The silencer is a thing of beauty. The last 5 Hp compressor I put together was so noisy I ran a PVC air intake through the shop wall and used a Dodge pickup air filter and housing to strain out the wasps... still a hammering puppy. I envy your new setup.
Great video, and content on your channel. Please stop telling people to like and subscribe 5 times a video, your not a 12 year old you tuber and your audience is paying more attention then most.
Eric Strebel one thing i did was used a lawn mower filter to quiet mines and works great I used a craftsman Tire Air tank and replaced safety valve with and 125psi instead of 150 psi . however i didn't use on and off pressure switch instead i got heavy duty light switch and wall plate and box i flip it on and off when need be . i build models and its perfect . one thing i did do was mount my tank upside down so when i blow tank anything inside comes out and i leave ball valve open till next use
So cool. I've got the fridge compressor waiting, now waiting for a donated tank, but your video inspired me. I may go out and buy one. . . Just awesome work
Nice, I also make my own 10 gallons silent air compressor, for my airbrushing. May I make a suggestion, since I change the oil that came with my fridge compressor for synthetic oil I add it a 120v computer fan that helps to cool down the compressor, since it takes more time to fill up the tank, and it works great!
Keep in mind you can use that compressor as a serious vacuum pump (tee into inlet and put 2 valves and a vacuum line). But I wouldn’t try to do both build pressure and pull a vacuum at the same time. The new capacitor is a hard start kit, because these little compressors are not designed to start against a load. (You would have to open a valve to release the pressure on line so it would start) once it’s going, it can go up to about 450psi...
As always impressive work! I have some questions about this new build: 1.- How big is the compressor in HP? 2.- How long does it take to fill the whole 15 gallons? and lastly: 3.- How many watts it consumes when running? Thanks!
Edu Fregoso wow, all good questions that I don't know the answers to, they are irrelevant to me based on my needs, You only fill it up once from 0 psi. Tank gets filled between 75 and 100 psi when in use, maybe takes 5 minutes to fill up again. Feel free to share on social media
Karl Lautman Old Shaving cream can, move plastic top and plug on bottom, stuff with brass wool, get lucky and find brass manifold from something broken and assemble :-)
I'm building one for airbrush so I won't need a very high pressure of volume. I was thinking of using the small coil and fan that I scavenged of the original machine and attaching it just aft. the pump.. adding a small dip tank with copper wool to remove the moisture.
Very nice video and good work. Couple of comments. You didn’t address the unloader valve. What did you do there? Also, silencers for guns are not stuffed with sound absorbing material. They a baffled inside. I’m sure you can reduce the report with brass wool or something, but it’s not typical. Thanks
one question, you made a mounting plate for the compressor, but why then glue the power in connector? you could've made a small mounting plate for that?
andygozzo72 you are absolutely correct, I considered it, but decided that it was to difficult to fabricate vs just bonding it in place. If I had laser cut or water jet the metal part then I would have done it in a heart beat. Thanks for your comment, feel free to share on social media, that helps me out the most. Rock on!
Ideally you want to use a non detergent oil since these motors don't have a pump I merely use 1040 for the additional protection the 40 weight offers. I do not have any issues with overheating.
I thought you would have lost oil from the compressor too. Thanks for covering that. I was under the impression that the freon used for AC units had oil in it that was needed to lube the compressor. I guess that was bad info since yours has been working for quite a while now. I enjoyed the video. I'll share this one with the Shop Hacks Facebook group too. I think they are going to love it. How's the production going for your backpack hanger? Congrats on getting your Kickstarter funded!
Shop Hacks thank you for the share, much appreciated. The Backpack hanger is going well. I sent off the production documentation this morning, I am sure there will be a bit of back and forth for the next few days. Monies were released form Kickstarter on Monday, things are moving forward! woot woot! Thanks for asking. I am excited to get it into production.
@@EricStrebel I'm enjoying following your story along with the tech tip videos. I don't know how your general audience would respond to updates about your backpack hanger journey but I'd love to hear all about it as you go. Keep up the good work.
Wow Eric, great video very detailed and helpful and clean finished job at that... but can i ask for a bit more detailed help/info regarding building a two in one compressor build??? how can i build a compressor that can run: 1- my airbrush kit 2- can vacuum 3- can build up pressure for a pressure chamber??? for the chamber it will be logical to use a pressure cooking pot with its modified own lid, and a seperate one for the vacuum.. but what kinda other parts do i need?? and how the physics should work :D got he briefest idea and thats all. i can picture the algorithm but the actual parts and flow is blank :D ahahaha i ve been looking for such a detailed tutorial, and your diy comp video has caught my eye.. i really would appreciate it if you can maybe list and write a brief how to.. cause a video would be asking waaaay too much :D or would it?? only you know :D thnxs for your time and patience :D stay healthy and strong in these times and keep on doing the great, clean and helpful job u r doing cheers
@7:47 in the video- you should totally repaint the compressor tank-head unit as a Boba-Fett or some Android - like the vid- followed you for awhile- like the upgrade! Bravo and Cheers!
@@EricStrebel could you alleviate that by putting a condenser before the tank? I saw someone else modify theirs with a condenser and filter to catch the water and drain it as it runs instead of it going into the tank.
I’d even go 3 or 4 just to have a quiet air source in my shop but 4 is a bit much when thinking about powering them. How much power do they need to run?
@@EricStrebel Ive been meaning to convert my existing one, much like your first conversion to the fridge compressor as we have street waste collection every few months and there are a number of fridges on the kerbside. I just need to finish my workshop build first :)
Armchair'n this... As a lazy innovator... I'd simply mount the small tank on top of the large tank... connect them with a staged dryer and valve... and good to go.. 21 gallons and extra dry air.
@@EricStrebel I currently have a simple "air filter" attached to it. Simple plastic box with (I think) a small block of foam in it. I'd possibly be able to attach it in its place, possibly just 3D print an adapter for it.
What kind of use do you put this through? Is this thing something that runs 10 hours year or a hundred hours a month? I'm thinking about using a reefer compressor to aerate my pond.
It's a metal can with a small hole on the opposite end of the large opening filled with brass wool, works very well, basically how gun silencers are made
Having a problem with mine when I put the on/off Pressure into the wiring. I can't get it to kick on. [It Kicks off at a 100 PSI and Kicks back on again at 55PSI] But it's not kicking on but if I wire it without that, it runs.
I have that it's the pressure switch that turns the pump on at 70PSI and off at 100 PSI. When I run the power through that. It will not run when I bypass it. It runs, but will not shut off Making it dangerous if left on the pressure switch is supposed to stop it at 100 PSI. It screws into the tank and has 2 prongs. For electric
Hi! Love your build and thinking about making something similar, I was wondering, how long it takes to fill the original tank(old build) and how long does it take to fill up(to 100 PSI) this one? Thanks!
Perhaps it took 5 to 7 minutes on the original one this one maybe takes 10 to 12 minutes, empty. Normally it just fills up between 60 and 100 psi so it never goes to zero
Hi. Great video!!! I have a question for you. I got an old 1/2 HP Tecumseh compressor and built a silent air compressor with it for my hobby projects. I used a new SS Relay, new thermal overload protector and new pressure switch. Everything works fine. I've set the pressure switch cut out at about 90 psi and cut in about 60 psi but I've noticed that the compressor overload protector trips when the compressor tries to cut in under pressure. I have to depressurize the tank down to about 30 psi in order for the compressor to cut in smoothly. Is this normal or is there possibly something wrong??
@@rodelago5591 thanks for responding! Yes I did install a check valve but funny you asked because I was thinking maybe that could be the problem. I suspect that perhaps the check valve is defective. I think I'll replace it one of these good days and see if anything changes. Cheers!
@@EricStrebel but it does start when I plug it into the wall outlet, just want to know if it can work like that without any problems, when I removed it from the appliance it was missing..
how long does it take to fill that tank please? Ive got a 50 ltr v twin compressor now that is noisey, and was thinking of putting a fridge compressor inline so when im doing small jobs, it can be working away, but when i need to spray i can put the big compressor on.. thanks
FYI - refrigerator motors have a low on/off duty cycle. They burn out if the motors stay on too long. You have to be careful using tanks so large that the SMALL piston take to long to fill, the motor will become overheated. They work better with small 1 gal tanks. Thus they work best for things that do not require large volumes of air; like an airbrush. You could of course use multiple refrigerator compressors on one tank.
@@OakKnobFarm Thanks for the advice. I happen to visit a local scrapyard three or four days a week. They’re mostly industrial Scrap but they get dozens and dozens of massive tractor trailer truck size HVAC units that come in regularly. And regular sized units also. Is there anything specific I should look out for? Since I literally have hundreds of compressors to pick from… I want to get what’s best suited. I plan on putting a single or maybe double compressors on a 20-ish gallon tank. I do industrial circuit board repair and test equipment calibration. So I use my tank for cleaning and moisture removal… i use it more than any total in my shop. Considering a small squirt of 100% alcohol… Followed by good tight blast of air will clean and remove almost any debris or contaminants. I only run about 50 psi… so to not potentially lift the circuitboard copper traces or blow off the solder mask. However that 50 psi seems more like 100 because I’m running through a very small diameter airbrush hose, And attached to the end of my blow gun is a basketball inflating needle. So even though I’m using 50 psi pretty much around the clock… The tiny diameter of the inflation needle means I’m using a very low volume of air. Right now my 30 gallon tank last me pretty much all day. Just wondering what would be best and I appreciate any info you can give. Also… How long would your average HVAC compressor take to pump up a 20 gallon tank?
I’m having difficulty understanding this and although I know mechanics and I weld, here is the program logic schematics for this? Please confirm friends: 1. Tank has 3 outlets: bottom purge for water, air in from compressor, air out to accessories 2. The compressor has three outlets: Air in from room (black silencer Can), air out (compressed) to Number 2 of tank (air in) and number three Oil ?? I’m assuming the 4th line the Freon Lone gets capped off? I didn’t see that on the 2016 vid 3. Tank’s compressed Air IN pipes have nothing more than a one way check valve? 4. The Tanks out Valve seems the most complicated at: 4.1.: Three Tee 4.2.: 125 psi relief valve 4.3.: Pressure regulator 4.4.: Four Tee 4.5: Pressure Valve 4.5.: Switch Not understanding where the capacitor came in and why it blew up Also: what is the final Emptying ratio compared to the old orange one? Took 20 mins to fill up And how long to empty Vs the new one Ok thx great stuff
compressor has one outlet, this is where we fill the tank with air, and one inlet, this is where the air comes in trough the silencer can, and one for the oil (just has a rubber plug in it) Outlet can be configured any way you want for your set up. Have no idea how long to empty, I never use it like that, I guess it would depend on your outlet flow rate and what you have hoked up. Don't full understand why the capacitor died either, probably was a crappy part.
@@EricStrebel I believe start capacitors are rated to be able to start a motor only so many times per hour. If you start/stop a motor many times an hour they overheat and reduce its life. I recently changed the start cap on my shop dust vacuum and the spec's for the cap said it was able to do up to 40 starts per hour.
It would be rare for this compressor to be used more than once an hour so it really doesn't start very much, but a bigger capacitor will definitely help with that I can see that being beneficial
Lol 🤣🤣🤣 excuse me, but can I break some of your most important tools until I figure out how not to use them? Now that I'm familiar with the tools of the trade I'll be making money for someone else with tools that I didn't destroy while I was green!
You should never loosen a pipe fitting to get your components into position. If you go past where you want to be, keep tightening until you get there again
Greetings from Sterling Heights! Do you believe that a fridge compressor is capable of 125psi? Also. from reading comments it looks like this particular fridge compressor will fill the 15g tank from 75 to 100psi in about 5 minutes. It's not exactly linear but I'm guessing that each 25psi roughly translates to 5 minutes of run time - would you agree? In the original build (what looks like maybe a 6g tank) I'm assuming the fill time from 75 to 100psi was probably 2ish minutes?
I've heard people removing the oil altogether and running these things for years. I would never do my self. perhaps mineral oil or synthetic oil. I have a question... the replaced capacitor, are they very specific to the pump you are using? Or can you replace pretty generically? Thanks.
@@EricStrebel It's like instinct to respond since I had a teacher that would call us out on that and a "Twist Drill" is not a "Drill Bit". I still have awkward moments with myself in the LMC Fab Lab & elsewhere seeing drill bit labels. :-|)
You know... I've been watching a few videos about air compressors and stuff and I see that some DYI-ers put an AC Condenser & fan between the pump and tank to cool air even further before it is stored. With that in mind, I would like to see that to see how quiet it can get.
Great video but the gun suppressor comment is wayyy off. The vast majority of suppressors use some type of baffle and chamber system to cool the gasses and vent them to atmosphere slower to reduce the pop. If anything a chambered car muffler is closer in design. A suppressor for a firearm using some type of consumable media would be horrible.
Hi Eric, There are two different styles of copper compression fittings, I don't know which one you are using but, from what I can see, it's not being used correctly. With an internal ring: ruclips.net/video/KR9cQwnnHXw/видео.html Flared Style: ruclips.net/video/XCr2YTg5mKo/видео.html I've never had a compression fitting leak. Regards
Only good for blowing dust take to long to fill tank and if you try to run any tools it will empty in seconds as for spraying may work with a small brush but you will need a filter to remove water and any oil get through, these are not new I build one in the early 70s for motorcycle tyres and blowing out carbs and such. Not really worth the effort of building them.
Just like anything else piston style Engine or Pump the oil is retained by the quality and finish of your cylinder(s) and the ability of your oil control rings! Under normal running circumstances and you aren't flipping over or rolling the compressors around causing the oil to be distributed all throughout the compressor and then into places that the oil doesn't normally stay, that's the only way oil is going to be getting into the outlet of your compressors. If you're using a old or worn out compressor, then PLEASE just like a old engine that never had its oil changed in its entire life...... Than expect to be seeing some oil in the discharge tubing! As just like an older worn out engine, these things will work the same way, and consume oil into places that you wish it not to be! Like blue smoke of your exhaust system is usually caused by bad or worn out bores or rings or valve guides. The only thing that the hermetically sealed compressor has that your standard say 4 stroke does not have is valve guides to leak and or go bad. Most, but not all, compressors utilize reed valves as check valves for air direction control. The nice thing is that they are extremely reliable and last a very long time without service and do not require oil to lubricate the stems and guides to keep them moving properly. This doesn't apply to every single compressor out there and there's a multitude of different types and designs today like Scroll compressors which don't require any reciprocating masses spinning around causing harmonics or vibrations nearly as much as say a crankshaft and piston style compressor system. The scroll is a constant direction movement of air being continuously squished from beginning to end at the discharge tube, which makes them much more efficient and a little more reliable as well. Today they're using these scroll compressors which are simply identified by being a longer or tall cylindrical shape as opposed to a Mellon ball shape. The great thing about these modern scroll compressors are that they're now using motor speed controllers to regulate the compressor speeds! So when say a older AC/heat pump unit was satisfied with temperature, they'd normally shut down the compressor all together, which as we all know, sucks! As it takes more electricity to get these motors back started and running to full speed again from a dead stop against enormous amounts of head pressures sometimes, especially if it's cycling very often! The cure for this is the Speed controller and their programmed running in that, knowing it's coming close to reaching its desired temperature setting, rather than killing the power to the compressor, the speed control will start to ramp down the motor speed and bring it down to say an Idle speed for the time needed, until called upon again by the thermostat to demand more cooling or heating power. The speed control will thus begin to ramp up the compressors speed to bring it back to its most efficient running speed. This saves a ton of BS and electricity at the same time, and less likely to blow or burn up start and run capacitors as well! We have amazing technology today and it's a shame that most no one is even aware of such things today! I have worked in the refrigeration industry for over a decade now and have seen the progress in compressors and motors. The problem is we've gone backwards of course thanks to our World's leading environmentalists that believe only the US and certain EU countries have to obey their government guidelines for their use of certain amazingly powerful refrigerant gases!!! Meanwhile the rest of the world still uses R-12 and R-22 for their everyday AC/Heating devices. But because we're the biggest @ssholes in this world, we choose to do the simplest things the hardest and most expensive ways possible! Like trying to use C02 as a refrigerant gas! Does it work yes..... if you call it that? It requires much much higher pressures to operate over say R134A and of course in doing so requires much more power to operate a system of the same BTU displacement using a old good gas! So how's this progress? Were burning more fuels to make the same effects? Seems like a Democrat has been involved in such a thing! Being if it's not broken, leave it to them and they'll find the solution before finding the actual problem with these things HMM? Science and mechanical engineering has been destroyed by these scumbags who believe they have answers for problems that don't exist yet! But that's another story for another day! If you want the best and most efficient way to cool something using the least amount of energy consumption? Use what Nasholes use! (NASA) uses to this day Ammonia based refrigeration systems that really require nothing more than a tealite candle to power these said systems! Meaning that in space, just having the huge differentials in temperatures between light and darkness these systems can almost run entirely off solar power as long as nothing leaks of course (AKA) the Ammonia. It's a little more expensive than say you normal junk built AC units and requires good quality stainless steel or something of equivalent in corrosion resistance, but our first refrigeration systems we had here were all based off of the Ammonia based refrigeration effects. Because Ammonia has a low boiling point and it will self condense at basically room temperature and atmospheric pressures. This way you do not need to have electricity to pump it into a phase change (from a liquid to a gas) with what they use to use was a natural gas pilot light to supply enough energy to cause the Ammonia to transition from a liquid to a gas, thus absorbing the heat as energy from the surrounding area and it turns back into a liquid on its own and the cycle is perpetual in nature. I believe some Campers and RVs still use Ammonia based Refrigeration systems that use the on board propane to supply the necessary heat/energy to make the Ammonia transition into a gaseous state, thus creating pressure and the cooling effects when phase changed through a capillary tube into a large low pressure tubing we magically have cooling effects. The gas runs through a set of external cooling tubes called the (condenser) on the outside of said fridge or AC unit and as it cools down from absorbing heat from the interior of the fridge or building, it releases its energy as a form of heat and the gas condensates back into its natural state of liquid Ammonia thus completing the cycle and it doesn't require fans but they are kind of a necessity for AC to move larger amounts of air around. But they DON'T Need compressors to operate! At ALL! We've been lied to and deceived by our leaders and society as a whole! This way we pay for each and every little thing in our lives, especially if they're considered a convenience to us and not a necessity! God Bless and wake the hell up, we're all at war with the same overloards who've figured out how to scam the scammers out of everything today! But we can take back our freedoms and liberties if you are willing to do the work! Which starts with you as the individual! You are the key between being a pawn and dependent upon your government, or educating yourselves and learning about how everything is supposed to work in this world. It's definitely not easy to achieve, but it's also NOT impossible either! The proper education can set you free! Also makes us a danger to the ones who wish to control or structure your lives by the needing to pay for every little thing in this world today! We have options, unfortunately many are just too lazy to seek them out for themselves. Good luck with the future and let's hope we change this BS for the betterment of the world in a whole! God knows we all need this to happen and the sooner the better I think! ❤❤❤😊
@@EricStrebel I`m surprised it doesnt get toasty and trip the internal thermal cutout. I`d expect it to run for least 7 minutes to fill the 6gal tank from 0-120psi and 17 minutes 47 seconds for the 15 gallon tank. The theoretical maximum free air flow from the compressor is 0.92cfm., you can expect 10-15% less in real life. I would run it with 280ml of non foaming, mineral based hydraulic oil.
Liked the etching with the laser idea!
DIY3DTECH.com Thanks, makes layout pretty easy actually and very precise. Feel free to share on social media
The silencer is a thing of beauty. The last 5 Hp compressor I put together was so noisy I ran a PVC air intake through the shop wall and used a Dodge pickup air filter and housing to strain out the wasps... still a hammering puppy. I envy your new setup.
Mark Koons Thanks, glad you like it, Feel free to share on social media.
Really love how you're promoting best practices, like doing preventative maintenance while the machine is disassembled anyway.
LOL! right
Great video, and content on your channel. Please stop telling people to like and subscribe 5 times a video, your not a 12 year old you tuber and your audience is paying more attention then most.
Thanks to you i built my compressor and been using it for last 3yr and served me well
Sweet!
Eric Strebel one thing i did was used a lawn mower filter to quiet mines and works great I used a craftsman Tire Air tank and replaced safety valve with and 125psi instead of 150 psi . however i didn't use on and off pressure switch instead i got heavy duty light switch and wall plate and box i flip it on and off when need be . i build models and its perfect . one thing i did do was mount my tank upside down so when i blow tank anything inside comes out and i leave ball valve open till next use
Wow, very cool, thanks for sharing, I like the filter tip, well done if you share a picture on social media tag @botzendesign so I can see
@@EricStrebel I don't use Twitter . I only use Facebook . But if you want to see it i can message you and you post it not problem
My family had a Coast to Coast store in the 90's. I miss those labels
Awesome, exactly what I was looking for. Thanks a lot for all the detail !!!!!
You are a maker nerd!!! Your channel and descriptions one how you think are inspirational. Thx!
Paul Devey Thanks, feel free to share on social media, much appreciated
So cool. I've got the fridge compressor waiting, now waiting for a donated tank, but your video inspired me. I may go out and buy one. . . Just awesome work
Awesome, go for it, good luck! Woot woot
agree sir Robert
@@EricStrebel Thoughtful comments.....My respects to you sir Eric
Nice build. You may want to review contemporary suppressor design, baffles and fiber have long ago (30+ years) been replaced.
I have been stuff with chambers as well, is this what you are referring to?
I was referring to a K style baffle used in a suppressor for a firearm, ref @12:50.
HOLY COW! Now I gotta build an NFA item for my air compressor!!!
Excellent experience will done ✅
Thank you 😄👍
Wow.. brings back memories of when we filmed the first 1. How did soldering go.? first time around that was a major pain.. its now a HUGE tank.. omg..
Stephen Strebel :-) soldering was a breeze this time. Missed you on this build
Nice, I also make my own 10 gallons silent air compressor, for my airbrushing. May I make a suggestion, since I change the oil that came with my fridge compressor for synthetic oil I add it a 120v computer fan that helps to cool down the compressor, since it takes more time to fill up the tank, and it works great!
Good idea
Sir how to connect compressor to automatic pressure switch without over load and relay thank you
Fantastic video.
Martin Coetzee thanks! Feel free to share on social media
Thank you for the speedy reply , I have one compressor that is an early full , thanks Eric.
Great video. Recently got rid of my old Craftsman compressor because it was simply too loud. Thanks for sharing! Cheers! : )
Thanks for the comment, much appreciated, rock on!
Firearm silencers have a baffle stack or expansion chambers inside, not sound absorbing material. They aren't glass pack mufflers.
Any specs or links on the capacitor and regulator you used please? Nice video, thanks!
I just wish you could have been more detailed on how to connect (wiring diagram) the capacitor
Nice!
nice
Keep in mind you can use that compressor as a serious vacuum pump (tee into inlet and put 2 valves and a vacuum line). But I wouldn’t try to do both build pressure and pull a vacuum at the same time. The new capacitor is a hard start kit, because these little compressors are not designed to start against a load. (You would have to open a valve to release the pressure on line so it would start) once it’s going, it can go up to about 450psi...
As always impressive work! I have some questions about this new build: 1.- How big is the compressor in HP? 2.- How long does it take to fill the whole 15 gallons? and lastly: 3.- How many watts it consumes when running? Thanks!
Edu Fregoso wow, all good questions that I don't know the answers to, they are irrelevant to me based on my needs, You only fill it up once from 0 psi. Tank gets filled between 75 and 100 psi when in use, maybe takes 5 minutes to fill up again. Feel free to share on social media
How about a video on how you made and attached that silencer?
Karl Lautman Old Shaving cream can, move plastic top and plug on bottom, stuff with brass wool, get lucky and find brass manifold from something broken and assemble :-)
I'm building one for airbrush so I won't need a very high pressure of volume. I was thinking of using the small coil and fan that I scavenged of the original machine and attaching it just aft. the pump.. adding a small dip tank with copper wool to remove the moisture.
Sounds good, I would consider putting a water trap on the output of mine
Very nice video and good work.
Couple of comments.
You didn’t address the unloader valve. What did you do there?
Also, silencers for guns are not stuffed with sound absorbing material. They a baffled inside. I’m sure you can reduce the report with brass wool or something, but it’s not typical.
Thanks
Wow.. such a great channel ;) subscribed and liked the ones that i could wrap my head around ;p great job..
one question, you made a mounting plate for the compressor, but why then glue the power in connector? you could've made a small mounting plate for that?
andygozzo72 you are absolutely correct, I considered it, but decided that it was to difficult to fabricate vs just bonding it in place. If I had laser cut or water jet the metal part then I would have done it in a heart beat. Thanks for your comment, feel free to share on social media, that helps me out the most. Rock on!
It can be use for painting?
Eh, light duty, air brush or a minimal amount of use with a touch up gun.
Eric, the working pressure for a 1/8 to 1" copper solder joint is about 200 PSI or 14 bar. What is the max pressure you can obtain?
I run my tank at 100 psi max pressure
Hi! i see u use normal motor oil 10w40... did u have any problems with overheating ? is it mineral oil or syntetic one?
Ideally you want to use a non detergent oil since these motors don't have a pump I merely use 1040 for the additional protection the 40 weight offers. I do not have any issues with overheating.
I've been a Subscriber but you just got a lot more respect from me with the Motorhead sticker💪🤘🏿👊👍👂🎸🎼🎶🎵🎤
Chris gilliam rock on! 🤘 Motörhead rules
I thought you would have lost oil from the compressor too. Thanks for covering that. I was under the impression that the freon used for AC units had oil in it that was needed to lube the compressor. I guess that was bad info since yours has been working for quite a while now. I enjoyed the video. I'll share this one with the Shop Hacks Facebook group too. I think they are going to love it.
How's the production going for your backpack hanger? Congrats on getting your Kickstarter funded!
Shop Hacks thank you for the share, much appreciated. The Backpack hanger is going well. I sent off the production documentation this morning, I am sure there will be a bit of back and forth for the next few days. Monies were released form Kickstarter on Monday, things are moving forward! woot woot! Thanks for asking. I am excited to get it into production.
@@EricStrebel I'm enjoying following your story along with the tech tip videos. I don't know how your general audience would respond to updates about your backpack hanger journey but I'd love to hear all about it as you go.
Keep up the good work.
shop hacks there will be at least one more vid on the mater, probably vlog style when they arrive and get shipped out.
Wow Eric, great video very detailed and helpful and clean finished job at that...
but can i ask for a bit more detailed help/info regarding building a two in one compressor build???
how can i build a compressor that can run:
1- my airbrush kit
2- can vacuum
3- can build up pressure for a pressure chamber???
for the chamber it will be logical to use a pressure cooking pot with its modified own lid, and a seperate one for the vacuum..
but what kinda other parts do i need?? and how the physics should work :D got he briefest idea and thats all. i can picture the algorithm but the actual parts and flow is blank :D ahahaha
i ve been looking for such a detailed tutorial, and your diy comp video has caught my eye..
i really would appreciate it if you can maybe list and write a brief how to.. cause a video would be asking waaaay too much :D or would it?? only you know :D
thnxs for your time and patience :D
stay healthy and strong in these times and keep on doing the great, clean and helpful job u r doing
cheers
Very interesting. What sort of compressor oil would this take?
I used 10/30 or 10/40
Hi Eric, amazing video as always🤩. Thanks for sharing.
How is the temperature build up of the compressor during the time running the compressor?
Low
@7:47 in the video- you should totally repaint the compressor tank-head unit as a Boba-Fett or some Android - like the vid- followed you for awhile- like the upgrade! Bravo and Cheers!
Any idea how much cfm a compressor like that puts out?
Nope, pretty low though
Does water ever accumulates in compressor tanks?
Yes, it can, thus a drain of some sort is a good thing to have.
@@EricStrebel could you alleviate that by putting a condenser before the tank? I saw someone else modify theirs with a condenser and filter to catch the water and drain it as it runs instead of it going into the tank.
Good idea actually
Awesome job , where can a guy find the brass wool ?
Probably at a wood worker store, or Ebey or Amazon
🤘🤘🤘 Motorhead 🤘🤘🤘
Great job
Loved the first build love this one too one question can you make it into a vacuum pump as well as a compressor?
Eh, possibly.....
ruclips.net/video/BeiW_37rS-U/видео.html
It can easily work with pneumatic cylinder?
Perhaps, but I really have no idea
Are 60 gallon tanks too much for 1 of them? Maybe sit 2 of them on top of a 60 gallon tank?
Yeah, that might even be a bit much for two of them
I’d even go 3 or 4 just to have a quiet air source in my shop but 4 is a bit much when thinking about powering them. How much power do they need to run?
How do you find the compressor heat dissipation and duty cycle?
Minimal, it never runs long enough to get warm, much less hot
@@EricStrebel Ive been meaning to convert my existing one, much like your first conversion to the fridge compressor as we have street waste collection every few months and there are a number of fridges on the kerbside. I just need to finish my workshop build first :)
great job! i have a question about the oil. are you use the oil for car engine to exchange the original oil inside the compressor?
Yes
How much pressure you can get from that compressor?
A lot, i have mine set to 100.
Armchair'n this... As a lazy innovator... I'd simply mount the small tank on top of the large tank... connect them with a staged dryer and valve... and good to go.. 21 gallons and extra dry air.
recommended safe operating pressure for tank?
Depends on your tanks rating
Alot more than the safety valve will allow
how big is the air outflow? Thanks.
More than adequate for everyday shop use
@@EricStrebel does that mean that it can run normally random orbit sander 125mm?
If i missed it sorry. How long does it take to fill the tank from empty.
maybe 10-12 minutes
Would a silencer like that work on a normal (twin) cylinder compressor as well?
Yes, if you can build a nanafold, to attach the silencer
@@EricStrebel I currently have a simple "air filter" attached to it. Simple plastic box with (I think) a small block of foam in it. I'd possibly be able to attach it in its place, possibly just 3D print an adapter for it.
Yeah, try and see if that works, watch the heat build up on the printed part, good excuse to make a sand cast part if it shows promise
I like this....when said "sheet metal porn" i lost it....and the "money shot " is perfect...slo mo and all....👍👍
What kind of use do you put this through? Is this thing something that runs 10 hours year or a hundred hours a month? I'm thinking about using a reefer compressor to aerate my pond.
I bet it runs 10 hours a month. Light shop use, perfect for my needs, the larger tank helps when you need some extra for a project
what an awesome video, thanks for sharing!! The silencer, can you explain where it came from ? where to get something like that? thanks
It's a metal can with a small hole on the opposite end of the large opening filled with brass wool, works very well, basically how gun silencers are made
@@EricStrebel If you go to Indonesia, hopefully you can play at SMKN 3 Pekalongan, Central Java.....matur nuwon
How to wire up the compressor, can i just direct use life n neutral wire to compressor?
What oil do you use for the compressor?
10/40
success for "Eric Strebel"
How long did that take to fill?? Must take forever!
I've got a window ac compresor that I made to an air compresor do I need to add oil and were do I add it and how much.
Have no idea, sorry
How do you get a used compressor that is good ? Isn't that what goes bad first ?
Probably a silly question, but would u sell the small silent compressor? How much if so?
How long does it take to fill the tank to 100 psi?
From 70 to 100 takes about 5 minutes
What kind of CFM are you getting out of that little guy?
Very low, not sure of the numbers
What are you running off of it if you don't mind me asking? I've got big shop air with the mindset of big is never big enough.... Is a disease.
Just air for blowing off stuff and pressurizing my pressure pot for casting and sometimes clear coat from a mini gun
I love you channel
Having a problem with mine when I put the on/off Pressure into the wiring. I can't get it to kick on. [It Kicks off at a 100 PSI and Kicks back on again at 55PSI]
But it's not kicking on but if I wire it without that, it runs.
You need a one way check valve before the tank, so the compressor does not need to turn on against the pressure of the tank.
I have that it's the pressure switch that turns the pump on at 70PSI and off at 100 PSI. When I run the power through that. It will not run when I bypass it. It runs, but will not shut off Making it dangerous if left on the pressure switch is supposed to stop it at 100 PSI. It screws into the tank and has 2 prongs. For electric
I guess the pressure switch is faulty then, sounds like you need a new one
I got 2 new ones and not sure if I need a relay not sure
The pressure switch is essentially a relay that is turned on and off by the pressure that sends a signal to the motor for it to turn on and off
Hi! Love your build and thinking about making something similar, I was wondering, how long it takes to fill the original tank(old build) and how long does it take to fill up(to 100 PSI) this one? Thanks!
Perhaps it took 5 to 7 minutes on the original one this one maybe takes 10 to 12 minutes, empty. Normally it just fills up between 60 and 100 psi so it never goes to zero
Hi. Great video!!! I have a question for you. I got an old 1/2 HP Tecumseh compressor and built a silent air compressor with it for my hobby projects. I used a new SS Relay, new thermal overload protector and new pressure switch. Everything works fine. I've set the pressure switch cut out at about 90 psi and cut in about 60 psi but I've noticed that the compressor overload protector trips when the compressor tries to cut in under pressure. I have to depressurize the tank down to about 30 psi in order for the compressor to cut in smoothly. Is this normal or is there possibly something wrong??
Not sure, it could be a load issue with the compressor itself.
@@EricStrebel Thanks for the feedback!
Did you intall one way check valve.?
@@rodelago5591 thanks for responding! Yes I did install a check valve but funny you asked because I was thinking maybe that could be the problem. I suspect that perhaps the check valve is defective. I think I'll replace it one of these good days and see if anything changes. Cheers!
@@andreb877 Did it help? Was it bad?
Are Motorhead stickers the equivalent of racing stripes on Cars? Makes the compressor faster?
Made 2 Hack, LOL it adds decibels :-)
Question: I am in the process of building one, but my compressor dont have the capacitor what would happen if I run it without one?
It needs it to start I believe.
@@EricStrebel but it does start when I plug it into the wall outlet, just want to know if it can work like that without any problems, when I removed it from the appliance it was missing..
how long does it take to fill that tank please? Ive got a 50 ltr v twin compressor now that is noisey, and was thinking of putting a fridge compressor inline so when im doing small jobs, it can be working away, but when i need to spray i can put the big compressor on.. thanks
About 10-12minutes to fill the tank.
thankyou. i was thinking that i could chain 2 compressors together , but maybe 1 will be enough. On ebay they are £30 ea new. thankyou
Good luck with your project
Awesome video here as always, well done Eric. May I ask what aftermarket capacitor did you use?
I have no idea, I got it from my friend Joe after the old one went bad.
Que tipo de aceite lleva y cuánto cantidad de aceite lleva
Can one be built for me?
Just a matter of money, contact me www.botzen.com include your location, specs and budget.
Just a matter of money, contact me www.botzen.com include your location, specs and budget.
FYI - refrigerator motors have a low on/off duty cycle. They burn out if the motors stay on too long. You have to be careful using tanks so large that the SMALL piston take to long to fill, the motor will become overheated. They work better with small 1 gal tanks. Thus they work best for things that do not require large volumes of air; like an airbrush.
You could of course use multiple refrigerator compressors on one tank.
Instead of a refrigerator compressor a commercial AC compressor would be better. They work great with near 100% duty cycles
@@OakKnobFarm Thanks for the advice. I happen to visit a local scrapyard three or four days a week. They’re mostly industrial Scrap but they get dozens and dozens of massive tractor trailer truck size HVAC units that come in regularly. And regular sized units also.
Is there anything specific I should look out for? Since I literally have hundreds of compressors to pick from… I want to get what’s best suited. I plan on putting a single or maybe double compressors on a 20-ish gallon tank. I do industrial circuit board repair and test equipment calibration. So I use my tank for cleaning and moisture removal… i use it more than any total in my shop. Considering a small squirt of 100% alcohol… Followed by good tight blast of air will clean and remove almost any debris or contaminants.
I only run about 50 psi… so to not potentially lift the circuitboard copper traces or blow off the solder mask. However that 50 psi seems more like 100 because I’m running through a very small diameter airbrush hose, And attached to the end of my blow gun is a basketball inflating needle. So even though I’m using 50 psi pretty much around the clock… The tiny diameter of the inflation needle means I’m using a very low volume of air. Right now my 30 gallon tank last me pretty much all day.
Just wondering what would be best and I appreciate any info you can give. Also… How long would your average HVAC compressor take to pump up a 20 gallon tank?
Hi sir : what kind of oil i have to use for my Refrigerator Air Compressor ?
I used 10/40 weight oil
@@EricStrebel could you use compressor oil? The type you can buy for air compressors.
Yes, it's a very light weight oil made for compressors, I don't see why not.
I’m having difficulty understanding this and although I know mechanics and I weld, here is the program logic schematics for this? Please confirm friends:
1. Tank has 3 outlets: bottom purge for water, air in from compressor, air out to accessories
2. The compressor has three outlets: Air in from room (black silencer Can), air out (compressed) to Number 2 of tank (air in) and number three Oil ??
I’m assuming the 4th line the Freon Lone gets capped off? I didn’t see that on the 2016 vid
3. Tank’s compressed Air IN pipes have nothing more than a one way check valve?
4. The Tanks out Valve seems the most complicated at:
4.1.: Three Tee
4.2.: 125 psi relief valve
4.3.: Pressure regulator
4.4.: Four Tee
4.5: Pressure Valve
4.5.: Switch
Not understanding where the capacitor came in and why it blew up
Also: what is the final Emptying ratio compared to the old orange one?
Took 20 mins to fill up
And how long to empty
Vs the new one
Ok thx great stuff
compressor has one outlet, this is where we fill the tank with air, and one inlet, this is where the air comes in trough the silencer can, and one for the oil (just has a rubber plug in it) Outlet can be configured any way you want for your set up. Have no idea how long to empty, I never use it like that, I guess it would depend on your outlet flow rate and what you have hoked up. Don't full understand why the capacitor died either, probably was a crappy part.
@@EricStrebel I believe start capacitors are rated to be able to start a motor only so many times per hour. If you start/stop a motor many times an hour they overheat and reduce its life. I recently changed the start cap on my shop dust vacuum and the spec's for the cap said it was able to do up to 40 starts per hour.
It would be rare for this compressor to be used more than once an hour so it really doesn't start very much, but a bigger capacitor will definitely help with that I can see that being beneficial
Man we have all these machine, but don’t know how to use any of them
Lol 🤣🤣🤣 excuse me, but can I break some of your most important tools until I figure out how not to use them?
Now that I'm familiar with the tools of the trade I'll be making money for someone else with tools that I didn't destroy while I was green!
Maybe not for the avg joe
You should never loosen a pipe fitting to get your components into position. If you go past where you want to be, keep tightening until you get there again
Greetings from Sterling Heights! Do you believe that a fridge compressor is capable of 125psi? Also. from reading comments it looks like this particular fridge compressor will fill the 15g tank from 75 to 100psi in about 5 minutes. It's not exactly linear but I'm guessing that each 25psi roughly translates to 5 minutes of run time - would you agree? In the original build (what looks like maybe a 6g tank) I'm assuming the fill time from 75 to 100psi was probably 2ish minutes?
Greetings..Yeah, I think of your tank is rated for the 125psi the compressor should be able to pull it off, the other specs are correct.
I've heard people removing the oil altogether and running these things for years. I would never do my self. perhaps mineral oil or synthetic oil. I have a question... the replaced capacitor, are they very specific to the pump you are using? Or can you replace pretty generically? Thanks.
They seem to be generic
@@EricStrebel Ver good Thanks Much!
Hexagonal Socket Bolt... a.k.a. Allen Bolt or Allen Head Bolt. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hex_key Great video as always, thanks for sharing!
jafinch hahahah, right, thanks for clearing that up, hehehehehe
@@EricStrebel It's like instinct to respond since I had a teacher that would call us out on that and a "Twist Drill" is not a "Drill Bit". I still have awkward moments with myself in the LMC Fab Lab & elsewhere seeing drill bit labels. :-|)
Yeah, no worries, good info for the people who read the comments, all good!
0:35 Nice one. And then followed by the über German pronunciation.
This Sucks Swiss pronunciation, actually 😀🇨🇭 Thanks for your support,. I really appreciate it. Feel free to share on social media.
I made it I have a bigger one
Awesome
You know... I've been watching a few videos about air compressors and stuff and I see that some DYI-ers put an AC Condenser & fan between the pump and tank to cool air even further before it is stored.
With that in mind, I would like to see that to see how quiet it can get.
It's pretty quiet right now, can't see it getting much quieter.
Great video but the gun suppressor comment is wayyy off. The vast majority of suppressors use some type of baffle and chamber system to cool the gasses and vent them to atmosphere slower to reduce the pop. If anything a chambered car muffler is closer in design. A suppressor for a firearm using some type of consumable media would be horrible.
Ok, whatever
@@EricStrebel you're welcome for reducing your ignorance on the matter 👌
Right
My cat did not like when you took the silencer off.
Not made for cats
Hi Eric,
There are two different styles of copper compression fittings, I don't know which one you are using but, from what I can see, it's not being used correctly.
With an internal ring:
ruclips.net/video/KR9cQwnnHXw/видео.html
Flared Style:
ruclips.net/video/XCr2YTg5mKo/видео.html
I've never had a compression fitting leak.
Regards
flagmedownmedia thanks for your comment. Feel free to share on social media
You could use the compressor as a vacuum pump too but it looks like you probably already have one
Correct, you could.
... you got a tax stamp for that silencer good sir?
Ho dear we are in trouble !
i subscribed after I heard the term "sheet metal porn"
😀
Only good for blowing dust take to long to fill tank and if you try to run any tools it will empty in seconds as for spraying may work with a small brush but you will need a filter to remove water and any oil get through, these are not new I build one in the early 70s for motorcycle tyres and blowing out carbs and such. Not really worth the effort of building them.
That's exactly what it is good for, works fantastic for blowing off stuff, definitely can not run air tools.
flux.
Right
Just like anything else piston style Engine or Pump the oil is retained by the quality and finish of your cylinder(s) and the ability of your oil control rings! Under normal running circumstances and you aren't flipping over or rolling the compressors around causing the oil to be distributed all throughout the compressor and then into places that the oil doesn't normally stay, that's the only way oil is going to be getting into the outlet of your compressors. If you're using a old or worn out compressor, then PLEASE just like a old engine that never had its oil changed in its entire life...... Than expect to be seeing some oil in the discharge tubing! As just like an older worn out engine, these things will work the same way, and consume oil into places that you wish it not to be! Like blue smoke of your exhaust system is usually caused by bad or worn out bores or rings or valve guides. The only thing that the hermetically sealed compressor has that your standard say 4 stroke does not have is valve guides to leak and or go bad. Most, but not all, compressors utilize reed valves as check valves for air direction control. The nice thing is that they are extremely reliable and last a very long time without service and do not require oil to lubricate the stems and guides to keep them moving properly. This doesn't apply to every single compressor out there and there's a multitude of different types and designs today like Scroll compressors which don't require any reciprocating masses spinning around causing harmonics or vibrations nearly as much as say a crankshaft and piston style compressor system. The scroll is a constant direction movement of air being continuously squished from beginning to end at the discharge tube, which makes them much more efficient and a little more reliable as well. Today they're using these scroll compressors which are simply identified by being a longer or tall cylindrical shape as opposed to a Mellon ball shape. The great thing about these modern scroll compressors are that they're now using motor speed controllers to regulate the compressor speeds! So when say a older AC/heat pump unit was satisfied with temperature, they'd normally shut down the compressor all together, which as we all know, sucks! As it takes more electricity to get these motors back started and running to full speed again from a dead stop against enormous amounts of head pressures sometimes, especially if it's cycling very often! The cure for this is the Speed controller and their programmed running in that, knowing it's coming close to reaching its desired temperature setting, rather than killing the power to the compressor, the speed control will start to ramp down the motor speed and bring it down to say an Idle speed for the time needed, until called upon again by the thermostat to demand more cooling or heating power. The speed control will thus begin to ramp up the compressors speed to bring it back to its most efficient running speed. This saves a ton of BS and electricity at the same time, and less likely to blow or burn up start and run capacitors as well! We have amazing technology today and it's a shame that most no one is even aware of such things today! I have worked in the refrigeration industry for over a decade now and have seen the progress in compressors and motors. The problem is we've gone backwards of course thanks to our World's leading environmentalists that believe only the US and certain EU countries have to obey their government guidelines for their use of certain amazingly powerful refrigerant gases!!! Meanwhile the rest of the world still uses R-12 and R-22 for their everyday AC/Heating devices. But because we're the biggest @ssholes in this world, we choose to do the simplest things the hardest and most expensive ways possible! Like trying to use C02 as a refrigerant gas! Does it work yes..... if you call it that? It requires much much higher pressures to operate over say R134A and of course in doing so requires much more power to operate a system of the same BTU displacement using a old good gas! So how's this progress? Were burning more fuels to make the same effects? Seems like a Democrat has been involved in such a thing! Being if it's not broken, leave it to them and they'll find the solution before finding the actual problem with these things HMM? Science and mechanical engineering has been destroyed by these scumbags who believe they have answers for problems that don't exist yet! But that's another story for another day! If you want the best and most efficient way to cool something using the least amount of energy consumption? Use what Nasholes use! (NASA) uses to this day Ammonia based refrigeration systems that really require nothing more than a tealite candle to power these said systems! Meaning that in space, just having the huge differentials in temperatures between light and darkness these systems can almost run entirely off solar power as long as nothing leaks of course (AKA) the Ammonia. It's a little more expensive than say you normal junk built AC units and requires good quality stainless steel or something of equivalent in corrosion resistance, but our first refrigeration systems we had here were all based off of the Ammonia based refrigeration effects. Because Ammonia has a low boiling point and it will self condense at basically room temperature and atmospheric pressures. This way you do not need to have electricity to pump it into a phase change (from a liquid to a gas) with what they use to use was a natural gas pilot light to supply enough energy to cause the Ammonia to transition from a liquid to a gas, thus absorbing the heat as energy from the surrounding area and it turns back into a liquid on its own and the cycle is perpetual in nature. I believe some Campers and RVs still use Ammonia based Refrigeration systems that use the on board propane to supply the necessary heat/energy to make the Ammonia transition into a gaseous state, thus creating pressure and the cooling effects when phase changed through a capillary tube into a large low pressure tubing we magically have cooling effects. The gas runs through a set of external cooling tubes called the (condenser) on the outside of said fridge or AC unit and as it cools down from absorbing heat from the interior of the fridge or building, it releases its energy as a form of heat and the gas condensates back into its natural state of liquid Ammonia thus completing the cycle and it doesn't require fans but they are kind of a necessity for AC to move larger amounts of air around. But they DON'T Need compressors to operate! At ALL! We've been lied to and deceived by our leaders and society as a whole! This way we pay for each and every little thing in our lives, especially if they're considered a convenience to us and not a necessity! God Bless and wake the hell up, we're all at war with the same overloards who've figured out how to scam the scammers out of everything today! But we can take back our freedoms and liberties if you are willing to do the work! Which starts with you as the individual! You are the key between being a pawn and dependent upon your government, or educating yourselves and learning about how everything is supposed to work in this world. It's definitely not easy to achieve, but it's also NOT impossible either! The proper education can set you free! Also makes us a danger to the ones who wish to control or structure your lives by the needing to pay for every little thing in this world today! We have options, unfortunately many are just too lazy to seek them out for themselves. Good luck with the future and let's hope we change this BS for the betterment of the world in a whole! God knows we all need this to happen and the sooner the better I think! ❤❤❤😊
Do you have a way to keep oil in the compressor crank case
Thanks for sharing. No fan, does the compressor heat up?
Barely
@@EricStrebel
I`m surprised it doesnt get toasty and trip the internal thermal cutout. I`d expect it to run for least 7 minutes to fill the 6gal tank from 0-120psi and 17 minutes 47 seconds for the 15 gallon tank. The theoretical maximum free air flow from the compressor is 0.92cfm., you can expect 10-15% less in real life. I would run it with 280ml of non foaming, mineral based hydraulic oil.
Runs with 10/40 motor oil currently
@@EricStrebel
I `d recommend shell tellus 68 or equivalent.
Yeah, I probably should run a non detergent type oil when I switch it out next time