once we put our shower... they are not accessible! you're right. and that's why it's a bad idea. I prefer the 'traditional' way of passing the water lines below the bed and on the walls, so they are always accessible if anything goes wrong.
Hello Jeff, I have had problems with shark bites in the past. They were installed in my house and would gradually work their way off. This was due to water being turned on and off over a period of time. Household/domestic plumbing is at a higher pressure. I have two options that could ease your worries. The first is remove your shark bites and replace with proper compression rings. Lots of work. Option B is to install what are called water hammers in the vertical lines above your shark bites. These are like little shock absorbers for your water supply. Inexpensive and easy peasy to install. BTW you videos and approach give me the confidence and knowledge to take on a van project myself. Cheers From the West Coast of Canada. Benn
Appreciate the explanation for when some weeks don't get a video. Would SO MUCH rather see you do the build the way you really want it done and take your time rather than rush it or you have to re-do something because parts weren't in in time for the video. And dude...take a weekend off every now and then!!! Don't want to burn yourself out!
Jeff, Great content as usual. For in floor Pex connections that you do not want to worry about have you looked at Uponor fittings. Need an expansion tool but they are rock solid. Or Pex crimp could be an option. I do use some shark bite connections in my van but only where I can easily get to them.
Thank you very much, yes I almost went with Uponor hose and fittings but supply was difficult to get locally and I make a lot of trips back and forth to the hardware store as I don't know exactly which type and number of fittings i will actually require These will be accessible so we should be good..
@@DaresDrives Sounds good Jeff - one suggestion. Shark bite fittings are reusable and the only time I had a leak is when I reused a 1/2" elbow. So for a critical location, use a new fitting I think the teeth can get stretched with multiple uses. Keep up the good work!
Such great ideas! I have been stumped about how to get my water lines across my van and still have access if something went wrong. So thanks for sharing!
Water and plumbing is tricky... the Roadtrek is also complicated ... Love the “doable” to fix if a leak occurs ... Good that heat will get down there ... So close to 1000 ...
Nice 90 degree bend.., looks perfect 👌 Nice clean cuts! I hope they don’t leak and last forever buddy. Yep trust, and move on.,easier said than done 😄 I’m a little worried about the shark bite line🤷♀️ But it is a stellar plan😉 Boom back to the start💥 slick Jeff 👌 Thank you for explaining in great detail! Your a rockstar, and the shower picture I imagined...☄️ mind blowing 😆 love you Jeff 🤗 See you next time 😘 Keep the faith and stay safe 🙏💎🤴🏻 Another video completed ✅ See ya master peeps ❣️🌹
Dares Drives Always Master Peep😉💎 #1 Fan🦋 Love your determination, your killing it Jeff ❣️🚐💨 Please stay safe and god bless you ✝️ See ya when I see you 🌟✨😉
This seems overly hard and that’s usually a sign that you should look into completely different alternatives like crossing the van up in the ceiling. I feel like you’re trying to fit a square peg into a round hole or vice versa. If I was going to install these water lines in the floor insulation, I would’ve cut out just one bigger rectangular trench the full 1-1/2” for both those waterlines and use two raceways made of some round grey foam pipe insulation with a void diameter that’s bigger than your pipe, say that made for 3/4” copper, and trim the outside diameter top and bottom as needed to fit under the floor with a hot wire. The slit they come with will allow you to easily do the initial installation of the water lines and this has the added advantage of protecting your pipes from freezing even when your van is left for days without the inside heat being on. It’s also easier then trying to cut a trench partly through your insulation. Your system seems to assume that the heat will always be on in the van. You could fill-in any voids with spray foam from a can. Then at least you’ll have a fighting chance to slip a replacement piece of pipe in there when and if needed because it will have a factory smooth round channel. Other option is to embed a raceway made of a piece of hard plastic pipe with ID just slightly bigger than the OD of your water lines. I’m still not sold on losing over 2-1/4” of head room with all that insulation and stuff in the floor and if you run these pipes from one side of the van to the other up at the ceiling there’s lots more depth for Insulation and raceways up there And it won’t reduce your head height. You may want to sell this van and do a different one someday. do you really want to limit your market to people below a certain height? If you have a leak down there in the floor it may be quite some time before you realize it and major damage could be done by then. How are you going to get all that leaked water out of there?
Thank Goodness I had my subscribe bell 🛎 set to get your latest video. Great storyline and I appreciated your excellent diagrams and explanations BTW, a perfect time to post a video ! Dares Drives with my morning coffee ! Perfect !!
I appreciate your work as anything I have found for my build is out of Californian or Britain and they do not know what cold means. You gave me tons of good advise for the great white north. My main worry was keeping the lines from freezing....thank you
So glad you decided to go back and make things right. Great decision, wouldn't be able to forget about it otherwise! Haha. Better done right always, especially since you have the control. As always, love seeing the work put into this, looking forward to the next one
David Ducharme it’s because of the heat tank that is 110v for the coolant. (Silver box that says comfort cool) For heated floors that box would need to be powered all the time and a 12v pump circulating the coolant for the floors to be warm. It’s a great idea, I did debate it for a while.
First off there DD, what a tremendous use of graphics on this video! Also I get the impression you come from a maintenance background and you almost had me fooled into thinking you were going to cover up your shark bites never to be seen again…good one!
You are not first person to say that. Funny how RUclips chooses to send the videos out!! Glad you found the channel again and hope you enjoy, thanks for watching!
Given that you decided to go with the Rixen system, did you ever consider doing hydronically heated floors which would then seem to keep your pipes at 20 degrees Celsius?
I did and debated it heavily... Because of the small walk area I decided it was more work and cost than actual value provided, but honestly could have gone either way with it.
How are you plumbing the waste water from your sink? Are you dropping a tank below the van on the P/S? Using Jerry Cans to collect the water that will sit under the sink? Thank you.
I have both options sitting in my garage and still debating the direction I am going on this.. Will have more info to share very soon on the channel.. Thanks for watching and commenting.
No this is not designed to be in floor heating, just a method to get water from one side of van to the other without having 30 ft long hose lines and affecting water pressure at taps.. Thanks for watching and commenting
Thinking outside the box!! I do fear that will prevetn you from ever replacing them if you did have an issue as well as the rigidness of the epoxy could cause other issues, like flexibility of the lines or cracking through temp changes.. Let me know how it works for you and thanks for watching!
You are doing a great job but look around the internet: a lot of plumbers won’t touch shark bite fittings saying they always fail. Also vans are constantly shaking.
Yeah i did do a lot of research on them, they give a 25 year warranty saying they won't leak and have a few in a past trailer for years with no problems. I hear plumbers don't like them because it makes it too easy for the regular Joe to plumb. LMAO
once we put our shower... they are not accessible! you're right. and that's why it's a bad idea. I prefer the 'traditional' way of passing the water lines below the bed and on the walls, so they are always accessible if anything goes wrong.
Hello Jeff, I have had problems with shark bites in the past. They were installed in my house and would gradually work their way off. This was due to water being turned on and off over a period of time. Household/domestic plumbing is at a higher pressure. I have two options that could ease your worries. The first is remove your shark bites and replace with proper compression rings. Lots of work. Option B is to install what are called water hammers in the vertical lines above your shark bites. These are like little shock absorbers for your water supply. Inexpensive and easy peasy to install. BTW you videos and approach give me the confidence and knowledge to take on a van project myself. Cheers
From the West Coast of Canada. Benn
Appreciate the explanation for when some weeks don't get a video. Would SO MUCH rather see you do the build the way you really want it done and take your time rather than rush it or you have to re-do something because parts weren't in in time for the video. And dude...take a weekend off every now and then!!! Don't want to burn yourself out!
You gotta do what you gotta do. You do you. 🙂
What is this guy doing ?! Crazy ?! Crazy like a Fox 🦊 eh !!
Nice to see you again Jeff
Project looking awesome 😎!
This Project makes a man feel a little crazy at time. Thank you very much for watching!!
Showering while on the bowl ?! You are a very efficient thinker Jeff !! 😂
New glasses 🤓 Bud ? Looking good !
I am even more efficient working from home with my job... ;) Nope not new glasses same ones, but did get a haircut half way through the video.
Hey Jeff - excellent video - helpful and nice to see your corrections and progression !!
Thank you for watching Sam, now is the time to make ROAMR perfect!
Hello again Jeff! It’s nice to see you again! I can’t decide which looks better ... your van’s water lines or YOU !!
HAHAHAH Water lines are definitely skinnier.. Thanks for watching Rose.
Jeff, Great content as usual. For in floor Pex connections that you do not want to worry about have you looked at
Uponor fittings. Need an expansion tool but they are rock solid. Or Pex crimp could be an option. I do use some shark bite connections in my van but only where I can easily get to them.
Thank you very much, yes I almost went with Uponor hose and fittings but supply was difficult to get locally and I make a lot of trips back and forth to the hardware store as I don't know exactly which type and number of fittings i will actually require These will be accessible so we should be good..
@@DaresDrives Sounds good Jeff - one suggestion. Shark bite fittings are reusable and the only time I had a leak is when I reused a 1/2" elbow. So for a critical location, use a new fitting I think the teeth can get stretched with multiple uses. Keep up the good work!
Fantástico ver cómo trabajas.
No entiendo bien el idioma, pero yo lo puedo ver todo.
Good stuff
Such great ideas! I have been stumped about how to get my water lines across my van and still have access if something went wrong. So thanks for sharing!
Awesome, glad it brought value... Good luck and thanks for watching!
Water and plumbing is tricky... the Roadtrek is also complicated ...
Love the “doable” to fix if a leak occurs ...
Good that heat will get down there ...
So close to 1000 ...
Hello and thanks for watching... I think I got the plumbing nailed, see when we add water!! Yes getting so close......
Nice 90 degree bend.., looks perfect 👌
Nice clean cuts! I hope they don’t leak and last forever buddy. Yep trust, and move on.,easier said than done 😄
I’m a little worried about the shark bite line🤷♀️
But it is a stellar plan😉
Boom back to the start💥 slick Jeff 👌
Thank you for explaining in great detail!
Your a rockstar, and the shower picture I imagined...☄️ mind blowing 😆 love you Jeff 🤗
See you next time 😘
Keep the faith and stay safe 🙏💎🤴🏻
Another video completed ✅
See ya master peeps ❣️🌹
You rock Dimity, thank you so much for watching!!
Dares Drives Always Master Peep😉💎 #1 Fan🦋
Love your determination, your killing it Jeff ❣️🚐💨
Please stay safe and god bless you ✝️
See ya when I see you 🌟✨😉
Another great video jeff, I must confess missed the Sunday videos but totally understand.
Keep up the great work.
Hey Paul, I promise we will get back to them!!! Thank you for watching..
Another excellent vid it’s really coming together good narrating Jeff 🚐
Nice work pal.. we appreciate you🙏 and all the knowledge you pour into the DIY peeps out there..!👊
Perfect, glad it is bringing value.... Thanks for watching.
This seems overly hard and that’s usually a sign that you should look into completely different alternatives like crossing the van up in the ceiling. I feel like you’re trying to fit a square peg into a round hole or vice versa. If I was going to install these water lines in the floor insulation, I would’ve cut out just one bigger rectangular trench the full 1-1/2” for both those waterlines and use two raceways made of some round grey foam pipe insulation with a void diameter that’s bigger than your pipe, say that made for 3/4” copper, and trim the outside diameter top and bottom as needed to fit under the floor with a hot wire. The slit they come with will allow you to easily do the initial installation of the water lines and this has the added advantage of protecting your pipes from freezing even when your van is left for days without the inside heat being on. It’s also easier then trying to cut a trench partly through your insulation. Your system seems to assume that the heat will always be on in the van. You could fill-in any voids with spray foam from a can. Then at least you’ll have a fighting chance to slip a replacement piece of pipe in there when and if needed because it will have a factory smooth round channel. Other option is to embed a raceway made of a piece of hard plastic pipe with ID just slightly bigger than the OD of your water lines.
I’m still not sold on losing over 2-1/4” of head room with all that insulation and stuff in the floor and if you run these pipes from one side of the van to the other up at the ceiling there’s lots more depth for Insulation and raceways up there And it won’t reduce your head height. You may want to sell this van and do a different one someday. do you really want to limit your market to people below a certain height? If you have a leak down there in the floor it may be quite some time before you realize it and major damage could be done by then. How are you going to get all that leaked water out of there?
Thank Goodness I had my subscribe bell 🛎 set to get your latest video.
Great storyline and I appreciated your excellent diagrams and explanations
BTW, a perfect time to post a video ! Dares Drives with my morning coffee ! Perfect !!
Awesome, this change is giving me the opportunity to test out different video release times so your comment is very helpful. Thanks for watching.
I appreciate your work as anything I have found for my build is out of Californian or Britain and they do not know what cold means. You gave me tons of good advise for the great white north. My main worry was keeping the lines from freezing....thank you
Looking good brother looking good
Thank you!!!
So glad you decided to go back and make things right. Great decision, wouldn't be able to forget about it otherwise! Haha. Better done right always, especially since you have the control. As always, love seeing the work put into this, looking forward to the next one
Hey Kurtis, Yup this is the time to get it done... Don't want to be building once traveling..
good idea. I am looking forward for next .
Awesome, thank you for watching.. Working on the next one now!!
Saw the Rixen set up, I'm doing that but pumping the coolant for floor heat. I some use a router for the lines.
Awesome, I debated heated floors but they do use a lot of power!!
Dares Drives even with using the coolant set up? not electric floor heat.
David Ducharme it’s because of the heat tank that is 110v for the coolant. (Silver box that says comfort cool) For heated floors that box would need to be powered all the time and a 12v pump circulating the coolant for the floors to be warm. It’s a great idea, I did debate it for a while.
Nice plumbing job 👍🏻
Thank you!
First off there DD, what a tremendous use of graphics on this video! Also I get the impression you come from a maintenance background and you almost had me fooled into thinking you were going to cover up your shark bites never to be seen again…good one!
Thank you very much, glad you enjoyed.. haha just don't have the trust in parts to make them unrepairable..
Excellent!
Watched a few videos and enjoyed learning as well amen. Also subscribed...
Can you also put the sink drain that goes to the waterpipes under the floor??
Keep up the good work! cheers to you my friend
Awesome, thank you for watching!!
Not sure how but I missed the last 2 episodes. I never got the notifications. Looking forward to catching up.
You are not first person to say that. Funny how RUclips chooses to send the videos out!!
Glad you found the channel again and hope you enjoy, thanks for watching!
Love this channel!!!
Awesome, thank you soo much
Dares Drives no worries dude WHAT?!?
Is there a reason why you did not do heated floors throughout?
Given that you decided to go with the Rixen system, did you ever consider doing hydronically heated floors which would then seem to keep your pipes at 20 degrees Celsius?
I did and debated it heavily... Because of the small walk area I decided it was more work and cost than actual value provided, but honestly could have gone either way with it.
Can you share the calcs for water pressure?
How are you plumbing the waste water from your sink? Are you dropping a tank below the van on the P/S? Using Jerry Cans to collect the water that will sit under the sink? Thank you.
I have both options sitting in my garage and still debating the direction I am going on this.. Will have more info to share very soon on the channel.. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I think you're going to be mad. Yikes when that first leak happens. Love your videos though!
TrustNotMyHeart yeah but luckily they are replaceable just in case. Thank you very much for watching and commenting.
Great idea! Don't think this may act as floor heating?
No this is not designed to be in floor heating, just a method to get water from one side of van to the other without having 30 ft long hose lines and affecting water pressure at taps.. Thanks for watching and commenting
“If it does get cold outside”. You’re moving to Mexico?
i had an idea to pour epoxy grooves where you put the pipies so even if leaks it's not gonna be water every where
Thinking outside the box!! I do fear that will prevetn you from ever replacing them if you did have an issue as well as the rigidness of the epoxy could cause other issues, like flexibility of the lines or cracking through temp changes.. Let me know how it works for you and thanks for watching!
This looks very scary to me. A leak in the floor would really suck.
You are doing a great job but look around the internet: a lot of plumbers won’t touch shark bite fittings saying they always fail. Also vans are constantly shaking.
Yeah i did do a lot of research on them, they give a 25 year warranty saying they won't leak and have a few in a past trailer for years with no problems. I hear plumbers don't like them because it makes it too easy for the regular Joe to plumb. LMAO
i hope water dont leak
HAHA Me too... I did pressure test them and they are good!! More details on that in future videos. Thanks for watching.