How To Remove Stuck Engine Covers & Oil Filter-Vintage Motorcycle Restoration Project: Part 25
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- Опубликовано: 28 июн 2019
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Here’s how to remove the side covers and inspect the oil filter system on a Honda Twin.
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This video series features the complete restoration of a 1972 CL350 Honda Scrambler motorcycle. The videos should help anyone whether working on a cafe racer build or a full-on original restoration. I'm definitely not an expert so please refer to your manuals for proper disassembly and assembly instructions. Please leave comments if you have any questions. I'll be happy to help answer questions if I can confidently provide solutions. Again, I'm not a professional. This is my 2nd Honda motorcycle restoration and I'm learning every single day. I'd love to hear your tips if you have better ways to do things. I hope you find the series useful and entertaining. I strive to show as much detail as possible so that the videos can be used as not only a how-to resource but also a reference for the placement and original set up of parts and systems.
If you don't have one already please get a manual for your specific project. There are many available online for download for free.
Common Motor Collective, from which I source many of my replacement parts, has a fantastic resource on their website: bit.ly/CBManuals
You can also join groups on Facebook and get involved in the community.
Keep on wrenching, Friends!
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A better way to do it would be to stick a wooden handle in the oil filler hole and use that to lightly lever it off, and NO putty knife!
Got away with one there! It all worked out fine. Definitely need to be gentle.
1970s Japanese bikes, the engine cases are held on by what’s called a JIS or Japanese industrial standard screw. A Phillips number three doesn’t quite fit right in. It will strip out the heads.
Correct. I have a video planned to show important JIS is. Game changer!
I have run into the same situation on my cb350. Outer screws are loose but the 3 oil filter screws stripped with impact tool. Maybe I’ll try some heat tomorrow on the case. Your videos have inspired to finally my 71 going. I have put on a new harness which solved my electrical gremlins and am putting new rectifier/coils and shockwave ignition. The oil that came out looks like hell so am getting that done while my coils come in. Thanks Brian.
I ended up drilling them out in a later video. Those are always the worst ones from my experience. Good luck with your build! Good call on the new harness. Eliminates a ton of headaches.
Hey there! Big fan of yours, sincerely thanks for all the videos.
8.8 on the bolt head tells you the strength quality of the metal the bolt is made out of, in this case is equivalent to a Grade 5 bolt.
What you’ll want to do is find out the ‘diameter’ of the bolt in millimeters, then the ‘thread-pitch’, then the ‘length’ of the bolt when giving bolt dimensions. So for example an M3x1.25x20 is a bolt that has a 3mm diameter with a 1.25 thread-pitch that is 20mm long not including the bolt head.
Also **fun fact**, the threads that are on the end of the long air-box pin (holds them together) has the perfect dimensions to get the oil filter out, so no need to buy a bolt!
Hope this info helps anyone, peace ✌🏼 10:25
Great explanation. I didn’t know that about the air filter bolt! Thank you.
i will try this Thanks for the tip :D
Good luck!
thanks man this was a big help!
Awesome to hear!
why not use an impact drill at low torque?
Those JIS heads strip very easily.
I'd be tempted to use the filler hole to jam a screwdriver handle in or something.
That could work!
Should've put some heat to those bolts first. That might've helped.
That would have helped.
Is a rubber mallet the best thing to be using to free up the stuck engine case?
I've got a similar issue with the engine case being stuck on but luckily all the bolts came out easily. I just can't figure out whether a dead blow or soft face (nylon / rubber) hammer would be a better option to free up the aluminium engine case without doing any damage?
I've only got a standard old steel hammer my dad gave me, so I'm trying to figure out the best tool to purchase for the job so I can finally change my clutch.
Rubber for sure. And a boat load of patience.
@@KeepOnWrenching thanks!
My 85 virago 1000xv needs new clutch. I found allen key that fits the right side cover...buts there no way ill b able to do it by hand.
Wiuld the impact driver work on that?
I’d do it by hand with an old school impact driver.
Omg thank you, I broke a putty knife trying to get in that thing lol
They can be stubborn especially around those dowels.
"Only 2 kind"
"A pointy one and a flat one"
Hmm.
As a kid I got stuck screws out without and impact. Didn't have one.
If the screw head was damaged I gently tapped the head to restore as best I could the original shape. Then I used a JIS Phillips with and vice grip clamped on the handl. Hammer the screwdruver into the screw repeatadly..then Push and turn. Propane torch for the stubborn ones.
Now? I use an impact gun and just lightly hold it on the screw amd let it hammer for a while. Then bust it.
Whatever works.
And for the love of God use new cap head bolts (allens) and ANTISEIZE.
for the super stripped ones I take a Dremel or hacksaw blade and cut a slot in the head. If you do this long enough you will end up pulling the threads out with the bolts sometimes. Helicoil is your friend there. Did I mention penatrating spray? Soak it for a week if you can.
I've had some break off below the surface. Broken bolt extraction is beyond the scope of this comment.
The biggest thing is get a JIS screwdriver. Otherwise your gonna strip them out.
JIS IS KEY INDEED!
What's happened to your arms?
I was mauled by a dog.
for next time, never stick or drive anything between to mating surfaces, you can fuck them up.
Definitely can. Gotta be careful but it can be done just to get something moving. Heat and rubber hammer is the way to go tho.
@@KeepOnWrenching its a nono, the risk is not worth it. Just research how to do it properly. Yes a rubber hammer is good, but not if you are hitting a metal spatula into two mating surfaces.
Luckily everything worked out!
sheesh! din't ask to work in my shop
Your arms look like youve had a few accidents...
Ha ha. Not sure what you mean.
DUDE! Don't stick anything between 2 mating surfaces, and NEVER drive something between 2 cases with a hammer! I can't believe you titled this 'How to' - it should be how NOT to...
Nooo! He said how to remove them which is exactly what he did. He never said they'd be any good or seal again afterwards... A nice blob of blue Hylomar left over from Del's sump plug threads will do nicely to fill the gouges 😉
It was fine.
What do you suggest then ? 🤔
this video should be removed , im sorry… but you’re gonna make dummies copy what u did and cause more hassle for them. more problems… i just use mirco torch in those screws heat up those screws and unscrew it without hammering 😂
Nothing wrong with using an impact driver with a JIS bit.
thats how u jack up the threads and put hair line cracks :( its ok its your parts not mine haha