightly. Refrain from using a lawn and garden torch but rather a standard handheld 14.1 propane cylinder with an extension hose kit. Also, if you're doing this on a warm, sunny day, take the Pli Stix out of the packaging and lay it on the asphalt in the sun so it warms up a bit before trying to put in the cracks. As has been mentioned, you want to seal your driveway after filling the cracks to prevent further oxidation.
very good info that I can agree with... I hope others read this, a focused flame and pre heat the material in the sun.. thanks so much for the comment!
I think you need to heat the crack stix more so it would liquify enough to flow and form a smooth bead. Then you didn't have to add those small stix to fill in the gaps and re-torch.
ybrik5 possibly, many variables, some cracks are deep and if I liquify too much it would take a lot of material, it’s like a never ending pit.. one thing I should have done, on the smaller cracks use a small torch and take my time filling.. in the end I did get the material to spread out and smooth out.. thanks for the comment.
Hi! Great video demo! I'm an Fx Costumer and was looking at this product thinking I could coat porous Foam surfaces with it before painting the actual color. But I now see I would "melt everything" & possibly cause another wild Southern California Fire. Getting better results with Roof Crack Sealer Liquiids, also at Home Depot. At frame 8:52 I see you look just like William Shatner from Star Trek! You simply must suit up like him, one day at a Comic-Con (bring the Kids)! Your "Shatner Likeness" is so good until you can keep your beard! Great Presentation!
Thanks for giving me a laugh today! you know you might be on to something... what you could do, depending on the effect you want, and material being used. I would heat this up in a small pot on a stove, it could be heated to a point of just being very pliable and workable/moldable, all the way to the point of a liquid.. It certainly could be used as an artistic addition to some sort of project... at low temp it might not hurt foam, at higher temps you could pour it for other interesting effects... Thanks for the comment and subscribe if you wish, I have many how to vids.. Thanks again!
Justice 60 for sure, take your time. Sprinkle some sand, it all blends fine especially if you go over with black driveway sealer, also focus on filling the crack.. personally I was not concerned so I was pretty sloppy. I’d consider using a smaller torch to do a better job on small cracks.
For the tiny cracks, I saw someone hold a longer piece of the pli stix over the crack and heat the pli stix itself and let it drip on it, rather than pushing it in the crack. Your way gives me two ways to try tomorrow.
you think so? the most powerful electric ones i could fine at HD's site were only about 500-600°C / 1200-1400°F. Propane easily gets to 1900°C / 3600°F. Not sure electricity-powered heat gun would melt the cord's plastic sheath easily. btw, thanks for a good video. also, the manufacturer recommends sticking the cord *below* surface. did you have any troubles with it being on top of the asphalt?
500c would melt it like butter. Yes normally for cracks you want to push in and fill, then heat, for smaller cracks I would stretch it out and lay on top of crack and melt so it would fill(worked well for smaller cracks that are not deep. What I liked about the propane was basically less time on my knees with the longer end, was being kinda lazy. The end I used was not too expensive, 20-30 Canadian or USA dollars, was made for killing weeds and stuff. The little propane tanks here are about 7 dollars. My only concern with the heat gun is you need a good heavy extension chord. Propane would be the cheapest route, it if you need a heat gun anyway, give it a go.
oh, thanks for the confirmation. i was actually thinking about getting a heat gun to help with small projects around the house. and i didn't want to use propane at all (kind of afraid of those flammable/explosive gases). also wanted to save money (getting one heat gun vs buying torch as well).
oh, thanks for confirming. i was trying to figure if i could save money and only get one device (vs also buying propane tanks and torch. and i'm kind of concerned about keeping all those flammable/explosive stuff at home). do you know if Latex-Ite's Pli-Stix is better than Crack-Rite Crack-Stix (the latter claiming lifetime(sic!) warranty)?
Here's a thought for the real narrow cracks where you can't get the "rope" countersunk fully: Lay the Pli Stix over the crack. Heat and let as much melt into the crack as possible. Then for the remaining that is on top of the surface, take a metal putty knife and work it into the crack further, gliding the molten stix off the surface and into the crevice. If you have ever grouted ceramic tile, use that technique. Where you make the passes over the crevice on an angle. i.e. don't run your putty knife parallel with the crack, nor directly perpendicular over the crack, but more so make crisscross patterns about 45 degrees back and forth. I think that would clean it up very nicely. Work in small sections so you can move around the molten product before it hardens.
Actually it works out fine.. reason? With the asphalt driveway, once you put a sealer on it after it looks good.... if you have an asphalt driveway.. especially in colder climates you have to seal it every few years.. but yes.. I get your point..... Thanks for the comment!
the problem is it's kinda tricky to apply it the way they advertise. u start melting it, plastic wrap starts shrinking and the whole cord twists out of the crack. i ended up doing it in a way similar to K&D's style (sorry, don't know your name), i'm melting the end of the cord and get the sealer drip right into the crack. it's w-a-a-a-y more laborious but the results look more neat.
A couple tips from someone who has used this product with success: when heating the Pli Stix you want to ensure that you have a tight and narrow flame otherwise, you torch your asphalt in the process and it looks unsightly. Refrain from using a lawn and garden torch but rather a standard handheld 14.1 propane cylinder with an extension hose kit. Also, if you're doing this on a warm, sunny day, take the Pli Stix out of the packaging and lay it on the asphalt in the sun so it warms up a bit before trying to put in the cracks. As has been mentioned, you want to seal your driveway after filling the cracks to prevent further oxidation.
very good info that I can agree with... I hope others read this, a focused flame and pre heat the material in the sun.. thanks so much for the comment!
I found that a MAP gas torch has higher heat and a tighter flame. Good advice, thanks brother 👍
Dude I love your calm demeanor you explain things very well. I appreciate the video.
Thanks…. Have a great day…..
Great video. This is the route I’m going to go to fill some cracks.
Those shoes with those socks😂😂 Ultimate Dad status has been achieved.
I think you need to heat the crack stix more so it would liquify enough to flow and form a smooth bead. Then you didn't have to add those small stix to fill in the gaps and re-torch.
ybrik5 possibly, many variables, some cracks are deep and if I liquify too much it would take a lot of material, it’s like a never ending pit.. one thing I should have done, on the smaller cracks use a small torch and take my time filling.. in the end I did get the material to spread out and smooth out.. thanks for the comment.
Hi! Great video demo! I'm an Fx Costumer and was looking at this product thinking I could coat porous Foam surfaces with it before painting the actual color. But I now see I would "melt everything" & possibly cause another wild Southern California Fire. Getting better results with Roof Crack Sealer Liquiids, also at Home Depot. At frame 8:52 I see you look just like William Shatner from Star Trek! You simply must suit up like him, one day at a Comic-Con (bring the Kids)! Your "Shatner Likeness" is so good until you can keep your beard! Great Presentation!
Thanks for giving me a laugh today! you know you might be on to something... what you could do, depending on the effect you want, and material being used. I would heat this up in a small pot on a stove, it could be heated to a point of just being very pliable and workable/moldable, all the way to the point of a liquid.. It certainly could be used as an artistic addition to some sort of project... at low temp it might not hurt foam, at higher temps you could pour it for other interesting effects... Thanks for the comment and subscribe if you wish, I have many how to vids.. Thanks again!
Helpful thanks
Nice socks!!
Should you put sand at the bottom of crack of the crack is 1 inch deep.
how do i do hairline cracks 1/8 th of an inch
calikokat100 just stretch the stuff like pulling gum apart, lay it on the crack and heat it up..
I imagine while this stuff is very hot and melted, can you throw sand on there to make it blend better with the roughness of the asphalt?
Justice 60 for sure, take your time. Sprinkle some sand, it all blends fine especially if you go over with black driveway sealer, also focus on filling the crack.. personally I was not concerned so I was pretty sloppy. I’d consider using a smaller torch to do a better job on small cracks.
Can you seal coat directly over this material or do you need to prime it like an oil stain?
I just put the sealer on it.. seems fine…
Great instructions and advice.
Keep up the great work brother 👍
If a crack is deep, let’s say 1 inch, would you fill the bottom with sand first?
Yes I would fill it for sure, good plan! Leave about 1/4 inch to fill with stick…
@@kd_enterprise3404 would it have to be polymeric sand? Or would any sand do the trick?
@@raczyk well it’s just a driveway, so any sand will do… the finer the better especially for small cracks..
For the tiny cracks, I saw someone hold a longer piece of the pli stix over the crack and heat the pli stix itself and let it drip on it, rather than pushing it in the crack. Your way gives me two ways to try tomorrow.
Thanks for making this video ..it helped me a lot!
Welcome!
you mentioned heat gun. i could not find melting temperature of those cords. do you think an electric heat gun can be used to do the job?
I think a heat gun would work great!
you think so? the most powerful electric ones i could fine at HD's site were only about 500-600°C / 1200-1400°F. Propane easily gets to 1900°C / 3600°F. Not sure electricity-powered heat gun would melt the cord's plastic sheath easily. btw, thanks for a good video. also, the manufacturer recommends sticking the cord *below* surface. did you have any troubles with it being on top of the asphalt?
500c would melt it like butter. Yes normally for cracks you want to push in and fill, then heat, for smaller cracks I would stretch it out and lay on top of crack and melt so it would fill(worked well for smaller cracks that are not deep. What I liked about the propane was basically less time on my knees with the longer end, was being kinda lazy. The end I used was not too expensive, 20-30 Canadian or USA dollars, was made for killing weeds and stuff. The little propane tanks here are about 7 dollars. My only concern with the heat gun is you need a good heavy extension chord. Propane would be the cheapest route, it if you need a heat gun anyway, give it a go.
oh, thanks for the confirmation. i was actually thinking about getting a heat gun to help with small projects around the house. and i didn't want to use propane at all (kind of afraid of those flammable/explosive gases). also wanted to save money (getting one heat gun vs buying torch as well).
oh, thanks for confirming. i was trying to figure if i could save money and only get one device (vs also buying propane tanks and torch. and i'm kind of concerned about keeping all those flammable/explosive stuff at home).
do you know if Latex-Ite's Pli-Stix is better than Crack-Rite Crack-Stix (the latter claiming lifetime(sic!) warranty)?
Here's a thought for the real narrow cracks where you can't get the "rope" countersunk fully: Lay the Pli Stix over the crack. Heat and let as much melt into the crack as possible. Then for the remaining that is on top of the surface, take a metal putty knife and work it into the crack further, gliding the molten stix off the surface and into the crevice. If you have ever grouted ceramic tile, use that technique. Where you make the passes over the crevice on an angle. i.e. don't run your putty knife parallel with the crack, nor directly perpendicular over the crack, but more so make crisscross patterns about 45 degrees back and forth. I think that would clean it up very nicely. Work in small sections so you can move around the molten product before it hardens.
Good Comment, it's that time of year so I will be giving the putty knife a go...
Asphalt, not ashfault.
small pipi
Well to be honest that looks terrible, might seal the crack but looks bad. Thanks for the effort thou
Actually it works out fine.. reason? With the asphalt driveway, once you put a sealer on it after it looks good.... if you have an asphalt driveway.. especially in colder climates you have to seal it every few years.. but yes.. I get your point..... Thanks for the comment!
It's nice to see it will fuse once heated but it is difficult to apply as compared to a regular pour crack filler.
the problem is it's kinda tricky to apply it the way they advertise. u start melting it, plastic wrap starts shrinking and the whole cord twists out of the crack. i ended up doing it in a way similar to K&D's style (sorry, don't know your name), i'm melting the end of the cord and get the sealer drip right into the crack. it's w-a-a-a-y more laborious but the results look more neat.
How long do you have to wait till you could put sealer over it? I would like to do my driveway in one day.
Not long at all, however long it takes to cool off is the cure time...
yes. it takes about half an hour for it to cure and loose stickiness. may depend on the air temperature though.