I have been working on vehicles for well over 50 years. I always thought that the older vehicles were way easier to work on but that is probably only my imagination. Anyway, I have an '02 Dakota quadcab which is a daily driver in our family. The fuel pump quit on it. I got new parts to repair it and I got to looking at how to do this. While there really is no mystery, it is a huge help to see someone who knows the little tricks for hoses, electrical connectors, fuel filler spout and tank straps actually show us how in a video. I know it is going to save me breaking something when I do this job on our truck! Thanx so much for making the video, explaining as you went and posting it!
@@TonyTheTruckGuy On a quad cab though, the fuel pump is under the cab, so, removing the bed will not get access to the fuel pump and you'll still be underneath the truck removing the tank anyway, By the way, due to my working out of town a lot recently, I only got this fuel pump changed this past weekend, which, in Canada, where I live, was a long weekend (Queen Victoria's birthday). I never did find the correct hardware for the fuel tank straps due to most places being closed.... I used two pieces of 3/8" NC by 3 1/4" long "all thread" which I double nutted up in the crossmembers and aligned the hexes while tightening them. I was easily able to hold them from turning with an open end wrench. Anyway, it is all back together and running. It starts. now, on about the first crank of the engine. Like I said a few weeks ago - thanx again for posting this video. I looked at a few others as well - yours was, I must say, the most to the point, coherent and easy to follow.
@@fastman6148 Haha yeah I had forgotten that the different cab configurations change where the pump is accessed. Thanks for the update and the positive feedback! Glad you got time to get it done!
Really appreciate the video, i always second guess myself on what to do with these kinds of things. I'm glad i live in such a dry climate so i don't have to deal with all that rust. this seems much easier than lifting the bed off lol.
Excellent, detailed, video.. My truck has about 210K and even if the fuel pump still works great ,I plan to install a new one... Thank you for posting!
coulda just waited an extra day or two, and those straps mighta rusted clean through and dropped the tank themselves. this was a great vid on this job.
So I just got done replacing my fuel pump after watching your video and it was very helpful but I wanted to add a couple points that I came across when I did mine. first of all I have a 99 Dakota sport 5.2 L. when I tried to drop the tank, I couldn’t do that without disconnecting the fuel inlet and vacuum line because it hit the frame. The bolts for removing the straps holding the tank up were longer than I could find any socket to fit so it was all box and wrench on loosening, which took forever. That ring that holds the pump in was got awful tight and I thought I was going to break something with all the pounding. I did to get that loose. Once I got the ring off and started to remove the pump, I found that it was full of at least a quart of gas which I tried to pour back in the tank, gassing everywhere. But all in all it was something I wouldn’t want to do again, but I succeeded.
Thanx for posting your comment. My guess is that the fuel pump on the earlier (97-00) trucks may be different than the truck that was shown in this video. I also watched a video showing this job done on a late '90s truck and the fuel pump has a large tub surrounding the fuel pump, so I guess that is what you must have been dealing with... Anyway, thanx again for you sharing your experience.
Hi Tony, thank you for the great video! I have a 98 Dakota with the 3.9L V6 engine. I was looking at RUclips videos to see how hard it is to replace the fuel filter. My truck stumbles at idle when it's in gear, say at a stop light for instance. After watching your video and seeing that the filter on the bottom of the pump looks literally like a piece of fabric somehow attached to the bottom of the pump, I'm almost ready to just sell the thing. What a joke! I'm kicking myself still after 22 years for not buying another make!
22 years is a pretty long service life for a vehicle though, I'd say you got your money's worth. But yeah, the filters are just cheap. Your pump or regulator may be bad, but if the 98 is like my 02, then the pump, regulator, and filter are all 1 assembly.
I have a 98 as well and though I don't have to do the pump I am doing the filler neck and hoses, and im sooo happy to see that it has hoseclamps on the tank side, cuz I was told it was quick connects
I don’t reuse those Fuel line clips. I have a ground switch on the dash to the fuel pump relay on a programmable timer switch in case of a loss of prime due to a leak, bad regulator or to put a yellow service line hose on the fuel rail schrader valve to pump some gas out. Using 6 ton jack stands under the rear axle with the driveshaft disconnected after removing the riveted in frame rail on the quad cab / extra cab and replacing them with bolts , helps a bunch. The factory straps I’ve modified by welding two sets for straps together to make it so the straps bolt in on both sides instead of the silly puzzle fitting ends that the factory uses on the drivers side. Lastly, the pump assembly can be made to be serviced separately if you take a little time and patience to modify it. The pump and regulator are available separately. You can plumb in a stand alone regulator on the fuel system as well and just ignore the regulator that failed and leave it. Remember to check for leaks, including injectors when the symptoms of a bad regulator appear as they can be very similar. I had the tiniest leak in my fuel line that you could imagine that haunted me for three tank removal processes in a row once. Treat rust early and often. Rust never sleeps.
Mine is a 2002 RT with the 5.9 liter and 16 gallon tank. SoCal truck, 139k., I understand tilting the bed and accessing from the top is the way to go, and you should replace the vac lines and wires running through while you are at it. Basically do all that stuff proactively so you don't have to do it again for another 20 years. Any suggestions on what specific parts should be replaced while i have the bed lifted? Getting ready to do my parts search now.
Sadly, this truck has succumb to Midwest salty winter and went to the scrapyard a few years back, so no more 20 years for me lol. Awesome that yours is in that good of shape still. I’d say anything going to the fuel tank should be replaced. Straps, pump, filter, breather, the plastic EVAP lines and hoses. Only other thing that’s really under there besides the frame should be wiring harness and parking brake cable.
Your video was excellent, helped me out quite a bit. Note the electric coupler has two plastic nubs that hold it to the top of the frame making it very difficult to disconnect. I broke those off out of frustration and found that they are on the new part, so no problem. Also, despite a new fuel pump, still crank no start, so back to the drawing board with other options...
Yeah....it should be a felony to use salt on the roads in the winter. Destroys everyone’s vehicles very quickly. Every time I see a plow truck, all I can think about is Johnny Depp in Pirates when he yells “stop blowing holes in my ship”! 😂
Now would be a good time to get to that brake line. Seriously good video all I wanted to see was if I needed a special tool to remove the fuel line. Those connections can be a bear, spray with break clean and shop air is my only pointer.
Thank you for the video is there a reason why the fuel pump won't turn on after you hook it up is there any other relays that actually keep the power away from the fuel pump cuz mine doesn't turn on
First make sure you have the fuel pump connector fully engaged, then make sure the truck battery is good. There is likely a fuel pump relay in the fuse box under the hood, or the one above the drivers foot area, but I’m not sure which specific location it is.
It’s not too bad if the tank is low on fuel. I’d check your straps I’m advance and order them to change out if they’re rusty like mine. And make sure the pump seal doesn’t push into the tank when you install the pump. I didn’t catch mine pushed in slightly in 1 spot, you can actually see it happen around 11:29. So if I filled my tank over 3/4, it leaked lol.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy cool man I appreciate the reply! I'm in San Diego so there's no rust and like you I'm going to switch it out and probably sell it. Been a great truck never any major issues had it since 04 and she's at 192K. Thanks again and I'll definitely subscribe 👍👍
Thank you so much for this video! We have the same vehicle, but unlike in your video our truck has a metal cross member from the left to right side of the frame below the gas tank. Did you have to take one out or bust the rivets? Because we can’t drop the front end like you did. This will be my 16 year olds daily driver to and from school, and we’re trying to make it as cost effective as possible to fix it up. And after dropping cash on replacing the whole front suspension, and back brakes, we’re going to hopefully get this done ourselves. Any advice would be so appreciated!
@@TonyTheTruckGuythanks a ton. I know it was some time ago, but about how long do you think it took you from start to finish. I do have some experience changing fuel pumps, just not on a truck that is such a pain in the butt. Trying to decide if it’s worth the $900 to have done, or if it’s something I can complete in a few hours and save $600 bucks.
@@sstevenson9293 Honestly I can’t remember with it being so long ago plus I was filming which adds time and then of course coming up for a fix on the strap bolts. If you didn’t have to mess with sucking the tank out and everything goes smoothly I’d say a couple hours.
So fun fact for people that have a 98 and dont have torx bits, you dont have to disconnect the fuel hose, it can separate from the tank its self but if you have a full tank I wouldnt do it my way, mine is at about 3/4 so it wont be that bad
If you key the ignition on with the pump plugged in and the fuel line disconnected, it will shoot fuel out of the line up at the tail where you have it disconnected. I would just leave the line connected and cycle the key a few times to prime it.
If the truck runs then the pump is good but the sending unit might be bad which is part of the pump so you’d have to replace the whole pump. That’s assuming the wiring to the pump is good
You probably have different issues. Yours sounds like possible engine ECM failure or wiring/power/ground issue to the ECM. The "bus" is the communication line that your electronics use to communicate. I'm guessing the truck just cranks because the ECM isn't providing spark to the plugs or signal to the injectors.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy I suspect that in the near future, it might be too hot and dry to sustain ANY human life here. Relocation is crossing my mind. Somewhere with water would be nice.
Just make sure the seal between the pump and tank doesn’t fall in haha, I got mine all together and it leaks gas if you fill over 3/4 tank because the seal got messed up.
This is what I needed..my 2002 is trying to start, and we put some gas into to the carb..it tried to kick it but soon died. Im thinking this is the solution. nicely done on the vid..
Dont know for sure the exact location of the tank, re main truck body on this video but I have a Dakota extended cab. Just 4 bolts holding the pickup bed on so loosen the rear bolts where it bolts to the frame and take the two front bolts off, and presto, lift the bed up, prop it with a 2x4 and work from the top. The bed is much lighter than I thought and was very light. No disconnecting lights or tank etc: The pump is on the top of the tank. Whole process was about an hour. :-)
Mine was pretty rusty so I didn’t want to risk snapping off the bed bolts haha. And we didn’t have the man power or a lift to pick up the bed unfortunately.
Hi Tony. I have a 2004 Dodge Dakota 6 Cylinder truck with an error code of P0310, a misfire in the 10th cylinder. I know a list of quick cheap fixes to hopefully conquer my problem. Yay for me (said sarcastically with a giggle). I'm confused why this error code is about a tenth cylinder when I only have six. Please explain???
Yeah something is goofy there lol, I’ve never run into that. Almost sounds like the ECM has some internal issues going on. They’re pretty cheap to find used online though if you do end up needing one.
I have a quick question. I think I bought the same pump and I compared it the original and the original is a couple inched longer. Does this mean I won’t be able to get gas from the bottom of the tank? How did yours work out over a longer period of time?
I sold this truck not long after replacing the pump, so I’m not positive how well it has held up. The precision brand pump that I got had 3 little feet o. The bottom of it that sat against the floor of the tank. I guess I never actually measured it and compared it to the original pump. But if it’s off by a few inches as you say, then yea I’d be a little concerned on if the new pump will be able to pick up fuel that’s low in the tank.
None lol. I’ve never seen any O2 sensor codes trigger from a bad fuel pump. The regulator is build into the pump and the regulator went bad because it was cranking for a long time before it would start, that’s why I changed mine.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy there is only one filter located in the pump though right? I think I just need new filter but if it's In the pump might as well just change it
My fuel pump is fine but I may need to drop the tank due to EVAP codes. This video is super helpful. Is this a rust belt truck? The rust on you truck is insane.
Before dropping the tank check the power to your evap solenoid. If it doesn't modulate and is just steady power it might be a bad ecu. Replaced the whole evap system only to finally check the electrical side. Should have known after all the work to fix the damn no bus issue on that ecu. Stupid ass jtec garbage.
I have a Dakota sport 2002 . The front driveshaft wasn't installed and I don't know how to do it right. I tried but I started to hearing a noise then I put it out again. There's no mark to guide my self.
I'm about to change a fuel pump on a Dodge just like it the fuel pump in it works but it just cranks over a ton in the mornings like it has no prime and after it sits for about an hour it loses all fuel pressure it has to crank over a bunch to start again. Does that sound like a few pump issue?
With the tank down, is it possible to get to the topside of tire winch to replace it? I have a 2000 dodge dakota with 91K miles and for a while I've heard the whining noise from the pump. And the cable wire in the the tire winch snapped some time back. To kill two birds with one stone I wanted to tilt the bed and remedy both. But if there's enough room and leverage to gain access to the topside of the winch with the tank down then it may be best to remove the fuel tank rather than lift the bed, maybe? I currently have my spare in the back of the cab
Honestly I don’t think the spare tire winch was directly above the fuel tank, but I can’t remember for sure and unfortunately, I no longer own the truck. I think the spare tire is further back than the tank, you’ll have to check. If it is, you may have to remove the bed or the crossmember that the spare tire winch is in.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy from what I can see the pump is blocked by half the cab in a quad cab. Any tips on getting straps back in place? I'm about ready to Jerry rig some brackets lol
@@joshwalters3148 Another reason I just pulled the tank haha. It’s been so long since I did this job, but I think I had the stink fairly empty and had another buddy help start the straps as I lifted the tank or used a jack to hold it up.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy ended up ordering new straps.....tried shaping the old ones, and one broke, they come in pairs so both it is lol.....truck runs great, transmission needs a rebuild though, prolly gonna sell it cheap lol
Is it possible to fix the plastic where the filler neck connects to on the tank? its right above the pump. I have a bunch of cracks on mine where i believe fumes are coming from. I used JB Weld once but it seems to still be coming out. Been thinking of replacing the whole tank xD
It may vary by year, but this one didn’t have a legit fuel filter, just the small “sock” or “screen” style filter that clips onto the bottom of the pump in the tank.
Might require a second body to help lift up on the tank. I just went Hulk mode on it since the tank was pretty empty and pushed up real hard on the tank then grab the tank straps and shove them up into the hole. You might have to “massage” the straps by working out any slack in them from the frame side and then run your hands toward the end with the studs. You can tell if the tank and straps are positioned correctly if the curvature of the strap lines up with the tank. Otherwise you could try supporting the tank with a jack and then with 2 free hands, you should be able to get the straps started.
Could you put on the video the gas tank straps info and what size your gas tank is. I have 03 and it has a 24 gallon tank trying to find the rite straps for it thanks and great video
I believe mine was also 24 gallon. I would just try RockAuto.com and select your year, make, model, and trim. I think I saw some on there at one point.
Depends how easy your bed mounting bolts come out and if you have a way to slide the bed back or lift it off without damaging it. If the straps are rusty and need replacement anyways then I’d drop the tank.
thanks to you i swapped out my old fuel pump in record time ! i wanna do heater core next any suggestions besides cap it and make some kinda custom electric?
there are two lines on tank and an arrow on pump.. arrow has to be lined up to be between those line for fuel gauge to read right.. but you can take the huge housing off and replace the filter and pump,re assemble housing then reinstall and save over $100.. but hey maybe you're in a hurry and have more money than time.. so do it his way
Yeah I usually just do the entire assembly so I don’t have to worry about possible faulty wiring going to the pump from the new pump to the hat of the assembly
I have not. 4 main bolts for sure coming from the top inside the bed. Don’t think you have to remove any back by the bumper but there may be some electrical connectors or hoses attached to the bed.
If you back to your video you will see you pinched the gasket it didn't make a complete seal. Fyi also looks like you need an input shaft seal on the yolk to rear end.
Lmao yeah, the tank would leak if I filled it above 3/4, then I rewatched the video and saw the gasket got pinched 🤦♂️ And the yoke seal did eventually get done, but now the truck has gone to the scrapyard due to cancer.
Tony The Truck Guy so honestly I’m new to this shit, and it kinda starts then looses it. Took the twist cap off the top when I dropped it a second time cause I noticed my buddy put it on cock eye. I could here it priming, battery was fine on voltage, put the new starter in after old one crapped out when we dropped the tank the first time. Im gonna re connect it today or tomorrow with some help and make sure everything is well connected. I just can’t figure out why the hell it won’t start and stay up. I can see voltage drop When trying to turn it over
Not how the pump sits on this cab and bed style. Pump doesn't sit far enough back to just cut hole in bed/take bed off. Sits right under back seats so you have to drop tank
@@danbranch5798 yes it does, I should know. I just replaced mine on the 2001 quad cab. The fuel lines that go into the tank sit in the gap between the bed box and the cab. The actual fuel pump however, sits towards the front if the vehicle about 1 foot from the fuel IN lines, under the back seats.
@@lyricsforlife5090 Argree to disagree. A real plumber uses copper. Any two bit no papers guy can do plastic pipe. It takes skill to run copper. And its better quality.
@@user-tm9xx5xs1o Mine never had any plate, just the real thin tin piece that’s basically a heat shield to protect the tank from the exhaust which you can see in a few clips here. But your truck may have come with some skid plate package
Mechanic just quoted me $700 for this job fuel pump and two straps , I want to do the job the only problem is removing the straps the bolts are hard-to-get get at severely rusted on not sure wiser just to have the mechanic deal with it and have the parts warranty in case the fuel pump fails and have to change again
Yeah, it's a toss up. You could get a new pump with new straps for probably $300 if you to the work yourself. So I guess it depends how big of a deal $400 is to you haha
Tony The Truck Guy I JUST REALIZED YOURE THE ONE I WATCHED TO PUT MY TOW MIRROS ON 😂😂😂 I commented and everything lol definitely subscribing you got good content my friend👌🏼👌🏼
Lmao, I kinda thought your name looked familiar, but with so many comments it’s hard to keep track. Thanks man, appreciate it! I have a decent amount of videos for repairs, upgrades, tips on the Dakota.
@@keymctvreactz23 They require modifications to the door to make them work, but I have an install video here with product link in the video description - ruclips.net/video/JItWCELlGUg/видео.html
Hey gents, quick question, at about 11:29 in the video, when you pushed the pump into the tank, the gasket went into hole by your left hand. Is the gasket supposed to set over the lip of the hole between the lip of the pump and lip of the hole? Or is it supposed to sink in between the body of the pump and wall of the tank? Was just curious if you have any vacuum/pressure issues due to that gasket sliding in with the pump as you put it in. Thanks in advance.
That’s DEFINITELY why has leaked out if I filled the tank over 3/4 after I did this 😂🤣 I didn’t notice that while doing this in person. The seal should be pinched between the lip of the tank and the pump collar, NOT pushed into the tank as you saw.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy Thanks dude, I thought so, my daughter has a 1997 Dodge Dakota extended cab, I'm sure it's similar in nature to yours. but wanted to verify.. Thanks for the clarification... and sorry you had that issue.. hahaha (sorry I'm not really laughing... ahahahah ops sorry).. ;)
@@parrishmooneyham6095 It’s funny thought because I never actually noticed that and I was wondering why it leaked lmao. Never pulled the tank back down to check, just didn’t fill it beyond 3/4 😂
@@TonyTheTruckGuy ya, i'd probably do the same, but being this is my daughters first vehicle. It was a farm truck and it LOOKS like it but hey, can't beat it for 300 bucks. ;).. BUT I'D have to pull it off again and fix cause I KNOW she wouldn't remember to only fill 3/4 tank.. hahahahaha But seriously the video is VERY informative and appreciate that.
Los estados que se enfrían en el invierno y usan sal para carreteras para derretir la nieve y el hielo son las principales áreas de vehículos oxidados. Los estados más cálidos y secos son mucho mejores para los vehículos
Why in the fuck is it that I type in my specific make, model, and fucking year of my Dodge Dakota and get every other fucking year. Rant over. Sorry guys
@@kevinlewis9151 Funny thing is the frame never failed, the front end just needed to be replaced for the 4th time and the cab mount collapsed due to rust. Still had some life in her but not safe and trustworthy as a daily driver.
It depends. If the truck is clean and not rusty, and you have a means to lift the bed off, then maybe. This truck is pretty rusty and didn’t want to risk snapping the bed bolts and also didn’t have a way to lift the bed off, so just pulled the straps.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy My 2003 dodge Dakota It’s a California truck. No rust. I am going to try to lift one side of the bed. And hold it up with Jack stands. I am doing this by myself. I think it would be easier then dropping the gas tank by myself.
I have been working on vehicles for well over 50 years. I always thought that the older vehicles were way easier to work on but that is probably only my imagination.
Anyway, I have an '02 Dakota quadcab which is a daily driver in our family. The fuel pump quit on it. I got new parts to repair it and I got to looking at how to do this. While there really is no mystery, it is a huge help to see someone who knows the little tricks for hoses, electrical connectors, fuel filler spout and tank straps actually show us how in a video. I know it is going to save me breaking something when I do this job on our truck!
Thanx so much for making the video, explaining as you went and posting it!
I appreciate it! Some people prefer to pull the bed, but I found this way to be better for me. Good luck!
@@TonyTheTruckGuy On a quad cab though, the fuel pump is under the cab, so, removing the bed will not get access to the fuel pump and you'll still be underneath the truck removing the tank anyway,
By the way, due to my working out of town a lot recently, I only got this fuel pump changed this past weekend, which, in Canada, where I live, was a long weekend (Queen Victoria's birthday). I never did find the correct hardware for the fuel tank straps due to most places being closed....
I used two pieces of 3/8" NC by 3 1/4" long "all thread" which I double nutted up in the crossmembers and aligned the hexes while tightening them. I was easily able to hold them from turning with an open end wrench. Anyway, it is all back together and running. It starts. now, on about the first crank of the engine.
Like I said a few weeks ago - thanx again for posting this video. I looked at a few others as well - yours was, I must say, the most to the point, coherent and easy to follow.
@@fastman6148 Haha yeah I had forgotten that the different cab configurations change where the pump is accessed. Thanks for the update and the positive feedback! Glad you got time to get it done!
Really appreciate the video, i always second guess myself on what to do with these kinds of things. I'm glad i live in such a dry climate so i don't have to deal with all that rust. this seems much easier than lifting the bed off lol.
Thanks for the video; very helpful for my fuel pump replacement.
That joke of a filter on bottom of pump, was laying at bottom of tank.
This is a perfect example of what every "How To" video should be. SINCERE THANKS. 🙂
This video is saving my life right now. Thanks a million!
Incredibly concise video ! Great camera work , and no UHHHS or UHHMMMS .
Haha thanks. I try to cut as many of those out as I can 🤣
But, I would say that this video is very educational if someone didn't know the process of this. Great 👍
great video ! um do you mind trying one more time on my Dakota ?
🤣
Thank you for showing in detail how to undo all the stupid clips!! that is a huge help for me!
Thanks, man! This is EXACTLY what i needed!
Glad I could help!
Excellent, detailed, video.. My truck has about 210K and even if the fuel pump still works great ,I plan to install a new one... Thank you for posting!
Thank you, glad I could help!
Mine just hit 150k runs like new
fuel tank strap bolts are 15mm fyi
Awesome job, one of the better how to videos I've seen in a while. Thanks!!!
coulda just waited an extra day or two, and those straps mighta rusted clean through and dropped the tank themselves.
this was a great vid on this job.
Yeah, they were getting a little anemic haha
@@TonyTheTruckGuy i thought mind was getting rusty, but it's looking pretty darn good now.
@@zzz7zzz9 😂
So I just got done replacing my fuel pump after watching your video and it was very helpful but I wanted to add a couple points that I came across when I did mine. first of all I have a 99 Dakota sport 5.2 L. when I tried to drop the tank, I couldn’t do that without disconnecting the fuel inlet and vacuum line because it hit the frame. The bolts for removing the straps holding the tank up were longer than I could find any socket to fit so it was all box and wrench on loosening, which took forever. That ring that holds the pump in was got awful tight and I thought I was going to break something with all the pounding. I did to get that loose. Once I got the ring off and started to remove the pump, I found that it was full of at least a quart of gas which I tried to pour back in the tank, gassing everywhere. But all in all it was something I wouldn’t want to do again, but I succeeded.
Thanx for posting your comment. My guess is that the fuel pump on the earlier (97-00) trucks may be different than the truck that was shown in this video. I also watched a video showing this job done on a late '90s truck and the fuel pump has a large tub surrounding the fuel pump, so I guess that is what you must have been dealing with...
Anyway, thanx again for you sharing your experience.
Very pleased for this video. well explanined. just what i needed. Thanks a lot.
Hi Tony, thank you for the great video! I have a 98 Dakota with the 3.9L V6 engine. I was looking at RUclips videos to see how hard it is to replace the fuel filter. My truck stumbles at idle when it's in gear, say at a stop light for instance. After watching your video and seeing that the filter on the bottom of the pump looks literally like a piece of fabric somehow attached to the bottom of the pump, I'm almost ready to just sell the thing. What a joke! I'm kicking myself still after 22 years for not buying another make!
22 years is a pretty long service life for a vehicle though, I'd say you got your money's worth. But yeah, the filters are just cheap. Your pump or regulator may be bad, but if the 98 is like my 02, then the pump, regulator, and filter are all 1 assembly.
I have a 98 as well and though I don't have to do the pump I am doing the filler neck and hoses, and im sooo happy to see that it has hoseclamps on the tank side, cuz I was told it was quick connects
@@volinski Yeah, those are a pain haha
22 years and you're complaining about a little filter...?
I don’t reuse those Fuel line clips. I have a ground switch on the dash to the fuel pump relay on a programmable timer switch in case of a loss of prime due to a leak, bad regulator or to put a yellow service line hose on the fuel rail schrader valve to pump some gas out.
Using 6 ton jack stands under the rear axle with the driveshaft disconnected after removing the riveted in frame rail on the quad cab / extra cab and replacing them with bolts , helps a bunch.
The factory straps I’ve modified by welding two sets for straps together to make it so the straps bolt in on both sides instead of the silly puzzle fitting ends that the factory uses on the drivers side.
Lastly, the pump assembly can be made to be serviced separately if you take a little time and patience to modify it. The pump and regulator are available separately.
You can plumb in a stand alone regulator on the fuel system as well and just ignore the regulator that failed and leave it.
Remember to check for leaks, including injectors when the symptoms of a bad regulator appear as they can be very similar.
I had the tiniest leak in my fuel line that you could imagine that haunted me for three tank removal processes in a row once.
Treat rust early and often. Rust never sleeps.
Mine is a 2002 RT with the 5.9 liter and 16 gallon tank. SoCal truck, 139k., I understand tilting the bed and accessing from the top is the way to go, and you should replace the vac lines and wires running through while you are at it. Basically do all that stuff proactively so you don't have to do it again for another 20 years. Any suggestions on what specific parts should be replaced while i have the bed lifted? Getting ready to do my parts search now.
Sadly, this truck has succumb to Midwest salty winter and went to the scrapyard a few years back, so no more 20 years for me lol. Awesome that yours is in that good of shape still. I’d say anything going to the fuel tank should be replaced. Straps, pump, filter, breather, the plastic EVAP lines and hoses. Only other thing that’s really under there besides the frame should be wiring harness and parking brake cable.
Can't be done on the quad cab
That’s a great video dude very professional thanks
Nice video! Thanks for the clear detailed instructions.
Glad I could help!
Your video was excellent, helped me out quite a bit. Note the electric coupler has two plastic nubs that hold it to the top of the frame making it very difficult to disconnect. I broke those off out of frustration and found that they are on the new part, so no problem. Also, despite a new fuel pump, still crank no start, so back to the drawing board with other options...
Can you hear the pump run when you key the ignition on?
@@TonyTheTruckGuy loud and clear, yes
@@swav5280 Any codes?
@@TonyTheTruckGuy no I don’t have a reader, will be doing that this week and let you know how it goes
First of all, I want to say for as clean as the outside of that truck is the underside is got awful bad rust wow
Yeah, she went to the scrapper a few years back. Good old road salt to thank for that.
Looks like a Midwest truck frame lol I get it tho, they use a ton of road salt in wisco
Wow You have a huge rust problem there!
Thanks for the throughly video anyway. Very useful with every detail
Yeah....it should be a felony to use salt on the roads in the winter. Destroys everyone’s vehicles very quickly. Every time I see a plow truck, all I can think about is Johnny Depp in Pirates when he yells “stop blowing holes in my ship”! 😂
@@TonyTheTruckGuy hahaha
Now would be a good time to get to that brake line. Seriously good video all I wanted to see was if I needed a special tool to remove the fuel line. Those connections can be a bear, spray with break clean and shop air is my only pointer.
Good video and informative. Man I really do fell for everyone that lives in back East or anywhere that they use salt on the roads.
Hell, I’m in the Midwest and they sure love salt here too lol
CALIFORNIA AND NEVADA NO CAR CANCER HERE
@@cadeltarat It’s just so damn hot 🥵
Great video why didn't dodge put a Schrader value on the gas line so that we could check the pump pressure ?
@@redtailhawk289 I asked myself the same question lol
what engineer thought it would be good to have high pressure going through a metal line and have the end made of plastic?
It’s not really “high” pressure, but yeah engineers just love to F with people lol
Thank you for the video is there a reason why the fuel pump won't turn on after you hook it up is there any other relays that actually keep the power away from the fuel pump cuz mine doesn't turn on
First make sure you have the fuel pump connector fully engaged, then make sure the truck battery is good. There is likely a fuel pump relay in the fuse box under the hood, or the one above the drivers foot area, but I’m not sure which specific location it is.
😮😮😮 usually when my fuel pumps go out I have a full tank of gas!!!😮😮😮😮😮😮😮😮
Pretty typical 😂
Thanks for the video!
@@JamesSilcox-n5e Very welcome, good luck!
perfect video man! thanks a bunch, gonna tackle this on my 02 4.7L QC 😩😅
It’s not too bad if the tank is low on fuel. I’d check your straps I’m advance and order them to change out if they’re rusty like mine. And make sure the pump seal doesn’t push into the tank when you install the pump. I didn’t catch mine pushed in slightly in 1 spot, you can actually see it happen around 11:29. So if I filled my tank over 3/4, it leaked lol.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy cool man I appreciate the reply! I'm in San Diego so there's no rust and like you I'm going to switch it out and probably sell it. Been a great truck never any major issues had it since 04 and she's at 192K. Thanks again and I'll definitely subscribe 👍👍
@@RJ6AV6 Thanks, and good luck!
Could I get mine out by taking bed off??crew cab 02 as well..tank full!!!
Thank you so much for this video!
We have the same vehicle, but unlike in your video our truck has a metal cross member from the left to right side of the frame below the gas tank. Did you have to take one out or bust the rivets? Because we can’t drop the front end like you did.
This will be my 16 year olds daily driver to and from school, and we’re trying to make it as cost effective as possible to fix it up. And after dropping cash on replacing the whole front suspension, and back brakes, we’re going to hopefully get this done ourselves. Any advice would be so appreciated!
@@sstevenson9293 No crossmember was on mine. You’ll probably have to grind and knock the rivets out and use bolts to reinstall it.
@@TonyTheTruckGuythanks a ton. I know it was some time ago, but about how long do you think it took you from start to finish. I do have some experience changing fuel pumps, just not on a truck that is such a pain in the butt. Trying to decide if it’s worth the $900 to have done, or if it’s something I can complete in a few hours and save $600 bucks.
@@sstevenson9293 Honestly I can’t remember with it being so long ago plus I was filming which adds time and then of course coming up for a fix on the strap bolts. If you didn’t have to mess with sucking the tank out and everything goes smoothly I’d say a couple hours.
Great video thanks for the help my friend🤟🏽
Vary informative and helpful, thanks
So fun fact for people that have a 98 and dont have torx bits, you dont have to disconnect the fuel hose, it can separate from the tank its self but if you have a full tank I wouldnt do it my way, mine is at about 3/4 so it wont be that bad
will it still prime if i didn't connect the fuel line to it? i'm trying to make sure it throws gas throw the port that leads to the engine
If you key the ignition on with the pump plugged in and the fuel line disconnected, it will shoot fuel out of the line up at the tail where you have it disconnected. I would just leave the line connected and cycle the key a few times to prime it.
today my truck didnt move the fuel gauge do you think is a bad fuel pump and i need to replace it?
If the truck runs then the pump is good but the sending unit might be bad which is part of the pump so you’d have to replace the whole pump. That’s assuming the wiring to the pump is good
@@TonyTheTruckGuy great thanks for you help and this video is goin to help me replace the pump
Same. It just cranks. Shows the no gas sign and says " no bus" and check engine light is on too
You probably have different issues. Yours sounds like possible engine ECM failure or wiring/power/ground issue to the ECM. The "bus" is the communication line that your electronics use to communicate. I'm guessing the truck just cranks because the ECM isn't providing spark to the plugs or signal to the injectors.
Glad I live in Victoria BC, no rust on mine
Glad I live in AZ. No rust at all on my 2002. Same with my '70 Challenger.
I’d love to live in a state with less humidity and no road salt, but I’m not built for that desert heat haha.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy I suspect that in the near future, it might be too hot and dry to sustain ANY human life here. Relocation is crossing my mind. Somewhere with water would be nice.
@@AZOffRoadster Is it really too much to ask for 60-80° year round with low humidity? 😂
Kihei, Maui Hawaii.
Great video! Thank you sir, I’m sure you made it look easier then it will be for me. haha but thank you.
Just make sure the seal between the pump and tank doesn’t fall in haha, I got mine all together and it leaks gas if you fill over 3/4 tank because the seal got messed up.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy haha noted! Thanks 👍
This is what I needed..my 2002 is trying to start, and we put some gas into to the carb..it tried to kick it but soon died. Im thinking this is the solution. nicely done on the vid..
Thanks and good luck!
2002 with a carburetor? wut
Great job!
Dont know for sure the exact location of the tank, re main truck body on this video but I have a Dakota extended cab. Just 4 bolts holding the pickup bed on so loosen the rear bolts where it bolts to the frame and take the two front bolts off, and presto, lift the bed up, prop it with a 2x4 and work from the top. The bed is much lighter than I thought and was very light. No disconnecting lights or tank etc: The pump is on the top of the tank. Whole process was about an hour. :-)
Mine was pretty rusty so I didn’t want to risk snapping off the bed bolts haha. And we didn’t have the man power or a lift to pick up the bed unfortunately.
cab gets in the way on a quad cab,extended cab is fine
Hi Tony. I have a 2004 Dodge Dakota 6 Cylinder truck with an error code of P0310, a misfire in the 10th cylinder. I know a list of quick cheap fixes to hopefully conquer my problem. Yay for me (said sarcastically with a giggle). I'm confused why this error code is about a tenth cylinder when I only have six. Please explain???
Yeah something is goofy there lol, I’ve never run into that. Almost sounds like the ECM has some internal issues going on. They’re pretty cheap to find used online though if you do end up needing one.
I have a quick question. I think I bought the same pump and I compared it the original and the original is a couple inched longer. Does this mean I won’t be able to get gas from the bottom of the tank? How did yours work out over a longer period of time?
I sold this truck not long after replacing the pump, so I’m not positive how well it has held up. The precision brand pump that I got had 3 little feet o. The bottom of it that sat against the floor of the tank. I guess I never actually measured it and compared it to the original pump. But if it’s off by a few inches as you say, then yea I’d be a little concerned on if the new pump will be able to pick up fuel that’s low in the tank.
Thank you for posting this video helped me a lot
a tip: watch movies on Flixzone. Been using it for watching loads of movies recently.
@Devon Abraham yup, been using Flixzone for since december myself :)
Fuel gauge moving up and down , replacing it fixes that issue?
I guess maybe if it’s excessive bouncing but a little may be normal
hey what o2 sensor codes did you have that gives you an idea your fuel pump is bad?
None lol. I’ve never seen any O2 sensor codes trigger from a bad fuel pump. The regulator is build into the pump and the regulator went bad because it was cranking for a long time before it would start, that’s why I changed mine.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy there is only one filter located in the pump though right? I think I just need new filter but if it's In the pump might as well just change it
@@beancrane9595 Yeah it’s literally just the little sock style filter the clips to the bottom of the pump
My fuel pump is fine but I may need to drop the tank due to EVAP codes. This video is super helpful. Is this a rust belt truck? The rust on you truck is insane.
Haha, unfortunately, yes. Minnesota.
Before dropping the tank check the power to your evap solenoid. If it doesn't modulate and is just steady power it might be a bad ecu. Replaced the whole evap system only to finally check the electrical side. Should have known after all the work to fix the damn no bus issue on that ecu. Stupid ass jtec garbage.
nice truck!! , are those 31 tires?
Yeah they were 31x10.5 on 15x8 black rock wheels
I have a Dakota sport 2002 .
The front driveshaft wasn't installed and I don't know how to do it right.
I tried but I started to hearing a noise then I put it out again.
There's no mark to guide my self.
The actual drive shaft going from the transfer case to the front differential? Is the shaft round on both ends?
If you have a short bed, the other option is slide the bed back about a foot. Easy access from there. Leave the tank where it is.
I probably my would have done that if I thought the bed bolts would come out without snapping haha
@@TonyTheTruckGuy Dodge trucks do have a notorious rust issue. No doubt about it.
@@erty7012 I’m sure 20 years in Minnesota winters hasn’t helped haha
I'll keep that in mind for mine whenever the time comes. 04 single cab 5 speed with truetrac, woot!
I'm about to change a fuel pump on a Dodge just like it the fuel pump in it works but it just cranks over a ton in the mornings like it has no prime and after it sits for about an hour it loses all fuel pressure it has to crank over a bunch to start again. Does that sound like a few pump issue?
Likely the fuel pressure regulator, which is built into the pumps on these trucks.
That's what I was figuring. thank you for your time and Quick response. great video by the way
@@ezboyrc553 You’re welcome, good luck!
What type of pump should I buy. I don't want to get new one and have same problem you had
OEM is probably your best bet
With the tank down, is it possible to get to the topside of tire winch to replace it? I have a 2000 dodge dakota with 91K miles and for a while I've heard the whining noise from the pump. And the cable wire in the the tire winch snapped some time back. To kill two birds with one stone I wanted to tilt the bed and remedy both. But if there's enough room and leverage to gain access to the topside of the winch with the tank down then it may be best to remove the fuel tank rather than lift the bed, maybe? I currently have my spare in the back of the cab
Honestly I don’t think the spare tire winch was directly above the fuel tank, but I can’t remember for sure and unfortunately, I no longer own the truck. I think the spare tire is further back than the tank, you’ll have to check. If it is, you may have to remove the bed or the crossmember that the spare tire winch is in.
Can I get the fuel pump out if I take the bed off of a 2002 extended cab Dakota?? Looks like it won't without dropping tank at all??
You probably could, so long as you have a means to remove the bed.
yes
Question. Can you tilt the bed like on Chevy Silverado‘s?
Tilt? I’d remove the bed completely or slide it back if anything but that seems like more work to me.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy from what I can see the pump is blocked by half the cab in a quad cab.
Any tips on getting straps back in place? I'm about ready to Jerry rig some brackets lol
@@joshwalters3148 Another reason I just pulled the tank haha. It’s been so long since I did this job, but I think I had the stink fairly empty and had another buddy help start the straps as I lifted the tank or used a jack to hold it up.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy ended up ordering new straps.....tried shaping the old ones, and one broke, they come in pairs so both it is lol.....truck runs great, transmission needs a rebuild though, prolly gonna sell it cheap lol
@@joshwalters3148 There ya go haha
How do I know which fuel pump I need to get?
I usually go on the O’reilly website and look up by year/make/model
Is it possible to fix the plastic where the filler neck connects to on the tank? its right above the pump. I have a bunch of cracks on mine where i believe fumes are coming from. I used JB Weld once but it seems to still be coming out. Been thinking of replacing the whole tank xD
You mean the white plastic part @ 7:56 where the fill neck hose connects to the tank?
is this a 24 gallon tank?
I believe it was a 23 or 24 yeah
What other vehicles have the same fuel pump ? !!!!
@@JECHOE Not sure. Could Google the part number or on Amazon and see what other vehicles it’s listed for.
Does anyone know if the filter is built into the pump
Yes the only filter it has is the little sock that goes on the bottom of the pump.
Also need too know what fuel pump it is
@@JECHOE Links in video description.
Smart using gloves, no fingerprints for future endeavours. How does it sound with the cherry bomb?
Where is the fuel filter located???
It may vary by year, but this one didn’t have a legit fuel filter, just the small “sock” or “screen” style filter that clips onto the bottom of the pump in the tank.
How did you bring the 2 belts up to hold the tank in place again? It is extremely difficult to align the holes and get the stud back in
Might require a second body to help lift up on the tank. I just went Hulk mode on it since the tank was pretty empty and pushed up real hard on the tank then grab the tank straps and shove them up into the hole. You might have to “massage” the straps by working out any slack in them from the frame side and then run your hands toward the end with the studs. You can tell if the tank and straps are positioned correctly if the curvature of the strap lines up with the tank. Otherwise you could try supporting the tank with a jack and then with 2 free hands, you should be able to get the straps started.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy thanks! Got it done. It took some serious strength to push that belt all the way up
Could you put on the video the gas tank straps info and what size your gas tank is. I have 03 and it has a 24 gallon tank trying to find the rite straps for it thanks and great video
I believe mine was also 24 gallon. I would just try RockAuto.com and select your year, make, model, and trim. I think I saw some on there at one point.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy thanks Tony thats where I was looking and what do you mean by trim ?
@@colingraham1464 Sport, SLT, etc. Sometimes they ask what trim and cab configuration you have
@@TonyTheTruckGuy thanks again Tony
@@colingraham1464 No problem!
Safety first! Disconnect the negative clamp on the battery!
Yeah I suppose if you plan on intentionally creating a short circuit over an open tank lol
I have an 04 qc with the 24 gallon tank. It’s saying these pumps are only for up to 03. Can’t seem to find any for an 04 24 gallon tank
I swear my 02 was also 24 gallons so I’m not sure what they would have changed to be honest
@@TonyTheTruckGuy I figured it out, they call it “crew cab” not quad cab
Would taking off the bed be better ?
Depends how easy your bed mounting bolts come out and if you have a way to slide the bed back or lift it off without damaging it. If the straps are rusty and need replacement anyways then I’d drop the tank.
thank you
thanks to you i swapped out my old fuel pump in record time ! i wanna do heater core next any suggestions besides cap it and make some kinda custom electric?
there are two lines on tank and an arrow on pump.. arrow has to be lined up to be between those line for fuel gauge to read right.. but you can take the huge housing off and replace the filter and pump,re assemble housing then reinstall and save over $100.. but hey maybe you're in a hurry and have more money than time.. so do it his way
Yeah I usually just do the entire assembly so I don’t have to worry about possible faulty wiring going to the pump from the new pump to the hat of the assembly
Ever remove the bed? Bolt
Count?
I have not. 4 main bolts for sure coming from the top inside the bed. Don’t think you have to remove any back by the bumper but there may be some electrical connectors or hoses attached to the bed.
If you back to your video you will see you pinched the gasket it didn't make a complete seal. Fyi also looks like you need an input shaft seal on the yolk to rear end.
Lmao yeah, the tank would leak if I filled it above 3/4, then I rewatched the video and saw the gasket got pinched 🤦♂️ And the yoke seal did eventually get done, but now the truck has gone to the scrapyard due to cancer.
I confusedon which pump I use
I recommend factory pump if you can afford it and plan to keep the vehicle, otherwise just get whatever your got parts store has on hand.
Thanks 👍👍👍
Can’t get mine to even start now after a brand new pump and new starter
Does it crank and just not start?
Tony The Truck Guy so honestly I’m new to this shit, and it kinda starts then looses it. Took the twist cap off the top when I dropped it a second time cause I noticed my buddy put it on cock eye. I could here it priming, battery was fine on voltage, put the new starter in after old one crapped out when we dropped the tank the first time. Im gonna re connect it today or tomorrow with some help and make sure everything is well connected. I just can’t figure out why the hell it won’t start and stay up. I can see voltage drop
When trying to turn it over
Just a thought. Wouldn’t it be easier to take the bed off? To change the fuel pump.
Not how the pump sits on this cab and bed style. Pump doesn't sit far enough back to just cut hole in bed/take bed off. Sits right under back seats so you have to drop tank
@@lyricsforlife5090 It does not sit under the backseat.
@@danbranch5798 yes it does, I should know. I just replaced mine on the 2001 quad cab. The fuel lines that go into the tank sit in the gap between the bed box and the cab. The actual fuel pump however, sits towards the front if the vehicle about 1 foot from the fuel IN lines, under the back seats.
@@lyricsforlife5090 Argree to disagree. A real plumber uses copper. Any two bit no papers guy can do plastic pipe. It takes skill to run copper. And its better quality.
@@danbranch5798 huh? Copper? What?
Mine has a plate attached to the frame on the front side of the tank and seems like it’s not supposed to come off
Is it maybe just a skid plate?
@@TonyTheTruckGuy possibly. I’ll send you pictures tomorrow. Did yours have one the first time? You changed yours and you didn’t put it back on or?
@@user-tm9xx5xs1o Mine never had any plate, just the real thin tin piece that’s basically a heat shield to protect the tank from the exhaust which you can see in a few clips here. But your truck may have come with some skid plate package
I can’t add a photo so I’m just gonna try to go with it. It’s hanging down far enough now. Thank you so much!
@@user-tm9xx5xs1o Good luck!
Mechanic just quoted me $700 for this job fuel pump and two straps , I want to do the job the only problem is removing the straps the bolts are hard-to-get get at severely rusted on not sure wiser just to have the mechanic deal with it and have the parts warranty in case the fuel pump fails and have to change again
Yeah, it's a toss up. You could get a new pump with new straps for probably $300 if you to the work yourself. So I guess it depends how big of a deal $400 is to you haha
I have the same color set up Dakota with the same tow mirrors😂😂 I just have a few more stuff on it but nice video man👌🏼👌🏼👌🏼👌🏼
Haha, nice style 😋 Thanks man!
Tony The Truck Guy I JUST REALIZED YOURE THE ONE I WATCHED TO PUT MY TOW MIRROS ON 😂😂😂 I commented and everything lol definitely subscribing you got good content my friend👌🏼👌🏼
Lmao, I kinda thought your name looked familiar, but with so many comments it’s hard to keep track. Thanks man, appreciate it! I have a decent amount of videos for repairs, upgrades, tips on the Dakota.
Tony The Truck Guy definitely be checking those thanks brother stay safe.!
@@rcmc1256 where'd you guys get those mirrors?
Where did you get your rear view mirrors on the truck from?????
You mean the tow mirrors?
@@TonyTheTruckGuy yes 🙌
@@keymctvreactz23 They require modifications to the door to make them work, but I have an install video here with product link in the video description - ruclips.net/video/JItWCELlGUg/видео.html
@@TonyTheTruckGuy thanks
Hey gents, quick question, at about 11:29 in the video, when you pushed the pump into the tank, the gasket went into hole by your left hand. Is the gasket supposed to set over the lip of the hole between the lip of the pump and lip of the hole? Or is it supposed to sink in between the body of the pump and wall of the tank? Was just curious if you have any vacuum/pressure issues due to that gasket sliding in with the pump as you put it in. Thanks in advance.
That’s DEFINITELY why has leaked out if I filled the tank over 3/4 after I did this 😂🤣 I didn’t notice that while doing this in person. The seal should be pinched between the lip of the tank and the pump collar, NOT pushed into the tank as you saw.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy Thanks dude, I thought so, my daughter has a 1997 Dodge Dakota extended cab, I'm sure it's similar in nature to yours. but wanted to verify.. Thanks for the clarification... and sorry you had that issue.. hahaha (sorry I'm not really laughing... ahahahah ops sorry).. ;)
@@parrishmooneyham6095 It’s funny thought because I never actually noticed that and I was wondering why it leaked lmao. Never pulled the tank back down to check, just didn’t fill it beyond 3/4 😂
@@TonyTheTruckGuy ya, i'd probably do the same, but being this is my daughters first vehicle. It was a farm truck and it LOOKS like it but hey, can't beat it for 300 bucks. ;).. BUT I'D have to pull it off again and fix cause I KNOW she wouldn't remember to only fill 3/4 tank.. hahahahaha But seriously the video is VERY informative and appreciate that.
@@parrishmooneyham6095 Best of luck!
what he did to test the pump don't do that it hurts the pump as it running dry.
Cycling the key? What else are you going to do?
Open a Dodge Dakota 1987 97
The new pump should outlast the rust...
You would have thought, but it didn’t 😂
@@TonyTheTruckGuy Oh no! I'm in the same boat with my mom's '04 Dakota and I'm leaning toward the Bosch 67744
@@smid2550 Yeah, Bosch is probably a good choice.
Aí nos estados unidos as dakotas são todas enferrujadas!
Los estados que se enfrían en el invierno y usan sal para carreteras para derretir la nieve y el hielo son las principales áreas de vehículos oxidados. Los estados más cálidos y secos son mucho mejores para los vehículos
I got 2005
Different body style, so the fastener sizes and pump will likely be different, but I'm betting steps are similar.
Why in the fuck is it that I type in my specific make, model, and fucking year of my Dodge Dakota and get every other fucking year. Rant over. Sorry guys
Because Google searches for the closest match haha. What year do you have?
P😅
Your frame is junk my friend
Well, it’s been in the junkyard for a year now 🤷♂️
@@TonyTheTruckGuy that explains a little bit lol you can come change mine for your next video lol
@@kevinlewis9151 Funny thing is the frame never failed, the front end just needed to be replaced for the 4th time and the cab mount collapsed due to rust. Still had some life in her but not safe and trustworthy as a daily driver.
Just a thought. Wouldn’t it be easier to take the bed off? To change the fuel pump
It depends. If the truck is clean and not rusty, and you have a means to lift the bed off, then maybe. This truck is pretty rusty and didn’t want to risk snapping the bed bolts and also didn’t have a way to lift the bed off, so just pulled the straps.
@@TonyTheTruckGuy My 2003 dodge Dakota It’s a California truck. No rust. I am going to try to lift one side of the bed. And hold it up with Jack stands. I am doing this by myself. I think it would be easier then dropping the gas tank by myself.
@@danbranch5798 It’s not too bad if the tank is close to empty, but if it’s full and truck is rust free then yeah you might be better off that way.