Fake LM2596HV Voltage Regulator Buck Converter Modules bought on eBay
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- Опубликовано: 21 окт 2024
- There's a really useful variant of the LM2596 voltage regulator called the LM2596HV which can handle 60 volts on its input. But be careful - some that I bought recently turned out to be fake. At about 50v, the regulator became unstable and died which could very easily destroy whatever you have connected to the output.
Thanks for posting this. There seem to be a lot of fake parts from Chinese vendors on eBay. I have some LiFePO4 18650 batteries labeled 3600 mAh and they are actually about 1100. Same problem with 3000 mAh AA NiMH that test at about 800. I got a partial refund, so the final cost was about right for what I got. The quality was decent, but they try to outspec each other and most customers can't fully check them.
Someone else bought some high current Schottky rectifiers and they got very hot and showed much higher forward voltage than the spec at the rated current. Again, a quick check with a multimeter shows the usual 300 mV drop but they probably have a relatively tiny cheap diode in a fake case.
The LM2596 are about $2 from Mouser, but they don't seem to have the HV version. In fact, I can't find it from Digikey or Newark either. There are 60V versions of the LM2574, LM2575, LM2576, and LM2577. Where did you get your data sheet?
If your autofocus isn't working reliably at the distance you're shooting, use your manual focus! It will be less frustrating.
Velleman supply the ones with the 35v input capacitor. Bought mine from ESR Components. Another point has arisen with the modules mentioned concerning the maximum allowable power dissapation of the ic power chip itself. Velleman does state this on its website. It is suprisingly low at 10W as is without additional heatsinking. ESR also supply the Cebek modules that use the same ic. These come on a large pcb board with a proper large vertical mounted heatsink that almost spans the width of the pcb.
The Electrolytic Caps are to be used at no more than %70 of their rated voltage
so the input cap is only good for around 42V not the marked 63V! so if you need to use the device to max 60V you really need the 100V rating on input Cap.
Mehdi Daryadel Correct. In fact if you use these in as an OEM consumer product over a 100C temperature range, you should derate the cap by 50%.
Mehdi Daryadel Is this true for super caps?!?! I have 6 in series (6 x 3000f 2.7v) and am feeding them 14.5v (max rated is 16.2v), is this safe? I was going to bump it up to 15v, now you have me worried! I have 2amp balancing boards on them.
Super caps are totally different type of caps and you need to look at the datasheet for Max Voltages.
Mehdi Daryadel Thanks for the insane quick reply :) I found the data sheet, says "rated voltage 2.7v, absolute maximum 2.85v" so I feel better now :) That's 16.2v rated for 6 x series bank with 17.1v maximum. In searching for the datasheet I also found a super freaky cap, 2.5V / 5400F. That'd give me 15v rated at a mind blowing 900f (instead of the 500f I get out of my banks now). Can't wait to find out the price!
Mehdi Daryadel That is not an actual rule, not for aluminum electrolytics. The 63v working voltage cap's datasheet is a max surge of 1.15x rated voltage. The "useful lifespan" at 40C is "150,000 h to 400,000 h" at 1.8v the rated current. Cap life IS increased by using less voltage, but the cap's rating is still for 63v.
Tantalum is another matter. Tantalum caps generally have very poor lifespans if kept at their rated voltage. At least they have in the past. But there are different ratings standards so there's kind of a problem there.
To read IC markings an LED flashlight shined at a low angle to the part can help. Something about LED light makes some of the faint IC markings show up.
I just received and tested two of these lm2596hv buck converters I bought on ebay to step 48V down to 5V. Luckily I was suspicious of the price difference, and ordered the more expensive ones. I assumed it to be higher quality because they put 63v caps on the input and output, although it turns out this is at the expense of much needed output capacitance so the ripple is even worse than expected. At least they are the proper hv chips.
One thing I will say is that they certainly aren't good for 3A, as the first one I took to 3A let the smoke out in a hurry. They seem to be happy enough delivering 1.5A, but I'd say that's about it. After several hours of runtime the caps were at 70C, the chip at 90C, and the inductor at 95C.
Since I need to replace the output capacitors for better filtering anyway, I was going to order the cheap ones. The missing diode made me question things though, and a Google search led me here. I'm glad it did!
You saved me $15 and the smell of letting the smoke out! Thanks! Sub earned.
What were the specs in the listing? Just because one part on a board has a high voltage spec doesn't mean that the board is. To the contrary, that's a guaranty that the sum of the parts can't work at that voltage. I'm an engineer and I'd NEVER use a part, a machine or any device created by people with one of its components as maximum rated capacity unless I were TRYING to make it fail.
Hi, very useful demos! Really enjoy them. Could you tell me what kind of light bulb are you using on the output and possibly an ebay link to buy one? Is it LED? Thanks.
There are some chips which are the LM2576, places like mouser (a proper distributor - not ebay) sell them. Up to 60V input for the HV version. When you get up to this high of a voltage, it is easier to just use a transformer based converter.
These are on Amazon now £8 for 6 and out of the six 3 burned out instantly with only a 12v input.
Hello Julian wear did you get the display from.
How long can a voltage regulator like this last if used properly (within its safe limits)? What would be the first component to fail in the long run?
What is the type/name/model of that light your using? I'd like to have some of those for testing like that!
I've gotten so many bad and crappy voltage regulators from the china vendors that I'll probably not get anymore at all. When the hit rate is less than 50% it makes any cost savings pretty worthless.
+bp968 I think it's a 10W automotive (turnsignal? or stop/brake maybe) light.
I recently bought 8 DC DC converters with the LM2596HV, had the same problem as you mentioned. So after 9 years this issue is still not solved in China. I reordered DC DC converters that, on papers, have to withstand a 120VDC input. Thanks for your information but in my case I noticed it too late.
Hi thanks for the video, i was needing to have an adjustable dc power supply for my benchtop and noticed yours, could you explain for me how you connected the led display to the 600 boost, I have purchased the 600 boost and a couple led displays from aliexpress but need a little information on getting them to work together. thanks
Did you ever find that little LED, its great. Would love one.
eBay - search "LED voltmeter". The 2-wire ones measure their own supply voltage. The 3-wire type can measure a different voltage (with a common ground), often a much higher voltage. See my review on a 2-wire voltmeter which runs off 5v to 120v DC @-nYI
What kind of boost converter are you using? Thanks for the video, very useful!
Just as a matter of interest - how long did it take for delivery? I've also purchased parts from G&C on several occasions and they seem to take at least a month. (My record so far for Chinese eBay sellers is 8 days - so it can be done).
Deliveries do seem to be quicker now from some sellers. G&C are one of the slowest. Also, I didn't mention it in the video, but I'm pretty sure some fake PICs (PIC12F683) also came from G&C. I've only ever had 1 eBay order not turn up at all - some 3mm LEDs, that was G&C too. Good&Cheap are now on my seller blacklist.
Hi Julien, where can I purchase a trim pot adjustment tool like yours ? I like that it does not fall off the screw !
Mine is circa 1985 - a gift from the company I worked for as a field service engineer. Try a search on eBay for "Bourns H90" (or H91).
Julian Ilett Found it, Thanks.
For what its worth, I bought a none HV version that is an exact match for the blue 'fake' one you bought. It interestingly has a 50V input voltage capacitor on it, which matches your fake one before it was changed.
I want to provide a metal detector circuit with 12V from 4 Li-Ion batteries in series
What sort of component should I get? Thanks
You should get the datasheet for the metal detector to determine what the max safe voltage is. You might not need any buck voltage regulation, just run at full voltage, but will still want a low voltage cutoff protection circuit.
Might I suggest that you just use a 12V cordless drill battery instead, one with a protection circuit already built in, and then you also can use the charger custom designed for it.
Anyway a typical metal detector is a portable device meant to be ran off batteries so they should accommodate a certain range of variable voltage, not need voltage regulated to exactly 12.0V, but you could open and inspect the capacitors, ICs, etc to see if any have a 16V limit. It might be easier and cheaper to just toss two high current silicone diodes in series to drop ~ 1.4V, and a switch to bypass them once the battery pack drains some, to get longer life out of the battery.
The 63v capacitor on the real board is much bigger than the 63v capacitor on the fake board, showing that the cap may have been remarked
I know this is old. But thanks Julian. I am now more educated the I was 10 minutes ago.
Thank you.
desolder the potentiometer
and check if the potentiometers are also also faulty (might be as well)
Ive had a buck/boost converter do something similar. except the potentiometer was the problem.
Hello Julian, Do you think its possible to use the LM256HV in parallel on the adjustable outputs around 13.8v with a diodes at the end to charge 12v batteries? I have an idea to use 2 x 120w (home made) 20v solar panels in series to make between 30v and 42 volts @ max 6 amps in depending on sun light. I am aiming for a set up that when the sun is out I will always give out at least 500ma out @ 13.8v cloud or no clouds. I think its not unreasonable to ask for a min of 2.9% output of 240w. I am trying to make a cheap solar charger similar to MPPT with voltage dropping to correct battery voltage without all the hard work. At a later date I am going to attempt an arduino controller similar to yours but hopefully with a but more charging amps to make it worth while :) Hope you can help me with this little project of mine. Cheers for the vids dude
Something similar to this www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-DC-Step-down-Converter-3-5-30V-to-0-8-29V-10A-buck-Voltage-Power-Regulators-/321512302840?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item4adba068f8 would be great if only it could take a higher voltage :)
Julian Ilett or perhaps something like www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-DC12-48V-to-1-8-25V-Step-Down-Power-Supply-Module-Buck-Converter-Board-/121343225299?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item1c409eadd3 Hope it makes sense. Essentially taking up to 42v solar say at 6a and boosting to 13.8 @ max amps possible 100% efficiency would be 18 amps but I know thats never going to happen EVER due to heat/conversion losses :)
Very Interesting Video Julian. Keep up the great work. Nick.
Why don't they use crosshead screws on those piddly pots. ???
I had this problem with the 400W model. Turns out reflowing the solder usually helps (Since one phase was getting converted, it gave out weird outputs due to one terminal of the power transistor not being tinned.)
What power supply are you using? I would like one that goes that high.
thanks Julian for the heads up.
Hello! What the model is first large plate buck (step down) converter?
Great find with the clones Julian, thanks for sharing.
I notice you buy many of your products from Ebay, which sellers sell the real thing? I want to buy some Cree or Epistar LEDS but I am worried that some of them are fakes.
Julian Ilett Its strange that I am unable to find the datasheet on the LM2596HV. Anyway, did you do a long test of the working unit; i.e., how log did you keep the 60+ volts on the unit what is supposedly real? Is it safe to have 60 volts on the input indefinitely without degrading the board?
Donovan Lym I've never found a data sheet either. I wonder what the failure mode is too. Open circuit - your load is safe, or 60 volts fed directly into your expensive 5v circuit? Scary stuff.
Here's the thing, Julian: I'm trying to build a device in a solar energy environment powered by the system battery. So the unit is a "universal" unit capable of working on 24/36/48 volt system; I have a different version for the 12 volt system as it relates to the power supply and that problem has been solved. The universal unit therefore has to be able to have an input voltage from, say, 20-60 volts, with an output of 12 volt @ 150mA. I saw your video and now your comment, yes, scary stuff. The HV chip is too mysterious. I was hoping I would be able to just purchase a module (at a reasonable price) to take care of this. A TL783 linear regulator is too inefficient. Any suggestions?
I bought 3 of these units (red ones) and tested them at 61 volts @0.67 amps. With output of 12 volts. Tested 2 for 12 hrs. The last one was on for 24 hours. Regulation is approximately +- 4% with input voltage varying from 20 to 61 volts. Seemingly, they are the real deal.
But this converter chip says "LM2596HV", it is fake, and TI never made any such thing as an LM2596HV. They DID make an LM2576HV, and you can simply swap it it with a real 60v input cap and reuse the board!
I bought 3 of the red modules and had them on a supply of 60 volts, output 12 volts @ 250 mA on and off totaling 20+ hours each without any adverse effects. On and off because I wouldn't leave it on while I'm sleeping, probably 5 hours break. Yes temperature rise up to 130 degrees Fahrenheit., including caps. @ 150mA it runs probably up to 110 degrees Fahrenheit. I bought an additional one and tested also at 60volts, 12 volts output @ 150 mA. Can I assume it is safe? I could take the precaution of testing each new one at 60 volts @ 150 mA for 2 min periods for products I'm making. Feedback?
How does this video have 23 dislikes?
Thanks for the video, Julian.
I just bought 2 LM2596S modules from a store in Bangalore, India, for Rs 100 each (that's about $1.5, ridiculously cheap). Let me run some tests.
why it has 23 dislikes is dishonest seller dont like this
Not just that... there are a couple of morons here who claim that the parts aren't fake because Julian pushed them above their 45V rating even though he CLEARLY states they were sold and marked as HV (60V) regulators. You can't fix stupid.
Does this buck converter(LM2596s)
work on a motorcycle with a12v 9amp ? I want to reduce it to 4.5v dc for a led tail lamp.Pls help. 🙂
+arun reetha These converters are usually only good for 1 amp, for reliability. Claims of 3 amps with heatsinking are made. No way for 9 amps.
+arun reetha if its just to power LED's yes that should be fine, just install it without the LED's set the forward voltage to what the LED's need via the little pot and connect the leds I'm assuming they don't draw more than 1 amp as the other poster pointed out more than that and the magic blue smoke might escape. but tail lights etc all good!
+arun reetha hi Arun, what's going on with your project, does it work?, let me tell you one thing, i put one boost not buck converter, exactly for my led tail lamp (with 120 leds 2835), i boosted voltage to 17V, and works OK but only for 20 min, after that i noticed an unexpected behavoir of my led tail lamp, until now i ain't figure out what's going on, but i will (hopefully), regards
thanks a lot my dear friends for the reply.thanks for sharing your knowledge, now i made a tale light with led strip without any buck converter. now its working fine ..
Will you get electrocuted if you use a metal screwdriver to adjust the voltage instead of that plastic pen thing you were using?
Unlikely. The adjustment screw is probably insulated. The potentiometer is almost certainly not connected to the high voltage part of the circuit. Nevertheless, the trimmer tool is covered in plastic to protect you from shocks.
Got it on AliExpress, 10 pieces for $10. It is LM2596S. Original marking is made with very bright white ink. The caps are 100u/50v and 220u/35v. You definitely got remarked ones.
And now I've just bought another fake one from Alice - one of my favourite eBay sellers. The genuine ones are hard to find.
Julian Ilett hi, do you know of any listings for the real thing? I've just run 48v out to the garage for some LED floodlights and I need 12v for the control circuitry. Thanks. :)
Should be using something higher rated than a 63v input cap for constant voltage supply, heat will shorten lifespan of a cap. Ive used a similar if not identical ebay pcb to drive 10w of LEDs and the inductor got very hot and failed in a few weeks, heatsinking looks inadequate too. Nice video, just subscribed to your channel.
@7:10 Another one bites the dust!😆👍🏻I new he would be dirty on me for not placing an bigger order.😂😆
So when you find these fake items, or mislabeled items, do you file a complaint with the seller or with E-Bay? It seems to me that is misrepresentation and against E-Bay rules. Or am I just naive. Buyer beware type thing.
I'm pretty sure the sellers most often refund you after hassling you for graphic evidence because a negative feedback or eBay complaint hurts them
What hapened if i connect to input 50.v 1.a from solar panel, and i set in output 14.v for charging car batery block? This stil works? How much A power i get?
I don't think this board can manage 50watts without heatsinks, there are bigger modules with higher wattage that include heatsinks for a little more money.
GC Supermarket 😂👍🏻I remember that dude Julian. I bought 5 ICs off him which cost me $2 AUD. I promised to put a bigger order in if the package arrived. It arrived. I could not believe it. You are lucky if you can buy a bag of lollies for that price. Maybe he was dirty on me for not placing a bigger order. 😂😆👍🏻
What about the circuit design ? Maybe component on circuit are limiting what you can throw in the device?
Yoram Stein
No.. it is the chip/capacitor.
Look: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311391713694?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
It is the standard one, but just the exact one that is failing.. and has a 50v capacitor.. so yes they ARE FAKE.
I just had my "LM2596HV" fail in a 48vin/24vout after about 20 hrs- no output anymore.
I put in another from the same order, adjusted it to 24v, hooked it up to a load- no output, took off load, still no output. Input cap was getting hot on 48V! But, a cap breaking down won't likely cause the part to fail. Put it on a 30V bench supply, the cap wasn't getting hot, but the module put out zero volts and the trim pot did nothing.
Something's very wrong here. TI lists NO SUCH PART as a LM2596HV at all! People say the whole product number is a counterfeit Chinese mfg, and nowhere near the rated voltage, which I concur.
TI DOES make a LM2576HV, 60v. Ebay lists LM2576HV bucks but look at the pics- most of the pics for those listings STILL say "LM2596HV" until you get to the ~$5 products.
Nice video, thanks for sharing it with us, well done :)
what's that digital voltemeter you're using at the output of the 12V regulator? and are they powered by the source they're measuring?
thanks
Loads of them on eBay - search "LED voltmeter". The 2-wire ones measure their own supply voltage. The 3-wire type can measure a different voltage (with a common ground), often a much higher voltage. See my review on a 2-wire voltmeter which runs off 5v to 120v DC ruclips.net/video/PeuJQki-nYI/видео.html
Julian Ilett
thanks so much
What was the LM2956HV input rating on the data sheet, I thought I saw 40v, or 45v, and the supply voltage was taken up to 55v if not more, ..did I see that wrong
Yes, you both saw it wrong... Julian was looking at the data sheet for the STANDARD regulator chip which listed that voltage, NOT the one for the HV part, which is supposed to handle 60V. He pulled out the standard chip data sheet because he suspected the chips had false markings and he wanted to know what voltage the standard regulators would fail at to see if his "HV" chips were actually standard ones when he cranked up the input voltage.
Some good points there Julian.
I tend to steer clear of ebay and plump for maybe extra cost of Amazon. Not found a problem there yet and I have bought a lot in the past year
I think just bought some fake d-sun ones not arived yet but only need them to work on 7-9v input and give me 5.5v out should that be a safe input for this to work will get the proper one you shown too
Mine just had regular LM2596 chips on them. They work fine up to 40V input.
in the future, you can see the markings much better if you rub a little white paste of some kind into the numbers (I use some thermal grease) I imagine this might also help to identify forgeries since the HVS is likely going to be slightly different from the rest of the part number.
If this is hv buck, how can the input cap be 63v with output cap rated at 35v and not die when adjusted to max output voltage?
I have one question . I have 12 volt power supply , i want to power 12 volt amp an 5 volt bluetooth adapter with step down dc to 5v , but the problem is when i conect the 3.5 mm jack there is a ground loop ... how to fix it?
"when i conect the 3.5 mm jack there is a ground loop ... how to fix it?"
Easiest method is a ground-loop audio transformer made for just this purpose. Something like these...
www.google.ca/search?q=ground+loop+isolator&client=opera&hs=yD9&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjr44biut7TAhVG64MKHfnrB9YQsAQIfA&biw=1043&bih=612
Bluetooth audio is not audiophile quality so even a cheap one should do the trick, but if you are concerned about frequency response you might want to go for a pricier one...
www.avshop.ca/sound-amp-pa-audio/signal-processors/feedback-controllers/art-dti-dual-transformer-isolator?gclid=Cj0KEQjwi7vIBRDpo9W8y7Ct6ZcBEiQA1CwV2CNPpKrluEjqLphls33397kqnnMIAmXgS9Y9kc-qtFkaAhbg8P8HAQ
Alternately you could forget the buck convertor and go with a transformer isolated step down regulator so the audio and power circuits don't use a common ground.
Finally, you might be able to eliminate the hum if you break the ground connection at ONE END of the audio cables, relying on the grounding from the other end to shield the center conductor. YMMV
I have seen many fake capacitors like this. On the large fakes, you could actually cut the can off...and there lies the cap actually used! And unmarked. Maybe they are doing this with the smaller ones now.
One of the problems with Ebay purchases is the complete lack of feedback on the products being sold regularly. Something I much prefer with Amazon, although Ebay is generally cheaper, and seems to have more choice.
There are fake parts AND then there are a lot of not fake, but factory rejected parts. I got LM simple switcher chips that were supposedly genuine, but 3/5 were faulty. I also know an incident where subcontractor had bought TI opamps that were behaving badly. I contacted TI and they verified that part was genuine, but source was not reliable so it's likely they were faulty genuine chips.
It's also very hard to tell if the parts are genuine or not. When buying obsolete components, there are lot of fakes around and even if you X-RAY chips, it might be hard to tell, because sometimes you can see genuine parts that have different X-RAY images, so it is difficult to know what variation from what you expect is real and what is fake. Of course obvious fakes are easy to tell, but very well made fakes are very hard to expose.
Fakes suck, because It's hard to get genuine parts, since many authorized vendors require business account and shipping is 20€ every time. It's very tempting to buy from ebay with free shipping and you get just the small amount of parts you need. Flip side of the coin is that you must know how to detect fakes and how to test them before you put them to your project.
Check out your inductor value while you are there. No-smoke unit says '330', smokey unit says '470'. (uH?) Swap the 330 from the no-smoke onto the smoker, see if that is the problem.
its actually 47uH, last digit is the 0 multiplier
Yes, I appreciate that, my point was the value of 33uH instead of 47uH could be the cause of the smokiness, ie; the circuit can't handle the higher inductance and is operating outside it's intended design range.
I agree with you, these modules have fixed inductor values, but in fact, you need to select values according to your MAX input voltages (see the datasheet).
why did i can not adjustable current on the Module Boost DC?
how you connect the voltmeter on the 600W UC3843? how about ammeter, how to connect on thar device?
How do you go about finding the datasheets for these products, is there a source site that stores datasheets?
I find a search on Google is usually best. Although, typically, a number of data sheet dedicated sites come up with most components, they mostly seem to use HTML copies of the original PDF documents, so I tend to look for the actual manufacturers web sites in the results as their data sheets are mostly PDF format and are kept up to date. If the component has a manufacturers logo on it you can include their name in the search to increase accuracy. Hope this helps.
I used to manage a tv repair shop, we started buying those cheap STK's, because the OEM parts were expensive. well the cheap ones don't last very long.
Thanks for the warning. I understand the semiconductor industry is full of falsely
labeled components.
The spec was 45v and it smoked at 55v...
Hello can you recommend me what buck-boost conv. should I use if I have 12.6-11.1V battery and i need Autocontrolled output 12V constantly ...link? Thanks
Definitely the LTC3780 module
+Julian Ilett Any cheaper lighter solution for FPV RC model? I need that for fpv transmitter -otherwise low voltage no image
How about this SEPIC converter - eBay 401088945994
as far as i can tell all of these are fake working or not because national semi/ti never made a lm2596hv (or have scrubbed it entirely from the internet which seems unlikely), they make 2591,2,3,4 hv but not 2596hv
i'd love to have a datasheet for the actual LM2596HVS they're using here, i'm trying to dig up an old digikey catalog to see if it's listed
likely these are remarked hsemi or some of the other random chinese/hk/taiwan clones
Also where did you get your green mat from? :)
Daniel Wilson One from the pound shop, the other from eBay (A4 cutting mat).
Says "absolute max voltage is 45v", puts 53+v and what do you know its dead! Pretty certain they are fake? That's an odd conclusion based on that result...
Good video. The rise in the number of counterfeit parts being sold on ebay in recent years is a bit scary. I use one of the standard lower voltage versions of this board to power a raspberry pi print server and NAS, which it does very well. I wouldn't trust it anywhere even remotely close to its claimed operating maximums though - particularly without a heatsink.
I wonder if your fake boards would survive with a reasonable heatsink fitted to the IC. Even at their claimed efficiency, they're still dissipating a fair bit of power under load.
Max rated voltage must be the inside switch/mosfet brakedown voltage and heatsink would not help. HV version has different switch/mosfet with higher breakdown voltage.
I had one of these, didnt work at all, just seemed to connect the output to the input, no regulation or conversion
They need low esr caps if you want to push hard.
thanks for saving me and not buy the fake one
Damn! All i know is that Greatscott buys from that same seller! He buys those same converters
I believe there is no original LM2596HVS. ON Semiconductors manufactures the LM2596. I didn't find LM2596HVS on the ON Semiconductors website.
HVS is a Chinese version.
LM2596HVS good, it will depend on luck.
The step down converter I've bought is mad, it is a constant current and constant voltage converter. If I supply voltage from battery to this converter then I can adjust voltage and current just fine but if I supply power to the converter by a transformer wall adaptor, I can adjust voltage but not current. The transformer was outputting 5.2v at 700ma. Does anyone know why it's happening? The converter does not get hot.
I want to buy a good step down cc cv converter, please suggest me a good one.
foxy says not cool ! how long before fake parts are fitted in aircraft avionics ?
"how long before fake parts are fitted in aircraft avionics ?"
They already are, there have been cases of fake electronics components used in repairs being discovered and fleets being grounded till they were replaced by authentic parts. Not just electronics either, fake mechanical parts are a problem for airlines too, including fake high-tension bolts which shear way too easily. Even the US military has a problem with counterfeits...
www.wired.com/2008/04/fake-parts-in-a/
I was afraid someone would say that I have known a long time that such things go on all down to penny pinching accountants and component buyers
Man 8 years ago that was a different world
Have you tried controlling one of those regulators with a digital pot?
A little hack project maybe.
Nice idea
I'm struggling with these buck boost things. I had an Arduino project set up with 3 power supplies: 5v, 12v, 6v and all was working fine until I decided to get 1 20A 12v supply and use 2 buck/boosts to get the 5v and 6v as well as the native 12v to power everything from one power source. Now my push button keeps detecting as "high" when it shouldn't be. If I disconnect the servo + side, it doesn't do it, so it seems to be caused by electrical noise.
Can anyone explain how I stop this as it's making me crazy?
OMG don't worry, it turned out to be a faulty button. I just replaced it and it works fine.
this is electronics 101, why not make one from scratch with a rectifier design ?
introduce me from indonesia, i don't understand English, please inform me for step down like this which is better, blue or red, i am very grateful if you want to answer because in indonesia there is no revealing about this step down, thank you, thank you very much
Thanks for posting this. Great stuff !
Whats the cost difference on the HV?
Chinese vendors lying about product specs? Well I never... ;)
Hi have any of you ever tryed the LM2587 , can`t find any reviews and I bought a few for a 7.4V to 15V use in my Bluetooth amps . thanks Bill
Haha! You took the comment out of my mouth!
So what you do is open a case to get your money back. Then the seller will give you your money back and let you keep the boards which you can treat the remaining ones you have not fried as the non-HV model and have them for free.
can you use a pass transistor with this modual
Thanks for this video realy show the realy of the fake on low prices boards many thanks
For max input give hetsink in IC, coz te circuit work to be maximum and go to HOT
I hope you either got a refund or gave some bad feedback for that seller - hold them accountable for fake products!
Use the low voltage version of this in my resurrected Black and Decker dust buster (lithium 18650 conversion), It rocks!.. Works with the original a.c. transformer too (half wave rectified). Never had a problem with these used anywhere, but will be wary in future ;)
I like your video's. Very good stuff.
This is a very good information, because I was thinking about to buy these fake converters, thanks for helping to make a better selection for my MPPT project for the little power source for arduino feeded from diferent battery voltages...
Thats right the red converter module have the correct smd diode's...
So can someone please share the original link for this regulator or suggest a buck converter the brings down 60V from a li-ion 174Wh battery to 5V 2A, it will be really helpful? +Julian llett
Any ideas why my 3v desktop fan wont work with this LM2597? The fan only lasts a couple of hours with 2AA bats so I connected 4AA through my lm2596 & whatever the voltage the fan will not work. Is it somehow current limiting? Hope someone can help, Many thanks.. John :)
What is the gadget on the left supplying the power to the LM256HV. I want to buy one :)
Daniel Wilson 600W boost converter from eBay.
Julian Ilett Think ill be getting myself one of those as a poor mans bench power supply :D
Thanks! I was wondering too.
Ya let the magic smoke out!
Why you do not do these regulators yourself?
Don't trust just that... the regular 40V version can take some hours of 50-60V abuse and then pass thru 60V and fry your project at output...
Thank u for the informations! 👍😊
thanks man that was helpful I had a fake one I'm sending it back
Very good video and info. Thanks.
It's a bit like the usb convertors that claim 2A output and have the tiniest imaginable surface mount chip. Needless to say it was only capable of giving 500mA which is consistent with the tiny size of the chip and the price.. This didn't matter to me as I am only using the board to supply an Arduino project which draws 100mA tops but I can imagine the magic smoke being released if someone plugged a phone or tablet into it. Be wary of false claims in eBay listings and remember you get what you pay for.