You have way more patience than me! I would have chucked it by now. I have this riser, though I don't have the bar to make an accurate test of alignment, I do have Bieter blocks and my alignment is good. I hate to have to touch the alignment system on my Gillo GT now. This has real shaken my confidence in Gillo now. Awaiting part 3...
Jake... You're the best! I just received a gorgeous Gillo G1 riser that I have yet to setup. Your problems with the stuck limbs had me a little freaked out, but your experimentation while aligning your limbs was very valuable. Regarding the use of Loctite... With very small screws, like the grubs screws used on Gillo risers, always use Loctite 222 (aka "purple Loctite) which is intended for small screws. The more common "blue" Loctite is intended for screws over 1/4 inch, and is often too strong to allow for the easy removal of small screws.
I had a spigarelli with the same alignment system. The dove tail insert in the riser stood proud/above the edge of the riser pocket, causing the limb to balance on the smaller dovetail slot instead of the wider edge of the riser pocket. I had to sand down the dove tail slot to get it beneath the edge of the pocket. It looks like yours might be above the pocket floor as well when it shifts and turns.
Seeing this makes me nervous for the GT I ordered. But being a machinist has its perks. I've really appreciated your understanding of how things are made and put together, and look forward to your next video(s) about this riser.
@@crisvis8905 It went fine. I didn't get the limb sticking issue unless I cranked the set screws tighter than I was comfortable with (based on my own experience). What's happening is that the set screws, if you tighten them too much, collapses the dovetail around the limb pin. Gillo could have positioned where the adjustment screws contact the dovetail block better, so it didn't collapse the dovetail, but it's the same as their G1/G2/GQ, and you don't have to tighten the grub screws much for them to not loosen.
@@crisvis8905 Is this effect your limb alignment before n after shot becoz the skrew is not tighten? I'm looking to buy new riser n this GT is in my list.. But want study first.. 😅
The extent to which you kept pulling on that proverbial thread and explained what you were thinking has helped me a lot. It’s good to see and understand all this before working on my own riser 😅
Wow. I've watched a hell of a lot if archery help vids and never seen anyone go anywhere near that far beyond the call of duty. Phenomenal. So did the bit where the riser's super tight tolerances get used to smash a hole in the floor get edited out? Part 3 maybe? Can't wait 😂
I had the exact same issue. I purchased a new Gillo G2 riser and WNS limbs. The bottom limb would go in and out but, not the top. The top limb was very difficult to get in and would take 3-4 hard pulls to get out. I'm now waiting on the delivery of some Gillo GTL 88 limbs , which are over twice the cost of the WNS limbs. Live and learn... Peace and Joy to you All, Paul
This is great information! Thanks. I just received a GX2 Riser with the same system, This video will be invaluable in setting it up and maintaining it.
I can see it got to your nerve. Kudos for patience. I'm lucky enough to have only minor problem with top limb and I like the fact that limbs do not move at all locked and unstringed unlike on other risers (as you have shown us on your past video). I do not mind to put little more effort to get my top limb out.
Awesome video Jake. I like that you say it as it is and pin point these issues. I did notice the alignment block pitching as you were just barely snugging the grub screws. Which like you say might be enough to snag on to the limb. But as a Toolmaker and as machining is my game, I thought what might be happening is that... as we know metals are flexible. I noticed that the grub screws are right opposite the dove tail button and with not a lot of material between them. So if the fitting tolerance is quite fine and on a material like aluminium. If a small amount of pressure was added to the sides it would flex the sides of the block in and close up that small tolerance easily. Perhaps with the that design of alignment block they should consider a different tolerance, or a tougher material for the blocks and possibly have a step on it that goes under the grub screws to stop the pitching / lifting issue. Keep up the good work Jake. I am enjoying your Barebow videos.
The problem is that overtighting locking screw compresses the aligning plate, which in turn locks limbs in the pockets. So either use 'loctite' - as it's recommended in the manual - so you won't have to overtighten them (and one has to else those screw just fall out of the riser), or figure out a position for the inner pair of screws where overtighting outer pair won't lead to limb lock.
I think they are great risers, and I think the limb alignment system can work if done EXACTLY as described but I have my doubt in the ability to maintain alignment without being able to tighten the screws as they should be to my standard.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery I think the idea is great, but the alignment shouldn't be a fight. Maybe they're going to fix it for next year's version. I've stayed away from other risers that make lateral adjustment too difficult. I would have thrown that thing in the trash. I don't know how you put up with it for multiple videos.
Actually I didn't want to touch the alignment after watching this video, but today I felt like I have the courage. It's okay. Actually you can back up the set screws (just a tiny little bit) after tightening the M6 and everything will be good. Very few barebow archers will have a stabilizer for reference, though. I agree the limb bolts don't provide enough reference and the Beiter blocks don't make a big difference either. Still you don't know which limb to adjust. What you can do though is to take off the grip and firmly hold an arrow on both sides of the riser. This will tell you whether your string runs through the center of the bow and thereby which limb you need to move. Don't use a bow square unless you are sure it's really straight. Don't ask how I know...
You basically just touch them on both sides. Just enough to touch. Not tighten. I know the manual said to do so but on the majority of manufactures I've shot that used that dovetail style all just need to just touch.
What i found to be a working procedure was: after aligning the limbs with the adjustment screws just touching, get the limbs out and tighten the 6mm screw. Then string it again, check if all is still aligned and snug the adjustment screws just a little, followed by the locking screws. It´s a bit of a palaver to be honest. Another Part that is worth checking is if the Limb cutout fits around the tiller bolts. that's another part with very tight and sometimes off tolerances. I´ve had limbs where the cutout is slightly smaller than the diameter of the Bolts and Limbs that were thicker than the available space between the top and bottom of the bolts.
Hay Jake, I had the same problem with some limbs but not others on my 27" G1. I ended up buying a extra set of the aluminum dovetail inserts. I machined a very small amount from the face that contacts the dovetail on the limb. I was thinking the problem was inconsistent machining on the limb dovetails as unlikely as that seems. I got it to work fine but i'm not really convinced that was the real problem. Good hunting, looking forward to you finding the real solution!
Literally just one inch below that section in the Gilo Manual and highlighted in yellow. Warning! Tightening too much the side grub screws may bring to difficulty in inserting and removing the limbs from the dovetails in the pockets. And why would you want to leave the centre bolt a 1/4 turn loose; that is not suggested in the manual. This is only suggested to loosened it to adjust the limb. It would obviously then need to be tightened back up to the factory setting before the limb is put back in.
Oh I did every option, 6mm screw tight or loose, grub screws tight or just touching. If you watch the video in its entirety you can see how I tried every single option to no avail.
Really good review. I‘m fairly new to archery, but i‘m very fascinated. I have a kinetic barebow and a hunting bow allready. I am fascinated by barebow shooting since day one. Now my local club is more into trad/3D shooting (almost exclusively), so i‘d be the only barebow shooter. I‘m from switzerland and barebow is not common at all. So i wanted to „invest“ in a really good bow for long term. I was thinking about to buy the exact same gillo gt in 27 inches. On the other hand i thought maybe i can get more 3D/instinctive shooting progress since it‘s hard to find experienced barebow shooters. Then there was the hoyt satori... it‘s what confused me all the time. What path do i go? I decided to buy the hoyt satori 19 inch riser finally. I can‘t afford both risers. Through your review i‘m glad i went for the satori. I‘m way too unexperienced to deal with the „issues“ that the gillo would give me. It would just be too complicated for me. I always had some doubts about the limb shoe system, just because there‘s more parts that beed adjustment. The satori is just right for me and i‘m glad about that. But i‘m still looking forward to see mire testing and review on the gilo gt. I‘m just relieved i‘ve made my decision like i did at the moment...
Very frustrating. Customer service is very good and they answer everything you ask them. I asked for the detentions of the hub and they gave it to me. Unfortunately it didn't solve the problem. Uukha also answered very quickly and said that the finish could be uneven and I could safely sand it smooth. It helped a little but I didn't take much off. Top rate customer service from Gillo and Uukha but didn't solve the problem. I didn't take it to the level that Jake is doing and I am grateful for his effort. I wish Jake had tried different limbs(as many as he has) just to see if one worked and one didn't.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery I thought you might have. Thanks for doing this. Learning can be very frustrating but totally satisfying when the problem is solved. Thank you for the great content.
I'm not so sure about the tight tolerances, in my opinion the block should not shift up on one side, or at all, when tightened. With the block shifting up it puts a bind on the limb so I don't see where another limb, at least one with the same design, would be any different. I think it's in the block, block pocket, or the alignment of the adjusting screws in relation to the block being the issue. I could be wrong but just my opinion.
I use GT27+velos , and dont have any problem with limbs stuck... But before it i use GT27+hoytGP840 and the limbs is get stuck 🤣, maybe you need to try compare it with another limbs
That alignment system just looks like too much of a pain in the ass to deal with unless your used to using it a lot. I wouldn't be confident I could get the limbs aligned and removable at the same time.
I dont think there's issues there with the product. The point here is just don not loosen the M6 screw that much (!). It loosens the whole Block, to wobble around while adjusting limb cant. The Block will cant even with the M6 screew barely loose or even slightly snug, and no issue will appear.
I was greatly interested in acquiring a GT riser ... but .... the apparent hassles with ILF limb fitment makes Zero Sense because at the least the Gillo GT defeats the entire purpose of the ILF limb system across different manufacturers. Disappointing.
You have an American expectation of tight. If Kalashnikov gave you a box of AK-47 parts, you would put it together to tight and it would never fire! You aren't using the adjustment bolts to "squeeze" the dovetail block in place. The adjustment grubs only need to take up the space that the dovetail block would want to occupy were it to move. If there were no locking screw, you would need to use the torque you apply to the grub screw to hold everything in place, but that's not how it works. You use the locking grubs to hold the adjustment grubs. Again, they just need to take up the space the adjustment grubs would try to move into. What holds the locking grubs if you don't apply torque? Blue loc-tite. As recommended by Gillo. Also I agree with whom ever suggested the dovetail block seems to sit too proud of the pocket. Would be easy enough to get it right with some wet sandpaper and a reference plate, but that's a job for the actual owner.
So you're comfortable with taking sandpaper to a brand new $700 product? I think it should be good from the factory. Tight is one thing, but preventing it from vibrating loose is another issue in itself. Lock tight is great, but needs proper torque to maintain position without the lock tight and then the lock tight should be insurance at best.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery Comfortable, yes. Happy, no. I don't think having to do any finishing on any precision made product should ever be necessary. I'm not a Gillo fan boy defending their product. I would be really unhappy to go through what you're experiencing. I still stand by my suggestion for the adjustment and lock grubs. Loc-tite doesn't need torque to work. It's an anaerobic adhesive. It just needs to be in the absence of oxygen to set. As an American, I always feel better about tight nuts and bolts. They feel right to me. But I just don't think it's how those particular fixings were designed to operate.
I don't use the long part of the allan wrench. Only the small parts. The only problem I'm experiencing is the sound of my bow. A small solution to this problem if the tightening screws could be placing small center holes at both sides of the plate.
For the price of those limbs/ that riser, there shouldn't be any "manufacturing issue(s)". . . And isn't anodizing your aluminium limb adjuster on a 650$ riser to look like brass kind of like putting a Honda emblem on a Ferrari?
Oh dear. This is definitely an issue with the riser. I shoot a Spigarelli Revolution, which uses the exact same adjustment plates and system, but in terms of adjustability no issues with either of their risers. I'm not impressed with the Gillo riser, and given the comments, you aren't alone. Some really good ideas, but badly executed, it's as if it's been made by Landrover...
If I had ordered that riser and found out this nightmare of limb alignment, I'd just return it and demand a full refund. This is an unusable product. I think their machining tolerance is in the wrong direction. The ALU pocket needs to be sanded down on the surface touching the limb so it does not stick out that much.
I have a gt25 ilf and I can reset my bow 20 times without having this problem 🙂 I had 2 sets of uukha limbs, and I can switch them without any problem, they're both straight in op and closed stance. So...
Patients of a saint.
The saint was a little unsaintly at the end.
Jake is anally technical and brilliant with the bow. I'm glad he is working this out.
You have way more patience than me! I would have chucked it by now. I have this riser, though I don't have the bar to make an accurate test of alignment, I do have Bieter blocks and my alignment is good. I hate to have to touch the alignment system on my Gillo GT now. This has real shaken my confidence in Gillo now.
Awaiting part 3...
I admire your tenacity.
By now, it I would have returned the riser and cracked a bottle.
I’ll stay with W&W
Jake... You're the best! I just received a gorgeous Gillo G1 riser that I have yet to setup. Your problems with the stuck limbs had me a little freaked out, but your experimentation while aligning your limbs was very valuable. Regarding the use of Loctite... With very small screws, like the grubs screws used on Gillo risers, always use Loctite 222 (aka "purple Loctite) which is intended for small screws. The more common "blue" Loctite is intended for screws over 1/4 inch, and is often too strong to allow for the easy removal of small screws.
This looks to be a nightmare, great to have small tolerance margins, but it has to be functional.
Keep at it Jake stay cool 😎
I wonder if Gillo is putting together a video on how to correctly adjust their limb pockets as a result of these issues and Jakes highlighting them.
I was thinking seriously about buying this riser, but watching you deal with these problems gave me a headache! I think I'll pass
I had a spigarelli with the same alignment system. The dove tail insert in the riser stood proud/above the edge of the riser pocket, causing the limb to balance on the smaller dovetail slot instead of the wider edge of the riser pocket. I had to sand down the dove tail slot to get it beneath the edge of the pocket. It looks like yours might be above the pocket floor as well when it shifts and turns.
Seeing this makes me nervous for the GT I ordered. But being a machinist has its perks. I've really appreciated your understanding of how things are made and put together, and look forward to your next video(s) about this riser.
@@crisvis8905 It went fine. I didn't get the limb sticking issue unless I cranked the set screws tighter than I was comfortable with (based on my own experience).
What's happening is that the set screws, if you tighten them too much, collapses the dovetail around the limb pin.
Gillo could have positioned where the adjustment screws contact the dovetail block better, so it didn't collapse the dovetail, but it's the same as their G1/G2/GQ, and you don't have to tighten the grub screws much for them to not loosen.
@@crisvis8905 Do u have same issue with ur new GT? How do u feel shoot with GT?
@@crisvis8905 Do u have same issue with ur new GT? How do u feel shoot with GT?
@@crisvis8905 Is this effect your limb alignment before n after shot becoz the skrew is not tighten? I'm looking to buy new riser n this GT is in my list.. But want study first.. 😅
The extent to which you kept pulling on that proverbial thread and explained what you were thinking has helped me a lot. It’s good to see and understand all this before working on my own riser 😅
You've difinetly the patience of a saint Jake great video
Wow. I've watched a hell of a lot if archery help vids and never seen anyone go anywhere near that far beyond the call of duty. Phenomenal. So did the bit where the riser's super tight tolerances get used to smash a hole in the floor get edited out? Part 3 maybe? Can't wait 😂
Great review Jake - love the music at the end, added a slightly comical touch and covered the profanities no doubt ; )
Such a thorough review :thumbsup:
I had the exact same issue. I purchased a new Gillo G2 riser and WNS limbs. The bottom limb would go in and out but, not the top. The top limb was very difficult to get in and would take 3-4 hard pulls to get out. I'm now waiting on the delivery of some Gillo GTL 88 limbs , which are over twice the cost of the WNS limbs. Live and learn...
Peace and Joy to you All,
Paul
This is great information! Thanks. I just received a GX2 Riser with the same system, This video will be invaluable in setting it up and maintaining it.
This accurately depicts my frustration with their risers
I have had this same problem
The first time, i had this as well. Then I redid the alignment and didnt have this at all. And I moved my alignment a few times.
Gillo should provide torque values to help ensure no one rounds heads or strip threads. Plus this keeps everything in spec.
I can see it got to your nerve. Kudos for patience. I'm lucky enough to have only minor problem with top limb and I like the fact that limbs do not move at all locked and unstringed unlike on other risers (as you have shown us on your past video). I do not mind to put little more effort to get my top limb out.
Awesome video Jake. I like that you say it as it is and pin point these issues. I did notice the alignment block pitching as you were just barely snugging the grub screws. Which like you say might be enough to snag on to the limb. But as a Toolmaker and as machining is my game, I thought what might be happening is that... as we know metals are flexible. I noticed that the grub screws are right opposite the dove tail button and with not a lot of material between them. So if the fitting tolerance is quite fine and on a material like aluminium. If a small amount of pressure was added to the sides it would flex the sides of the block in and close up that small tolerance easily. Perhaps with the that design of alignment block they should consider a different tolerance, or a tougher material for the blocks and possibly have a step on it that goes under the grub screws to stop the pitching / lifting issue.
Keep up the good work Jake. I am enjoying your Barebow videos.
It’s a super honest review
The problem is that overtighting locking screw compresses the aligning plate, which in turn locks limbs in the pockets. So either use 'loctite' - as it's recommended in the manual - so you won't have to overtighten them (and one has to else those screw just fall out of the riser), or figure out a position for the inner pair of screws where overtighting outer pair won't lead to limb lock.
really nice review!
I could cry for you Jake
Think of it as a fine Italian sports car! Beautiful, fast, superb handling... just needs some extra, ummm, attention.
I was very interested in the GT 19, but now thanks to the honesty in these videos I will put that money to something else.
I think they are great risers, and I think the limb alignment system can work if done EXACTLY as described but I have my doubt in the ability to maintain alignment without being able to tighten the screws as they should be to my standard.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery I think the idea is great, but the alignment shouldn't be a fight. Maybe they're going to fix it for next year's version. I've stayed away from other risers that make lateral adjustment too difficult. I would have thrown that thing in the trash. I don't know how you put up with it for multiple videos.
Actually I didn't want to touch the alignment after watching this video, but today I felt like I have the courage. It's okay. Actually you can back up the set screws (just a tiny little bit) after tightening the M6 and everything will be good.
Very few barebow archers will have a stabilizer for reference, though. I agree the limb bolts don't provide enough reference and the Beiter blocks don't make a big difference either. Still you don't know which limb to adjust. What you can do though is to take off the grip and firmly hold an arrow on both sides of the riser. This will tell you whether your string runs through the center of the bow and thereby which limb you need to move. Don't use a bow square unless you are sure it's really straight. Don't ask how I know...
You basically just touch them on both sides. Just enough to touch. Not tighten. I know the manual said to do so but on the majority of manufactures I've shot that used that dovetail style all just need to just touch.
This video and the first make me want to unload my GT that i just bought
What i found to be a working procedure was: after aligning the limbs with the adjustment screws just touching, get the limbs out and tighten the 6mm screw.
Then string it again, check if all is still aligned and snug the adjustment screws just a little, followed by the locking screws.
It´s a bit of a palaver to be honest.
Another Part that is worth checking is if the Limb cutout fits around the tiller bolts. that's another part with very tight and sometimes off tolerances.
I´ve had limbs where the cutout is slightly smaller than the diameter of the Bolts and Limbs that were thicker than the available space between the top and bottom of the bolts.
Interested to see whether it binds more or less with limb pad angle changes. Qudos to you so far.
Hay Jake, I had the same problem with some limbs but not others on my 27" G1. I ended up buying a extra set of the aluminum dovetail inserts. I machined a very small amount from the face that contacts the dovetail on the limb. I was thinking the problem was inconsistent machining on the limb dovetails as unlikely as that seems. I got it to work fine but i'm not really convinced that was the real problem. Good hunting, looking forward to you finding the real solution!
Marty Vaden yeah my G1 had the issue with locking the limb when I adjusted it. I just had to keep playing with it. I still love the bow though.
Literally just one inch below that section in the Gilo Manual and highlighted in yellow.
Warning!
Tightening too much the side
grub screws
may bring to difficulty in inserting and removing
the limbs from the dovetails in the pockets.
And why would you want to leave the centre bolt a 1/4 turn loose; that is not suggested in the manual. This is only suggested to loosened it to adjust the limb. It would obviously then need to be tightened back up to the factory setting before the limb is put back in.
Oh I did every option, 6mm screw tight or loose, grub screws tight or just touching. If you watch the video in its entirety you can see how I tried every single option to no avail.
Really good review. I‘m fairly new to archery, but i‘m very fascinated. I have a kinetic barebow and a hunting bow allready. I am fascinated by barebow shooting since day one. Now my local club is more into trad/3D shooting (almost exclusively), so i‘d be the only barebow shooter. I‘m from switzerland and barebow is not common at all. So i wanted to „invest“ in a really good bow for long term. I was thinking about to buy the exact same gillo gt in 27 inches. On the other hand i thought maybe i can get more 3D/instinctive shooting progress since it‘s hard to find experienced barebow shooters. Then there was the hoyt satori... it‘s what confused me all the time. What path do i go? I decided to buy the hoyt satori 19 inch riser finally. I can‘t afford both risers. Through your review i‘m glad i went for the satori. I‘m way too unexperienced to deal with the „issues“ that the gillo would give me. It would just be too complicated for me. I always had some doubts about the limb shoe system, just because there‘s more parts that beed adjustment. The satori is just right for me and i‘m glad about that. But i‘m still looking forward to see mire testing and review on the gilo gt. I‘m just relieved i‘ve made my decision like i did at the moment...
Very frustrating. Customer service is very good and they answer everything you ask them. I asked for the detentions of the hub and they gave it to me. Unfortunately it didn't solve the problem.
Uukha also answered very quickly and said that the finish could be uneven and I could safely sand it smooth. It helped a little but I didn't take much off.
Top rate customer service from Gillo and Uukha but didn't solve the problem. I didn't take it to the level that Jake is doing and I am grateful for his effort.
I wish Jake had tried different limbs(as many as he has) just to see if one worked and one didn't.
I did, I tried every pair of ILF limbs I have. 5 sets... all the same issue
@@JakeKaminskiArchery I thought you might have. Thanks for doing this. Learning can be very frustrating but totally satisfying when the problem is solved.
Thank you for the great content.
I'm not so sure about the tight tolerances, in my opinion the block should not shift up on one side, or at all, when tightened. With the block shifting up it puts a bind on the limb so I don't see where another limb, at least one with the same design, would be any different. I think it's in the block, block pocket, or the alignment of the adjusting screws in relation to the block being the issue. I could be wrong but just my opinion.
Maybe the thread`s have a little to much gap in the tolerance?
I use GT27+velos , and dont have any problem with limbs stuck... But before it i use GT27+hoytGP840 and the limbs is get stuck 🤣, maybe you need to try compare it with another limbs
Have you had to play with the adjustment system on this riser or are you using it in stock setup?
Yes i play it and get it stuck just with GP840..... but not with velos
I think that's luck more then anything. I could get lucky but didn't most of the time haha
@@JakeKaminskiArchery My thinking exactly.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery i have same experience (limbs stuck) with the G1 and spiga DMS which exactly same Alignment system with GT 🤣🤣🤣
That alignment system just looks like too much of a pain in the ass to deal with unless your used to using it a lot. I wouldn't be confident I could get the limbs aligned and removable at the same time.
I dont think there's issues there with the product. The point here is just don not loosen the M6 screw that much (!). It loosens the whole Block, to wobble around while adjusting limb cant. The Block will cant even with the M6 screew barely loose or even slightly snug, and no issue will appear.
I tried it with a tight M6 screw and still had issues.
Oh man. Did you ever try touching the inners, TIGHTENING the M6, then tightening the inners and last tightening the outers?
31:46 You can really see the frustration
I was greatly interested in acquiring a GT riser ... but .... the apparent hassles with ILF limb fitment makes Zero Sense because at the least the Gillo GT defeats the entire purpose of the ILF limb system across different manufacturers. Disappointing.
You have an American expectation of tight. If Kalashnikov gave you a box of AK-47 parts, you would put it together to tight and it would never fire! You aren't using the adjustment bolts to "squeeze" the dovetail block in place. The adjustment grubs only need to take up the space that the dovetail block would want to occupy were it to move. If there were no locking screw, you would need to use the torque you apply to the grub screw to hold everything in place, but that's not how it works. You use the locking grubs to hold the adjustment grubs. Again, they just need to take up the space the adjustment grubs would try to move into. What holds the locking grubs if you don't apply torque? Blue loc-tite. As recommended by Gillo.
Also I agree with whom ever suggested the dovetail block seems to sit too proud of the pocket. Would be easy enough to get it right with some wet sandpaper and a reference plate, but that's a job for the actual owner.
So you're comfortable with taking sandpaper to a brand new $700 product? I think it should be good from the factory. Tight is one thing, but preventing it from vibrating loose is another issue in itself. Lock tight is great, but needs proper torque to maintain position without the lock tight and then the lock tight should be insurance at best.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery Comfortable, yes. Happy, no. I don't think having to do any finishing on any precision made product should ever be necessary. I'm not a Gillo fan boy defending their product. I would be really unhappy to go through what you're experiencing.
I still stand by my suggestion for the adjustment and lock grubs. Loc-tite doesn't need torque to work. It's an anaerobic adhesive. It just needs to be in the absence of oxygen to set.
As an American, I always feel better about tight nuts and bolts. They feel right to me. But I just don't think it's how those particular fixings were designed to operate.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery Also I really enjoy your channel and I'm really pleased for the archery community at large that you're adding your voice.
I don't use the long part of the allan wrench. Only the small parts. The only problem I'm experiencing is the sound of my bow. A small solution to this problem if the tightening screws could be placing small center holes at both sides of the plate.
Well i can scratch this bow off my list
For the price of those limbs/ that riser, there shouldn't be any "manufacturing issue(s)". . .
And isn't anodizing your aluminium limb adjuster on a 650$ riser to look like brass kind of like putting a Honda emblem on a Ferrari?
This is crazy 🤣
Oh dear. This is definitely an issue with the riser. I shoot a Spigarelli Revolution, which uses the exact same adjustment plates and system, but in terms of adjustability no issues with either of their risers. I'm not impressed with the Gillo riser, and given the comments, you aren't alone.
Some really good ideas, but badly executed, it's as if it's been made by Landrover...
If I had ordered that riser and found out this nightmare of limb alignment, I'd just return it and demand a full refund. This is an unusable product. I think their machining tolerance is in the wrong direction. The ALU pocket needs to be sanded down on the surface touching the limb so it does not stick out that much.
I have a gt25 ilf and I can reset my bow 20 times without having this problem 🙂 I had 2 sets of uukha limbs, and I can switch them without any problem, they're both straight in op and closed stance. So...
"....then at least I'll be able to shoot this thing...." yep, "thing" is about right. I'd send that hunk of expensive crap back.