NordMende Elektra 58 Restoration & Selenium Rectifier Part 2
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- Опубликовано: 9 апр 2020
- With the radio working it needs an alignment to get better performance from the AM and FM. That selenium rectifier needs to go but I need to compensate for the extra voltage.
Carl's Capacitors eBay store: www.ebay.com.au/str/vintageco...
Music: www.bensound.com - www.epidemicsound.com 
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David, Your resistor/capacitor rework was amazing your perfectionism does you justice.
When I see your icon come up on my PC I know that I'm going to learn something as well as being entertained, Thank You
Hi Mack thank you, you are too kind 😀
Never apologize for something you haven't learned yet. You do great work.
Hi Phil, at least I was smart enough to know I didn't know what I was doing 😄 Cheers
Love the Cap+Resistor solution, well done.
Hi Bruce, thank you, I wasn't sure how that was going to work out 🙂
@Thunder Kunt The two components are wrapped in foil and the foil is grouded to the radio chassis, the foil inhibits stray frequencies being picked up by those components and drains them to ground.
I agree, very slick solution.
@@DavidTipton101 I especially like the design of the paper wrap. Ernst Roederstein (founder of ero capacitors) would be proud ;)
Nice replacement cap+resistor. Nice touch with the retro paper wrap.
I was going to mark it with what was inside it but got carried away Lennart 🙄😀
Since 1990 I have not made LW-MW antenna tuning, oscillator tuning. I have not seen anyone doing this. The past came alive. Your capacitor and resistor solutions were great. It was a video like a lesson. It is forbidden to go out in our country right now. We have to stay at home. I wish you to stay healthy.
Hi Mustafa, thank you. We are also locked down as well although some shops are still open as well as the food stores. Hopefully this will all be over soon and we can rebuild 👍🙂
I was fascinated watching this. Very well done: the rectifier, the 10nF/10Mohm, the tuning, ....
And I was also glad to see Hilversum in the centre of the MW scale. Because that is where I live 😊
It also nice to see and hear contributions from all over the globe. United Fans 😎
Hi Plons0Nard, thank you. Hilversum is near Amsterdam, we visited there a few years back. There is a radio museum somewhere near you but I missed out on seeing it. I am amazed with the support I get from people from around the world and it's just me fixing old radios, I never imagined 🙂
It took a lot of knowledge and patience to get things right. Good example of studying your schematic of a radio or you will miss something!
Glad Dirk from Belgium caught what would have been a really bad error there David!
Hi he's the Master, this is a step out of my comfort zone, and a whole new way of thinking in radio design. It was great Dirk pointed out the resistor and now I know what to look for on the schematic. The schematic for this is on a sheet of A3 paper, it's in German and is still too small to read without a magnifying glass, Aussie radios easily fit on a sheet of A4 😄
some good tips and clever fixes in this video, makes being stuck indoors much more bearable
Hi Paul, it sux being stuck inside but happy I can provide a little relief, cheers 😀
What a beautiful job you did on that capacitor/resistor combo. It looked so great, just like the original. Very nice work on the alignment too David. You do such wonderful work sir.
Hi again Gregg, that cap/resistor combo nearly got past me, thanks to Dirk for picking that up. The finished result does highlight that you can make realistic reproduction components if you needed to. Thanks for your comment Gregg 👍😀
It's so nice that you can get useful stuff from the comments. Obviously not from me, as I haven't got a clue about radios, but Dirk from Belgium is a star.
Dirk is my hero 🌟 I have since seen another video with a different brand German radio and it had the same cap/resistor setup, the guy wrapped the two replacement components separately as his solution. I guess as you gain more experience with different build philosophies it becomes a bit easier... I hope 😀
Thanks David I am enjoying this restoration it is a complex one.
Hi Alan, you bet, complex, frustrating but always interesting, plus I'm learning some German on the side, Danke Alan 😀
Conversation in my house with wife go: What's that noise? It's David Tipton aligning his radio. Who is David Tipton, is that youtube again, can you watch it upstairs please! :) Enjoyed every minute.
Ha-ha, I can just imagine Paul, thanks 😄
Funny you should zoom into the dial where Droitwich was visible, I can see the masts from our back widow! Enjoying the videos. Take care stay safe..
I did that for your benefit scask 😊 Stay safe in Droitwich 👍🙂
Another really interesting episode David. To the ignorant could you please explain why you had to get rid of the selenium rectifier. I loved the work you did with the capacitor/resistor set-up... you always seem to come up with unique ways of fixing these sorts of items and it always looks so professional. With the lock-down here in NZ I have been searching for stuff to watch so it was great to find another item from you. As usual I'm looking forward to the next episode.
Hi Kenneth, thank you. I probably didn't need to get rid of the selenium rectifier but they do tend to build up resistance over time and overheat. This one had been replaced previously because it had the price in pounds and shillings written on it so it may have had even more life in it. I thought it prudent is all, a bit like changing all the paper capacitors I suppose. I was very happy with the capacitor/resistor, it made me wonder if I could do the reproduction label for other components that need to look authentic. Thanks for watching, keep safe 😀
That making your own parts is awesome! I'm afraid that some day we will no longer have people of your knowledge and be in serious trouble!
Hi Greg, thanks. During the current crisis I have been amazed at local company's churning out respirators, PPE and various other equipment we normally import, this from a country which manufactures very little. I think we still have the skills, hopefully it will carry on into the future 😀
Good engineering on that rectifier circuit
Thanks Cosimo, It worked out well, I get a little worried when I have to use big resisters like that 🙂
@hawkturkey Thanks for that. The reason hum was induced was because I had to pass the AC wires very close to the speaker wires and other sensitive components to access the top of the chassis. The only other way was to drill a new hole or run the wires around the outside of the chassis which I didn't want to do. I twisted the wires to and from the resistors, I think you can see them in the video 👍🙂
No need to apologise Dave,you know a damn sight more than me,another excellent video.
Ha-ha... thanks Mick. I will get there eventually, actually I've picked up a bit more since I made the video so there's hope still 😀
Cap + resistor you made was very clever. Nice job.
Thanks Terry 👍😀
Yet another top class high quality job.
Superb work .
Thank you Stephen 🙂
Greetings, creator, I am talking to you from Algeria, I have borrowed a lot from you and the most important thing I took from you and through these clips is that I clean old devices so that an old car I owned I did not care about much I recently carried out a campaign of cleaning and full care of it I thank you because you sent in the spirit of interest And do not despair of success
Hi Seddas, thank you, nice to hear your old car is looking good again 😀👍
Well done David. Great alignment and very brave with the FM adjustments. Good work on the silicon rectifier. I did a Roberts a while ago with 1 volt tubes so had to be very careful when the selenium came out. Just spent a week trying to get the BFO working on the Hallicrafters. Needed some help and components from forum members to do it but seems to be working now. Looking forward to the next video.
Cheers Lynton
Hi Lynton, thank you, I hope to learn a bit more as I go. Forums are a great help with radio problems and I use them if I get stuck. Really, one volt tubes in a mains set, that's unusual, for me anyway 🤔😀
Hi David the set is a Roberts R66. Battery/ mains. Popular set in its day. I’m sure Google will show you one. Cheers Lynton.
@@lyntonprescott3412 ahh... battery/mains, that makes sense.
I may know where Holland is on the map but your knowledge in electronics is super you have a friend and admirer here in the Old Country Thank You
s
Hi John, thanks 🙂
Excellent video Mr Tipton well done top job top man 🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
Hi Phil, thank you 🦘🦘🦘
Nice job Dave. Those German radios are really very different. If you want to find an LW transmission to check your radio. Google a local airport info ERSA gold coast for example and look for the NDB (non directional beacon) This is 278KHz for gold coast. This is a Morse code transmission.
Keep those vids coming. Great entertainment while we are all confined to barracks.
Hi Bob, Ok I will try that thanks. I do remember picking up Archerfield Airport (I think) automated weather information once with a Bush receiver on LW. Hang in there Bob 😀
Edit: I just tried it and Gold Coast NDB came through right on 278 on the dial. I think it was terminal information I picked up from Archerfield airport
Thank you again David for a wonderful video. After days on end sitting in front of a computer monitoring two 20 channel trunked radio system, its nice to go back to the simpler days.
My pleasure Tim, thank you 😀
I like that the way You constructed that special capacitor with a resistor on it real trick.
Thanks Mark, it came out nicely thank you 👍🙂
Geesh David don't apologize! Great videos. Great entertainment. Be sate in these troubling times and keep fixing those radios! I wish Canada had electronic parts stores.
Ha-ha, thanks for the moral support Andy. Don't you have stores like Radio Shack or similar? I get a bit of stuff from online electronic stores as well, the main online one I use has next day delivery. Keep safe up there in Canada Andy 👍
All the Radio Shacks are gone and nothing replaced them
@@andyreid5543 Oh 😯
Hi Dave, Thanks for another great restore..
Thank you Le 😀
I enjoyed this project very much as I have with all yourprevious ones. I always look forward to my notifications informing me that you have posted another video.
Stay safe and many thanks for entertaining me locked down in France
Thank you tegwyn7 and you are welcome. Stay safe over there in France 👍
Fantastic work on the cap and resistor, what attention to detail.
Hi Mats, thank you 😀
That triangle for remembering which way to do ohms law is great! Never seen that before.
I thought that was standard Alan, I remember it from X years ago when I did my apprenticeship, it must be good 😀
I love your amazing skill of restroration. 😊👍
Thank you Manoj 😀
Coming up quite nice, this one. Very clean job
Cheers.
Thank you scofab 😀
Man findet diese Radios öfter auf Flohmärkten. Diese funktionieren irgendwie aber es ist sehr viel Arbeit sie wieder richtig hin zu bekommen. Was ich sagen wollte, tolle Arbeit 😉
Translated:
One can find more of these radio's in fleemarkets. Most of these function more or less, but it is a lot of work to get these right and working again. What I wanted to say: well done 😉
Danke Johannes 😀
Thank you for the translation Plons0Nard 😀
As allways great part 2
Hi Andy, thank you 😀
That's one interesting radio to be working on and fix look forward to seeing it back together and working better than new.
Thanks Nick, I'm looking forward to seeing it back together too 😀
Lovely video as always, really enjoyed that. Thank you.
You are welcome robbyxp1, thank you 😀
Very nice, I really do appreciate your editing in the meters so we to can see the results. A fine radio to be sure and worthy of your attention, dare I say affections?
Hi Craig, thank you. I haven't quite fallen in love with it yet, I'm still trying to work it out 😄
Re your LSG-11 signal generator: those came from the factory with "death caps" connected from case to the mains cord, and the danger with these is that when they fail you can end up with mains voltage on the case -- hence "death caps". If you haven't already done so, get rid of those either entirely or replace them with Class Y safety caps. (I simply got rid of them in mine).
👍
Thanks will check my one out
Good to know! I've got the same unit but haven't restored it yet
I have the same unit and have replaced mine with safety capacitors. I really like this unit.
I liked very match the solution of cap + resistor, you explain very well about alignment of the tunning circuits.
Great video, your videos are very professional prodution !!!!!!!
I wait next video. Thanks a lot.
Congratulations - Sao Paulo - Brazil
Hi Fernando, thank you, take care 😀
Nice job David.
Thank you tarstarkusz 😀
I've been waiting for this one my friend ! Amazing job! That cap resistor combo was out of left field wasn't it! Very intuitive methodology on that FM adjustment! I look forward to your next project! Stay home! stay safe! and stay healthy! good mentors are hard to come by1
Hi Ronnie, I trust you are safe. Thank you, the cap/resistor combo was a real surprise, I though Dirk was pulling my leg at first. Cheers and all the best as we work through is virus problem 😀
Good morning Dave, got my tea and ready to go!
Hi Dave, nothing better than a cuppa ☕😀
Hi David. Nicely built component for the Cap/resistor package. i think I would have just put them into an old Cap can, but then I am getting lazy these days!
Hi Bob, the package came up nice, pity none will see it 🙄🙂
@@DavidTipton101 Hundreds already have, thanks in part to RUclips. Plus you filmed it, so there you go. Nicely done to if I may add.
@@BoB4jjjjs ha ha, good point Bob 😄
A week ago you uploaded. Looking forward to the next step. I wanted to learn to do what you do. I've made a project or more, but I don't know enough.
Hi clasicradiolover, thanks, the next video should be ready by Friday with a bit of luck 👍🙂
Very impressive overall and specifically addressing the heat production of the resistors with a heat sink. A quick "how to" for me facing a selenium rectifier in the future.
Thanks Hallicrafters Rehabs, I would normally use the chassis as a heatsink but there was a shortage of tenable real estate for that purpose. Another comment suggested using a capacitor as a voltage dropper, I am going to try that out next time. The Comment was from Andrew Pike 🙂
Spot on video keep up the good work Cheers
Thank you Phillip, cheers 😀
Top line job again David ,interesting on the cap with the 10meg resistor well spotted by ur watcher and very nice job indeed on the one you made, didn't know they used that sort in radios, I do know that the microwave oven filter caps have that arrangement .Nice to see the Leader signal generator in the test gear shelf ,hve one of those myself ,Ok enjoyed very much and stay safe in lock down.
Hi Doc, I trust you are safe and well. The cap/resistor thing was a surprise, I thought he was pulling my leg for a while but I know for the future, now they are in microwaves too, that's another thing I've learned. The Leader is in need of an overhaul, I will do that while I'm locked up... I mean down 😀
@@DavidTipton101 Yes thanks all safe so far ,and been getting some workshop jobs done.
Everything you replaced on the chassis was very neatly done and nothing looks out of place. Sounded pretty good on FM. You may say you know nothing about FM alignment but you know more than I do!
It'll be very interesting indeed to hear what it sounds like through it's original speaker in the cabinet. Normende was one of the better makes so I imagine they probably went to some trouble over acoustic performance and used a decent speaker.
Excellent work as usual and a fascinating video. Looking forward to the next one.
Hi Paul, the FM alignment was good to learn, I hope I can build on it as I go along, the FM sounds very good too. I am missing the original speaker but have a replacement speaker that I hope to shoehorn in. The original was a peculiar shape and hard to replace. Thank you for your comment 😀
@@DavidTipton101 Oh yes, I forgot the original speaker was missing. I've been there myself and have had to get creative!
Crazy parts, this cap/resistor. If you have problems to translate german to english, feel free and ask.
Regards from Germany.
Thanks Alfred, I will keep that in mind thank you. It took ages to translate it then rearrange it to make sense. I have to say Google translate is pretty amazing 🙂
@@DavidTipton101 No problem, i'm an electronic technician, i understand the manuals and shematics. Good times for you and yours.
Good to know, thanks Alfred 🙂
@@TheAndy1268 Thanks Andy, happy Easter to you too 🐇
You have very good hands...
Thank you 1212windows 👍😀
Very Good Restoration 😇❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Thank you Edwin 😀
Radio sounds great. That was interesting about the capacitor with a resistor in the same package. I replaced some capacitors that look similar on a Philips BD 284, now I will have to go back and see if I made the same mistake. Nice job making that component, right down to the label. Nice job on the resistor install as well. You do very nice work.
The radio is working very well Phillip. I had a look at your Philips schematic and can't see a cap/resistor combination. there are two shielded caps but that's all. BTW the schematic for the Philips is very clear, my Nordmende was on A3 and I couldn't read it with a magnifying glass 🤦♂️ Thanks, the resistor solution worked well eventually 👍😀
@@DavidTipton101 I've never seen that solution before and I've worked on a few European radios from the second half of the 50s! One had plenty of shielded caps but they were all a bit homebrew, wrapped in soldered copper tubes. I managed to reuse most of those, although I had to enlarge most of them slightly, as the replacement caps were shorter but thicker than the originals. Later examples of the same model (Eumigette by Eumig) skipped the cap shields altogether.
@@Ragnar8504 I wonder if sometimes things are done because "we always do it that way" and are just carried over from the last time. Your non shielded later model being an example.
I am trying to find things I can use that casting material for, it's impressive. The resistor heat sink is clever too. Such neatness. Cheers
I Pauline, I know it's brilliant, I'm looking for things to cast now. I am going to order same moulding silicone so I can do a proper job. Thanks the resistor worked out well, cheers, stay safe Pauline
Hi Dave and Greetings from Germany. I've been a silent Viewer for the past few month now and I'm really enjoying your Videos. If you ever decide to do another German Radio again and would like some help with translating the instructions i would be glad to help out there. Might be easier for a native Speaker of both languages.
Hi Schaltkreis, thank you for your kind offer, I have had a few similar offers from others as well. I will keep your name if I need help in the future, it sure would have been easier than Google translate 😀 Thanks
Resistance and capacitor good fixings
Thanks Rajesh 🙂
The "V" coil is the one mounted on the antenna receptacle board. NIce work on that special Resitacitor :)
Hi Derek, I wondered that but it isn't marked as such and why would an IF blocking circuit be mounted on the antenna? Having said that I adjusted that coil as if it was the 'V' and then for maximum signal and least noise on a weak station but it made little difference with either adjustment 🤔
@@DavidTipton101 2 reasons: stops frequency same as the IF entering the radio from the antenna, and stops the generated IF from radiating via the antenna. Imagine the whole city's radio listeners radiating 460khz at once. You inject the IF signal at the antenna input, Then tune for a minimum.
@@DerekHerbst747 Right, I'll give it another go, I didn't get any change last time, I will test the coil and capacitors associated with it first though. Thanks Derek 👍
David, at 21:30 you talk about an unstable counter, the Victor VC3165. Please check the input print on that thing, behind the two BNC connectors. There's a lot of problems with bad soldered shealding, some even shorting out components. It has (in some series ?) been done by someone without ANY form of experience, and it has crippled a lot of these counters. Mine too. I had to fish solder out, that had been plummeted in front switches and shorted it, and had to replace two chips on that input print, redo the soldering of the shielding, and re-solder a cut capacitor, to get it to work.
B.t.w., on function 3 of the settings the range is below 2 mHz, so you would normally use that for 1.5 mHz, but in your 'broken' situation, maybe for 1.5 mHz it is more usefull on the function 2 (2mHz - 50mHz), which is able to measure a bit below 2 mHz (At least mine is)
Wow, that's a lot of defects. I haven't had any real trouble with mine, I think the issue is the way I have set it up, I need to do some investigating. The problem is only at the higher frequencies and isn't a problem normally, only with some radios. I don't know why it was on this one. I'll check out setting 2 for the higher end of the BC range see if it's any better. Thanks for the information Erik 👍😊
fabo just what i need a wireless video
Thanks Ian, stay safe down there 👍😀
Enjoyed.
Thank you John 😀
I have a Crosley in the shop, I'll be pulling the selenium rectifier today... It's working properly, I want to see if I can extend its usable life via a GOOD disassembly and cleaning; I always add an f.a. pigtail as insurance...
I didn't know they could be disassembled, I still have mine, I'll have a look inside, that's good insurance 👍🙂
Great job, David!
You know what “FM” stands for, don’t you?
Effing Magic! 😎
(Deleted some incorrect info regarding origins of NordMende)
Not quite, the original Radio H. Mende was located in Dresden and taken over by the Soviets in '45. The founder had passed away in 1940 and his son Martin Mende moved the business to Bremen in Northern Germany, renaming the company to Northern German Mende (Norddeutsche Mende).
Ahh.. its amazing what I learn from folks, now I know what FM means 🙂 Thanks for that info on Nordmende, I looked it up but didn't find anything, I probably didn't search properly. I knew Nord was north, thanks for filling in the rest 🙂
Mr Carlson’s Lab have great videos about aligning radio. He have also made great tools to find problems. You should take a peek
Hi Knarf Sreirb, thank you. I watch Paul Carlson all the time. I can't remember if he has done a full FM alignment, I'll have another look 😀
Regarding the resistor dropper you made when you replaced the selenium rectifier. You could consider using a capacitive dropper on the input of the bridge. You would need to establish what resistance you would require in the bridge input to give you the correct voltage output. You can't do this on the output of the bridge rectifier because it needs to be AC. Lets say for example you need 300 ohms.
You would use the formula C = 1 / (2 * pi * F * R) , therefore to substitute for values C = 1 / (2 * 3.1412 * 50 * 300) = 100nF. You would need to check the resistance for yourself as 300 ohms was a guess. The great advantage of a capacitive dropper is not dissipating the heat, having to do it on the AC side is the disadvantage. I would also suggest a Y1 capacitor type be used or at least a 400V DC working ceramic. Also fit a bleed resistor (say 4.7 meg ohms) across the capacitor to ensure the charge is bled away when the power is removed.
That's a good idea Andrew, I will try it next time I need to do this, your comment is printed and saved, thanks 😀
This radio has quite an easy FM alignment setup, this is what is called a valve voltmeter and 10.7MHz generator approach. The main problem is with the FM alignment that you need to keep it at the centre of the 10.7 MHz and not have a sharp, but a flat peak with the both sides equal. So in essence, on many of these radios, if you just adjust the FM IF to the maximum output, you will get poor audio quality or distortion, despite the signal coming out would be very hot. So this is when the oscilloscope and a wobbulator with 10.7 MHz mark comes into play as you can see the the 10.7 MHz on the scope and you can adjust the both halves of the frequency response curve to be something like a "nice hill with a flat top". During this alignment, the 5uF stabilising capacitor in the detector circuit should be disconnected. Last thing is to adjust the ratio detector to make it centered, this is done with the 5uF cap reconnected and by watching the "S" curve on the scope, so the both halves are mirrored. I had to learn all of that as here in Europe, there are almost no AM stations left, so only thing to receive on these old radios is FM (those that have it). Also, the ECC85 valve can sometimes get weak if the radio was mainly used on AM as the heater of the ECC85 is on, but the anode voltage is cut off on AM. This will poison the cathode and make the valve go bad over time. Instead of ECC85, you can also use ECC88 or PCC88 which usually work a little bit better and can be usually obtained much cheaper (being a TV valve).
Hi michvod, I couldn't agree more and I attempted to use the scope to align it but the signal from the generator was very poor. I aligned as per the manufacturer's instructions in the video and the sound is very good and covers the full frequency range so I was content with that. I need to overhaul my generator and see if I can get a good image on the scope. Thanks for all that info, i have printed it and hope it will help my understanding.
@@DavidTipton101 To get a good image, like those in the service data, you would need to use sweep generator, to sweep the bandpass. I think that only the S curve can be observed with just unmodulated 10.7MHz signal. I have an old 1960s Nordmende Service generator, that does AM and FM bands and IFs, and also has marker injection (you connect scope to the sig. gen, and sig. gen to the point of measurement on the circuit, the sig. gen adds the marker on top of the trace). I paid almost €200 for it, but was money well spent. About the rectifiers, I usually don't replace selenium rectifiers, except if it is really weak. I haven't had any issues with them yet, only perhaps a bit lower anode voltage (which only means the valves are not overrun). I think that even back in the 1960s-70s the "official" repair method was to just bridge a silicon diode across the selenium and add a resistor if really needed (if voltages were like +20-30%). The wisdom was that the selenium rectifiers only failed open or with reduced output, so they could be left in circuit. Also, perhaps another note, there is sometimes necessary to add RF bypass capacitors (4.7-10nF) across the silicon rectifier diodes as they can introduce noise into AM because of their high speed turnon/off times. Good luck! ;)
The magic eye on my capacitor checker is much brighter I thinking your should be too,or maybe it's to bright in your room ,your repair is very good ,on the dropping resistor would a piece of aluminum heat work a little better?or it that temp ok. I am still learning .
Hi Ron, I think it is a little dim, it is running a bit low on voltage but it looks perfectly OK in the radio, it might also last a bit longer running it a bit lower voltage. I had the resistors sandwiched between two thick aluminium plates wich overhung the resistors. I could have bolted an additional finned heatsink on the front but it was working very well at that temperature. I normally mount resistors like that directly on the chassis but there was no convenient room on this radio. The resistors I used have a rated temperature range of -55°C ~ +155°C 👍
Een schouderklopje van de meester en een bank vooruit voor Dirk die goed had opgelet!
Ik ben Dirk erg dankbaar dat hij daarop heeft gewezen. Nu weten ik en iedereen waar ik naar moet zoeken 👍🙂
David Tipton Je bent dus niet alleen een uitstekend radiotechnicus, maar je spreekt ook Nederlands. Je bent een fenomeen, Dave!
@@DavidTipton101 Of gebruik zoals wij Google Translate
@@horatiohornblower868 Sorry, ik heb Google Translate gebruikt om te antwoorden. Sorry dat ik je misleid Sam 😟
David Tipton No offence, Dave. I'm still.looking for a Flemish Dave Tipton to overhaul my radio.
Hi Dave. I just stumbled upon your channel about a week ago, and I wanted you to know how much I appreciate the content you have provided. Your channel would have been a fantastic find in normal times, but with the current C-19 quarantine, it has been an especially welcome find.
In watching a lot of your videos in a short amount of time, it was a joy to see your skills develop from the older videos to the more current ones. There were also many wonderful things that remained consistent throughout all the videos. Like your: humility, tenaciousness, humor, and passion.
I hope the work you do on these old instruments brings you as much joy and satisfaction as it seems to in your videos.
One quick question. I looked for a Patreon link or some other way to support your channel, but couldn't find one. Do you have anything set up to allow your viewers to provide support?
Thanks again for all you do.
Kindest regards,
Michael
Hi Michael, that is a very nice comment, thank you. I agree completely that my skills as a radio fix it guy and video production guy have come a long way, those early videos were pretty awful 🤦♂️ I do get a lot of joy from doing this and interacting with the people that watch them. There is quite a void when you finish your working life, I was lucky enough to find something to replace it. A number of people have suggested a Patreon account, maybe I should find out about it although why anyone would want to contribute is beyond me. Thanks Michael, thank care 🙂
Hi David,
Here's a few reasons off the top of my head that someone might want to contribute:
To make sure you have the funds to purchase plenty of old gear. To show appreciation for the many times you've spent way more time on a project detail than a "reasonable person" would have. To feel connected. So you can purchase a few extra 6M5 valves without Mrs. Dave raising her eyebrows at the price!
Something to think about.
Take care,
Michael
@@michaelsmokowicz5244 ok, thanks Michael, I'll give it some thought 🙂
You could possibly use your sig gen to align the VHF section by setting to a high fundamental, then using the harmonics to align, maybe 45-50MHz, or 28-35 for the 3rd harmonic. Not sure how high it goes.
Hi David, My signal generator should be capable of covering the FM spectrum but it doesn't at the moment, it needs some attention. I will service it at some point 🤔🙄
Dirk K: Well spotted Dirk, I would have missed that as well. You must have worked on these radios before?
I suspect it may be a normal thing on these and similar radios, I'm very happy Dirk let me know 😀
Another great video. Have you ever seen the The Australian Toastamatic 2 toaster??
Thanks Thorn, yes I have , that and painted plywood cupboard doors with little air vents in them and lino floors 😀
David, somebody suggested to use car fm transmitter for fm adjustments... Great idea, I think.
Yes, that would work if it has a digital display 👍😀
Hi Dave,
It is good to see someone like you applying a few of the ‘old methods’: such as tape on the IF alignment tool, and the ohms law triangle. It is amazing how many radio restoration enthusiasts are not familiar with those. Also when you calculated watts is another one you applied that served it’s purpose. I usually advise those new to this hobby to memorise the four formulae on the ‘Pire’ wheel.
When you cast the resin substance around the 10meg resistor, was it the same stuff you used to cast the name badge for the ‘beehive’ radio? Could you please remind me what that substance is, and where did you buy it from. I’m thinking here about whether it might also be useful for casting radio knobs.
Cheers my friend, Phil.
Hi Phil. The PIRE wheel is an excellent reference, there is even a phone app for it I found yesterday but still good to commit to memory if you can. The plastic mix I used for the resistor is the same as for the badge, it is called Smooth Cast and I think it would be very good for knobs except I am not sure if the cast material can be coloured, The finished knob may need to be painted. Cheers 🙂
Hey David!
I thought I had figured out something cool...but, well, there goes Murphy again! I did a Google translation thinking that the NordMende was German for "Normandy", but the German for Normandy is Normandie. The "Nord" part appears to be "North", but the Mende doesn't translate. At least not to anything sensible to me. Perhaps you have a German viewer that could shed some light on the issue?
I LOVED your engineering on this set! The manner in which you mounted the Bridge Rectifier, and the mounting of the 10 Watt resistors was shere Genius !
That "Resistor / Capacitor was quite interesting! I had never known about those. I have seen some in the past that simply had a shield over the outside foil and the lead from that shield was connected to ground, but never one with an actual resistor built in. While watching you hold the capacitor and resistor combination, I thought you might be planning to put heat shrink over the combo, but your choice of what to do was brilliant! I don't think I have ever heard of that substance you covered the resistor in. Learn something new every day!
Stay Safe, Stay Strong, Stay Healthy, Stay Happy, And know that you are very much loved and appreciated by many people!
The company's founder was named Hermann Mende. After the war the company had to move west of the Iron Curtain and renamed itself from Mende to Nordmende, as the new HQ was north of the original location. It's short for Norddeutsche Mende (Northern German Mende).
The English Wiki article has a few typos and inaccuracies but it gets the message across:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nordmende
My summary above is based on the German version.
@@Ragnar8504 , Thanks so very much for the information!!! I did read the article...was interesting. I had gotten a translation of "North Mende" but that didn't make sense to me. Your help along with that article made sense of it all. Thank you again!
Hi Wayne, I did the same Googling as you and got the same non answer, thankfully Ragnar8504 has supplied the correct answer. Thank you, the rectifier replacement and resistors was the first time for me so I was happy with the result. The casting material is called Smooth Cast, I got it to make my Kriesler badge for the Beehive, it was ideal for the job. My wife and I are bunkered down and doing OK at the moment, I hope we all get through this in good health, vhjeers 👍🙂
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I guess I'd have left the old rectifier in there until it gave up. Apparently they can last quite some time if they aren't overloaded. I haven't worked on too much equipment that had them, the Austrian radio builders loved their EZ80 rectifier valves.
There seems to be two camps on selenium rectifiers, if it's working leave it or replace at all costs. My wife wants to use this radio as our main radio so I thought it would be prudent to replace it even though it was working perfectly. If it was just going to be a display I wouldn't have bothered. Thanks Ragnar8504
@@DavidTipton101 AFAIK all that happens if they do go wrong is that the output voltage becomes unstable and drops, so it shouldn't hurt anything. On the other hand, if you want to use it on a regular basis I can understand why you'd want it to work without any trouble to be expected in the near future.
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Super, super!!!
Thank you la la 😀😀😀
I am curious - what model is your small signal generator with the lcd touch display? Are you reasonably pleased with its capabilities? I look forward to your projects and learn a lot from your videos.
Hi Mark, the generator is a Silicon Chip project, it cost about $100 to build and is quite good. It has a built in oscilloscope function to allow you to can see the alignment point but I have never got that to work. www.siliconchip.com.au/Issue/2017/April/Micromite+BackPack+Touchscreen+DDS+Signal+Generator?res=nonflash
2nd part wait ends.😊
Ha-ha... thanks Manoj 😀
You might be able to use your sig gen on Fm using harmonics, tune the sig gen to 30mc, then you shgould be able to hear it with the radio tuned to 90mc, third harmonic, this works if the sig gen doesnt put out a pure sinewave, most dont.
That's clever SP, I'll do some experimenting. I am going to service the generator and get the upper frequencies working again so it may be a moot point, thanks 😀
david If you take the tonner out and give it a shake it will work
Thanks ajhnubia, I tried that but it was dead, I ordered a new one and it's all working now 😀
Can you hear any signals on LW?
Hi Christopher, no, nothing on LW here except navigational beacons but I haven't tried very hard to pick them up. I might try at night and see if I can get any, thanks 😀
Hi David. Just searched all your videos and cant find anything about your issolation/variac/Dim bulb setup. Would really love to know the order of the layout and bulb wattage etc along with fuses if any and a circuit diagram.
So many conflicting opinions on the various radio forums
Hi 1974UTuber. I didn't do any videos on the dim bulb or transformers. The layout is: Variac - Isolation Transformer - Dim Bulb Tester. They are in that order so the Variac and Isolation transformer are earthed, there is no earth after the isolation transformer output. The bulb is 40 Watts, it is slightly above the normal wattage for the radios I work on which range from 25 to 40 Watts. I have a 60 Watt globe for radios that have a higher Wattage. The Variac and Isolation transformer have their own fuses. The circuit is straightforward, the bulb is in series with the active side of the line supply, switches are installed to interrupt the power and they are situated before the bulb. You can use a number of bulbs in the tester if you want and switch them in and out to adjust the load, very handy if you don't have a Variac.
@@DavidTipton101 Thanks David. I am just getting into this hobby myself and bought myself a Variac, ISTFR, some gauges and plan to do a dim buld setup with 2 x 40W halogen globes in series because the old style incandescents are getting hard to find. Will have a switch to drop one or both out as required.
I was thinking I should run Variac after the Trans so all equipment on the bench is floating earth and no chance of getting a mains spike across the chest should I put my fingers on the wrong place while also adjusting the variac
I wish I was in QLD right now. This radio is a bargain at $10
www.ebay.com.au/itm/254569815205
@@1974UTuber A lot of my test equipment is grounded. I put them in that order in case the Variac shorts and the case becomes live. I'm really not sure which is the best way.
@@1974UTuber It might go for $10 too, it has no bids so far. The drum dial looks a mess. If I brought that home I would get into trouble. 🙄😄
Don't apologise, FM messes with my head too.
Haha... it's all new to me, thanks Paul 😀
the UK mains supply is usually 240v a/c. Do you know why your supply has been lowered.? Most equipment 50 or so years ago was rated for 250 v a/c.
Although the UK mains tends to be around 240V AC they actually decided to meet the EU requirement for 230V AC. Like Australia National Grid did nothing as they relied of the spec 230V +/-10% (217V to 253V) hence covering the spec.
Hi Andrew, it was a government decision in the 80s to align us with the European standard mainly to make importing of electrical goods easier. The government allowed 20 years for compliance but my understanding is Queensland did nothing as the voltages produced here fell within the new guideline tolerances (+10% -6%) anyway. The standard supply voltage for the UK is 230V as well 🙂
@@DavidTipton101 I forgot to say it is now 230 v +/_ depending on demand. 50 Cls.
“...these 10-watt’s should be ‘ample’ ...” Was that a pun?
ha-ha.. no Bob, I worry about heat, I think I meant they will dissipate the heat better 😀
curious as to why droitwitch is in such exotic company????? what were they broadcasting from the midlands in the 50's🤣🤣
also your radio lady was right--- said mr kane scored one and made one for bayern in the champions league earlier this evening
Haha... thanks Chris 😄
The mains voltage story is that we "harmonized" with the international standard of 230, but with a +10% to -6% tolerance range, so our mains voltage can be from 253 to 216 and still be within the standard. That is, nominally 230 volt equipment used here needs to factor in that range.
That change was back in the 80s, Queensland has never done anything to abide by the new standard as I understand, the new voltages encompassed the existing voltages anyway . Having said that the voltage here is usually between 130 and 145, it tends to be closer to the 130 generally 🙂
@@DavidTipton101 I thought QLD was still on DC (because old Joh thought it was better). 😛
@@DavidTipton101 Nor has the UK apparently. Austria and Germany mostly increased the voltage slightly from the old 230 to stay in the centre of the tolerance band. Italy is an entirely different animal, especially in rural areas - brown-outs are to be expected (dips to well below 200 V). I've seen audio equipment shut down because of under-voltage there in the 90s!
@@James_Bowie No, that was the old QLD, we are getting colour TV next year hopefully 😉
David, Could you send the patent numbers from the rear or underside of the set??, I believe this is a hybrid "Tarzian/Armstrong" set, and the patents will answer questions; look to the thicker copper coils for your answer, people who cause "screwdriver drift", also believe that those coils must be straight, which is erroneous. I returned here after viewing Tasmanian Diplomat "Eric the Legend" winning an argument with his human female counterpart. The Little Corella that handles context better than I. Stay well, and CHEERS!
Hi AMStationEngineer, the set is completed now, I didn't notice any patent numbers anywhere. The back and bottom covers don't have any and the rear of the chassis doesn't either 🙂
When I have a few moments, a brief respite from dealing with COVID; I may have to help a friend take a 71 y/o business into near bankruptcy because of the fact that they now predict eighteen months of rolling closures, and we're going to have to install positive pressure ventilation.
May have been covered under the RIAS plan??? That explains no patent info....
@@AMStationEngineer So many businesses will go under, it's too sad, I'm sorry to hear about your friend
Re FM: start by checking voltages and looking for crook solder joints.
Good morning sir I like video by You Sir I have a Murphy TUO 726 table top radio i need valves for the same and regards AMRIT SINGH amritsinghairindia@gmail.com
+919811810920whatsapp number
👍
Hi Amrit, I cannot find the murphy radio you quoted. It may be an Indian manufactured radio. Unfortunately I don't have the valves that are used in hot chassi sets. You could try eBay or just Google the valves you require. You should be able to find the ones you need 🙂
@@DavidTipton101 respected sir thank you for your response and I have valve numbers
UM80/MAGICEYE
10C1
10F9
UF41
10P14
U404
UC92
Sir if you have these tubes please let me know and regards from amrit Singh
Hi again David - I have a collection of valves left over from my days of restoration - most of them are common types but they may be of use to you - some have lost their lettering and some may not work but if you send me an email address I will list for you - at least the ones I have labels for and if you are still interested I can post to you when the lock-downs are finished
Hi Kenneth, are you in Australia? You can contact me at vintageradioaus (at)gmail.com
Thanks
If you ever happen to get some German stuff again and need translations: Ich bin Ihr Mann (I'm your man :)
I'll remember that an3k, thanks 😀
Google translate allows you to use the camera on your smartphone. No need to type German .
I didn't think of that Landrew0, I know it can do it but I have never tried it, thanks 👍😀
1480 should be 1.48 mhz
err... that's the same thing, it's medium wave so it is usually expressed in kHz 🤔
David can you please give me you email
vintageradioaus(at)gmail.com
2nd part wait ends.😊
You are Number One this week Manoj, congratulations 🏆
@@DavidTipton101 haha haha thanks😊🙏
The mains voltage story is that we "harmonized" with the international standard of 230, but with a +10% to -6% tolerance range, so our mains voltage can be from 253 to 216 and still be within the standard. That is, nominally 230 volt equipment used here needs to factor in that range.
Thanks James 🙂
In the Netherlands, all main land Europe in fact, we used to be at 220V. My Philips oscilloscope blew an RC-filter which resulted in a 1 meter high blanket of thick smoke, from the floor up, in the shack. I smelled it downstairs in the livingroom, the smoke alarns at the ceiling in the shack didn't go off.
So, friends, for older equipment it is something to watch out for. Cheers !
Nard
@@Plons0Nard That cap blew for a different reason, very likely. It's true that most of them were rated at 250 V AC (RMS) but the upper limit of the current 230 are 253 V (as in AZ). Even if the voltage went up to that limit (and I've never experienced that myself), the 3 V (1.2%) over-voltage are unlikely to have destroyed the cap.
The real issue is that most X and Y filter caps for the European market have been RIFA PME 271 or the corresponding WIMA type for decades. They're metallised film and paper caps in a clear epoxy shell. Over time, even in unused spares, the epoxy cracks and at some point the capacitor will go off. Either it fizzles, crackles and smokes or it flat out explodes with a huge bang. Rifa Miniprint capacitors commonly found in stuff like Revox tape decks are essentially the same. I've found them to last anywhere between 20 and 40 years without exploding, but at some point they're done for. If I don't forget, I usually open anything and check for that type of cap before I even plug it in! The smell is horrible!
@@Ragnar8504 Very usefull information, Thank You ! I did not know that. Indeed it was such a filmcap/resistor combo, Rifa IIRC. And it smells awfull indeed. Mystery solved. 👍🤝