Im restoring my dads '71 750. Guess why im here ? lol, im currently working on the rear wheel, but damn ! I even try'd heating it, nothing ! I know there is stuff called bearring freezer assembly, maybe I try that. ( you freeze the bearring around -50C before you install it, it works great, I used it a long time ago ) I bet freezing it can also work to remove it. Ill post it here to tell you desperate people how it went ! Wish me luck :) Next day edit : I had easy succes using this method ! First I put the bearring under much tension, then I apply'd the bearring freezer and tap'd a little bit on the edges n stuff with a hamer, gently ofcourse, then I increased the tension a little more and apply'd more bearring Freezer. During that process a small 'clunk' was heard and the bearring came loose ! It was really easy, and surely THE way to do this proces. I hope I have helped someone. I wish you all good luck on your restoring adventures !
You've gotta check the very outermost edge of the bearing for any sand or grit or whatever, 'cause if it gets caught in that beveled edge it will be turned under as you pull the bearing, and it will WEDGE and LOCK the bearing in place, such that the harder you pull/push on that bearing race, the harder it's going to be pushed into the side-wall of the bearing pocket. So clean it all out really well with the tip of a sharp blade, maybe even a wire brush etc, in addition to compressed air & solvents etc. 'Cause it might already be wedged & you'll need the leverage to remove it....
The 'F1 rear disc hub is an overbuilt P.O.S.! How can we shed some MASS from these beasts? That's what AYE wanna know. And the DISCS on these old beasts! Ought to be cut down to 260mm or smaller - the 276mm max, being that it's such a cheap mod, if you're using the later DOHC-4 era twin-pot calipers, to grab a caliper hanger-bracket from the FT500 Ascot or similar. But either which way, it's the COMSTAR wheels which frickin' RULE!!! Rebuild 'em with the wider yet lighter Akront "NERVI" rims, and they'll outperform anything you could do with wire-spokes. There's a reason why Honda raced with 'em, and so successfully, throughout the next decade - starting in '76 at Montjuich with the RCB, prototype of the DOHC-4 series! Beat the pants off the SOHC-4 CR750 in every respect - especially with respect to their aesthetics......
Laughing my ass off... because I’m about to attempt this tomorrow. The only thing other videos do is add heat to the outside of the hub (not on the actual bearing because... then it would expand as well). I hope I have an easier time! I’m finding myself gritting my teeth every time you do it like it’ll help. 😂
aaaand gosh darnit even with heat, this slide hammer ain’t doing it, and I’m bashing the s#it out of it. Should have gotten the motion pro one where you hammer it out, not reverse slide hammer it in. All while trying not to piss off the neighbors....
those axle collars are so damn hard to find. i just hammer the edges of the bearing from the other side with a flathead screwdriver. slow and steady like ur chiseling David.
I. Jonkers, the tool expands when screwed. So, you fit the tool through the bearing and expand it until it's right and either pull (using the slide hammer) or push (using a normal hammer). Good luck!
Thanks for answering. I have this tool but it has no good grip under the bearing so it pops out again and again after a 4 or 5 slides. Cheap tool failure maybe...
I. Jonkers you may want to flip the tool and push the bearing out using a hammer. By reversing it, you get a lot more force because you can use a hammer. You can see me doing this at around the 16th minute.
Im restoring my dads '71 750.
Guess why im here ? lol, im currently working on the rear wheel, but damn ! I even try'd heating it, nothing !
I know there is stuff called bearring freezer assembly, maybe I try that. ( you freeze the bearring around -50C before you install it, it works great, I used it a long time ago ) I bet freezing it can also work to remove it.
Ill post it here to tell you desperate people how it went ! Wish me luck :)
Next day edit : I had easy succes using this method !
First I put the bearring under much tension, then I apply'd the bearring freezer and tap'd a little bit on the edges n stuff with a hamer, gently ofcourse, then I increased the tension a little more and apply'd more bearring Freezer.
During that process a small 'clunk' was heard and the bearring came loose !
It was really easy, and surely THE way to do this proces.
I hope I have helped someone.
I wish you all good luck on your restoring adventures !
You've gotta check the very outermost edge of the bearing for any sand or grit or whatever, 'cause if it gets caught in that beveled edge it will be turned under as you pull the bearing, and it will WEDGE and LOCK the bearing in place, such that the harder you pull/push on that bearing race, the harder it's going to be pushed into the side-wall of the bearing pocket. So clean it all out really well with the tip of a sharp blade, maybe even a wire brush etc, in addition to compressed air & solvents etc. 'Cause it might already be wedged & you'll need the leverage to remove it....
Shake weight, garage edition.
Shake-weight(tm)???
The 'F1 rear disc hub is an overbuilt P.O.S.! How can we shed some MASS from these beasts? That's what AYE wanna know. And the DISCS on these old beasts! Ought to be cut down to 260mm or smaller - the 276mm max, being that it's such a cheap mod, if you're using the later DOHC-4 era twin-pot calipers, to grab a caliper hanger-bracket from the FT500 Ascot or similar.
But either which way, it's the COMSTAR wheels which frickin' RULE!!! Rebuild 'em with the wider yet lighter Akront "NERVI" rims, and they'll outperform anything you could do with wire-spokes. There's a reason why Honda raced with 'em, and so successfully, throughout the next decade - starting in '76 at Montjuich with the RCB, prototype of the DOHC-4 series! Beat the pants off the SOHC-4 CR750 in every respect - especially with respect to their aesthetics......
Laughing my ass off... because I’m about to attempt this tomorrow. The only thing other videos do is add heat to the outside of the hub (not on the actual bearing because... then it would expand as well). I hope I have an easier time! I’m finding myself gritting my teeth every time you do it like it’ll help. 😂
aaaand gosh darnit even with heat, this slide hammer ain’t doing it, and I’m bashing the s#it out of it. Should have gotten the motion pro one where you hammer it out, not reverse slide hammer it in. All while trying not to piss off the neighbors....
those axle collars are so damn hard to find. i just hammer the edges of the bearing from the other side with a flathead screwdriver. slow and steady like ur chiseling David.
Well, I'm glad I watched this. Hammering the inner bearing trumps slide hammer. Thanks for the post. What year is the bike?
It's a '75. The flipping around of the slide hammer to hammer it out backwards is a neat trick. Desperation being the mother of invention.
good vid! Did you fix the tool on the bearing 'wall' or underneath it?
I. Jonkers, the tool expands when screwed. So, you fit the tool through the bearing and expand it until it's right and either pull (using the slide hammer) or push (using a normal hammer). Good luck!
Thanks for answering. I have this tool but it has no good grip under the bearing so it pops out again and again after a 4 or 5 slides. Cheap tool failure maybe...
I. Jonkers you may want to flip the tool and push the bearing out using a hammer. By reversing it, you get a lot more force because you can use a hammer. You can see me doing this at around the 16th minute.
where'd you get that mount to hold your engine up?
Jose Caballero got the stand at two brothers.
Chris Jewell thanks! I appreciate it
Should have heated up the assembly. Aluminum expands greater than steel and will reduce the interference fit
Too late now