I would add my latest purchase, the discontinued Zenith Captain Winsor Annual Calendar. The annual calendar module on top of the El Primero movement was designed by the master of calendar watchmaking, Ludwig Oechslin. His implementation of the annual calendar is ingeniously simple to use and it’s famous for requiring very few additional parts and for being fully adjustable through the crown. Some of these watches can be found for less than a Tudor Black Bay.
HW is definitely on of the brands I need to add to my collection. That Sinn is awesome, definitely high horology. The DR Retrograde is on my list as well. Thanks Bill.
I have a DR Retrograde, and it is a cool watch... just a little perspective adjustment each time I wear it, Abdul. (I may have to sell it if I get another DR!) Take care, Bill
Excellent video, as always! The UWD 33.1 was also used by the Munich based jeweller Leinfelder in it's limited Elysium models, I think you probably mentioned this in a former video? MSRP has been from € 9.500.- (steel) to 21.500.- (precious metals). Unfortunately I missed the steel version ...
Yes Jöge, Leinfelder did have some watches with UWD 33.1-are they still in business? I had thought of getting one, but (no intended offense) but they were some of the ugliest designs I've seen. Take care, Bill
@watchartsci Hi Bill, you are right: also for us, who find, the movement is the most important part of a watch, couldn't ignore the "faces" of the steel versions, trying to repeat the petticoat design of the bridges as an element on the dial, for whatever reason. The models in precious metal were designed "old school" and looked way better. As far as I can see, Leinfelder doesn't have this watches in their portfolio any more. Greetings, Jörg
14:00 is a great looking watch. But, that big 24 in the middle of the dial distracts from the rest of the dial. It's a beautiful dial but the eyes are drawn to that big 24 like a magnet.
Hey Bill, I recognised the Marco Lang movement (too many hours looking at L&H) but had no idea it was also in a Sinn. I prefer the Hector dial but Sinn offers precious metal at half the price. Great value, thank you. All the best, Ed
@watchartsci The L&H Hektor uses the UWD 33.2 caliber variant with an interesting modification for central seconds instead of the standard UWD 33.1 small seconds used by other clients. They disguised it like an optical illusion since both versions seem identical at first glance. In the Sinn (movement view at 7:36 ), the center wheel is mounted under its own true bridge and the third wheel floats _above_ it (rim partially overlapping the center wheel jewel). In the Hektor, the rim of the third wheel is instead tucked _underneath_ a new cock/jewel assembly that is profiled to the same outline as the original centerwheel bridge without increasing movement height, looking totally integral and almost indistinguishable from the standard 33.1. This is a fairly modern style of architecture, allowing the option to drive the seconds hand cannon with the third wheel like the Hektor, or maintain it on the fourth wheel pinion as traditional like the Sinn, without any changes to the main geartrain geometry. Older methods used extra gears/plates and space/height to transmit from small to center, or contorted the geartrain to move the actual fourth wheel to center (and the center wheel became "off-centered"). I love how thoughtfully the UWD 33.x was designed to offer both styles efficiently for the brands and also aesthetically for the nerds. Definitely not an afterthought mod, the original geartrain was formatted from the ground up to allow this seamless flexibility.
That classique is beautiful, probably my second pick from Breguet after the tradition pieces (especially that 7097 with the retrograde seconds!). As for the sinn, while the UWD movement is spectacular, I find it an odd aesthetic fit for that particular watch -- especially against the gold, whereas on the Hektor, the 33.2 is practically meant for it in every regard. As far as implementations outside L&H, I do like what they did with the 33.1 on the Josh Shapiro Infinity series!
@@watchartsci oh yeah.. I’m not the biggest fan either.. but something I must acquiesce as I consider buying it, since I like everything else about it. Otherwise I play the saving (and waiting game) until the likes of Marco Lang or Kari Voutilainen drop something new that makes financial sense for me to buy (or any more than I’ve convinced myself of). Take care.
The retrograde second hand for HW can indicate 15sec and 45sec correctly?? the second hand will hit 15 and 45 at the same time, and we dont know whether it is 15 or 45 i guesss. Thanks Bill for the great reviews and sharing always!!!
There's something fishy about those Sinn watches on Chrono24. The watches were made in 2016-2017, limited edition of 55 each, rose gold and white gold. There are 2 currently for sale on Chrono24 claiming they were produced in 2022 and 2024
Often the sellers get things wrong. Like, if you search for a perpetual calendar, you get all sorts of triple calendars and date + moon phase complications.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Bill this is excellent . Really appreciate it !!!
My Pleasure Tim! Take care, Bill
Thank you Bill for your colossal input. It is truly amazing and helpful
You're welcome, DoItl! Take care, Bill
Thanks for the great research invested to produce this video!
Glad you liked it, Pierred! Take care, Bill
Nice episode and content, Bill- great job!
Glad you liked it, 911! Take care, Bill
Great video! Lots of information to unpack and take in.
Lots to take in makes our hobby fun, Smoko! Take care, Bill
Very informative video as usual. If all people are even half as good a reseacher as you Bill we will be in a better world. 😊
Hey Doc, thanks! I'm just having fun reading about watches! Take care, Bill
I would add my latest purchase, the discontinued Zenith Captain Winsor Annual Calendar. The annual calendar module on top of the El Primero movement was designed by the master of calendar watchmaking, Ludwig Oechslin. His implementation of the annual calendar is ingeniously simple to use and it’s famous for requiring very few additional parts and for being fully adjustable through the crown. Some of these watches can be found for less than a Tudor Black Bay.
That is a good one Remus. It's really a watch of good value, too. Take care, Bill
HW is definitely on of the brands I need to add to my collection. That Sinn is awesome, definitely high horology.
The DR Retrograde is on my list as well. Thanks Bill.
I have a DR Retrograde, and it is a cool watch... just a little perspective adjustment each time I wear it, Abdul. (I may have to sell it if I get another DR!) Take care, Bill
There are still some super deals on the HW Premiere Exocenters, Abdul, with retrograde movements by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht. Take care, Bill
Excellent video, as always! The UWD 33.1 was also used by the Munich based jeweller Leinfelder in it's limited Elysium models, I think you probably mentioned this in a former video? MSRP has been from € 9.500.- (steel) to 21.500.- (precious metals). Unfortunately I missed the steel version ...
Yes Jöge, Leinfelder did have some watches with UWD 33.1-are they still in business? I had thought of getting one, but (no intended offense) but they were some of the ugliest designs I've seen. Take care, Bill
@watchartsci Hi Bill, you are right: also for us, who find, the movement is the most important part of a watch, couldn't ignore the "faces" of the steel versions, trying to repeat the petticoat design of the bridges as an element on the dial, for whatever reason. The models in precious metal were designed "old school" and looked way better. As far as I can see, Leinfelder doesn't have this watches in their portfolio any more. Greetings, Jörg
Thanks for the information
Hey Waffler, glad you liked it man! Take care, Bill
14:00 is a great looking watch. But, that big 24 in the middle of the dial distracts from the rest of the dial. It's a beautiful dial but the eyes are drawn to that big 24 like a magnet.
That's what I like about Emjay. Second TZ at a glance! (I hope more don't like and the price will come down to what I can afford!! Take care, Bill
Hey Bill, I recognised the Marco Lang movement (too many hours looking at L&H) but had no idea it was also in a Sinn. I prefer the Hector dial but Sinn offers precious metal at half the price. Great value, thank you. All the best, Ed
The Hectors with center seconds have the UWD 33.2 movement I think, Ed. A mod from the original by Marco Lang. Take care, Bill
@watchartsci The L&H Hektor uses the UWD 33.2 caliber variant with an interesting modification for central seconds instead of the standard UWD 33.1 small seconds used by other clients. They disguised it like an optical illusion since both versions seem identical at first glance. In the Sinn (movement view at 7:36 ), the center wheel is mounted under its own true bridge and the third wheel floats _above_ it (rim partially overlapping the center wheel jewel). In the Hektor, the rim of the third wheel is instead tucked _underneath_ a new cock/jewel assembly that is profiled to the same outline as the original centerwheel bridge without increasing movement height, looking totally integral and almost indistinguishable from the standard 33.1.
This is a fairly modern style of architecture, allowing the option to drive the seconds hand cannon with the third wheel like the Hektor, or maintain it on the fourth wheel pinion as traditional like the Sinn, without any changes to the main geartrain geometry. Older methods used extra gears/plates and space/height to transmit from small to center, or contorted the geartrain to move the actual fourth wheel to center (and the center wheel became "off-centered").
I love how thoughtfully the UWD 33.x was designed to offer both styles efficiently for the brands and also aesthetically for the nerds. Definitely not an afterthought mod, the original geartrain was formatted from the ground up to allow this seamless flexibility.
Thanx, great insight.
My pleasure, Tomas! Take care, Bill
Great video
Hey Frank, thanks man!
Hi Bill, you influenced me to choose one of the watches on this list, and it's the Daniel Roth.
That classique is beautiful, probably my second pick from Breguet after the tradition pieces (especially that 7097 with the retrograde seconds!). As for the sinn, while the UWD movement is spectacular, I find it an odd aesthetic fit for that particular watch -- especially against the gold, whereas on the Hektor, the 33.2 is practically meant for it in every regard. As far as implementations outside L&H, I do like what they did with the 33.1 on the Josh Shapiro Infinity series!
Love the Tradition, Killer ... except ... you know what. Take care, Bill
@@watchartsci oh yeah.. I’m not the biggest fan either.. but something I must acquiesce as I consider buying it, since I like everything else about it. Otherwise I play the saving (and waiting game) until the likes of Marco Lang or Kari Voutilainen drop something new that makes financial sense for me to buy (or any more than I’ve convinced myself of). Take care.
@@killeraudiofile8094 Here's what I'm saving for... www.thewatchpages.com/watches/strehler-sirna/
@@watchartsci I’d be all over if it were available in different dial colors. The movement though, wowza!
@@killeraudiofile8094 My understanding is that Strehler will be coming out with different styles of the Sirna soon.
10:45
De Bethune is what you're looking for.
Yep, Yamayamauchiman-thanks! Take care, Bill
The retrograde second hand for HW can indicate 15sec and 45sec correctly?? the second hand will hit 15 and 45 at the same time, and we dont know whether it is 15 or 45 i guesss. Thanks Bill for the great reviews and sharing always!!!
As I read the dial, the second hand probably goes op and down.
Doesn't sound like a good timing watch Francis! Take care, Bill
Exactly right, Lex!
There's something fishy about those Sinn watches on Chrono24. The watches were made in 2016-2017, limited edition of 55 each, rose gold and white gold. There are 2 currently for sale on Chrono24 claiming they were produced in 2022 and 2024
Often the sellers get things wrong. Like, if you search for a perpetual calendar, you get all sorts of triple calendars and date + moon phase complications.
Vovas, I see a lot of mistakes like that-some sellers are clueless ... or a little bent. Take care, Bill
Again fantastic selection, Bill 👍👍👌👌😃😃
Hey Andreas! Thanks man! Take care, Bill
Denis Flageollet co-founded De Bethune with David Zanetta.
Yes, Obud...too much crowding in my head! Take care, Bill