for those concerned about overcharging your battery, if you set your voltage to 13v and install a switch as supreme mentioned in the comments you will not have an overcharging issue, before you start up your heater flip your switch to on, when you shut it down after safe complete shutdown turn your switch to the off position. unless running 24 - 7 no issue and the 13 volts while running will simply keep your battery topped off, cheers
The idea of a battery back up is perfect.. I considered this as well.. shortly after I started researching Diesel heaters... That said, I just setup and started using mine... I do have the 30 amp 12 Volt Converter, same as the one you are using exactly.. I also have the setup to run it using a 12 volt battery.. direct... I have not yet completed my build so I am searching out best practices to complete.. I am at the point now that I am ready to chose a battery back up solution.. so here goes.. Thanks for the upload and the info and also thanks to those that crime in with great suggestions warnings and additional ideas.. So let's get this one figured out right.. what say yall... who has a final solution ??? Thanks
Just a little warning. This method is very dependant upon the design of the power supply used. When the AC is not present the battery is reverse powering the power supply and most general purpose power supplies are not protected against this reverse current flow and the power supply output stage can blow up. I know this because it has happened to me on three different power supplies... not immediately but after a few operations. Once the power supply fails the battery can push an awfully high current through the power supply causing a fire. I'd urge anyone considering this method to use a 10 amp battery charger rather than a power supply. Such a charger will also cope much better with the high inrush currents that occur when the battery has been discharged a bit and the AC power is restored.
@@dbrosco901 That is the recommended solution but you need a diode that is capable if handling the maximum current.... my application is not a heater but I think they have currents of 10amps or more. The problem with the diode solution is power diodes are slow in operation and do allow reverse current to flow for long enough to blow the PSU so a Schotky diode is recommended. As I said, some PSUs are more susceptible to this issue than others and the problem is worse when the battery voltage is very different to the PSU normal voltage. If the battery is discharged the voltage could be 11.5 volts and the battery will hold this voltage for quite some time as it gets charged. The PSU internal feedback circuit is set to adjust its output to 12v but as it supplied more and more current the voltage doesn't change so it provides all the voltage it possibly can and blows the output components. Only some PSU get "confused" by this false output voltage and others will detect this condition as a fault and shutdown. So the other thing to do is to ensure the battery voltage is high enough before connecting the PSU.
Did you hookup the positive of battery to the output positive of the power supply as well as the negative to out of the Power supply? That's gonna be a reverse flow of current, thats not good for the Power supply. I wonder if can buy a power supply that accept charge from the battery or has an input 12 volts that you can connect the battery into it, .. I think putting a Diode on positive wire from battery would be the better idea to have a good /manage the current flow. Hope to see a video on this kind of setup using a DIODE or maybe put a Relay into it that trips the battery to supply a 12 volt to power the power supply in case of the power cut-off . That way it save the Diesel heater from sudden power out and to avoid the unit in getting toasted. Anyway , Thanks for sharing.. 👍🧡
Returning comments... Well I haven't yet added into the system a back up power supply.. I am just now ready to find a safe reliable solution. My setup it typical. I have a power supply, like the one used here in the video.. and a battery setup... I use the utility power much of the time. But have decided I would feel more confident if I add a safe reliable backup power system. As mentioned prior by many, it needs to operate seamlessly.. as in if utility power fores down it must switch to battery power and be limited to one cycle in order to shut down, but not restart until a manual start up is carried out.. that's the only fully safe and reliable setup I would want full time.
Thought of a way to do this. So if maybe get a cheap solar charge controller 30a and run your ac to dc, converter in to where you would have solar panels connected dc to charge controller. You then connect solar controller to battery as normal and use the 30a outlet on solar controller to power heater. This way, it would use power from ac/dc converter through solar controller as it would when you get power from solar panels, and then if ac/dc cut out like solar panels not getting sun light it would draw power from battery 😉 just a thought.
Alternative option... Could you use a two battery setup with a relay that trips only when the voltage drops.. below desired / needed power ? Thus your charger would only be running to the battery that was not in use.. would this / relay eliminate the issues of concern ?
Youll burn up the power supply and the battery that way. You need to add in a circuit that disconnects automatically. Best cheap way to do this is buy a battery backup (UPS) for a computer. You can buy them all day long for under $100 now.
How would you keep the PS from overcharging the battery?? Am I wrong in thinking this would be a problem? I use a smart battery charger in the same way you are using a PS and to me, this seems much safer because the charger will taper off as the battery reaches capacity. I am no expert so if I am thinking about this wrong I am open to correction.
You are right in thinking that but if you set the voltage to 12.8 or around there then its not really charging you need 13.8 or 14.5 to start charging a battery. Around 12.8 won't charge a battery.
Or if you don't like that idea you buy this little thing on Amazon that cuts voltage at the voltage you set it to and will come back on under a voltage you set. They are like 25$
Then if power supply is running on 110v its charging the battery also then if power goes out or you are at place you can't get power the battery will take over.
Great idea this will be my setup! Is there room to install the power supply inside the heater? Im sure it would be tight. I have the Same heater and supply. Also the battery will constantly be getting charged when connected to AC. Is this a concern for boiling or killing your battery? Thanks
@@supremeautomotive6749 so far working good. Pulling 7-8 amps DC during start up. 2.5amps on high and less than an amp on low. No room for the PS. Wishful thinking.
@@supremeautomotive6749 Yes but you need a stored battery source not just plug into house wall. I read justin case power outage you need stored energy source so you dont damage heater it needs power to run down its cooling shutdown cycle. I think this is what most dont understand
for those concerned about overcharging your battery, if you set your voltage to 13v and install a switch as supreme mentioned in the comments you will not have an overcharging issue, before you start up your heater flip your switch to on, when you shut it down after safe complete shutdown turn your switch to the off position. unless running 24 - 7 no issue and the 13 volts while running will simply keep your battery topped off, cheers
The idea of a battery back up is perfect.. I considered this as well.. shortly after I started researching Diesel heaters... That said, I just setup and started using mine... I do have the 30 amp 12 Volt Converter, same as the one you are using exactly.. I also have the setup to run it using a 12 volt battery.. direct... I have not yet completed my build so I am searching out best practices to complete.. I am at the point now that I am ready to chose a battery back up solution.. so here goes.. Thanks for the upload and the info and also thanks to those that crime in with great suggestions warnings and additional ideas.. So let's get this one figured out right.. what say yall... who has a final solution ??? Thanks
thanks man... this is the only vid that I've come across to answer this question... 👌
Just a little warning.
This method is very dependant upon the design of the power supply used. When the AC is not present the battery is reverse powering the power supply and most general purpose power supplies are not protected against this reverse current flow and the power supply output stage can blow up.
I know this because it has happened to me on three different power supplies... not immediately but after a few operations.
Once the power supply fails the battery can push an awfully high current through the power supply causing a fire.
I'd urge anyone considering this method to use a 10 amp battery charger rather than a power supply.
Such a charger will also cope much better with the high inrush currents that occur when the battery has been discharged a bit and the AC power is restored.
Mine has been plugged in for 4 months never had a issue. The power supply is 30amp could I just put a 10a or 20a fuse on the positive side?
Also this more so if you are using the heater all the time not to just let it sit forever. Its worked great for me.
Good point, would adding a diode from the dc positive out of the power supply to the battery prevent this??
@@dbrosco901 That is the recommended solution but you need a diode that is capable if handling the maximum current.... my application is not a heater but I think they have currents of 10amps or more. The problem with the diode solution is power diodes are slow in operation and do allow reverse current to flow for long enough to blow the PSU so a Schotky diode is recommended.
As I said, some PSUs are more susceptible to this issue than others and the problem is worse when the battery voltage is very different to the PSU normal voltage. If the battery is discharged the voltage could be 11.5 volts and the battery will hold this voltage for quite some time as it gets charged. The PSU internal feedback circuit is set to adjust its output to 12v but as it supplied more and more current the voltage doesn't change so it provides all the voltage it possibly can and blows the output components. Only some PSU get "confused" by this false output voltage and others will detect this condition as a fault and shutdown.
So the other thing to do is to ensure the battery voltage is high enough before connecting the PSU.
@@OwnMyBit thank you for the information. I'll be careful for now. Until I see a better solution.
Did you hookup the positive of battery to the output positive of the power supply as well as the negative to out of the Power supply? That's gonna be a reverse flow of current, thats not good for the Power supply. I wonder if can buy a power supply that accept charge from the battery or has an input 12 volts that you can connect the battery into it, .. I think putting a Diode on positive wire from battery would be the better idea to have a good /manage the current flow. Hope to see a video on this kind of setup using a DIODE or maybe put a Relay into it that trips the battery to supply a 12 volt to power the power supply in case of the power cut-off . That way it save the Diesel heater from sudden power out and to avoid the unit in getting toasted. Anyway , Thanks for sharing.. 👍🧡
Returning comments... Well I haven't yet added into the system a back up power supply.. I am just now ready to find a safe reliable solution. My setup it typical. I have a power supply, like the one used here in the video.. and a battery setup... I use the utility power much of the time. But have decided I would feel more confident if I add a safe reliable backup power system. As mentioned prior by many, it needs to operate seamlessly.. as in if utility power fores down it must switch to battery power and be limited to one cycle in order to shut down, but not restart until a manual start up is carried out.. that's the only fully safe and reliable setup I would want full time.
Thought of a way to do this. So if maybe get a cheap solar charge controller 30a and run your ac to dc, converter in to where you would have solar panels connected dc to charge controller. You then connect solar controller to battery as normal and use the 30a outlet on solar controller to power heater. This way, it would use power from ac/dc converter through solar controller as it would when you get power from solar panels, and then if ac/dc cut out like solar panels not getting sun light it would draw power from battery 😉 just a thought.
Surely the transformer will overcharge the battery the way you have connected it???
Alternative option... Could you use a two battery setup with a relay that trips only when the voltage drops.. below desired / needed power ? Thus your charger would only be running to the battery that was not in use.. would this / relay eliminate the issues of concern ?
You can do that or use 2 batteries make it switch to other one when one goes below voltage
The power bank is so you can use the heater if you have power then if power goes out the battery will take over
Also have a solar panel to charge the battery
I have the same heater with a 12v 40w power supply why doesn't it work?
Needs more then 40w
Youll burn up the power supply and the battery that way. You need to add in a circuit that disconnects automatically. Best cheap way to do this is buy a battery backup (UPS) for a computer. You can buy them all day long for under $100 now.
Hasn't yet in 2 years
what's protecting the battery from over charging?
You set it to 13v or 12.8
How would you keep the PS from overcharging the battery?? Am I wrong in thinking this would be a problem? I use a smart battery charger in the same way you are using a PS and to me, this seems much safer because the charger will taper off as the battery reaches capacity. I am no expert so if I am thinking about this wrong I am open to correction.
You are right in thinking that but if you set the voltage to 12.8 or around there then its not really charging you need 13.8 or 14.5 to start charging a battery. Around 12.8 won't charge a battery.
Or if you don't like that idea you buy this little thing on Amazon that cuts voltage at the voltage you set it to and will come back on under a voltage you set. They are like 25$
Thanks for some clarification. Do you have the name or link to unit that controls voltage from PS?
@@melbayer596 NINGWANG VHM-009 Low-Voltage Board for Battery Over-Discharge Module
@@supremeautomotive6749 I appreciate your help and I appreciate the help of the online community. I learn so much from everyone.
Then if power supply is running on 110v its charging the battery also then if power goes out or you are at place you can't get power the battery will take over.
Great idea this will be my setup! Is there room to install the power supply inside the heater? Im sure it would be tight. I have the Same heater and supply. Also the battery will constantly be getting charged when connected to AC. Is this a concern for boiling or killing your battery? Thanks
Just keep the voltage low on the supply and it won't. They won't boil at 12.5 to like 12.9 or 13 volts
Not sure if it would fit inside I would just screw to the side if anything
I wanted to stick the power supply inside the cabinet to make one package. Haven't received my heater yet to confirm space. Thanks for the input
@@dbrosco901 let me know how it works out.
@@supremeautomotive6749 so far working good. Pulling 7-8 amps DC during start up. 2.5amps on high and less than an amp on low. No room for the PS. Wishful thinking.
Yea,but that backup battery will only run for a few hours on high if the power went out.
The back up is to run on power when you have it that's it. The battery is for the backup so what do you mean??
Also this was test to see if it would work I have 6 golf cart batteries. This video is old look at the date it posted lol
Dasz schemat tego rozwiązania?
Do not follow this advice : this will boil your battery very dangerous
If its in use why would that work?
Do you need to have a power supply to run these heaters?
No just a battery
@@supremeautomotive6749 Yes but you need a stored battery source not just plug into house wall. I read justin case power outage you need stored energy source so you dont damage heater it needs power to run down its cooling shutdown cycle. I think this is what most dont understand
Kemey ke selam do asmelash