5 Invaluable Tips for Towing a Travel Trailer // I Wish I Knew These Tips Early On
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
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Some very good tips here.
Gas vs Diesel. Totally agree with you. The simple fact is that the diesel truck will be more expensive to buy up front, own and operate, and will perform worse on resale than the gas truck. I’ve looked at multiple used car valuation sites and on average a diesel is going to be worth $6k more than gas. But you paid at least $10k for the engine which means you just lost an extra $4000. You buy a diesel because you either need that level of power or you just want it.
Tongue weight. You’re spot on. My advice to anyone shopping is to assume that your actual tongue weight will be 15% of the trailers GVWR. This is conservative but it will help to prevent people from ending up overloaded.
My additions.
1. Watch your rear end swing when turning. The trailer pivots at its axels which are in the middle of the unit which means that if the rear of the trailer swings out beyond the path of the wheels. So if you’re in a tight campground and try and go hard right before clearing the utility box in the middle of the campsite the rear of the trailer will hit it.
2. A persistent myth is that if you’re just towing on flat ground say maybe an hour or two down the highway you can get away with less truck vice say towing in the Rockies. Going up hills power and gearing is what matters and 1/2 ton and HD gas engine trucks all make pretty comparable power. The HD truck engine though does have to move a heavier truck. What about downhill? Yes the HD trucks have bigger brakes but again they have to slow a heavier truck as well. Also your goal downhill is to stay off the brakes anyway. The most challenging environment to tow a trailer is at highway speeds on interstates or two lane roads. This is because as your speed goes up the trailer becomes more subject to being moved around by the wind or other vehicles like the semi blowing by you going the other way on a two lane road. At speed is where most people get in trouble and that’s where you really want the stability of a HD truck with a bigger trailer. The key here is that if someone is telling you that your trailer needs a HD truck to go cross country or to steep mountains or whatever you need it all the time.
3. Going downhill. Your goal is to stay off the brakes as much as possible descending a grade. Get slowed down and get the truck into a lower gear and let it coast down the hill that way. Yes your gas engine might be turning 4500RPM or more but that’s OK. Let it do the work and if you get fast enough that the transmission upshifts that’s when you get on the brakes to get some speed off and get back into that lower gear.
4. If you feel like you’re getting trailer sway grab the trailer brake controller and activate it. Activating trailer brakes alone will straighten out a swaying trailer.
5. You’re a LOT heavier than you’re used to being and your stopping distance has just increased accordingly. Allow more distance to the car in front of you.
Good tips I think. All good information.
If you asked me to add a top tip I would say “tires”.
To safely tow a large, heavy trailer you need to learn about tires. Tire load ratings, type, inflation, age and condition.
Great video as always, Cory. Thoughts:
1. My first and only TT is 37ft. Sink or swim, I guess...
2. Buy a Weigh Safe.
3. If you're only towing your camper 20 days a year, gas is the way to go.
4. If you don't already have a truck, pick your trailer first. Then, shop the truck that will handle it. PS: the right answer is a heavy duty truck. They're designed and built to work. Towing your camper is what it's built to do.
5. Towing is fun! I get the itch during the winter when my camper is just sitting...
I also have a weigh safe WDH/Sway Control. It can be a pain with the initial setup & at times dialing in the DTW, but it gives a smooth and comfortable ride and a feeling of confidence.
Wanted to share something I found a while back. I found a research paper (I forget the journal now) that investigated and ranked the causes of trailer instability and sway. They used an adjustable trailer where they could change everything from weight to tongue weight, etc. The two biggest variables were tongue weight and placing weight mostly over the axles. The next, but less important, was tire stiffness. So, put your stuff over the axles as much as you can and just far enough forward to get your 15% tongue weight. This made our trailer a lot more stable. Our only limitation is that I can’t store as much stuff over the axles as I’d like, and it ends up in the front pass-through storage.
I’m from the UK, so our towing experiences are different (I.e. smaller) than yours, but it’s interesting to compare. I liked the last tip especially. I’d say, when towing, if you’re unsure, just go slower, take your time. And plan things so that you aren’t in a hurry, and you have time to spare. After all, if you’re on vacation, who wants to be rushing, and putting themselves under pressure?
Great content as always. As you foretold, I will challenge you (slightly) on the Diesel vs gas statement in so far as I don't think there is a blanket answer either way. I would agree with you that most weekend warriors with a 10-12K travel trailer and 3/4 ton truck will do just fine with gas. That said, it comes down to frequency of towing, distance of towing and terrain covered. The person in Kansas that never does more than 150 miles is not the same as someone in western Montana who may go 700 miles, 4 or more times per year. Yes gas will get it done, but not to the same comfort level (in my experience). And that doesn't even touch the ease of fueling while towing vs a gas rig. Again, I do not think there is a one size fits all, but I think there are about 4 questions that for me decide what is better for each individual.
I think also to take into account is the strength and rigidity of a diesel truck vs. a gasser. A 3/4 ton truck is the same diesel or gas. But the longevity of the engine and power train is what should be considered. Great video Corey!
@@bkdexter79 I've had both & prefer gas. Remember your load cap is reduced by 800# - 1k # for diesel vs gas as well. Currently rig F350 7.3L gas 3.73 rear towing 8400# trailer. It was $10k less at purchase. MPG's towing is only about 1-1.5 mpg's worse than a diesel + no DEF. Cost of fuel is $0.50 -$1 less per gal as well. Routine maintenance is much lower cost. I have no issues going up or down any hills here in the PNW as well as our trips across the Rockies & AZ via CA. Newer gas engines are not that much less (some even more) than older diesels. Frames & transmissions are the same either way.
@@herb7877 If I may ask, what are your average towing MPGs? I've got a Ram 2500 Cummins with a similar weight TT in the south Puget sound area, and I find 11-12 to be my normal if I stay in western WA within about 1000 ft of sea level. When I cross to eastern WA that gets closer to 10 and when I've gone to Wyoming, the Dakotas and east of the continental divide, I'm closer to 9.5
@@wgreenjr81 towing I have averaged 10.3 over ~12k miles. The best has been ~13 on two different trips, worse was ~7 with a good sized head & side wind in the Columbia Gorge and Hwy 10 in AZ on one trip. Very seldom empty but 13 around town, 17-17.5 on the freeway.
@@herb7877 Glad you found what works for you. I'll never tell another man how to spend his money, but I don't see myself ever going to a gasser. I know you see it otherwise, but that small increase of fuel economy means better range between stops to say nothing of the 22-25 mpg as my daily. But well beyond the fuel economy is the factors like an exhaust brake that may not be as critical with an 8-10k trailer but is great fore piece of mind, as well as the simple longevity of the engine. What we haul is standard duty for a Diesel, for a gas, as much as they may be improved, it is still severe duty and it just will not last as long. And when it comes time to sell it, I'll get at bare minimum, 7-8k of that initial 10k extra back, likely a lot more. Again, I'm not telling anyone what they should do, all I know is when I looked at all the variables, there was only one option. You saw it differently and that's why they sell both. Here's to many happy miles for both of us.
After dealing with chronic issues with an F-150 3.5 V6, I went with a 6.7 Diesel. Also the 6 speed auto is far more reliable than the fussy 10 speed Ford has. Diesels do have their quirks but so far I am happy with the switch. On long trips, I can use the Diesel stops to fuel up instead of squeezing into some tiny gas stations. I'm still a fan of gasoline engines, but for now at least, I am all in on Diesel.
Glad to hear from someone that has had both. Your remarks are similar to mine. Most trucks oe tanks are around 36 gallons, and diesel fuel has approx 25-30 percent more energy per gallon. 36x10 mpg means I can usually make an entire drive to camp on one tank of diesel. If I was on gas, 36x7 mpg = 252 miles which means I’ll need to pull into some tiny town gas station to fill up and deal with idiots around the pumps. No thanks, I’d rather go find diesel while we are at our destination and have a full tank before heading to the next camp spot. And- diesel can safely be carried in an auxiliary tank, further extending range. I carry about 70 gallons of diesel and so frequently we don’t even fuel for one round trip.
(I’m towing a 35’ fifth wheel).
@@chucknSCMy F150 XLT has the 3.5 Ecoboost with the towing package. Larger gas tank means I rarely stop for fuel.
I agree with your analysis of gas vs diesel. 45+ years of towing RV's & boats. Went thru the same progression of trucks. F150 now a F350 gasser. Just as a comp.... '21 F350 7.3L 3.73 rear & tow a 8400# tt. I would go to 4.30 if I towed over 12k though. Not going to have another diesel. Friend with diesel on a 4400 mile trip got 1-1.5 better mpg & had to pay for DEF & fuel was 50 cents to a $1 more per gal. Paid $10k less for the gasser as well. Too many emission issues with diesel now a days as well. He does have more torque going up hills, but I have no issues stay right behind him. I rarely use my brakes going down any long hills. Going down the Siskique's or Grapevine I stab them a couple of times. I average ~10.3 towing driving 62-64mph thru the hills & mtns in the PNW.
Totally agree. I have a 2020 F250 with the 7.3 gasser. I tow a 9100# 5th wheel (I weighed it). I had a 1999 F350 with the 7.3 Powerstroke. Going up I5 north of Yreka from California into Oregon I'd do that grade at 43 mph. The first time I took the same trailer up that grade with my 2020 F250, I did that same grade at 60 mph, no problem. I also love the tow/haul mode for braking. I rarely use the brakes down that same 6.5% grade.. Yes, a diesel has far more torque, but as the video explains, 3/4 ton gas trucks are more than capable of towing just fine. Now, if one has a triple axel or a double axel loaded toy-hauler, that may be different. I love my 7.3 Godzilla motor.
All great tips for TT. One thing I wish I knew more about when we first got our TT, was exacty what you have higlighted on your channel...that is the hitch and WD system. I was so focused on the TT details and specs, I literally didn't even consider the hitch and WD system. That system is just as important as the camper. Luckily, my dealer set me up with the Equalizer system and it worked flawlessly with my Suburban. So, thanks for showing and showcasing the WD systems like you have.
I appreciate you watching!!
A word of caution from someone who learned the worst way; I’m not sure it’s all about length either. We had towed a 25 foot camper for 6 years with no issues whatsoever. We bought a new camper, 20 ft, slightly heavier over all and still within our (now previous) guidelines, and it swayed and jack knifed on our second drive, first trip. Our equalizer wound up with one bar bent and in the middle of the road. Needless to say we aren’t going to tow more than 1/2 our allowance and the next hitch is a pro pride. We had probably the most minimal amount of “stuff” we’d had in years because we had gotten rid of a bunch when we sold the old one. Maybe we were just tail heavy somehow? I still don’t know, but will be extra cautious moving forward.
Just my 2 cents on my experiences: 1. Every combination handles different. There is a sweet spot on this combination; at a certain speed you can feel the trailer get a little looser and that should tell you that's as fast as I want to tow. 2. The part most fear is backing in and to this day every once in awhile I struggle, especially blind side backing. Slow and easy it`s not a race. Pull far enought a head to get your trailer started on the angle. You should have already pictured in your mind the angle and where you want your tires to hit the mark you picture. It ok to get out and look several time if needed or even to pull out and try again. I never seen anyone just give up and drive away, you will get it in. Just a note; I see folks from time to time with spring hanger problems. There is a lot of side way force on really sharp cornering, i know you have seen your double axle wheels looking out of line, Pull forward and straight back to take the pressure off. I try not to do sharp back ins in one motion but several smaller ones. My trailer pulls great but one March day I hit a preety stiff cross wind with gust; while normal towing 65 to 67 mph this day I was down to 50mph because that`s what the rig was telling me. I didn`t like that feeling. I since added air bags to the truck and only add 10 to 12 lbs to stiffen up the rear end and sumo spring to the trailer. I just thought the trailer towed great before it even tows better now even in the cross winds. My main point I guess is to let your setup tell you how fast or slow you need to tow in the condition your in at the time.
100% agree with you on the gas vs diesel argument for travel travels.
I’m new to towing, this past summer has been the first time I towed anything.
For me, after doing lots of research online, the two most important things I consider now are the weights of all things and having a good weight distribution hitch.
I spent time understanding both towing and payload capacity of my truck, and I wanted to make sure that the RV we acquired was well under the maximum capacity of my tow vehicle.
For WDH’s, I also did the research and ended up picking one that I felt would do well, and so far I’ve been pleased.
There’s a lot of great content on RUclips (your channel included), and I loved doing my research ahead of time.
I had a 1/2 ton gas it was set up with max tow package love the truck pull a 8000lb TT never had any issues. Then purchased a 3/4 ton it is a diesel but was more impressed at how much more stable the 3/4 ton is than the half I think for the bigger Travel Trailers 3/4 ton is the way to go gas or diesel the choice is yours
Very good advice and tips. Great video!
Our 2023 Godzilla has been fantastic towing our GD 2800bh around 6-8 times a year. It’s a fantastic engine. Zero complaints.
Great to hear. I bought a '23 F350 7.3 in anticipation of getting a 2800bh sometime in the next 1-2 years. Advice on a WDH?
I'll give you a big AMEN to #1 tip. I have a 2016 F150 with the 5.0 engine. I was pulling a 26 foot Grand Design and the rig pulled descent. Then we sold that camper and went to a 28.5 foot Grand Design only 600 pounds heavier and 2.5 feet longer. WOW I'm shocked on the difference on the semi vertex affecting the rig. To keep it safe I have to slow down about 5- 10 mph. My mileage did shoot up about 3 mpg so it's a good trade off. I've heard after 26 foot you need to have a heavier truck. I can testify to that . PS I also went to an Anderson bumper pull hitch for this new rig. Man that hitch works great for us.
Do you have a video on proper way to set up a WDH?
Tongue weight is more important than most people realize. Sometimes less tongue weight is not great!
Agree with you on the tips--ESPECIALLY the gas vs diesel. Diesel is great if you need it or can afford it BUT, There are gas engines that will do all you need. I run the 7.3 godzilla and it is great. It saved me $11,000 at purchase, fuel is MUCH cheaper as is maintenance and it gets about the same mpg as my buddies diesel when towing.
I agree with you on the gas truck I have a 6.6 Chevy Silverado 2500 and it doesn’t know the trailer is behind it, and the tongue weight your right mine said 760 and when I loaded it I got 1000 pounds of tongue weight and if you set up your hitch it’s no problem good video
Safe travels!
Just took our sixth trip with our and our first TT and the only issue I have is finding gas stations that are an easy in and out and have room at the pumps. I had always assumed (incorrectly) that these big truck stops would have some gas pumps that were truck friendly. The ones we found were diesel only.
My tip would be is to look at the weather forecast pulling with the wind or into the wind does not prepare you for when you are pulling crosswind if projected wind gust are over 20 mph I don't go. It's not worth the risk of having a blow over and losing everything.
I have driven semi with 53 ft trailers and almost had 3 blow overs and believe me I don't know why I didn't have a blow over.
Thank you for your channel and all your tips, insights, and knowledge about RVs.
I appreciate you watching!!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge/experience!!
So my big learning points- don’t try to make the half ton do more than it reasonably can. The 3/4 ton does such a dramatically better job, and it is not a constant worry about payload limits. I towed my 2600 RB for three years with a half ton, but needed to watch payload constantly. With the 3/4 ton, I just dial it in with the Weigh Safe and don’t worry about payload any more. I weigh it once a year loaded for a long trip just to make sure we are not overweight. We have never been close. We used Equalizer for three years, then moved to Weigh Safe based on the outstanding reviews from Cory. Too many new folks ( like I once was) listen to the eager salesman and discover they need a bigger truck.
I use a F350 diesel short bed to tow my 25' Airstream. Truck was actually bought to tow my larger, much heavier boat with the Airstream purchase not even a thought. One thing I can say towing my boat is there is a difference between a long bed versus the short. I can feel the boat now. Anyway I added Torklifts Stable-loads which essentially puts the rear overload springs into play quicker or all the time. This has allowed me to just tow straight on the ball without weight distribution/anti-sway. I have yet to experience any sway even in strong winds while towing fairly fast. Makes the whole set up to tow much easier.
I had a gasser 3/4 ton. I now have a diesel. Why? Because I wanted one. That said I thoroughly enjoy having a diesel when towing. So much more enjoyable and the wife agrees. 10th gear all day long. Not ad much shifting and high rpm time on grades.
For me I love it. I am fine with the added maintenance and fuel cost. The mileage improvement offsets the fuel cost for me.
Great video.
Worth noting. The newer gassers have 10-speed transmissions which really helps with the high revving rpms. The extra gears keep you in the powerband without having to tach 4500rpm+. My truck rarely exceeds 3500rpm on 5-6° grades.
Agreed. My gasser was a '21. Still more busy for my towing than the diesel. Not an issue at all. Handled our TT easily. I just enjoy towing with the diesel more. My brother in law is planning on his first SD next year. I told him to just get the gasser after talking over the pros and cons. The 7.3L Godzilla with the 10R140 is a great powertrain in my opinion.
@@flyermarkbig465definitely. Due to EPA regulations the diesels simply aren’t worth it anymore to average user unless a person is towing over 10k regularly. Otherwise you’ll never know the difference.
Weight Distribution hitch set up is key. I took your advice last year and switched to a WeighSafe Middleweight hitch. It was a little pricey but your discount helped...thanks!!! I will say that switch made a night and day difference compared to my old set up. I'm towing a little long with my Tundra pulling a 30ft GD Transcend. The Middleweight hitch is great when it is locked in right...much more predictable and in control in windy conditions.
One more note on WeighSafe....it hasn't been smooth sailing the whole year with that hitch. Lots of issues with the scale guage fluid leaking out. Had the scale repaired three times, then two new head units for same reason. I will say that company stood behind their product the whole way and were great in working with me. They finally put a redesigned scale guage on and it seems to be holding up. I stuck with them even through the issues because it tows so dang good!
I’m glad to hear they took care of you!!
Great tips, thanks man
I appreciate you watching!
Just bought my first camper, had no idea the TW they posted was without batteries and propane tanks! They should have to list it "As sold"
Agreed on gas. Yes a few times on some big hills I thought about how a diesel would be better at that moment. But the cost difference is so huge that I couldnt justify a diesel. But getting gas with a 36 ft trailer can be a nightmare; there are not enough Flying J out there.
I noticed there about 150 miles apart your good
Gasser is the way to go unless you’re full timer traveling 1000 miles a week cross country or out west above sea level and 6-8% grades everywhere you go
The possibility of emissions breakdown does not make it worth wild for the Casual RV’er.
The other thing is do your homework on a Hitch.
Unlike Cory, who tested a bunch, I did a bunch of research at the time to buy the best bang for my buck WDH.
What an idiot.
lol
I ended up with a Hensley Arrow set up and I’m here to say… was the best investment for RV I’ve ever made.
Been a Fan of the channel for a long long time and as always we thank you for taking the time to bring your honesty to the RV world.
We appreciate you being here!
Just recently purchased a E4 equalizer. I’m still adjusting it. I have a Jayco with a 29.5 coupler height. Before I got the E4 I tried the Anderson I gave them all my information they told me it would work and after all there setting I was 2.5” nose down. So it went back. So with the E4 we went back and forth and then I was 2” nose down but with theirs I was able to but on a longer shank. However when I went up 1 1/2” my tongue weight and I couldn’t go over 55mph without swaying. Now I’m working on adding more tongue weight without going over my payload.
Used to own a 25' GD Imagine XLS 21BHE and now full time in a 39' Jayco Eagle 312BHOK and I can attest 100% that length is extremely important to how much sway you get. So I was pretty worried about this when I switched. However, on this new Jayco, we have the Dexter Tow Assist and WOW! It really works to mitigate sway. The new trailer tracks straight and tows with much less stress than the tiny, light 25' trailer I had before. I do have a friction sway control installed for added safety. However, I forgot to tighten it one time in heavy winds (40 MPH gusts) and could literally see the trailer immediately straighten itself out as soon as any sway began to occur. I won't purchase another larger travel trailer without it!
Good to hear!!
Just like you said, towing a heavy utility trailer such as gravel or equipment is different than towing a travel trailer. The travel trailer has a taller center of gravity making it more tippy from winds and also I notice every bump in the road including major highways (in Canada). The tip on manufacturer hitch weight being much more than stated is good to know. Thanks for posting the video
Gas is Great indeed!
I also agree on dialing in the WDH.
I have a diesel powered Ram 3500 long bed dually, and never once said "I sure wish I had less truck." I also don't need a WD hitch for my 10k lb TT. That said, it's worth mentioning that if you're someone that shops for a "just enough" truck, the gas power option increases your payload by around 500 lb. For some odd reason, nobody has pointed that out far as I can tell.
Great video. Great tips. I’m no expert myself. Lots of good information here.
I appreciate you watching… and commenting!!
Great vid. If you wanna know how much your experience influence others…. I bought a 7.3 gasser as well
How is it treating you?
Early in the game, just got it. So far a great rig. I’ll keep you posted.
Dont be intimidated with pulling a trailer but definitely RESPECT the trailer or IT WILL bite you !!
You are so right on the tongue weights as advertised and reality. Way different. Have you done any weighing videos yet?
I found an invaluable piece of information when it comes to towing, and I found that won’t matter what size of travel trailer you have. This has to do with the slang term “Japanese Bombs”. Your trailer comes from the factory with the cheapest tires imaginable. Let’s say you have a good truck 3/4 ton or even a 1 ton. You even have a good wait distribution hitch and it’s to speck. And you are going down the road and big semi blows past you from the opposite way or even going you same direction a as soon as the gust of wind hits your tailer you end up all over the road. The problem is not your hitch or the size of your truck or even the size of your trailer. It’s the size of type of tires you have on your trailer. The only thing that is giving you stability is the only thing touching the road. There is a reason why truckers use large and multiple layered tires. The factory puts on class c tires, they roll on ya and I’m not talking about rolling the way it should. They are severely unstable. They also are temperature challenged. When your tire from your trailer goes down the road it creates friction with friction comes heat. When your tire gets hot it expands and what happens when you over fill a balloon it pops the same goes for your tires thus creating unwanted damage to your under carriage making you pay even more money to fix up your now broken trailer. To avoid this upgrade your tires to a class G or H. You will notice a huge difference like night and day. I have no more wind gusts blowing my rig around and the temperature of the surface of my tires are relatively cool. The peace of mind is great for I no longer white knuckle it.
@aryllkowallis3777 Thanks for this comment. I'm in the process of buying a travel trailer and this is some really beneficial info to have. The one thing I fear towing is the semi's flying buy causing the scenario you described. I've seen what blowouts can do to a camper and tires are much cheaper than those repairs. Plus the downtime for the repairs. Thanks again.
With almost 80K subscribers, congrats btw, might be time to step up the merch game. Maybe some hats?
I was curious as to what the tongue weight was on my 24 ft trailer (28 ft overall). Doing it at home, I took 2 bathroom scales with a 6x6 across them, and the tongue weight came out at 680 lbs. Advertised was 540 lbs. Still have a 280 lb buffer, but was glad I checked.
Thanks for the tips. We’re looking to buy our first trailer (Outdoors RV, heavy monster). I have a ton of experience driving large vehicles, zero experience towing something. My question; do travel trailer wheels ever need to be aligned? If so, how is it done? 👍🇺🇸
You spent some time discussing tongue weight which I find to be spot on. My question is in regards to a need for a tongue weight scale. I saw your video where in part you used one. I have been on the fence as too if I should invest in one. We vary our tongue weight load dependent on our travel plans. In your humble opinion is this an investment that you deem worthwhile? I use the B&W Continuum hitch but for some reason, maybe making it more difficult than I need, how do I use a scale to adjust the pressure I need to apply to the hitch to gain safe loading? I hope that made sense. Thanks for your videos. I have found them to help a great deal.
I have the 2023 7.3L F350 in anticipation of getting a 2800bh travel trailer eventually. I've never towed anything besides a small 8 ft ATV trailer. I'm nervous as hell about taking turns, backing up, etc. Any advice is appreciated before I buy in 1-2 years. Thank you for posting.
It’s a quick learning curve. Take it slow for a trip or two and you’ll be fine!
Swing wide on turns. Back up slow and don't be afraid to get out and look. Your wallet will appreciate it.
Great video Corey! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
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We have a 2023 Ram Rebel 1500 and we’re thinking of getting the Imagine 2670 MK which is 32 ft long and 8500lbs. We know we’d be close to payload capacity etc and that’s why we’re gonna upgrade our truck to a 1 ton diesel. Now before everyone starts getting on me about a 1 ton, please understand the following reasons:
1. We live in BC Canada. It is super mountainous with old crappy highways. The more I think about it, the more it makes sense. Having the torque and climbing power etc, great. But what really grande me is the exhaust brake for our terrain here. I need that stopping power.
2. 3500 vs 2500. In our Province, the stupid gov’t back in the day decided that any vehicle over a certain price point becomes subject to a “luxury vehicle” tax. This included 2500’s. 3500 were exempt from this tax as they were deemed a “work vehicle”, go figure. So it’ll be a 1 ton for us. Even though, I don’t want
To deal with the def fluid, oil changes, front wheel bearings etc. But at least it’ll be the right vehicle for the trailer.
As someone who has towed quite a bit... better to have more truck than you need for the trailer than too much trailer for the truck! Only drawback I can see is that unloaded, the 1 ton will ride a little stiffer than the 3/4 ton.
@@BrianYoung-xn2oq 100% agreed!
All good points and spot on relevant. 👍
I have had both gas and diesel if you are a flat lander gas is ok but if you live and travel in the west diesel is the only way
I've owned both gas and several diesels. I have not had any problems towing in the west with my current gas setup.
Just drove over 10,000 miles to Alaska and back and had no problems with a gas truck, including mountain ranges with a 9,000 pound trailer.
Great tips. Fantastic content!
Appreciate that!
Depending on trailer design tongue weights can go much higher. Ours got up to 1200 once fully loaded and full of fresh water. Their website shows 690. Stabilizer bars should be sized for being loaded not when pulling off the lot empty.
I couldn't find a decent tow vehicle last August anywhere on Marketplace, until a 2010 Nissan Titan became available. Everything posted for sale was the years listed as having issues with transmissions, wiring, whatever. Nissan made a truck that fit the bill for us. We purchased a 22ft Jayco travel trailer. We went to Colorado ( Pikes Peak) and Pueblo from Michigan. I have to say, US automakers have forgotten how to make a decent, reliable truck. I enjoy pulling an RV. This vehicle reminds me of the 3/4 ton Ford Conversion Van I owned. All guts, and hauls with no issues. Today's trucks are over priced trash.
I’ve had both gas and diesel. I’ll never tow anything heavier than about 3000 lbs with a gas truck. Living in the Rocky Mountain West, we get grades of up to 10% with 6-7% being the norm. Diesel is the only way to go. I get 50% better fuel economy towing with a diesel. My last Duramax I had for 10 years and I put exactly $56 in repairs (2 glow plugs). I’ve had my current Duramax for 3 years and haven’t had to repair anything yet. Sure, an oil change costs more than a gas truck due to needing 7 more quarts of oil but the ease of towing with near 1000 lb/ft of torque is WAY better in my experience than towing with a gas truck with half the power.
I’m gonna push back a little on the diesel/gas debate. I have a 8,000lb toy hauler. Started out towing it with a gasser and it did the job good enough. I then traded up to a diesel and the difference is night and day, especially through mountains. I get better gas milage and have almost twice the range between fill-ups. Fuel cost is a push because of that. Combine that with my Open Roads fleet card that anyone can get and I’m not paying more than I was for gas. A bonus is being able to use the truck pumps and not have to squeeze into the gas pumps.
Regarding the maintenance, that’s a push as well because a properly maintained diesel has essentially twice the “life expectancy” of a gas engine, with all things being equal. So while the gasser is being repaired or replaced at say 200k miles, I’m still going.
Yes, upfront cost for a diesel is more but that really balances out over its life.
A gasser will certainly get the job done up to a point (RV size) but there’s absolutely no way I would go back to one. No way. We just completed a 3500 mile round trip from S.C. to Sturgis and back. I remember thinking “man, I’m glad I didn’t do this trip in my old gasser.”
Valid points minus the assumption the diesel will last 400k. I’d be very surprised to see any modern diesel last 400k without a major EPA related repair. Yep, the block and heads will go forever… the government regulated emission add ons aren’t as reliable… and in some cases make these newer diesel less reliable than gas.
I’ve had SEVERAL diesel mechanics (probably 40-50) tell me they wouldn’t own a modern oil burner.
Still in research mode haven't bought first camper. Ford f150 PowerBoost Hybid, Keystone Cougar Half ton 25 RDSWE. B & W continuum WDH. Any thoughts about this combo? Yah or Ney?
IMHO, as long as your trailer is not longer than 25 feet or so, you will be fine with your half ton. But your choice of trailer will expand muchly with am3/4T.
14 years rving, we’ve learned a lot and probably bought a couple rigs (size wise) we shouldn’t have. You have to ask your self a lot of questions. Are you going to stay close to home or travel the country and your seasonal use. Don’t get caught up in - a big rig is better. When studying a new rigs, what you are living in is the length of the house box. It’s so easy to fall in love with a floor plan. The mfg is more important than the rigs appearance. How long have they been in business, wall & roof construction, windows, axles & tires brands, especially the slide mechanism etc. Everybody’s lifestyle situation is different, think about 3-5 years down the road, where do you think you will be in life’s journey?
When purchasing a rig we’ve sit in them for hours visualizing if the interior will work for us. Go sit in other rigs & sizes. Tell the salesman you will call him when you have questions.
Truck wise, I’d rather be over trucked than under trucked. It’s much cheaper to buy (new or used) the right horsepower and chassis up front. If you have a big horsepower engine now, don’t let it get ahead of the chassis you will need to safely tow your rig.
Corey’s recommendation are really solid and he doesn’t really push things on you. I bought my TT stabilizer system (Anderson) from his list of 6 units in his early hitch battles segments. It was 3rd or 4th on the list. The top of list were double or triple the cost of what I purchased and I would buy it again.
Ford F350
Rockwood 26’ Mini Lite
Watch out for the payload capacity on the Powerboost. I have a 2023 Powerboost and the payload is 1,400 lbs. That means everything added to the truck (people, cargo in the bed, tonneau cover, WD hitch, etc.) plus the tongue weight of the trailer can't be more than 1,400 lbs. The Cougar 25 RDSWE specs as 835 lb tongue weight from the factory which means you will probably be over 1,000 lbs when you have it loaded for camping. The Powerboost will easily pull the weight, it's just that Ford says the frame, suspension and axles are built with a spec of xxx lbs. for payload. I am pulling a 4,700 lb. camper with a hitch weight of ~700 lbs (loaded for camping) and nothing in the bed of the truck so I'm well under the payload. Hope this helps.
As someone who just went from 25 ft to 37 it’s absolutely a massive difference
Definitely!
Just wondering if you have ever compared the experience of towing a travel trailer vs a 5th wheel.
How has your grand design held up ?
How well does it cool down in hot weather ?
We’ve had a great experience with our Grand Design. In 95 degree weather it’ll cool to 72 no problem. I’ve been surprised really.
I always remind folks who have half ton trucks manufacturers tow ratings don’t include travel trailers. I recommend adding 25% to the travel trailers GVWR and make sure the tow vehicle is under that number. So if a TT has a GVWR of 7,000 that tow vehicle needs to have at minimum 8750 lb tow capacity. Again this is for half tons.
Probably not a bad idea.
Hello love your video's I ordered the Camco Eaz-Lift TR3 because of your video on it and I just got my travel trailer and I just started setting it up and I was wondering what size thickness do you recommend for the Dreamfoam Essential for long stays 4-8 weeks were it won't be uncomfortable sleeping and how do I get the extra 5% to stack thanks for the help.
So I have a 2021 F150 V8 5.0 towing a 6800 trailer is ok?
Keeping in mind lead acid RV batteries weigh about 67lbs each.
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And your video was great. You are out of practice though. Your audio cuts were like this was your first try! 😂
Nah, just moving things along. I tend to babble too much.
@@WanderingWeekends nice! Babbling and Brooke. 😁
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Great content! Don’t really care about mpg, they all suck when towing. Don’t care about maintenance, have that covered. Love the comfort of 1200 rpm at 70 pulling 10k, no semis passing me, no constant high revs and downshifts. Yeh the 7.3 is closer than many gassers of the past, but it is no diesel. I won’t go back to gas, next rig may be electric when mine has 300k on it. Overkill for 10k , sure, so is a corvette for 70mph.