Beautiful! Can't wait to see you use this hammer to make a blade! That press works nicely to avoid splitting and the round wedge topped it off...Sweet!
Loved the hammer Paul, u definitely have hit the ground running with ur craft and the production of the videos, one of my favourite channels mate thank you, John👍🏴
Paul you have demonstrated a goos workmanship and Awesome work. Question what type of tool steel did you used for the hammer, thank you and have a nice day.
Nice work . I have 2 commentaire first can you right the kind of material (ex.1045..) and the size you use? Second wend you use a draw knife tried to cut not just in pulling but go aside to like wend you cut à tomato. Sorry for m'y sentense form im french 😉😉 continue ton bon travaille.
hi from german blacksmith. if its 1045 you can safe a lot time in quenching. gues you never had ablacksmith teaching you? just harden the working tip in water and let it temper itself by the remaining heat in the core. when at straw cool it down complete in the water. done ;) directly move to grind. best regards Carl
It’s 4140 that’s why I quenched it in oil and I feel like I get a more accurate temper in the oven. But I do use the technique you are talking about when I make other tools like hot chisels and punches it definitely saves some time
I am seriously disappointed at the lack of dog-shaped hammers in this video. Great work on that piece though! I never saw this type of hammer before, but now I want to give it a try
damn your eyes, you are too good! also, some might like to know how long you baked it in the oven and a few other details (type of steel etc), but brilliant work, and well done!
Paul Pinto you should try 1045. Water queches , pretty much all I use for hammers. Brian Brazel's told me there's not much need for any other alloy for hammers. I did make my leaf work and doming hammers from 4140. 4340 makes a great hammer too.
You’re definitely right I’ve been trying to get my hands on some 1045 but my local tool steel supplier doesn’t carry it they only have alloy steels. But hopefully I’ll get my hands on some soon and I like that you can water quench it too oil is kind of annoying haha
Paul Pinto hey Paul, try to find someone who does hydraulic cylinder repairs. Those cylinder rods are mostly 1045-1050. They are usually available at scrap prices. When they get bent, scored or scratched deeply. Brian Brazel's, Lyle Wynn and Stan Bryant use them alot for hammer stock, makes great flatters too. Try Speedymetals.com They stock about 1045 bars in round and squares. I order from them when I can't find cylinder stock.
Hi I just found your vids. Great stuff!! Did you make your hydraulic presses? Is there video? I can’t have powerhammer so this would be a great alternative! TIA
Nice work. What are the advantages of a doghead hammer ? I've seen plenty of bladesmithing vids using them, but I have yet to see one explain the WHY of that design. It seems counterintuitive, because the offcenter mass will create transverse torque in both swing and rebound, so I don't get it. Clearly I am missing something, and I really hate feeling that way.
Bro, you’re close to being in danger! To hammer making addiction! It strikes suddenly then it’s too late. That’s what, ahh, happened to this guy I know.
Paul Pinto - serious question: I noticed that when you compressed the eye bulge the eye hole compressed on the narrow side of the drift. This leaves space between the sides of the drift and eye. I have seen this often and it has lead to cracks in the “corners” of the eye. I modified my process and seem to have eliminated the cracking. However it is clear that spreading the eye bulge as well as repeated fullering can lead to serious issues with a press. Have you noticed this area of exceeded stresses??
I used a smaller drift at first because I was worried about that happening and it did so once I forged the hammer mostly to the shape I wanted it I drove the larger drift in and it made the eye pretty uniform. I’m sure I still have room to improve and it was my first time making a hammer like this so I’m sure when I make a few more I’ll get everything sorted out
Firstly, I am 61 6'3" 265 and fully ambidextrous which makes me a forging animal - except for the 61 part -hence my desire to shift to a press. I "discovered" this when I shifted from a striker to my press. The phenomenon can lead to sharp corners in the eye. In my case, I was wanting John Wayne to run the press and make a hammer in minutes. I compounded this by making multiple hammers at once. I think I fell into the notion that I could forge on with abandon. This is not the case, at least for me. I have done pretty much as you describe. Working my way up with the drift as opposed to all at once. I make mostly traditional fullered rounding hammers and the fullering out of the cheeks made the cracking - or actually work splitting - worse. All of this coupled with too aggressive use of the press gave me fits for a few days. I never had these eye hole issues with a hammer made by hand/power hammer. I'll keep watching you keep hammering! THANKS!
Beautiful! Can't wait to see you use this hammer to make a blade! That press works nicely to avoid splitting and the round wedge topped it off...Sweet!
Thanks Kyle!! yeah it seems to work great so far and I love the round wedges you sent me I’m going to be using those from now on!
Absolutely beautiful.
Now That’s 1 Beautiful Piece of Functional Art!!
Thank you!!
Very nice! Loved the soundtrack and editing too great work
Thanks glad you like it!
Nice job Paul.
Thank you!!
your hydraulic press worked great, nice job
Thanks!!
Loved the hammer Paul, u definitely have hit the ground running with ur craft and the production of the videos, one of my favourite channels mate thank you, John👍🏴
A thing of beauty.
Thank you!!
Good lookin' hammer...nice job
Thanks!!
Thanks for sharing! Looks very good!
Thank you!! I really appreciate it!
Nice love it
Thank you! I appreciate it!
Nice job mate, that press works good.
Thanks!
Awesome work!
Thank you!!
Dude sweet hammer!
Thank you! Glad you like it!
Impressive workmanship as ever young Paul :)
Thank you!!
Beautiful work man👍
Thanks!! I appreciate it
Nice one
Thanks!
Paul you have demonstrated a goos workmanship and Awesome work. Question what type of tool steel did you used for the hammer, thank you and have a nice day.
Thank you! And I use 1045
Nice work . I have 2 commentaire first can you right the kind of material (ex.1045..) and the size you use? Second wend you use a draw knife tried to cut not just in pulling but go aside to like wend you cut à tomato. Sorry for m'y sentense form im french 😉😉 continue ton bon travaille.
Thank you! And thanks for the advice with the draw knife and also I’m using 4140 steel.
hi from german blacksmith. if its 1045 you can safe a lot time in quenching. gues you never had ablacksmith teaching you? just harden the working tip in water and let it temper itself by the remaining heat in the core. when at straw cool it down complete in the water. done ;) directly move to grind. best regards Carl
It’s 4140 that’s why I quenched it in oil and I feel like I get a more accurate temper in the oven. But I do use the technique you are talking about when I make other tools like hot chisels and punches it definitely saves some time
I am seriously disappointed at the lack of dog-shaped hammers in this video.
Great work on that piece though! I never saw this type of hammer before, but now I want to give it a try
damn your eyes, you are too good! also, some might like to know how long you baked it in the oven and a few other details (type of steel etc), but brilliant work, and well done!
Magnific.....
Thanks!
Nice work Paul. What metal do you use??????
Thanks! Right now I use 4140 but I’m thinking of trying some s7 or s5 pretty soon
OK Thanks. I'll look forward to more videos.
Paul Pinto you should try 1045. Water queches , pretty much all I use for hammers. Brian Brazel's told me there's not much need for any other alloy for hammers.
I did make my leaf work and doming hammers from 4140.
4340 makes a great hammer too.
You’re definitely right I’ve been trying to get my hands on some 1045 but my local tool steel supplier doesn’t carry it they only have alloy steels. But hopefully I’ll get my hands on some soon and I like that you can water quench it too oil is kind of annoying haha
Paul Pinto hey Paul, try to find someone who does hydraulic cylinder repairs. Those cylinder rods are mostly 1045-1050.
They are usually available at scrap prices. When they get bent, scored or scratched deeply.
Brian Brazel's, Lyle Wynn and Stan Bryant use them alot for hammer stock, makes great flatters too.
Try Speedymetals.com
They stock about 1045 bars in round and squares. I order from them when I can't find cylinder stock.
Hi
I just found your vids. Great stuff!!
Did you make your hydraulic presses? Is there video? I can’t have powerhammer so this would be a great alternative!
TIA
Thanks glad you like them! And yeah I made a 3 part series on how I built my press
whats the different purpose of this type of hammer
It’s for knife making, it’s a Japanese style hammer
nice
Essa tempera foi dada em água ou óleo.
Nice work.
What are the advantages of a doghead hammer ? I've seen plenty of bladesmithing vids using them, but I have yet to see one explain the WHY of that design. It seems counterintuitive, because the offcenter mass will create transverse torque in both swing and rebound, so I don't get it. Clearly I am missing something, and I really hate feeling that way.
Roving Punster a dogs head is primarily used for putting bevels and rounding corners on pieces
FINE
👍🏻супер
Bro, you’re close to being in danger! To hammer making addiction! It strikes suddenly then it’s too late. That’s what, ahh, happened to this guy I know.
Haha I know I’m getting obsessed! My hammer rack is starting to fill up
Paul Pinto - serious question: I noticed that when you compressed the eye bulge the eye hole compressed on the narrow side of the drift. This leaves space between the sides of the drift and eye. I have seen this often and it has lead to cracks in the “corners” of the eye. I modified my process and seem to have eliminated the cracking. However it is clear that spreading the eye bulge as well as repeated fullering can lead to serious issues with a press. Have you noticed this area of exceeded stresses??
I used a smaller drift at first because I was worried about that happening and it did so once I forged the hammer mostly to the shape I wanted it I drove the larger drift in and it made the eye pretty uniform. I’m sure I still have room to improve and it was my first time making a hammer like this so I’m sure when I make a few more I’ll get everything sorted out
Firstly, I am 61 6'3" 265 and fully ambidextrous which makes me a forging animal - except for the 61 part -hence my desire to shift to a press. I "discovered" this when I shifted from a striker to my press. The phenomenon can lead to sharp corners in the eye. In my case, I was wanting John Wayne to run the press and make a hammer in minutes. I compounded this by making multiple hammers at once. I think I fell into the notion that I could forge on with abandon. This is not the case, at least for me. I have done pretty much as you describe. Working my way up with the drift as opposed to all at once. I make mostly traditional fullered rounding hammers and the fullering out of the cheeks made the cracking - or actually work splitting - worse. All of this coupled with too aggressive use of the press gave me fits for a few days. I never had these eye hole issues with a hammer made by hand/power hammer. I'll keep watching you keep hammering! THANKS!
Paul Pinto sorry for confusion. Used my office computer to respond. Ebsbull is KillerKane