I just did both the shifter and the brake lever bolt upgrade kit from Camel ADV and I have to say, the brake lever side is much more of a PITA. You have the spring, zero room to add the washer and o ring to the back of the bolt before threading in, and you have the brake switch to be mindful of damaging. Would be worth a video in itself.
@@MotoPhotoAdventures it’s not a one piece design so there are more individual parts to keep track of and install in the correct order. I didn’t have any issue’s, but it is definitely not as easy as the shifter side imo.
I just put this kit on my bike this weekend and I agree. Though it probably isn't any more of a pain than the normal bolt setup, just one more piece to juggle (I just used a piece of tape to hold things together as a third hand while I got things lined up). I will say I learned something about why some people who review the shifter on the tuareg have different opinions about the shifting itself. Just a few foot pounds or nm too tight and the selector spring inside the transmission gets overwhelmed so you get kind of a "lazy" shift. Mine was over torqued from the factory and, in some boots, I would really have to force an upshift. Now that I swapped out the pivot bolt and properly torqued it (not 100+nm lol) it actually shifts really well. I think this also explains why when you get a QS installed the shifting seems to improve a lot. It depends on how much pasta your italian man had at lunch when he built your bike.
You can purchase a download of the factory service manual here: www.af1racing.com/manual-2q000524-oem-aprilia-service-manual-for-tuareg-2q000524. It has all the torque specs, as well as how to service and maintain your Tuareg 660. Hope this helps!
FYI, I installed the titanium bolt in both sides, and a single drop, static, on the left side (shifter) broke the bolt. Lever and everything else is fine. Extracting a piece of titanium is waaay more difficult than extracting a steel one, so I'm back to the stock bolt, at least it's easier to pull of...
@@aegetswil1 that stinks! This raises some concern. I wonder if the titanium bolts somehow get week over time and we're now seeing more break than they initially reported? I'll have to reach out and see what they say!
Use a dermal tool cutting wheel to make a small slot in the face of the threaded end so if it does break, you can use a screwdriver on the backside to remove the broken threaded piece.
how do you access that end? i dont have my bike yet, do i dont understand how difficult it would be and if any extra or sepcial screwdriver is required. Maybe when i recevie the bike I will understand it.
@@Rod990ktm the bolt itself is very easy to access. You just need the right size allen key. If you want to cut the slot in the back side of the bolt with a dremel tool (as some have suggested), you will want to do that before you insert the bolt. If you don't want to upgrade to the titanium bolt, it's not a bad idea to simply pull the stock bolt out and cut a slot in the bottom, then re-insert it. That slot is just there so you can get a flat-head screwdriver in there to remove the tip of the bolt in the event that the front have brakes off in a fall. It'll make sense when you get your bike! So far I've done quite a bit of off-road adventures with my bike and haven't had a problem.
I am doing this on my Tuareg, but my concern is that if the bolt is no longer the weak point, will it now possibly damage the transmission instead. As much of a pain as drilling out a broken bolt is, I imagine having to replace a cracked part of the transmission would be far worse. I guess I am just hoping the root or whatever I hit is weaker than that part of the transmission.
I'm not sure what you mean? The quick shifter came installed on mine. It's the usual 1 down, neutral, and 5 up shifting pattern. You can either use the clutch and shift normally, or just skip the clutch if you're on technical terrain or need to shift faster. The quick shifter is an absolute BLAST!!! I wouldn't get the bike without it.
this quick shifter maintains std. shift pattern. GP (reverse shift pattern is) only helpful for road racing and has no advantage for an adventure bike.
Yea, lack of parts availability is a huge issue. Probably the main advantage GM had was the sharing of parts, they used the same starter in 100s of different models. From the 1950 to 2000, there were half a dozen tail light and signal light lamp for all the cars in America, 1156 (single filament) 1157 (dual filament). The parts failed often, but were cheap and available. Now I carry zip ties, gorilla tape, and ROK straps. I have to carry a 12mm hex and a 30mm socket, because these are not in every garage and are needed to change tires!
Hey Steven! Excellent points all around, my friend. The next video I'm working on has to do with exactly your point...I switched out a key bolt on my bike because the factory one is an odd size that I can't find a lightweight wrench for!!!
Its great that you did an updated video. When I make a mistake, I just remove the video! - Frank
Good point! I always think about RUclips as being permanent. Forgot I could actually delete it...DUH!!!
I just did both the shifter and the brake lever bolt upgrade kit from Camel ADV and I have to say, the brake lever side is much more of a PITA. You have the spring, zero room to add the washer and o ring to the back of the bolt before threading in, and you have the brake switch to be mindful of damaging. Would be worth a video in itself.
I'm not sure how the Camel ADV kit works. But in this video, we replaced the brake lever bolt without any issues.
@@MotoPhotoAdventures it’s not a one piece design so there are more individual parts to keep track of and install in the correct order. I didn’t have any issue’s, but it is definitely not as easy as the shifter side imo.
Ahhh...i checked out their product. I understand now.
I just put this kit on my bike this weekend and I agree. Though it probably isn't any more of a pain than the normal bolt setup, just one more piece to juggle (I just used a piece of tape to hold things together as a third hand while I got things lined up). I will say I learned something about why some people who review the shifter on the tuareg have different opinions about the shifting itself. Just a few foot pounds or nm too tight and the selector spring inside the transmission gets overwhelmed so you get kind of a "lazy" shift. Mine was over torqued from the factory and, in some boots, I would really have to force an upshift. Now that I swapped out the pivot bolt and properly torqued it (not 100+nm lol) it actually shifts really well. I think this also explains why when you get a QS installed the shifting seems to improve a lot. It depends on how much pasta your italian man had at lunch when he built your bike.
Where can I find a list with what force the bolts in the tuareg should be tightened? Thanks
You can purchase a download of the factory service manual here: www.af1racing.com/manual-2q000524-oem-aprilia-service-manual-for-tuareg-2q000524. It has all the torque specs, as well as how to service and maintain your Tuareg 660. Hope this helps!
FYI, I installed the titanium bolt in both sides, and a single drop, static, on the left side (shifter) broke the bolt. Lever and everything else is fine. Extracting a piece of titanium is waaay more difficult than extracting a steel one, so I'm back to the stock bolt, at least it's easier to pull of...
Oh wow! Good to know. I would let AF1 Racing know. When I installed these, to their knowledge no one had ever broken a titanium one.
Same here. Mine broke as well.
@@aegetswil1 that stinks! This raises some concern. I wonder if the titanium bolts somehow get week over time and we're now seeing more break than they initially reported? I'll have to reach out and see what they say!
@@aegetswil1 how did you go about it? Did you drop it slowly or you came off going fast?
Use a dermal tool cutting wheel to make a small slot in the face of the threaded end so if it does break, you can use a screwdriver on the backside to remove the broken threaded piece.
That's an excellent tip!
how do you access that end? i dont have my bike yet, do i dont understand how difficult it would be and if any extra or sepcial screwdriver is required. Maybe when i recevie the bike I will understand it.
@@Rod990ktm the bolt itself is very easy to access. You just need the right size allen key. If you want to cut the slot in the back side of the bolt with a dremel tool (as some have suggested), you will want to do that before you insert the bolt. If you don't want to upgrade to the titanium bolt, it's not a bad idea to simply pull the stock bolt out and cut a slot in the bottom, then re-insert it. That slot is just there so you can get a flat-head screwdriver in there to remove the tip of the bolt in the event that the front have brakes off in a fall. It'll make sense when you get your bike! So far I've done quite a bit of off-road adventures with my bike and haven't had a problem.
I kind of wonder, if I'll find that special bolt somewhere here in Europe.
I don't know. But here is the link where I bought it: www.af1racing.com/tntispap14kit-titanium-pivot-bolt-sold-each. Maybe they can ship to Europe?
I am doing this on my Tuareg, but my concern is that if the bolt is no longer the weak point, will it now possibly damage the transmission instead. As much of a pain as drilling out a broken bolt is, I imagine having to replace a cracked part of the transmission would be far worse. I guess I am just hoping the root or whatever I hit is weaker than that part of the transmission.
Althought the titanium bolt is stronger than the OEM bolt, it will still break if enough force is exerted on it. It's not make of kryptonite! 🙂
@@MotoPhotoAdventures Thanks. I hope you are right. I am sure you are screwing it into a softer metal than titanium.
Hopefully the thing that gives is the shift lever/brake and nothing else.
Can the quick shifter be installed without the reverse shifting (race style.)?
I'm not sure what you mean? The quick shifter came installed on mine. It's the usual 1 down, neutral, and 5 up shifting pattern. You can either use the clutch and shift normally, or just skip the clutch if you're on technical terrain or need to shift faster. The quick shifter is an absolute BLAST!!! I wouldn't get the bike without it.
this quick shifter maintains std. shift pattern. GP (reverse shift pattern is) only helpful for road racing and has no advantage for an adventure bike.
@@larsihle9256 thanks for sharing!
Yea, lack of parts availability is a huge issue. Probably the main advantage GM had was the sharing of parts, they used the same starter in 100s of different models. From the 1950 to 2000, there were half a dozen tail light and signal light lamp for all the cars in America, 1156 (single filament) 1157 (dual filament). The parts failed often, but were cheap and available.
Now I carry zip ties, gorilla tape, and ROK straps. I have to carry a 12mm hex and a 30mm socket, because these are not in every garage and are needed to change tires!
Hey Steven! Excellent points all around, my friend. The next video I'm working on has to do with exactly your point...I switched out a key bolt on my bike because the factory one is an odd size that I can't find a lightweight wrench for!!!
Go TITANIUM or go home! Sweet vid great work!
Thanks man! Making my bike stronger and lighter...one bolt at a time. HAHA!!!