Would be great to see what would be the heat coming out of this once it is heated and the time for discharge comes. I just have one question. Aren't you gonna isolate the top as well? If its left like this would't it be releasing some of the heat?
I was under the impression you sound use sand for a sand battery and insulate the top snd bottom too. Arnt you going to lose you heat from these areas?
Cool project. Looking forward to seeing how this turns out. Considering that the main obstacle you have as heat during the winter, is there a reason you elected not to put a layer of insulation underneath your tubing to create somewhat of a thermal break between your battery and the Earth beneath it? As this is currently set up wouldn't the heat being pushed into the soil potentially just escape out the bottom too?
Thanks for checking us out! We knew we were never going to be as deep as we wanted with a 4ft foundation and were capping our battery as it was. We weren't super sure (still not) on how far/fast heat travels belowground like that. We assumed most of the heat would rise as it is but I'm sure the dynamics are more complicated than that?? Thought maybe we'd have larger capacity in the summer and in the winter it wouldn't matter. We get chinooks pretty regularly and can have a week in January where the area is almost muddy. Think we are deep enough to avoid frost in that area but you never know.
I believe it's more a surface area: volume thing especially if you are looking for temperature and moisture differences between the ground below and the air moving through.
A linear system would incur massive frictional losses which would severely limit the amount of air you can run through it. Consider that 5x 20ft tubes have exactly the same surface area for heat transfer as a single 100ft tube.
If you have temperature sensors in the ground below the system you will notice the heat flow is downwards in the summer and upwards in the winter. Vertical perimeter insulation will prevent heat being lost from the mass to the cold ground outside. Insulating below the system can be useful in some applications but, in most cases, it isnt an advantage as it fixes the volume of mass and therefore the heat storage capacity.
Sand + silo painted black+ copper pipe coiled at the inside edge of the silo+ water tower+ pond + rocket stove inserted in the silo for added power = your welcome🎉
Interestingly we have since found that just two feet below our dome there is a really large concrete pad... No one knows how it got there or what it was from.
The biggest mistakes I see when making a climate battery is, they are never deep enough to take advantage of constant temperatures at 15-25 feet and using pipe that is too small. Pipe between 12-24 inches with appropriate fans for air volume mobility allows better temperature regulation. Storm water chambers work better for quick recharge and use, especially when installed in layers that are 15-25 feet below grade and filled with a combination of sand and gravel for temperature permeability. Most geothermal batteries are shallow like yours because of cost and labor but can not store enough heat to run for very long.
Totally agree. As you mentioned the resources we had limited how efficient we could be in its design. That being said we have had measurable benefits with what we got...would be nice though to talk about heat storage in terms of months vs weeks...
Youre heat storing with plastic pipe’s is wrong, replace those with copper pipings every 10 cm . Make a frame put solar panels 7x 425 watt. On each frame off copper pipe’s, Dependance on youre money, 4 levels are enough, put other pipe’s between do‘s layers. Youre 3000 watts are generating a lot off heat to the pure sand, Witsch you need to put under and between and on top of it, after you close it with clay, isolation. And plastics to keep the heat inside. If you did tjat you can let the sun do his work, youre system will heat a complete house and warm water system. Because the sand will reach a Temperature off 600 c
The eco systems calculator uses outdated information and as a result the system will not be as effective as it could be. Contrary to popular belief its not about how long the air spends in the tubes, its about how long the entire greenhouse air volume spends underground. Long tubes with multiple bends should be avoided at all costs. If you didn`t modify the tubing prior to installation, ie; cutting a straight slit partway through the corrugations, you will have condensate sitting in the bottom of every corrugation which will impact the heating performance significantly.
Great to see young persons doing a lot of the work.
It would be great to get an update on this. Thanks!
Thanks for posting this. I can't wait to see how this progresses - but I'll just have to, won't I.
Would be great to see what would be the heat coming out of this once it is heated and the time for discharge comes. I just have one question. Aren't you gonna isolate the top as well? If its left like this would't it be releasing some of the heat?
I was under the impression you sound use sand for a sand battery and insulate the top snd bottom too. Arnt you going to lose you heat from these areas?
I was wondering about that too. Makes no sense whatsoever.
Cool project. Looking forward to seeing how this turns out.
Considering that the main obstacle you have as heat during the winter, is there a reason you elected not to put a layer of insulation underneath your tubing to create somewhat of a thermal break between your battery and the Earth beneath it?
As this is currently set up wouldn't the heat being pushed into the soil potentially just escape out the bottom too?
Thanks for checking us out!
We knew we were never going to be as deep as we wanted with a 4ft foundation and were capping our battery as it was. We weren't super sure (still not) on how far/fast heat travels belowground like that. We assumed most of the heat would rise as it is but I'm sure the dynamics are more complicated than that?? Thought maybe we'd have larger capacity in the summer and in the winter it wouldn't matter. We get chinooks pretty regularly and can have a week in January where the area is almost muddy. Think we are deep enough to avoid frost in that area but you never know.
Would be really nice to see this in 1080p at least.
Is the idea behind the Parallel system for rapid charging? I would of thought a Linear system would be more efficient.
I believe it's more a surface area: volume thing especially if you are looking for temperature and moisture differences between the ground below and the air moving through.
A linear system would incur massive frictional losses which would severely limit the amount of air you can run through it. Consider that 5x 20ft tubes have exactly the same surface area for heat transfer as a single 100ft tube.
Is there plastic over the top to make sure no water gets in?
We had plastic over the top to keep dirt out when backfilling. They are uncovered now with a fan pushing air in the south side.
Are you in Strathmore, California which is close to Lindsay California? Thank you.
No. Different Strathmore sorry. We are up in Canada.
Why didn't you insulate underneath? You're pumping heat into the ground, great, but it's just going to dissipate away.
If you have temperature sensors in the ground below the system you will notice the heat flow is downwards in the summer and upwards in the winter. Vertical perimeter insulation will prevent heat being lost from the mass to the cold ground outside. Insulating below the system can be useful in some applications but, in most cases, it isnt an advantage as it fixes the volume of mass and therefore the heat storage capacity.
Sand + silo painted black+ copper pipe coiled at the inside edge of the silo+ water tower+ pond + rocket stove inserted in the silo for added power = your welcome🎉
You post my idea only mine uses a turbojet engine because I'll be using all types of gasses and or organic fuel
YOU’RE. NOT your. YOU’RE Welcome. And you OWE me!!
Amazing
is this in Edmonton?
No further south. Just east of Calgary.
WOW, lota synthetic matterials used,
Some Time Later over the next 1000years going to take them some effort to clean up. 😮
Interestingly we have since found that just two feet below our dome there is a really large concrete pad... No one knows how it got there or what it was from.
The biggest mistakes I see when making a climate battery is, they are never deep enough to take advantage of constant temperatures at 15-25 feet and using pipe that is too small.
Pipe between 12-24 inches with appropriate fans for air volume mobility allows better temperature regulation.
Storm water chambers work better for quick recharge and use, especially when installed in layers that are 15-25 feet below grade and filled with a combination of sand and gravel for temperature permeability.
Most geothermal batteries are shallow like yours because of cost and labor but can not store enough heat to run for very long.
Totally agree. As you mentioned the resources we had limited how efficient we could be in its design. That being said we have had measurable benefits with what we got...would be nice though to talk about heat storage in terms of months vs weeks...
Youre heat storing with plastic pipe’s is wrong, replace those with copper pipings every 10 cm . Make a frame put solar panels 7x 425 watt. On each frame off copper pipe’s,
Dependance on youre money, 4 levels are enough, put other pipe’s between do‘s layers.
Youre 3000 watts are generating a lot off heat to the pure sand,
Witsch you need to put under and between and on top of it, after you close it with clay, isolation. And plastics to keep the heat inside.
If you did tjat you can let the sun do his work, youre system will heat a complete house and warm water system.
Because the sand will reach a Temperature off 600 c
Do you have a link to a video that further explains this method ?, thank you for your comment@@rimiwa-u5sNL
Depth is not as important as folks imagine. A climate battery is a system that actively adds or removes heat from a sheltered mass.
The eco systems calculator uses outdated information and as a result the system will not be as effective as it could be. Contrary to popular belief its not about how long the air spends in the tubes, its about how long the entire greenhouse air volume spends underground. Long tubes with multiple bends should be avoided at all costs. If you didn`t modify the tubing prior to installation, ie; cutting a straight slit partway through the corrugations, you will have condensate sitting in the bottom of every corrugation which will impact the heating performance significantly.
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