Does the position of the head unit relative to the outdoor unit affect the need for a pump? My understanding is that a head unit creates the condensate. We're getting varying quotes for a ductless mini split for a garden level basement. The head unit is on an exterior wall, about two feet above ground. So i assume gravity will take care of it. The line set coming out of the head unit, through the exterior wall, can be sloped. However, maybe the head unit being lower than the top of the outdoor unit somehow compromises that? I can't figure out why they are quoting for a pump. It's a well known, locally owned company. They just keep saying "you need it in a basement install"even after the site visit.
As long as the wall mounted unit is above ground level and is mounted on an exterior wall there should be no reason for a condensate pump. It does not matter if the indoor unit is below the outdoor unit as the condensate comes from the indoor unit and is not related to the outdoor unit. There might be another factor at play that you can ask about?
@@gotductlessusa the other two companies did not feel we needed it. We are also in an extremely dry climate (front range of Colorado) so I can't believe there will be much condensate anyway. We have a Mitsubishi hyperheat unit heating and cooling a finished garage: the condensate coming off that is barely detectable. I just wanted an outside opinion that wasn't affected by price. Thanks so much
I'd be interested in your thoughts about running condensate lines in climates where freezing occurs. For example, running a 1 inch pvc drain line through an attic to an exterior wall - could it freeze? I've also heard of lines running not vertically on an exterior wall freezing.
The units only condensate when in air conditioning mode. If you are using air conditioning in the freezing winter time then this can be an issue. Then it is best to insulate the drain line to prevent freezing. If you plan on only heating during the winter months, this condition shouldn't worry you.
This video describes a lot of plumbing/tubing setups that would be much easier to visualize with some video of actual condensate drain configurations. Instead, we see a guy talking to a camera, verbally describing these setups. We want to see: - how does the drain tube attach to the unit? What fittings are used? - how do typical drain tubes exit the exterior wall? - what if I need to exit from a soffit - what does the drain tube look like? - how do you terminate a vinyl condensate tube from a pump outside?
As far as we know, it can't be done because of the limited space behind the unit, not including the future acessability of the pump for maintenance. Keep in mind, that pump will probably have to be replaced every 3-5 years so accessibility is important.
The copper lines on mine are sweating so much in the walls. They have insulation on them but it still sweats. I can’t find anyone having similar concerns…
Is every inch of the copper insulated? If it is 1/2" insulation, and its thoroughly covered, you shouldn't be seeing pipe sweat. Make sure there are no gaps in insulation as well.
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Does the position of the head unit relative to the outdoor unit affect the need for a pump? My understanding is that a head unit creates the condensate. We're getting varying quotes for a ductless mini split for a garden level basement. The head unit is on an exterior wall, about two feet above ground. So i assume gravity will take care of it. The line set coming out of the head unit, through the exterior wall, can be sloped. However, maybe the head unit being lower than the top of the outdoor unit somehow compromises that? I can't figure out why they are quoting for a pump. It's a well known, locally owned company. They just keep saying "you need it in a basement install"even after the site visit.
As long as the wall mounted unit is above ground level and is mounted on an exterior wall there should be no reason for a condensate pump. It does not matter if the indoor unit is below the outdoor unit as the condensate comes from the indoor unit and is not related to the outdoor unit. There might be another factor at play that you can ask about?
@@gotductlessusa the other two companies did not feel we needed it. We are also in an extremely dry climate (front range of Colorado) so I can't believe there will be much condensate anyway. We have a Mitsubishi hyperheat unit heating and cooling a finished garage: the condensate coming off that is barely detectable. I just wanted an outside opinion that wasn't affected by price. Thanks so much
I'd be interested in your thoughts about running condensate lines in climates where freezing occurs. For example, running a 1 inch pvc drain line through an attic to an exterior wall - could it freeze? I've also heard of lines running not vertically on an exterior wall freezing.
The units only condensate when in air conditioning mode. If you are using air conditioning in the freezing winter time then this can be an issue. Then it is best to insulate the drain line to prevent freezing. If you plan on only heating during the winter months, this condition shouldn't worry you.
This video describes a lot of plumbing/tubing setups that would be much easier to visualize with some video of actual condensate drain configurations. Instead, we see a guy talking to a camera, verbally describing these setups.
We want to see:
- how does the drain tube attach to the unit? What fittings are used?
- how do typical drain tubes exit the exterior wall?
- what if I need to exit from a soffit - what does the drain tube look like?
- how do you terminate a vinyl condensate tube from a pump outside?
Good feedback! Maybe you'll see this in a future video :)
Hi can you fit a condensate pump inside the LG art cool gallery ?
As far as we know, it can't be done because of the limited space behind the unit, not including the future acessability of the pump for maintenance. Keep in mind, that pump will probably have to be replaced every 3-5 years so accessibility is important.
The copper lines on mine are sweating so much in the walls. They have insulation on them but it still sweats. I can’t find anyone having similar concerns…
Is every inch of the copper insulated? If it is 1/2" insulation, and its thoroughly covered, you shouldn't be seeing pipe sweat. Make sure there are no gaps in insulation as well.
Best brand for the northeast for heat
Mitsubishi Hyper Heat we think is the best brand for heat. Most reliable for sure.