I’m late to this party but we’ve owned an SS5500 for almost five years and it has been totally faultless except for the solenoid I replaced yesterday. We regularly cut 2 1/2 acres with it. Runs great.
FYI - I had this same problem. I disconnected the linkage to the breaks so I could move the machine. I then stopped at a dealership and picked up a new BCM. Only took 10 minutes to install. I thought I was home free. Not so much. With the new BCM installed and connected, I still had problems. The brake actuator would partially move. Ther mower would start and charge, but engaging the blade killed it after 10 seconds. I thought I had installed a faulty module but when I went back to the dealership, the tech asked me if it was possible there was corrosion on the pins of the connector. I went home and spent 10 minutes disconnecting the harness to the module, inspected it and found corrosion on 2 of the pins. After a thorough cleaning, I reconnected the module and bang, everything now works fine. In my view, the problem is not a faulty module, but the connection between the harness and the module. Dirt and moisture can get in even though there is a cover over the assembly. I removed the new assembly and put in the old assembly and it worked fine. Perhaps there are cases where the poor connection can cause the module to fail? I don't think there is a problem with the assembly, there is a problem with the connector and corrosion. I have now completely wrapped the harness and connector to the new assembly with electrical tape to keep it weather and dust proof. Try this before replacing your BCM. It only takes 10 minutes.
Sure wish I read this comment before replacing my brake controller and battery. Now I'm gonna clean the leads and see if that works. Looks like there was some kind of white paste in there already when I was replacing the controller. I figured it was put there from the factory to help prevent grime from getting in.
I just spent time and money chasing this problem myself, because getting it to a shop would have been difficult, and because I like to fix stuff. I did start from the power end, first replacing the battery (just because it was several years old). I wasn't hearing any sounds that suggested a solenoid issue. Then after watching a bunch of RUclips videos, I became convinced that the park brake module was bad. Those aren't cheap and they aren't easy to replace. (Perhaps no surprise that several of the videos in fact had to do with jumping or shorting the module switches, to disable the brake. I wasn't keen on doing that. I wanted a fix.) Could hear the PTO clutch "click" when that button was pulled, so figured that was probably okay. Mystery was that the park brake disengaged when I turned the key to "On," even with the control levers in the extended "Park" position. After turning the key off, the module would again actuate -- but only after 5-7 seconds -- and re-set the brake. So, okay, the new module DOES work (and the old one probably did, too -- glad I kept it), but it's getting bad instructions. I went in to test the switches, starting on the left. I discovered that the wire connector to the switch was loose. I cleaned it up (grass out, dielectric spray on) and reattached it. Mower started right up and runs fine, now that the park brake actuator isn't getting mixed signals. Long, circuitous route to a simple fix, but I got some new parts on the machine and learned a lot, so at least there's that. I'm going to re-post this as a comment to some of the other videos I watched, in case it might be useful to others with the no-start problem.
@@knock3x Nope. Everything worked on time, as intended. I believe the delayed activation had to do with the module getting conflicting signals from the two control bar switches. The module is just a servo (small electric motor driving some gears, which in turn release or engage the park brake cogs). One of my first guesses was that one of the plastic gears inside the module had broken or become stripped. That wasn't the case. I'm inclined now to think that most replacements of these park brake modules are not solving the problem, which lies somewhere else. There are plenty of RUclips videos on how to short the wiring to the control bar switches and see if the module/actuator itself in fact works okay.
@@jayrose9463 No reason to think so. When you push the control bars to the side, thereby depressing the park brake switches, you should be able to confidently assume that the brake is on -- even if the mower is still running (with or without the PTO engaged -- of course, if engaged, you can't leave the seat without killing the engine.) With a delay, the utility and safety factors in a parking brake would be compromised, at least during the delay.
@@riceski I feel your pain. Mine eats blade belts at the rate of 2 a year. I always have 2 spare blade and drive belts in the shed. Don't get me started on drive spindles and bearings. I'll never buy another Toro. Next one will be a Ferris.
Very helpful demonstration of how to manually disengage the parking brake at 05:35 - couldn't figure it out from the diagram alone, this was a big help!
You saved me. I was looking for a vid on how to manually disengage the brake and was giving up on the video when it got into the wiring explanation but then saw your comment. Thank you very much.
Reliability? The last one I replaced didn't last a full year. Thinking of selling my ss5000 because of this issue considering the part is between $100-$125 and has to be replaced every year. I've bypassed the POS and will never buy another Toro mower.
If you look at this diagram, you see there is a wire leaving the module going to ground(an upside down Christmas tree) If this is an actual wire, this is the wire to put a switch in series with. If this is a ground that goes through the body of the module, then your going to have to isolate that module from ground and use the switch you have to buy to get a ground too the module. Everything would be a lot simpler if Toro and it’s “ENGINEERS” would figure out away to make this lawn mower more dependable. I don’t need a company rep telling me about the problem, I need a company rep to tell it fixed. I guess I’ll be buying a John Deere, alittle more price wise. But I won’t be spend $100.00 every time I want to use it.
Toro MX505: Turns ON - Full idle power is OK - Cutting Deck is OK to turn ON - BUT if you put it in drive to back up or drive it cuts power and stalls out every time. It turned out it was NOT the seat (sitting) sensor, or a fuse, or a transmission issue. It was a stick wedged under the back part of the mower on the bottom that must have been interfering. I wanted to mention that in case it could help anyone. Make sure the belts for both the Deck area in front and under the motor area in back are free of debris.
These modules are an absolute nightmare. Thankfully mine has lasted about 3 years. Neighbor had to replace his after only 40 hours. Worst piece of electronic engineering ever made. Totally stopped the mower dead in it's tracks. I couldn't move the brake levers on the module. They were locked solid. I had to by pass the module and secure the brake rods and away it went. The replacement was a whisker of $420.00. Yes, you read that right.
Yep, like everyone else has said. Toro TimeCutter is Garbage. Used mine maybe five times, and brake control module already went out. Luckily, this video does show how to manually disengage the brake, which allowed me to continue to use the mower.
TimeCutter ss4225. I haven't even owned this mower for a full two months yet in the module just went out on me. Yeah it's under warranty but it's still a hassle and how many times am I going to have to mess with this from what I'm reading here? What happens when the warranty is gone? Buy one or two of these a year??? I dont think so....Gunna try to get my money back. I suggest you look around before you settle for this one
Thankyou for a very good video. I have installed a new ignition switch (genuine) to replace a dodgy car type switch installed by a previous owner. When the engine is running and I engage the PTO switch the starter motor operates. Can you help with some advice please? Rick from Aus
I bought one of these mowers today from Home Depot. When they went to load it on my truck they couldn't get it to roll. Someone there knew to tap on the brake actuator to get it to roll. That should have told me then and there not to take the mower. I took it home anyway. I put gas in it and started it. It wouldn't move. I couldn't get it off the truck. I took it back to the store and they cancelled the sale for me. Super disappointed. When I got back to the store, there was another customer there returning the exact same mower for the exact same reason. Obviously these actuators have a problem.
Run don't walk away from this piece of garbage. Run like you're on fire. I have an MX5060 that has spent more time at the shop than at my home in the two years since I bought it. Apparently I just ran over a stick or a really tough patch of grass and the brake system locked up. Something is always going wrong with it. Had the brain box replaced once. 42 different "safety" features designed to lock this thing up and ruin the next 4 to 6 weeks of your life while your local dealer who is swamped fixing other fools machines dicks around with it. A $4000+ mistake. If this guy wanted to make a useful video, he'd make one showing how to disable all the features that will invariable leave it stranded at the farthest point from your driveway. Garbage.
This module failed on my 5060 yesterday while mowing. Luckily I was able to winch it onto my trailer to get it in the garage where I could work on it. Not crazy about this design, but between the EPA and all of the other Nanny State government agencies trying to make everything idiot proof, it's a wonder these things work at all. If you have any doubts about that, buy a new gas can and try to pour gas into your vehicle with it. Anyway, I've had this mower for 3 yrs and put about 200 hrs on it. The only other problem I've had was a shredded drive belt about a year ago, and I run this thing wide open all the time,. Sometimes the grass is a foot tall before I get a chance to cut it. Lots of folks bashing these mowers on here...but I have been pleased with mine.
I've got the 3200, and today I can't get the brakes to release. Moved the handles in and out but you cannot hear the brakes release. Can this be converted to a manual brake? Tried the manual break release but they do not disengage, both levers were pushed in.
If you find a wiring diagram to bypass this let me know. I currently took the rods off of mine and safety wired the brakes open so now I have to strap it down to my trailer because I don't have brakes. if you ever go this route be aware that it will continuously run your hour meter up and you have to manually go underneath there and move the brake actuator to the other side to make it start. Also I have to turn the key off and swing the arms in to make the motor shut off due to a safety. It's funky and all jacked up but that switch is bypassable but I would like to bypass it through the circuitry so it doesn't run my hour meter up
@@stinkyvonfishstix4196 I ended up disconnecting the rods from the module, then pulling them forward and tying them down with a wire, otherwise they pull into the brake position automatically or droop down onto the belt. Correct that the auto brake no longer works, but it shuts off fine with the key. It does have an issue starting where I simply hold the key then suddenly it will begin to crank to start, I know the module is bad. Not sure what an 'hour meter' is, something I'll have to check into now.EDIT... looked it up and mine never came with one, wasn't aware they existed. Spiffy.
The brake system on these Toro's is pretty fickle. I've had mine repaired twice and it's costly. The brake setting lever can sometimes move too. Check it first. Thinkin' of getting a John Deere or something a little more pricey but reliable next go round.
I have a MX 5050 and I had to replace the brake control module 3 times the last one lasted 3 weeks. Buy a new zero turn but because of this module it won't be a toro. Its too bad because this is the only complaint I have with the toro, but its a $100 a shot and a pain
Same problem here. Completely locked up. Cannot move the machine at all. The brake engages/re-engages repeatedly even when engine is shut off, and key removed. Super frustrated. Do I need to replace the entire brake control module? Part #121-3017
The only thing this mower is good for is taking up space in the garage, I have only mowed 3 times with this mower and gone through 2 controllers and it is down AGAIN!!!! Junk
it will and they cost around 100 plus installing them isn't so easy either - - i am in the middle of replacing my second one in 2 years POS POS and POS
I found on mine that water had gotten into the plug area and caused corrosion. When that happened, the mower would not move even though I could hear the drives engaging. The brake locks and drive disengagement would not release without disconnecting the battery and manually rotating the release. What was most disturbing was the engine would no longer shut off even with the key turned off, I had to get out of the seat and engage one of the drive handles to kill the engine. Not a very safe fail-safe.....
+TheRuralRefugee Did you have to replace the brake control module (part #121-3017)? I have the same issue, but not sure how to resolve it. I can't even get it/roll it back on my trailer to take to repair shop.
I have the Toro 4225 and it's done nothing but give me problems since I bought it, never again will I buy this type of mower. I also own an old Yardman 38" mower and owned it for over 13 years and never had any mechanical problems with it.
So tired everything you buy now comes with modules. I like that last line That’s al it is to To it. Got all this electronic that cost a fortune run two years then you have to start spending more after you just spent 7000 dollars. As for me I was told there is a way to bypass every bit of this junk I will be willing to pay for it. Why can’t we leave things simply!
Swear that someone had a brother who failed electrical engineering school and was hired by toro to make this bs. I'd never buy a toro after working on the one in my garage for a customer.
What a heaping pile of garbage this thing is! There is no substitute for a manual linkage on a parking brake. I work on mowers and these Toro brake control modules are a joke. These modules are basically the brains of the entire mower. When they go bad everything quits working. So your mower breaks down with a bad brake control module and you pull the levers to release the hydro so you can push your mower back to the shed but it still won't move! So you'll have to crawl underneath of it and disconnect the parking brake arms to get the pile of crap back to the shed to work on it! LOL
More reliability?? Lol!!!!!! Engineers completely fucked up a decent mower brand. This one part is turning people away from Toro zero turns. This brake control is a complete piece of crap and the mowers that have this part have a ridiculous wiring set up. Good job Toro. Lol
Did you get to the bottom of it? Based on this video, I'm guessing it's THIS part - the brake control module. I had the same problem a couple summers ago and had it fixed but don't remember what was needed to fix it. I called up the repair shop and they don't have my records which is unbelievable. I'm about ready to order this part but looking for confirmation that it's the problem.
cwdressen ... Yes it was a bad connection to the brake module ... the black and green wire had rusted a little... also a bad connection in the seat safety switch... some sandpaper and zip ties fixed it.
When this module fails your mower will not turn over, start or move. It fails with the brakes locked. Terrible design for a part that costs $125.00 and will fail, ask me how I know. I own a Timecutter 50 inch and it has given me more problems than any mower I have ever bought. I will never buy another Toro.
I bought a new 42 toro..3 days later brake control problems..your video is a joke...non stop electrical problems the last 2 years..dealer mechanic is also frustrated...
I’m late to this party but we’ve owned an SS5500 for almost five years and it has been totally faultless except for the solenoid I replaced yesterday. We regularly cut 2 1/2 acres with it. Runs great.
FYI - I had this same problem. I disconnected the linkage to the breaks so I could move the machine. I then stopped at a dealership and picked up a new BCM. Only took 10 minutes to install. I thought I was home free. Not so much. With the new BCM installed and connected, I still had problems. The brake actuator would partially move. Ther mower would start and charge, but engaging the blade killed it after 10 seconds. I thought I had installed a faulty module but when I went back to the dealership, the tech asked me if it was possible there was corrosion on the pins of the connector. I went home and spent 10 minutes disconnecting the harness to the module, inspected it and found corrosion on 2 of the pins. After a thorough cleaning, I reconnected the module and bang, everything now works fine. In my view, the problem is not a faulty module, but the connection between the harness and the module. Dirt and moisture can get in even though there is a cover over the assembly. I removed the new assembly and put in the old assembly and it worked fine. Perhaps there are cases where the poor connection can cause the module to fail? I don't think there is a problem with the assembly, there is a problem with the connector and corrosion. I have now completely wrapped the harness and connector to the new assembly with electrical tape to keep it weather and dust proof. Try this before replacing your BCM. It only takes 10 minutes.
perhaps silicone spray on the internal circuit board as well
Thank you for this. Sounds like it is the 1st thing to do before buying a $100 part.
Sure wish I read this comment before replacing my brake controller and battery. Now I'm gonna clean the leads and see if that works. Looks like there was some kind of white paste in there already when I was replacing the controller. I figured it was put there from the factory to help prevent grime from getting in.
Thank you
Clean it with what?
I just spent time and money chasing this problem myself, because getting it to a shop would have been difficult, and because I like to fix stuff. I did start from the power end, first replacing the battery (just because it was several years old). I wasn't hearing any sounds that suggested a solenoid issue. Then after watching a bunch of RUclips videos, I became convinced that the park brake module was bad. Those aren't cheap and they aren't easy to replace. (Perhaps no surprise that several of the videos in fact had to do with jumping or shorting the module switches, to disable the brake. I wasn't keen on doing that. I wanted a fix.) Could hear the PTO clutch "click" when that button was pulled, so figured that was probably okay. Mystery was that the park brake disengaged when I turned the key to "On," even with the control levers in the extended "Park" position. After turning the key off, the module would again actuate -- but only after 5-7 seconds -- and re-set the brake. So, okay, the new module DOES work (and the old one probably did, too -- glad I kept it), but it's getting bad instructions. I went in to test the switches, starting on the left. I discovered that the wire connector to the switch was loose. I cleaned it up (grass out, dielectric spray on) and reattached it. Mower started right up and runs fine, now that the park brake actuator isn't getting mixed signals. Long, circuitous route to a simple fix, but I got some new parts on the machine and learned a lot, so at least there's that. I'm going to re-post this as a comment to some of the other videos I watched, in case it might be useful to others with the no-start problem.
Hey thanks for this. After cleaning up the connector, etc. was there still a 5-7second delay?
@@knock3x Nope. Everything worked on time, as intended. I believe the delayed activation had to do with the module getting conflicting signals from the two control bar switches. The module is just a servo (small electric motor driving some gears, which in turn release or engage the park brake cogs). One of my first guesses was that one of the plastic gears inside the module had broken or become stripped. That wasn't the case. I'm inclined now to think that most replacements of these park brake modules are not solving the problem, which lies somewhere else. There are plenty of RUclips videos on how to short the wiring to the control bar switches and see if the module/actuator itself in fact works okay.
Isn't it supposed to be delayed?
@@jayrose9463 No reason to think so. When you push the control bars to the side, thereby depressing the park brake switches, you should be able to confidently assume that the brake is on -- even if the mower is still running (with or without the PTO engaged -- of course, if engaged, you can't leave the seat without killing the engine.) With a delay, the utility and safety factors in a parking brake would be compromised, at least during the delay.
This alone has kept me from buying a new toro. Probably gonna go with a Hustler 42"
I have the SS5000 - These are a yearly purchase - very subject to problems.
@@riceski I feel your pain. Mine eats blade belts at the rate of 2 a year. I always have 2 spare blade and drive belts in the shed. Don't get me started on drive spindles and bearings. I'll never buy another Toro. Next one will be a Ferris.
Very helpful demonstration of how to manually disengage the parking brake at 05:35 - couldn't figure it out from the diagram alone, this was a big help!
You saved me. I was looking for a vid on how to manually disengage the brake and was giving up on the video when it got into the wiring explanation but then saw your comment. Thank you very much.
Reliability? The last one I replaced didn't last a full year. Thinking of selling my ss5000 because of this issue considering the part is between $100-$125 and has to be replaced every year. I've bypassed the POS and will never buy another Toro mower.
If you look at this diagram, you see there is a wire leaving the module going to ground(an upside down Christmas tree) If this is an actual wire, this is the wire to put a switch in series with. If this is a ground that goes through the body of the module, then your going to have to isolate that module from ground and use the switch you have to buy to get a ground too the module. Everything would be a lot simpler if Toro and it’s “ENGINEERS” would figure out away to make this lawn mower more dependable. I don’t need a company rep telling me about the problem, I need a company rep to tell it fixed. I guess I’ll be buying a John Deere, alittle more price wise. But I won’t be spend $100.00 every time I want to use it.
I am glad I saw some videoes first.It is a good looking machine and was ready to fork over cash for it.Glad I waited instead of impulse buying.
Toro MX505: Turns ON - Full idle power is OK - Cutting Deck is OK to turn ON - BUT if you put it in drive to back up or drive it cuts power and stalls out every time. It turned out it was NOT the seat (sitting) sensor, or a fuse, or a transmission issue. It was a stick wedged under the back part of the mower on the bottom that must have been interfering. I wanted to mention that in case it could help anyone. Make sure the belts for both the Deck area in front and under the motor area in back are free of debris.
These modules are an absolute nightmare. Thankfully mine has lasted about 3 years. Neighbor had to replace his after only 40 hours. Worst piece of electronic engineering ever made. Totally stopped the mower dead in it's tracks. I couldn't move the brake levers on the module. They were locked solid. I had to by pass the module and secure the brake rods and away it went. The replacement was a whisker of $420.00. Yes, you read that right.
I have a TimeCutter 4225. Don’t get one. There is no fix. Once it starts going bad, it keeps going bad.
That was the one I was planning to purchase but I saw so many problems with this trash.
Have the SS5000 and just replaced one last year. New mowing season and it appears to be bad again one year later.
Yep, like everyone else has said. Toro TimeCutter is Garbage. Used mine maybe five times, and brake control module already went out. Luckily, this video does show how to manually disengage the brake, which allowed me to continue to use the mower.
TimeCutter ss4225. I haven't even owned this mower for a full two months yet in the module just went out on me. Yeah it's under warranty but it's still a hassle and how many times am I going to have to mess with this from what I'm reading here? What happens when the warranty is gone? Buy one or two of these a year??? I dont think so....Gunna try to get my money back. I suggest you look around before you settle for this one
Thankyou for a very good video. I have installed a new ignition switch (genuine) to replace a dodgy car type switch installed by a previous owner. When the engine is running and I engage the PTO switch the starter motor operates. Can you help with some advice please?
Rick from Aus
I bought one of these mowers today from Home Depot. When they went to load it on my truck they couldn't get it to roll. Someone there knew to tap on the brake actuator to get it to roll. That should have told me then and there not to take the mower. I took it home anyway. I put gas in it and started it. It wouldn't move. I couldn't get it off the truck. I took it back to the store and they cancelled the sale for me. Super disappointed. When I got back to the store, there was another customer there returning the exact same mower for the exact same reason. Obviously these actuators have a problem.
Run don't walk away from this piece of garbage. Run like you're on fire. I have an MX5060 that has spent more time at the shop than at my home in the two years since I bought it. Apparently I just ran over a stick or a really tough patch of grass and the brake system locked up. Something is always going wrong with it. Had the brain box replaced once. 42 different "safety" features designed to lock this thing up and ruin the next 4 to 6 weeks of your life while your local dealer who is swamped fixing other fools machines dicks around with it. A $4000+ mistake. If this guy wanted to make a useful video, he'd make one showing how to disable all the features that will invariable leave it stranded at the farthest point from your driveway. Garbage.
This is VERY accurate. Over engineered piece of crap.
You are so right!!! I spend more time fixing this POS than I do mowing!!!
This module failed on my 5060 yesterday while mowing. Luckily I was able to winch it onto my trailer to get it in the garage where I could work on it. Not crazy about this design, but between the EPA and all of the other Nanny State government agencies trying to make everything idiot proof, it's a wonder these things work at all. If you have any doubts about that, buy a new gas can and try to pour gas into your vehicle with it. Anyway, I've had this mower for 3 yrs and put about 200 hrs on it. The only other problem I've had was a shredded drive belt about a year ago, and I run this thing wide open all the time,. Sometimes the grass is a foot tall before I get a chance to cut it. Lots of folks bashing these mowers on here...but I have been pleased with mine.
I've got the 3200, and today I can't get the brakes to release. Moved the handles in and out but you cannot hear the brakes release.
Can this be converted to a manual brake? Tried the manual break release but they do not disengage, both levers were pushed in.
If you find a wiring diagram to bypass this let me know. I currently took the rods off of mine and safety wired the brakes open so now I have to strap it down to my trailer because I don't have brakes. if you ever go this route be aware that it will continuously run your hour meter up and you have to manually go underneath there and move the brake actuator to the other side to make it start. Also I have to turn the key off and swing the arms in to make the motor shut off due to a safety. It's funky and all jacked up but that switch is bypassable but I would like to bypass it through the circuitry so it doesn't run my hour meter up
@@stinkyvonfishstix4196 I ended up disconnecting the rods from the module, then pulling them forward and tying them down with a wire, otherwise they pull into the brake position automatically or droop down onto the belt. Correct that the auto brake no longer works, but it shuts off fine with the key. It does have an issue starting where I simply hold the key then suddenly it will begin to crank to start, I know the module is bad. Not sure what an 'hour meter' is, something I'll have to check into now.EDIT... looked it up and mine never came with one, wasn't aware they existed. Spiffy.
Same problem with my exmark quest with less than 200 hundred hours. I've had it replaced 4 times
The brake system on these Toro's is pretty fickle. I've had mine repaired twice and it's costly. The brake setting lever can sometimes move too. Check it first. Thinkin' of getting a John Deere or something a little more pricey but reliable next go round.
I have a MX 5050 and I had to replace the brake control module 3 times the last one lasted 3 weeks. Buy a new zero turn but because of this module it won't be a toro. Its too bad because this is the only complaint I have with the toro, but its a $100 a shot and a pain
Same problem here. Completely locked up. Cannot move the machine at all. The brake engages/re-engages repeatedly even when engine is shut off, and key removed. Super frustrated. Do I need to replace the entire brake control module? Part #121-3017
It went bad on my smaller 32 inch and I didn't have any issues with warranty I also have a 48 inch Titan.
The only thing this mower is good for is taking up space in the garage, I have only mowed 3 times with this mower and gone through 2 controllers and it is down AGAIN!!!! Junk
Does anyone know if a bad brake control module will prevent the engine from starting?
k Meredith yes
it will and they cost around 100 plus installing them isn't so easy either - - i am in the middle of replacing my second one in 2 years POS POS and POS
My SS 5000 has begun backfiring when I engage the blades. Any ideas?
Bad GAS-- BAD BAD GAS GAS ---- more than likely - it's losing power from bad gas --
I found on mine that water had gotten into the plug area and caused corrosion. When that happened, the mower would not move even though I could hear the drives engaging. The brake locks and drive disengagement would not release without disconnecting the battery and manually rotating the release. What was most disturbing was the engine would no longer shut off even with the key turned off, I had to get out of the seat and engage one of the drive handles to kill the engine. Not a very safe fail-safe.....
+TheRuralRefugee Did you have to replace the brake control module (part #121-3017)? I have the same issue, but not sure how to resolve it. I can't even get it/roll it back on my trailer to take to repair shop.
I've had my time cutter 5050 for 6 years replaced only 1 deck bearing.the mower itself has been flawless I love it very dependable
I have the Toro 4225 and it's done nothing but give me problems since I bought it, never again will I buy this type of mower. I also own an old Yardman 38" mower and owned it for over 13 years and never had any mechanical problems with it.
Should be a recall on this poor design brake module
I have the same problem brake won't release and engine won't shut off. What is the need repair?
man im dealing with this exact problem now thx sooo much
I need this driagram how can I get it??, thank you😊
my electric motor wont turn off. Mower is off but the brake module keeps running
Not me! Never again Toro!
So tired everything you buy now comes with modules. I like that last line That’s al it is to To it. Got all this electronic that cost a fortune run two years then you have to start spending more after you just spent 7000 dollars. As for me I was told there is a way to bypass every bit of this junk I will be willing to pay for it. Why can’t we leave things simply!
Does anyone know if a bad brake module could make pto not engage
Swear that someone had a brother who failed electrical engineering school and was hired by toro to make this bs. I'd never buy a toro after working on the one in my garage for a customer.
What a heaping pile of garbage this thing is! There is no substitute for a manual linkage on a parking brake. I work on mowers and these Toro brake control modules are a joke. These modules are basically the brains of the entire mower. When they go bad everything quits working. So your mower breaks down with a bad brake control module and you pull the levers to release the hydro so you can push your mower back to the shed but it still won't move! So you'll have to crawl underneath of it and disconnect the parking brake arms to get the pile of crap back to the shed to work on it! LOL
Just did this to my mower,now it just cranks and wont start
More reliability?? Lol!!!!!! Engineers completely fucked up a decent mower brand. This one part is turning people away from Toro zero turns. This brake control is a complete piece of crap and the mowers that have this part have a ridiculous wiring set up. Good job Toro. Lol
It's a piece of crap that can give the owner more headaches.
mine dies when i engage the handles. has anyone had this problem that can maybe point me in the right direction. and yeah i know its a piece of shit
Graceful Espeon same here... looking for a way to bypass it.
Did you get to the bottom of it? Based on this video, I'm guessing it's THIS part - the brake control module. I had the same problem a couple summers ago and had it fixed but don't remember what was needed to fix it. I called up the repair shop and they don't have my records which is unbelievable. I'm about ready to order this part but looking for confirmation that it's the problem.
cwdressen ... Yes it was a bad connection to the brake module ... the black and green wire had rusted a little... also a bad connection in the seat safety switch... some sandpaper and zip ties fixed it.
Thank you!
When this module fails your mower will not turn over, start or move. It fails with the brakes locked. Terrible design for a part that costs $125.00 and will fail, ask me how I know. I own a Timecutter 50 inch and it has given me more problems than any mower I have ever bought. I will never buy another Toro.
It’s nothing but a problem and high price junk😢
I bought a new 42 toro..3 days later brake control problems..your video is a joke...non stop electrical problems the last 2 years..dealer mechanic is also frustrated...
My MX5050 shuts off when you move the control arms to the park position, anyone have this problem?
The controller is going bad ASAP
Yes these damn things suck ass! Big piece of crap! I am on my second one! Just Junk! Will never buy another toro!
this is the second brake module that failed on our toro. piece of crap.
I will not be buying one ue to this piece of trash.They always go bad and cost $100.
Seems like a lot of bullshit just buy something else