My fave sub is SVS SB16 ultra that I auditioned at a friend of mine's place. But the one I have in my room (Polk audio RM6880) ain't too shabby for a 22'x12' room either, filling with decent amount of articulate bass at moderate volumes. Man I love jl audio!!! 😍
That particular model (SB16 ULTRA) is a cool one. If you are on budget I think there's only one specific subwoofer I'd go for instead of it and that's the JTR RS1.
JL Audio offers top-notch quality subwoofers. But they are too pricy for me. My favorites are SVS SB-1000 Pro and KEF KC62 for their price and my room size.
@@GramophoneMDhi my friend. What do you think about the following setup? KEF LS60 WIRELESS 2 active speakers PARADIGM XR13 subwoofer JL AUDIO F113v2 subwoofer 2X Audioquest HUSKY RCA subwoofer cable Audioquest NIAGARA 7000 power conditioner ISOTEK Evo3 SYNCRO power cord I'm using this setup strictly for my stereo HiFi system. Thank you for your answer in advance. Tom.
I'm still running Kenwood SW 501 from the end of the 90s but I replaced the driver with JL audio. It's a good sub but I believe it's time to get a new one 🔥💪🏻
I'm just curious do you think having separate 12 on each side of the couch would balance it out a bit better or just having the two 12-inch in the corner?
Hi Charles, twin subwoofers will almost always provide a more even spread of bass throughout the room, helping minimize room mode issues. All rooms will have both peaks and valleys, i.e., areas relative to the position of the sub where the bass is more prominent or less so. Two subwoofers naturally help minimize those nulls where bass seems absent. Twin Fathom V2 will therefore not only provide "more bass" or "louder bass", but better bass at more listening positions
Hello F, reverse engineering a product like this would be a challenge. The drivers are a proprietary design,and the amplifiers driving them were, a we understand it, a 5 year project for JL. They build them in their own facility in Florida so that the quality control is 100% - and they sound like it.
Ref if you can adjust the crossovers and octave gains correctly on your preamp. Variable if you have active system without the possibility to directly control these parameters through your preamp/active crossover devices.
It doesn’t. It’s accurate, but what you would expect from a pair of 12” W7s in a sealed box on RMS power. Kind of a shame from an output standpoint. I was very excited about this sub as I had a pair of 12” W7s in a ported enclosure in the late 2000s and would have given anything to have something similar in my eventual home theatre. I understand the need for a small footprint, but JL really left a lot of unused horsepower going sealed. Very articulate as you would expect, but really underwhelming from an output standpoint if you’ve ever heard them in a ported enclosure. They are always ahead of the curve in terms of electronics, there’s no way you’re going to convince me they couldn’t get the same kind of accuracy in a ported enclosure with the control of their amps and DSPs. Maybe some day…
I would go only sealed. My surround speakers are dual 10" midranges + 10" horn, those subs wouldnt hit reference volume but sealed 18" subwoofers allow to hit single digits compared to ported, you just need big enough size.@@ndoc8889
Is this a sub more for Home theater or music? Don't say both because there are tradeoffs for either... SVS = ht subs Rel / Rhythmik = 2 channel music subs
The tradeoff is sealed sounds better in all material, handles more power, and is more accurate than ported. The only benefit people claim for ported subs is that they play deeper, but this is also false. They are generally deeper only because their enclosures are much larger. Use the same size enclosure and see what is deeper. I have an SVS SB-2000 and it "only" goes to 19Hz, but the ported version goes to 17Hz, but is 2.7 times the size. Same amp, same driver, 2Hz lower. Nearly all top subs are sealed design. Porting is cheaper, thus the way most are designed.
Anybody have a sub-woofer that produces a low frequency quiet hum?. It is not the sub-woofer itself (I don't think). I can leave it plugged in and powered on and there will be NO HUM if I disconnect the inter-connect cables that are plugged from my sub to my AMP. Can the AMP itself cause a ground loop? I heard a "Isolation Transformer/Ground Loop Hum Eliminator" might help? Any suggestions? I like to listen to Jazz a lot and that music can be dynamic. Even though the hum is not very loud - During quiet passages in Jazz the noise can be very noticeable. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I have tried different inter-connects. I have tried un-balanced vs. Balanced. I have moved my power cord to different outlets in the wall and I even purchased a line conditioner. I have a Fathom f1 12.v2. - before it started to hum (Very quiet but noticeable during quieter passages) - was great. Anyway - thanks in advanced.
It could either be a ground loop or an issue with the sub's internal amp. Though if it just started happening out of nowhere and you didn't change anything else in the system then it is probable that it is the latter. I'd think about bringing in for service.
@@GramophoneMD Thanks Gramophone! - I actually fixed the problem. When I purchased my new sub-woofer and my new power AMP, I was told to go to the sub from my power AMP. And, the problem started about 1 month after. Someone suggested try going from my pre-amp. That did the trick. The sub sounds better than it ever did and it also behaves better. The knobs are much more sensitive and it shuts off automatically after no signal in about 10-12 minutes. Sometimes it never shut off when I went from the "loop back out" ports on my power AMP. No complaints at all now. If you know of anyone having a similar problem - suggest to them a different path to the sub.Thanks again for reaching out. It really was bothering me for about 1 week - 10 days.
My fave sub is SVS SB16 ultra that I auditioned at a friend of mine's place. But the one I have in my room (Polk audio RM6880) ain't too shabby for a 22'x12' room either, filling with decent amount of articulate bass at moderate volumes. Man I love jl audio!!! 😍
That particular model (SB16 ULTRA) is a cool one. If you are on budget I think there's only one specific subwoofer I'd go for instead of it and that's the JTR RS1.
I have two F113 Fathoms, they are awesome
JL Audio offers top-notch quality subwoofers. But they are too pricy for me. My favorites are SVS SB-1000 Pro and KEF KC62 for their price and my room size.
In your opinion, how does the JL Audio F212 v2 compare to Paradigm Signature Sub 2. They are very similar in price.
It's close. I prefer the JL personally. However neither is a wrong choice, both are top shelf performers.
@@GramophoneMDhi my friend. What do you think about the following setup?
KEF LS60 WIRELESS 2 active speakers
PARADIGM XR13 subwoofer
JL AUDIO F113v2 subwoofer
2X Audioquest HUSKY RCA subwoofer cable
Audioquest NIAGARA 7000 power conditioner
ISOTEK Evo3 SYNCRO power cord
I'm using this setup strictly for my stereo HiFi system.
Thank you for your answer in advance.
Tom.
I'm still running Kenwood SW 501 from the end of the 90s but I replaced the driver with JL audio. It's a good sub but I believe it's time to get a new one 🔥💪🏻
Good Martin, you were able to get around 25 years out of that sub. You'll be pleased with how technology has moved forward when you get your new one
@@GramophoneMD I believe you 100% Replacing the driver made it sound better and I've heard modern sub in audio shop. It's fantastic.
I'm just curious do you think having separate 12 on each side of the couch would balance it out a bit better or just having the two 12-inch in the corner?
Hi Charles, twin subwoofers will almost always provide a more even spread of bass throughout the room, helping minimize room mode issues. All rooms will have both peaks and valleys, i.e., areas relative to the position of the sub where the bass is more prominent or less so. Two subwoofers naturally help minimize those nulls where bass seems absent. Twin Fathom V2 will therefore not only provide "more bass" or "louder bass", but better bass at more listening positions
@@GramophoneMD thank you for that answer
How has nobody reverse engineered these gems and made them more affordable?
Hello F, reverse engineering a product like this would be a challenge. The drivers are a proprietary design,and the amplifiers driving them were, a we understand it, a 5 year project for JL. They build them in their own facility in Florida so that the quality control is 100% - and they sound like it.
what is the best mode for this crate, Ref mode or variable mode?
Ref if you can adjust the crossovers and octave gains correctly on your preamp. Variable if you have active system without the possibility to directly control these parameters through your preamp/active crossover devices.
Would this be good for music only? Or a Rel t7x
Hello Anon, this sealed subwoofer is amazing, and works great for music. Tonally it is really good, and has loads of headroom for music peaks
Any idea what Power conditioner I should use for this sub and mc901 mono blocks? Thanks
I'd go with either an AudioQuest Niagara 7000, or a McIntosh MPC1500.
@@GramophoneMD I had niagara 7000 for almost 2 years and synergistic powercell sx and both not good but thank you
For 9 grand, I sure hope it would back the screws out of my subfloors. I bet it would ❤️
It doesn’t. It’s accurate, but what you would expect from a pair of 12” W7s in a sealed box on RMS power. Kind of a shame from an output standpoint. I was very excited about this sub as I had a pair of 12” W7s in a ported enclosure in the late 2000s and would have given anything to have something similar in my eventual home theatre. I understand the need for a small footprint, but JL really left a lot of unused horsepower going sealed. Very articulate as you would expect, but really underwhelming from an output standpoint if you’ve ever heard them in a ported enclosure. They are always ahead of the curve in terms of electronics, there’s no way you’re going to convince me they couldn’t get the same kind of accuracy in a ported enclosure with the control of their amps and DSPs. Maybe some day…
Haha yes buddy It can do this and more very easily :). They hit very hard so be ware with your neighbors.
I would go only sealed. My surround speakers are dual 10" midranges + 10" horn, those subs wouldnt hit reference volume but sealed 18" subwoofers allow to hit single digits compared to ported, you just need big enough size.@@ndoc8889
Is this a sub more for Home theater or music? Don't say both because there are tradeoffs for either... SVS = ht subs Rel / Rhythmik = 2 channel music subs
Both
The tradeoff is sealed sounds better in all material, handles more power, and is more accurate than ported. The only benefit people claim for ported subs is that they play deeper, but this is also false. They are generally deeper only because their enclosures are much larger. Use the same size enclosure and see what is deeper.
I have an SVS SB-2000 and it "only" goes to 19Hz, but the ported version goes to 17Hz, but is 2.7 times the size. Same amp, same driver, 2Hz lower. Nearly all top subs are sealed design. Porting is cheaper, thus the way most are designed.
Anybody have a sub-woofer that produces a low frequency quiet hum?. It is not the sub-woofer itself (I don't think). I can leave it plugged in and powered on and there will be NO HUM if I disconnect the inter-connect cables that are plugged from my sub to my AMP. Can the AMP itself cause a ground loop? I heard a "Isolation Transformer/Ground Loop Hum Eliminator" might help? Any suggestions? I like to listen to Jazz a lot and that music can be dynamic. Even though the hum is not very loud - During quiet passages in Jazz the noise can be very noticeable. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I have tried different inter-connects. I have tried un-balanced vs. Balanced. I have moved my power cord to different outlets in the wall and I even purchased a line conditioner.
I have a Fathom f1 12.v2. - before it started to hum (Very quiet but noticeable during quieter passages) - was great. Anyway - thanks in advanced.
It could either be a ground loop or an issue with the sub's internal amp. Though if it just started happening out of nowhere and you didn't change anything else in the system then it is probable that it is the latter. I'd think about bringing in for service.
@@GramophoneMD Thanks Gramophone! - I actually fixed the problem. When I purchased my new sub-woofer and my new power AMP, I was told to go to the sub from my power AMP. And, the problem started about 1 month after. Someone suggested try going from my pre-amp. That did the trick. The sub sounds better than it ever did and it also behaves better. The knobs are much more sensitive and it shuts off automatically after no signal in about 10-12 minutes. Sometimes it never shut off when I went from the "loop back out" ports on my power AMP. No complaints at all now. If you know of anyone having a similar problem - suggest to them a different path to the sub.Thanks again for reaching out. It really was bothering me for about 1 week - 10 days.
It's 10k, so it better supply the best base you ever heard.
Hi Will, we can share that it is incredible, an amazing product!
RE Audio XXX
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