Kody, thank you for a very detailed explanation. Very neat work. It's always such a pleasure to see such a great attention to details. EIFS is a wonderful system and came to USA from post-WWII Europe where foam insulation was applied to stone/brick walls which naturally are not damaged by water. In US people started applying external foam insulation to sheathing and that's when hell broke loose because any moisture trapped behind would rot the wood. That gave EIFS systems a bad reputation, very unjustly in my opinion. The question I have is following. If you are leaving drainage grooves behind the foam that means those grooves are free to pass air as well. But doesn't that negate the whole point of the external insulation? Since you are using GoldCoat, wouldn't it be more prudent to simply adhere foam insulation to it without leaving any air channels or pockets? I can associate GoldCoat with RedGard used in shower wall systems. You tile over a RedGard making sure entire area is covered with thinset without any air left behind. And resultant wall is guaranteed to last a lifetime or even longer while being exposed to water and steam much more frequently than exterior building walls.
This is a great question or point. What’s the point of the foam being multiple inches thick? Why not just use 3/4” or 1”? I like that gold coat product but I’m wondering if you could just screw eifs directly to it with the button type system and get the R value as well.
@@tvojslauf 1/8" air gap provides a drainage plain, minimizes capillary action and has the similar loss of insulation as thermal bridging. Air has good insulating properties, it was used in old type double brick walls as an insulating layer (not sufficient for modern days). I'm missing a proper gap at the top of the EIFS to release water vapors to escape when the system dries. Initially thought Kody is using a bug screen at the top of the EIFS at the connection with the soffit. The water will get behind the insulation layer and it will find that tiny penetration to reach the sheathing GUARANTEED. Our goal is to vent and dry the wall.
I believe it can be used on block buildings. I would have to confirm that but I don’t see why it can’t be. Adds insulation value in a very affordable way!
Block build? You mean cement block? EIFS try to address wood frame rotting from moisture or water sip in thru stucco cement. Conventional stucco like bricks absorbs water like a sponge when rain. If rain more than the dry season, the water collects inside and finds its way to the wood and rot the wood frame.
hi Kody, it looks great! i wanted to ask you 2 things: with the sto product, do you thing it is necessary to apply a thick base coat? and second, i see in this video you are using 4x8 foam boards instead of the sto stranded 2x4, do you find it to be more efficient? ,
This is not a good video. Show people step by step and this is not how my EIFS was done and my house has no mold and no rotten window rough openings --nothing wet on my house. Too much stuff to start isn’t necessary. Tyvek works great and you don’t need furrow strips. Too costly. Too much unnecessary overkill and this all costs too.
Several condo owners in my town and thousands across the country would beg to differ. On a bungalow you can pretty much get away with anything. Anything 2 stories or more is a different beast.
@@uptokode well I have also seen condos done right down the road from my house on a golf course and all but 2 were done by the same guy who did mine and none have water issues. I checked Drivit and they said it’s not necessary to have a drainage screen behind the foam board. Tyvek yes and OSB or some solid exterior shearing first. Then it’s all in the nailing and sealing of cracks and mesh along with proper coats and finally caulking around windows and doors. Oh yes and flashing where needed. Sorry but mine doesn’t leak and it was done like I said!
Thanks!
You’re welcome!
Nice work. Id say that garage will be standing for a looong time. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for commenting! I appreciate that others can appreciate the information
Beautiful doors by the way. You make those? Are they fir?
the drainage channel negates the R-value of the insulation. it's basically air and water cooled cladding.
I was told that an air space 3/8” or smaller still keeps the R-value. I do know what you’re saying.
if i use fiber cement board instead of osb do i still need to gold coat
Doesn't the mortar channel separation from the wall negate it's insulation properties?
Is there a wed site where I can find all the things I need
I would love to do this to my home
STO is the one system that is very well know.
Kody, thank you for a very detailed explanation. Very neat work. It's always such a pleasure to see such a great attention to details. EIFS is a wonderful system and came to USA from post-WWII Europe where foam insulation was applied to stone/brick walls which naturally are not damaged by water. In US people started applying external foam insulation to sheathing and that's when hell broke loose because any moisture trapped behind would rot the wood. That gave EIFS systems a bad reputation, very unjustly in my opinion.
The question I have is following. If you are leaving drainage grooves behind the foam that means those grooves are free to pass air as well. But doesn't that negate the whole point of the external insulation? Since you are using GoldCoat, wouldn't it be more prudent to simply adhere foam insulation to it without leaving any air channels or pockets? I can associate GoldCoat with RedGard used in shower wall systems. You tile over a RedGard making sure entire area is covered with thinset without any air left behind. And resultant wall is guaranteed to last a lifetime or even longer while being exposed to water and steam much more frequently than exterior building walls.
This is a great question or point. What’s the point of the foam being multiple inches thick? Why not just use 3/4” or 1”?
I like that gold coat product but I’m wondering if you could just screw eifs directly to it with the button type system and get the R value as well.
@@tvojslauf 1/8" air gap provides a drainage plain, minimizes capillary action and has the similar loss of insulation as thermal bridging. Air has good insulating properties, it was used in old type double brick walls as an insulating layer (not sufficient for modern days). I'm missing a proper gap at the top of the EIFS to release water vapors to escape when the system dries. Initially thought Kody is using a bug screen at the top of the EIFS at the connection with the soffit.
The water will get behind the insulation layer and it will find that tiny penetration to reach the sheathing GUARANTEED. Our goal is to vent and dry the wall.
Is this a system that can be applied as a retrofit onto a block build house? It looks fantastic and airtight :)
I believe it can be used on block buildings. I would have to confirm that but I don’t see why it can’t be. Adds insulation value in a very affordable way!
Block build? You mean cement block? EIFS try to address wood frame rotting from moisture or water sip in thru stucco cement. Conventional stucco like bricks absorbs water like a sponge when rain. If rain more than the dry season, the water collects inside and finds its way to the wood and rot the wood frame.
It appears that with all that air gap behind the foam you get no R-value out of it? Why not just use 3/4” or 1” foam?
hi Kody, it looks great! i wanted to ask you 2 things:
with the sto product, do you thing it is necessary to apply a thick base coat? and second, i see in this video you are using 4x8 foam boards instead of the sto stranded 2x4, do you find it to be more efficient? ,
Wondering about control joints to prevent obscene cracking? If you would have done them, how often would a person do them?
what finish material do you recommend for above grade ICF? I live in south Florida where humidity can be EXTREMELY high
This is not a good video. Show people step by step and this is not how my EIFS was done and my house has no mold and no rotten window rough openings --nothing wet on my house. Too much stuff to start isn’t necessary. Tyvek works great and you don’t need furrow strips. Too costly. Too much unnecessary overkill and this all costs too.
Several condo owners in my town and thousands across the country would beg to differ.
On a bungalow you can pretty much get away with anything. Anything 2 stories or more is a different beast.
@@uptokode well I have also seen condos done right down the road from my house on a golf course and all but 2 were done by the same guy who did mine and none have water issues. I checked Drivit and they said it’s not necessary to have a drainage screen behind the foam board. Tyvek yes and OSB or some solid exterior shearing first. Then it’s all in the nailing and sealing of cracks and mesh along with proper coats and finally caulking around windows and doors. Oh yes and flashing where needed. Sorry but mine doesn’t leak and it was done like I said!
I believe you ! Thanks for the interaction
Why in the world you put flashing on top of door 1 foot from soffits with 2 foot overhang? 😂
Have to in our world. Plus I’m a stickler for water shed.
talk too much,................waste of time
This guy said a hole lot of nothing, putting me to sleep