For street photography/candid photography, I basically use the same kind of settings. Aperture Priority. I set the max ISO to 12800 and minimum shutter speed of 1/125. Since mirrorless cameras have viewfinders that very closely approximate what the raw file will look like, I adjust the exposure comp based on what I see in the viewfinder. If I know that I'll be shooting portraits, I'll want to the max iso to be lower and I'm comfortable with a minimum shutter speed of 1/30.
I shoot almost exclusively in aperture priority. I choose shutter priority mainly to get intentional motion blur, like with waterfalls (1/8 sec is my golden setting for that). And I switch to manual for panoramas, since I want to keep the settings fixed throughout the series. I use auto-ISO and I programmed the lens's programmable ring to change ISO on the fly when I need to. Auto-ISO on my camera keeps ISO to the lowest possible in the range, so in general it does what I want. I don't mess much with exposure compensation. I simply move the camera around to darker/brighter areas while setting exposure, find the sweet spot, then half-press to fix the setting, re-frame, and shoot. Much easier for me than changing a setting. Besides, in a high-contrast scene, some area in the photo is going to be too dark or too bright (or both) no matter what I do, and I can usually fix that in editing.
I use aperture priority about 75% of the time, usually with auto ISO. I’ll switch to manual ISO occasionally if my shutter speed begins to dip too low, and of course if I’m photographing wildlife, I’m either using shutter speed or manual
Mitchell, yet another great video from you. I pretty much do the same thing, using mainly aperture priority, combined with exposure compensation to control the light. While I do enjoy you diving into the technical aspects of your photography, I still always end up being the most mesmerized by just how incredible beautiful your images look, and in his video you even shows images I´ve never seen before so thank you very much. I wish more people would watch your content as I find your videos far more inspiring than most of the "influencer-gear-focused" content you find on RUclips these days. I do watch them once occasionally, but they just all look the same and they almost never inspire me to actually go out and take pictures, all they do is making me want to buy a new camera. Your approach is what photography is all about, not endlessly discussing camera brands, specs all based on the latest trends. I hope you keep up the good work, and I will keep supporting your channel. Regards from Norway
Thank you. Very nice to hear such a thing. And about images, I have sooo many, but more than half of my HDDs are in Australia and I don't even remember what's on them. But, every now and then I discover some images on the HDDs that I have with me and of course I make some new photos too. :)
Thank you for this excellent video. It is very liberating to know that we don’t have to be bogged down by the technical options. I have taken 2 of you classes in the past and always learn something new from your content. Thank you once again. You make photography fun.
Well phrased. Despite I'm not confused with this, I still appreciate to learn how others see it. Great you illustrate your videos with so many photos. It helps to get the point.
I am using A mode with auto iso... which is sorta like a P mode tbh. Since your metering is the same goal and the camera is keeping the ISO as low as possible untill about 1/60 exposure time. And the EV dial/auto exposure and hold... This is 98% of my photos. Even on analog lenses... it just means I set the aperture on the lens, not the camera. There is some S mode use - but usually to force the exposure time to be like 1/10s or slower in combination with a flash and some camera motion. This forces the camera to be wide open anyway. I haven't had had a use for force a really short exposure time. Flash on the 2nd curtain/rear to freeze close by subjects but have the background with a lot of motion.
Excellent discussion. Generally shoot Aperture, only wide open when called for, generally 5.6 or 8 for quick reaction and adjust as time permits. Need to work on using exposure compensation more. 🙄 Tend to bracket more. Glad to see you're getting a change of scenery. You were in Peru for a long time. Carry on. 👍🥂
Привет :), как обычно, топ контент - всё чётко и по делу) Сам давно снимаю в P режиме, 2.8, 3.2, 5.6, 7.1 любимые числа, экспозицию кручу всё время (обычно тоже ухожу в минус), с короткими выдержками на размытие не экспериментировал, но надо, надо когда-то начинать)) А по поводу баланса белого всё верно - всё равно все настройки так и так прикрутятся на посте, так что смысла тоже не вижу всё это крутить прямо из камеры :) Единственная сложность для меня - попасть с экспозицией, потому что перешёл на зеркалку :(
i shoot Aperture priority, usually as wide an aperture as i can with manual ISO. Adjust accordingly depending on how much is the shutter speed. Exposure comp only if lighting situation gets challenging..
This video was helpful. I just replaced my Nikon 24-70 F4 to 24-70 f2.8. I have the Z7. I photograph mostly environmental portraits, and sell my photos
I am a manual mode freak 😂 I think the best mode is the one that suits you to capture the moment (lol you say so at the end while i was typing the comment)
Most of the time, apperture priority, sometimes manual with auto ISO when I need specific time (short or long) for some reason. Often also apperture priority with shutter speed limit and auto ISO, I have two such custom modes prepared, one for "normal" candid shots of people (1/125s, sometimes switched to 1/250s, unfortunately the camera does not offer 1/160s for shutter speed limit), one for sport or other fast action (1/1000s or 1/2000s). Exposure compensation as needed, mostly to avoid clipping on either end of the range; common fine tuning of exposure within 1EV (or even 2EV when things go wrong) can be usually left for postprocess. Fully manual mode is quite rare, mostly for wild light conditions (night sky, extreme brightness range, ...) or when I need a series of images with the same parameters, e.g. for a panorama or timelapse. I never use time priority or full auto, no control over apperture just doesn't seem right. :-) What I liked most in the video is how you point out that for this kind of photography, the top priority is always getting the image and catching the best moment, perfect technical quality is secondary. If there is something really interesting, better get an imperfect image than chase perfect settings for so long that you miss the moment.
There is a hidden learning point for me in this video. You don't mention explicitly, but you don't seem to bother too much about the "sweet spot" of your lens. I mean corner sharpness, chromatic aberration, distortion, etc. If you shoot wide open, for most lenses you sacrifice on quality. It is interesting how much it does not matter for a good image. The bottom line of this video is that photography is not something like instrument flying an Airbus on a dark windy night. In a cockpit you'd better have all the numbers in place, and there is no room for being 'artistic'. But good photography is still more an art than a computing exercise to calculate the amount and shape of light hitting the sensor. And that's why it is so difficult!
Most of the time I use M, set my shutterspeed and aperture and let my camera decide on the iso (auto iso). I can still under-or overexpose if I want to
I use auto ISO in conjunction with the custom modes. So one custom mode will be set to aperture priority, auto ISO, minimum shutter speed of 1/250th, which is enough to freeze motion for most shots of people. Then I have another mode with the minimum shutter set to auto, which generally picks the lowest ISO that I can reasonably hand hold at the selected focal length and which I use for shots where there is less movement. If the camera has three control dials or wheels, I also use manual mode with auto ISO, so I can set shutter speed and aperture for the needs of the shot and let ISO vary, while still having a dial for exposure compensation. That's mainly in low light, where I have to make more decisions about how I want to balance a reasonable shutter speed with the lowest ISO possible. Having these on custom modes means I can switch quickly as the situation demands.
@@isozarr depends on the camera and use case. Generally 6400, but on modern full frame for smaller size images (such as web/social media use), I'd go higher. The new denoise tools do a great job, so don't worry too much about iso. More important to get the shot!
Very nice vid as always mate! I tried to use A priority mode sometimes, but I keep coming back to full M. Since I always start with a apperture and ISO setting in mind, i just adjust the SS. But I'll give it another go :) BTW Was the music good at 05:39 ?
Aperture priority, auto iso with min SS of 1/250 and I'm good for about 80% of the daylight photos. If I stop for a landscape I then switch to the lower iso setting. In the night or low light situations I then move to aperture priority, auto iso with a minum shutter speed of 1/30 or 1/50 of a sec
Thank you for this video. It is great to get insights into how you captured great images. I usually shoot with vintage Nikon lenses on my Sony a7ii. Should I still capture in Aperture priority mode?
Your comments about Auto ISO and having incongruous settings to get the shot in the moment, seem counter-intuitive. Why not set to Auto ISO by default and take it off as the situation calls for it?
There are many ways to do this. Yours is a good idea, but I do feel there's more fiddling to do if change the AUTO ISO. Remember, it's all about NOT losing that moment. Any little extra step and you've lost it. Of course, everything is worth trying and experimenting with, so I might try this at some stage.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
What are your go to settings? Please share and tell me what you think about the video!
For street photography/candid photography, I basically use the same kind of settings. Aperture Priority. I set the max ISO to 12800 and minimum shutter speed of 1/125. Since mirrorless cameras have viewfinders that very closely approximate what the raw file will look like, I adjust the exposure comp based on what I see in the viewfinder. If I know that I'll be shooting portraits, I'll want to the max iso to be lower and I'm comfortable with a minimum shutter speed of 1/30.
Btw, if you are ever in NYC and are doing a walkaround/masterclass, I'd love to attend.
@@Daniel_Zalman I'd love to come to NYC one day, but doesn't seem like that will be any time soon.
Mainly AP, second most frequent option M with auto ISO (when I need to freeze motion, too).
I shoot almost exclusively in aperture priority. I choose shutter priority mainly to get intentional motion blur, like with waterfalls (1/8 sec is my golden setting for that). And I switch to manual for panoramas, since I want to keep the settings fixed throughout the series.
I use auto-ISO and I programmed the lens's programmable ring to change ISO on the fly when I need to. Auto-ISO on my camera keeps ISO to the lowest possible in the range, so in general it does what I want.
I don't mess much with exposure compensation. I simply move the camera around to darker/brighter areas while setting exposure, find the sweet spot, then half-press to fix the setting, re-frame, and shoot. Much easier for me than changing a setting. Besides, in a high-contrast scene, some area in the photo is going to be too dark or too bright (or both) no matter what I do, and I can usually fix that in editing.
I use aperture priority about 75% of the time, usually with auto ISO. I’ll switch to manual ISO occasionally if my shutter speed begins to dip too low, and of course if I’m photographing wildlife, I’m either using shutter speed or manual
Mitchell, yet another great video from you. I pretty much do the same thing, using mainly aperture priority, combined with exposure compensation to control the light. While I do enjoy you diving into the technical aspects of your photography, I still always end up being the most mesmerized by just how incredible beautiful your images look, and in his video you even shows images I´ve never seen before so thank you very much. I wish more people would watch your content as I find your videos far more inspiring than most of the "influencer-gear-focused" content you find on RUclips these days. I do watch them once occasionally, but they just all look the same and they almost never inspire me to actually go out and take pictures, all they do is making me want to buy a new camera. Your approach is what photography is all about, not endlessly discussing camera brands, specs all based on the latest trends. I hope you keep up the good work, and I will keep supporting your channel. Regards from Norway
Thank you. Very nice to hear such a thing. And about images, I have sooo many, but more than half of my HDDs are in Australia and I don't even remember what's on them. But, every now and then I discover some images on the HDDs that I have with me and of course I make some new photos too. :)
Thank you for this excellent video. It is very liberating to know that we don’t have to be bogged down by the technical options. I have taken 2 of you classes in the past and always learn something new from your content. Thank you once again. You make photography fun.
Love looking at your photos. They give me so many creative ideas!
Well phrased. Despite I'm not confused with this, I still appreciate to learn how others see it. Great you illustrate your videos with so many photos. It helps to get the point.
Enjoyable and informative as usual, Mitchell- thank you! Which metering mode do you use, and when? I find spot or centre work best for me.
I am using A mode with auto iso... which is sorta like a P mode tbh. Since your metering is the same goal and the camera is keeping the ISO as low as possible untill about 1/60 exposure time. And the EV dial/auto exposure and hold... This is 98% of my photos. Even on analog lenses... it just means I set the aperture on the lens, not the camera.
There is some S mode use - but usually to force the exposure time to be like 1/10s or slower in combination with a flash and some camera motion. This forces the camera to be wide open anyway. I haven't had had a use for force a really short exposure time. Flash on the 2nd curtain/rear to freeze close by subjects but have the background with a lot of motion.
you are a very good teacher. THANKS
Thank you :)
Excellent discussion. Generally shoot Aperture, only wide open when called for, generally 5.6 or 8 for quick reaction and adjust as time permits. Need to work on using exposure compensation more. 🙄
Tend to bracket more. Glad to see you're getting a change of scenery. You were in Peru for a long time. Carry on. 👍🥂
Amazing short and clear explanation!! Thanks!!
You are one of the best!!!
Awesome. These videos are so helpful and inspirational. Thank you
Great photos!
nice tips....
Привет :), как обычно, топ контент - всё чётко и по делу) Сам давно снимаю в P режиме, 2.8, 3.2, 5.6, 7.1 любимые числа, экспозицию кручу всё время (обычно тоже ухожу в минус), с короткими выдержками на размытие не экспериментировал, но надо, надо когда-то начинать)) А по поводу баланса белого всё верно - всё равно все настройки так и так прикрутятся на посте, так что смысла тоже не вижу всё это крутить прямо из камеры :) Единственная сложность для меня - попасть с экспозицией, потому что перешёл на зеркалку :(
i shoot Aperture priority, usually as wide an aperture as i can with manual ISO. Adjust accordingly depending on how much is the shutter speed. Exposure comp only if lighting situation gets challenging..
This video was helpful. I just replaced my Nikon 24-70 F4 to 24-70 f2.8. I have the Z7. I photograph mostly environmental portraits, and sell my photos
I am a manual mode freak 😂 I think the best mode is the one that suits you to capture the moment (lol you say so at the end while i was typing the comment)
Most of the time, apperture priority, sometimes manual with auto ISO when I need specific time (short or long) for some reason. Often also apperture priority with shutter speed limit and auto ISO, I have two such custom modes prepared, one for "normal" candid shots of people (1/125s, sometimes switched to 1/250s, unfortunately the camera does not offer 1/160s for shutter speed limit), one for sport or other fast action (1/1000s or 1/2000s). Exposure compensation as needed, mostly to avoid clipping on either end of the range; common fine tuning of exposure within 1EV (or even 2EV when things go wrong) can be usually left for postprocess. Fully manual mode is quite rare, mostly for wild light conditions (night sky, extreme brightness range, ...) or when I need a series of images with the same parameters, e.g. for a panorama or timelapse. I never use time priority or full auto, no control over apperture just doesn't seem right. :-)
What I liked most in the video is how you point out that for this kind of photography, the top priority is always getting the image and catching the best moment, perfect technical quality is secondary. If there is something really interesting, better get an imperfect image than chase perfect settings for so long that you miss the moment.
There is a hidden learning point for me in this video. You don't mention explicitly, but you don't seem to bother too much about the "sweet spot" of your lens. I mean corner sharpness, chromatic aberration, distortion, etc. If you shoot wide open, for most lenses you sacrifice on quality. It is interesting how much it does not matter for a good image.
The bottom line of this video is that photography is not something like instrument flying an Airbus on a dark windy night. In a cockpit you'd better have all the numbers in place, and there is no room for being 'artistic'. But good photography is still more an art than a computing exercise to calculate the amount and shape of light hitting the sensor. And that's why it is so difficult!
I use aperture priority most of the times unless I'm doing a studio shoot
Most of the time I use M, set my shutterspeed and aperture and let my camera decide on the iso (auto iso). I can still under-or overexpose if I want to
I use auto ISO in conjunction with the custom modes. So one custom mode will be set to aperture priority, auto ISO, minimum shutter speed of 1/250th, which is enough to freeze motion for most shots of people. Then I have another mode with the minimum shutter set to auto, which generally picks the lowest ISO that I can reasonably hand hold at the selected focal length and which I use for shots where there is less movement. If the camera has three control dials or wheels, I also use manual mode with auto ISO, so I can set shutter speed and aperture for the needs of the shot and let ISO vary, while still having a dial for exposure compensation. That's mainly in low light, where I have to make more decisions about how I want to balance a reasonable shutter speed with the lowest ISO possible.
Having these on custom modes means I can switch quickly as the situation demands.
Do you have a max. ISO set with Auto ISO? And how high is it ?
@@isozarr depends on the camera and use case. Generally 6400, but on modern full frame for smaller size images (such as web/social media use), I'd go higher. The new denoise tools do a great job, so don't worry too much about iso. More important to get the shot!
Very nice vid as always mate! I tried to use A priority mode sometimes, but I keep coming back to full M. Since I always start with a apperture and ISO setting in mind, i just adjust the SS. But I'll give it another go :) BTW Was the music good at 05:39 ?
Aperture priority, auto iso with min SS of 1/250 and I'm good for about 80% of the daylight photos. If I stop for a landscape I then switch to the lower iso setting. In the night or low light situations I then move to aperture priority, auto iso with a minum shutter speed of 1/30 or 1/50 of a sec
Thank you for this video. It is great to get insights into how you captured great images. I usually shoot with vintage Nikon lenses on my Sony a7ii. Should I still capture in Aperture priority mode?
Of course!
Muito bom ouvir um especialista. Você faz tudo parecer simples. Obrigada por compartilhar suas experiências 😉
Aperture priority 99% of the time. With auto ISO usually as well. Manual only for tripod/long exposure stuff.
I need to learn photography
I just bought a used k5iis
Lately I shoot a lot in M with auto ISO. I like it a lot.
My beautiful country Ethiopia 🇪🇹❤❤
I practically always on Aperture priority.
You are always out somewhere in the woods, Mitch. Do we need to start a gofundme for you, or something? ;-)
Yes, please, to keep me in the woods. Haha. This place was PARADISE!
Your comments about Auto ISO and having incongruous settings to get the shot in the moment, seem counter-intuitive. Why not set to Auto ISO by default and take it off as the situation calls for it?
There are many ways to do this. Yours is a good idea, but I do feel there's more fiddling to do if change the AUTO ISO. Remember, it's all about NOT losing that moment. Any little extra step and you've lost it. Of course, everything is worth trying and experimenting with, so I might try this at some stage.
Emotion and telling a story is more important than settings. It's not that hard btw, it's not rocket science.
That's what I said :)