Honda Civic 2001-2005 EGR Intake Manifold Cleaning code p0401
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
- For those searching for a video on getting to the manifold area and needing to clean the egr passage way for the manifold this video should support those efforts.
Great job. I cleaned mine twice and I've done a ton of civic head jobs. What you are actually cleaning are the egr passages. It is easier to jus unbolt the egr plate from the intake manifold itself to clean. The "metal plate" in the video is actually a intake manifold gasket that sits between the head and the egr plate that is supposed to be replaced. All and all you did a pretty good job.
So you recommend just replacing the plate?.... If so, I will tackle that this summer. How about outtake areas. I that area tricky, and do you have any recommendations?
But I think the more you take stuff apart there's increased chance to create leaks as there are 4 rubber seals between egr plate and manifold per cylinder costing about 10 bucks a piece so cheap bastard like me doesn't want to pay gazillions to Honda for some lousy rubber gaskets. I had to get injector+throttle body seals from Honda for tiny 70 bucks total because I couldn't find those anywhere else in Europe and want to play it safe. 70 freaking bucks for 8 o-rings and 1 tb-gasket.
Thanks a lot, Jason! Very good explanation. Just please film in landscape mode next time :) It is impossible to watch it on phone. Though the video is just 30 min long the actual work took us 6 hours non stop!!! :) (Take additional 2 hours for beer and showering)
Some additional points that I found important:
1. The thing we are trying to remove and clean is held in 6 places:
a. Two elongated nuts on top left and right. Easily accessible from the top
b. Two long bolts on very sides. Easily accessible from the top
c. One top bolt in the middle. Easily accessible from the top
d. One impossible nut visible from the top. Accessible from the top only with closed wrench (10mm I believe). If you don't have a closed wrench DO NOT START THE WORK, GET THE CLOSED WRENCH FIRST IF YOU DON'T HAVE ONE. To screw/unscrew it from the bottom is crazy hard.
2. Important to close engine openings we uncover with cloth or paper towels to prevent debris and/or small parts falling inside the engine
3. Be very careful with tubes and plastic fixtures as the car is old and plastic and rubber are tired so very easy to break something.
4. Indeed as Jason suggested you might want to replace PCV valve (PN 17130PH1003) and clean its tube (PN 17131PLC000). It is positioned in the small black pocket-like extension (PN 11850PLA000) on the engine to the right of oil filter if you look from the top.
5. If you want to replace other parts you can consider buying some of these these before you start or just use these as a reference:
a. PCV valve - PN 17130PH1003 (better replace this in an old car if not already replaced recently)
b. PCV tube - PN 17131PLC000 (better replace this in an old car if not already replaced recently)
c. Air breather tube - PN 17153PLC000 (Can be old/folded. Check yours. Easy to replace. Can be replaced later)
d. Throttle gasket/packing - PN 16176PLC003 (Check if necessary)
e. Injector O-rings - PN 91302PLC000 (Can and better be replaced if not replaced recently. Look for oil on injectors then taking off the fuel line)
f. Manifold gasket to be cleaned - PN 17055PLD004 ( in case you ruin it somehow. Don't scratch or fold it )
g. Air filter - PN 17220PLCY00 (When did you change last time?)
h. Oil filter - PN 15400RBAF01 (When did you change last time?)
j. Motor oil (When did you change last time?)
Now don't just run and buy everything. It costs a lot of money. I suggest you buy ahead a, b and maybe e. If it is a service time then g,h,j as well. The rest is up to you. Yes you can google these part numbers to see where they are on service drawings. Also make sure that these part numbers suits your model/engine.
Good luck to the next mechanics.
Good heads up.
But didn't you also replace the 4 intake manifold gaskets? (they go into the 4 ports/holes of the manifold). $5.50 each. Part # 17105-PMR-A01
It's part #10 in this diagram:
www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~gasket~17105-pmr-a01.html?Vin=2HGES25743H556198&Filter=()
Thanks bro
@@Dziricani in time, I did.. the video was made because at the time there was absolutely no video showing how to access these areas
Thanks for this - it saved so much time. One thought - we couldn't get the injectors out and still keep them attached the rail. We ended up taking the rail out and then getting the injectors out of the intake by twisting them out. There was a little gas spillage but not too bad and it all evaporated long before we were ready to start the car, so no issues there. You could probably pull the fuel pump fuse and run the car until it dies to cut down on the spillage.
Thanks again! This video has helped me on more than one occasion. Just wanted to come thru and drop a thank you. Only vid I can find that shows this work. 💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼
You are welcome and, I truly appreciate the reach out.
Heartly Thanks to Mr Jason. My car run like new one smooth. Just wanna update what i found I damaged the middle screw I tried few different things. Then bought kinchrome rachet o ring 12mm spanner for 15$ that worked like pro. You can undo screw easily from top and only two bracket need to be done from underneath. As jason mentioned there are only the two bolts and one screw need to undo. Thanks again. My car was in poor performance and Limp mode intermittent. Now Smoothly.
Thanks man. I've cleaned the valve and the port under the valve over and over but still getting rough idle this helped s ton!
My God I've been looking for this video forever, like the others says, this video has answered so many questions! It was hard to visualize how this was done, but this video is gonna be my step by step guide thank you good sir!
+kevin reales ... youare welcome brother! I hope for you it goes well! The steps near the end are the crucial ones. I also suggest replacing the PCR valve while you're down there.
Good suggestion about PCV valve. Our broke while I tried to pull off the PCV tube. The PCV tube can be replaced/cleaned too I think.
Thanks!!!! I will be helping a friend with this job. I feel like a pro now that I watched your video. I knew it was the runners, but wow are they in an inconvenient location! (I thought my Prelude was a pain....)
I did this process to my 2003 Civic today. Found that with a ratcheting box end wrench you can easily remove the center nut through the access hole just under the center bolt on the manifold. Still got under the car to loosen the three 10mm nuts on the two brackets below otherwise you can't move the manifold after loosening all 5 bolts and one nut. Mine was completely clogged!!
You had better luck than me with that... I had a old one that used to be my grandfather's and it just wasn't long enough to get the torque I need to get loose... Thank you much for the the info... I hope it's all good now. A few week's ago I just cleaned the out take manifold. This week I'm going to replace the fuel pump.
I just pulled the cylinder head on my 01 ex and the intake manifold bolts are the hardest part of the job. Such a crazy and pain in the
A$$ spot to get at them
+John Mccleary .... those bolts SUCK BIG TIME...
Yea they do I just got head back and picking head bolts up tomorrow..should go pretty smooth now that I know where the hell those Im bolts are lol
Just a little addition: you dont necessary need to remove the injector railing and the injectors (I snapped an O-ring btw doing this), just make sure when you remove the fuel hoses to catch about a quart of fuel
Wasn't so bad as I thought, just do it carefully with thought and tape bolts etc. stuff together and put them in a jar or something so that you know what goes where and nothing goes missing. Also disconnecting battery could be smart move. New gaskets can be pricey because they can only be bought from Honda (except intake manifold gasket) but I guess they can be re-used if feeling lucky. I replaced all gaskets (between intake-block, 4 bottom injector 0-rings and gasket between throttle body-intake) just to make sure there won't be any leaks.
good video man, thanks iam doing the same stuff today..getting to work...
Thanks for sharing this video ,it is a great help to me !
Great video man. Thanks for taking the time to document this.
Hi mate do u know whice are the vacum hoses on this car ? I need to check the hoses on my car. But i dont know which the vacum hoses are ? Tyanks
Sweet man, great job. Thanks!
So after you did this, did you end up clearing out the code from your computer? I have the "Engine Management light" on in my Civic (which in the state of Mass means I fail inspection) so I'm trying to see if doing this much labor is really worth it... I did the same as you, replaced the EGR valve and still have the "engine light" on so I'm going to have to try it this weekend. (I bought my Civic with 200,000 miles)
+Jose Huertas-Silva ....The light came off... If for some reason yours doesn't after this clean, then you may also need to clean thou out take manifold.
+Jason Sweet so I went in earlier today and found out that the paths were clean the genius who put the intake manifold gasket put the non-egr gasket on. After going to the parts store I replaced it and the light went off. Thank you for the video though it helped highly with the replacement.
hey are you telling me I dont have to take the 3 bolts off, to access the manifold???
What did you use to clean it? I'm sorry, I might've missed it if you said so.
I used engine cleaner and corroborator cleaner.
I really appreciate this video.
You are welcome....
Can you list what is needed for this job? Also what needs to be replaced and cleaned?
Seems that all you need is gasket between throttle body and manifold and 4x injector o-rings, metal intake manifold gasket can be re-used.
My only complaint: you calling sockets by millilitre when it’s millimeter lol. But good video man.
Lolol.... Subconsciously I was thinking about them 3 beers I was going to drink when finished.
Hey do I really need to get under the car to do this?
+Trevis Lavin..... You will need to get under the car, and definitely use jack stands. Without using jack stands, you may be able to access the two long bolt/nuts at the top of manifold and middle one as mentioned in the video. Those three will allow you to slide the manifold from the engine. However, as I mentioned you will need to get under the car to access the two mounting brackets the bottom part of the manifold is connected to. Not removing the lower mounting brackets won't allow you to slide the manifold back. This also includes the mounting bracket at the top...(See 24:50) Hope this response helps.
Fuck those bottom 3 bolts were a pain in the ass to get back in. I had basically had to tape them standing up on a extensions and bring it up to the stud and then have someone hold it on the stud with a finger through the top while I kinda spun it on from under just enough to get it started. Had to go through all that cause the intake gasket put in didnt have the EGR holes.
Javelin3o4 . Shit... that SUCKS!!!
This is the reason I did an intake manifold swap to my d17a2 the egr chambers get way too dirty way too fast in these cars this is actually a common problem with the vtec models
hey how menny km where on this civic when the cleaningwas done i have a 05 with 190,000km curious if i should clean it even though im not having an issue with it ?
not sure how miles convert to km but there were about 200,000 miles.... should have done it really at about 150,000. Another overlooked item that should be replaced at least each 30,000 is that pcv valve.
+Jason Sweet I can't find new PCV valve anywhere, I have crawled through dozens of online part stores in Europe and Ebay but no PCV valve for 2002 1.6 Civic.. It appears that I can only get one from Honda dealer and it'll cost at least 60 bucks, not going to pay such money for simple plastic valve.
Rockauto.com has them for $6.50 USD, add roughly $11 for international economy shipping
+CJ Gitter Seems that only 1.7/2.0 engines are supported, that's the problem because US market has different engines and metallic threaded PCV valves but mine is plastic sitting in rubber grommet at the side of the crankcase.
Excellent video!
Wow! Thank you!
+letmejustdoit You're Welcome...
thanks a lot ... you are brave
good video jason!!!!!! thank you
Could that cause code p1491 to pop up too
Possibly...including your egr valve.
"Damn spider..." lol 13:04
I started this process but realized I had to wait for another day. What I can't figure out is how to get the air filter box back on over the throttle plate.
You have to loosen the pipe connector at the bottom of the filter block
@@davidrakos5147 Sorry I bothered you for something so small. I understood about the pipe connector. It turned out that the arthritis I have in my hands now makes it hard to wrangle parts on and off. I am a petite senior lady. Using arthritis creme and mechanics gloves I was able to put everything back with no problem.
@@seriouslynow22 you did not bother me at all. I am just a viewer like you. But my opinion is people have to help each other if they can.
All right let's do it
Thanks alot!
david app you're welcome!
good job thanks
juandr242424 You're welcome... TY for sharing.
how long did this take you...awesome video btw
Woody's Geek Channel ... it took about 4hours...
THANKS A LOT
monty Singh you are welcome... and ty for watchin
Milliliters 😂😂
Lolol… oooops I know right. I think I was thirsty
dlete egr its be better.engine be more clean
I needed to clean all areas, and replace my egr, and pcv valve.
I think you can't delete electronic EGR valves because computer monitors EGR flow and puts on check engine light if there's a problem. You can often delete older vacuum operated EGR valves.
Remove the dumb air box assembly; all of it
Yea he’s clueless