I tried using a zenithal for the first time last week, and I'm not even sure I did it right. But when I finished up and put it next next to another model from the same unit the difference was huge. The main color was white, and the whites were so much brighter and the recesses were so much darker and more dramatic.
That is because human eye really likes contrast which zenithal definitely gives you. IF you are able to achieve the same level of contrast your painted model will look super pleasing as well.
I zenithal all my models, but as I don't have an airbrush, I just do it with rattle cans. You just need to be a bit careful on how much you spray, but it’s pretty quick and easy to do.
Always put a drop of thinner into your airbrush first, it fills the nozzle feed tube and stop the un-thinned paint from potentially clogging the brush before you stir it.
For me it prevents it from drying a little before you add thinner it doesn't stop in the way you think its denser and immediately sinks but it does help a little
Favorite way I've seen Zenithal done is a gray zenithal over black primer, and then drybrushing white on the highlights yourself. Of course, it really all depends on what you are trying to do with the model in the end. I've also seen a tan zenithal over brown primer for a Sepia look for example. Depending on the colors you're working with priming with different color variants can add in flair as well.
I just got into mini painting to have something to throw on the table during D&D games for fun, even though we rarely use them or even tokens while battling. I've only just dipped into painting tip youtubers and love Jay's videos so much because it seems like a really excited acquaintance from my LGS is explaining everything so friendly and helpful! I just tried out a zenithal for the first time even though I only have starter acrylics. Seeing the highlighted and dark areas even if you don't have the transluscent paints, as he said is sooooo helpful! Cans of rustoleum are 5 dollars, worth it! It also helped me bring some translucent blue ghosts from the cryptozpic ghostbusters boardgame to life, even if they were just practice, they turned out great with Jay's helpful tips!
I love how you title your videos in a negative way to get the clicks… but your personality and videos are actually so POSITIVE. Keep it up dude your channel is amazing.
I always add some medium to my liquitex ink these days so it's not nearly as fragile. I expect any medium will work, but I've just used army painter matte medium and it really improves it.
The biggest reason for zenithal highlights for me is that i get the benefits of both black and white priming. Good and easy painting even bright colors plus no bright spots in the deep recesses of the mini.
I know it makes a huge difference, especially when using contrast paints! I just got done with a Trogg Boss using it and plague bearer flesh and it looks great IMO
@@Fresco272 I think a mid grey is best for the basecoat if using contrast paints. They won't look good over parts that are completely black (unless your model is primarily black or dark grey). If you do prime with black, it's possible to still make it work by spraying a VERY light coat of white ink from the bottom. Becuase the ink is translucent, you can turn the black to grey using a very thin coat. Just don't go too over the top with it otherwise you'll just end up with a completely white model.
Yea, using the technique with contrasts is a great way to have heavy shadows. Actually just did a boingrot bounder last night with red contrast and then did some flashgitz yellow glaze and the zenithal highlight made it really show some deep shadows. Used a black primer and a white highlight, so the contrast/glaze didn’t hardly show on the belly. Can’t say I’d use the technique on everything, but it is a cool technique for squigs!
For me it helps a lot with seeing the details while painting and adds that extra bit of depth without as much work on my part. It also helps, I think, with practicing thin layers. Opaque paints will still let the zenithal show through if you thin it right
Something I learned from Chris Spotts (the Spotted Painter), is to hit the dried zenithal with a thin layer of AK Interactive Ultra Matte varnish (thru the airbrush), which not only protects the fragile ink, but also allows you to get to the main painting portion much quicker.
I usually put a tiny amount of AK's Ultra Matte varnish into my white ink / airbrush thinner mixture. Even quicker and adds that extra bit of durability to the zenithal layer from the get to.
I'd honestly go with Pledge (Revive it, Floor Gloss) myself (much cheaper per volume). Dries superfast (less than 10) and really hard (it protects your floor from shoes and boots). It's a great working coat (not that high of gloss for a topcoat) that can help inks and contrasts flow a bit better as well as brighten your colors.
Dana Howl introduced me to z priming and it's the best. Also z priming over a colored primer - did a green / white z primed demogorgon the other day that came out amazing
Zenithal helps me map out the mini. I paint a lot of middle Earth minis that are 28mm true scale and are often old metal or old plastic sculpts, so the detail isn’t always amazing. With a zenithal you easily pick out the details even if they are small or badly cast. A black prime usually leads to details being missed or confused for other parts until you’ve put down a wash and realise your error.
I've always found if nothing else zenithal highlighting helps me pick out the details better. As well as sort of tells my eye where the light vs dark parks should be.
I use just set of standard acrylic paints and I am doing it on zenithal.. Replacing blacks and shadows with darker tones first then on white going with something more vivid. Zenithal tells me exactly where tones goes. Also sometimes I allow myself to spray a bit from side angle, especially when pose is angled - sisters Repentia or Arcos would have to be so dark in whole front otherwise. It might be little less natural, but I like them more this way.
HA! I just batch primed my whole Octarius box over the weekend and they're currently still in the curing phase before I can start applying my first thin layers of paint on the models. For the Orcs I use a mix of existing contrast paints to get different shades of green skin. For the scenery I'll just be blasting all of the painted scrap with primary colors, except for the sections where they clearly built on top of an imperial structure. The white helps the yellow and red to pop, I hope.Then it's just dry brushing the black primed metals and distressing the whole thing with a few washes and stippled paint chipping. the Kreig forces are what's catching me up at the moment. I don't like any of the standard schemes I've seen, but I don't want my custom scheme to come across as cartoony. Either way, I'll be using thin coats of their primary colors for the coats and leggings. I may keep the white from the prime and add some weathering and chipping.
Zenithal is like airbrushing in general - by no means it is a one-size-fits-all solition but can make certain techniques so much easier to achieve and look so much better that it may seem like magic.
I find my milage with this varies depending on the type and opacity of the paint I'm using. I did some ork boys with a zenithal white over a dark grey and used mostly contrast paints with highlighting and it worked out great. I actually wasn't happy with zenithal white over black with this method because the contrast paints dont show well- or at all- over black. The dark grey meant I could at least see a little of the intended color so that it wasnt just pure black. Looked especially weird on the Ork's green flesh when it broke down to almost pure black.
If you do have a model that's been primed in black, you can also just spray a very thin coat of white ink from underneath to turn the black into a gray. Then apply a heavier coat of white from above to get your zenithal highlight.
I am really liking zenithal highlighting in colors other than white, too. For example, green or blue ink for green-skinned monsters, like orks or lizardmen.
I do a lazy zenithal prime with rattle cans for all my minis, it may or may not make a big difference in the end result but I simply find it more enjoyable to paint when you can easily see all the definition on the model.
When I layer a zenithal primed model the paint uppon the lighter parts will automatically be lighter than the parts I've painted over the darker parts. So if you're lazy with Highlights maybe try out zenithal?
It also doesn't hurt to snap a few pics of the model once finished with the zenithal priming to use as reference for tonal variation/volumetric shading later on in the paint job.
I do like to zenithal prime in order to pick out the details in a way that a straight up black prime can't. The way I paint most of the time, I don't need it for highlights, but if I have a better look at the actual details I can pick them out pretty well on my own, I find. Thinning the white ink is an idea I didn't have, and I will have to try that, because I do often have to deal with splattering--does thinning it help minimize that from happening?
I do it cause I'm lazy, paint like three times a year and made a contrast thinner for all my paints. It helps because the model's unpainted parts still look pretty dang good and its easier to tell who the completely unpainted models are.
A properly trained artist will always usually use an unerpainting stage , to plan and use the light values to guide the finish painting.its a great stage to use for any style of project..
ok I also have a patriot 105 and I use stynelrez because it's basically the best, but it also clogs my airbrush really badly every time. Even if i thin it. Am I just getting bad batches??? How are yall putting this stuff through the airbrush raw
I have only used this technique once or twice, and I did it without airbrushing, using drybrushing instead for some Marauder Horsemen.the horses in particular. I'd seen a Vince Ventrella video on it, and decided to try it. Once the white highlights were down, it was a matter of layering on the washes to get the final colour without the laborious shading and highlighting. Turned out pretty good. ( or good enough for me!) Still....not a technique for every model IMO.... Thanks for the video!
i use zenithal for every model, its the best technique to manifest good results with little effort. U just need glaze medium for painting the model then. its awesome.
Imo it's a good thing to complement a black primer. Even if you paint with very covering layers of base colors, it is easier to cover white with your colors, but it's smart to prime black to have it in the recesses. That being said I dislike doing a zenithal if the model is mostly metal or a lot of metal since I think metal is easier to make look great if you paint it directly over black. In those cases I might to the "zenithal" by drybrushing on some white on just the parts of the model that will not be metal.
Personally I prefer to dry brush my way up to highlights like this. If I'm using purple washes and I want to create blue highlights, priming black and then dry brushing my way up to the highlight, and then putting on the purple and apply it more thickly at the recesses.
I have the same experience, I have a Badger 105 and it seems like I can't thin this stuff enough to work. I switched over to Monument's Pro Acryl Prime and I can use them without thinner. I wonder if there was just a bad batch of the Stynylrez, if I'm not using it properly somehow, or if there was a curse put on me (and possibly you)
You can also direct the viewers attention away from mess-ups (broken 3d print? messy fix?) or potentiate the power of a source lighting if you want to add such. Also, it is crucial to advise beginners to RATHER use two layers of "too thin" paint than one layer that's too thick, since it immediately voids the purpose of a zenithal - so is letting the first layer dry, since more often than not after drying and darkening up that "too thin" layer turns out just right! ;) Have a nice day mate o/
I’m not sure if you have tried using Vallejo white primer for zenithal but saves you time so you don’t have to wait on the ink dry time! Just some food for thought!
I used to use vallejo white primer and I didn't like it, I found it would give a speckly finish and I had a ton of issues with dry paint particulate clogging in my airbrush.
Bit of a noob question but could this be achieved using rattle cans in place of airbrush? So black primer then try and do a light white from above ? Or does it have to be the white inks?
The problem is that because you have very little control over the volume and spray of a can you'll over use the white. Personally I use cand if I'm wanting to blend two colours that I'm using as a base, like green and blue or red and purple.
I assume paints like Contrast or Speedpaint, because they’re pretty translucent and rely on the color of the primer, would really show the effect of zenithal priming.
I use the zenithal thing on major character minis or dioramas to give me a guide but it doesn't make any difference to the finished article. But that might just be the way I paint.
Whenever I try to spray with ink, the ink sort of... splatters, rather than be a fine mist. The primer I use (Vallejo) works just fine, it's just the Liquitex white ink. Any ideas?
Much like airbrush priming, zenithal is a technique to use if you happen to have the right tools to go with it. A way to make it easier and faster to paint. It is the sort of end all be all status of it that is weirding me out. It saves you a lot of buildup and blending works and takes away the need to understand light from a light-source like the sun. Then again, i still prime most of my stuff with a brush and my own blend of "primer" paint, slowly moving over to AB brush-on primer because again.. it is a tool that makes things faster. So i guess i am the cave-man in this question.
Nah, you're not a cave-man here. I have to brush prime as I don't have anywhere suitable to airbrush (and no airbrush) and I can only spray outside for perhaps 3 months of a year. Brush priming a zenithal feels like it's more effort than it's worth.
Also worth mentioning that the zenithal layer doesn't have to be white ink, it can be any off white or even some colors to give you a headstart on your painting over the black primer
@@flo1fication works better over black to push the contrast (you can leave the deepest recesses black when painting) but I guess a dark grey could also work just fine
Just from my personal experience, regular acrylic paints (or primers) use pigments which are thicker and usually give some troubles to run smoothly through the airbrush, generating a speckling effect when they are not properly thinned, Inks on the other hand are dyes with near water consistency. Better flow, better overall result in this kind of stuff.
I like it but it can have the same problem of drawing in black and white and adding colour after, where the color looks less vibrant compared to using a coloured primer.
It can also lead to a "recoloured photo" sort of effect, if you don't know how to avoid that. Shadowed and highlighted areas rarely appear pure black (except for in the extreme shadows) or white in reality, but that's the effect you'll get if you just slap a glaze of a single colour over each area and call it done. It can look kind of unnatural.
It also makes details a lot clearer, making it easier to paint. Plus, thinning paints gives you access to a host of different techniques and prevents visible brushstrokes (though layering up from black is a pain, which is fixed with zenithal priming).
@@mycatistypingthis5450 that also depends too. If you want to be able to paint faster, like you said white makes bright colors easier. For me, i have enough time that I can layer up without worrying about how long it takes
It can be done with rattle cans, though you gotta be a bit more careful to not obscure the details. On 15mm or smaller I just prime black & drybrush white to reveal the details.
Painting the base color is an important part, right? You want to go thinner than normal so the white shade shows through? Or do you simply use this as a guide as to where you paint your highlights?
White primer is often problematic, so not using it is often a good thing. That said, I use it anyway because I use cheap dollar store primer that gets better results than GW or Vallejo primer. Somehow.
I've used a rattle can white primer over a rattle can black and it's been ok, better than not doing a Zenithal. It can be a nice effect of you're doing something like Orks where the mottled finish just makes them look a little dirty and textured, but it won't give you the creamy blends if you're after that.
@@dlh567 if your careful rattle cans work just fine, I do it all the time though a lot of times I use dark green primer instead of black on things like Troggs or even the new Kruleboyz
What PSI are you running? So often on YT, I see AB Zenithal (even pros) where the paint is barely atomizing as folks are spraying their models and you can see each individual drop of paint instead of a truly smooth gradient. If you are working with thicker paints or primers, don't be scared to up your pressure to get better atomization. This is why I won't rattle can anything anymore, the surface is NOT as smooth, as the propellent isn't released at constant high pressure (uneven coverage). Acrylics are WAY heavier bodied than most Automotive Urethanes and I generally need to maintain decent pressure in most cases when AB painting with those lighter paints, to get good atomization and smoother applications. Also if you're working in Contrasts, add some full white edge highlights to your zenithal to help up the underlying brightness before going to color. You'll get more contrast outta your Contrasts.
@@flo1fication Depending on how seriously you take your painting, it can make a difference, and air pressure control doesn't get mentioned enuf for AB users in the hobby space. You can paint your minis however you want to, but as a professional illustrator, I'm always aiming for the best end result, which means getting the best start possible. It's info many folks don't think about, which is why I brought it up. Invest in an AB, it's cheaper than rattle cans in the long run.
@@BjornKuma I'd like to get into airbrushing, money isn't an issue. I just have nowhere to put it at the moment. And I wasn't being cheeky, I was really lamenting my lack of airbrush lol
if i wasn't priming in metalic gunmetal i would but i think it would be pointless to do too base layers? if anyone disagrees i'm more than willing to be persuaded otherwise.
On its own, no. When using the proper tenchniques (as mentioned) it makes a world of difference. Did a Ressurectionist crew for Malifaux this was. 20 mook models, all zombified, used zenithal highlighting plus glazes. Pretty sick crew and 16 hours of work time. For Nicodem (master of the crew) I used standard painting techniques and a slighyly different color pallette. Spent about 10 hours on him. Too bad the crew didn't play as well as it looked...
if its just a reference why not just prime and shine a light from above, then take a photo or video from each angle and use that for reference. then you're not covering up your reference with your base coats
Zenithal is not for snobs, it does help and it looks hard when you're starting out with an airbrush. The community is just being the community - scary thing looks scary so let's slate it so we don't feel bad. Either that or it's a faff/effort. People are either up for learning something or they're not and to be fair it's their choice to make, but it just comes across as a bit childish when they're negative.
You can zenithal prime with rattle cans. An airbrush seems cool but I'm way to lazy to clean every time I want to switch a color, or having a noisy pump by my side, and I don't know where to use it. I'm painting in my PC / gaming room so not the best place to use an airbrush.
Don't tell anyone, but I do something similar with grey knights. Leadbelcher all over and then testors silver spray from above. Shh. Remember. Don't tell anyone.
I'm thinking in a fix, everyone should just play with zenithal highlighted models, they look much better with little work than playing with unpainted models
I tried using a zenithal for the first time last week, and I'm not even sure I did it right. But when I finished up and put it next next to another model from the same unit the difference was huge. The main color was white, and the whites were so much brighter and the recesses were so much darker and more dramatic.
Zenithal still feels like magic with how it completely changes with perspective.
I often think that Prime + Zenithal seems to look nicer than fully painted
Agreed, hell if it's a statue or stone work looks fine to me leaving it as is with maybe a little wash and highlights
Fully agree with that mate.
Might get an airbrush just to do it for scenery statues
Dark metal spray + a gold or silver z prime makes for quick and easy terrain (i.e. buildings, etc)
That is because human eye really likes contrast which zenithal definitely gives you. IF you are able to achieve the same level of contrast your painted model will look super pleasing as well.
It looks even nicer, if u use super thin colors over zenithal keeping all these nice highlights there))
so smooth, so good!
I zenithal all my models, but as I don't have an airbrush, I just do it with rattle cans. You just need to be a bit careful on how much you spray, but it’s pretty quick and easy to do.
Always put a drop of thinner into your airbrush first, it fills the nozzle feed tube and stop the un-thinned paint from potentially clogging the brush before you stir it.
For me it prevents it from drying a little before you add thinner it doesn't stop in the way you think its denser and immediately sinks but it does help a little
Great video explaining the technique and benefits in an easy to understand way
Favorite way I've seen Zenithal done is a gray zenithal over black primer, and then drybrushing white on the highlights yourself. Of course, it really all depends on what you are trying to do with the model in the end. I've also seen a tan zenithal over brown primer for a Sepia look for example. Depending on the colors you're working with priming with different color variants can add in flair as well.
I like it for how much it helps me see what details that needs to be painted
I just got into mini painting to have something to throw on the table during D&D games for fun, even though we rarely use them or even tokens while battling. I've only just dipped into painting tip youtubers and love Jay's videos so much because it seems like a really excited acquaintance from my LGS is explaining everything so friendly and helpful! I just tried out a zenithal for the first time even though I only have starter acrylics. Seeing the highlighted and dark areas even if you don't have the transluscent paints, as he said is sooooo helpful! Cans of rustoleum are 5 dollars, worth it! It also helped me bring some translucent blue ghosts from the cryptozpic ghostbusters boardgame to life, even if they were just practice, they turned out great with Jay's helpful tips!
I love how you title your videos in a negative way to get the clicks… but your personality and videos are actually so POSITIVE. Keep it up dude your channel is amazing.
You make it look easy! Good content.
Wow so thats what that is. I cant wait to try it! Thanks man 🙏
Good tip on actually thinning the white ink, I am going to give that a try next time!
I always add some medium to my liquitex ink these days so it's not nearly as fragile. I expect any medium will work, but I've just used army painter matte medium and it really improves it.
I love zenethal it works wonderfully with contrast paints and dry-brushing.
The biggest reason for zenithal highlights for me is that i get the benefits of both black and white priming. Good and easy painting even bright colors plus no bright spots in the deep recesses of the mini.
I know it makes a huge difference, especially when using contrast paints! I just got done with a Trogg Boss using it and plague bearer flesh and it looks great IMO
Do you use black base primer or gray when painting with contrast? I use gray with white zenithal but was wondering if black wouldn't be fine too.
@@Fresco272 I think a mid grey is best for the basecoat if using contrast paints. They won't look good over parts that are completely black (unless your model is primarily black or dark grey).
If you do prime with black, it's possible to still make it work by spraying a VERY light coat of white ink from the bottom. Becuase the ink is translucent, you can turn the black to grey using a very thin coat. Just don't go too over the top with it otherwise you'll just end up with a completely white model.
Yea, using the technique with contrasts is a great way to have heavy shadows.
Actually just did a boingrot bounder last night with red contrast and then did some flashgitz yellow glaze and the zenithal highlight made it really show some deep shadows. Used a black primer and a white highlight, so the contrast/glaze didn’t hardly show on the belly.
Can’t say I’d use the technique on everything, but it is a cool technique for squigs!
Prime and Zenithal and done a perfect Noir paint job hehe, serious though Zenithal and glazing are great for me.
For me it helps a lot with seeing the details while painting and adds that extra bit of depth without as much work on my part. It also helps, I think, with practicing thin layers. Opaque paints will still let the zenithal show through if you thin it right
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
Something I learned from Chris Spotts (the Spotted Painter), is to hit the dried zenithal with a thin layer of AK Interactive Ultra Matte varnish (thru the airbrush), which not only protects the fragile ink, but also allows you to get to the main painting portion much quicker.
I usually put a tiny amount of AK's Ultra Matte varnish into my white ink / airbrush thinner mixture. Even quicker and adds that extra bit of durability to the zenithal layer from the get to.
You might try adding some medium directly to the ink, that's worked for me.
Air brushing is for plebs. Models always look bad unless its only two colors. One on top and the darker on bottom.
And you use 20x the paint.
I'd honestly go with Pledge (Revive it, Floor Gloss) myself (much cheaper per volume). Dries superfast (less than 10) and really hard (it protects your floor from shoes and boots). It's a great working coat (not that high of gloss for a topcoat) that can help inks and contrasts flow a bit better as well as brighten your colors.
Dana Howl introduced me to z priming and it's the best. Also z priming over a colored primer - did a green / white z primed demogorgon the other day that came out amazing
For contrast paints it really helps a lot especially for paints that are thinner in application
I normally love your content, but this just left me with a feeling of 'what, this was it? This was your finished video?'
Black, light tan stippling/ dry brush highlights and an overcoat. Perfect for painting purple marines quickly
Zenithal helps me map out the mini. I paint a lot of middle Earth minis that are 28mm true scale and are often old metal or old plastic sculpts, so the detail isn’t always amazing. With a zenithal you easily pick out the details even if they are small or badly cast. A black prime usually leads to details being missed or confused for other parts until you’ve put down a wash and realise your error.
I find mixing in some matt varnish to the white ink (1:4) works better to stop the ink reactivating when using contrast over the zenithal.
I've always found if nothing else zenithal highlighting helps me pick out the details better. As well as sort of tells my eye where the light vs dark parks should be.
I use just set of standard acrylic paints and I am doing it on zenithal..
Replacing blacks and shadows with darker tones first then on white going with something more vivid.
Zenithal tells me exactly where tones goes.
Also sometimes I allow myself to spray a bit from side angle, especially when pose is angled - sisters Repentia or Arcos would have to be so dark in whole front otherwise.
It might be little less natural, but I like them more this way.
For airbrushing it works wonders. Dont have to worry about highlights. Top bright, bottom dark. You can then finish details and shade separately
HA! I just batch primed my whole Octarius box over the weekend and they're currently still in the curing phase before I can start applying my first thin layers of paint on the models. For the Orcs I use a mix of existing contrast paints to get different shades of green skin. For the scenery I'll just be blasting all of the painted scrap with primary colors, except for the sections where they clearly built on top of an imperial structure. The white helps the yellow and red to pop, I hope.Then it's just dry brushing the black primed metals and distressing the whole thing with a few washes and stippled paint chipping. the Kreig forces are what's catching me up at the moment. I don't like any of the standard schemes I've seen, but I don't want my custom scheme to come across as cartoony. Either way, I'll be using thin coats of their primary colors for the coats and leggings. I may keep the white from the prime and add some weathering and chipping.
IT gives a gradient map, true. IT also makes a quick and dirty contrast paint job Look good.
Finally getting around to the indomitus! Hehe
I've tried zenithal on a group of savage orcs. The difference it made to the shading was enormous.
Zenithal is like airbrushing in general - by no means it is a one-size-fits-all solition but can make certain techniques so much easier to achieve and look so much better that it may seem like magic.
I find my milage with this varies depending on the type and opacity of the paint I'm using. I did some ork boys with a zenithal white over a dark grey and used mostly contrast paints with highlighting and it worked out great. I actually wasn't happy with zenithal white over black with this method because the contrast paints dont show well- or at all- over black. The dark grey meant I could at least see a little of the intended color so that it wasnt just pure black. Looked especially weird on the Ork's green flesh when it broke down to almost pure black.
If you do have a model that's been primed in black, you can also just spray a very thin coat of white ink from underneath to turn the black into a gray. Then apply a heavier coat of white from above to get your zenithal highlight.
I am really liking zenithal highlighting in colors other than white, too. For example, green or blue ink for green-skinned monsters, like orks or lizardmen.
I do a lazy zenithal prime with rattle cans for all my minis, it may or may not make a big difference in the end result but I simply find it more enjoyable to paint when you can easily see all the definition on the model.
I'm going to try a rattle can zenithal prime on my Marvel Crisis Protocol figures today. Hope it works. It will be my first time.
I love how the thumbnail is the same miniature I'm currently painting.
I've been doing this forever and just seems like common sense/nature to me 😆 surprised more people don't do it 😆
Hi there! Thanks for the tutorial. But after doing this, how do you paint it? Paint or contrast / ink? Thank you so much
An alternative to titanium white I've seen is either white primer, pro acryls white/off white, and even Tamiya flat white.
When I layer a zenithal primed model the paint uppon the lighter parts will automatically be lighter than the parts I've painted over the darker parts.
So if you're lazy with Highlights maybe try out zenithal?
It also doesn't hurt to snap a few pics of the model once finished with the zenithal priming to use as reference for tonal variation/volumetric shading later on in the paint job.
Hey jay i got a question, so like what about imperial knights? Wont the big roof just block it all?
Also using agrax or nuln oil wash might cause the ink to run. Spray matte on top before painting might help (or before washing)
How would you do it for grey knights silver armor?
I do like to zenithal prime in order to pick out the details in a way that a straight up black prime can't. The way I paint most of the time, I don't need it for highlights, but if I have a better look at the actual details I can pick them out pretty well on my own, I find. Thinning the white ink is an idea I didn't have, and I will have to try that, because I do often have to deal with splattering--does thinning it help minimize that from happening?
I do it cause I'm lazy, paint like three times a year and made a contrast thinner for all my paints.
It helps because the model's unpainted parts still look pretty dang good and its easier to tell who the completely unpainted models are.
I get best results when I keep my paint thin and make sure the whites are bright to make highlights pop better
A properly trained artist will always usually use an unerpainting stage , to plan and use the light values to guide the finish painting.its a great stage to use for any style of project..
Any plans to do a video on zenithal with contrast-paints, inks, or glazes? Expanding on this.
I will just as soon as I think I am good at doing contrast over zenithal, I always seem to screw it up!
ok I also have a patriot 105 and I use stynelrez because it's basically the best, but it also clogs my airbrush really badly every time. Even if i thin it. Am I just getting bad batches??? How are yall putting this stuff through the airbrush raw
A single drop of Flow Improver when thinning titanium ink can also help tip dry if you're having that issue!
Wuhu, here we go =D
I have only used this technique once or twice, and I did it without airbrushing, using drybrushing instead for some Marauder Horsemen.the horses in particular. I'd seen a Vince Ventrella video on it, and decided to try it. Once the white highlights were down, it was a matter of layering on the washes to get the final colour without the laborious shading and highlighting. Turned out pretty good. ( or good enough for me!)
Still....not a technique for every model IMO....
Thanks for the video!
i use zenithal for every model, its the best technique to manifest good results with little effort. U just need glaze medium for painting the model then. its awesome.
Imo it's a good thing to complement a black primer. Even if you paint with very covering layers of base colors, it is easier to cover white with your colors, but it's smart to prime black to have it in the recesses. That being said I dislike doing a zenithal if the model is mostly metal or a lot of metal since I think metal is easier to make look great if you paint it directly over black. In those cases I might to the "zenithal" by drybrushing on some white on just the parts of the model that will not be metal.
Personally I prefer to dry brush my way up to highlights like this.
If I'm using purple washes and I want to create blue highlights, priming black and then dry brushing my way up to the highlight, and then putting on the purple and apply it more thickly at the recesses.
How do you use this primer without thinning? I use the same primer and it CONSTANTLY clogs up my airbrush, even when thinned and is a HUGE pain.
I have the same experience, I have a Badger 105 and it seems like I can't thin this stuff enough to work.
I switched over to Monument's Pro Acryl Prime and I can use them without thinner.
I wonder if there was just a bad batch of the Stynylrez, if I'm not using it properly somehow, or if there was a curse put on me (and possibly you)
You can also direct the viewers attention away from mess-ups (broken 3d print? messy fix?) or potentiate the power of a source lighting if you want to add such. Also, it is crucial to advise beginners to RATHER use two layers of "too thin" paint than one layer that's too thick, since it immediately voids the purpose of a zenithal - so is letting the first layer dry, since more often than not after drying and darkening up that "too thin" layer turns out just right! ;)
Have a nice day mate o/
I’m not sure if you have tried using Vallejo white primer for zenithal but saves you time so you don’t have to wait on the ink dry time! Just some food for thought!
I used to use vallejo white primer and I didn't like it, I found it would give a speckly finish and I had a ton of issues with dry paint particulate clogging in my airbrush.
yes
Is it possible to zenith highlight a primarily black model like black templars?
It would work if your black is thin enough (like the contrast black).
Bit of a noob question but could this be achieved using rattle cans in place of airbrush?
So black primer then try and do a light white from above ? Or does it have to be the white inks?
The problem is that because you have very little control over the volume and spray of a can you'll over use the white.
Personally I use cand if I'm wanting to blend two colours that I'm using as a base, like green and blue or red and purple.
I assume paints like Contrast or Speedpaint, because they’re pretty translucent and rely on the color of the primer, would really show the effect of zenithal priming.
I use the zenithal thing on major character minis or dioramas to give me a guide but it doesn't make any difference to the finished article. But that might just be the way I paint.
Man I thought I was the only one. I Wish I saw what everyone is seeing.
Whenever I try to spray with ink, the ink sort of... splatters, rather than be a fine mist. The primer I use (Vallejo) works just fine, it's just the Liquitex white ink. Any ideas?
that happend to me as well, I found adding thinner, like airbrush thinner or water, and turning up the psi helped alot
Ah I didn't even think of turning up the PSI. I'll try that next time!
Any reason you use white ink instead of the Stynelrez white prime for the zenithal highlight?
the ink is the best paint I have found for getting really smooth black-white transitions but I am always experimenting with new products.
@@EonsOfBattle Thanks for the response. I use Stynelrez black white and grey primers. Going to have to get some inks and give them a try.
Wadup EoB
personally, i double prime with the zenithal. black then white. then, use a light ink to make the base color.
Much like airbrush priming, zenithal is a technique to use if you happen to have the right tools to go with it. A way to make it easier and faster to paint. It is the sort of end all be all status of it that is weirding me out. It saves you a lot of buildup and blending works and takes away the need to understand light from a light-source like the sun. Then again, i still prime most of my stuff with a brush and my own blend of "primer" paint, slowly moving over to AB brush-on primer because again.. it is a tool that makes things faster. So i guess i am the cave-man in this question.
Nah, you're not a cave-man here. I have to brush prime as I don't have anywhere suitable to airbrush (and no airbrush) and I can only spray outside for perhaps 3 months of a year. Brush priming a zenithal feels like it's more effort than it's worth.
Also worth mentioning that the zenithal layer doesn't have to be white ink, it can be any off white or even some colors to give you a headstart on your painting over the black primer
Does a white zenithal work over a gray base? Or does it have to be black?
@@flo1fication works better over black to push the contrast (you can leave the deepest recesses black when painting) but I guess a dark grey could also work just fine
Is there a certain reason to use white ink over normal white paint through the airbrush? I feel most guides go over this step quite quickly
Just from my personal experience, regular acrylic paints (or primers) use pigments which are thicker and usually give some troubles to run smoothly through the airbrush, generating a speckling effect when they are not properly thinned, Inks on the other hand are dyes with near water consistency. Better flow, better overall result in this kind of stuff.
I have arrived albeit late :)
I like it but it can have the same problem of drawing in black and white and adding colour after, where the color looks less vibrant compared to using a coloured primer.
It can also lead to a "recoloured photo" sort of effect, if you don't know how to avoid that. Shadowed and highlighted areas rarely appear pure black (except for in the extreme shadows) or white in reality, but that's the effect you'll get if you just slap a glaze of a single colour over each area and call it done. It can look kind of unnatural.
I find it depends on if you use contrast or thinned paints. I don't thin my paints and have never needed it
It also makes details a lot clearer, making it easier to paint. Plus, thinning paints gives you access to a host of different techniques and prevents visible brushstrokes (though layering up from black is a pain, which is fixed with zenithal priming).
@@mycatistypingthis5450 that also depends too. If you want to be able to paint faster, like you said white makes bright colors easier. For me, i have enough time that I can layer up without worrying about how long it takes
Yes it helps.
But black can make a sickly shadow color for warmer colors (Looking at you Imperial Fists).
I completely dig all you mentioned, but letting it dry for a day seems odd. I usually use a heatgun and after 2 minutes just begin to paint.
Could you paint a model without doing this, then paint another from the same unit doing it and compare them?
any way to get a zenithal effect without an airbrush?
if you drybrush white over black it will get pretty close
It can be done with rattle cans, though you gotta be a bit more careful to not obscure the details.
On 15mm or smaller I just prime black & drybrush white to reveal the details.
Painting the base color is an important part, right? You want to go thinner than normal so the white shade shows through? Or do you simply use this as a guide as to where you paint your highlights?
For the algorithm
Does it have to be white ink or would white primer do the same thing?
White ink goes smoother with a better transition for me. You can thin it the same way. Hope it helps :edit: yes you can. They do the same thing
White primer is often problematic, so not using it is often a good thing. That said, I use it anyway because I use cheap dollar store primer that gets better results than GW or Vallejo primer. Somehow.
I've used a rattle can white primer over a rattle can black and it's been ok, better than not doing a Zenithal. It can be a nice effect of you're doing something like Orks where the mottled finish just makes them look a little dirty and textured, but it won't give you the creamy blends if you're after that.
@@dlh567 if your careful rattle cans work just fine, I do it all the time though a lot of times I use dark green primer instead of black on things like Troggs or even the new Kruleboyz
You can do it with both, but the pigment grains in white primer often cause a rough texture. Using ink avoids that.
Painting snob here: put the thinner before the paint in your airbrush :P
other than that nice and quick video :)
What PSI are you running? So often on YT, I see AB Zenithal (even pros) where the paint is barely atomizing as folks are spraying their models and you can see each individual drop of paint instead of a truly smooth gradient. If you are working with thicker paints or primers, don't be scared to up your pressure to get better atomization. This is why I won't rattle can anything anymore, the surface is NOT as smooth, as the propellent isn't released at constant high pressure (uneven coverage). Acrylics are WAY heavier bodied than most Automotive Urethanes and I generally need to maintain decent pressure in most cases when AB painting with those lighter paints, to get good atomization and smoother applications.
Also if you're working in Contrasts, add some full white edge highlights to your zenithal to help up the underlying brightness before going to color. You'll get more contrast outta your Contrasts.
I usually run 30psi for most of my airbrushing and sometimes go up to 50 if I was lazy and didn't properly thin my paints
Dang, I guess us plebs stuck with rattle cans are just doomed to uneven primed minis.
@@flo1fication Depending on how seriously you take your painting, it can make a difference, and air pressure control doesn't get mentioned enuf for AB users in the hobby space. You can paint your minis however you want to, but as a professional illustrator, I'm always aiming for the best end result, which means getting the best start possible. It's info many folks don't think about, which is why I brought it up. Invest in an AB, it's cheaper than rattle cans in the long run.
@@BjornKuma I'd like to get into airbrushing, money isn't an issue. I just have nowhere to put it at the moment. And I wasn't being cheeky, I was really lamenting my lack of airbrush lol
if i wasn't priming in metalic gunmetal i would but i think it would be pointless to do too base layers? if anyone disagrees i'm more than willing to be persuaded otherwise.
We ahould wait for a day for the paint to harden . My man here doesnt tho , he,s got an itchy (hair drying) trigger finger !
Lol, I just go to town on some cheap acrylic
On its own, no. When using the proper tenchniques (as mentioned) it makes a world of difference.
Did a Ressurectionist crew for Malifaux this was. 20 mook models, all zombified, used zenithal highlighting plus glazes. Pretty sick crew and 16 hours of work time. For Nicodem (master of the crew) I used standard painting techniques and a slighyly different color pallette. Spent about 10 hours on him. Too bad the crew didn't play as well as it looked...
Strange, I zenithal with a lighter brown over a red oxide prime.
if its just a reference why not just prime and shine a light from above, then take a photo or video from each angle and use that for reference. then you're not covering up your reference with your base coats
I have never seen it work for me. All i see is bright colors are easier to paint
im a beginner and from tutorials and stuff i dont see much of a diffirence
Zenithal is not for snobs, it does help and it looks hard when you're starting out with an airbrush.
The community is just being the community - scary thing looks scary so let's slate it so we don't feel bad. Either that or it's a faff/effort.
People are either up for learning something or they're not and to be fair it's their choice to make, but it just comes across as a bit childish when they're negative.
You can zenithal prime with rattle cans. An airbrush seems cool but I'm way to lazy to clean every time I want to switch a color, or having a noisy pump by my side, and I don't know where to use it. I'm painting in my PC / gaming room so not the best place to use an airbrush.
How many beginners have an air brush?
Don't tell anyone, but I do something similar with grey knights. Leadbelcher all over and then testors silver spray from above. Shh. Remember. Don't tell anyone.
I'm thinking in a fix, everyone should just play with zenithal highlighted models, they look much better with little work than playing with unpainted models
Zenithal priming is the only way to prime