HWL 300 LED TV Backlight Tester Unboxing and Testing
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- Опубликовано: 11 дек 2024
- LED Light and TV Backlight Tester, 85‑265V Circuit Board Trace Repair Super LED Tester LED Lights Repair Tester for TV Manufacturing Repair
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/ philipbryden
Unboxing and first test of this £20 LED tester.
Amazon link
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Tools:
Multimeter: AstroAI Digital Multimeter, TRMS 6000
Soldering Iron: KSGER T12 Soldering Station
Hot air station: Quick 857DW+
Bench PSU: Tenma 72-2540 30V 5A
Digital Oscilloscope: Rigol DS1054Z
Desolder pump: Duratool
Miscroscope: • Micro soldering set up...
Disclaimer:
The information provide in this video is for entertainment use only.
I am not a professional and any methods I use might not be the correct ones.
I will not accept any responsibility for loss, damage or injury as a result of the information provided in this video.
20:39
You could get those $5 Ammeter Panel and plug it in after the leads. Or even better if you have a multimeter lying around.
As you see its 16V, but can't see the current, kinda difficult to find a proper resistor/replacement.
I just hooked up my multimeter. A single LED is 20mA. Oh and they are 3.3mm * 2.7mm
Well done Philip you may be getting spurious readings going through your series lamp, when you were probing the mosfets it looked like those few you said didn’t light worked, and oh I forgot to say you can get a kick from the leads, also if you’re doing LEDs that are connected to a power supply disconnect them from the power supply saves charging the caps up and getting a bolt up your arm 😊
I'm really annoyed because there were half a dozen of these faulty but I only picked one up. If I had another, I would have the LEDs needed to swap the faulty ones over. It looks like this one will have to go on the back burner for now until I come across some replacements. I could get the probe out and check for a signal from the driver IC but I'm already getting 5V on the mosfet gates, so I'm assuming it's ok.
If you're wondering about little gadgets that are good to have around, here's one of my favorites.
You take the same concept as your normal everyday 120v or 240 AC load lamp.... and apply it to a 12 volt car tail light bulb. In the FPV drone community, we call them Smoke Stoppers. The idea is to prevent your power supply (presumably a battery pack) from providing too much current to your DC load, and causing the smoke to come out. If the bulb lights up, then there's a short. I used an 1156 bulb for this.
You can make a 6 volt version too, by using a 6v tail light bulb for an old VW or somesuch. I used a 1651 bulb for this.
In the FPV community, we use XT60 connectors (because that's what's on our batteries), but you can use any connector you want for an electronics bench. Perhaps alligator clips?
That's interesting. I normally use my bench power supply, which will cut out if it detects a short. There is a lot of different voltages and power jack sizes to consider. I'll have a look into it, thanks for the info.
@@PhilipBryden Sure no problem. The bulbs will work for a range of voltages. Most of the time I use that 12 volt bulb for a 4S lipo pack, which is 16.8 volts fully charged. They also work for lower voltages too. I've seen guys use them for 5s packs and 6s packs (for short bursts).
The 6v bulb is great for your low voltage applications (1.5v to 9v). Guys used them for 1s and 2s quads.
Interesting Phil 👍
I'm confused that mutiple LEDs are connected to multiple mosfets. A few more seem to have gone off too, so I think I'm fighting a losing battle with this thing.
I must say that thing would drive anyone me nuts lol
There are 9 leds out. I would like to pick up small preheater and a bunch of replacement LEDs, even just to use this as a practice piece.
Big Clive has just done a tear down and reverse engineering of this device, very complex and very interesting, but he also shows how to access the voltage limiting mode...
I'll take a look thank you.
I made a high voltage "zener diode tester" (but really it'll test anything with a voltage drop, including LEDs) which does pretty much what this does but only up to 210v. It limits the output current to 4.5mA though, so no zapping from mine but I'm not sure how it would work with a bunch of parallel LEDs. 4.5mA isn't a lot to share around. I guess yours pumps out a fair bit more current, hence getting zapped. I made two versions, one runs off an 18650 and the other from a 9-12v supply - so no risk of a failure or internal short connecting me to the mains voltage.
I just noticed another comment says that it puts out 20mA. I could do that with mine also with a simple resistor change - though that'll allow finger tingle, as yours does when touching the leads ⚡⚡. I'll keep it in mind if I ever need to test a floodlight, TV or whatever. In fact, maybe I'll build another with a current selector switch to choose either 4mA, 10mA or 20mA. Thanks for the improvement idea 👍
You built your own, well done. You're far more clever than I am. I can't even use this one without electrocuting myself lol. Thanks for popping onto my channel, watching the video and leaving a nice comment.
It seems a current source of 20mA. The 12V led is probably designed for a lower current, so you will see a higher voltage with the HWL300. Testing a led with a power supply without any current limiter is not recommended, its easy to destroy the led in that way.
You are spot on. I ran the LED tester through the multimeter just no and the 12V LED took 20mA. I'll use this tester rather than the PSU in future. Thank you for your help. I wonder if a separate little amp meter might be a useful addition to my desk.
I bought the same one. recently I noticed that something is beeping inside and seems to be ticking. Is this how it should be?
If you short probs for few second you will be in 19v mod not 300v
That sounds like a safer mode to be in, especially when I pick the probes up at the pointy ends lol. Thank you.