Learning how to use your Light Meter for film photography.
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- Опубликовано: 16 июн 2024
- Learn how to use your light meter for film photography takes you through the steps of setting up a hand held light meter and using it to get the correct exposure for your photography.
Best light meter tutorial on RUclips I've found so far.
tokyojesus Thanks so much, glad you got some valuable information out of it. More to come.
This is great. one of my mentors drilled this into my head...
B/W: Zone III, underexpose 2 stops. Zone VIII overexpose 3 stops. Stay within the five zone range of Zone III to VIII. Funnily enough he never really explained N+/- developing...
C41: meter for the darks, underexpose 2 stops.
E6: meter for the highlights, overexpose 2 stops.
Thanks, Todd!
You're the GOAT of light meter explanation. (Greatest Of All Time) Incase you didn't know. Thanks.
🙏 really kind thanks!
Thoroughly enjoyable, Todd. Thanks.
Another excellent video. Very helpful. Thank you Todd.
Thanks so much.I just got this meter today and learnt a lot from this lesson.
Thank you for sharing one of the more in-depth explanation about metering I came across. Please share more
great video. Perfectly explained.
This was very helpful. Thanks!
This is an excellant & praticle tutorial. Perfect for my feeble brain.
This was the best well explained light meter tutorial on RUclips! Thank you so much!
Thanks, I am planning a more in-depth one as well, stay tuned.
im in love with this subscribed
brilliant video, very straightforward, good editing, thx m8
Taylor Richardson Thanks for watching!
Dude, the best light meter video ive seen so far. so institutive and straightforward
Hey thanks man!!✌️
I can say with confidence, I just learned to use a light meter. Thanks, and yes, I have subscribed with notifications!
Perfect!!
Thank you Todd Korol ! Very clear easy to understand light exposure video ! I'm starting again film shooting with a 500CM Hasselblad ... I bought a spot light meter, your video helps me a lot to succeed in light exposure. I truly appreciate your channel ... All the best from Madrid Spain !
Fabulous! That makes me very happy, thank you!! Happy shooting.
This was such a good video. I have a l-558. I wondered with the Gary card could you use it as a reference for colour balancing later if the light is the same on the subject?
Thanks a lot! One of the best videos I've seen about the subject. Regards from Brazil.
Great to hear thanks for watching.
Pleaseeee don't stop making videos like this. Thanks a lot!
Thank you so much, more stuff on it's way!!!
Good presentation. That meter has been my favorite for years. Very versatile tool.
Thanks, yes it works very well.
Thanks for the reminder tutorial.
Thanks for the info 🦎 Well explained and entertaining.
Thanks ! This really helped.
Very easy to understand! Loved this video tutorial! You've got my subscription!
Many thanks!!
Thank you, great video! )))
Thank you Todd for your very clean and precise lesson in how to meter and do some film photography. You are a very good teacher and you know your subject well and I never blinked for a moment till the end. Hope you do more of this stuff again and wish you well and all the very best with your work. Thanks for sharing your wisdom and passion.
Romuald Hapuarachchi Thank you so much for the kind words. Working on a new video right now.
Very useful video. We totally forgot that with digital cameras!
That’s the best explanation of using a light meter I’ve ever seen. Clear and concise. You have a good no-nonsense style of presentation. Subscribed.
Thank you.
excellent video on using a light meter, i'm just beginning to use a vintage medium format camera so the use of a light meter is going to be absolutely essential, thanks again for all the great videos..... zen billings.
Thank you, and thanks for watching.
this guy is incredible
Thanks for these videos Todd! Large format is a little bit less scary now! :)
Perfect. The whole point. Thanks
Great tutorial! One I will refer back to!
Glad it was helpful!
Very good explanations , I am just getting back into photography now that I have retired and I never did use Digital Cameras, I still had my OM-10. Now I have about 7 SLR's most work but half don't have working meters any more , I do have a GE D-58 light meter that came with the Argus C4 that I inherited from my father-in-law. And I just purchased a Minolta Autocord, that has no meter.
As you can see this was quite a valuable bit of info, I have the gray card already, and I was thinking that roads and parking lots that are a few years old are just about the same shade of gray as the card. This should greatly help me waste less film on bad exposures at only 12 shots per roll with 120 film. I was just diagnosed with ALS so I don't have time for tons of trial and error!
Yes, I use roads and parking lots all the time, unless the new completely black ones. ;-)
Thank you dude. Well done
R. Dennis Crawford Thanks so much for watching! 🙏
Nice video!
Good to see another photographer sharing film photography topics. You mention Ansel and the B&W Zone system. Ansel knew that metering and exposing correctly (proper EI rating) and then controlling the highlights via dev time for N+ (expanded) and N- (contracted) were both connected and worked together. This is a critical relationship that cannot be overlooked and I feel that you glossed over this very key and critical relationship. Knowing where your film responds to light (zone 1) is critical to know the film's true speed (EI) and then by testing and verifying your various development times for N, N+1 N+2, N-1, N-2, etc, you then do in fact have total control over the tonal values in your images because your negative will have those values. I struggled with all of this for years until I learned how to do it properly from Tim Layton. Tim is a champion of analog photography and large format in particular. If you have not tested your film for its true EI rating and relevant development times, I would recommend taking his video workshop. Plus, he is a really nice guy and answers every email I have ever sent him. Cheers and keep making more large format videos!
Thanks indeed you are right and I plan on diving into that in a video in the future. These first videos were really made for friends of mine getting into large format. This was more for getting people started and on the right track, beginners. I think it’s overwhelming for beginners to start if with the whole N plus or minus system. With proper meter reading you can certainly get a very printable negative. But, you are very correct in the expanded testing and then developing for the scene. I also have a short cut of that system that I plan on doing a video of. Stay tuned. Thanks for watching and great contribution. Cheers!!
I don't think that Todd planned to talk about the zone system in this video, even though he mentioned Ansel Adam's. He just giving a rush course for beginners, so they can get started and get a decent negative. This video will help tremendously beginners shooting large format, but also any other formats (35mm, medium formats). Explaining the zone system, will demand a lot of time, and several videos would be necessary to cover decently this vast subject. I really commend Todd for this excellent presentation. Right on the money, clear, concise, complete (for beginners), with simplicity. Ice on the cake, he provided his workload in the field. Very very few renowned photographers share theirs techniques (shut!!secret). I use an identical workflow, I adopted for many years, shooting 35mm with Canon SLR''s or Medium format cameras (6x7, and 6x6). Said that, good that you brought that up. Let's keep film alive.
Great video!
Thank you!
I loved your videos, thank you so much for this video. packed with didactical useful information. can I ask you what is the painting behind you at 2:39 ?
thank you
Todd, thank you for your very helpful instructional video. I have a question about exposing B&W 35mm film: in the segment on metering the wood pile you said to underexpose the dark shades and overexpose the light shad
es of the subject. Then, in the segment on metering the cowboy you suggested increasing exposure (relative to the metered value, of course) for very dark subjects and decreasing exposing for very light subjects (the foggy forest scene). This comes across as a discrepancy except for the "very" adjective. Can you clarify? Thank you. Reginaldo
Thanks best explanation I have seen.
🙏
Great explanation , you are natural born teacher 🙌🙌🙌👏👏👏👏👍🏻
Many thanks!!
videos didactic, very practical and well explained, the bes l have seen, thanks
alberto reyes Thank you and thanks for watching !
This was great, I'm sorry I didn't spot it earlier (dija get that? Spot it earlier, LoL). I'll be looking for your video on metering night exposures.
Thanks! I’m working on one right now about metering in the winter. Should be out next week.
By far the best explanation out there, thank you so much! Quick question: the underexposing for deeper blacks is only for b&w film correct, since color film blacks will get muddy? And I only have my phone as a light meter and my in-build camera meter from my canon ae-1, but I am planning on doing a studio portrait shoot. How can I use my reflective light meters effectively in this case? Would I have to meter the skin tones (or darker areas?) from up close or from where I will be standing when shooting?
Thanks, yes in black and white and with colour positive film underexposing a bit will give you richer blacks. With colour negative film you do have to watch, the blacks can go muddy if you underexpose them too much. When you say studio shoot, are you using flashes for the shoot or natural light?
Thank you so much for replying/helping! I will be using a red and white backdrop and only 2 softboxes and some natural light. No flash
I'm enjoying what you have done so far I look forward to more content. Sub'ed :)
Raevenswood Thanks, more coming soon!!
Truly enjoyed seeing the images you shared in that video. +1 point for the Pentax 67 also 🙂. Your explanations about how you will move the shadows or highlights for B&W sounded to me like a simplified approach to the zone system. Am I correct?
Yes it sure is, simplified but effective. I will drive deeper into the zone system with developing and the works a little later. Thanks so much for watching!! Love the Pentax too!
nice stuff! what is the angle of the spot meter you use, 10 degrees?
thank you!
Thanks 🙏🏻 more straff🙏🏻
Thanks Todd, this is the first video on metering that didn't piss me off. I very much enjoy your videos and will probably no longer watch anyone else's. Your presentation is always is inspiring.
I know what you mean, thanks for the kind words!
@@toddkorolphoto My first 4x5 arrives tomorrow, so I'm ready for all the information you're able to share. Thanks again.
@@robertayling4375 Great news! Can’t wait to see some photos.
@@toddkorolphoto Are you wearing a 67ii?
@@robertayling4375 just a regular Pentax 6x7
Another great video Todd. Is there any specific meter model you would recommend, or is your current model all you need? I will do some research on it this week. Cheers,
Meters are limited now. But these Sekonics are great.
Enjoying your videos a lot, Todd, looking forward to more. Do you think someone can get by shooting medium/large format with just an incident meter? Spot meters are $$$
Yes for sure, just make sure you’re aware of where you are metering and what part of your subject you want exposed properly. If you want to see into the shadows we’ll make sure that’s where you meter. If you want to highlights exposed well, expose for them and just,eat the shadows go darker. But for sure you can just use a regular meter ;-)
when pushing iso up a stop from 160 to 80, do you just set ur camera to iso 80 while using films in iso160 or do you set the lightmeter to 80 and use the setting on camera with iso 160?
Really good explanation! One question, why using a reflective meter on a gray card if you've already got a incident meter?
Yes but it was an example for using your camera with a grey card, and the grey card lets you visualize where and how the light is hitting your subject and how to meter off of it. A lot of people always just point their incident meter right at the sun, that can throw your exposure off. This was meant to have the grey card where your subject it and be a bit more accurate. Just another way to meter, or another tool in your tool box. 😉
Could you please talk about development on 4x5? you explain things extremely well. thank you.
Actually looking at doing one and developing film really soon, probably start on that next week, stay tuned!
@@toddkorolphoto by the way, best channel ever. Glad I’ve found you
Damn with all the bullet hole in the signs (:39) I'd think I was in Eastern Montana - Some people are bored and don't have much to do. Question - is your Linhof a Supertechnica IV or a V? Enjoyed your video, quite well done.
Mine is a Linhof Super Technika V
Todd, would you recommend using a handheld meter rather than the camera’s meter in most situations?
Well for film cameras I always use a meter and rely on those settings. New digital cameras are pretty much right on the money. Thanks for watching!
Hey man! When you take the reading from the grey card, you take the reading from where the light will be reading the subject right, but do you have to take another reading for shadows? and average them? I saw you taking 2 readings with the grey card. Or with only taking one reading where the light is hitting the grey card you'll have a average reading?
Alex Forestier Yes you can do that, also think of it in terms of what do you want exposed properly. If you want to see into the shadows then hold the grey card in the shadows and use that meter reading. If you just care about the highlights and you are not concerned about the shadows then meter there. And yes, to get an average meter reading that is a perfect way to meter, meter once for the shadows then once for the highlights and average them, and that will be a great exposure!!
Todd Korol awesome man! Thank you for your help!
Very useful tips Todd
Black subject underexpose
White subject overexpose
How to spot meter on this situation
When a couple in wedding are
Black and white?
How to average ?
Thanks
Surely Todd, taking an incidental light reading is the same as taking a Grey Card reading?
Yes and no. It really depends on where you place the grey card and how you take the incident reading. Also, with taking a grey card reading, it’s easier to visualize where you want to place it in the zone system, if you want to make it lighter or darker and exactly how the sun is hitting it. I plan on doing a more in-depth meter reading video soon.
I am now getting into film photography and I need help in understanding how to meter for film, so if the box speed is 400 to overexpose the film in the camera should I set the ISO in the camera to 800 ISO, or on the light meter.
No the other way. To overexpose the film you would set the meter to 200 iso. If you set it to 800 iso you would be underexposing it, and would loose detail in your shadows.
@@toddkorolphoto in developing should.we tell lab +1 or process om box speed?
That you have to ask the question tells me that you need to get a book explaining photographic (film) exposure in detail. You are not going to get a working knowledge of the subject from a ten minute YT video, and most of the videos are total bullshit anyway. This one is correct in more respects, but he doesn't tell you why you do what he says, so you do not understand how to use it. As to your question: The ISO or film speed number tells you how sensitive the film is to light. A 400 speed film is twice as sensitive as a 200 speed film. The 400 speed film will yield the same negative image "density" as the 200 ISO film, but since it is twice as fast, it requires only half the exposure. If you expose the 400 speed film the same as the 200 speed film, it will be over exposed. Similarly, if you set a metering speed of 800, the meter will tell you that the correct exposure is half that of a 400 speed setting. To understand this, all you have to do is set your meter at 400, take a reading, then reset your film speed to 200 or 800 and check how the recommended exposure changes on the meter. OH, and knock of that "half box speed crap. If you don't understand how to set up to read and make an accurate exposure in the first place, why would you be playing around with setting non-standard film speeds and exposures? Learn how to do it right, then play around.
A photon, is a photon, is a photo. And a light meter, is a light meter, is a light meter.
Measuring light is the same for each medium. But whether or not you take your measurements seriously is the dividing line between film and digital.
There's always a slightly bigger fudge factor with film. But it can often be much more difficult to recover from mistakes with film. Film is forgiving - but don't push it.
Hey, I know it's an old video, but what type are on-camera meters like Leicameter? Are they just spotmeters?
Mostly incident meters.
@@toddkorolphoto thanks Todd, I appreciate the reply!
Bassboy!
Hehehe so absorbed with meter reading that your tripod would fly away!!!!
Luís Conde lucky I caught it too!!
A light meter in a way is like a slide rule, the accuracy of the results depends on the skill of the operator.
100%!!!
You said at one point that when using 160 ISO film, you overexpose it by setting your camera ISO at 80? I would expect you overexpose it by setting it at 320? 80 is slower film, no? I'm confused with that part.
Think of it this way. Say you are shooting 200 iso film, and the correct exposure is 1/250 @ F/16. If you changed the exposure to 1/125 @ F/16 then that would let in one stop more of light, you would be over exposing your image by one stop. So, a little trick I do is this. If I am using 200 iso film, and my exposure is 1/250 @ F/16 with a meter reading, then if I change my iso to 100, it would change the meter reading to 1/125 @ F/16 hence, over exposing the image by one stop. Hope that helps.
@@toddkorolphoto Thank you so much for that explanation, Todd. I understand it now. Thank you 🙏 Very happy I discovered your channel.
@@kennethravelo you’re welcome. Thanks for watching.
How are you developing the film when you meter like this. Are you developing normally or are you pulling the development time..?
If you're pulling your development time how do you decide how much time you need to pull it?
How is it over exposing by one stop when 160 is rated as 80
If you have an incidental light meter you don't need a Grey Card because they both do the same thing.
They will do the same thing, if the indecent meter has the light falling on it like the grey card. The grey card is just another tool in your tool box. But, I do like a grey card for a few things. One, is teaching, or when you are just learning and especially shooting black and white. When you can see what a grey card should look like, and even do a test exposure with the grey card in it, you can really judge how your system of exposure and development are working. (I plan on going a lot more in depth on this in a future video.) Also I find it can be easier for people starting out to hold a grey card just like your subject in standing, or having the light fall on it like it is on your subject, and take a spot meter reading off of that. I have seen many times people holding an indecent meter wrong when they are using it. And again, it's also easier to visualize if the subject should be grey, or if you should alter your exposure to make it go darker or lighter. Again, just another tool to use.
I don’t understand how 9 people would thumbs down this vid. So petty lol
What can you do, just trying to give people the tools to make them a better photographer. 🤷🏻♂️
Sorry I am stupid and not good in english. Why if I want overexposure I need to lower iso from 160 to 80 and not to 320 ? If I lower iso I thought it makes film darker
If you lower the ISO you will be letting more light hit the film, which will make the photograph lighter.
@@toddkorolphoto I think my mistake was that I thought how digital cameras work instead of film cameras. Thanks a lot !
I didn't realise that this particular spot meter doesn't have any in-viewfinder display, so you have to keep taking the meter away from your eye to see the reading. I guess this doesn't bother you though?
I actually like it better. I don’t want any distractions in my viewfinder.
You got it the wrong way round, @ 7:50 Sec you said to meter a dark subject you have to increase the exposure 1-1.5 stops, that should be decrease your exposure 1-1.5 stops, otherwise your blacks will be grey, same goes for the whites, you have to increase your exposure not decrease, ie add exposure for whites & subtract exposure for your blacks, that goes just for using a spot meter
I will have a look and see if I got them the wrong way around, sorry about that, thanks.
Was this or the video accurate?