nothing like hearing a crunching sound, then seeing the very first hit on RUclips for replacing carrier bearings .... is yours ! great video, thanks so much for that!
Finally a DIY video on how to r and r a center support bearing that actually shows how it's done. Too many on here show everything but the trip they took to have it pressed on or how they screwed up the first time and had to buy another.
Hands down...THE best tutorial I have seen thus far when it comes to automotive repair and knowledge thereof. Damn near perfection. We could intersperse 3d modeling and graphics minimally and make it ridic, but time is better spent making another! I thank you so much for putting this together!
Hey this helped my husband fix some carrier bearings on a Ford truck. Didn't fix the problem but the video you guys did helped him do this. He commented that the production values on this video were great. Now if he can just figure out what's causing the whining/scraping sound while the truck is in gear...
mike sampson You're in the right place Mike! ;) I only have 2 bullshit videos. One is the Ryobi Weed Wacker video, and the other is my 100th. The other 234 are made of brass tacks. You might as well go watch them now to make up for what this video lacked. :D
I'm a mechanic and I and don't sub TV's channels but you guys did an amazing job with the commentary did Did great job with vid thanks and I subed made it very easy to send this vid to a customer
Good afternoon 4g63justin, That is a very good point. The downside to this method is keeping the driveshaft centered in the rubber boot that the bearing rides in while the window weld dries. If the shaft is off centered when the window weld cures, the vibration could become much worse. I found cases of the instance mentioned above while doing some research on filling the carrier bearings. I am not saying that it will not work, just pointing out a flaw that needs to be addressed.
Really a fantastic video (and a great camera, btw, way better than the junk I'm using) but I only want to take issue with one thing, but it's kind of major. I know the vice has the V's in it for grabbing round objects, but they're NOT FOR DRIVESHAFTS. Those are called PIPE vices, and driveshafts are not made out of pipe! The tubing, especially on light vehicle shafts like this is remarkably thin and very susceptible to denting, and grabbing them wrong in a vice plays hell with driveline runout and can cause vibrations that are un-correctable without re-tubing the shaft. The only acceptable place to grab a driveshaft in a vice is with the regular jaws and on the weld that joints the tube yoke to the tubing. I didn't see where you guys did any noticeable damage (I've seen another guy's video where the driveshaft was CLEARLY egg shaped by the time he got done squeezing it in the vice and pounding on it, all while he's extolling his virtues as an 'expert' mechanic...) and everything else you demonstrated was spot and and very well done, but it's one of the things I see done wrong over and over, and it really causes a lot of serious and expensive damage to otherwise good shafts. It's always disappointing to create more problems while repairing another.
I completely agree with you. 100%. If this were an aluminum driveshaft, it would have never touched a vise. Much of this job would have been impossible to do [with my tools] without an extra set of hands. I was only able to get the nuts on and off without clamping the vise tightly because there was someone else present to hold it and keep it from twisting while we torqued it. It is indeed a nice camera, nicer than I deserve, but it's incapable of relaying how lightly I was clamping the vise. 'not sure if even 4K could show that? :P Thank you for your detailed advise! I'm not a master of everything and that's why I don't have a single video with comments disabled. :) I need your input because it helps more people than just me.
***** Whew, I'm glad you took that the way I intended! Like I said, I was cringing and waiting to see dents and gouges, but they just weren't as obvious as I was expecting, so I could tell you were doing something right. (or, something wrong as right as possible. I've been there before.) But the welds are perfectly strong areas that can't be crushed or deformed in a typical hand vice, and they hold the driveshaft rock-solid for torquing and 'encouraging' purposes. And aluminum driveshafts are a whole different beast. Even I don't care for those, and tiptoe around the damn things. I'm glad I don't have to work on many of them. Take care, bub.
Nice tip on the hammer shock, to the side, insted of inline... I'm usaully incline to double wrenching rather than putting a hammer to the wrench, unless its a slugging wrench, which I haven't seen since I left the yards...LOL... I also enjoy watching the whole or at least most of the project in the same day, lets face it, it beats the boob tube!
Hey Guys, replacing my carrier bearings very soon and I was wondering if you guys knew the part number of those 27mm nuts, and washers. Ive been looking all over but cant find a pair. thanks.
great video, I don't know if I will attempt to do this on my own, but great video. I have a 98 Volvo s90 and that (what looks like a carrier bearing)-rubber part is torn on mine, and when I hit bumps in makes thump sounds under the back seat of the car.
Amazing video, 👏 you sir are truly a Legend and a shining beacon of information for those of us in the DSM community. Was there ever a follow-up video for lobro and U-joint replacement?
I would buy that place on the strength of it having an impressive workshop..LOL - my wife however would probably think differently. All I know is, you'd make a great neighbour for me!..ha ha :) Keep up the good and the great, have a nice day... ;-)
The DSS piece only replaces the front two sections of the shaft and you must reuse/rebuild the last section. The DSS piece cost 800 bucks and you still have to rebuild the third piece. This includes one carrier bearing and at least one ujoint (not sure if the middle joint is included). The shear price and my goals are the reasons I went with the stock shaft. Depending on what needs to be replaced on your shaft and your goals should be the overall decision maker. Hope this helps.
Mobo Earth If you've got all the parts and the tools before you start, I see no need for it to take more than 2-3 hours. If you add a camera and video production to it, or if you have to buy parts once you're in there... about 10 days to 3 weeks depending on your software, financial situation, work schedule and parts availability. The driveshaft comes out pretty easy. You just have 4 carrier bearing bolts and 4 driveshaft bolts. Nothing to disassemble to get it out. There's 2 27mm nuts, 6 Lobro bolts, and 3 U-joints to knock out. With air tools on the 2-jaw press like I demonstrated, they come apart at the rate of about 5 minutes a u-joint. Putting it back together correctly takes longer.
It's nearly every transverse-mounted engine'd AWD car. They all have to have a slip joint because of the torque angles of the engine under acceleration and deceleration. If it didn't have it, the driveshaft would get pulled out of the transfer case. The specific car is a '90 Eagle Talon TSi AWD, but this applies to every AWD Mitsubishi from '89-99. It's all the same parts whether it's 130hp or 1300hp.
No problem! Chances are if you've got something else, it either has the same thing, or it has something very similar. :) Löbro is a brand as far as I've been able to tell, and it's a German part used in a Mitsubishi that's made in America, so... why re-invent the wheel? Some German vehicles (VW & Porsche) use this joint for drive axles.
Inspect the rear main seal on the tail shaft of your transmission and see if it's leaking any oil at all. They often do if there's a lot of vibration in the driveshaft. Check your tire balance and wear, and then inspect your brakes for unusual wear and also see if it pulls to the side under heavy braking. Next set your e-brake, put it in gear (and slip the clutch a little if it's a manual) with your foot on the brake while giving it gas. If it runs rough, you have a misfire. Checking for a bent axle is a bit more complicated, and unless there's been accident damage or abuse, then it's unlikely. If you're having vibration that's not being caused by tire balance, a brake problem, a cylinder misfire, a bent axle or a worn out rear differential, then it's probably just a bad u-joint. You don't have a transverse-mounted engine, so there's just 2 yokes, 2 universal joints and a driveshaft. No Löbro joint. The vibrating driveshaft thing takes a toll on rear transmission seals, though. That's why I suggested inspecting that first. You want to make sure that seals tight or else you could end up with far worse and more expensive headaches.
The drivetrain in my '80 corona is thumping/shuddering under load at any rpm or speed, the faster the harsher and especially uphills. Would the carrier bearing be a good place to start?
Hi i was wondering how to get the yoke off. i have removed the nut but the yoke does not come off that easy. i've tried to heat it up and do everything i can think of.
What's the labor time for some thing like this? I believe this is something I need to get done, I'm just wondering how long this takes start to finish.
a little late, but it will either make a harsh vibration at certain speeds (usually higher speeds) or will chatter at low RPM's (especially if you have a manually transmission... usually chatters when accelerating from the stop)
Hi Jafro, congratulations!! Is there any simple way to lubricate the driveshaft, without having to disassemble? my looks fine, I just wanted to have the zeal to lubricate it .. after all this time and really do not want to disassemble. Thanks man!!
Y'all Rock. I'm a plumber and know what It's like to have underappreciating people thinking that you're JUST replacing a part! There are probably a thousand things that will go wrong whilst I'm trying to do this, but at least I don't have a shade tree.... but I have a beer. Btw... Does this video apply to Subaru Outback?. haha
This driveshaft would be found on AWD Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Eagle Summit wagon and Galant VR-4 models. Outside of those manufacturers, others will employ many of the same components. What changes is usually the snap rings, but overall these parts remain mostly the same. Any transverse mounted engine will need a slip joint of some kind (lobro) and the U-joints can be found on damn near everything. There's a few different kinds, some have grease fittings, some are filled with wax, but I bet most all of the same tools and techniques would work. :) Thanks!
are you suppose to grease the area where the inner race of the bearing is suppose to seat on the shaft? are you really suppose to hold the automotive drive shaft that way in a vice? shouldn't it be supported by the welds?
Those are pipe jaws on my vise. They grip from 4 opposing points and I did not crush it. You might notice Robert and I taking turns holding the driveshaft when we torqued the 27mm nuts. This is because we did not clamp it tightly in the vise. There is zero possibility of hurting anything from greasing the inner race. The bearing is pressed on. The bearing section will not permit the inner race to slip under any circumstance unless it seizes up… in which case greased or not it will trash the driveshaft and the carrier bushing. All that grease does is help you install it. It's much easier to install greased than without it.
Hey Jafro... Once again! Excellent video... What do you think about using the Torque Solution carrier bearing bushings? According to them, they're not made of rubber, but made of Delrin Polymer instead (whatever that is)... I'm on my way to rebuild my driveshaft, and you're opinion is important to me!
A good idea to stiffen up the carrier bearing bushings is to inject silicon or polyurethane into the hole on top and bottom of the bushing their is a how-to on vfaq its under drivetrain/driveshaft/driveshaft thump fix with pictures.
This is the situation I'm in with my evo right now. Typically the transfer cases are pretty fragile so I ended up replacing it with a known good one. Now I still have a humming/whining sound. Which is leading me to think it's the carrier bearings, rear diff, or a wheel bearing. It's coming from the rear end
I have a 94 camaro v6. When I give it hard gas it makes a loud banging noise from under the car but when I take off nice and easy the car doesn't do it. Could it be the cause of a bad carrier bearing ?
doesn't sound like it... it is usually a buzzing/vibration noise at higher speeds, or a chatter/rattle when starting from a stop... I wouldn't refer to it as "banging".
Hello from Finland! Can you describe the sound when the bearing is in the end of its life? I´ve been looking for a cause that sounds like a bad wheel bearing. After replacing both of the wheel bearings and still getting a kind of a "electric" swirl I'm getting depressed. Does these bad carrier bearings make your car "wobble" when accelerating? :)
baburusa Since you mentioned carrier bearings, I'm assuming you are all wheel or rear wheel drive. Carrier bearings, universal joints, rear axles and/or the health of the rear differential can contribute to the condition you're describing. Running it up on a lift would diagnose the driveshaft because you'd see it wobbling. Usually caused by a failing u-joint, but I've seen them lose a counterweight and wobble because of that... When a CV joint is worn out, it tends to wobble under load. Cars and trucks with solid axles could be bent axles, or worn out axle bearings.
baburusa I have a 1991 for Ranger was vibrating a little than it really vibrated at about 50 mph (don't know what it is in kilometers) brought it home went to the local auto parts store thinking it was a universal joint bought them than went under the pickup one more time, all the U-joints were fine it was the "carrier" bearing in the middle of the drive shaft don't know if you have a front wheel vehicle or not but check the drive train components, hope this helps, I am from Sacramento California. Glad to meet you, darn forgot to ask is this a four wheeled vehicle? Or a motorcycle?
+iboost05 Yes I do. It's in the transmission series. It's exactly the same process as the passenger side except that it has a carrier bearing, and there's 2 bolts that hold a carrier bearing to the block. In the install awd transmission in the GSX video, I take a minute to talk about it. I believe I do the same in the remove transmission video as well.
So I have an annoying noise that comes in at 30mph, then dissipates at 35 ish, until I hit 60 and it's there again, and it's gone after 65mph. I cannot find that it's either of the four wheel bearings, could it be one of these acting up? None of the diffs run hot.
No, but it's incredibly similar. It uses all the same parts. The differentials are different, and some of the stuff is different lengths, but the universal joints, lobro joint, carrier bearings are extremely similar. I will be doing a Galant VR-4 (AWD 90-94 Eclipse) and a 95-99 Eclipse driveshaft rebuild within the next few weeks. I've got some really cool stuff coming to take care of parts that have been discontinued/unavailable on the 2g Eclipse platform.
+Joseph Meyer If I'm reading your question correctly, it's precisely how the video starts. Removing and re-installing the carrier bearings. The bearing puller is the tool you need. Most auto parts stores carry them.
You just use the nut and washer that holds the yoke on to honk it back down. The carrier bearing is situated behind the yoke. The yoke is splined on and held down with a nut on the threaded end of the driveshaft.
+Jafromobile my Dad taught me to use a flat chisel and a brass drift and a hammer and tap the new one on is this procedure still being done by mechanics today
Wish my carrier bearing was that easy...unfortunately it's at the bottom of a shaft too long to reach with a socket, and no pipe I could find would fit over it to push the bearing on. I'm pretty sure I killed the bearing, but the car is driveable and it rattles a lot less....ugh.
You may have a bad or out-of center u-joint, but if you lined everything up back the way it was, used the right shims (I don't know if your U-joints are shimmed like the ones I show here are?) and it's vibrating, the shaft could be bent or out-of-balance. Some people use worm gear clamps to get them back in balance, but a bent shaft or a bad U joint can't be fixed like that.
Yeah, Mitsubishi uses color coded shims for the U-joints, and nowhere else. I don't know about what any of the parts look like in a 2000+ Dodge? Unless the shims are used to correct a part that's not already balanced all by itself, then adding 4 different sized shims would throw it out of balance. You'd want them all to match.
Idk much about drive shaft an I'm looking either to replace the carrier bearing or buying DRIVESHAFT SHOP ALUMINUM REAR SHAFT 650HP: MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE 95-99 AWD, let me now jeff what u think about it
Yes. So can an un-balanced driveshaft or a failed U-joint (which can actually cause the un-balanced shaft). On my F-150, the one I call "Ol' Whitey", I had a U-joint fail and it caused severe vibration of the rear end, ONLY UNDER BRAKING. It all depends on the nature of the failure, and typically the failure of one part affects the others connected to it.
Jesus Trevino yes. just isolated this problem on my 08 escape. terrible vibration at 50 to 60 mph, but only when letting off pedal. chased bunch of other potential causes until i pulled the rear shaft and problem immediately stopped. .
Every video on RUclips does not show pulling the u joint and or driveshaft from the vehicle. Why is this? Because I just cannot get the caps to move at all. I'm thinking about 5 gallons of gas and a match should do it!
nothing like hearing a crunching sound, then seeing the very first hit on RUclips for replacing carrier bearings .... is yours ! great video, thanks so much for that!
We have been manufacturing Drive Shaft rebuilding equipment for 30 years. You guys produced a top video.
Finally a DIY video on how to r and r a center support bearing that actually shows how it's done. Too many on here show everything but the trip they took to have it pressed on or how they screwed up the first time and had to buy another.
Yup, not this simple on some vehicles but on many this is a good walkthrough
This is the best guide to removing a carrier bearing. Thanks guy! If only more videos were like this . To many talk bullshit for 10 mins at the start.
I noticed that from too many posting video's ;....They could do a good video if only they could get their ego's out of the way .
great video, and for those who don't know, a millipeter is a unit of the petric system.
I laughed at that one.
Hands down...THE best tutorial I have seen thus far when it comes to automotive repair and knowledge thereof. Damn near perfection. We could intersperse 3d modeling and graphics minimally and make it ridic, but time is better spent making another! I thank you so much for putting this together!
This is an excellently produced video. Thank you for this!
Lots of info and visual assist. Perfect! Appreciate speeding through the dead air.
Hey this helped my husband fix some carrier bearings on a Ford truck. Didn't fix the problem but the video you guys did helped him do this. He commented that the production values on this video were great. Now if he can just figure out what's causing the whining/scraping sound while the truck is in gear...
Great, Tanks for getting right to the point and no bullshit!
mike sampson You're in the right place Mike! ;) I only have 2 bullshit videos. One is the Ryobi Weed Wacker video, and the other is my 100th. The other 234 are made of brass tacks. You might as well go watch them now to make up for what this video lacked. :D
I'm a mechanic and I and don't sub TV's channels but you guys did an amazing job with the commentary did Did great job with vid thanks and I subed made it very easy to send this vid to a customer
Thanks for sticking around! I'm rebuilding throttle bodies next.
@@Jafromobile good job man
Good afternoon 4g63justin,
That is a very good point. The downside to this method is keeping the driveshaft centered in the rubber boot that the bearing rides in while the window weld dries. If the shaft is off centered when the window weld cures, the vibration could become much worse. I found cases of the instance mentioned above while doing some research on filling the carrier bearings. I am not saying that it will not work, just pointing out a flaw that needs to be addressed.
Thank you for making this to the point, and not wasting any time. Unfortunately that's not the right drive video for me. 🤦♂️
Very cool, thanks for speeding through the repetitive parts!
You guys a so legit! I would most definitely let you guys work on my own car! Thanks for the video!
Really a fantastic video (and a great camera, btw, way better than the junk I'm using) but I only want to take issue with one thing, but it's kind of major.
I know the vice has the V's in it for grabbing round objects, but they're NOT FOR DRIVESHAFTS. Those are called PIPE vices, and driveshafts are not made out of pipe! The tubing, especially on light vehicle shafts like this is remarkably thin and very susceptible to denting, and grabbing them wrong in a vice plays hell with driveline runout and can cause vibrations that are un-correctable without re-tubing the shaft.
The only acceptable place to grab a driveshaft in a vice is with the regular jaws and on the weld that joints the tube yoke to the tubing.
I didn't see where you guys did any noticeable damage (I've seen another guy's video where the driveshaft was CLEARLY egg shaped by the time he got done squeezing it in the vice and pounding on it, all while he's extolling his virtues as an 'expert' mechanic...) and everything else you demonstrated was spot and and very well done, but it's one of the things I see done wrong over and over, and it really causes a lot of serious and expensive damage to otherwise good shafts. It's always disappointing to create more problems while repairing another.
I completely agree with you. 100%. If this were an aluminum driveshaft, it would have never touched a vise. Much of this job would have been impossible to do [with my tools] without an extra set of hands. I was only able to get the nuts on and off without clamping the vise tightly because there was someone else present to hold it and keep it from twisting while we torqued it.
It is indeed a nice camera, nicer than I deserve, but it's incapable of relaying how lightly I was clamping the vise. 'not sure if even 4K could show that? :P
Thank you for your detailed advise! I'm not a master of everything and that's why I don't have a single video with comments disabled. :) I need your input because it helps more people than just me.
***** Whew, I'm glad you took that the way I intended!
Like I said, I was cringing and waiting to see dents and gouges, but they just weren't as obvious as I was expecting, so I could tell you were doing something right. (or, something wrong as right as possible. I've been there before.)
But the welds are perfectly strong areas that can't be crushed or deformed in a typical hand vice, and they hold the driveshaft rock-solid for torquing and 'encouraging' purposes.
And aluminum driveshafts are a whole different beast. Even I don't care for those, and tiptoe around the damn things. I'm glad I don't have to work on many of them.
Take care, bub.
Your videos are very detailed and extremely helpful thank you for taking the time to make these!!!
Yea i can see your point I did this same rebuild a couple years ago and used silicon and had no problems.
Nice tip on the hammer shock, to the side, insted of inline...
I'm usaully incline to double wrenching rather than putting a hammer to the wrench, unless its a slugging wrench, which I haven't seen since I left the yards...LOL...
I also enjoy watching the whole or at least most of the project in the same day, lets face it, it beats the boob tube!
Hey Guys, replacing my carrier bearings very soon and I was wondering if you guys knew the part number of those 27mm nuts, and washers. Ive been looking all over but cant find a pair. thanks.
great video, I don't know if I will attempt to do this on my own, but great video. I have a 98 Volvo s90 and that (what looks like a carrier bearing)-rubber part is torn on mine, and when I hit bumps in makes thump sounds under the back seat of the car.
wow looks so easy when see a PRO doing it.
Nice and easy setup
Amazing video, 👏 you sir are truly a Legend and a shining beacon of information for those of us in the DSM community. Was there ever a follow-up video for lobro and U-joint replacement?
I would buy that place on the strength of it having an impressive workshop..LOL - my wife however would probably think differently. All I know is, you'd make a great neighbour for me!..ha ha :) Keep up the good and the great, have a nice day... ;-)
The DSS piece only replaces the front two sections of the shaft and you must reuse/rebuild the last section. The DSS piece cost 800 bucks and you still have to rebuild the third piece. This includes one carrier bearing and at least one ujoint (not sure if the middle joint is included). The shear price and my goals are the reasons I went with the stock shaft. Depending on what needs to be replaced on your shaft and your goals should be the overall decision maker. Hope this helps.
My driveshaft is alot different and since you have so much fun you could help alot of people there aren't any videos on 96 camaro v6 driveshafts
Hello, do you know where I can find the lobro joint boot for a 2010 Lexus RX350? Thank you!
I like the Millipeter tools !
thanks for another great video jafro
What exactly is a millipeter?
+Alex Behrens It's 1/1000 of a dickometer.
Mobo Earth If you've got all the parts and the tools before you start, I see no need for it to take more than 2-3 hours. If you add a camera and video production to it, or if you have to buy parts once you're in there... about 10 days to 3 weeks depending on your software, financial situation, work schedule and parts availability.
The driveshaft comes out pretty easy. You just have 4 carrier bearing bolts and 4 driveshaft bolts. Nothing to disassemble to get it out. There's 2 27mm nuts, 6 Lobro bolts, and 3 U-joints to knock out. With air tools on the 2-jaw press like I demonstrated, they come apart at the rate of about 5 minutes a u-joint. Putting it back together correctly takes longer.
7 min amd 55 sec you don't work that fast lol
I didn't realize the carriers were empty like that. I can see where filling it with rtv can help stabilize it as bandaid as some have done.
Nice work!
2 in a row, omg this is awesome!
Looks easy with them tools lol I have 2000 Gmc Sonoma and center carrier rubber brushing worn out I don't think bearing broke yet.
Good video guys
Great video!
Great video You just forgot to mention to what vehicle/truck does this apply to?
It's nearly every transverse-mounted engine'd AWD car. They all have to have a slip joint because of the torque angles of the engine under acceleration and deceleration. If it didn't have it, the driveshaft would get pulled out of the transfer case. The specific car is a '90 Eagle Talon TSi AWD, but this applies to every AWD Mitsubishi from '89-99. It's all the same parts whether it's 130hp or 1300hp.
Jafromobile thank you for the reply
No problem! Chances are if you've got something else, it either has the same thing, or it has something very similar. :) Löbro is a brand as far as I've been able to tell, and it's a German part used in a Mitsubishi that's made in America, so... why re-invent the wheel? Some German vehicles (VW & Porsche) use this joint for drive axles.
very cool information to know , i own a 1999 Nissan frontier 2WD and is making a slight vibration coming from the center of the pick up
Inspect the rear main seal on the tail shaft of your transmission and see if it's leaking any oil at all. They often do if there's a lot of vibration in the driveshaft. Check your tire balance and wear, and then inspect your brakes for unusual wear and also see if it pulls to the side under heavy braking. Next set your e-brake, put it in gear (and slip the clutch a little if it's a manual) with your foot on the brake while giving it gas. If it runs rough, you have a misfire. Checking for a bent axle is a bit more complicated, and unless there's been accident damage or abuse, then it's unlikely. If you're having vibration that's not being caused by tire balance, a brake problem, a cylinder misfire, a bent axle or a worn out rear differential, then it's probably just a bad u-joint. You don't have a transverse-mounted engine, so there's just 2 yokes, 2 universal joints and a driveshaft. No Löbro joint. The vibrating driveshaft thing takes a toll on rear transmission seals, though. That's why I suggested inspecting that first. You want to make sure that seals tight or else you could end up with far worse and more expensive headaches.
The drivetrain in my '80 corona is thumping/shuddering under load at any rpm or speed, the faster the harsher and especially uphills. Would the carrier bearing be a good place to start?
Have you ever looked at a picture and thought "there is no way that is me"..... :)
Are the carrier bearings the same for the Galant VR4 as well?
This may be a rhetorical question for some
Does a carrier bearing come with two thin washers one in front and one in back I would like to know
What vehicle does these carriers go to? I search for my vehicle. This video didn't say
I love to learn new things. Great content. I am supporting you. @IAmACreatorBDL
Good thing he had millipeter tools. I have to replace a carrier bearing on my Titan. Where can I get tools in millipeter?
Well done
Hi i was wondering how to get the yoke off. i have removed the nut but the yoke does not come off that easy. i've tried to heat it up and do everything i can think of.
What's the labor time for some thing like this? I believe this is something I need to get done, I'm just wondering how long this takes start to finish.
Thanks for uploading, my cv needs changing
I have a 2006 dodge charger is there a difference between the front drive shaft coupler and rear I'll appreciate your advice ty
could this make a humming sound? specially when running at 70kph up? my wheel bearings are newly replaced
a little late, but it will either make a harsh vibration at certain speeds (usually higher speeds) or will chatter at low RPM's (especially if you have a manually transmission... usually chatters when accelerating from the stop)
You said that this was a 07 to 09 ford edge what is the part # for the cerryer bear?
Awesome video guys yall do great work. Wanna come to Leesburg and fix my front drive shaft on my 05 dodge ram 1500?? Haha
would you replace the driveshaft or carrier bearing due to vibration
I love cleaning job!!! Same style ;)
Hi Jafro, congratulations!!
Is there any simple way to lubricate the driveshaft, without having to disassemble?
my looks fine, I just wanted to have the zeal to lubricate it .. after all this time and really do not want to disassemble.
Thanks man!!
what grease do you use when u put the yoke back on?
What would cause vibration under my center console when i accelerate from a dead stop or when i have a full load of passengers?
Can you tell me which model wilton vice that is?
Y'all Rock. I'm a plumber and know what It's like to have underappreciating people thinking that you're JUST replacing a part! There are probably a thousand things that will go wrong whilst I'm trying to do this, but at least I don't have a shade tree.... but I have a beer. Btw... Does this video apply to Subaru Outback?. haha
yesish
Would it sound like mud tires going down the road
What is this off of? Good video.
This driveshaft would be found on AWD Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Eagle Summit wagon and Galant VR-4 models. Outside of those manufacturers, others will employ many of the same components. What changes is usually the snap rings, but overall these parts remain mostly the same. Any transverse mounted engine will need a slip joint of some kind (lobro) and the U-joints can be found on damn near everything. There's a few different kinds, some have grease fittings, some are filled with wax, but I bet most all of the same tools and techniques would work. :) Thanks!
are you suppose to grease the area where the inner race of the bearing is suppose to seat on the shaft? are you really suppose to hold the automotive drive shaft that way in a vice? shouldn't it be supported by the welds?
Those are pipe jaws on my vise. They grip from 4 opposing points and I did not crush it. You might notice Robert and I taking turns holding the driveshaft when we torqued the 27mm nuts. This is because we did not clamp it tightly in the vise.
There is zero possibility of hurting anything from greasing the inner race. The bearing is pressed on. The bearing section will not permit the inner race to slip under any circumstance unless it seizes up… in which case greased or not it will trash the driveshaft and the carrier bushing. All that grease does is help you install it. It's much easier to install greased than without it.
tisk tisk
once the carrier bearing is on the vehicle and I push the drive shaft up and down should their be any play?
+Tony Cruz Yes. It should give a little bit.
+Jafromobile
Okay that's what I thought. Thank you.
+Jafromobile
Okay that's what I thought. Thank you.
good video, thanks
Hey Jafro... Once again! Excellent video...
What do you think about using the Torque Solution carrier bearing bushings? According to them, they're not made of rubber, but made of Delrin Polymer instead (whatever that is)...
I'm on my way to rebuild my driveshaft, and you're opinion is important to me!
I would have like to hear some Benny hill music during the speeded up parts. Lol
hahahaha millipeter!
Even i understood :D Nice !!!
It's a 96, I have a 95gst ecu that I want to try but I don't wanna fried it, any ideas on what to do?
A good idea to stiffen up the carrier bearing bushings is to inject silicon or polyurethane into the hole on top and bottom of the bushing their is a how-to on vfaq its under drivetrain/driveshaft/driveshaft thump fix with pictures.
This is the situation I'm in with my evo right now. Typically the transfer cases are pretty fragile so I ended up replacing it with a known good one. Now I still have a humming/whining sound. Which is leading me to think it's the carrier bearings, rear diff, or a wheel bearing. It's coming from the rear end
Ended up being the carrier bearing didn’t it?
I have a 94 camaro v6. When I give it hard gas it makes a loud banging noise from under the car but when I take off nice and easy the car doesn't do it. Could it be the cause of a bad carrier bearing ?
doesn't sound like it... it is usually a buzzing/vibration noise at higher speeds, or a chatter/rattle when starting from a stop... I wouldn't refer to it as "banging".
rear ujoint about to fall out,6 months so it probably has by now.
Hello from Finland!
Can you describe the sound when the bearing is in the end of its life? I´ve been looking for a cause that sounds like a bad wheel bearing. After replacing both of the wheel bearings and still getting a kind of a "electric" swirl I'm getting depressed.
Does these bad carrier bearings make your car "wobble" when accelerating? :)
baburusa Since you mentioned carrier bearings, I'm assuming you are all wheel or rear wheel drive. Carrier bearings, universal joints, rear axles and/or the health of the rear differential can contribute to the condition you're describing. Running it up on a lift would diagnose the driveshaft because you'd see it wobbling. Usually caused by a failing u-joint, but I've seen them lose a counterweight and wobble because of that... When a CV joint is worn out, it tends to wobble under load. Cars and trucks with solid axles could be bent axles, or worn out axle bearings.
baburusa I have a 1991 for Ranger was vibrating a little than it really vibrated at about 50 mph (don't know what it is in kilometers) brought it home went to the local auto parts store thinking it was a universal joint bought them than went under the pickup one more time, all the U-joints were fine it was the "carrier" bearing in the middle of the drive shaft don't know if you have a front wheel vehicle or not but check the drive train components, hope this helps, I am from Sacramento California. Glad to meet you, darn forgot to ask is this a four wheeled vehicle? Or a motorcycle?
Thank you
Does anyone know what the part number or the type of bearing I need to get to replace my bearings on my 2008 Lincoln MkZ? Need some help thanks.
do you have a video on how to remove the driver side axel?
+iboost05 Yes I do. It's in the transmission series. It's exactly the same process as the passenger side except that it has a carrier bearing, and there's 2 bolts that hold a carrier bearing to the block. In the install awd transmission in the GSX video, I take a minute to talk about it. I believe I do the same in the remove transmission video as well.
OK I'll look for it thank you, I already have the axel off my gsx
Is the front carrier bearing the same as the rear carrier bearing does anybody know?
excellent
How do u put a rear tail shaft coupling on a Vy 2003 wagon
So I have an annoying noise that comes in at 30mph, then dissipates at 35 ish, until I hit 60 and it's there again, and it's gone after 65mph.
I cannot find that it's either of the four wheel bearings, could it be one of these acting up? None of the diffs run hot.
I call this a pro job.
Can you replace the carrier bearing on my 96 camaro driveshaft and make a video.
What would be some symptoms of a bad center bearing?
Grinding noise/ vibration
Is this driveline shaft from a Mitsubishi 3000gt
No, but it's incredibly similar. It uses all the same parts. The differentials are different, and some of the stuff is different lengths, but the universal joints, lobro joint, carrier bearings are extremely similar. I will be doing a Galant VR-4 (AWD 90-94 Eclipse) and a 95-99 Eclipse driveshaft rebuild within the next few weeks. I've got some really cool stuff coming to take care of parts that have been discontinued/unavailable on the 2g Eclipse platform.
if you don't have a press how's the best way to remorse and install a center support bearing and also no bearing puller
+Joseph Meyer If I'm reading your question correctly, it's precisely how the video starts. Removing and re-installing the carrier bearings. The bearing puller is the tool you need. Most auto parts stores carry them.
+Jafromobile it's not taking it off that's the problem how do you install it without a press
You just use the nut and washer that holds the yoke on to honk it back down. The carrier bearing is situated behind the yoke. The yoke is splined on and held down with a nut on the threaded end of the driveshaft.
+Jafromobile my Dad taught me to use a flat chisel and a brass drift and a hammer and tap the new one on is this procedure still being done by mechanics today
+Jafromobile it's a '96 Chevy 3500 2wd it has not yoke that bolts on
milipeter........legend
I was jumpstarting my tsi and the The ecu fried, any reasons y and can I use a fwd ecu on an awd?
12milapeter lol. Great video fellas. Ima sub to ya. Thanks
Cool stuff thxs
Did you use OEM parts
Wish my carrier bearing was that easy...unfortunately it's at the bottom of a shaft too long to reach with a socket, and no pipe I could find would fit over it to push the bearing on. I'm pretty sure I killed the bearing, but the car is driveable and it rattles a lot less....ugh.
lol 17 millapeter I love your vids man
Mark the yoke and replace in same orientation.
I wish we were neighbours...lol
I installed in my dodge charger a driveshaft coupler assembly and it keeps vibrating does it have a position specifically ty
You may have a bad or out-of center u-joint, but if you lined everything up back the way it was, used the right shims (I don't know if your U-joints are shimmed like the ones I show here are?) and it's vibrating, the shaft could be bent or out-of-balance. Some people use worm gear clamps to get them back in balance, but a bent shaft or a bad U joint can't be fixed like that.
I used different shims should I get the stock ones
They use 6 bolts and I changed only 4 shims should I get them all replaced similar cause they are different
Its a 2006 dodge charger and I didnt touch the center u joint
Yeah, Mitsubishi uses color coded shims for the U-joints, and nowhere else. I don't know about what any of the parts look like in a 2000+ Dodge? Unless the shims are used to correct a part that's not already balanced all by itself, then adding 4 different sized shims would throw it out of balance. You'd want them all to match.
Idk much about drive shaft an I'm looking either to replace the carrier bearing or buying DRIVESHAFT SHOP ALUMINUM REAR SHAFT 650HP: MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE 95-99 AWD, let me now jeff what u think about it
Can bad bearings cause vibration at certain speeds?
Yes. So can an un-balanced driveshaft or a failed U-joint (which can actually cause the un-balanced shaft). On my F-150, the one I call "Ol' Whitey", I had a U-joint fail and it caused severe vibration of the rear end, ONLY UNDER BRAKING. It all depends on the nature of the failure, and typically the failure of one part affects the others connected to it.
Jafromobile jdhsh
bad tires also cause severe vibration. Check your tires and check your bearings.
Jesus Trevino yes. just isolated this problem on my 08 escape. terrible vibration at 50 to 60 mph, but only when letting off pedal. chased bunch of other potential causes until i pulled the rear shaft and problem immediately stopped. .
Did he say "millipeter" instead of "millimeter"?
Yes, I think it was deliberate; such as, "Mill-ah-tremetric''
Every video on RUclips does not show pulling the u joint and or driveshaft from the vehicle. Why is this? Because I just cannot get the caps to move at all. I'm thinking about 5 gallons of gas and a match should do it!