An e-bike with a potential of 80 miles on a charge? Wow! The LONGEST pedal-bike ride I ever take is roughly 112 miles, so this bike is a must-try for anyone on the island of O'ahu! I hope I won't need a driver's license to run this; I let my useless license expire ages ago... I also adore this MGA conversion! Just watching you have and use the proper TOOLS to do the job is poetry! Nothing janky to see here. Finally...I love watching your dog visiting you "on the set." Very heartwarming! Hau'oli la hanau, pup-pup! Much aloha to all of you!
Another great video! Troubleshooting is always the longest part of any project, even though it never seems that way. Getting it right is what I like most about your work, and I think is what makes this channel so interesting, because you take us through the process start to finish.I hope your contact can shed some light on things. Looking forward to the next video.
Nice! For welding upside down, I have found it easier to do hard spot welds and stack them. Should be ok for non-structural parts. I should have you come out to CO and wire my McLaren! 🤣
For troubleshooting failed precharge, I would start by disconnecting HV accessories. Sometimes these accessories like DC-DC, heaters, chargers, AC compressors, etc. try to start operating and consuming power while precharge is in progress, causing the precharge sequence to fail. As for the isolation resistance issue, if you are seeing 0.1G ohm that's 100 Meg ohms, 100,000,000 ohms. Searching the internet, a large EV OEM opens it's contactors on an isolation fault of 7.5Kohms/V of battery voltage (assuming 400V pack). So if your pack voltage was 120V, that would be 900K ohms (0.9M), and you are measuring 100M correct? The more stuff you plug in, the lower your isolation resistance will measure. Also, be mindful of what voltage level you are injecting into the system to check isolation resistance. Isolation meters usually have voltage ranges of 100, 250, 500, 1,000, 2,500 or 5,000V. Don't exceed the voltage range that the component manufacturer recommends to test at. If you can't find that info, then a rule of thumb would be no more than 2X rated voltage, so for a 120V system, that would be 250V. Too high of a test voltage could damage components in the HV system.
Ah. my mistake, I watched the video again. Indeed measured 100K not 100M. 100K would be cause for concern, as at 144V that would be (144/100000) 1.4mA of leakage current. The HV battery seems to measure good, so with the HV battery disconnected, measure the isolation resistance of the HVJB again, both + to chassis and - to chassis but with a regular ohm meter, not an isolation tester. 100K is well within the capabilities of a regular ohm meter measurement. A regular ohm meter will use LOW voltage to measure the resistance. Having resistance measurements from both types of meters will tell you if you have a constant resistance to ground, or one that only breaks down under high voltage. Sometimes that info can be helpful. Also, if the vehicle isolation monitoring is done in the HVJB and not the battery BMS, an active isolation monitoring system can cause low isolation readings. Try disconnecting low voltage from the HVJB and test again if that's the case. I know if you have the in vehicle isolation monitoring enabled while you try to DC fast charge, the DC fast charger will fault on an isolation fault because the DC fast charger has it's own isolation monitoring system. Only 1 monitoring system can be enabled at a time. Barring that, you might be stuck tearing the HVJB apart and testing the individual components inside.
Grats in getting this far, here's hoping you get the troubleshooting sorted out quick and get it running. in regards to your sponsored items being to obvious, I prefer and appreciate knowing when something is or at least was originally a sponsored item, the fact that you keep using it is the praise that it's decent enough to keep using. no need to be subtle, then it just looks like your trying to be sneaky about it.
I like the narrative breaks and thought product placement was appropriate. It's a sponsor link i will click on after watching the video. As for the content, great as always. Good comment above about being mindful of rated voltage when using isolation tester. Look forward to more (or hopefully for you less) troubleshooting!
For that low voltage isolator ground connection, my first thought was cover it with some liquid electrical tape? It is a rubberized coating that you can brush on that will prevent a short if something touches it, but you should still be able to unscrew that screw if you need to.
Hey Jeremy, your videos are great. Keep it up! You are doing a great job troubleshooting those electrical gremlins and showing your process. I also like that you are using the correct HV rated tools and PPE 👏. On that isolation loss issue, when the HVPDU is disconnected, did you confirm that there is an isolation loss between the HV terminals and case? If so, then I would look for a short to ground near one of the HV connectors inside the HVPDU. It could be a single loose copper strand from an HV cables or some chafed insulation in there. I know you will figure it out soon and I’m looking forward to the resolution in a future video.
I love seeing all the trouble shooting. Most videos just show a build and everything magically works. This is far more real world. You seem to run into a bunch of issues with parts failing from the factory. That would annoy me greatly. You've got far more patience than me.
Oh you're so close! Tomorrow I should get a passing grade on my technical inspection to finish the import of my 914 into Spain. Fingers crossed for both of us!
Good job on raising the battery box!, and good to know the wires weren't in the permanent place. They look meh close, maybe a crossbar or some sort of metal cover for the wires would be a good idea incase the suspension shifts. Also, is there any short to ground from the wires themselves?, you have good resistance to ground without wiring, and bad resistance with wiring... any part of the wires being grounded or going to another module that has ground?, or some other potentially damaged wires? Just a thought. Encouragement: Always a good day to watch your video updates!!! Keep up the good work!, I notice you have a rather robust attitude about possible setbacks or challenges - as you already know that is priceless, especially when doing something on your own.
Maybe you mixed up a couple of wires either in the loom or in the box electronics when connecting the plugs? No shorts, are you sure the electronics are functioning correctly? Missing wire? Maybe tear everything out and try connecting the whole lot without the car in the way? Makes inspecting stuff a lot easier.....
I vote for a full review of the e-bike jerry rig style ;) open that puppy up, motor, batteries etc...those chinese e-bikes tend to caught fire while charging anyway :)
I'm super glad you're showing all the gory details of building with a project someone else designed and yet another person started. TBH, it makes the conversion process look like hell. I'm hoping I can do a similar conversion to our 56 MGA in a few years with less individual wiring/crimping/spaghetti plumbing. That's not a knock, it's just an overwhelming number of places for something to go wrong even after it's run in. I appreciate you're doing a great job with a system that has split packs and lots of discrete parts in the design.
Ask himiway if they ship to Japan! Everyone here has electric bikes, literally everyone. I don’t think I saw a single one in the US before I moved here.
The DC to only is used for the 12-volt battery, I understand that it drops the voltage down to 12 volts but does the DC to DC converter do anything else?
Your sponsor plugs look a little too obvious. Most RUclipsrs I watch are more subtle. Try having the bike in the background of where you would actually be working and positioned where it seems to belong. It can be in the frame but shouldn't look so planned. 😊
Get Himiway D5 ebike here:
$60 OFF discount code: 60ES
himiwaybike.com/ElectricSuperCar
Every day I check for the next video in these series - could literally watch this all day.
More to come!
For real !! 💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽
Cant wait for the next update on the Porsche.
Coming soon!
You make really great videos, maybe is because you're a good person. Thanks for letting us see a bit of your life.
I appreciate that!
To me, this would be the scariest part of any build
very true
Your patience is amazing! Looking forward to next video
Thank you!
lol I'd be cursing every other minute
It's alive!! Can't wait to see this one moving. Let's hope the junction box doesn't need to be redone.
An e-bike with a potential of 80 miles on a charge? Wow! The LONGEST pedal-bike ride I ever take is roughly 112 miles, so this bike is a must-try for anyone on the island of O'ahu! I hope I won't need a driver's license to run this; I let my useless license expire ages ago...
I also adore this MGA conversion! Just watching you have and use the proper TOOLS to do the job is poetry! Nothing janky to see here.
Finally...I love watching your dog visiting you "on the set." Very heartwarming! Hau'oli la hanau, pup-pup! Much aloha to all of you!
Thanks Friend!
Another great video! Troubleshooting is always the longest part of any project, even though it never seems that way. Getting it right is what I like most about your work, and I think is what makes this channel so interesting, because you take us through the process start to finish.I hope your contact can shed some light on things. Looking forward to the next video.
Thanks for the comment!
Nice! For welding upside down, I have found it easier to do hard spot welds and stack them. Should be ok for non-structural parts. I should have you come out to CO and wire my McLaren! 🤣
Let's do it!
The mystical controllers and CAN are to me the most daunting part of doing everything yourself. Hope they can help you.
For troubleshooting failed precharge, I would start by disconnecting HV accessories. Sometimes these accessories like DC-DC, heaters, chargers, AC compressors, etc. try to start operating and consuming power while precharge is in progress, causing the precharge sequence to fail.
As for the isolation resistance issue, if you are seeing 0.1G ohm that's 100 Meg ohms, 100,000,000 ohms. Searching the internet, a large EV OEM opens it's contactors on an isolation fault of 7.5Kohms/V of battery voltage (assuming 400V pack). So if your pack voltage was 120V, that would be 900K ohms (0.9M), and you are measuring 100M correct? The more stuff you plug in, the lower your isolation resistance will measure. Also, be mindful of what voltage level you are injecting into the system to check isolation resistance. Isolation meters usually have voltage ranges of 100, 250, 500, 1,000, 2,500 or 5,000V. Don't exceed the voltage range that the component manufacturer recommends to test at. If you can't find that info, then a rule of thumb would be no more than 2X rated voltage, so for a 120V system, that would be 250V. Too high of a test voltage could damage components in the HV system.
The low resistance he measures was 0.1 megaohm, not giga. 26:58
0.1 mega ohms. 144V pack
Ah. my mistake, I watched the video again. Indeed measured 100K not 100M. 100K would be cause for concern, as at 144V that would be (144/100000) 1.4mA of leakage current. The HV battery seems to measure good, so with the HV battery disconnected, measure the isolation resistance of the HVJB again, both + to chassis and - to chassis but with a regular ohm meter, not an isolation tester.
100K is well within the capabilities of a regular ohm meter measurement. A regular ohm meter will use LOW voltage to measure the resistance.
Having resistance measurements from both types of meters will tell you if you have a constant resistance to ground, or one that only breaks down under high voltage. Sometimes that info can be helpful.
Also, if the vehicle isolation monitoring is done in the HVJB and not the battery BMS, an active isolation monitoring system can cause low isolation readings. Try disconnecting low voltage from the HVJB and test again if that's the case. I know if you have the in vehicle isolation monitoring enabled while you try to DC fast charge, the DC fast charger will fault on an isolation fault because the DC fast charger has it's own isolation monitoring system. Only 1 monitoring system can be enabled at a time.
Barring that, you might be stuck tearing the HVJB apart and testing the individual components inside.
Grats in getting this far, here's hoping you get the troubleshooting sorted out quick and get it running.
in regards to your sponsored items being to obvious, I prefer and appreciate knowing when something is or at least was originally a sponsored item, the fact that you keep using it is the praise that it's decent enough to keep using.
no need to be subtle, then it just looks like your trying to be sneaky about it.
Noted
Nice work!
Thank you! Cheers!
Great trouble work! Never give up! persistent never fails 👍🏻
Thanks 👍
I like the narrative breaks and thought product placement was appropriate. It's a sponsor link i will click on after watching the video. As for the content, great as always. Good comment above about being mindful of rated voltage when using isolation tester. Look forward to more (or hopefully for you less) troubleshooting!
Thanks for the comment!
Himiway is a great companion to the MGA electric.
For that low voltage isolator ground connection, my first thought was cover it with some liquid electrical tape? It is a rubberized coating that you can brush on that will prevent a short if something touches it, but you should still be able to unscrew that screw if you need to.
Good call
Nice diagnostics work!!
Thanks!
Awesome and outstanding.Thanks for sharing and taking us along
Glad you enjoyed it
You reached the "best" part of every big project: Integration Hell!
You got that right!
Hey Jeremy, your videos are great. Keep it up! You are doing a great job troubleshooting those electrical gremlins and showing your process. I also like that you are using the correct HV rated tools and PPE 👏. On that isolation loss issue, when the HVPDU is disconnected, did you confirm that there is an isolation loss between the HV terminals and case? If so, then I would look for a short to ground near one of the HV connectors inside the HVPDU. It could be a single loose copper strand from an HV cables or some chafed insulation in there. I know you will figure it out soon and I’m looking forward to the resolution in a future video.
Good call! I'll check
dogie! nice work on this MG btw.
Thanks Friend!
I love seeing all the trouble shooting. Most videos just show a build and everything magically works. This is far more real world.
You seem to run into a bunch of issues with parts failing from the factory. That would annoy me greatly. You've got far more patience than me.
Thanks for the comment!
Oh you're so close! Tomorrow I should get a passing grade on my technical inspection to finish the import of my 914 into Spain. Fingers crossed for both of us!
🤞
Should make an “MG E” badge for this car
Great video Jeremy ! Love the edits ! Cant wait to see this on the roads !
You and me both!
You are doing great work. You should partner with Out of Spec Renew to do an interview and boost your audience.
Done and Done!
ruclips.net/video/EmIE3PS2SPk/видео.htmlsi=o7Hi2de9qX6EGbQY
Nice job, hope you figure it all out.
That's the plan!
Good job on raising the battery box!, and good to know the wires weren't in the permanent place. They look meh close, maybe a crossbar or some sort of metal cover for the wires would be a good idea incase the suspension shifts.
Also, is there any short to ground from the wires themselves?, you have good resistance to ground without wiring, and bad resistance with wiring... any part of the wires being grounded or going to another module that has ground?, or some other potentially damaged wires?
Just a thought.
Encouragement:
Always a good day to watch your video updates!!! Keep up the good work!, I notice you have a rather robust attitude about possible setbacks or challenges - as you already know that is priceless, especially when doing something on your own.
Thanks for the encouragement!
Maybe you mixed up a couple of wires either in the loom or in the box electronics when connecting the plugs? No shorts, are you sure the electronics are functioning correctly? Missing wire?
Maybe tear everything out and try connecting the whole lot without the car in the way? Makes inspecting stuff a lot easier.....
I have some leads to investigate
I vote for a full review of the e-bike jerry rig style ;) open that puppy up, motor, batteries etc...those chinese e-bikes tend to caught fire while charging anyway :)
You might be the only one. Most people on my channel don't tune in unless there is some car build content.
@@ElectricSuperCar a collab with Seth bike hacks?
Wow I mean a inspiration
Thanks Friend!
28:35 Could also be the connectors themselves.
Good call
WOW, well done, sir🎉
Thank you! Cheers!
I'm super glad you're showing all the gory details of building with a project someone else designed and yet another person started. TBH, it makes the conversion process look like hell. I'm hoping I can do a similar conversion to our 56 MGA in a few years with less individual wiring/crimping/spaghetti plumbing. That's not a knock, it's just an overwhelming number of places for something to go wrong even after it's run in. I appreciate you're doing a great job with a system that has split packs and lots of discrete parts in the design.
Good luck!
sweet electric ride, MG is nice too :D
Indeed it is!
so good
Thanks Friend!
Ask himiway if they ship to Japan! Everyone here has electric bikes, literally everyone. I don’t think I saw a single one in the US before I moved here.
interesting
Comment for the algorithm! ❤
👍
The DC to only is used for the 12-volt battery, I understand that it drops the voltage down to 12 volts but does the DC to DC converter do anything else?
Pretty much just converts the high voltage (~150V) to 12V to keep the low voltage stuff charged when the system is on
@@ElectricSuperCar do you charge those jh 3 batteries when you get them or do you just wait until you install them in the car and charge them then?
Great job, love watching.. Your isolation cut off switch has interesting mounting box. Do you know where to purchase. ??
I designed and 3D printed it
What lift are you using for the battery box? Looks very nice.
Harbor Freight Special!
Nice bike. Do most sponsors let you keep the product or do you have to ship them back?
All depends
The dog is fine ... just keep talking.
👍
I'm confused. Why is there a lead acid battery in the mix?
Cheaper and more reliable than lithium. 12v power is still required for car 12v systems and also needed to initialize the high voltage systems.
@@JaiLeeroy Ok. I can see that. Just seemed old school, heavy and larger than necessary, given space constraints.
I think you can't charge a 100% battery 😊
Algo
✌️
⚡ 🏎 👌👍 🏎 ⚡
✌️
.
👋👍
✌️
Send me your cycle i don’t have money to buy😢
Not too sure about that bike company... they're obviously biased in sending him away.... what if we wanna send her away? :)
on the HVJB, is the disconnect a fused type or just a busbar inside? wondering if there's an issue in the safety disconnect
Pretty dog.
He is the best!
I suspect there is a leak in the HV. Check the HV cable runs.
Will do!
Your sponsor plugs look a little too obvious. Most RUclipsrs I watch are more subtle. Try having the bike in the background of where you would actually be working and positioned where it seems to belong. It can be in the frame but shouldn't look so planned. 😊
Noted
the constant shilling and cutting to the sponsored bike was incredibly jarring and annoying.
You never watched free TV before?😅
Exactly