If you end up having frosting problems/over-desaturation problems with your varnish, you can almost perfectly save them by applying a coat of gloss varnish over the frosted layer. For the most part it will entirely save the project and undo the frosting, from there you can apply a new coat of your preferred varnish over that to bring back the finish you want. Matte will always seemingly desaturate your colors, whereas gloss will accentuate them, due to the way they absorb and reflect light. Satin is a perfect middle ground for a uniform finish that isn't shiny and enough to be distracting, but also not matte enough to lose the true color.
The frost happened to me when I sprayed Krylon Matte Finish (which I love) But I did too much and they looked dusty. So I waste them with soap and water, dried and sprayed a Satin Varnish and they looked perfect.
The only reason for frosting i found out with my models was always about the temperature. I only use rattle cans, and what I do is I make sure the place is dry enough and my can of varnish had took a good 2-3 minutes shake after ~25-27 Celsius water bath. Never had frosting again in my life.
I got a terrible frosting from gw:s munitorum varnish rattle can. I tried the gloss varnish trick but it didn't do anything, now it just looks shiny and frosty. I've never had such problems with army painter's varnish spray.
Gloss, then satin, then matt. Think "fractally" as it were. Your matt acrylic base layers have a grainy texture. Straight matt varnish will add to that grain. A gloss coat will seal with a smooth, hard, layer. Progressing through satin to matt will then bring down the shine without having "grains on grains" and will make your colours really pop.
I've heard this before but never seen someone demonstrate it, proving the theory. I've always thought matte spray, and brush on thinned satin and gloss to get what finish you want on specific sections. Anything to make it simpler, outside of waiting time, would be a great boon.
@@rodericklenz5030 Why do that when I can wait for someone else to do it? Like Russian and trains, heh. I'm actually planning on trying it next time I varnish. I just don't have an airbrush so I haven't thought it a good idea to do with rattlecans or brush-on.
@@walkerawhite4698 buddy, don't be intimidated by brushing it on at all, especially on minis. I use Micro (as in Micro sol/set) clear coats and do the whole process with a brush, but any good self-leveling clear gloss will brush on easier than most colours. Just remember: brush strokes are either caused by thick sticky paint, or poor pigment dispersion through the medium. The second part isn't an issue for clear coats, and the first is basic ;). That said, I'd break out the airbrush for anything Redemptor sized or bigger.
I actually asked Vince Venturella how to deal with varnishing metallics. And his reply was to skip varnishing for metallics - it's the only way to preserve properties of metallic paint. So my current solution for varnishing is that I use brush to apply different varnishes to different parts of the model. Here is my process: 1. Brush on gloss varnish on all the parts of the model that are not metallic. This is for protection. 2. Brush on matt varnish on most parts: armor, weapon casing etc. 3. Brush on satin varnish on things I want to be more glossy: skin, fabric etc. 4. Optional: Brush on additional coat of gloss varnish on things like gems, glass etc. For metallics I mix in some Vallejo Metal Varnish with them when I'm painting. This solves 2 problems I had with Vallejo Metal Color paints: they were too flowy for detailed brush work and it makes them rock hard when cured - no need for additional varnish on top.
I add my metallics after the matt varnish - you can also brush different varnishes on seperate areas to get a certain finish, adding another layer of contrast (for example matt for the armour - satin for skin - and gloss for metallics)
Testor's Dullcote spray preserves 80% of the metallic sheen while being beautifully satin everywhere else. I can't tell you how they do that, it's almost like magic.
I'll do the same or purposely hit them with matt, then come back after they dry with the original metallics to give different levels of shine to metal objects.
After a lot of trial and error, I always use a 50/50 mix of Vallejo Matt and Satin Varnish, diluted with water, sprayed through the airbrush at about 30 psi. No frosting, no air bubbles, lots of control and a good balance for all types of different surfaces.
@Maxime Nerrière Oh, I see! I use the "100% acrylic resin" version. Though I've heard good things about the Mecha line too. I have a whole video about varnish on my channel if you want to check it out?
Litle explanation there ... what does matte varnish do to matten your model? It's a clear coat right? Well it simply creates an uneven surface, reduceing light reflection and thus creating the matte effect. So what you call foggy is just the matte varnish doing it's job. If you want to tone it down there are several ways to do so. A) mixing your varnish with satin or gloss varnish. Those create a smother surface, so by mixing those you will shift your result into the wanted direction. B) varnish everything matte and brush on gloss varnish over the parts you want to keep shiny / reflective / vibrant. C) polish. Grab a polishing cloth and polish the parts back up until you are happy with the result. With polishing you are smoothing the surface the varnish roughend and thus you reduce the mattening effect. This explains why your rebel tank gets more vibrant again when you brush on water. The water creates a smooth surface, stops breaking the light and the paint can be seen unhindered. It's not as if the frosty varnish has pigments or anything in it ... it's clear and the only difference is the surface texture. By editing the surface texture you can edit the result.
A little thought. If most of the model needs to be - for example - matt, you could airbrush the whole thing so it's matt, and then come back and hand brush gloss or satin over bits that could dowith being shinier?
A few recipes I've seen at game stores. Vallejo satin varnish coat then a coat of Windsor and Newton Matt varnish spray. Liquitex Matt varnish with a small amount of satin Liquitex Matt varnish with a small amount of Vallejo Matt. Liquitex Matt varnish with a small amount of gloss, this was applied with a brush to metallic areas. Personally Vallejo airbrush thinner helps me get a smooth coat with a brush.
I am going to try and cram as much info in as few words as possible, but this could easily be a whole video. 1. Your mini should rarely have the same finish across the entire surface. If you look at a reference pic, you will notice different textures have different finishes. You can add extra contrast and realism by being tactical with your varnish. Start with an all over satin varnish, then pick out areas to be matte/gloss with a brush. 2. (Satin) Varnish before applying weathering powder and then fix the powder with a fixer (never seal powder with varnish). The fixer is enough to keep the pigment in place and doesnt alter the finish like a varnish. Common pigment fixer is just mineral spirits. The matte pigment will have major contrast with the satin underneath it. 3. If you use oil/enamels for weathering, varnish before you apply them, but not after. They are tough products when fully cured and you dont want to alter the finish. 4. Liquitex mediums are my personal recommendation for varnishes in my own videos. I have used it for years, it's cheap, and has never failed me. Make sure to thin it per the bottle's recommendation. Off the top of my head, matte and gloss need thinning, but satin does not.
I use the following: Citadel Lahmian Medium is the best but that's gonna get expensive. Use the Air Cast thinner for airbrush. Liquitex varnish can work too. Use Liquitex Airbrush Thinner, not water or at least a flow improver. Citadel Munitorum Varnish is surprisingly very good. Go in shallow passes and let layers thoroughly dry in between to avoid build up and hazing. Hope this helps.
I've been using Liquitex matte varnish from a rattlecan. I decanted it into a dropperbottle so I can use it in the airbrush. It gives a very nice finish and it hasn't frosted over on me once.
I brush on varnish, mostly because I lack an airbrush, but I do like having the ability to keep the base matte, the mech (I paint mostly Battletech) satin, and the cockpit, laser jewels, etc. gloss.
Can't say I have ever sprayed varnish, but wonder if frosting due to temperature of the air and can. Spray automotive primer too cold and the gun shoots spider webs everywhere and takes a week to dry. Shoot varnish too hot and it drys before it touches the surface and looks frosty. You would use a temp appropriate reducer only you don't have that option with this hobby. Line moisture will ruin paint sprays too. $$$$ for better dryer. I have always been told by auto painters to run recommended 100ft of hose, dryer, then 25-50ft of hose to the gun, but an airbrush it will be shorter due to less volume.
Future floor polish has been my go to gloss varnish for years modelling. I use it after base coating and before any oil washes/dot filters etc, Then i may use another layer of future, carry on painting, then seal with AK Matt varnish (avoiding the metallics as it totally will kill any shine).
I ended up settling on AK interactive's acrylic varnish line. Ultra Matte, Matte, Satin. I love the ultra matte look, and paint my metalics after the varnish step, but a 2:1 combo of satin and ultra matte is a great balance of protection and matting without total overkill matte. One other tip is to mix nothing with the varnishes you use in your airbrush. No thinner, no water, nothing. Just shoot the varnish straight. You never know if those other things are going to cause that frosting effect your were seeing.
Take a look at Ak interactive ultra matte. it's the only matte varnish i use. doesnt make it appear chalky or give a grainy texture like some people are pointing out others to be. however be aware that it is extremely matte and will show your mistakes that you didnt notice before because of the paints natural reflection. so if youre blends arent creamy smooth, you will see the harsh lines in the blends. this will dull down your metallics too, its natural for any matte to do that. so i'd recommend going over key areas (metals, organs, glass, etc.) with a gloss varnish (i use brush for this sometimes) if that's the effect you desire. since i enjoy NMM quite a bit, i typically just matte the whole thing and call it done. i feel like it makes my photos look better too because you eliminate any unnecessary glare from your light sources.
Hi Jay, I never had issues with vallejo varnish but I use them differently. It's the smaller dropper and my suggestion is this: Paint everything but washes, metallics highlights and recess shades. Varnish with very thin multiple coats of glossy, small burst high pressure airbrush. Then apply the shades, varnish with 50/50 matt and satin, then highlight metallics. Metallic paints are tougher cause of flakes and if you want apply a last very thin layer of satin varnish airbrushed. I also use airbrush thinner in them but it's 3 to 4 drops of it every 10 drops of varnish. Never frosted. Also the glossy varnish is the toughest one so that's the one that will do the hard work but you're hiding it under thin coats of satin/matt mix. 👍Best of luck, congrats on the channel, I love your videos
I like satin varnish because it allows me to make something that is supposed to be matte using matte varnish with a brush. Same goes for gloss. Satin allows me to go up or down in sheen on specific areas using a brush
I don’t see it mentioned anywhere else in the comments, but VMS varnishes which are typically used by armored vehicle modelers are just amazing, I’ve yet to have any frosting issues with them and they don’t seem to really touch the colors from what I can tell.
I've always thought matte spray, and brush on thinned satin and gloss to get what finish you want on specific sections. Anything to make it simpler, outside of waiting time, would be a great boon. Can't wait to see a follow-up video when you really find what you want/need in your finish. Though a medium provides a finishing layer is it really as durable as a varnish? They are different chemicals after all. I think Goobertown Hobbies might have done a video on durability of varnishes.
I use vallejo "mecha" varnish. I picked up a bottle of gloss and one of matt. I like them both. There is a satin available but rather than buy another product a 50/50 mix of matt and gloss works great if I need a satin finish.
Jay, use vallejo ACRYLIC varnish. I use the Matte but for bright colors I sometimes use satin. On metal I always use satin as to not lose the sheen. Trust me you won’t be disappointed.
i use paint on varnish, the two ways I do it. First, I do an all over gloss varnish then matt down the parts that I dont want to be glossy. Make sure you NEVER go over metallics with matt varnish, kills the metal shine completely. Second, and what I do mostly, I just use satin varnish over the whole thing an call it a day. Either way I use a brush to make sure I never get frosting.
Ha! You discovered my secret! A generous coat of Liquitex Gloss Varnish, for protection, followed by a coat of Liquitex Ultra Matt Medium. You get the protection of varnish and the matt finish without the frostiness. I do not like running the risk of having my minis frosting over that comes with matt varnishes. Liquitex Matt Varnish is ok but leaves this slight frosting that you got with Vallejo Matt Varnish. Matt (or Ultra Matt) Liquitex medium doesn’t do that in my experience.
Liquitex Matte Varnish. You should be able to dump it through a .05 needle airbrush without any additional thinning. Used it for years. It's not super matte and doesn't seem to desaturate color too much. I still wouldn't put it over metallic I want to stay shiny and burnished, nor fluro colors, but I wouldn't put any other varnish over those sorts of specialty paints anyway.
Varnishing is great and all but can we talk about how you've based your templars?!?! Love how your minis are right in the thick of their environment - that brown dried muddy dirt looks amazing on the templars! Tutorial?!?!
Perfect example of how a company like Liquitex who caters for a wide market and have a wealth of experience because of it, has a better product than the smaller, more over-priced miniature-focused varnishes. I've always used Liquitex and it's the best value for money hands down.
If the medium gives you the finish you want, you can use it over a layer of proper varnish, so you get the longevity of the varnish and the finish of the medium.
A good informative video Jay. However, I still use the Testors Dullcote and Glosscote lacquers. They are bullet proof protection and I love the way they look. I also still paint with Humbrol in addition to my GW and Army Painter. I just bought some Vallejo paint to try out. I'm a geezer, but I like watching these types of videos. Lots of great tips, never to old to learn.
I triple-coat my varnish. First a layer of matte, then a layer of gloss, and then a final layer of matte. I find that the gloss layer in the middle helps brighten up the colors, and the matte layers on either side of it remove the glare.
I use the vallejo “mecha” line of varnish. I find the satin may be a bit glossy but I usually add in some matte if im in a rush or a coat of each ending in matte if I have time! Give them a try I really like them!
Had the same issue, more and thinner coats (with about one day drying between them) fixed it for me. I only use common spray cans since about 20 years.
I've been using liqitex varnish forever... and I brush it on unless the model is very big. I found airbrush though nice can give effects I don't like. So brush it is. Plus it let's me control hey this is metal so let's use a different varnish, without too many coats.
A gloss varnish under a matte varnish can prevent the dulling of colours and theoretically should help prevent metallics from losing their sheen, but I don't use metallic paints so I don't know. Gloss varnish (or wetting the surface) is a colour shift from the original paint colour. What you are seeing isn't what the paint used to look like unless the paints themselves where very glossy.
You might also look into giving it a satin/gloss varnish for protection and spray the matt medium over and the end to dull it down. Some extra steps, which might give you the protection you want in combination with the finish you want.
This step is unnecessary, contrary to popular belief gloss varnish isn't any more hard-wearing than matte. Goobertown Hobbies did a video comparing them, and he's a chemist.
@@brandongiles6875 I didn't say it was harder, I said it could give him the protection he wants and use the matt medium to get the finish he wants, without the frosting effect, as the gloss varnish will give some benefits when doing techniques like pinwashing with oils/enamels, etc.
Personal choice ''Micro Satin'' , but its a brush on and takes some time tho, well it says you can airbrush it on not tried that tho :) . but still my favourite!
Pledge floor gloss (cheap, easy to find, one bottle could be a lifetime supply for some) put directly in airbrush for a sealing layer. Then go back with a satin or matte.
I have been using the Vallejo Acrylic matte and satin varnishes without the frosting issue you're seeing. My first thought was that maybe you're spraying too dry, but then you sprayed on camera and it didn't seem that way. I have been using X-22 from Tamiya for a gloss coat and I love it. I haven't tried their flat coat, yet, but that might be a way to go. You could always get some Dullcote in a bottle and airbrush that. If your ventilation is set up to handle lacquers, that is.
I’m probably an iconoclast, but I personally don’t like a matte finish on my models (I use a lot of matte-finish paints, so matte varnish on top of that just makes them feel in-progress or incomplete). That coupled with the fact that I’ve had several instances where matte varnish hasn’t protected my paint has led me to rattle-can gloss varnish. I haven’t suffered any frosting after my very first model, and I’m not shooting for display painting anyway.
I'm a strong proponent of satin or semi gloss. 2 drops matte to 1 drop gloss of your varnish of choice is also a decent starting point. Krylon matte over a krylon gloss coat was the standard for years in my warmachine group. I also got a bottle of Vallejo metal varnish by mistake I've been meaning to try for some spot varnishing.
A 3:1 mix of Lucky Ultramatte & Lucky Satin varnish is my go, but you should also be thinning down your varnishes. Something like a 4:1 varnish to thinner. Nothing is “airbrush ready” out of the bottle IMO.
“Mr. Super clear matt” varnish isn’t actually matte but I’ve found it to be the perfect in between of not being to shiny but also not frosting the colors
I never apply matt finish as the initial varnish coat over my paint. It does dull colors and makes metallics look gray (for silver/steel) and brown (for gold/brass). I apply gloss first and then spritz on just enough matt to take the high shine off the gloss. Lately, I've been trying Mr. Premium Top Coat Semi-Gloss as my second step. It seems a bit more forgiving than straight up matt varnish, so if I overdo the matt coat, it won't dull the model too much.
usually i paint Metallics should be painted after The mate barnish an barnish em with gloss. If aim lazy i just use satín barnish for all the thing . You can dilude the Vallejo barnish to 70/30 or 50/50 to reduce the barnish layer thicness of it. Is a coat could reduce the saturation if it his too thic. If You dilude em Will helps a little bit. Or try the barnish of the mecha líne that works well with bright colored robots
I used the matt medium as a varnish, but it is not the same thing. Varnishes cures differently than mediums (which are mostly paints without pigments) and give much better protection. If you store your minis in foam, IMO a varnish is a much better protection than medium.
The best varnish is the one from MR HOBBY, it goes perfect through the airbrush, and it stops the paint from desaturating. You do need a different thinner, I’d recommend their self levelling thinner.
If you're trying to varnish in just 1 step then satin is the way to go imo. If you want to take more time I'd do the clearest and most matte varnish you possibly could as the base for your finish, and then add less matte varnish over it to areas that need a bit of shine. That's really the only way to get complete control over the finish on your varnished minis. Or just don't varnish you minis at all. I've been playing with mostly unvarnished minis for years now with no signs of wear.
Great video - I haven't got around to varnishing my minis yet so this was useful. Also I know these are quite simple bases but I really dig the look - would love to do something similar for my new blood angels.
2:46 - but you maybe can! I messed up a big vehicle with citadel's munitorum varnish (matte rattlecan), and I got no frosting but I had 0, and I truly mean 0, metallics left. I lightly sponged some turpentine on the metallics, and it removed the varnish to bring the metallics right back to normal. YMMV Edit: test this out on a test model first
I used to never varnish because I was basically never told by anyone that you should do it until recently. My go to has been vallejo mecha air satin varnish, I find it's the best balance as the matte version was dulling down metallics to the point they barely had any shine to them, and whilst I haven't tried the gloss version I feel like it'd be too much and I don't like a very glossy finish anyway, so the satin is a perfect middle ground.
I use Windsor and Newtown professional Matt varnish it's the best stuff I've used comes in a big rattle can, after all it's designed for applying to a canvas to protect a Stella landscape or portrait so it's the bees knees.
I need to varnish a metric butt-ton of minis I've painted since the Pandemic started...I'm looking for suggestions as well. Thanks for pointing some out, Jay.
I usually do a bit of gloss or satin varnish with a brush over my matte varnish where it needs to be (gloss for wet stuff, metals and glass, satin for stuff like leathers). And yes, matte medium is best for preserving colour saturation.
Usually I airbrush AK Interactive's Ultra Matt varnish over whole model, then apply AK interactive's Glossy varnish over metal/glossy parts (lenses, purity seals, etc.) with a paintbrush. Glossy varnish negates the ultra matt effect and makes metal look nice again. Tried different brands, but I prefer to stick with Vallejo for primer/paints and with AK Interactive for varnishes - they are top notch
I use GW Stormshield thinned with a tiny bit of Lahmian medium to help it flow off the brush and the finish is perfect for me, I've tried pretty much all the varnishes I know of and it gives me that perfect blend of a slight satin finish but not too much.
I really like Winsor and Newton Aqueous Oil Matte Varnish. I spray it on with an airbrush and since it cleans up with water I don't have to deal with crazy chemicals. I don't think the varnish is actually an oil - it dries very fast (for an oil) and is super matte.
I'm a big fan of Liquitex they have some great textures and the price is good & they also have good pigments. It's the one acrylic I think you can use for everything.
I used to have a lot of problems with varnishes (minis as well as scale models) but now I use Instar Provectus Varnish+ and I've never had a problem since. I don't really use glosses but if I do I just use a bog standard humbrol one and I've never had any frostings with that
I used to use the tremclad clear coat gloss from Walmart, now I just use the matte gloss. Oh, and they are spray cans. The price is good and they protect my models
Matt varnish seems to darken the paint 😟 so, one solution is just to paint the basic-colours, then varnish, then to paint the highlights and detailles 😎🤗 and leave them unvarnished. In this way you will not see the metal/plastic/resin of the mini, when it got scratched 🤠 if necessary you can always re-paint the detailles and highlights
I use Ammo Mig lucky varnish range (like all the variants) and they're perfectly fine... My solution is to pepper the whole miniature Satin.. Then proceed with gloss and matte via the simple brush on certain parts of the model - this combination makes for a good, kinda realistic finish
For matte, you pretty much don't get any better than AK Interactive Ultra Matte Varnish. And they MEAN it! Quite easy through an airbrush with just a few drops of thinner.
50:50 Vallejo matt and satin varnish. I thin with Vallejo airbrush thinner. Had the same issue as you and this is what I settled on for the best finish. I actually find it's the matt vanish that gives me a frosty finish, not sure what's going on there.
I usually spray satin varnish over the whole miniature, then use a brush-on matt varnish on the parts that I'd like to dull down... Army Painter's matt varnish is top for me
While it is nice that he does this stuff for painting which has helped want to get into painting, I was excited to see the control being a deathwatch model as a deathwatch player lol
![[SFM] Risky Recital](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RzNkY1_Nk3o/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey Jay, guys here
Here jay, guys hey
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If you end up having frosting problems/over-desaturation problems with your varnish, you can almost perfectly save them by applying a coat of gloss varnish over the frosted layer. For the most part it will entirely save the project and undo the frosting, from there you can apply a new coat of your preferred varnish over that to bring back the finish you want. Matte will always seemingly desaturate your colors, whereas gloss will accentuate them, due to the way they absorb and reflect light. Satin is a perfect middle ground for a uniform finish that isn't shiny and enough to be distracting, but also not matte enough to lose the true color.
The frost happened to me when I sprayed Krylon Matte Finish (which I love) But I did too much and they looked dusty. So I waste them with soap and water, dried and sprayed a Satin Varnish and they looked perfect.
The only reason for frosting i found out with my models was always about the temperature. I only use rattle cans, and what I do is I make sure the place is dry enough and my can of varnish had took a good 2-3 minutes shake after ~25-27 Celsius water bath. Never had frosting again in my life.
I got a terrible frosting from gw:s munitorum varnish rattle can. I tried the gloss varnish trick but it didn't do anything, now it just looks shiny and frosty. I've never had such problems with army painter's varnish spray.
@@t0k3p0k3 as I mentioned earlier - good shake and heat condition and you'll never have frosting again. I also use GW munitorum.
@@alexeybychenkov3659 Thanks, I might try that to get some use out of that rattle can I had given up on.
Gloss, then satin, then matt.
Think "fractally" as it were. Your matt acrylic base layers have a grainy texture. Straight matt varnish will add to that grain.
A gloss coat will seal with a smooth, hard, layer. Progressing through satin to matt will then bring down the shine without having "grains on grains" and will make your colours really pop.
I've heard this before but never seen someone demonstrate it, proving the theory. I've always thought matte spray, and brush on thinned satin and gloss to get what finish you want on specific sections. Anything to make it simpler, outside of waiting time, would be a great boon.
@@walkerawhite4698 it's a pretty simple thing to test yourself...
Definetly need to give this a try!
@@rodericklenz5030 Why do that when I can wait for someone else to do it? Like Russian and trains, heh.
I'm actually planning on trying it next time I varnish. I just don't have an airbrush so I haven't thought it a good idea to do with rattlecans or brush-on.
@@walkerawhite4698 buddy, don't be intimidated by brushing it on at all, especially on minis. I use Micro (as in Micro sol/set) clear coats and do the whole process with a brush, but any good self-leveling clear gloss will brush on easier than most colours. Just remember: brush strokes are either caused by thick sticky paint, or poor pigment dispersion through the medium. The second part isn't an issue for clear coats, and the first is basic ;).
That said, I'd break out the airbrush for anything Redemptor sized or bigger.
I actually asked Vince Venturella how to deal with varnishing metallics. And his reply was to skip varnishing for metallics - it's the only way to preserve properties of metallic paint. So my current solution for varnishing is that I use brush to apply different varnishes to different parts of the model. Here is my process:
1. Brush on gloss varnish on all the parts of the model that are not metallic. This is for protection.
2. Brush on matt varnish on most parts: armor, weapon casing etc.
3. Brush on satin varnish on things I want to be more glossy: skin, fabric etc.
4. Optional: Brush on additional coat of gloss varnish on things like gems, glass etc.
For metallics I mix in some Vallejo Metal Varnish with them when I'm painting. This solves 2 problems I had with Vallejo Metal Color paints: they were too flowy for detailed brush work and it makes them rock hard when cured - no need for additional varnish on top.
I add my metallics after the matt varnish - you can also brush different varnishes on seperate areas to get a certain finish, adding another layer of contrast (for example matt for the armour - satin for skin - and gloss for metallics)
Testor's Dullcote spray preserves 80% of the metallic sheen while being beautifully satin everywhere else. I can't tell you how they do that, it's almost like magic.
Likewise. Whenever possible, I’ll paint the true metallics on after varnishing the rest of the model.
Yep. It's the best way to do it. It's the pros way to do it, actually
I'll do the same or purposely hit them with matt, then come back after they dry with the original metallics to give different levels of shine to metal objects.
After a lot of trial and error, I always use a 50/50 mix of Vallejo Matt and Satin Varnish, diluted with water, sprayed through the airbrush at about 30 psi. No frosting, no air bubbles, lots of control and a good balance for all types of different surfaces.
hi, can you tell me what kind of varnish you used ? (ref) 😁
@Maxime Nerrière Vallejo Matt and Satin Varnish, like I wrote 👍 Or what do you mean?
@@KabinMiniatures there are different references like acrylic or mecha or simple.. so I wanted to know which ones you used 😅
@Maxime Nerrière Oh, I see! I use the "100% acrylic resin" version. Though I've heard good things about the Mecha line too. I have a whole video about varnish on my channel if you want to check it out?
@@KabinMiniatures ok thanks you so much ! I go check your Channel 😁
Litle explanation there ... what does matte varnish do to matten your model? It's a clear coat right? Well it simply creates an uneven surface, reduceing light reflection and thus creating the matte effect.
So what you call foggy is just the matte varnish doing it's job. If you want to tone it down there are several ways to do so.
A) mixing your varnish with satin or gloss varnish. Those create a smother surface, so by mixing those you will shift your result into the wanted direction.
B) varnish everything matte and brush on gloss varnish over the parts you want to keep shiny / reflective / vibrant.
C) polish. Grab a polishing cloth and polish the parts back up until you are happy with the result. With polishing you are smoothing the surface the varnish roughend and thus you reduce the mattening effect.
This explains why your rebel tank gets more vibrant again when you brush on water. The water creates a smooth surface, stops breaking the light and the paint can be seen unhindered. It's not as if the frosty varnish has pigments or anything in it ... it's clear and the only difference is the surface texture. By editing the surface texture you can edit the result.
Great comment
A little thought. If most of the model needs to be - for example - matt, you could airbrush the whole thing so it's matt, and then come back and hand brush gloss or satin over bits that could dowith being shinier?
A few recipes I've seen at game stores.
Vallejo satin varnish coat then a coat of Windsor and Newton Matt varnish spray.
Liquitex Matt varnish with a small amount of satin
Liquitex Matt varnish with a small amount of Vallejo Matt.
Liquitex Matt varnish with a small amount of gloss, this was applied with a brush to metallic areas.
Personally Vallejo airbrush thinner helps me get a smooth coat with a brush.
I have never been a fan of Army painter paints but I love their anti-shine varnish. I use it on everything.
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I am going to try and cram as much info in as few words as possible, but this could easily be a whole video.
1. Your mini should rarely have the same finish across the entire surface. If you look at a reference pic, you will notice different textures have different finishes. You can add extra contrast and realism by being tactical with your varnish. Start with an all over satin varnish, then pick out areas to be matte/gloss with a brush.
2. (Satin) Varnish before applying weathering powder and then fix the powder with a fixer (never seal powder with varnish). The fixer is enough to keep the pigment in place and doesnt alter the finish like a varnish. Common pigment fixer is just mineral spirits. The matte pigment will have major contrast with the satin underneath it.
3. If you use oil/enamels for weathering, varnish before you apply them, but not after. They are tough products when fully cured and you dont want to alter the finish.
4. Liquitex mediums are my personal recommendation for varnishes in my own videos. I have used it for years, it's cheap, and has never failed me. Make sure to thin it per the bottle's recommendation. Off the top of my head, matte and gloss need thinning, but satin does not.
I use the following:
Citadel Lahmian Medium is the best but that's gonna get expensive. Use the Air Cast thinner for airbrush.
Liquitex varnish can work too. Use Liquitex Airbrush Thinner, not water or at least a flow improver.
Citadel Munitorum Varnish is surprisingly very good. Go in shallow passes and let layers thoroughly dry in between to avoid build up and hazing.
Hope this helps.
Lahmiam Medium is just a more expensive Liquitex Matte Medium.
This is why I use satin varnish. The colors I see after varnishing are much truer to the colors I put on the model to begin with.
I've been using Liquitex matte varnish from a rattlecan. I decanted it into a dropperbottle so I can use it in the airbrush. It gives a very nice finish and it hasn't frosted over on me once.
I brush on varnish, mostly because I lack an airbrush, but I do like having the ability to keep the base matte, the mech (I paint mostly Battletech) satin, and the cockpit, laser jewels, etc. gloss.
Can't say I have ever sprayed varnish, but wonder if frosting due to temperature of the air and can. Spray automotive primer too cold and the gun shoots spider webs everywhere and takes a week to dry. Shoot varnish too hot and it drys before it touches the surface and looks frosty. You would use a temp appropriate reducer only you don't have that option with this hobby. Line moisture will ruin paint sprays too. $$$$ for better dryer. I have always been told by auto painters to run recommended 100ft of hose, dryer, then 25-50ft of hose to the gun, but an airbrush it will be shorter due to less volume.
Future floor polish has been my go to gloss varnish for years modelling. I use it after base coating and before any oil washes/dot filters etc, Then i may use another layer of future, carry on painting, then seal with AK Matt varnish (avoiding the metallics as it totally will kill any shine).
I ended up settling on AK interactive's acrylic varnish line. Ultra Matte, Matte, Satin. I love the ultra matte look, and paint my metalics after the varnish step, but a 2:1 combo of satin and ultra matte is a great balance of protection and matting without total overkill matte. One other tip is to mix nothing with the varnishes you use in your airbrush. No thinner, no water, nothing. Just shoot the varnish straight. You never know if those other things are going to cause that frosting effect your were seeing.
Take a look at Ak interactive ultra matte. it's the only matte varnish i use. doesnt make it appear chalky or give a grainy texture like some people are pointing out others to be. however be aware that it is extremely matte and will show your mistakes that you didnt notice before because of the paints natural reflection. so if youre blends arent creamy smooth, you will see the harsh lines in the blends. this will dull down your metallics too, its natural for any matte to do that. so i'd recommend going over key areas (metals, organs, glass, etc.) with a gloss varnish (i use brush for this sometimes) if that's the effect you desire. since i enjoy NMM quite a bit, i typically just matte the whole thing and call it done. i feel like it makes my photos look better too because you eliminate any unnecessary glare from your light sources.
Hi Jay, I never had issues with vallejo varnish but I use them differently. It's the smaller dropper and my suggestion is this:
Paint everything but washes, metallics highlights and recess shades. Varnish with very thin multiple coats of glossy, small burst high pressure airbrush. Then apply the shades, varnish with 50/50 matt and satin, then highlight metallics. Metallic paints are tougher cause of flakes and if you want apply a last very thin layer of satin varnish airbrushed. I also use airbrush thinner in them but it's 3 to 4 drops of it every 10 drops of varnish. Never frosted. Also the glossy varnish is the toughest one so that's the one that will do the hard work but you're hiding it under thin coats of satin/matt mix. 👍Best of luck, congrats on the channel, I love your videos
I like satin varnish because it allows me to make something that is supposed to be matte using matte varnish with a brush. Same goes for gloss. Satin allows me to go up or down in sheen on specific areas using a brush
I don’t see it mentioned anywhere else in the comments, but VMS varnishes which are typically used by armored vehicle modelers are just amazing, I’ve yet to have any frosting issues with them and they don’t seem to really touch the colors from what I can tell.
I've always thought matte spray, and brush on thinned satin and gloss to get what finish you want on specific sections. Anything to make it simpler, outside of waiting time, would be a great boon. Can't wait to see a follow-up video when you really find what you want/need in your finish. Though a medium provides a finishing layer is it really as durable as a varnish? They are different chemicals after all. I think Goobertown Hobbies might have done a video on durability of varnishes.
I use vallejo "mecha" varnish. I picked up a bottle of gloss and one of matt. I like them both. There is a satin available but rather than buy another product a 50/50 mix of matt and gloss works great if I need a satin finish.
I know this isn't the focus of the video, but damn those are some great templars.
that last one was the best because it makes the black armor look like black metal instead of plastic
Jay, use vallejo ACRYLIC varnish. I use the Matte but for bright colors I sometimes use satin. On metal I always use satin as to not lose the sheen. Trust me you won’t be disappointed.
i use paint on varnish, the two ways I do it. First, I do an all over gloss varnish then matt down the parts that I dont want to be glossy. Make sure you NEVER go over metallics with matt varnish, kills the metal shine completely. Second, and what I do mostly, I just use satin varnish over the whole thing an call it a day. Either way I use a brush to make sure I never get frosting.
Ha! You discovered my secret! A generous coat of Liquitex Gloss Varnish, for protection, followed by a coat of Liquitex Ultra Matt Medium. You get the protection of varnish and the matt finish without the frostiness. I do not like running the risk of having my minis frosting over that comes with matt varnishes. Liquitex Matt Varnish is ok but leaves this slight frosting that you got with Vallejo Matt Varnish. Matt (or Ultra Matt) Liquitex medium doesn’t do that in my experience.
Liquitex Matte Varnish. You should be able to dump it through a .05 needle airbrush without any additional thinning.
Used it for years. It's not super matte and doesn't seem to desaturate color too much. I still wouldn't put it over metallic I want to stay shiny and burnished, nor fluro colors, but I wouldn't put any other varnish over those sorts of specialty paints anyway.
Liquitex makes a Matte Varnish if you want something with UV protection
Varnishing is great and all but can we talk about how you've based your templars?!?! Love how your minis are right in the thick of their environment - that brown dried muddy dirt looks amazing on the templars! Tutorial?!?!
Migs lucky varnish or Montana gold rattle can varnish. Love both of em equally for different purposes
Perfect example of how a company like Liquitex who caters for a wide market and have a wealth of experience because of it, has a better product than the smaller, more over-priced miniature-focused varnishes. I've always used Liquitex and it's the best value for money hands down.
If the medium gives you the finish you want, you can use it over a layer of proper varnish, so you get the longevity of the varnish and the finish of the medium.
A good informative video Jay. However, I still use the Testors Dullcote and Glosscote lacquers. They are bullet proof protection and I love the way they look. I also still paint with Humbrol in addition to my GW and Army Painter. I just bought some Vallejo paint to try out. I'm a geezer, but I like watching these types of videos. Lots of great tips, never to old to learn.
The Vallejo matt varnish would be great for snow/ice based minis with that thin white frosty effect.
I triple-coat my varnish. First a layer of matte, then a layer of gloss, and then a final layer of matte. I find that the gloss layer in the middle helps brighten up the colors, and the matte layers on either side of it remove the glare.
I use the vallejo “mecha” line of varnish. I find the satin may be a bit glossy but I usually add in some matte if im in a rush or a coat of each ending in matte if I have time! Give them a try I really like them!
I too use the Mecha line, have all three. They're fantastic varnishes
Used them a lot and really hate them they frost alot
I use semi gloss. One HEAVY coat! Lol my toys look like candy! Granted, my paint jobs aren't as good as yours, but, it really makes the colors pop!
Had the same issue, more and thinner coats (with about one day drying between them) fixed it for me. I only use common spray cans since about 20 years.
I've been using liqitex varnish forever... and I brush it on unless the model is very big. I found airbrush though nice can give effects I don't like. So brush it is. Plus it let's me control hey this is metal so let's use a different varnish, without too many coats.
AK ultra matte is my go to airbrush Matte varnish
Krylon rattlecan SemiGloss clear coat is my poison of choise. I like how it really helps the colors POP on the table.
A gloss varnish under a matte varnish can prevent the dulling of colours and theoretically should help prevent metallics from losing their sheen, but I don't use metallic paints so I don't know. Gloss varnish (or wetting the surface) is a colour shift from the original paint colour. What you are seeing isn't what the paint used to look like unless the paints themselves where very glossy.
stormshield, diluted about 50% through my airbrush is my go to.
You might also look into giving it a satin/gloss varnish for protection and spray the matt medium over and the end to dull it down. Some extra steps, which might give you the protection you want in combination with the finish you want.
This step is unnecessary, contrary to popular belief gloss varnish isn't any more hard-wearing than matte. Goobertown Hobbies did a video comparing them, and he's a chemist.
@@brandongiles6875 I didn't say it was harder, I said it could give him the protection he wants and use the matt medium to get the finish he wants, without the frosting effect, as the gloss varnish will give some benefits when doing techniques like pinwashing with oils/enamels, etc.
I pretty much use the Vallejo Satin varnish on everything. But I keep a matte and gloss on hand they do see use on occasion.
Personal choice ''Micro Satin'' , but its a brush on and takes some time tho, well it says you can airbrush it on not tried that tho :) . but still my favourite!
Personally I'm looking at that massive spot of yellow on that one marine...More than anything else.
Pledge floor gloss (cheap, easy to find, one bottle could be a lifetime supply for some) put directly in airbrush for a sealing layer. Then go back with a satin or matte.
I have been using the Vallejo Acrylic matte and satin varnishes without the frosting issue you're seeing. My first thought was that maybe you're spraying too dry, but then you sprayed on camera and it didn't seem that way.
I have been using X-22 from Tamiya for a gloss coat and I love it. I haven't tried their flat coat, yet, but that might be a way to go.
You could always get some Dullcote in a bottle and airbrush that. If your ventilation is set up to handle lacquers, that is.
Rustoleum mat. All day every day
I’m probably an iconoclast, but I personally don’t like a matte finish on my models (I use a lot of matte-finish paints, so matte varnish on top of that just makes them feel in-progress or incomplete). That coupled with the fact that I’ve had several instances where matte varnish hasn’t protected my paint has led me to rattle-can gloss varnish. I haven’t suffered any frosting after my very first model, and I’m not shooting for display painting anyway.
I like my models looking glossy, so I use Satin or Gloss.
I have always used Testors Matt Spray since my old military model building days and I still love and use the product.
I'm a strong proponent of satin or semi gloss. 2 drops matte to 1 drop gloss of your varnish of choice is also a decent starting point. Krylon matte over a krylon gloss coat was the standard for years in my warmachine group. I also got a bottle of Vallejo metal varnish by mistake I've been meaning to try for some spot varnishing.
A 3:1 mix of Lucky Ultramatte & Lucky Satin varnish is my go, but you should also be thinning down your varnishes. Something like a 4:1 varnish to thinner. Nothing is “airbrush ready” out of the bottle IMO.
Can we just acknowledge the thumbnail
“Mr. Super clear matt” varnish isn’t actually matte but I’ve found it to be the perfect in between of not being to shiny but also not frosting the colors
'We will not go quietly into the night! We will not VARNISH without a fight! We're going to live on!"
I realy like the Vallejo Mecha line for my varnishing needs. Airbrush ready and they do a really good job
I never apply matt finish as the initial varnish coat over my paint. It does dull colors and makes metallics look gray (for silver/steel) and brown (for gold/brass). I apply gloss first and then spritz on just enough matt to take the high shine off the gloss. Lately, I've been trying Mr. Premium Top Coat Semi-Gloss as my second step. It seems a bit more forgiving than straight up matt varnish, so if I overdo the matt coat, it won't dull the model too much.
I use ak ultra matt, and Vallejo mecha matt. but i like the very matt finish.
usually i paint Metallics should be painted after The mate barnish an barnish em with gloss. If aim lazy i just use satín barnish for all the thing . You can dilude the Vallejo barnish to 70/30 or 50/50 to reduce the barnish layer thicness of it. Is a coat could reduce the saturation if it his too thic. If You dilude em Will helps a little bit. Or try the barnish of the mecha líne that works well with bright colored robots
I used the matt medium as a varnish, but it is not the same thing. Varnishes cures differently than mediums (which are mostly paints without pigments) and give much better protection. If you store your minis in foam, IMO a varnish is a much better protection than medium.
The best varnish is the one from MR HOBBY, it goes perfect through the airbrush, and it stops the paint from desaturating. You do need a different thinner, I’d recommend their self levelling thinner.
If you're trying to varnish in just 1 step then satin is the way to go imo. If you want to take more time I'd do the clearest and most matte varnish you possibly could as the base for your finish, and then add less matte varnish over it to areas that need a bit of shine. That's really the only way to get complete control over the finish on your varnished minis.
Or just don't varnish you minis at all. I've been playing with mostly unvarnished minis for years now with no signs of wear.
My own experience (and Goobertown's tests) definitely suggests this is fine on plastic, and not so great on metal.
Ok for plastic but some resin and metal really need it.
I just use stormshield + brush... never had anything wrong with it.
Great video - I haven't got around to varnishing my minis yet so this was useful.
Also I know these are quite simple bases but I really dig the look - would love to do something similar for my new blood angels.
I usually use a gloss varnish, then a satin or matt over it.
2:46 - but you maybe can! I messed up a big vehicle with citadel's munitorum varnish (matte rattlecan), and I got no frosting but I had 0, and I truly mean 0, metallics left. I lightly sponged some turpentine on the metallics, and it removed the varnish to bring the metallics right back to normal. YMMV
Edit: test this out on a test model first
This might be heresy, but I use clear nail polish (matt and or glossy) it preserves color nicely, but it's kinda rough on meralics
I used to never varnish because I was basically never told by anyone that you should do it until recently. My go to has been vallejo mecha air satin varnish, I find it's the best balance as the matte version was dulling down metallics to the point they barely had any shine to them, and whilst I haven't tried the gloss version I feel like it'd be too much and I don't like a very glossy finish anyway, so the satin is a perfect middle ground.
I use pure satin varnish from Vallejo and I think this is the best 👍
Testors Dullcote also comes in a bottle, but needs to be thinned with lacquer thinner.
I love Liquitex. I use both their matte varnish and satin varnish.
I use Windsor and Newtown professional Matt varnish it's the best stuff I've used comes in a big rattle can, after all it's designed for applying to a canvas to protect a Stella landscape or portrait so it's the bees knees.
I second this - equally as good as testors dullcote, big 400ml can and a lot more available here in the UK
Props on the Sam’s Club shirt. Great minds… and all that.
I need to varnish a metric butt-ton of minis I've painted since the Pandemic started...I'm looking for suggestions as well. Thanks for pointing some out, Jay.
Tamiya Matte topcoat or Mr. Super Clear give good results.
I usually do a bit of gloss or satin varnish with a brush over my matte varnish where it needs to be (gloss for wet stuff, metals and glass, satin for stuff like leathers). And yes, matte medium is best for preserving colour saturation.
Use Vallejo Satin Varnish. Problems solved. However, it leaves a little of a glossy finish. Very similar to the Liquitex one.
Usually I airbrush AK Interactive's Ultra Matt varnish over whole model, then apply AK interactive's Glossy varnish over metal/glossy parts (lenses, purity seals, etc.) with a paintbrush. Glossy varnish negates the ultra matt effect and makes metal look nice again. Tried different brands, but I prefer to stick with Vallejo for primer/paints and with AK Interactive for varnishes - they are top notch
I use GW Stormshield thinned with a tiny bit of Lahmian medium to help it flow off the brush and the finish is perfect for me, I've tried pretty much all the varnishes I know of and it gives me that perfect blend of a slight satin finish but not too much.
Vallejo Mecha Matt Varnish + Flow Improver
I really like Winsor and Newton Aqueous Oil Matte Varnish. I spray it on with an airbrush and since it cleans up with water I don't have to deal with crazy chemicals. I don't think the varnish is actually an oil - it dries very fast (for an oil) and is super matte.
I'm a big fan of Liquitex they have some great textures and the price is good & they also have good pigments. It's the one acrylic I think you can use for everything.
I used to have a lot of problems with varnishes (minis as well as scale models) but now I use Instar Provectus Varnish+ and I've never had a problem since. I don't really use glosses but if I do I just use a bog standard humbrol one and I've never had any frostings with that
I use the GW Varnish and for the metallics I use the Vallejo Metal Varnish 1:1 with water afterwards.
I used to use the tremclad clear coat gloss from Walmart, now I just use the matte gloss. Oh, and they are spray cans. The price is good and they protect my models
Matt varnish seems to darken the paint 😟 so, one solution is just to paint the basic-colours, then varnish, then to paint the highlights and detailles 😎🤗 and leave them unvarnished.
In this way you will not see the metal/plastic/resin of the mini, when it got scratched 🤠 if necessary you can always re-paint the detailles and highlights
I rarely varnish, mostly in the hobby for painting andblike the different textures. But when i do a 50:50 mix of matte and satian is ideal
I use Ammo Mig lucky varnish range (like all the variants) and they're perfectly fine... My solution is to pepper the whole miniature Satin.. Then proceed with gloss and matte via the simple brush on certain parts of the model - this combination makes for a good, kinda realistic finish
For matte, you pretty much don't get any better than AK Interactive Ultra Matte Varnish. And they MEAN it! Quite easy through an airbrush with just a few drops of thinner.
50:50 Vallejo matt and satin varnish. I thin with Vallejo airbrush thinner. Had the same issue as you and this is what I settled on for the best finish. I actually find it's the matt vanish that gives me a frosty finish, not sure what's going on there.
How much do you thin that mix?
@@SobotRex 60:40 varnish to thinner usually. I like to do a couple of coats.
I usually spray satin varnish over the whole miniature, then use a brush-on matt varnish on the parts that I'd like to dull down... Army Painter's matt varnish is top for me
Maxx Matt is the one for me don't like shine on my minis, it's the reason i also only paint with Scale 75 and pro acryl.
What I have learned is applying a GLOSS VARNISH first and then a MATTE VARNISH. It solves it for me.
While it is nice that he does this stuff for painting which has helped want to get into painting, I was excited to see the control being a deathwatch model as a deathwatch player lol
ex-deathwatch. It's a black templar that had served in the long vigil.
Personally I gloss metallics as a finish anyway since I always do power swords and it really helps even without the shine to create te desired effect.