Hi. I have a 300Tdi Land Rover Defender and has been mixing oil in coolant box. I replaced head cylinder and gasket and checked the block for crack (it didn’t have any). Some have advised it could be a cooling system. When I watched this video I felt I should reach out for your help sir. Thanks.
Need to ask you about the the bleed pipe. Does it make any difference which pipe goes where? Of course the longest goes to the thermostat housing, but I have doubts about other two. Seen many pics with different combinations and still not sure how the valve (the tee or y piecie) works here. Thanks for the answer!
Red/Green/Blue (97TDI 300 with allisport rad and exp tank) Which should i be using (many have advised red) but what exactly am i trying to avoid with the red on the older TDI?
I know what you have demonstrated isthe proper way, and this is the way I always do it but I have been known in the past to just fill the header tank to the top, massaged the pipes, fill to the top etc etc, then put the cap back on with the header filled right to the top. A run up the road and back gets the water where it should be and any surplus comes out the cap and the system bleeds. What if any, are the problems with doing it this way? Thanks for your time with the vids mate. More than helpful on many occasions.
Yes I do that as well to see if the fluid is in the hose but also listen to see if the jiggle pin in the thermostat is working but on other engines or even the ti engines.. That is the small air bleed which take much longer to let fluid through. With the bleed screw open it is very quick. Some vehicles will not let you bleed out like the 300tdi .
hi. very helpfull video. i have a 1996 300tdi discovery with red antifreeze in it. should i put blue in it? if so can you recomend an antifreeze or is all blue antifreeze the same. thanks in advance.
Red or the OAT stuff has different compounds in it that are claimed to attack the metals in the cooling system. It should have the blue anti -freeze /corrosion inhibitor in it. Paddocks do a Millers Blue, reputable automotive fluids company. I'd personally keep with what is recommended by Land Rover. OAT Anti-freeze is for later vehicles with aluminium radiators like the Freelander / Td5 etc. I know some on forums may say it is okay to use red where blue should be but I am not sure TBH.
so to fill cooling system. beware I got a disco. so undo expansion tank and lift. take thermostat and radiator plug out. fill in expansion tank till come out of raidiator. then fill from thermostat housing till that full. then squeeze hose and work through so its both sides of thermostat? and for heater squeeze hoses as there a little higher?
I know. It is an internal fault since it is mains powered and battery i can't split it to get to the batt. You must have good ears. I got so used to it : forgot it was there TBH.
it looks that you have connected the bleed valve the wrong way : ruclips.net/video/KKIta2EUxJw/видео.htmlm46s can you verify the header tank and radiator hoses connected the right way.
I love your vidoes, however on this occasion i was dissapointed you actually didn't show the drain bung removal & Exactly what tool you used???? As is common the Boffins at L.R. did their dim-witted moron best to put that bung in a motherf@ukker spot. Everything is in the way of attaching & turning any tools normaly found in a home tool kit on this 25 yrs old bung to crack it loose without stripping the bolt head. At this point manifold removal appears to be my only option. Ant tip would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for Matt in Australia.
My local garage fitted a thermostat bung that is made of Brass. I'm not sure where it came from but it seems a good idea.
at 3:46 in this video, I believe you install the bleed valve hose (that contains the pump ejector - plastic ball thing) hose on incorrectly.
Hi. I have a 300Tdi Land Rover Defender and has been mixing oil in coolant box. I replaced head cylinder and gasket and checked the block for crack (it didn’t have any). Some have advised it could be a cooling system. When I watched this video I felt I should reach out for your help sir. Thanks.
Need to ask you about the the bleed pipe. Does it make any difference which pipe goes where? Of course the longest goes to the thermostat housing, but I have doubts about other two. Seen many pics with different combinations and still not sure how the valve (the tee or y piecie) works here. Thanks for the answer!
so how do you bleed the system, airlocks etc?
Dobry film pozdrawiam
Red/Green/Blue (97TDI 300 with allisport rad and exp tank) Which should i be using (many have advised red) but what exactly am i trying to avoid with the red on the older TDI?
soooo say our plastic bung plug adjacent to the thermostat housing broke and the cap is off but the threads are inside?
All your videos are so helpful for a landrover owner, but will you ever do a video on the poxy vacuum pump on the 300tdi sick of changing mine now
yeah probably get around to that soon.
any advice on thermostat use for warm climates, located in jamaica
Fantastically helpful videos as usual thank you very much.
I know what you have demonstrated isthe proper way, and this is the way I always do it but I have been known in the past to just fill the header tank to the top, massaged the pipes, fill to the top etc etc, then put the cap back on with the header filled right to the top. A run up the road and back gets the water where it should be and any surplus comes out the cap and the system bleeds. What if any, are the problems with doing it this way?
Thanks for your time with the vids mate. More than helpful on many occasions.
Yes I do that as well to see if the fluid is in the hose but also listen to see if the jiggle pin in the thermostat is working but on other engines or even the ti engines.. That is the small air bleed which take much longer to let fluid through. With the bleed screw open it is very quick. Some vehicles will not let you bleed out like the 300tdi .
hi. very helpfull video. i have a 1996 300tdi discovery with red antifreeze in it. should i put blue in it? if so can you recomend an antifreeze or is all blue antifreeze the same. thanks in advance.
Red or the OAT stuff has different compounds in it that are claimed to attack the metals in the cooling system. It should have the blue anti -freeze /corrosion inhibitor in it. Paddocks do a Millers Blue, reputable automotive fluids company. I'd personally keep with what is recommended by Land Rover. OAT Anti-freeze is for later vehicles with aluminium radiators like the Freelander / Td5 etc. I know some on forums may say it is okay to use red where blue should be but I am not sure TBH.
Thats great, thanks for your help and speedy reply. Cheers.
so to fill cooling system. beware I got a disco. so undo expansion tank and lift.
take thermostat and radiator plug out. fill in expansion tank till come out of raidiator. then fill from thermostat housing till that full. then squeeze hose and work through so its both sides of thermostat?
and for heater squeeze hoses as there a little higher?
disco is the same deal.
The smoke detector chirp is back! 6:32 (and a little earlier, didn't catch the time). Time for new battery mate!
I know. It is an internal fault since it is mains powered and battery i can't split it to get to the batt. You must have good ears. I got so used to it : forgot it was there TBH.
whats the name of the antifreeze? thanks
try this one
www.paddockspares.com/brands/millers-oils/anti-freeze.html
Thank you
hello,you could talk about the interior heating system that says this ?
+Marco Almeida Yes I am overhauling and upgrading one at the moment. will be on You Tube soon.
Hi , can you do it for LR3 V8 4.4L ? Thank you
great quality information
Good
it looks that you have connected the bleed valve the wrong way :
ruclips.net/video/KKIta2EUxJw/видео.htmlm46s
can you verify the header tank and radiator hoses connected the right way.
Nice job
thanks.
I love your vidoes, however on this occasion i was dissapointed you actually didn't show the drain bung removal & Exactly what tool you used???? As is common the Boffins at L.R. did their dim-witted moron best to put that bung in a motherf@ukker spot. Everything is in the way of attaching & turning any tools normaly found in a home tool kit on this 25 yrs old bung to crack it loose without stripping the bolt head. At this point manifold removal appears to be my only option. Ant tip would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for Matt in Australia.
you eve get a reply? Make sure you smear ANTI-SEIZE threads when re-fitting
b