Truthfully it's a Buick/Rover V6/V8 unique issue and they all suffered it until both got the crank driven oil pump updates and then they were fine. AMC also suffered this with their V8s and it was much for the exact same reasons the Buick had issues.
Another option is the front mounted oil pump in the timing cover. That came with distributorless ingnition in 1986. The cover and pump to source is a Rover part they used for a few years. Bolts right on and takes a bunch of the turns out. Another point to watch for is the cam bearing oil supply point. The oil comes in at 12 oclock. The lifters push the camshaft down, allowing oil to spill out at the top. What you want to do is grind a groove from the oil eed hole to about 0230 to 0300, as viewed from the front, in the cam bores. This will supply cam oil in a tighter clearance location reducing leakage and providing a better oil film on the cam bearings. The cam bearings are installed rotated 80° to 90° clockwise to line up with the end of the groove.
Hi I was watching your video, not sure how it ended in my feed. Maybe all the rover videos. Anyway since the rover is a Buick block, I’m guessing the oil mods would work on a 3.9 rover. I knew about the draining back down. Again thanks for the video.
@ReyciclismoMTB yes this would pretty much apply to all the Rover V8 as well as any Buick V8 and V6. The later Buick V6 and the later Rover V8 had much improved oiling when they moved to the crank driven oil pump but there's still some help in some of those areas that's needed
@@ReyciclismoMTB it worked out rather well however you'll see in part 3 I still ended up having to take the old camshaft and build a cutter cam to ream the cam bearing slightly but I attribute that mostly to it being a block from 1963 and it's most likely to cam tunnel being off. The old cam bearings that came out showed heavy wear in those particular areas that this one was tight
@@t-bodyperformance770 I actually forgot about plastigauge, the guy that was my mentor was a super tool geek had everything. He even showed me how to use it. He told me it was the most accurate way for a noob to do it right. Because that feel for the drag is tough to learn, takes a while. So we measure it using tools, then check with plastigauge. Yes is slow but you can learn the feel.
Great video I’m putting a 215 into a 60 rambler wagon. I have lots of questions. My 215 has the angled oil filter that’s in the way of my heater hose. What’s the best way to relocate a 90° filter adapter? Or should I do a remote filter with an oil cooler? Keep in mind I’m not racing with this motor however this little wagon is going to be pulling a small 1200 pound camper
There are a number of other Buick oil filter adapters between the V6s and all the 63+ v8s have a few options, you just have to run a later metric oil filter as well. I actually needed not only the metric 90° V6 filter housing but I had to also add a 90° adapter from a 2.8 V6 to clear the core support on this particular car. It worked out rather well plus gave me an extra oil pressure port that was not available previous
Cooler oil is always welcome when your Towing things, an oil cooler may not be a bad idea add mounting a large oil filter adapter would be very easy at that point and add additional oil capacity
Good to see the old tiny blocks getting some attention...its funny that most of the series of 300 350 all had oiling issues ...
Truthfully it's a Buick/Rover V6/V8 unique issue and they all suffered it until both got the crank driven oil pump updates and then they were fine. AMC also suffered this with their V8s and it was much for the exact same reasons the Buick had issues.
Another option is the front mounted oil pump in the timing cover. That came with distributorless ingnition in 1986. The cover and pump to source is a Rover part they used for a few years. Bolts right on and takes a bunch of the turns out.
Another point to watch for is the cam bearing oil supply point. The oil comes in at 12 oclock. The lifters push the camshaft down, allowing oil to spill out at the top. What you want to do is grind a groove from the oil eed hole to about 0230 to 0300, as viewed from the front, in the cam bores. This will supply cam oil in a tighter clearance location reducing leakage and providing a better oil film on the cam bearings. The cam bearings are installed rotated 80° to 90° clockwise to line up with the end of the groove.
That rover cover is nice when they come up. There is also always a hybrid cover option as well
Excellent video. Thanks.
Hi I was watching your video, not sure how it ended in my feed. Maybe all the rover videos. Anyway since the rover is a Buick block, I’m guessing the oil mods would work on a 3.9 rover. I knew about the draining back down. Again thanks for the video.
@ReyciclismoMTB yes this would pretty much apply to all the Rover V8 as well as any Buick V8 and V6. The later Buick V6 and the later Rover V8 had much improved oiling when they moved to the crank driven oil pump but there's still some help in some of those areas that's needed
@@t-bodyperformance770 Thanks, I’m watching part two. I use to build motorcycle engines for racing and daily use. Love the impact socket.
@@ReyciclismoMTB it worked out rather well however you'll see in part 3 I still ended up having to take the old camshaft and build a cutter cam to ream the cam bearing slightly but I attribute that mostly to it being a block from 1963 and it's most likely to cam tunnel being off. The old cam bearings that came out showed heavy wear in those particular areas that this one was tight
@@t-bodyperformance770 I actually forgot about plastigauge, the guy that was my mentor was a super tool geek had everything. He even showed me how to use it. He told me it was the most accurate way for a noob to do it right. Because that feel for the drag is tough to learn, takes a while. So we measure it using tools, then check with plastigauge. Yes is slow but you can learn the feel.
Great video I’m putting a 215 into a 60 rambler wagon. I have lots of questions. My 215 has the angled oil filter that’s in the way of my heater hose. What’s the best way to relocate a 90° filter adapter?
Or should I do a remote filter with an oil cooler? Keep in mind I’m not racing with this motor however this little wagon is going to be pulling a small 1200 pound camper
There are a number of other Buick oil filter adapters between the V6s and all the 63+ v8s have a few options, you just have to run a later metric oil filter as well. I actually needed not only the metric 90° V6 filter housing but I had to also add a 90° adapter from a 2.8 V6 to clear the core support on this particular car. It worked out rather well plus gave me an extra oil pressure port that was not available previous
Cooler oil is always welcome when your Towing things, an oil cooler may not be a bad idea add mounting a large oil filter adapter would be very easy at that point and add additional oil capacity