Drawer Joinery Explained | Paul Sellers
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- We should never take too much for granted, especially when it comes to which joints are used for this or that.
If no one has explained the reasoning behind drawer joint choices, this simple video will help. Drawers take a lot of stresses and strains, and the dovetail joint is the signature joint of drawers and boxes. But did you know that a housing dado can also improve the functionality of a drawer?
This video will walk you through the reasoning for both joints.
--------------------
For more free woodworking videos, please consider subscribing to my channel:
www.youtube.co...
Want to learn more about woodworking?
Go to Woodworking Masterclasses for weekly project episodes: bit.ly/2JeH3a9
Go to Common Woodworking for step-by-step beginner guides and courses: bit.ly/35VQV2o
bit.ly/2BXmuei for Paul’s latest ventures on his blog
--------------------
Instagram: bit.ly/2oWpy7W
Facebook- bit.ly/2JgKHQS
Twitter- bit.ly/33S7RFa
Pinterest- bit.ly/35X5uTf
The dovetail I fully understand.
The cantilever I have never considered before. What a brilliant piece of functional design.
Mind you! Stuff will disappear down the back when "She Who Must Be Obeyed" inevitably overfills the drawer.
Seriously though! Thank you Paul. I never fail to get pleasure and ideas from your vid's.
One and only: Paul Sellers💙
This man is 'The Guvnor'. Nothing superfluous in design, method or presentation. Simply what you need to know.
What a beautiful drawers fronts!
I knew why we use a dovetail but not why we use a housing dado. Thank you
Thanks, Paul! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
And happy holidays!
Brilliant!
I had never considered WHY a dovetail before. Never thought of it in STRUCTURAL terms.
Now I know.
Thanks Mr S.
Thank you for sharing this wonderful video, clearly explaining the benefits of this type of drawer making. Everyone stay safe, warm, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
Great videos. Always exactly what you need to know and nothing more. Paul is great at explaining his methods.
When making a smaller set of drawers, is there an advantage to inset drawer rails/guides vs the full square interior support? Also would love a video on tips for how to get smooth drawer pulls.
Good idea with the extensions 👍
The haunches at the back are a great design for a fully functional
Drawer 👍
Thanks for that little tip! I would never have though of this one.
I would LOVE to see your method of cutting a dado at an angle. Say the sides of a shelf unit are angled inward at 5 degrees, and you want the shelf to be perfectly horizontal, and the bottom of the dado to be parallel with the sides.
The amount of crap I stuff in drawers applies significant side pressure, so perhaps I should stick with dovetails for all four corners. 😉
Thanks, Paul! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
And happy holidays!
Excellent thanks Paul, another useful nugget of knowledge to store for future reference !
Btw the grain on those drawer fronts is amazing !
Dear Paul, very informative video that I really like, together, of course, with all the fantastic work you're doing teaching people about this wonderful craft. One other things that I feel is taken for granted is the size. Example: how deep can a housing dado be in pine or in oak and still be safe, functional and long lasting. The dovetail joint has been addressed many times, for the rest? How one would find the acceptable depth for a shelf let's say, maybe based on the rest of dimensions or the weight you put on a shelf for? 1/3 of the width of the vertical sides? half? All these design principles that are not part of the look but very important for a long lasting piece of furniture.
When explained as clearly as this, the case for the two different joints appears to be a simple matter of common sense. Or a great example of form following function if you prefer. Excellent.
Real joinery, no pocket holes, perfect. 👌
0:41 Thank you. I'll do that if I ever make drawers.
beautiful chest! what kind of wood is that?
That's a lovely little piece (chest of drawers)
Paul, you taught me. I just hand cut dovetails for the top of a hall table. Next, through and wedged tenons for half way down the legs. This will be a knock-down table by a door and a space for items after after entering. No glue. Easy to knock down when moving and I bet the structure will be great and steady with the wedged tenons on the outside of the legs and the tight dovetails on top that won't let it spread.
Perfect video.
😃
Hi Paul. I know you’re quite modest gentleman. But it would be great to see pictures or actual shots of your work while convalescing.
Extensions at the back of drawer sides is world-shattering. I've never come across that anywhere, and of course - like all products of genius - it is both simple and obvious once you learn about it. "All drawers must extend fully" is near the top of my list of Rules For a Perfect World. And now I feel like I can make those drawers myself, with no hardware, a few hand tools, and two joints. Thank you once again, Paul, for making life better in two minutes.
P.S. Is there by any chance a simple, elegant solution that keeps the drawer from being pulled completely out of the frame unless you intend to? Because I know with absolute certainty that I would still somehow manage to do that on the regular.
Lovely, thank you Paul!
If modern wood glue is stronger than wood itself, do we actually need joints like dove tails?
Do you mean the hide glue is weak ?
ok, try joinery things with modern glue on butt joints )
No, you don't need dove tails. I have an IKEA unit my wife bought, and it just uses dowels and metal fasteners to join the drawer fronts. Those drawer fronts have significantly outlasted the rest of the shoddy piece, which she's now looking to replace after five years! That's about right (5-10 years) for modern consumerism I'd say. If you're looking for something that will last 100-200 years, then a mechanical joint will more than stand that, even after the glue has disintegrated. It is my belief that our economic system will change in the coming decades, and we'll have to go through a reduction in consumption. Furniture will once again be for life and passed down. If you were building something to last several generations, then it would be silly not to spend the additional time on the mechanical advantages and belt and braces approach of dovetails and housing dados.
No. Finger join will work just fine. However, it isn't a half nice.
@@ricos1497 I've had the opposite experience with IKEA drawers. We bought some MALM under bed boxes, and you have to pull on the front to open, there are no knobs. Within a year, one of the fronts fell off and needed to be epoxied back on. The others are loosening too.
@@Unownerdead I see renters throwing out heaps of junky furniture every time they move. I bet a lot of that stuff doesn't last more than a year or two.