*If you want a SNINNY FINISH the part needs to be Polished first! Use a Vibration debaring machine used by bullet reloaders from cleaning brass shell casings and fill with 50/50 clay cat liter plus coarse or cracked corn-meal (local animal feed store). Vibrate for 10 hours or until parts are mirror shinny! Results PERFECT the first time!!! For best results get a automatic stirring bar and put an anode on BOTH sides of the part (jumper wire it) for EVEN plating.*
Thanks so much for the upload. I've finally dipped my toe into the metal plating 3D print field. All the help I can get probably won't be enough. Thanks, again for the video and tips. Keep up the good work. Great watch. Will you go to Heaven when you die? Here’s a quick test: Have you ever lied, stolen, or used God’s name in vain? Jesus said, whoever looks with lust has already committed adultery in their heart. If you have done these things, God sees you as a lying, thieving, blasphemous, adulterer at heart, and the Bible warns that one day God will punish you in a terrible place called Hell. But God is not willing that any should perish. Sinners broke God’s Law and Jesus paid their fine. This means that God can legally dismiss their case: “For God so loved the world that He gave His only begotten Son, that whoever believes in Him should not perish but have everlasting life.” Then Jesus rose from the dead, defeating death. Today, repent and trust Jesus, and God will give you eternal life as a free gift. Then read the Bible daily and obey it. God will never fail you.
Hello, Brazil here! If I make a battery like yours, how will I know which is the positive and negative pole? And one last question, does it work with materials made of aluminum?
my solution went brown and gross is it because I am not using distilled water? if so what alternatives can I use (on closer inspection it looks murky green)
Too much amps on your power supply? Gotta do it on low amp and low voltage otherwise your copper anodes (copper wire) turns brown (oxedize). You can use 2 table spoon of toilet cleaner liquid too but careful with fumes
So like in a homemade hydrogen cell that's built with dental wire that gives off the Palladium atoms I think that if there's something left over you could take that solution and use it to plate something with Palladium Am I wrong do you know what I saying?
I played the video twice and copper plating is still all pitted. How many cycles does it take? Also, as a pawn of the far right there is something about that charger I just do not trust.
it can be used to electroforming? if i put the piece in the solution in a biggest time i would have a biggest cooper layer? my solution turned brown but the brow decanted in the recipient. i can just filter it?
L'électrolyse de l'acide sulfurique donne à la cathode du dihydrogène et à l'anode du dioxygène. L'obtention sulfate de cuivre est secondaire,donc je m'étonne de la rapidité de votre réaction.. cette méthode n'est pas la bonne, cherchons encore, merci
Only works on galvanized parts, or nickel parts, this will not work for 90% of people because they want to plate iron, or something without a precoat of nickel.
Actually won't work on galvanized part. Because as you already know the galvanization will remove iron from metal surface in order to rust proof it, so copper does not stick to the part. Thats why i sanded that washer to bare metal becuase it had coating on it.
@@Simple.Crafts The only good way to copper plate iron, zinc, etc. is to plate first a alcaline copper not acidic one because it won't stick, then you can use acidic copper bath. Or as said on a nickel layer then copper
@@HereNow2226 unfortunately alkaline formulae are complex (some use cyanide) . It"s not only a pH problem. If you want a copper finish with a steel part first nickel plate then copper plate (both are acidic and simple and you don't need a thick layer of nickel). Or buy a alkaline copper just to plate a fine layer of copper on steel then a more thiker layer with an acidic copper bath. In industries they get rid of a copper (acidic and alkaline) then a nickel layer and a chrome (because of environnemental problem with the alkaline bath) : they use a double or a triple nickel and then finish with a chrome plating
If you have the opportunity, get yourself a premade copper electrolyte with sulfuric acid. Way easier to handle and you’ll get better results. Stainless steel requires nickel-strike first before copper plating.
it's all about amperage. high current would kill your solution. use 1 or 2 tsps of toilet cleaner in your mix for better result but use it in a well ventilated room. and also reduce the amount of salt you use. keep me updated pls.
Salt AND soda? That's something new. I've tried vinegar + soda, vinegar + salt, Hydrochloric acid (toilet cleaner). So far I've got the best results with acid. But I'll try your solution as well!
Most likely not as brass is an alloy of copper and tin (don’t fact check me on that) and you’d have a better chance of using a blowtorch to heat up a brass brush and brush it over the part (which is what I do)
Just like when you dissolve sugar in water, at some point the water can't take any more sugar, so it becomes concentrated. same concept here. After a while, the solution gets a deep blue color, and the process slows down by itself. You could tell by the amount of bubbles that are being produced; they become less and less visible. Basicaly, when it's blue enough, it's ready.
@@Simple.Crafts Thanks for the info, I'm going to try this soon for the first time so I'll look out for that. I'll try with salt water but I've seen others recommended an alkaline solution followed by an acetic acid solution for the best results
Anytime. Yes, you get more shine and a more durable finish with acid-based solutions, but they're more advanced and require more work. It's so much fun!
As far as i know, Can not copper plate aluminium directly like shown in the video due to its lack of electrical conductivity. For it to work though, It has to be treated with other methodes prior to copper, zinc for example.
@@Simple.Crafts have you tried electroplating a carbon rod from a battery ? Like a good layer of copper? I been messing around with carbon arc welding and been trying to make my own rods out of charcoal and graphite ect. Just experimenting with it rn . I got the carbon rods in decent shape but just missing the copper plate . I tried but its more like a slimy moss that comes off . Not alot online on the secrets of the plating procedure. Idk if my problem is the solution or the power supply. I only tried it couple times with voltage 1.5-5v 0.5a-3a Any suggestions?
Not done it myself. I would definitely look into it in near future. But as far as I know: 1. your copper sulfate must be well concentrated. Like deep blue color almost. Meaning there are enough copper ions in it. 2. Your graphite rods must be dense enough and not powdery on the surface. Otherwise, it's like painting on a dusty surface. 3. Maybe try using different graphite source. Or maybe yours isn't dry enough? 4. Your power supply setting looks good and is not the issue. Keep me updated plz
@@Simple.Crafts thanks . You’re right it probably is the powder/flakes on the outside of the rod and possibly even the type of carbon and the continuity through out the rod. I plan on using carbon rods from zinc and graphite from different types of pencils crushed into powder , and making a conducive ink .. I will then carefully char in enclosed cans differnt types of woods like hard woods and soft woods ect. ,then check the resistance of samples from each can till i find plenty good charcoal to make a rod out of each type of char-wood . The char will be compressed into a pipe in my preferred size and the pipe will also be in 2 halfs held together by metal clamps . I will probably hammer down into the pipes to really compress the char. I forgot I will also need a binder for the char to stick together which i might use the conductive ink or use water glass , i used water glass previously without adding a layer of ink but will probably olay around and test differnt tyoes Of binders.. Also might heat dry or let natural dry the rod before i char it up again in the compressed pipe. I will probably test alot of different samples
Yes, you can if you make a much higher volume solution than mine (maybe 4 times bigger). Then you will need bigger anodes (copper wires) and less salt to reduce the current. But for the plating phase, I wouldn't go with 12 volts, unless your plating object is massive.
I think it could be done. If you already made the copper solution, then Just plate bunch of them at once in a large container ( tie them in series with copper wire).
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*If you want a SNINNY FINISH the part needs to be Polished first! Use a Vibration debaring machine used by bullet reloaders from cleaning brass shell casings and fill with 50/50 clay cat liter plus coarse or cracked corn-meal (local animal feed store). Vibrate for 10 hours or until parts are mirror shinny! Results PERFECT the first time!!! For best results get a automatic stirring bar and put an anode on BOTH sides of the part (jumper wire it) for EVEN plating.*
My solution turned green 🤔
Thanks so much for the upload. I've finally dipped my toe into the metal plating 3D print field. All the help I can get probably won't be enough. Thanks, again for the video and tips. Keep up the good work. Great watch.
Will you go to Heaven when you die? Here’s a quick test: Have you ever lied, stolen, or used God’s name in vain? Jesus said, whoever looks with lust has already committed adultery in their heart. If you have done these things, God sees you as a lying, thieving, blasphemous, adulterer at heart, and the Bible warns that one day God will punish you in a terrible place called Hell. But God is not willing that any should perish. Sinners broke God’s Law and Jesus paid their fine. This means that God can legally dismiss their case: “For God so loved the world that He gave His only begotten Son, that whoever believes in Him should not perish but have everlasting life.” Then Jesus rose from the dead, defeating death. Today, repent and trust Jesus, and God will give you eternal life as a free gift. Then read the Bible daily and obey it. God will never fail you.
In its country, pure copper sulfate is illegal.
Oh , the good thing is we can always DIY it👌
@@Simple.Crafts DIY forever. Nice videos btw!!!
Move to the USA where EVERYTHING is legal!!!!
CuSO4 is not illegal
@@rickrolls4928 moving to USA is illegal! 🤣🤣🤣
Wow I have to try this thanks !!!!
Hello, Brazil here!
If I make a battery like yours, how will I know which is the positive and negative pole?
And one last question, does it work with materials made of aluminum?
my solution went brown and gross is it because I am not using distilled water? if so what alternatives can I use (on closer inspection it looks murky green)
Too much amps on your power supply? Gotta do it on low amp and low voltage otherwise your copper anodes (copper wire) turns brown (oxedize). You can use 2 table spoon of toilet cleaner liquid too but careful with fumes
@@Simple.Crafts I am using 12 volts
@@Simple.Crafts I also have a 5 volt supply will try it thank you
12v is way too high for this. Yeah 5v should be ok. Glad to help
@@Simple.Crafts yup it started turning blue Thank you so much
hi how much water did you take ? nice vid 💪
Hi. I'm glad you enjoyed. About 220 cc of water for 1 TSP of baking soda ( and a bit less of salt )
So like in a homemade hydrogen cell that's built with dental wire that gives off the Palladium atoms I think that if there's something left over you could take that solution and use it to plate something with Palladium Am I wrong do you know what I saying?
good one, tried and it gave a close result, can we apply with other metals? instead of copper? for more colors 😏
I played the video twice and copper plating is still all pitted. How many cycles does it take? Also, as a pawn of the far right there is something about that charger I just do not trust.
it can be used to electroforming? if i put the piece in the solution in a biggest time i would have a biggest cooper layer? my solution turned brown but the brow decanted in the recipient. i can just filter it?
L'électrolyse de l'acide sulfurique donne à la cathode du dihydrogène et à l'anode du dioxygène. L'obtention sulfate de cuivre est secondaire,donc je m'étonne de la rapidité de votre réaction.. cette méthode n'est pas la bonne, cherchons encore, merci
I enjoyed and learned a lot 👍🏻
Thanks
This réaction produise only hydrogène at cathod and oxygène at anood. It IS like electrolys of water
Only works on galvanized parts, or nickel parts, this will not work for 90% of people because they want to plate iron, or something without a precoat of nickel.
Actually won't work on galvanized part. Because as you already know the galvanization will remove iron from metal surface in order to rust proof it, so copper does not stick to the part. Thats why i sanded that washer to bare metal becuase it had coating on it.
@@Simple.Crafts The only good way to copper plate iron, zinc, etc. is to plate first a alcaline copper not acidic one because it won't stick, then you can use acidic copper bath. Or as said on a nickel layer then copper
@@chlore2amine so if i start with copper sulfate crystals dissolved in distilled water, can i add baking soda to alkalize it? will it work?
opps i saw other video, it will not work because it will take out the copper ions as copper carbonate precipitations
@@HereNow2226 unfortunately alkaline formulae are complex (some use cyanide) . It"s not only a pH problem.
If you want a copper finish with a steel part first nickel plate then copper plate (both are acidic and simple and you don't need a thick layer of nickel). Or buy a alkaline copper just to plate a fine layer of copper on steel then a more thiker layer with an acidic copper bath.
In industries they get rid of a copper (acidic and alkaline) then a nickel layer and a chrome (because of environnemental problem with the alkaline bath) : they use a double or a triple nickel and then finish with a chrome plating
Thank you for your tutorial. Is this method can be use for 3d resin which applied with carbon conductive and stainless still for its coat?
If you have the opportunity, get yourself a premade copper electrolyte with sulfuric acid. Way easier to handle and you’ll get better results.
Stainless steel requires nickel-strike first before copper plating.
Tell me what to do to get pure silver color for silver items video pls
Can i plate copper on to aluminium heatsink, it's just small heatsink or i need to plating it first with zinc/nickel?
In order to plate aluminum you need to treat the aluminum in a zincate solution.
I make solution of copper give 4.8v but in 15 minutes the solution color is converted in to yellow color
it's all about amperage. high current would kill your solution. use 1 or 2 tsps of toilet cleaner in your mix for better result but use it in a well ventilated room. and also reduce the amount of salt you use. keep me updated pls.
Salt AND soda? That's something new. I've tried vinegar + soda, vinegar + salt, Hydrochloric acid (toilet cleaner). So far I've got the best results with acid. But I'll try your solution as well!
Yeah. Acid is also nice. It produces more toxic fumes, though they can be managed with a good respirator. The results would be almost the same.
Nice video 👍
junk
Cool!! Thanks!!
Thanks. Hope you enjoyed
Çok faydalı video teşekkür ederim.bakır teller bir defa mı kullanılır.
glad you liked it. you can clean those copper wires with sand paper or steel wool and use it again and again.
can you make it using stainless
Can we do the same procedure with brass
Most likely not as brass is an alloy of copper and tin (don’t fact check me on that) and you’d have a better chance of using a blowtorch to heat up a brass brush and brush it over the part (which is what I do)
How can you tell when the electrolytes ready? Is there any benefit to acidic electrolyte?
Just like when you dissolve sugar in water, at some point the water can't take any more sugar, so it becomes concentrated. same concept here. After a while, the solution gets a deep blue color, and the process slows down by itself. You could tell by the amount of bubbles that are being produced; they become less and less visible. Basicaly, when it's blue enough, it's ready.
@@Simple.Crafts Thanks for the info, I'm going to try this soon for the first time so I'll look out for that. I'll try with salt water but I've seen others recommended an alkaline solution followed by an acetic acid solution for the best results
Anytime. Yes, you get more shine and a more durable finish with acid-based solutions, but they're more advanced and require more work. It's so much fun!
@@Simple.CraftsAny compromise to avoid acid and still create durable more shiny finish? Maybe use 5% vinegar or a battery electrolyte?
does it work on aluminium parts?
As far as i know, Can not copper plate aluminium directly like shown in the video due to its lack of electrical conductivity. For it to work though, It has to be treated with other methodes prior to copper, zinc for example.
@@Simple.Crafts Thank you, will research more :D
Anytime
nice
Thx
Is it actually stained onto the washer?
Yes Permanently. until you sand the copper layer off
@@Simple.Crafts have you tried electroplating a carbon rod from a battery ? Like a good layer of copper?
I been messing around with carbon arc welding and been trying to make my own rods out of charcoal and graphite ect. Just experimenting with it rn . I got the carbon rods in decent shape but just missing the copper plate . I tried but its more like a slimy moss that comes off . Not alot online on the secrets of the plating procedure. Idk if my problem is the solution or the power supply. I only tried it couple times with voltage 1.5-5v 0.5a-3a
Any suggestions?
Not done it myself. I would definitely look into it in near future. But as far as I know:
1. your copper sulfate must be well concentrated. Like deep blue color almost. Meaning there are enough copper ions in it.
2. Your graphite rods must be dense enough and not powdery on the surface. Otherwise, it's like painting on a dusty surface.
3. Maybe try using different graphite source. Or maybe yours isn't dry enough?
4. Your power supply setting looks good and is not the issue.
Keep me updated plz
@@Simple.Crafts thanks . You’re right it probably is the powder/flakes on the outside of the rod and possibly even the type of carbon and the continuity through out the rod.
I plan on using carbon rods from zinc and graphite from different types of pencils crushed into powder , and making a conducive ink ..
I will then carefully char in enclosed cans differnt types of woods like hard woods and soft woods ect. ,then check the resistance of samples from each can till i find plenty good charcoal to make a rod out of each type of char-wood .
The char will be compressed into a pipe in my preferred size and the pipe will also be in 2 halfs held together by metal clamps . I will probably hammer down into the pipes to really compress the char.
I forgot I will also need a binder for the char to stick together which i might use the conductive ink or use water glass , i used water glass previously without adding a layer of ink but will probably olay around and test differnt tyoes
Of binders..
Also might heat dry or let natural dry the rod before i char it up again in the compressed pipe. I will probably test alot of different samples
Great strategy .Looking forward to the result
Can I use 12v?
Yes, you can if you make a much higher volume solution than mine (maybe 4 times bigger). Then you will need bigger anodes (copper wires) and less salt to reduce the current. But for the plating phase, I wouldn't go with 12 volts, unless your plating object is massive.
@Simple Crafts plan to copper coat tools from an old mechanics toolbox instead of zinc coating them.
I think it could be done. If you already made the copper solution, then Just plate bunch of them at once in a large container ( tie them in series with copper wire).