Cheap solar charge controller
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- Опубликовано: 18 фев 2022
- I have a cheap Chinese charge controller which I expect will be useful for small solar power projects. In this video, I will be showing how to connect and use this charge controller. These controllers cost anywhere from $10 to $20, depending on where you buy it (a modest expense if it works, but a waste of money if it doesn't).
This controller is intended for solar projects I will be designing and using as needed for any type of grid down situations.
Link to charge controller:
amzn.to/36Q62Qa
solar panel, how to, charge controller, solar charge, solar charge controller, solar charger, solar charger power bank, grid down survival, grid down preparedness,12 volt, diy solar 
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Late to this game but just started returning my big greenhouse to operation and needed to get the soar panels running the vent fan again. Bought the same charger controller. Yours is the best primer on the device hands down TY so much, brother.
Thanks for your comment.
What's the largest wire this mppt will accept? Thanks
Have used this exact command, rated for 30A , using two 100w panels and 2 Deepcycle RV 100ah batteries, for about a year. So far, its operated great. I build a off grid cabin, I use this 200w specifically for lights and my on demand water pump. I get roughly 5 days worth of clouds and rain to operate the lights and the water. Other devices are connected to a larger system, fridge, microwave , coffee maker, etc. I split systems. In case of something malfunctions , i will still have lights , phone charger, charge my laptop. keeping the load light, this little solar command is perfect if you need simple lights a phone charge. Ive even run my 32 smart tv off it through a power inverter. To a large system this is is great backup system. Guys out there looking to buy one, make sure you get the 30amp, even for a 100w panel, i suggest only 200w. I bought some new panels which are 100w, but im pulling 110w out of each of the two panels. The latest new panels can crank out the watts , unlike years past where they say a panel is 100w and even in direct sunlight you get 90w if that...
Sounds like you have a great system. Thanks for your comment.
Yea. You got about the same as me. I'm very new to it all. I got 3 100 watt panels and 4 12v 35 Amp hour batteries. I think the controller can't handle it or so I think. Should I get a different one? Thanks
I will be very interested in the overall performance of this controller. THANKS!!!
I've been using this charge controller on my volk's works inverter for the past 2 weeks now. And it is still working fine. Thanks for your comment.
you did a good job on this video. thanks for making it.
Your welcome. Thanks for your comment.
I think I bought the same controller. SUNYIMA 20A Solar Charge Controller, Solar Panel Charger Controller 12V/24V, Multi-Function Adjustable LCD Display with Dual USB Port Timer Setting PWM Auto Parameter (20A). The listing on Amazon says it IS compatible with Lithium batteries. I installed this in my shed to power a light and to trickle charge my lawnmower. The I’m using a small LiPo4 battery as the main battery, and then a trickle charge controller on the switched output.
Some models do support lithium batteries and some don't. Thanks for the comment.
This was really helpful. Thanks
Welcome and thanks for your comment.
Been using mine on a small 100w panel system since 2015. Still working just fine. I use mppt on my 400 watt panel system
Appreciate the update. Comments like this will help other folks.
Thanks for your comment.
Which mppt controller? And how do you like it?
@@johnwyman6126 generic blue controller that say MPPT chage controller ...cost was about $35 on Amazon. I like anything that does what it is supposed to, when it's supposed to do it. Sorry, can't attach a pic.
@@leonleborgne573 Be careful, there are many Chinese controllers that say mppt on them, but are not mppt.
They are liars.
Especially if it's under about $75 to $100.
Take a look at the RUclips videos by Adam Welch, he tests a lot of inexpensive controllers, and shows you how to find the real ones.
Real mppt controllers are able to extract more power from your panels by running them at the peak of the IV curve which varies over different intensities of light. It takes more sophisticated electronics and programming to do so, therefore they cost more. Good luck!
@@johnwyman6126 I concur. However, this works with 400 watts. The next one will be because I plan to increase system size. Perhaps, ne t year.
Excellent. review.. learned a lot. . simple. and. quick .. all the others. were a little confusing ... thanks buddy
Welcome. Thanks for your comment.
The wonderful thing about these is they're cheap so you can buy spares if they break But I've used mine for over 5 years now and I have not had a problem with it. I mean don't expect it to charge at 30 amps or anything but for like something in less than 10 amps works fine.
Mine works as well. Thanks for your comment.
@@shoestringprep May that helps as well : ruclips.net/video/QWaJSJdWE9I/видео.html
@@freeenergyonshore2828 thanks for the info and comment
Even the 30amp charge controller wont charge at least close to 30amps?
How many pv input watts?
Love your hard and honest approach to our daily power problems.
Keep up the good work Graeme from Edinburgh Scotland .
Your new fan. :)
Welcome new subscriber. Thanks for your comment.
FYI. The load connection is powered by the battery. So you can run a device day or night & doesn't require a panel to be powered or even connected in order to work
Thanks for the info and comment.
Thank you for the video. I plan to order the exact controller. Can you tell. Me what is the largest gauge wiring that would fit into the controller? Also, should I be using ferrules?
I am not sure what size is the largest the cable will go. I use 12-10 AWG most of the time. Hope that helps, Thanks for the comment.
I saw you can change the menu on the controller to change the battery type. Press menu to 601, then hold til screen blinks, then use 2 rt bottoms to change to cel flood or other lithium type battery. See other link video.
Thanks for your comment.
ruclips.net/video/EBjmAeNeDiE/видео.htmlsi=CTwShreYAQvCYTJJ
What I've noticed about the one I purchased is it seems to function as more of a charge regulator than a charge controller. Mine will send the battery a 14.4 VDC charge all the time, no matter what settings I use and it will never switch to a float charge. My higher quality MPPT charge controller will switch to a float charge on the same battery. You get what you pay for.
There does not seem to be too much quality control. Each one seems a little different. Thanks for your comment
Both of my Renogy type controllers both MPPT and PWM controllers hold the boost voltage at 14.6 to 14.8 volts for 2 hours, then it drops it back to a float voltage of about 13.7 volts. However, Once the voltage of the batter drops below 13.2 volts then the solar charger goes back into boost mode again, and the cycle starts over new every morning.
What is a float charge?
Thanks for the tips, if I have a gel battery can I use the 20a controller if I only have a 100w at the moment while I'm still trying to upgrade for a parallel of both battery and panels? Thanks
Yes, a 20a controller will work for a 100 watt solar panels. Thanks for comment.
Put a disconnect switch on the panels just before the controller. Turn panels on or off when working with the battery wires.
Thanks for your comment.
Good video just got one of these for Christmas. My alternator went out in one of my vehicles, so the battery was completely dead. It charged my car battery just fine so I was able to drive it to the shop. It’s cheap but does work. Thanks for the video. -And maybe it’s Time for a phone upgrade.😂🤣 JK thanks again.
Always like to hear good news such as this. Thanks for your comment.
Hi .I loved the way of understanding how a simple solar system can work .but every household capacity is different. So how many batteries do I use equivalent to solar panels if I want solar charge my normal 210 litre fridge freezer
You would want to know how many watts the fridge uses and how many hours it will be running then you can calulate what size battery you need. Thanks for your comment.
Can we use a wall adapter as charger instead of PV array? I wanted to use this for a system that has 18V emergency lights as load and the battery will run them but when the grid comes back on the battery needs to be charged by the wall adapter. Is this suitable for that?
I don't see why not but I've never tried it myself so I don't know. Thanks for your comment.
Excellent
Thanks for your comment.
Recently I wondered how much is the charge controller type or model going to affect the performance of your system? I have a cheap charge controller like this one. And it does work. But some people seem to have varying results on what voltage their batteries are charged too. That could be just the battery quality, but I wondered how much of that is being affected by a good or great charge controller versus something average? Are the results of a good or great charge controller going to look the same or very different than an average one controlling a system being charged?
Thanks.
The type and model of the charge controller makes a great deal of difference. Thanks for your comment.
I ordered one of this for my rv. I have a 7 watt solar, my plan is to keep my battery charged so I do not have keep it plugged in . Like all rv ther is a couple of detection devices in the rv that drain the battery I presume it will still work .
Let us know how it works out. Thanks for your comment.
it will supply load night and day, till the button is hit sir. 50 replys and ill put up a video of a pretty professional install, i did myself in a 25 foot camper
Let us know when your video is up. Thanks for your comment.
I had one of those when I was starting out and had a 12 volt system. I only used it for about two months, and then I changed my system to 24 volts. I may try to use it for something else. I am installing some new #2 welding lead wire on my battery bank. I just now had rewired my Epever Tracer 40 amp controller...I added more solar panels, so I added another pair of wires coming in from outside. I will have to get two more panels to give me 1400 watts coming in. I think my controller can handle 1600 watts but I don't want to fry it this summer, with all the sunspots or whatever. The old cable was 1/0 but it had been wet so it did have some corrosion...I figured new wire was about due...but with a 2000 watts inverter, it won't have to be so big of wire, so I just got #2. With the the lugs I have, I can always double them later if I get a bigger inverter. Two pair will carry 390 amps. My little inverter only pulls about 80 usually. When I had 12 batteries, the system would act a certain way...now, with 18, soon to be 20...( The Twenty Mule Team Battery Pack )...it acts completely differently...once all these things are charged, nothing I can do will run them down for very long...they regenerate quickly now, like I didn't even use any power. Once I get my wiring into better shape, I think the system will work better than it has in the past. I didn't realize my cables were not in very good shape. SO I have forty feet of red and black cable, and some lugs and a propane torch...I have had a pair of jumper cables on two of my batteries , so that they would charge...they are hooked up but I have a bad solder joint somewhere or something...I'm going to try and find and repair/ replace before the sun comes up. I just added two 100 watts panels, so I want to see how they are going to do...here I was buying batteries every month or two, and the cables were bad...I should be able to weld off of them now, through a heavy choke coil and some big caps. So I have taken the secondary transformer coil out of a 1920's Greyhound welder...it looks like 40 feet of #8 wire, weighs about 12 pounds...the resistance is 0.1 ohm...it's a cloth coated wire, the ends are hand wrapped with friction tape. I still think it may be 5% gold in the copper, wire. It's 92 years old and still shiny like brand new...not even thinking about corroding yet. I've been around batteries and cars since I was five...I used to go play in the salvage across the street...my friend's grandad owned it. So I have seen every condition of copper, and it is a fact that it does oxidize...just like a penny...okay this old coil, the wire looks about like a year old penny...still shiny though...I've never seen copper that didn't tarnish somewhat...So I have to tinker with it and so that's how come I had to change the wire out. I want the whole team to be there when the welding experiment continues...but I can try it at least later maybe...I didn't want to lose a solder joint while trying it out. I will have to go to Farm and Ranch later for solder, I think. Is 22,250 watt hours enough to weld off of, or do I need to go to 25,000 watt hours, by getting two more final batteries? In two weeks I will answer that question, but for now...I don't know yet...lol. I also have a brand new 120 volt motor off a blender that is brand new...it has brushes, so I can run it off my battery bank, and it will use almost no amps...makes a nice fan...just the right speed...I made one already, and it blows a lot of air...can run off of #20 wires pretty long...they don't get hot...great summer time fan to blow on inverters and things...I'm going to make another one before spring. There's you an idea...try that. My old one has tape holding one of the brushes in because the holder is cracked, but it still works...I just want a better one, lol...the last one was a Craftsman leaf blower motor. It laid out in my uncle's yard for years until I picked it up...and I said, " I'm gonna make something out of this." Well, now it's pretty cool, turns out the motor had ball bearings, so it's quiet when running. It blows about the same amount of air as a box fan on high. I used a shield and blade from a Chinese desk fan that didn't work anymore. This would be a great project for anyone...basically the shield fits right on the motor easily. And the blade slips on and tighten...and that's about it except a switch , and the right polarity...the motors will usually favor one direction a little better than the other. And it will last years and years until you need brushes. I'll find another brush holder and fix mine better but it won't hurt a thing to have two fans this summer... remember to use 24 volts to run it. I have ran mine off of a 100 watt solar panel too...lol...it more or less runs at open voltage like 21.6 or whatever it is...I have left mine on for days in the summer...the last one was a four blade, but I'm going to make a 3 blade job this time. If you build one, be sure and be surprised at how much you are running it. Do a nice job, now. And you will have a keeper. It's like they used to say...even a blind pig finds an acorn every once in awhile. I just stumbled onto this, and thought I would share...it's a pretty easy build, and very worth it. I put a big pair of alligator clips on mine...and I'm building a 38 amp hour twin battery pack to make it mobile...I can't wait to see your reply to my comment, also...
When you had one of these inverters, did you use it? How did it work out for you? Any tips for the folks watching?
Thanks for the comment.
@@shoestringprep I just had the Controller because at the time all I had was two 45 watts Harbor Freight 45 watts kits, which each had a 4 amp controller...so I had to use both of them for 5 amps. I got two 90 amp hour marine batteries at AutoZone, and I was off on my solar journey. It worked okay but I had to move my solar panels from morning to mid day to evening, or I wouldn't get much of a charge. I had an old square wave inverter that I had bought at an O'Reilley's car parts place...terrible inverter, but that's what I had. The whole thing was sort of a tease...the panels didn't put out enough amps, so half the time I couldn't get a charge if it was cloudy. So then I got a stimulus check, and I bought two more batteries and three more solar panels with it. The controller would charge them with a good enough charge usually. When I got two more batteries, they never got a good charge...I didn't know if it was the panels, or the controller, or what so that's when I bought the Epever Tracer charge controller...so I didn't fry the first one, or anything ; I was thinking of using it on a little windmill that is low wattage. I also found out that if you use the load connection on the right side, it takes away from the charging voltage, and is better off unused, in my opinion, unless it is a very small load. At the time I was just trying to get a charge and didn't need anything pulling watts away from that. It was a little funny; the box was marked 100 amps mppt charge controller...however, there isn't room for any bigger than a #12 wire going into the controller, so I think they made a typo, and it's a 10 amp. I treat it like it is, anyways. My 16 batteries are showing 25.4 volts at 6 : 30 AM...two are still unhooked...didn't get enough cable lugs to rewire everything yet...I changed all my battery bank cables except for two, with #2 welding lead. Those two had new cable already. So I'm going to see how things go with new wire on everything. We have some cold air coming in and they are predicting an inch of ice, so the grid may go off tomorrow. I'll get a couple more wire ends and get all 18 of them charged today, before it hits here. If the sun comes out today, I will know later how much better the system is now. It doesn't look like it will , though. I have a treadmill motor, (DC) that I'm going to put a 3 foot aluminum propeller on, and run the output through the little blue controller, and see what she does...after the cold spell, that is. I have heard they work pretty well on small wind machines, maybe better than MPPT because the voltage changes so much. I think this rewire job is going to make a huge difference in the charging. The old 1/0 cables were getting worse due to corrosion. I figured since it was so big, it would be alright for awhile until I got all my batteries bought. It was time to change them. I wanted to try the little controller again after I had new wire, too, to see if it worked any differently. So I will use it on the little windmill, and see what happens. lol Every time I add two batteries, or do a major change to my solar system, and here I am watching for any change, the sun won't be out for two days now...from 800 watts of panels, I'm getting 17.6 watts. I just left the other 400 in the barn.
@@davidpotter9462 ..do they sell paragraphs in harbour freight, you could put them into your comments to make it easier to read, just askin?
What made you decide to go to a 24 volt system? Isn't it just easier to setup a simple 12V? Not objecting but interested in your thought process. Thanks.
If you max out the charge controller and the panels going into it... could you in theory get around that by having other new panels going into a separate second charge controller, and having those go into the same battery bank but at a diffent connection site? And would this still be safe?
Thanks.
I have a question for you shoestring...is there a need for a inline fuse between the solar panel into the controller..?? Or at all..?? The reason I ask is I watched another video, and the guy put fuses going into the controller and out of the controller. I bought the exact model you have in this video. I am running 80-100 watt solar panel. I'm using 2 little 12V 9 ah batteries AGM. Any info would be great, because I don't understand why the guy put a fuse going into the controller..?? Thanks bud.
I do use fuses between the solar panels and the charge controller when the solar panels are 600 watts or more other than that I don't really think a fuse is necessary. Thanks for your comment.
@@shoestringprep thank you for the advice
Do you need to open the battery vents at any point? Or does it not vent at such a low trickle charge?
You do not have to open any vents, the battery vents on it own. Thanks for your comment
I have read some of the comments and people is always saying that their model support lithium batteries. Well, you really need to read carefully the small quick start guide coming with it. It seems that there are different models supporting different batteries.
On mine it is written at the beginning:
3. The regulator is only suitable for lead acid batteries: OPEN, AGM, GEL. It is not suitable for nickel metal hybride, lithium ions or other batteries.
In case you are wondering, my model is the SP666.
You are correct. Know your model. Thanks for your comment
Hi shoestring. Where should i connect the inverter ? On the battery connections or load connections?
The inverter is connected to the battery not the charge controller. Thanks for your comment.
Thanks for the video.
I was going to use 10w 12v solar pannel with 10A controller.
In cold weather, lead acid battery drains so fast.
Will it prevent ignition failure in cold winter for two months without other charging? It will be better than nothing but still wonder if it will work.
Ignition failure in what? I don't understand the question.
@@shoestringprep what I meant was starting engine ( normally car battery drains in cold weather)
I am using one of these controllers to charge a Milwaukee M12 Lithium battery but I've already killed a couple of batteries. I use it to power a 4G hotspot from the USB port and a WiFi camera (1Amp) from the load terminals. I have it set to the correct mode for lithium batteries and it charges fine. My trouble is when we get an overcast day the batteries drop below the Discharge cutoff voltage but it does not cutoff the load and the batteries are discharged to destruction. I'm wondering if there is a minimum load current required for the controller to function correctly.
I have not noticed a minimum load requirement. But these are cheap charge controllers and they do have to be watched. I check mine frequently as well as unhooking them in the evening. Thanks for your comment.
I want to change the discharge stop voltage, and discharge re-connect voltage. I can get into the menu and settings and change the values, but it does not seem to retain the changed values when I go back into the menu to check..... I can't tell if my values remain set, or returned to defaults
With my charge controller the value stay set. And will not go back to the original settings unless I do it. Test and see if it works the same as mine. Thanks for your comment.
Hi just subbed how long did it take to charge battery just rigged up sysyem bit baterry showing full but discharges fast and showing number 601 on controller same one as you
How fast your battery recharges depends pn the size of your solar panel. Thanks for your comment.
Would you know what the different battery settings are? I have a 10 and a 30 Amp model. Both show 3 different battery types b01, bo2 and b03. No explanation what these code refer to but I think b01 by default is lead/acid but just not sure.
Each model is different with mine b1 is lithium b2 is gel or AGM and b3 is wet lead acid. Thanks for your comment.
Can you tell us why you set the float voltage at 14.2 volts ? where did you get that number from ? Also I would like to point out that when that controller hits `14.2 volts it will NOT stop charging the battery, it will charge and hold the battery at that voltage, I would recommend a float voltage of between 13.6 and 13.8 volts, and it will then keep your battery at that voltage. Doing a bulk charge or a topping off charge once a week of 14.4 to 14.8 for 2-hours would help to desolve any built up sulfate on the plates. Thank you for the video.
I did not set the float at 14.2 the factory setting was 14.2 I was simply showing how to use the functions on the charge controller. You can change the float with it to whatever number you would like. You should set the voltage for whatever type of battery you have. Thanks for your comment.
I think you are right. I might have ruined my battery by keeping it connected and set to 14.2. I think it continually 'pulses' and potentially overcharges..
@@johncantor4056 You might still be ok, because depending on where you live and the amount of daylight hours you get and how much you draw from the battery and so on, But still I would reduce it down to 13.6 volts to be safe as a float charge. I have destroyed many things in my days, Ha ha ha, Mostly cheap power inverters.
@@rayberger2694 Thanks Ray. I think my problem was a many weeks of no battery use during a very sunny period. I was wondering if I should have the setting even lower when I'm not using it. Trouble is ...remembering to change it!!
Hydrogen peroxide is also great at removing sulpher. Simple chemistry, ive used this method multiple times to restore dead lead acid batteries. A clean up and a refill with de-ionised water is then all you need to do.
I hooked up the same charge controller to my RV. Do l want to move the load lines from my batteries to the controller or leave them hooked to the batteries.
I would leave the load hooked to the battery. Thanks for your comment.
Does your one remember the settings when its unplugged and powered on later?
The load, does that also draw from the battery or solar panels only? I wasn't sure
The load draws from the battery. Thanks for your comment.
is it ok to have (2) 12v batteries connected together for the purpose of having more storage and use this charge controller
Yes you can use this charge controller to charge batteries that are in parallel. Thanks for your comment.
the wire I have that connects to the solar panel is just bare wire - probably 22 gauge - what is the connector type that is used to plug into the controller for the solar panel?
All my charger controllers use a stripped wire to connect. Thanks for your comment.
would you describe the type of wires I should buy. My solar panel has a connection piece that does not fit into my solar charge controller
You will want wires that are striped on one end and can connect to your solar panels on the other end. The striped end going into the charge controller. Thanks for your comment.
I just acquired one of these but without instructions as it came with another purchase. Mine however is suitable for lithium but I cannot see how to set it to different battery types. I have found a screen that scrolls from BT1 to BT6 which possibly are type settings. Can you verify which would be which please?
Since I am not familiar with that model I can't say which one. Just make sure the settings is about 14.6 volts for lithium. Thanks for your comment.
One thing I did not see demonstrated was use of BOTH USB ports at the same time. Was this tried?
No, I did not try that. Thanks for your comment.
On mine there is a Icon Labeled Lithium Battery and in the manuel it states that you can use it with one. It seems to be a bit diffrent then the model shown here even through it has the same layout.
Many of the models have different features. Thanks for your comment.
Mine also is lithium compatible... Can you tell me how to change to different battery type programs please? . I do not have instructions as it came used with another item I purchased
@@joepellitteri9163 in my manual it simply states that you must connect the battery FIRST as only then the screen works and it automatically detects the battery type
Can you make a video of battery ratings and solar panels ratings with the rating of charge controller too
I will put that on my list. Thanks for your comment.
How does the wire make the connection to the charge controller? I know you unscrew something and then a square opening appears. Then you put the wire into the square opening and tighten the screw. But is the connection made by the wire touching the plate that drops when you unscrew the screw or does it connect when the wire goes in the hole and touches something inside at the back?
I don't know. I do know it works. Thanks for your comment.
The screws, plates and back of the holes will all individually be sockets connecting the circuits
I have this same charge controller. It works fine with my battery. I have an mc4 adapter for the solar panel to the terminal wires for the controller. I've tried two different panels and it doesn't display the solar panel icon on the charge controller. Does the terminal register that the solar panel is connected straight away and light up with the icon or do I have to have direct sunlight for it to work? Please help ☺️TIA
My controller registers as soon as it's connected to the solar panels but put yours in direct sunlight and see if it does it then. Thanks for your comment.
The one I am sending back will not display the PV Icon with any input over 32 Vdc.
I am thinking of getting one of these. They sell them for 40 bucks inclusive solarpanel. But instead of connecting it to a battery, I want to connect it to two powerbanks, through the USB ports, charging them with a solarpanel.
Should I be worried about anything or is it a solid Go Ahead? As your phone was charging but you were connected to the battery.
Yes, the battery was connected as I charged the phone. I never tried the USB ports to a power bank, so I am not sure what would happen. If you try that let us know how it go's. Thanks for your comment.
This won't work. USB ports won't work without a battery.
I have 36v panel and 12v battery. It will work?
You said you had 'lead acid battery' as bulk of your power systems.
I was curious to ask ... the lithium batteries haven't been around that long. Doesn't this mean lead acid may possibly last better if taken care of? There should be more years to have scienced out all the kinks on something that's been around longer? And I'm curious how long you think a lead acid battery bank would last for if taken care of right? Thanks.
My lead-acid battery bank has run well for ten years and is still going strong. I don't know how long it will be before they die... But these batteries are well taken care of.
Thanks for your comment.
@@shoestringprep That's amazing! Thank you for the reply.
What is the maximum input voltage?
So , the thing im running from the battery (2x12v fans ) needs to be connected to the load terminals of the controller and not directly off the battery ?
You can run the fans either way
Thanks for your comment.
The benefit of connecting to the load side is for the low voltage shut off to keep from killing your battery
Is it at all possible to use this with the battery only and without the solar panel? I want to hook this up to a small inverter and use it to prevent any appliance from draining the battery too deeply with the low voltage cutoff feature, but it doesn't seem to be working even though my multimeter shows I'm getting 12+ volts. What am I missing?
The point of the charge controller is to control the voltage from the panels going into the battery you will need a charge controller. The charge controller will protect your battery from overheating.
@@shoestringprep So the low voltage cutoff feature does nothing then?
@@1acroyear1 the low voltage cutoff is supposed to turn the charge controller off at a certain point. But with these cheap charge controllers that does not always work. Thanks for your comment.
The manual that comes with this was a mamphlet actually. But it never explained what the buttons do.
Isn't that the truth. Thanks for your comment.
Do you have a tutorial on how to wire an inverter onto this build?
Inverter is connected directly to the battery
Will the load operate a 12v device at nighttime, if the battery is charged? ty
Yes it will. The load will take power from the battery. Thanks for your comment.
Can you just use the 12 V power supply without the batterie ?
if i add a bms board on the battery it won't overcharge right?
I don't know. I am not a expert in batteries. Thanks for your comment
Can I use this device to charge a gel battery that's use in a power wheelchair?
Yes you can. Thanks for your comment.
I have same one here in Ukraine, a 30A version. Few strange things about it.
1. When arrow between pannel and battery icon is flashing the current in flowing from pannel to controller (I put multimeter in that line). But, when the arrow is constantly on, current is not flowing, and the dusplay on controller shows 14.4 v.
2. After a minute or so the arrow starts flashing and current is flowing. This lasts forva fe minutes and than step 1. begins again.
Looks like controller does not have propper hysteresis set, or whatever, and it can not stop charging properly when the battery is full. Arrow should not be on at all.
I use 200Ah lead acid battery.
It can act strange. Thanks for your comment.
The issue is that it only connects and disconnects the panels to the battery. It does not control the amount of current to top off a battery, so if you have a small battery and a big panel, it will send all the panel power to the battery and the voltage at the controller will prematurely reach full charge voltage even though the battery could accept more power if it wasn't so much power trying to force feed it.
@@Andy-df5fj thanks for the info and comment.
@@shoestringprep
You're welcome. After reading up on another similar controller, it appears to be the Lifepo4 mode that causes it to act like this because apparently, pulse width modulation (PWM) tends to confuse the BMS circuits inside Lifepo4 batteries so instead of tapering off the charging current once it reaches 14.6 volts, it just disconnects it.
Yes, mine will always charge at 14.4 Volts with no exceptions. It is a very cheap device.
Hi, I have purchased this to go Camping 2 twice a year. 250W Solar Panel Kit 12V Generator Camping Power Battery Charger Mono Regulator. Like this one in your video.
The regulator has 2 USB ports for charging Mobile devices Phones and Pocket size Battery banks.
As Am upgrading my Larger devices 12v Camp fridge.
If I want to store the Solar Panels power into a Battery
How do you know what AGM Deep cycle Battery to buy In Ah's Example 25Ah, 50Ah 100Ah, ?? Thanks
The type of battery you buy will depend on how much power you need to store. Thanks for your comment.
Can You use on a 12 volt gel battery like Optima battery ?
I am not familiar with that type of battery. If the battery is 12 volt and deep cycle you should be able to use it. Let us know how it works out. Thanks for your comment.
Quick question: Does this device come on if only connected to solar panels (19.4 VDC)? I’m trying to troubleshoot the one that came with house I bought last year. Battery appears to be ruined (disconnected it). But device won’t display anything.
The solar panels may power the device but that can damage the charge controller. Always connect to the battery first. Thanks for your comment.
@@shoestringprep yes, I see now that it operates by power from battery only, not from solar panels. Prior battery was defunct. New battery works great.
@@shoestringprep thanks for your help
how accurate is the voltage reading of the charge controller?
The reading is very close. But not perfect. Thanks for your comment.
Maybe yours works, but mine did not.
I tried the 30A and the 100A models.
The voltage reading (on both) was .6A higher than the rest of my meters.
Neither model actually charged my battery.
I have 2 sets of 2 batteries wired in series for 24VDC and 5 sets of 2 100W Panels wired in series parallel.
Neither model gives me an output for the load.
Don't know if the panel voltage is too high or low, and the user's manual does not tell me anything useful.
I've bought one but never used it yet ,due to a hitch , I have 24 volt battery's and I think controller can only handle maximum 12volt or it will fry ,I bought mine it said 24volts on advert but on small print maximum 12v input ,if you know otherwise let me know cheers
Did the controller stopped for desired voltage charge? Thanks
Yes it did. Thanks for your comment.
My solar panel display disappears after the sun goes down but then doesn’t come back when the sun comes back up? Does anyway have an idea on why this may be happening?
I don't know why that would happen. Try discount and reconnecting answer see if that helps. Thanks for your comment
At 3.10 what size cables are you connecting to the device?
I am using 4 gage cable. Thanks for your comment.
Can I use this for this Portable Power Station 100W Portable Generator 146Wh/39600mAh External Lithium Battery Pack with USB C or my Newpow power station and bypass the battery since they both have their own built in batterys
I don't own one of those generators so I cannot answer that question. Sorry. Thanks for the comment.
, can i charge my lead acid solar batt using a power converter with at least 12amps not a solar panel,?thanks👍
You can charge your lead acid batteries with a battery charger. If your power converter is, made to charge lead acid than you can. Check the manual for the power converter. Thanks for your comment.
Why is my solar panel symbol not showing when it is connected and in sunlight?
Hello! May I ask something? Can USB work without connecting any battery on charge controller, by using only a solar panel, giving current as long as there is sun ? Thanks in advance
You should always connect the charge controller to the battery before you connect it to the solar panels. If you don't you could harm the charge controller. Thanks for your question.
@@shoestringprep Thank you
@@shoestringprep Do the usbs ports only work when getting power from the solar panels ?
@@jono12341000 the USB ports work when the charge controller is connected to the battery. Thanks for your comment.
@@shoestringprep just to be clear ,so the usb ports run off the battery?
JUST got 2, 30a, they work, £10 each, but, looking at a few vids, people taking them to bits, the only difference between the 10a and the 30a, is the price, they are the same, just have a tick a different box,
Thanks for the comment.
Is there any setting for the controller to charge 12 Volts 80maH Battery???
The settings are for the type of battery not how many amp hours. Thanks for your comment.
I have a wet cell lead acid battery that requires maintenance. What voltage sulhouod I keep it at! I've read 12 7 but I try 12 9. It dies bit seen ti last very long in the inverter. Any advice?
I keep my wet lead acid batteries charged up to 12.9. Thanks for your comment.
you can use them on lithium, just need to have a BMS on them
If the controller you have has a lithium setting you can. Thanks for the comment.
@@shoestringprep nop, even if you dont have the option in the controler, it will work, just need a bms on the battery side
@@chris_mk5supra good luck to you. Thanks for the comment.
Quick ? What are the terminals called that you had coming from solar panels to CC, the ones you plunged into CC. What are they called, where can i find them? Thanks H
I have attached a link where you can find the connectors: amzn.to/3EHB7UK
I hope this helps. Thanks for your comment.
@@shoestringprep Appreciate the quick response. Can you check the link, I am getting a two pack of SAE connectors when I open the link, totally possible the problem is on my end
@@haroldskinner1783 yes, the link is for a two pack. That is what I bought. Thanks for your comment.
@@shoestringprep Got it, that makes sense , thanks. I am curious on the terminals that you used to plug into the charge controller, are they bullet or pin connectors. appreciate your taking the time to answer.
@@haroldskinner1783 Those are called wire ferrules.
Can you connect it directly to the breaker panel?
I don't know if you connect it to a breaker panel or not I've never tried. Thanks for your comment.
Can we used solar panel (with Charge controller) and Current (AC) to charge our battery at the same time (simultaneously)... Is it harmful for the battery? Waiting for you reply pls...
As long as your charger controller is set correctly and your (AC) battery charger turns off when the battery is fully charged you should be ok.
@@shoestringprep thank you so much
I have a 12v 200ah leshure battery can i use this conrroelw
Yes, you can. Thanks for your comment.
How do you know the voltage is set to 14.2?
The charge controller will show 14.2 on the screen. Thanks for your comment.
👍👍👍
Thanks
How many solar panels can be connect to this charge controller
I have connected up to three solar panels to this charge controller but never more than 100 Watts. Thanks for your comment.
QUESTION??? Can you connect an inverter directly to the controller or must it go through a battery?
The inverter and charge controller will need a battery to power both units. Thanks for your comment.
Inverter always connects directly to the battery. Theoretically you might be able to run a small 25 watt inverter on the load side but not advised
@@tluva1020 thank you!
I don't think the sun has to be shinning on your panel for the load terminals to work. I think it will pull from the battery, no solar panel even needed.
I agree. Thanks for your comment.
Im looking for one of this controllers, but its about 70$ on amazon spain, is the aliexpress one the same product?? Theres about 10$
I don't know if that is the same product or not, but $10 sounds about right. Thanks for your comment.
@@shoestringprep cool, thanks man ^^ and i have another question, i dont stand the difference beetwen different versions of that controller, i see they have different A, but is that the peak intensity of the battery or output?? sry for my english haha
Yeah ok but you need to understand that the load is running from the battery and so is the USB. At night the USB and the load will still run without the solar panel.
Thanks for your comment.
I got that controller I keep having to unplug it and let it sit it won't let me adjust it seems it keeps heating up the batteries
The controller you have gotten may be defective. If it still doesn't work after a few more tries, I suggest you return it for another one.
Thanks for your comment.
What king of phone is that man?
The phone is an AT&T. Thanks for your comment.
I noticed that too it's a Samsung S3650 Corby or Genio ; the camera is very poor, and no smart dialing,and no wifi ?; i was looking for one of that size (the big ones i have are not suitable to carry in the pocket (nor in your hand...not anywhere,actually...) to replace my HTC Explorer (excellent phone for over 10 years,perfect,perfect battery etc ,but terrible camera also,actually totally USELESS) but i wanted one with a better camera, and it probably never existed lol
@@josepeixoto3384 Thanks for your comment.
Didn't know it required the big car battery. Why don't they have a controller for the other type of battery.?
This controller will work on many types of batteries, not just car battery
Thanks for your comment.
Can you do a video like this for beginners?
Yes I can and will. Thanks for your comment
what happens if you connect the panel first, or if you disconnect the battery and reconnect it again whilst the panels remained connected?
The panels could burn the controller out
Thanks for your comment.
@@shoestringprep Could the wrong connection sequence cause the controller to fail to cut off when the battery is fully charged, or to deliver a higher voltage (17 - 18v) instead of the 14,5 to a 12v battery, causing the battery to sound like boiling water, and would disconnecting and reconnecting in the proper sequence fix the problem? Tia
@@englishlessons462please, do you have answer to your question? I have exact the same issue..
@@Jard000 No, I did not get an answer, but certainly, every video I saw emphasized connecting the battery first. In my case, my controller was not disconnecting when it should and causing the battery to boil which is not a good thing so I replaced the controller. Not sure if the controller failed due to the wrong connection or was defective, to begin with, as in from the factory. I changed the controller and followed the right connection sequence, and it has worked well so far.
Would this handle a 400 watt solar panel
Thanks for your comment.
Mine started switching my system from a 12 volt to a 24 volt system all on its own..... it will run at 12 for awhile than screen fades out for a minute or so and comes back on and identifies itself as a 24 volt system.. Allmost lasted me a year.
They are cheap. Thanks for your comment.
@@shoestringprep awe mine came with the panels i purchased.
MIn 5:00 , but in the settings , there is 3 different Batterie types (b1 , b2 , b3 ) ... `?
B1 sealed lead acid; B2 Gel; B3 flooded lead acid.
So do you leave the load on..
No reason. I did not even think about the load. Thanks for your comment.
Have you done a video on a moot charge controller and lithium battery?
I have not. Thanks for the suggestion.
Feel free to recommend a charge controller you would like to see reviewed
I don’t know of any other than I watched another video that said that they were better as in more efficient. I was hoping you would do the research and let us know what you think is the best for the lowest price 😄. I am new to trying to understand all of this, so my recommendation would probably not be a good one. Thank You for your videos and your knowledge.
@@followingthelight439 10-4
Hello..
I did buy this unit and id do not charge the battery at al.
I hear about the cable must be G10 so what is wrong.
I did change the cable to the battery to G10 and still not work.
Must al the cables be thicker G10 cables ?
I se that you do have a thicker cable that comes from the solar penal.
How can i get a thinker cable to connect the solar penal to the controller ?
Who can help me out of this so i can use it as soon as possible ?
I have used 10 gage wire with mine. Under 100 watt solar input and that worked fine for me. Thanks for your comment.
@shoestringprep very thanks for answering...
I am new in this manner..
What is the measure of the body of your solar penal ?
You did not explain the timer function. Somehow I could not get mine to work right... And by the way a LiFePo4 can be safely be charged by those PWM charger because their voltage levels are really compatible except that the later do not need equalizing and prefer not to be trickle charged. But that's why it is imperative that the LiFePo4 has a built in BMS, which most of the commercial packs have de facto. I prefer to attach my own BMS with bluetooth and active balancer to monitor the state of charge and balance of the cells. Preferably, I would chose one that match my deisire Ah and that come with 1, or better yet, 5A! active balancer. Both Heltec and Daly makes one for a reasonable price. Heltec is cheaper but Daly is bluetooth capable.
If you have expensive equipment you should probably buy a better charge controller. These are very cheap. Thanks for your comment.
@@shoestringprep You're right! This charger is actually perfect for my brother's pond. It uses a 24V, 80Ah deep cycle battery, one 300W inverter and two 200W panels. It's a $80 dedicated solution, that fits the bill.
@@francoisguyot9770 Thanks for your comment.
You don't say how much power the controller keeps for itself? Mine uses 10 milliamps = 3 watts a day.
I did not check that. Thanks for your comment.
hi my solar charger controller looks after the sun gone is drain the battery and the battery is not connected with nothing
Since that is the case I would disconnect the charge controller when I wasn't using it to charge the battery. Thanks for your comment.