@@OldDominionTroutBumIve watched many, if not all, of you videos. Thank you, very much for putting out content. If I could humbly offer a suggestion to further aid people, I think laying out your leader configuration (Length, diameter, taper, etc) and bead size would help, as they can effect your ability to do some things. Additionally, I have yet to find content that specifically addresses ultra light, level mono rigs and very lightly weighted flies. Perhaps I missed something out there. Thank you, again
@@greggeckberg6839 I appreciate it. I'm glad the videos have been helpful. I have done a Micro Leader video that talks about my setup. Thanks for the suggestions, and I'll try to address them in the future. Tight lines!
When I first started contact nymphing I was just lobbing em in….but more recently dialing in this same technique with much more success. It works especially well to get tight quickly in faster current. Your tips are right on point!!! Thanks!
Great pointers & explained in a concise, logical, chronological order. As I said in the first video of yours I viewed, sharing pointers & tips (at least for me) is what I like about your videos rather than a ‘watch me catch fish & subscribe to watch me catch more fish regularly’ feed. The only thing that could make it better is if you had two cameras so you could add a panned view of your actual casts & leader movements and landings in the pond but I realize this isn’t a Paramount Motion picture! Keep the pointers coming & thanks for sharing your knowledge! Tight lines!
Thank you so much Tim. Really appreciate it! I wish I had a camera man to help. I told my wife that I may be enlisting her for some camera work so I can get up to the Paramount level! Glad you find my tips helpful. Good luck out on the stream and tight lines!
Well Done man! I'm slowly making my way through your videos. Agreed with everything you said... Casting with purpose on every cast and getting to contact quickly is important instead of just lobbing them in. Many people, including myself, use the oval cast often, and I feel my accuracy is good, but for a beginner hitting any kind of target is tougher! And I find that once I get beyond 15 feet I'm using your casting method every time especially with lighter leaders.
Appreciate it, White Dog! Casting definitely is the number one most important thing. It sets up everything. Thanks for watching my vids. Tight lines to you!
Making my way through your video's! I am new to Euro Nymphing! I just got a Syndicate P2 10'3wt and I find your video's very informative and well done! Thank you for taking the time to explain!
Thx Corey…Good stuff. You brought up a great point encouraging practice before hitting the stream. You are exactly right. On countless occasions I “intend” to practice tight lining, then once on the water I quickly revert back to what I know & love dry fly, dry/dropper. I’ll put in the work in the backyard. Thx for the tips.
Another exceptional video. On a bit of a side note: it is most appreciated your humbleness and modesty and appreciation. You mention if we liked your video and it helped us out, you would appreciate it if we gave you a thumbs up; and you appreciate the support and if we liked what you are doing, you would appreciate it if we subscribed. Most persons making RUclips content tell the listeners to smash the like button and make sure we subscribe to the channel. To me that is a turn off as they assume they deserve the same; you do not. However, in your case Corey, you definitely do deserve it as you are putting out high quality content with professionalism and many, many teaching points that have helped probably countless anglers like myself getting into Euro nymphing for the first time (this summer). I can’t wait to Euro Nymph the Beaverkill, Willowemoc, and Delaware Rivers this fall/winter where I grew up learning how to fly fish from my father. All the best brother and hopefully see you out on the water.
Thank you, Milan. Incredibly nice of you to say. I wish you the best of luck this fall on those 3 incredible streams. What a great place to learn with your Dad. The Beaverkill is where I caught my first trout with my Dad. So it will always be a special place to me. Thank you for your support and tight lines, my friend!
Nice one Cory, yes I've seen plenty of people struggle with the casting but you're right, it's not that different to conventional fly casting. One of the big ones that I see is that you must have tension on the flies before your casting stroke, whether that's the initial pickup or the forward casting stroke. Watching someone try to roll cast pickup with a euro rig is always entertaining! Keep up the great vids mate. :)
Thanks Corey! I have picked up other things from you along the way. I do fish at a distance when necessary but the cast is so automatic. Next time out I will have to be conscious of my technique and make adjustments if necessary using your techniques.Once again thanks for your instruction!
I agree; Euro Nymphing is not just a "short-line" "small water" technique. Many (nearly all) videos on YT represent this style of fly fishing as a technique for small streams only... reaching and essentially holding the nymph while it floats through the water column. I've never believed that. This technique can certainly be used as “at distance” fishing. Most of it is about line control. According to your "About" tab description, you're in the east/northeast. I fish mainly in the west/midwest (MT., WY., UT., CO., S.D., N.D., MN., IA., NE., etc.) but it doesn’t matter; the same applies for most water. Thank you, sir, for addressing this with some intelligence… well-spoken, articulate, knowledge, actual experience, and more. New subscriber, with the bell.
Hi Corey. Thanks for all the great content. Also enjoyed seeing you with Derrick on Instagram live a few weeks back. Could you clear somethings up for me? When you say you want to fish 25 ft out....that's from your body right? Not the rod tip? Just trying to get a better feel for how much of your leader is out of the rod tip. And would you include the tippet length as part of that length or would you stop at the end of the sighter, assuming the tippet is essentially directly below the sighter. Trying to practice casting in the back yard with my newly acquired used T and T 1133 from Upcountry (thanks Torrey). Right now I have a 18ft of 12lb amnesia, to 3 ft of 0x transition, to 18 inches of 3x connected to my euro line as my leader set up. Dialing in where that euro line to leader is physically so I can have a good reference when I'm on the water. Sorry that was long winded. Any guidance is appreciated.
Glad you enjoy the content! When I say 25ft out-it is from my body. The length of my leader, including tippet is approx 27-28ft (23 ft to the tippet ring, the another approx 4ft (more or less...of tippet). This is what I use on my 10' 9" T&T. What you can to do is go in your yard and mark 20, 25, 30ft then make your cast. Make sure you hold your rod at the stopping position. This way it's easy to see where you euro line is in your rod. Hope this helps. Thanks so much for watching and good luck to you.
Great insight and explanation! Apparently you are a real good teacher as well as Fisherman. I'm so jealous lol. I will continue to watch and rewatch your videos so please keep them coming! Had beautiful day out on the Beaverkill this week. Even caught a few Trout! And 2 of them were on nymphs! Your tips definitely helped. Thank you again for your time and help
Thanks, Anthony. Appreciate it! Glad you has some success on the Beaverkill. Love that place. I’ll keep ‘em coming. Thanks for watching and tight lines!
Great info! I had watched your videos previously, being a serious bass fisherman I get the line management aspects right away and this helped me right off the bat!!! I’ve been basically euro nymphing with my 4wt for wild brookies for several years and that helped with this…
Oh sorry about that, that should have been on the dropper tag video....I had moved on to this one sooner than I thought....I find ending with the loop and then just Cutting it interesting. A different take on what I've seen....
Thanks for the great info. Your right , not a lot of info about on making the correct cast. We are back in lock down in New Zealand so I have plenty of time to get out on the back lawn and practice your technique. Cheers
Appreciate you watching Hayden. Hope your lock down doesn’t last too long for you. But you are right, time for some lawn practice! Tight lines and cheers Mate!
Great video, I think that a lot of people will find it helpful! I like how you explained how you were keeping tension and control throughout the cast into the start of the drift, it isn't called contact nymphing for no reason! I was going to do a euro casting video as well but I think I have some other ideas to put in there as well.
Just wanted to tell you Thanks! I tied my first perdigones today. I had to start over on one fly twice. The material is so fragile. Tied a green one and a quill perdigone. Maybe I put a little too much black wing case. I ordered Gulff and the sent Loon. Thank again Corey.
Great informative video Corey ! Casting isn’t one of my strong points , although after a few minutes on the water, I kind of find my rhythm! Love the series, and looking forward to seeing what’s up next ! Good job buddy 👍
When I first started watching your videos I knew you were somehow influenced by George Daniel or Joe Humphreys. I've been struggling with this cast and line management technique for quite a while. However, something you said in this video clicked for me. Extending your casting arm really takes your shoulder and elbow out of the equation and makes you depend more on your wrist. My cast is looking pretty good now and I can see where you would be able to cover a lot of water in a short time. Hope you're considering a line management video too.
Definitely influenced by George, Annette! So glad the video helps you. And you are correct, having your arm forward makes the wrist do most of the work. And btw, line management is the next video. Appreciate you watching!
Loved this! I do wish I could see how far back your flies go behind you or to the side. Almost like a river shot that’s zoomed out. When you finish down stream you pop it up and cast back up, just not sure what those flies are doing exactly.
Thanks, Jaron. That's tough to do with a one-man show. But it's unfolding and tracking just like any other fly cast. If I have out 25 feet of line, then 25ft is fulling extending behind me so the bugs can load the rod. As you practice, just watch your bugs fully extend behind you before you go forward. Just wait and be patient with it. Most of the problems I see are people that rush everything. Wait....almost feel uncomfortable with waiting....let the backcast extend, then go forward. If you watch some of my fishing videos, you'll get an idea of what happens on the forward cast.
@@OldDominionTroutBum Thank you 🙏. I’ve been trying to figure out what I was doing wrong. Like you say in your video people just kept telling me , you just need to lob it. It’s been driving me crazy. I’ve developed the nasty habit of swinging my whole arm just like you’ve said and not flexing the wrist. So I tried tucking my elbow in and just using my wrist , which was slightly better . Now I know the secret is to have the arm in front and flex the wrist . Thanks for a brilliant explanation 👏👏👏👏
Excellent instructions on Euro Nymphing casting. What fly line are you using in these instructions? Do you use more than one type of fly line when Euro Nymphing ?
Thanks so much! I always use the same setup. You can see it here is the video or description: ruclips.net/video/_LsHADwel28/видео.html Appreciate you watching.
Thanks for the video. Devin Olsen has a video titled "Improving Your Euro Nymphing Cast" where he demonstrates a more oval shaped cast, especially for lighter leaders. I'm curious what your thoughts are on that style of casting as compared to what you show in the video. Would appreciate any opinions.
Appreciate you watching, Jack. I’m familiar with Devin’s way and the oval cast clearly works for him. It does work, but you have to time it perfectly so you remain accurate. I used to use his way but was “broke” of the habit by someone who is well know in the sport. The modified traditional cast that I use is super efficient, accurate and versatile. Just keep everything smooth, connected and slow. And, I too use a micro leader of 4x. Hope this helps!
In case others are struggling and find themselves every now and then lobbing again like me, I suggest that you switch for a while to underweight nymphs, just to force yourself to cast properly and get them to the right depth.
Hey Cory, when you say you have 25ft of line out, is that 25ft from the end of the rod to the bug? I believe your preferred leader set up is 18ft of color line to 5ft of sighter with 3 to 5ft of tippet. So with that recipe you wouldn't have any fly line past the tip of the rod. That means your loading your rod without the benefit of any fly line weight. Would that be a correct assumption? I am new to casting a micro leader set up and I'm working on trying to understand the mechanics of the euro cast as you perform it.
Hey William. You are correct. There is no fly line out of the tip of the rod (ever). These rods were built to be loaded by the weight of the flies (even light ones), not the line. If you watch this video here, I talk about the leader in greater detail. ruclips.net/video/_LsHADwel28/видео.htmlsi=_fJFFH4vXf41x9lZ Hope this helps.
Hi Cory, I broke the tip on my T&T Contact II yesterday. It's a 10ft9" 3wt. The leader was rapped around the tip so set the rod down and was manipulating the tip to unwrap it and broke off a 2 1/2" piece. I am heart broke and will be sending it in for repair. Are you hearing about these lighter weight rods easily breaking? I should have unwrapped they line from the rod instead of moving the rod tip to unwrap the leader.
@@williamlee2335 William, knock on wood-I’ve never broke a rod tip. Weird things happen, odd angles, weighted nymph hitting, etc….Great thing is they will take care of it.
Good video. Question: most of the time I’m starting a cast from the end of the drift well downstream of my target. Can you include a video on how to setup the next cast at the end of a drift?
Appreciate it, Andrew. If you watch my new video: The top 5 things to learn. I actually talk about that. You need to make sure you have a target in mind after the drift. Square your shoulders to the target and position your flies at the 180 degree mark behind you of your target before you release your forward cast. Hope this helps.
Cory, you mentioned that sometimes when you false cast you are making adjustments to get your bugs 180’ behind you. What are you doing to make that adjustment. I have noticed that even a slight breeze can change the trajectory of the back cast and therefore affecting the forward cast,
William, picture trying to cast to 12 o'clock. Your backcast needs to be at 6. Now if I want to move to 1 o'clock...I have to make micro movements on each false cast towards to 1 and 7 position. If a slight breeze is affecting your back cast, you are probably rushing it and losing connection with your bugs. Just slow everything down a bit-wait for the backcast to finish before going forward. This way you won't lose connection. Hope this helps.
Thanks, Pedro. If you watch this video here, I talk about different types of casts: ruclips.net/video/oPmcAZZmf-0/видео.htmlsi=z9jEtgNE9IYyWDhZ I also have a video coming out soon talking about different casting angles. That should be able to help you, as well. Tight lines.
@@OldDominionTroutBum thank you , would love to understand how to cast in thigh spots Ausência I love fishing small streams but they have heavy vegetation cover ,the kind of cover that holds good fish in the summer
Thanks, Mike! I don't fish for steelhead, but I do know it will absolutely work for them. I know there are a couple of Euro rods made specifically for them. T&T and Diamondback, for instance.
Thanks for sharing your technique! I find though that false casting with heavy nymphs and a long thin mono leader can be problematic. It causes tangles and requires some serious snap in the cast to propel the flies forward. Personally I find the oval cast with a tuck at the end is way more efficient, accurate, and easier on the arm. It’s all preference though.
Appreciate you watching Mr J! If you have ever watched my fishing videos, you can see that I false cast quite frequently. I also use a 4x micro leader. I don’t have a problem with tangles. Just keeping it smooth and connected is key. I used to used an oval cast, but was broke of that habit by someone who is well known in this sport. Personally, I find this cast is more efficient and far more accurate. I agree with you, it is all preference. Tight lines to you!
@@OldDominionTroutBum You certainly make a strong argument. I’ll give it a try next time I am out and see how it goes. I absolutely agree that anything you can do to get tight to the sighter quickly is important.
Gustavo, every rod is different, so it is hard to tell you what the limit would be. You can cast as much weight as you want, but you will start losing accuracy and recovery in the rod. This rod, a T&T 3wt, for example, casts really great up to a 3.5mm bead and a 2.5mm dropper. Once you go over that, you will lose some recovery. On the low end, it will cast a single 2.3mm. It is all trial and error to see what YOUR rod can do. But to get the most out of your rod, you have to have sold fundamentals. Hope this helps.
Have you found a minimum single or combined bead weight required to make your cast? I've been practicing with your leader formula, with a 2.7mm bead on a cut hook and find it very hard to straighten out the leader. I will keep practicing. Any further insights into achieving an effective accurate cast?
Hey Marc, I would go to a heavier bead when practicing. (3.3). Once you get that down, you will find it easier with lighter weights. I’m guessing that you may be rushing and losing connection with your fly. Just slow everything down and maintain that connection to throughout the cast from beginning to end. On your backcast, just wait a little longer (almost until it’s too uncomfortable…thinking it’s too long) before you make you forward cast. I hope this helps. Let me know.
Another question for you. Would this cast be also used for a micro leader, say, 6 lb? I keep reading about a half oval cast starting low to the water, and then up and over the head. Devin Olson I believe describes a micro cast this way. But a straight up and back cast like you describe seems to work like you describe for my micro leader. And my cast with a 20# mono leader also works pretty well up and back. Thanks much! Toney
Toney, I’m using a micro leader (4x) in this video. Every cast is the same, no matter the leader. I am not a fan of the oval cast at all. If you watch George Daniel-he doesn’t use an oval either. I’ve done a video on a micro leader and I specifically talk about the common misconceptions about them and also I address the oval cast how it leads to inaccuracy: ruclips.net/video/_LsHADwel28/видео.html Obviously it works for Devin, but it is a cast the has to be timed perfectly. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Cory, I noticed many comments on your 10'9" 3-wt T&T. I'm planning on upgrading this year to that rod from a 10' intro rod and was wondering if you are still able to fish steamers and dry droppers or even throw a dry on occasion with that rod?
Hey Jack. I use it all of the time for streamers and dry-droppers. I'll even carry an extra spool with a WF2wt line and throw dries. You will really love this rod. Good luck with it.
Cory, thanks for great Euro casting video! I noticed your reel is a Ross Evolution LTX which is not a "fully caged" reel...i have always been told when Euro fishing you MUST have a fully framed reel? Can you comment on this??? Thanks.
Hey William-Ross build their reels with such tight tolerances, it’s almost like they are caged. You would never have a problem with micro leaders. That being said-Euro specific reels are built with a lot of thought….Full cage, recessed knobs, curved edges, etc….These are always nice to have. When I did this video, Sage, Galvan, Orvis had yet to even come out with Euro reels. Appreciate you watching!
Love your videos Corey and also your explanations. One of the things I can't make out properly though and you touch on it in this video about false casting/ repositioning your flies on the back cast. Are you fishing with your fly line out of the rod tip or is this purely the leader.
Thank you. Appreciate the kind words. It is purely my leader that I’m fishing. It is approx 28 feet long to my fly. My fly line never makes it out of my rod, even on a 30 ft cast. Hope this helps and thanks for watching.
@@OldDominionTroutBum brilliant Corey thank you for the explanation. Is your leader level all the same diameter and clear or is it coloured. Do you attach a bi colour sighter or do you use wax to change your depth if needed. You make the casting look so easy I will have to make the effort to slow down my cast. Would be brilliant if you could do a video of your leader set up. Keep the videos coming they are a pleasure to watch. Alec ..
Another fantastic video. I am a beginner and I have be struggling with my cast and getting my sighter line tight. I am going out to the yard to practice right now! I was wondering if there is a net you suggest? I tried a measure net and the holes were so small it is impossible to use in fast water.
Thank you, Butch! Haha…nothing better than yard practice! I think the best net is a Frabill 18x13. I cut the elastic off the end and make a new loop with paracord. Devin Olsen has a video on how to do it on his channel. Good luck with your casting!
Jake, my main leader to my tippet ring is approx. 24 ft (this is for my 10’9” rod). Then I typically run 4 ft of tippet. So my overall length is in the 28 ft range. I use a level .22mm Euro fly line and always like to keep it within my rod, never letting it go out the top. I like the euro fly line because I have better tactile feel when I am managing my slack. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@@rickbeggs4300 I use approx 18ft of .18mm Pezon & Michel Color Line in floro yellow mono (which is the diameter of 4x) and 5ft of .16mm Pezon & Michel bi-color mono for sighter (which is approx 5x) to the tippet ring. A good substitute for Pezon is Sempe mono.
Great information, but what about if you don’t have the room to backcast? Do you advocate for a water load cast in tight areas? But a water load cast doesn’t punch the flies into the water. I’m try to use perdigons with traditional fly line and leader setup, and I am with some success. Trying to have one setup do most styles of fly fishing. Not perfect but it works. Thanks Corey!
Thanks Scott! I use the water load cast a ton. Especially for finesse type casts, getting under low hanging trees, and tight corners with no backcast. You can deliver your bugs into the water like a tuck cast with the water load if you start with your wrist cocked back and rod tip low to the water….then with the same motion, slide your arm foward and up (low to high) with you rod tip stopping high. Your bugs will will shoot up and arc over and come straight down diving into the water. Hope this makes sense….Joe Humphries uses traditional fly line and he is one of the best to ever do it!! Thanks so much for watching!
Do you sell your Jack Daniel’s flies ? Really like your videos! I am a new fly fisherman and just started to have success nymphing but I have much to learn. I live in Northern VA but spend summers in Montana and Idaho mainly dry fly fishing for Cutthroat but I need to expand my game to cover subsurface action.
Hey Kenneth. I don't sell them....They are sold in a shop in Australia. I have a few videos that can help. One is the "Top 5 things to learn". This is what you need to focus on. Spending your summers in MT and ID sounds amazing. Tight lines to you.
This is so well explained, but it would be helpful to visualize loop shape. With weighted bugs, is this more of an oval (belgian) cast where the bug stays under the loop shape, or is it like a dry fly cast where the fly is above the loop as it uncoils?
Appreciate it Stephen! I would love to show the loops on this video, but filming with just me and an iPhone is tough. If you look at any of my fishing videos you will see tons of video with my casts and see how the flies are delivered. I don’t use the Belgian cast…it certainly works, but it is inaccurate if you don’t have the timing down perfect. This style was taught to me by someone really well known. It’s highly accurate and the bugs come over your rod on the backcast and forward cast just like a traditional dry. You just need to a use more wrist and less arm and don’t rush….just stay nice and smooth.
@@OldDominionTroutBum Thanks! That helps. I'm so used to using a "helicopter" cast with heavy streamers that I've been using that as well with weighted nymphs, so this is an eye opener. Also, explaining why you cast with your arm extended also was an "aha" moment. Sure appreciate the care you put into your teaching...same with the way you explain how and why you tie your flies. Keep em coming, really great videos.
Thank you Corey! So, when you are actually on the water fishing , do you (on average) have about 20ft of the fly line out of the rod tip plus the 25 ft to 30 ft of micro leader as well??
Beaker, it's more about how far away from the target I am. It all varies based on the conditions. I am all about practicing in the yard. I still do it all the time. When you mark spots in your yard (20 ft, 30 ft, etc...), you can make that cast, stop and put you rod down with the stretched out line-then measure the length. You will then know how much line it takes out of the rod to get to certain distances. If you watch my micro leader video-you will see that my euro fly line rarely makes it out of the top of the rod (only on the longest of casts it will). Appreciate you watching and hope this helps.
@@OldDominionTroutBum Thank you for clearing that up! Do you think that your 10’9” 3 wt euro rod makes your casting a micro leader easier compared to a 10’ 3wt rod? Appreciate your help!
@@Vectorp47 I use both the 10'9" 2wt and 3wt, as well as the 10ft 2wt. They all cast micro leaders great. The 2wts do a better job with lighter bugs (say a single 2.5), but when you have a 2.8 or 3.0-they all are in the same league.
Appreciate it, Snake. There are a lot to choose from and it depends on your budget...but I prefer reels with a closed cage made for Euro Nymphing. Sage ESN, Galvan GEN, and Orvis Hydros Euro are all great ones.
Great video! Very good tips. Do you have a favorite line wt for euro style fishing with your 3 wt? I fish a 10’ 4 wt and have played around with everything from 2-5wt.
Thanks Chris! I use Cortland euro fly line with the braided core. It would work well with your 10’ 4wt. It is for straight nymphing only. Appreciate you watching!
Perhaps, Josh. But I suspect you aren't waiting long enough for your bugs to fully extend behind you. You will feel it. My suggestion would be to watch your back cast fully extend, I bet you'll feel it at the end.
@@OldDominionTroutBum thank you so much for all you do to help the fly fishing community I know just from this past Sunday on Penns creek from watching your videos I was more successful and more confident in what I was doing and put some fish in the net
@@OldDominionTroutBum you're the man... a couple follow ups... 1. I presume that's the 10'9" 3wt contact 2? 2. Are you aware how much weight your backing/line/etc lands at? For example the reel is listed at 4.29oz empty, and I'd estimate my "total line" weight is usually around 1oz, so I'd presumably land around 5.29oz. Do you happen to know what your setup lands at?
Justin, it is on my 10ft 9in 3wt. I’m not sure if the entire weight after the line is on, but it balances it just fine. I actually use a Galvan GEN 3.5 more with the 3wt. You can easily balance the 1093 with total weight of 4.8-5.5oz or so. A lot of guys like it heavier, but it works perfectly fine for me.
I am now converting to your method from the oval cast. I have the same rod as you. I started with some 4x Sempe and followed your formula. My accuracy is awful. I don’t think my back cast is unrolling well. Any pointers? Should I go back up to a 10# but and work down? Or maybe increase the weight. I know it is hard to diagnose without seeing. I will keep after working on this cast method tho. I see it is a better way. Ty for your guidance
Nathan, the oval cast is highly inaccurate. Without seeing, I’m guessing that you are not allowing your line to extend all the way on your back cast. You have to wait long enough where it feels almost uncomfortable. When I’m out with friends and they ask for help, I’m always saying “wait…wait…wait” in the backcast. That is the biggest mistake I see. No need to rush it. I actually would suggest weighting up to a 3.3 bead until your really get the feel down. The line has nothing to do with the cast, it’s all in the rod. Go out in the yard and practice. Hope this helps. Good luck.
One more question do you usually have enough fly-line out so that it is completely out of the rod tip. Or are you able to load the rod with the just the leader out of the rod tip and the fly line maybe half way up the rod? In other words does the rod load better with some line out? Many thanks.
Nathan, check out my micro leader video. ruclips.net/video/_LsHADwel28/видео.html I talk about my set up and answer that question in the video. 90% of the time the fly line is never out of the rod. Euro rods were designed to be loaded by weighted nymphs, not fly line. Hope this helps.
Apologies if it's been asked, I scanned through the comments. On the back cast, are you waiting until you feel what Devin Olsens describes as the doink (flies straighening out) to start the forward cast or is that already too late?
Stephen, in my video, I say you will feel a slight "tug". That is what Devin means by the "doink". You will not be too late once you feel it. As a matter of fact, once you feel it, if you wait for a smidge more it will be better. I tell people to wait on the back cast. Almost wait until it is uncomfortable...then go forward. Almost all poor casts are because people rush and do not allow their bugs to extend fully behind them. The best thing you can do is practice in your yard and watch your forward cast AND your backcast. Watch it as you feel the tug and you will see that even if you wait for another second, you will be perfectly fine. The key is everything needs to be smooth and in control. Hope this helps.
@@OldDominionTroutBum Thank you for clarifying, wanted to ensure "tug" and "doink" were the same. I feel the tug is throwing me off sometimes thinking that the cadence is wrong, especially with heavily weighted flies. I feel I need to smooth out the cast more and maybe not emphasize such hard stops. Sometimes I really wish i had video of myself... I definitely need more time on the lawn. Appreciate the help and videos, sir!
Robert, your sighter should never hit the water, unless you want to float it to suspend a nymph or you are “dipping” it to let your nymphs go deeper. It needs to be a tight connection.
When you say practice a 20 foot cast. Are you saying 20 feet from you or 20 feet of line out? The latter is closer to 30 feet from you including the length of the rod.
Aye Cory for a beginner how much line should I have out from the rod tip to start my cast ..I know your video your starting with 25 ft ...so is that amt of line I should be starting with from my reel or from the rod tip
Bubba-don’t overthink it. Just stand 20ft away from a target in the grass and try to hit it with a straight line from the grass to the rod tip (make sure the rod tip is on a fishing position). That is how much line you should have out. After a while, it just becomes muscle memory.
Not really following your question, Pat. But everything is situational, you should always be casting, not lobbing. Even a bow and arrow cast will deliver your bugs deliberately.
This probably explains why people are using heavier beads than they need: because their casting stroke is garbage. I certainly was guilty of this when I first started-- I couldn't get contact with anything less than a 4.0 on the anchor-- mostly because my flies were hitting the water horizontally instead of vertically. If you stop the rod tip high, as in a tuck cast, the flies plunge into the water and get down fast. Then you can trade out that 4.0 bead for a 3.0 bead and attract more fish. Lighter line also allows lighter flies to sink faster with a proper cast.
I agree… most people use too much weight. That’s why I don’t like the term “anchor” fly. It has a heavy connotation. If you learn the proper fundamentals of the cast, you can get lighter bugs to dive down pretty quick. Appreciate you watching!
Excellent stuff! One question: When you say 20 or 25 foot cast, I assume you mean a distance from your hand, correct? I don't think you mean that a 20 foot cast is 20 feet from the end of the fly rod, correct? Thanks! Toney
There are great fly fishermen and there are great teachers. You are BOTH! Thank you for generously sharing your depth of experience .
So nice of you to say, Brian! Thank you!
@@OldDominionTroutBumIve watched many, if not all, of you videos. Thank you, very much for putting out content. If I could humbly offer a suggestion to further aid people, I think laying out your leader configuration (Length, diameter, taper, etc) and bead size would help, as they can effect your ability to do some things. Additionally, I have yet to find content that specifically addresses ultra light, level mono rigs and very lightly weighted flies. Perhaps I missed something out there. Thank you, again
@@greggeckberg6839 I appreciate it. I'm glad the videos have been helpful. I have done a Micro Leader video that talks about my setup.
Thanks for the suggestions, and I'll try to address them in the future. Tight lines!
You and George Daniels are the best Euronymphing instructors I have ever heard. Many thanks. ( Army)
Wow. Awesome company to be in! Appreciate the compliment, Gustave. Tight lines to you!
I keep coming back to your videos time after time - best resource out there. Thanks from Scotland.
Thanks for coming back, Nick! I really appreciate the kind words. Tight lines to you and Slainte!
When I first started contact nymphing I was just lobbing em in….but more recently dialing in this same technique with much more success. It works especially well to get tight quickly in faster current. Your tips are right on point!!! Thanks!
Vinny! Definitely works in those faster currents for sure. Appreciate you watching! Tight lines my friend!!
2 years ago, I thought your Euro cast coaching made a lot of sense and would be helpful …2 years on, I know you’re right 👍🏿👌 thank you Cory
Awesome to hear, TK! Thanks for letting me know, my friend!
Great pointers & explained in a concise, logical, chronological order. As I said in the first video of yours I viewed, sharing pointers & tips (at least for me) is what I like about your videos rather than a ‘watch me catch fish & subscribe to watch me catch more fish regularly’ feed. The only thing that could make it better is if you had two cameras so you could add a panned view of your actual casts & leader movements and landings in the pond but I realize this isn’t a Paramount Motion picture! Keep the pointers coming & thanks for sharing your knowledge! Tight lines!
Thank you so much Tim. Really appreciate it! I wish I had a camera man to help. I told my wife that I may be enlisting her for some camera work so I can get up to the Paramount level! Glad you find my tips helpful. Good luck out on the stream and tight lines!
Well Done man! I'm slowly making my way through your videos. Agreed with everything you said... Casting with purpose on every cast and getting to contact quickly is important instead of just lobbing them in. Many people, including myself, use the oval cast often, and I feel my accuracy is good, but for a beginner hitting any kind of target is tougher! And I find that once I get beyond 15 feet I'm using your casting method every time especially with lighter leaders.
Appreciate it, White Dog! Casting definitely is the number one most important thing. It sets up everything. Thanks for watching my vids. Tight lines to you!
Yes Galvan. There is two sizes to choose from. Wanted to see which would be appropriate for this style of nymphing. Thank you.
They are both made for nymphing. It depends on your rod size/weight/length. I personally like the 3.5.
Making my way through your video's! I am new to Euro Nymphing! I just got a Syndicate P2 10'3wt and I find your video's very informative and well done! Thank you for taking the time to explain!
Hey Jeffrey-glad the videos are helping. Appreciate you watching! Good luck
to you with your Euro journey. Tight lines!
Best topic ever.
Thanks, Pat.
Thx Corey…Good stuff.
You brought up a great point encouraging practice before hitting the stream. You are exactly right. On countless occasions I “intend” to practice tight lining, then once on the water I quickly revert back to what I know & love dry fly, dry/dropper. I’ll put in the work in the backyard. Thx for the tips.
Thanks Ben! We are all guilty of falling back into what we know. Good luck and tight lines to you!
Another exceptional video. On a bit of a side note: it is most appreciated your humbleness and modesty and appreciation. You mention if we liked your video and it helped us out, you would appreciate it if we gave you a thumbs up; and you appreciate the support and if we liked what you are doing, you would appreciate it if we subscribed. Most persons making RUclips content tell the listeners to smash the like button and make sure we subscribe to the channel. To me that is a turn off as they assume they deserve the same; you do not. However, in your case Corey, you definitely do deserve it as you are putting out high quality content with professionalism and many, many teaching points that have helped probably countless anglers like myself getting into Euro nymphing for the first time (this summer). I can’t wait to Euro Nymph the Beaverkill, Willowemoc, and Delaware Rivers this fall/winter where I grew up learning how to fly fish from my father. All the best brother and hopefully see you out on the water.
Thank you, Milan. Incredibly nice of you to say.
I wish you the best of luck this fall on those 3 incredible streams. What a great place to learn with your Dad. The Beaverkill is where I caught my first trout with my Dad. So it will always be a special place to me.
Thank you for your support and tight lines, my friend!
Nice one Cory, yes I've seen plenty of people struggle with the casting but you're right, it's not that different to conventional fly casting. One of the big ones that I see is that you must have tension on the flies before your casting stroke, whether that's the initial pickup or the forward casting stroke. Watching someone try to roll cast pickup with a euro rig is always entertaining! Keep up the great vids mate. :)
Thanks Peachy! Appreciate you watching! Totally agree with you….the roll cast is a tough one when you are flipping a 2.8 bead! Cheers mate!
Thanks for this video Cory. It definitely fills a gap in the information out there on casting Euro rigs.
Glad it is helpful, Todd. Tight lines to you.
Thanks Corey! I have picked up other things from you along the way. I do fish at a distance when necessary but the cast is so automatic. Next time out I will have to be conscious of my technique and make adjustments if necessary using your techniques.Once again thanks for your instruction!
Glad it helped Dale! Always appreciate you watching and your comments. Good luck with it and tight lines!
Fantastic - love your instruction, very, very helpful!!! Thank you!!!
Appreciate it, Dean. Glad it is helpful! Tight lines to you!
Totally channeling George Daniel’s casting motion! And he learned from Joe Humphrey! Exceptional.
Appreciate it, Dan! I definitely subscribe to George’s way of doing it. He is the man and so is Joe! Thanks for watching.
Great instruction . You have some of the best videos on RUclips.
Thanks so much, Gary. Really appreciate it. Tight lines to you!
Thank you for the demonstration and technique practice-practice-practice and thank you again
Glad it is helpful, Jerome!
Great info! This will help me slow things down! To often I get excited and euro to fast and sloppy. Thx for sharing👍
Slow is definitely better for sure but we all still get excited! Thanks for watching!
Great casting tutorial. I like the suggestion to cut the hook off and focus on a target. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you, David. Getting out in your yard will be a huge help.
I agree; Euro Nymphing is not just a "short-line" "small water" technique. Many (nearly all) videos on YT represent this style of fly fishing as a technique for small streams only... reaching and essentially holding the nymph while it floats through the water column. I've never believed that. This technique can certainly be used as “at distance” fishing. Most of it is about line control.
According to your "About" tab description, you're in the east/northeast. I fish mainly in the west/midwest (MT., WY., UT., CO., S.D., N.D., MN., IA., NE., etc.) but it doesn’t matter; the same applies for most water.
Thank you, sir, for addressing this with some intelligence… well-spoken, articulate, knowledge, actual experience, and more.
New subscriber, with the bell.
Appreciate it, Truth Seeker! Totally agree, same applies almost everywhere. Thank you for the kind words. And thanks for the sub!
@@OldDominionTroutBum Yes sir. You're welcome. Keep 'em coming, when you have time and you're in the mood to record.
Hi Corey. Thanks for all the great content. Also enjoyed seeing you with Derrick on Instagram live a few weeks back. Could you clear somethings up for me? When you say you want to fish 25 ft out....that's from your body right? Not the rod tip? Just trying to get a better feel for how much of your leader is out of the rod tip. And would you include the tippet length as part of that length or would you stop at the end of the sighter, assuming the tippet is essentially directly below the sighter. Trying to practice casting in the back yard with my newly acquired used T and T 1133 from Upcountry (thanks Torrey). Right now I have a 18ft of 12lb amnesia, to 3 ft of 0x transition, to 18 inches of 3x connected to my euro line as my leader set up. Dialing in where that euro line to leader is physically so I can have a good reference when I'm on the water. Sorry that was long winded. Any guidance is appreciated.
Glad you enjoy the content! When I say 25ft out-it is from my body.
The length of my leader, including tippet is approx 27-28ft (23 ft to the tippet ring, the another approx 4ft (more or less...of tippet). This is what I use on my 10' 9" T&T.
What you can to do is go in your yard and mark 20, 25, 30ft then make your cast. Make sure you hold your rod at the stopping position. This way it's easy to see where you euro line is in your rod.
Hope this helps.
Thanks so much for watching and good luck to you.
Much appreciated these tips!!!
Glad they help, Kris. Tight lines to you!
Great Thanks next on my list.
Great advice and really help me understand the cast much better
Thank you 👍🏻
Glad it helps, Scott. Good luck with it!
Great insight and explanation!
Apparently you are a real good teacher as well as Fisherman. I'm so jealous lol.
I will continue to watch and rewatch your videos so please keep them coming!
Had beautiful day out on the Beaverkill this week. Even caught a few Trout!
And 2 of them were on nymphs!
Your tips definitely helped.
Thank you again for your time and help
Thanks, Anthony. Appreciate it! Glad you has some success on the Beaverkill. Love that place. I’ll keep ‘em coming. Thanks for watching and tight lines!
Thanks so much for the great information and demonstration of rod control. I really appreciate all of your videos. Keep up the good work.
Glad it helps, Tony. Appreciate you watching. I’ll keep ‘em coming. Tight lines to you!
Great info! I had watched your videos previously, being a serious bass fisherman I get the line management aspects right away and this helped me right off the bat!!! I’ve been basically euro nymphing with my 4wt for wild brookies for several years and that helped with this…
Awesome to hear, Berks. Glad it helped! Tight lines and continued success!
Thank you. I picked up a lot of information.
Glad it helped, Tom. Tight lines to you!
Thanks Cory! Great tutorial! I’ll get it figured out
Awesome, Bill! Good luck!
That's an interesting take for sure versus just adding in a tag...I'll have to see which I like better....👍🎣🎣🎣
Not sure I’m following you, Berks. Did you comment on the right video??
Oh sorry about that, that should have been on the dropper tag video....I had moved on to this one sooner than I thought....I find ending with the loop and then just
Cutting it interesting. A different take on what I've seen....
Haha. No problem. The loop will work for you. Appreciate you watching.
Thanks for the great info. Your right , not a lot of info about on making the correct cast. We are back in lock down in New Zealand so I have plenty of time to get out on the back lawn and practice your technique. Cheers
Appreciate you watching Hayden. Hope your lock down doesn’t last too long for you. But you are right, time for some lawn practice! Tight lines and cheers Mate!
Great video, I think that a lot of people will find it helpful! I like how you explained how you were keeping tension and control throughout the cast into the start of the drift, it isn't called contact nymphing for no reason! I was going to do a euro casting video as well but I think I have some other ideas to put in there as well.
Appreciate it Justin! You definitely have the cast down pat. Looking forward to your ideas. Tight lines!
STELLAR video sir, opened my eyes and I hope it helps a lot of other people! 🤙🏻
Really appreciate it Robbie! Glad I could help!
Great video Cory. Thanks for the tips. I have to put them to work....on to part 2
Appreciate it! Thanks for watching, Frank.
Very very helpful video. I’ll be out tomorrow and trying out these techniques for sure. Hopefully my lobbing days are over
Good to hear. Just keep practicing and it will all come together.
Well done Corey! Thanks sharing your knowledge
Thank you Big O. Appreciate it!
This was helpful. Thank you.
Glad it was, Jason. Tight lines to you.
Thanks for a very helpful video, now going to watch Part 2. Also love your fly tying videos, love how you break every step down👍
Thanks so much, John. Glad they are helping. Appreciate you watching and tight lines to you!
Just wanted to tell you Thanks! I tied my first perdigones today. I had to start over on one fly twice. The material is so fragile. Tied a green one and a quill perdigone. Maybe I put a little too much black wing case. I ordered Gulff and the sent Loon. Thank again Corey.
Nice, Jim! A little more time on the vice and you will have them down. Just remember…less is more with varnish, Gulff, UV resin, etc…
Great informative video Corey ! Casting isn’t one of my strong points , although after a few minutes on the water, I kind of find my rhythm! Love the series, and looking forward to seeing what’s up next ! Good job buddy 👍
Thanks Antonio! Appreciate you watching as always bud! Hope you have found some cold water to fish!
Excellent; and this is why I have subscribed and recommended your channel to my brother…nice level of detail.
Really appreciate it Mike! Thanks so much!
Awesome content as usual! Might try incorporating a cigar as is typical during your on stream videos. Hitting the back yard tonight.
Haha! I would have had to do closed caption so you could have understood me! Appreciate you watching JB!
Thank you sir. Much appreciated.
Glad it is helpful, Snake.
When I first started watching your videos I knew you were somehow influenced by George Daniel or Joe Humphreys. I've been struggling with this cast and line management technique for quite a while. However, something you said in this video clicked for me. Extending your casting arm really takes your shoulder and elbow out of the equation and makes you depend more on your wrist. My cast is looking pretty good now and I can see where you would be able to cover a lot of water in a short time. Hope you're considering a line management video too.
Definitely influenced by George, Annette! So glad the video helps you. And you are correct, having your arm forward makes the wrist do most of the work. And btw, line management is the next video. Appreciate you watching!
@@OldDominionTroutBum Thanks so much!!
Great job Cory!!!
Appreciate it Scott!
Thanks 🐟👍
You bet!
outstanding !! got to know info on that fishing shirt. looks perfect for a minimalist fly fisherman
Thank you, Dave. It’s a SIMMS shirt. Unfortunately they don’t make it anymore.
Loved this! I do wish I could see how far back your flies go behind you or to the side. Almost like a river shot that’s zoomed out. When you finish down stream you pop it up and cast back up, just not sure what those flies are doing exactly.
Thanks, Jaron. That's tough to do with a one-man show. But it's unfolding and tracking just like any other fly cast. If I have out 25 feet of line, then 25ft is fulling extending behind me so the bugs can load the rod. As you practice, just watch your bugs fully extend behind you before you go forward. Just wait and be patient with it. Most of the problems I see are people that rush everything. Wait....almost feel uncomfortable with waiting....let the backcast extend, then go forward.
If you watch some of my fishing videos, you'll get an idea of what happens on the forward cast.
Thanks.. lots of good detailed information 👍
Appreciate it, Mike. Thanks for watching!
Would love to see this video with all of the cast in the shot so we can check out what action it has. Cheers
Rob, if you check out some of my other fishing videos-you'll see how the casts unfolds. Hope this helps and thanks so much for watching. Cheers.
That’s exactly me…gonna try that thank you
Good luck to you, Mark. Thanks for watching.
@@OldDominionTroutBum Thank you 🙏. I’ve been trying to figure out what I was doing wrong. Like you say in your video people just kept telling me , you just need to lob it. It’s been driving me crazy. I’ve developed the nasty habit of swinging my whole arm just like you’ve said and not flexing the wrist. So I tried tucking my elbow in and just using my wrist , which was slightly better . Now I know the secret is to have the arm in front and flex the wrist . Thanks for a brilliant explanation 👏👏👏👏
@@markwebster5307 Glad it is helpful, Mark. Keep at it, you will only get better. Tight lines.
Great info, thank you!
Glad it helps, Antti. Tight lines to you!
Nice vid. should help Eura casting them bugz in the wooder!
Glad ya'll found it helpful!
Amazing, thank you so much for this
Appreciate it Ty. Thanks for watching!
Wow Great video instruction Wonderful
Thank you, James. Tight lines to you!
Excellent instructions on Euro Nymphing casting. What fly line are you using in these instructions? Do you use more than one type of fly line when Euro Nymphing ?
Thanks so much! I always use the same setup. You can see it here is the video or description:
ruclips.net/video/_LsHADwel28/видео.html
Appreciate you watching.
This is a great video that needed to be made. Thanks for sharing Corey! Btw, your channel got me to turn on the notifications, which I never do.
Wow Ed, thanks so much! Glad I could help. Appreciate you watching!
Thanks for the video. Devin Olsen has a video titled "Improving Your Euro Nymphing Cast" where he demonstrates a more oval shaped cast, especially for lighter leaders. I'm curious what your thoughts are on that style of casting as compared to what you show in the video. Would appreciate any opinions.
Appreciate you watching, Jack. I’m familiar with Devin’s way and the oval cast clearly works for him. It does work, but you have to time it perfectly so you remain accurate. I used to use his way but was “broke” of the habit by someone who is well know in the sport. The modified traditional cast that I use is super efficient, accurate and versatile. Just keep everything smooth, connected and slow. And, I too use a micro leader of 4x. Hope this helps!
In case others are struggling and find themselves every now and then lobbing again like me, I suggest that you switch for a while to underweight nymphs, just to force yourself to cast properly and get them to the right depth.
Excellent idea, Marc. Appreciate the comment.
Hey Cory, when you say you have 25ft of line out, is that 25ft from the end of the rod to the bug? I believe your preferred leader set up is 18ft of color line to 5ft of sighter with 3 to 5ft of tippet. So with that recipe you wouldn't have any fly line past the tip of the rod. That means your loading your rod without the benefit of any fly line weight. Would that be a correct assumption? I am new to casting a micro leader set up and I'm working on trying to understand the mechanics of the euro cast as you perform it.
Hey William. You are correct. There is no fly line out of the tip of the rod (ever). These rods were built to be loaded by the weight of the flies (even light ones), not the line. If you watch this video here, I talk about the leader in greater detail.
ruclips.net/video/_LsHADwel28/видео.htmlsi=_fJFFH4vXf41x9lZ
Hope this helps.
Hi Cory, I broke the tip on my T&T Contact II yesterday. It's a 10ft9" 3wt. The leader was rapped around the tip so set the rod down and was manipulating the tip to unwrap it and broke off a 2 1/2" piece. I am heart broke and will be sending it in for repair. Are you hearing about these lighter weight rods easily breaking? I should have unwrapped they line from the rod instead of moving the rod tip to unwrap the leader.
@@williamlee2335 William, knock on wood-I’ve never broke a rod tip. Weird things happen, odd angles, weighted nymph hitting, etc….Great thing is they will take care of it.
Good video.
Question: most of the time I’m starting a cast from the end of the drift well downstream of my target.
Can you include a video on how to setup the next cast at the end of a drift?
Appreciate it, Andrew. If you watch my new video: The top 5 things to learn. I actually talk about that.
You need to make sure you have a target in mind after the drift. Square your shoulders to the target and position your flies at the 180 degree mark behind you of your target before you release your forward cast. Hope this helps.
I wish I could meet you and get some lessons!
I can always do a virtual one-on-one session. Check out my website for more details!
www.olddominiontroutbum.com/contact
Cory, you mentioned that sometimes when you false cast you are making adjustments to get your bugs 180’ behind you. What are you doing to make that adjustment. I have noticed that even a slight breeze can change the trajectory of the back cast and therefore affecting the forward cast,
William, picture trying to cast to 12 o'clock. Your backcast needs to be at 6. Now if I want to move to 1 o'clock...I have to make micro movements on each false cast towards to 1 and 7 position.
If a slight breeze is affecting your back cast, you are probably rushing it and losing connection with your bugs. Just slow everything down a bit-wait for the backcast to finish before going forward. This way you won't lose connection. Hope this helps.
Awesome, do you have a video about casting under trees or very close to them ? Thanks
Thanks, Pedro. If you watch this video here, I talk about different types of casts:
ruclips.net/video/oPmcAZZmf-0/видео.htmlsi=z9jEtgNE9IYyWDhZ
I also have a video coming out soon talking about different casting angles. That should be able to help you, as well.
Tight lines.
@@OldDominionTroutBum thank you , would love to understand how to cast in thigh spots Ausência I love fishing small streams but they have heavy vegetation cover ,the kind of cover that holds good fish in the summer
Nice clip! Do you fish for steelhead with style? If so what’s your setup
Thanks, Mike! I don't fish for steelhead, but I do know it will absolutely work for them. I know there are a couple of Euro rods made specifically for them. T&T and Diamondback, for instance.
Thanks for sharing your technique! I find though that false casting with heavy nymphs and a long thin mono leader can be problematic. It causes tangles and requires some serious snap in the cast to propel the flies forward. Personally I find the oval cast with a tuck at the end is way more efficient, accurate, and easier on the arm. It’s all preference though.
Appreciate you watching Mr J! If you have ever watched my fishing videos, you can see that I false cast quite frequently. I also use a 4x micro leader. I don’t have a problem with tangles. Just keeping it smooth and connected is key. I used to used an oval cast, but was broke of that habit by someone who is well known in this sport. Personally, I find this cast is more efficient and far more accurate. I agree with you, it is all preference. Tight lines to you!
@@OldDominionTroutBum You certainly make a strong argument. I’ll give it a try next time I am out and see how it goes. I absolutely agree that anything you can do to get tight to the sighter quickly is important.
Is there a weight limit on the rig for casting this way? Thanks for your teaching!!!
Gustavo, every rod is different, so it is hard to tell you what the limit would be. You can cast as much weight as you want, but you will start losing accuracy and recovery in the rod. This rod, a T&T 3wt, for example, casts really great up to a 3.5mm bead and a 2.5mm dropper. Once you go over that, you will lose some recovery. On the low end, it will cast a single 2.3mm. It is all trial and error to see what YOUR rod can do. But to get the most out of your rod, you have to have sold fundamentals. Hope this helps.
Have you found a minimum single or combined bead weight required to make your cast? I've been practicing with your leader formula, with a 2.7mm bead on a cut hook and find it very hard to straighten out the leader. I will keep practicing. Any further insights into achieving an effective accurate cast?
Hey Marc, I would go to a heavier bead when practicing. (3.3). Once you get that down, you will find it easier with lighter weights. I’m guessing that you may be rushing and losing connection with your fly. Just slow everything down and maintain that connection to throughout the cast from beginning to end.
On your backcast, just wait a little longer (almost until it’s too uncomfortable…thinking it’s too long) before you make you forward cast.
I hope this helps. Let me know.
Another question for you. Would this cast be also used for a micro leader, say, 6 lb? I keep reading about a half oval cast starting low to the water, and then up and over the head. Devin Olson I believe describes a micro cast this way. But a straight up and back cast like you describe seems to work like you describe for my micro leader. And my cast with a 20# mono leader also works pretty well up and back. Thanks much! Toney
Toney, I’m using a micro leader (4x) in this video. Every cast is the same, no matter the leader. I am not a fan of the oval cast at all. If you watch George Daniel-he doesn’t use an oval either.
I’ve done a video on a micro leader and I specifically talk about the common misconceptions about them and also I address the oval cast how it leads to inaccuracy:
ruclips.net/video/_LsHADwel28/видео.html
Obviously it works for Devin, but it is a cast the has to be timed perfectly.
Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
Cory, I noticed many comments on your 10'9" 3-wt T&T. I'm planning on upgrading this year to that rod from a 10' intro rod and was wondering if you are still able to fish steamers and dry droppers or even throw a dry on occasion with that rod?
Hey Jack. I use it all of the time for streamers and dry-droppers. I'll even carry an extra spool with a WF2wt line and throw dries. You will really love this rod. Good luck with it.
Cory, thanks for great Euro casting video! I noticed your reel is a Ross Evolution LTX which is not a "fully caged" reel...i have always been told when Euro fishing you MUST have a fully framed reel? Can you comment on this??? Thanks.
Hey William-Ross build their reels with such tight tolerances, it’s almost like they are caged. You would never have a problem with micro leaders. That being said-Euro specific reels are built with a lot of thought….Full cage, recessed knobs, curved edges, etc….These are always nice to have.
When I did this video, Sage, Galvan, Orvis had yet to even come out with Euro reels.
Appreciate you watching!
Love your videos Corey and also your explanations. One of the things I can't make out properly though and you touch on it in this video about false casting/ repositioning your flies on the back cast. Are you fishing with your fly line out of the rod tip or is this purely the leader.
Thank you. Appreciate the kind words. It is purely my leader that I’m fishing. It is approx 28 feet long to my fly. My fly line never makes it out of my rod, even on a 30 ft cast. Hope this helps and thanks for watching.
@@OldDominionTroutBum brilliant Corey thank you for the explanation. Is your leader level all the same diameter and clear or is it coloured. Do you attach a bi colour sighter or do you use wax to change your depth if needed. You make the casting look so easy I will have to make the effort to slow down my cast. Would be brilliant if you could do a video of your leader set up.
Keep the videos coming they are a pleasure to watch.
Alec ..
top notch
Thank you, Nicolas!
Another fantastic video. I am a beginner and I have be struggling with my cast and getting my sighter line tight. I am going out to the yard to practice right now!
I was wondering if there is a net you suggest? I tried a measure net and the holes were so small it is impossible to use in fast water.
Thank you, Butch! Haha…nothing better than yard practice! I think the best net is a Frabill 18x13. I cut the elastic off the end and make a new loop with paracord. Devin Olsen has a video on how to do it on his channel. Good luck with your casting!
When you say 25’ cast, how much of that is leader? Are you casting level line as well? Great videos. Thanks.
Jake, my main leader to my tippet ring is approx. 24 ft (this is for my 10’9” rod). Then I typically run 4 ft of tippet. So my overall length is in the 28 ft range. I use a level .22mm Euro fly line and always like to keep it within my rod, never letting it go out the top. I like the euro fly line because I have better tactile feel when I am managing my slack. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
When you say your main leader is 24 feet, may I ask how it constructed and what materials?
@@rickbeggs4300 I use approx 18ft of .18mm Pezon & Michel Color Line in floro yellow mono (which is the diameter of 4x) and 5ft of .16mm Pezon & Michel bi-color mono for sighter (which is approx 5x) to the tippet ring. A good substitute for Pezon is Sempe mono.
@@OldDominionTroutBum where do you source your P&M line?
Pecheur out of France or Riversfly out of Spain. It is Pezon & Michel Color Line.
Great information, but what about if you don’t have the room to backcast? Do you advocate for a water load cast in tight areas? But a water load cast doesn’t punch the flies into the water. I’m try to use perdigons with traditional fly line and leader setup, and I am with some success. Trying to have one setup do most styles of fly fishing. Not perfect but it works. Thanks Corey!
Thanks Scott! I use the water load cast a ton. Especially for finesse type casts, getting under low hanging trees, and tight corners with no backcast.
You can deliver your bugs into the water like a tuck cast with the water load if you start with your wrist cocked back and rod tip low to the water….then with the same motion, slide your arm foward and up (low to high) with you rod tip stopping high. Your bugs will will shoot up and arc over and come straight down diving into the water. Hope this makes sense….Joe Humphries uses traditional fly line and he is one of the best to ever do it!! Thanks so much for watching!
Do you sell your Jack Daniel’s flies ? Really like your videos! I am a new fly fisherman and just started to have success nymphing but I have much to learn. I live in Northern VA but spend summers in Montana and Idaho mainly dry fly fishing for Cutthroat but I need to expand my game to cover subsurface action.
Hey Kenneth. I don't sell them....They are sold in a shop in Australia.
I have a few videos that can help. One is the "Top 5 things to learn". This is what you need to focus on.
Spending your summers in MT and ID sounds amazing. Tight lines to you.
would love to see your cast from a view where we could see the actual line.
John, if you check some of my fishing videos out, you’ll be able to see. Thanks for watching.
This is so well explained, but it would be helpful to visualize loop shape. With weighted bugs, is this more of an oval (belgian) cast where the bug stays under the loop shape, or is it like a dry fly cast where the fly is above the loop as it uncoils?
Appreciate it Stephen! I would love to show the loops on this video, but filming with just me and an iPhone is tough. If you look at any of my fishing videos you will see tons of video with my casts and see how the flies are delivered. I don’t use the Belgian cast…it certainly works, but it is inaccurate if you don’t have the timing down perfect. This style was taught to me by someone really well known. It’s highly accurate and the bugs come over your rod on the backcast and forward cast just like a traditional dry. You just need to a use more wrist and less arm and don’t rush….just stay nice and smooth.
@@OldDominionTroutBum Thanks! That helps. I'm so used to using a "helicopter" cast with heavy streamers that I've been using that as well with weighted nymphs, so this is an eye opener. Also, explaining why you cast with your arm extended also was an "aha" moment. Sure appreciate the care you put into your teaching...same with the way you explain how and why you tie your flies. Keep em coming, really great videos.
Great video! How do you deal with obstructions behind you? I fish a lot of brush and tree lined banks.
Appreciate it, Nathan! Check out this video. Maybe it will help. I specifically talk about that:
ruclips.net/video/oPmcAZZmf-0/видео.html
You really should consider setting up a Patreon account I would gladly contribute for your content.
Really awesome of you to say. I have thought about it so I’ll let you know!
Well done, what is your source for P&M line?
Pecheur out of France or Riversfly out of Spain. It’s P&M Color Line
Thank you Corey! So, when you are actually on the water fishing , do you (on average) have about 20ft of the fly line out of the rod tip plus the 25 ft to 30 ft of micro leader as well??
Beaker, it's more about how far away from the target I am. It all varies based on the conditions.
I am all about practicing in the yard. I still do it all the time. When you mark spots in your yard (20 ft, 30 ft, etc...), you can make that cast, stop and put you rod down with the stretched out line-then measure the length. You will then know how much line it takes out of the rod to get to certain distances.
If you watch my micro leader video-you will see that my euro fly line rarely makes it out of the top of the rod (only on the longest of casts it will).
Appreciate you watching and hope this helps.
@@OldDominionTroutBum Thank you for clearing that up! Do you think that your 10’9” 3 wt euro rod makes your casting a micro leader easier compared to a 10’ 3wt rod? Appreciate your help!
@@Vectorp47 I use both the 10'9" 2wt and 3wt, as well as the 10ft 2wt. They all cast micro leaders great.
The 2wts do a better job with lighter bugs (say a single 2.5), but when you have a 2.8 or 3.0-they all are in the same league.
Great videos. Thank you.
What reel do you recommend for euro nymph?
Appreciate it, Snake. There are a lot to choose from and it depends on your budget...but I prefer reels with a closed cage made for Euro Nymphing. Sage ESN, Galvan GEN, and Orvis Hydros Euro are all great ones.
Great video! Very good tips. Do you have a favorite line wt for euro style fishing with your 3 wt? I fish a 10’ 4 wt and have played around with everything from 2-5wt.
Thanks Chris! I use Cortland euro fly line with the braided core. It would work well with your 10’ 4wt. It is for straight nymphing only. Appreciate you watching!
Hey Corey I have a question if I’m casting and don’t feel the tug on the back cast could I be using to light of a nymph
Perhaps, Josh. But I suspect you aren't waiting long enough for your bugs to fully extend behind you. You will feel it. My suggestion would be to watch your back cast fully extend, I bet you'll feel it at the end.
@@OldDominionTroutBum thank you so much for all you do to help the fly fishing community I know just from this past Sunday on Penns creek from watching your videos I was more successful and more confident in what I was doing and put some fish in the net
@@joshrebert4364 Happy to help, Josh. And congrats on your day at Penns!
In the market for a reel for the T&T you're using in this video... may I ask what Ross (to my eye) that is?
Justin, this is a Ross Evolution LTX 4/5.
@@OldDominionTroutBum you're the man... a couple follow ups...
1. I presume that's the 10'9" 3wt contact 2?
2. Are you aware how much weight your backing/line/etc lands at? For example the reel is listed at 4.29oz empty, and I'd estimate my "total line" weight is usually around 1oz, so I'd presumably land around 5.29oz. Do you happen to know what your setup lands at?
Justin, it is on my 10ft 9in 3wt. I’m not sure if the entire weight after the line is on, but it balances it just fine. I actually use a Galvan GEN 3.5 more with the 3wt. You can easily balance the 1093 with total weight of 4.8-5.5oz or so. A lot of guys like it heavier, but it works perfectly fine for me.
@@OldDominionTroutBum perfect! Thanks so much for the info!
I am now converting to your method from the oval cast. I have the same rod as you. I started with some 4x Sempe and followed your formula. My accuracy is awful. I don’t think my back cast is unrolling well. Any pointers? Should I go back up to a 10# but and work down? Or maybe increase the weight. I know it is hard to diagnose without seeing. I will keep after working on this cast method tho. I see it is a better way. Ty for your guidance
Nathan, the oval cast is highly inaccurate. Without seeing, I’m guessing that you are not allowing your line to extend all the way on your back cast. You have to wait long enough where it feels almost uncomfortable. When I’m out with friends and they ask for help, I’m always saying “wait…wait…wait” in the backcast. That is the biggest mistake I see. No need to rush it. I actually would suggest weighting up to a 3.3 bead until your really get the feel down. The line has nothing to do with the cast, it’s all in the rod. Go out in the yard and practice. Hope this helps. Good luck.
@@OldDominionTroutBum ❤
One more question do you usually have enough fly-line out so that it is completely out of the rod tip. Or are you able to load the rod with the just the leader out of the rod tip and the fly line maybe half way up the rod? In other words does the rod load better with some line out? Many thanks.
Nathan, check out my micro leader video.
ruclips.net/video/_LsHADwel28/видео.html
I talk about my set up and answer that question in the video. 90% of the time the fly line is never out of the rod. Euro rods were designed to be loaded by weighted nymphs, not fly line.
Hope this helps.
@@OldDominionTroutBum Ah, yes had watched that before. But now I get it. Thanks for your patience.
Apologies if it's been asked, I scanned through the comments. On the back cast, are you waiting until you feel what Devin Olsens describes as the doink (flies straighening out) to start the forward cast or is that already too late?
Stephen, in my video, I say you will feel a slight "tug". That is what Devin means by the "doink". You will not be too late once you feel it. As a matter of fact, once you feel it, if you wait for a smidge more it will be better. I tell people to wait on the back cast. Almost wait until it is uncomfortable...then go forward. Almost all poor casts are because people rush and do not allow their bugs to extend fully behind them.
The best thing you can do is practice in your yard and watch your forward cast AND your backcast. Watch it as you feel the tug and you will see that even if you wait for another second, you will be perfectly fine. The key is everything needs to be smooth and in control.
Hope this helps.
@@OldDominionTroutBum Thank you for clarifying, wanted to ensure "tug" and "doink" were the same. I feel the tug is throwing me off sometimes thinking that the cadence is wrong, especially with heavily weighted flies.
I feel I need to smooth out the cast more and maybe not emphasize such hard stops. Sometimes I really wish i had video of myself... I definitely need more time on the lawn. Appreciate the help and videos, sir!
I always pick up a new tip when watching your video multiple times.
Watch, apply-repeat…
@@Edgemoore7 Glad it is helpful. Tight lines to you!
So when you’ve got 40 feet of line out is your sighter up out of the water or floating on top of the water ?
Thank you
Robert, your sighter should never hit the water, unless you want to float it to suspend a nymph or you are “dipping” it to let your nymphs go deeper. It needs to be a tight connection.
Hello, what about when you dont have the room for the 180 degree ? Say there are trees behind you?
Thanks
Jim, if you watch this video:
ruclips.net/video/oPmcAZZmf-0/видео.html
I talk about it in the 1st part. Hope this helps and appreciate you watching.
When you say practice a 20 foot cast. Are you saying 20 feet from you or 20 feet of line out? The latter is closer to 30 feet from you including the length of the rod.
20 feet from you. Appreciate you watching, John.
Aye Cory for a beginner how much line should I have out from the rod tip to start my cast ..I know your video your starting with 25 ft ...so is that amt of line I should be starting with from my reel or from the rod tip
Bubba-don’t overthink it. Just stand 20ft away from a target in the grass and try to hit it with a straight line from the grass to the rod tip (make sure the rod tip is on a fishing position). That is how much line you should have out. After a while, it just becomes muscle memory.
Thanks for all your help ...I will give it 100% try .
What about lobbing when brush is near. I find my self watching videos them getting to where I’m at n it’s fast deep n close to vegetation ?
Not really following your question, Pat. But everything is situational, you should always be casting, not lobbing. Even a bow and arrow cast will deliver your bugs deliberately.
This probably explains why people are using heavier beads than they need: because their casting stroke is garbage.
I certainly was guilty of this when I first started-- I couldn't get contact with anything less than a 4.0 on the anchor-- mostly because my flies were hitting the water horizontally instead of vertically. If you stop the rod tip high, as in a tuck cast, the flies plunge into the water and get down fast. Then you can trade out that 4.0 bead for a 3.0 bead and attract more fish.
Lighter line also allows lighter flies to sink faster with a proper cast.
I agree… most people use too much weight. That’s why I don’t like the term “anchor” fly. It has a heavy connotation. If you learn the proper fundamentals of the cast, you can get lighter bugs to dive down pretty quick. Appreciate you watching!
Are you casting the fly line and leader or only a long leader?
Just the leader. You can see this video of my set up.
ruclips.net/video/_LsHADwel28/видео.html
Appreciate you watching.
Excellent stuff! One question: When you say 20 or 25 foot cast, I assume you mean a distance from your hand, correct? I don't think you mean that a 20 foot cast is 20 feet from the end of the fly rod, correct? Thanks! Toney
Exactly, Toney. 20 feet from the hand. Appreciate you watching. Tight lines!
Corey. What reel do you use with your T&T 10’ 9” 3 wt? Thanks
Dale, it’s a Ross Evolution LTX 4/5.