If that's a military trailer, we have two different sized king pins. The M915's have a smaller kingpin for our fuel trailers and flatbeds. The M916's have a much larger kingpin for the low boys. It's the only truck we use to tow a lowboy, that low boy pin may be bigger than the jaws will close on. Just an idea.
I never give advice on these channels but it may save someone else from the trouble you had so here's a first for me. 1. When trying to get the axle out, instead of fighting with the little wedges, smack the axle center end with a sledgehammer. It will bounce back and drive the wedges out. 2. Caging the brake chamber should have released the brakes so you may have a different problem with the brakes sticking. 3. Not sure if you did because the video didn't show it but you should have filled the hub "well" with gear lube to make sure the bearings had oil right away. The spinning axle will eventually carry oil out to the end of the axle tube but it may take a bit and that's not good for the bearings. Lastly you should change the axle housing vent. If it's plugged it could build pressure as it warms up driving and force oil past old seals. Thanks Matt for what you do!
Caging the brakes doesn't return yhem to the lowest possible point, you also need to back the s cam off to get the brake pads to the lowest possible point. The drum is wiser than the pads, this leaves a lip around the outside of the drum as it wears.
@@garymurt9112 Yes that lip can be that big that it's almost impossible to take the drum off...found it on a small passenger car, together with rusted solid adjusters, so no chance to loosen the pads, was a nightmare...
Agree with you! All this videos always give me a smile! Genius of mechanic! Great Music! What else....😂 Sorry if i make mistake in my message I post this from France. 😅
My name is Lloyd from B.C. Canada, that’s a neat old Autocar, quite a show piece. I rescued a 63 IHC F-250 from a junk yard and restored it, it had a long nose butterfly hood like your Autocar, with a 290 Cummins with a 5x4 trans. I did some stuff to the 290 and ended up that I could out pull a 400 Cummins going up a steep hill carrying the same weight, they’re a great old engine. I love watching your resto jobs as I used to try and restore every piece of equipment I could find but am too old now,79, and not able to do it anymore. But I can relive those days watching you do your restorations, it’s like I’m right there too. Keep up the good work and God bless!
A couple of things. 1, Great job so far. Trucks looking great. As for the 5th wheel. There are 2 pins holding it to the mount. Take them out and turn the 5th wheel over. You then have access to all the inner workings. Clean and lube well. 2. Wow, don't hit it that hard. You will crack/break your king pin. All the inner workings of the hitch can be removed. Take it apart and clean it well, then lube it. Keep going. You will have that truck on the road in no time.
In addition to what Mike said, there are two king pin sizes. Confirm your pin is correct, some Mil trailers are the larger, some aren't. The "lock" on the jaws acts exactly like an older door striker, there is probably old grease/mud/filth in the locking paw keeping it from activating or the spring is broken. Also, on the inner drum seal. On Dayton style wheels you can pull the axle out and then your tires/wheels/hub/drum can come off with the single bearing nut. They make special wheel jacks to roll them off together, but can easily be accomplished with lubricated PVC pipes and slide the complete assembly. Also, also, wheel/tire over fenders with much shorter rear flaps have become more common because of what happened with yours. As well as slinging rocks from a jobsite on to whatever you pull off that jobsite. After you buy a few windshields for your friends excavators.... you see the cost of the wheel fenders are worth every penny.
I'm thinking that when you prang the pin like that, the load bounces away from the throat of the plate before the claws can close. Easy Does it, man! We had a guy who hooked up like that, and ended up overrunning the 5th wheel. With the pin on the other side of the plate we had an Helluva time getting him separated. Punched a hole in the back of the cab with the air connector block.
I KNEW the truck repairmen were slacking. It takes them three hours to arrive and change a tire, and you got half of a full restoration done in 55 minutes. :) Congrats on the progress.
Matt you are a true man when you can admitt to paying your "stupid tax" when you realize later that you done something the hard way or that you made a mistake. I really like the fact you take your lumps but do not give up and get the job done. Can't wait for the shop build videos.
@@Military-Museum-LP If PA is anything like Ohio those historical plates are only to be used for heading to and from events like car shows etc. and for driving to the shop for maintenance. I tried to get one for my bike (1981 Kawasaki KZ650) and was told if I got pulled over while commuting there would be problems. She didn't elaborate on what type of problems. Seems kinda dumb to me, and looking over the Ohio Revised Code I don't see any consequences listed (fines, etc) for using a historical plated vehicle for whatever I want, although the code does specify they are for shows etc only. I am not an attorney, and I'm definitely not your attorney, so don't take my comment as advice.
My favorite thing about this video is the truck is going back to WORK. I love to see the old machinery used as it was intended, not just going to car shows. Thanks for the video!
Matt, for never doing a wheel seal job on a big truck, you did pretty well. I was a school bus mechanic for 43+ years, so I probably have done literally 100’s of them, a couple pointers, smack the end of the axle after the bolts are out and it will “ bounce “ right out, second, I always used to fill the crater between the two bearings with 80w-90 before I put the hub back on, and then I tipped the whole rear end to the side that I had off so it would send differential grease down the tube and lube the bearings. Nice work. This truck is a beast!
You will get a BIG yes on that extra oil in between the bearings , or take truck and pull up on the rock pile and let the oil run out of the diff into the bearings ! What I did 🤔
@@davidcatlette9697 most of the motor coaches actually had a plug in the axle that you could clock to the top and fill it with oil. Kinda like a planetary
Matt, What Greg said on whacking the axle to bounce the axle and release the wedges. They also make a nifty tool to grab and open the wedges for ease of removal. You got a few trucks with those axle wedges, get the tool to say you time.
I am a current school bus mechanic. I do the same trick of hitting the axle with a hammer to get the cones to pop. Just have to be careful cause they will shoot across the shop
Just amazing that he just gets a license plate, and can drive it in the condition it is in. Here the truck would have to pass an inspection before getting the plates, the truck would have to be tested to see that it brakes enough and evenly, the headlamps needed to be adjusted with proper equipment for it to not blind oncoming motorists, and driving the truck with no trailer, would not be allowed, as long as there are nothing covering the wheels. Also, all of the lamps would have be to either factory lamps, or lamps that has been approved for use on that particular make and model. Also, just adding a "random" trailer attachment like that would definitively be a big no no. :) Also, here trucks have to pass inspections every 12 months to be road legal.
@@JohnDoe-bd5sz i dont think matt is gonna drive it illegal down the road that wont last very long before gets busted.....the truck will get all the required documents and inspections before it hits the road.. 100% matt doesn't screw arund if u have been watchin his videos u would know
hes just proving that he doesnt know what hes doing like he says so many times, but gets the job done anyways and learns how to do it right, trial by fire
Just a friendly tip, Whenever you replace a wheel seal jack up the opposite side of the axle when finished so oil runs back in the hub and you won't run on dry bearings at first. Keep up the good work
My brother was a diesel mechanic in the '70's and '80's and I can remember him working on a lot of the same equipment that we see you working on,Matt. Definitely brings back some good memories of when that truck was new
No. If a construction worker is truly self-employed - is not an employee - and has no employees working for him or her, OSHA has no authority to require that individual to abide by OSHA construction requirements.
This brings back memories of working on my old 92 Peterbilt 379. Sounds and looks so similar in the cab. Even the low air pressure alarm sounded the same
Love it. Do yourself a favor after you get the 5th wheel locks working. When backing under don’t slam the pin. You can actually cause more damage. When working properly just bumping it is all it takes. It’s a rookie thing that I used to see pretty often. Can’t wait to see her the road.
When I was younger a friend was fixing a flat on one of those split rims. The rim popped off and killed the man. My father had a cage built with thick wall pipes. Just in case it ever happened again the men would be safe. After we had the cage no rims ever come loose. But it did make you feel better with the cage
@@Itz_Twiz Yes to a certain point he does but he still hasn’t walked one who you talk to good wrenches . Nobody is above learning and he doesn’t have experience yet but he will in a few more years
When you inevitably have to do the three other oil seals, on the drive axles (and possible on the front axle) look closely on the locking ring, it is not symmetrical, and that is on purpose, if you turn it around, you get a "new" row of holes, right between where they were a second ago. I commend you for repairing something you have never worked on before, and having success at that. I have never worked on a semi axle before, but have worked on a Dana 70 ( 80 ?) so I would work the semi axle, but I have never dared to take a diesel injection pump apart as you have, and I might never dare to. Keep up the great work.
As a former truck driver, I have a suggestion: Mount some blind spot mirrors to those two poles sticking up off the front bumper. Having mirrors there will help immensely with lane changing and, in some cases, backing your rig in tight spots. I'm talking like huge blind spot mirrors, btw.
Super truckers are great at giving out opinions without want or need. After 3 years, I got away from that industry because I couldn't handle a$$hole truckers anymore.
Wish I was 40 years younger to go up there and watch you do your thing. These are wonderful videos, and they show a determination, intelligence and cleverness that makes the USA a great as it is. Thank you Matt!
Matt , on your mudflap problem , first shorten the length so they don't drag on the ground . Second , place pins on both sides of hanger bracket to keep the hanger level to the frame. And, PA tractor license plate are required to be on the front of the truck. Keep up the good work.
Flat rate pays 1.5 and you can make time and then some... 9/16 or 7/16 to back slaks off is gold.. Ohh and we don't use no skidloader to lift em, use your back! Then, the steam cleaner is your friend.
been watching since you started the channel and i love every episode but the number 1 thing that intrigues me the most is the fact that matt does all this work alone! that is simply amazing! now ive been playing with trucks and equipment all my life and let me tell you that none of this is easy! its grunt work everything is heavy and dirty and rusty. one must be very strong physically and very determined to win with these old iron creatures! i have tons on respect for you sir! if more men were like you this world would be a much better place! as for the autocar. that is one of the toughest trucks ever build they last forever and just dont break reminds me of the old pacific trucks! probably related? but not sure? anyway. great video as always youre a great achiever! and thats why we watch your videos! keep on the good work! thank you!
Not very smart, either. Hes gonna end up dropping a piece of equipment on him and noone else is there to help him. The way he uses the lift forks to lift the grader and other equipment is gonna bite him on the qss someday.. He forgets things all the time and ends up figuring it out after the fact.Not a good or safe way to run a shop..
@@grandtheftautotune7715 It sounds like you're completely disappointed and dissatisfied with Matt's methods of doing things..., you are very welcome to quit watching his videos. Otherwise, quit 'cher belly aching and stop being Debbie Downer!
Hey when I first got out of school in the 80's I worked on trucks for 5 years before moving on to cranes. I used to rebuild alot of fifth wheels, I would pop out the pins on flip them over onto a bench and replace everything and had a dummy pin to adjust the latches. That axle seal you were replacing ya cage the brake then back off the S cam. When you set the bearing preload on the axle hub if the locking ring does not line up with the tit slide it off flip it 180 and reinstall and will probably line up the holes on the ring are offset to the tang that is on it.
My grandfather delivered in a Model TT which is in a museum. My dad started driving in 1939 and then an M8 in WWII. He retired in the late 1980s and died in 2012. That whole side of my family were Local 299 teamsters. I went the maternal way and became first a UAW worker then a high school teacher, but I still have diesel in my blood. Love the Autocar.
i dig that old truck! a tip i learned when pulling axle shafts on highway trucks is to hit the outside of the axle right in the center with a few sharp snaps of a sledge. not too hard but its usually enough to pop out those cones and the axle shaft a hair. then you push the axle back in a bit and pull the cones with your fingers.
Matt, love the vid. The Autocar Construcktor is a beast! BTW, you'll need a couple of Diesel Creek flags in the flag mounts up front. I think your channel is the best for resurrecting old iron. Really have to hand it to you for the way you dive into a problem and explain the fix as you repair/replace the problem. Its amzing you have such patience for these projects. Your "hobby" is both inspirational and educational. Keep up the great work.
Check the diameter of the kingpin. I read somewhere that military semi-trailers of that era had larger diameter kingpins. When I had my trucks, when removing the wheel to do brakes I left the tires on. I jacked up the wheel high enough to slide a sheet of oiled thin metal under the tires. after taking off the hub nuts and backing off the slack adjuster I just wiggled the whole assembly and slid it off the hub. That is what I did.
Thanks Matt, great update, Being Ex military we used to run a different sized King Pin to standard road users, check that diameter, also with the older style turntable / 5th wheel the release handle should pull and turn to release the locking mechanism not saying the one you have does that but worth checking instead of pulling it apart , Good luck mate, looking forward to the next Diesel creek upload
Hey Matt, your apportion plate needs to be on front bumper. When you pull a trailer it blocks the plate. This is why you see power units with the registration plate on front bumper. Love your videos
Matt, I'd take the windshield out and seal and repair the rust and any missing metal under the seal, new seal won't last long with a compromised base metal. Love your channel, evertime I watch I gives me the motivation to work on both my '48 Willys pickups.
Matt, I learned a trick to make removing the axle wedge locks easier. Take an old pair of channel locks and grind the top jaw down to almost a knife blade but leave the bottom jaw alone. Remove all the axle nuts and hit the end of the axle shaft, this should bounce it out some. Shove the axle back in and use your new wedge lock tool to open the wedges more and pull them out easy. Hope this helps. I used to work on trucks and tractors in my younger years and still love watching your channel. They probably make a tool for removing those wedge locks but an old truck mechanic showed me how to make one using a old pair of channel locks and now I’m sharing it with you.
Take the pivot bolts out of the fifth wheel plate, flip it over, clean and inspect the underside of the plate. You are probably missing at least one spring. That fifth looks ancient but you still might be able to get a spring kit for it. Also, take that problem very very seriously. The last thing you want is a disconnect.
Matt, one thing I believe you are in desperate need of in almost every video I've watched and that would be an industrial press. I lost count on how many times you could have used one to make the job go easier and faster. Even home projects demand time management. Love your channel, man!
Hey Matt always love your videos got a few tips for ya I'm a diesel mechanic up here in Canada that might help ya out I sees ya figured out about backing off the brakes to remove the hub easier great job brother Tip 1 To remove then cones on the axles put the nuts back on the axle just at the end of the treads then hit the center of the axle hard with a sludge hammer and the vibration from hitting the axle will pop the cones out exactly like the wedges for the spoke wheels ( leaving the nuts on will stop the cones from flying off ) Tip#2 pre lube your inner bearing - little lube on your unitized seal when installing then little lube on the spindle to allow the hub to slide on easy - put the hub half way on to alway you to fill the hub with oil then hub goes on pre lube the outer bearing befor installing - install hub Torque the inner nut to 250 lbs spin the hub 1 full rotation Torque again to 250 and repeat a 3rd time, then back off the nut 1 full turn Then Torque to 50lbs do not rotate the hub wile torqu8ng this 50 lbs the back off 1/4 turn and that should be good Tip 3 the lock ring has the tab and holes on it -if the dowel is 1/2 way in the hole of the lock ring ,flip the ring over it is designed that it will line up 1/2 a hole length from one side of the ring to the other Then last Torque the outer nut to 250lbs
Nice work Matt! The straight exhaust pipe probably added $5000 value to the old truck! Before you go anywhere you need to give the truck a good tilt towards the side with the seal that you replaced to make sure the bearing is lubricated well.
As soon as you started wriggling the hub I said to my phone "he hasn't backed the brakes off" Not because I'm smarter, just because I've done it. More than once. I didn't get the puller out but. That was next level!
From working years in the field, a tip. When doing brakes and wheel seals, etc, Yes, cage the brake first. Do not take the wheels off, leave on the hub as an assembly, pop the axle shaft in the center to remove the split cone washers. If not using a crane or lifting device, Lift the truck enough to put a small sheet of plywood twice the width of the dual under the wheels. (You wont need plywood if working on concrete.) Now, On a piece of cardboard, twice the width of the dual wheels also, put a thin layer of grease, set the truck down until just touching the cardboard, remove the lock nuts, then with the wheels just resting on the card board, you should be able to pull the wheel assembly off, sliding on the grease. A pressure washer works great to remove all the oil, dirt etc. Then when assembling, you may need a bit more grease on the cardboard, slowly line up the spindle to not damage the seal, push the assembly back on. The etc, reassemble.
I was going to suggest that idea kinda... except we used a piece of sheet alum (cause we had it, old trailer side) and put motor oil on it...lol. If you do enough, ya figure the easy way. ~ U&R Express inc.~
Tip, if the seal has a spring that is used for tension , pack the seal with grease so when you "persuade" the seal back on, that the spring wont pop out . Once grease, diff fluid, or brake fluid has soaked into brake pads or shoes no matter how clean them , once they get hot, the matter will come out and cause a lock up of that wheel. Replace only.
If you ain't makin mistakes you ain't lernin. There will always be mistakes the first time you do anything. My truck has the same type of wheels and I struggled for 4 hours trying to get one wheel off the hub that was stuck. I got on the internet and a guy said just give it one wack with a hammer on the top spoke, and the dang thang came right off in 1 second. Thanks for the great video, from watching you, I can now change the seals on my truck if they ever start leaking.
Matt, you really need to weld up at least 2 truck stands for that thing. That lil bottle jack can lift the weight, but your safety req's a wee bit more support. Stay safe man, we really enjoy watching you struggle every week to complete projects the rest of us would most likely fail at. You're doing a great job at the videos too, you've come a long way and it shows. Cheers for the weekly content.
He's very careful not to get under it and usually does support it. Pretty sure he lifted the grader and worked next to it instead of moving it with dozer just to troll us up a bit.
Yep. Leave the nuts on a couple turns to catch the keepers so they don't go into LEO and give it a couple good heavy whacks right dead center. Pops out every time.
Matt, I’ve been changing all the lights on my equipment to LED’s. I’m sick of blown bulbs and they’re not over priced anymore. Also, it would be better to mount those tail lights inside the frame rails to protect them , just a suggestion. Nice job resurrecting that Autocar.
There are a few applications where you can't use LEDs. Either they don't draw enough current to make the circuit work, or they light is directed differently than an incandescent. I have encountered both of those scenarios. I like LEDs, but unfortunately, you can't use them everywhere. In a few cases, the gains aren't worth the trouble. Yes, those lights should be inside the frame rails. They will NOT last out there. Ask me how I know.
If this truck passes a DOT safety inspection you’ll be a very lucky person! I was in trucking for 30 years and I’m retired and I don’t want no part of your headaches. Good luck! Remove the fifth wheel and The mechanism. There’s also a pen that you can buy to put in there just to help release the jars.
Just remember when you hook up the winch, you can add gin poles and use the truck as a lift as well. Also, sorry about the problems with the fifth wheel. Nice content, Matt. Thanks a lot.
There should be some kind of lock ring between the 2 nuts. Nut ring with holes to lock inside nut then maybe a washer with tabs to end over one of theflats on the outside nut. You are so right about loosing the slack adjuster before removing the drum. Keep up the good work, I enjoy and am a little jealous of all your toys. Love equipment.
To save on mud flaps, get another set of brackets and mount them in front of the front drive axle. You don’t need mud flaps if you’re pulling a trailer, and if you’re working off road, it doesn’t matter if you have them or not. Move the mud flaps from the rear brackets to the front brackets any time except for when you are running bobtail on the highway.
Great video Matt. Just a suggestion from an old trucker is to spray down the underside with some diesel fuel. It works into the old grease & loosens stuff up. We always used 1202 during the winter time on the 5th wheel because the grease would freeze up running here in northern Ontario.
I heard you honk the air horn, your electric "City" horn has to work also. The wipers have to work on all speeds it has, (if electric) and if it has washers, they have to work also! Don't forget about reflectors also! Go to the DMV and get a book that tells you all the requirements for the DOT inspection! Air brake leak down test, and warning buzzer and light have to come on a 60 PSI. I cut my teeth driving a 71 Diamond Reo, and a few old Autocars, great trucks to learn on back in the day! That shot of looking out over that big ol hood, brought back many memory's of a time long ago past! Thanks Matt!
If I can add to your valuable suggestion; at 39:30, service air hose near the fitting show some surface ''abrasion'' and for some DMV/DOT it is enough to ground you until repair. Be well ;-)
Back in 96 I was driving in 85 Peterbilt and the muffler exploded It almost caused me to have an accident because it sounded just like a bomb went off and all this black smoke and debris filled the cab craziest damn thing I ever witnessed.. those tag fees actually all tag fees are ridiculous.. You definitely need to fix that one eyeball I used to know where so many autocars sat but sadly they are all gone.
Only those of us of a certain age can fully appreciate the history of this old truck, thank you for keeping it as original as possible. This video was a joy to watch!
My favorite video of yours yet! I LOVE seeing these old classic pieces of iron having the work done to get them back on the road and doing the job they were built to do. And putting a flapper cap on the exhaust stack... *chef's kiss*
Matt leave the tires on the hub ,put a flat piece of steel under the lower the jack down where it almost touches pour some oil on the plate and you can slide it on the slick steel right off the truck. After you release the brakes. Give it a try it works been doing this for years. Love your videos
Back when I was a truck mechanic to do wheel seals we left the wheels, hub and brake drum all together and simply removed the hub nut and pulled the whole thing as one big assembly. You could do wheel seals in about 10 mins if you got really good at them with no need for retourqes or dealing with the god awful spoke wheel wedges.
Had to laugh on a video or so back when you were struggling in the metal (gravel) with your floor jack and I was thinking - "man I bet there isn't going to be a day too soon for your new workshop", to where I had hardly thought it and you said virtually the same thing! Haha, hopefully that day isn't too far away - you deserve it! PS. Hopefully you share the build of it too Matt.
Been watching your content for quite awhile now and absolutely love your channel. Your so down to earth And funny. Keep up the good work . I always want to see what you come up with each week, Cheers!
Could see the grader being in the way of the axel removal. Fill rear ends to plug level and let excess drain out. Don't stop and quickly install level plug while oil is draining from filler hole. That's over filling. Nice choice of cab lights. Pull the fifth wheel off at the pins and flip it over and take the jaws apart and clean them. Rust will be your problem , as usual with old iron. You can by a rebuild kit for them if necessary which includes a new spring. Cut old spring with torch, if you do a rebuild, and it is much easier for disassembly. Hope I've been of some help. Another great video! Thanks!
Matt, I grew up watching and following what my father did. He always used Kerosene to wash his car parts, you could reuse it till it was really dirty. I have never seen any American mechanics use kerosene. An old jam tin and a paintbrush.
You’ve worked your ass off doing those jobs in this heat. Some of them major. No need to lose it on the rubber wheel mats. What I see sometimes is a thin metal bar in front of the mat near it so that it can’t curl up to your wheel and get pulled under. Just an idea. I look forward to learning how a 5th wheel works!!
Matt!!! The bushings and return springs are usually the problem with newer 5th wheels. To diagnose that we use bungee cords pulling the handle inwards and if it locks after that we change the return springs.
I’ll give you a tip. When you’re doing an axle seal and you go to pull the axle out of the hub, take about a 5 lb sledge hammer and hit the axle right in the middle pretty hard, and it should pop right out. When you hit it from the back in a small area with a pick, you could risk messing the flange up
Leave the nuts holding the axle on the studs. If you take the nuts off the studs and you're a little rusty with a sledgehammer and you hit a stud you will have a problem. Probably won't get a nut started on the stud because it's mushroomed from the hammer. If it's bent or really mushroomed the axle won't come out. Leave the nuts till the axle is loose. Bunch of oil will need to be captured.
To add to both of these comments; rather than dicking around pulling the wedges, run the nuts out, put em back on a few threads, then tap the center like stated. It'll free all the wedges and crack everything else loose. Saves a bunch of time.
i drove a big rig tow truckfor 10 years and 99% i had to pull axle shaft and i agree with both but just one smallcomment to add a 10# sluge anda good full swing or ttwo makes it go alot faster
I have always been a strong supporter Matt with words of "Doing good" that sort.... I spent most of my life doing just what you are trying to learn so please take this under advisement. You did your wheel bearing install wrong. Never wash a bearing and put it back in without it soaking in a pan of oil as I used to do kinda ahead of time... if time is pushed, at least coat this bearing in oil heavy as it will get oil from its diff alright but not soon enough. Next, since the bearing used just the lock ring center when trying to find its pin, You can take that washer/locking ring and just flip it over to see which is the closest to fitting the adjuster pin lock... it doesn't always go first try but its gonna take some of that slack out. Next your not using a fold over washer/ring so after its on the ring to hold it, I think you did a "wow" thats tight! Good reason as I seen you bend down on the ratchet wrench and call it good... not even close as it heats up will back right off of there so go back and at least torque it to around two hundred foot pounds or a pipe on the wrench you used and get it tight tight! As for the other you did great, I never went past center of my tires with the flaps as they just find a pinch and off they come like when backing out... the rubber you cut off now can make some gaskets or what ever but your not done doing flaps till shorter. AS a final note, yes it costs there to register your rig... its about a fourth of here in alaska and its every six months
Well said sir, as for the wheel bearings Not only would I have done some oil I think I would have squirted some grease into them at least partially because it'll turn into oil eventually, that would have given the bearings a better chance. Some other thoughts, One seal dies, do the other 3 or you will chase them for the next 3 months. Stop the rust on the cab! The flaps may stick out to far. Easy to snag stuff Should it smoke that much without a load? good comments thank you so much! Bob
Was waiting for replies on his axle removal. Arend you supposed to hit the axle dead center with a sledge to loosen it? I think all the nuts need torque to spec as note above. I think the brake shoes are junk. As they see heat the oil will come out.
@@thewayidoit8895 Absolutely, I felt bad just calling him on a bearing that is going to fail sooner than it should, thats if the wheel doesn't just walk off of the spindle. Yes nail the head of the axle to jar it loose, then remove. That shoe set has enough oil to burn it down as it will catch fire this way when holding a load back on some hill. Short stops not so much.... I just figure with the stress cracks in that drum showing, it should all been replaced.
@@morgansword One more thing is how easily the seal can be damaged just hanging the hub on the Differential (I won't even touch driving it in with a dirty block of wood). I prefer to be lucky instead of good so hopefully Matt got away with another one here.
11:12 Should be replaced. The oil will have permeated deep into the friction lining. AT BEST they're simply not gonna grab as hard as the others, at worst you'll get a brake fire.
@@petrhoward Hope you never work on anything more substantial than an RC car. Brakes are NOT to be fucked with. Oil soaked brake shoes are about as bad as simply not having any shoes at all. I don't want to look in my mirror in a traffic jam and see a truck barreling towards me with 4/6 tractor brakes working because the other two have oil soaked shoes. Would you?
@@gheinrich13 Hope you never work on anything more substantial than an RC car. Brakes are NOT to be fucked with. Oil soaked brake shoes are about as bad as simply not having any shoes at all. I don't want to look in my mirror in a traffic jam and see a truck barreling towards me with 4/6 tractor brakes working because the other two have oil soaked shoes. Would you?
If it's not one thing, it's another! Just love watching you solve one thing after another. It will get there, and people will be impressed on the road.
Even though these bearings will get oil, I would have put a thin coating if axle grease on them and the races before re-installing them. We had an old Diamond T with a Buda diesel and it hauled rock during the building of the LBJ around Dallas/Ft. Worth. Had to replace a broken axle-I can *still* feel your pain! My *absolute worst* gravel-pit repair was an old IH with a huge gas engine and cable dump. During a lift the cable slipped and it dropped so hard that that one broke an axle. It must have stressed the two-speed gear collar, as we found pieces of it when we pulled the axle. Had to drop the godawful-heavy rear right there in the side of the pit road, replace the two-speed gear, lift the rear end back up and re-engage it with the housing bolts. Naturally, the new paper gasket tore, so we put layer upon layer of cotton string around the housing bolts, each layer bedded in axle grease, one layer piled on the next, then tightened up the housing. This actually worked-didn’t leak a a drop and the truck was repaired. Three days!
👍👍👍👍👍 This is one of the best videos you have posted so far. I love seeing what you do with the old equipment to bring them back to life. For all younger people can see what it was like back before all this stuff now. Keep it up and stay safe have fun.
For future reference, a sharp rap with a hammer on top of the axle flange will pop those tapers right out of their seats. As mentioned before there are 2 sized king pins on the 172 trailer. and the color is Omaha orange.
Progress is progress, regardless of how far or short of distance you make it. It's always good to get something useful after sitting around and collecting rust.
You're doing a fantastic job getting the Auto car back on the road! Can't wait for the next video,when you can go cruising with that trailer!! Keep up the amazing work Matt!!
That's one of coolest autocars I've ever seen,I know it's alot of work but we'll worth it ,I don't think anyone will mess with ya out there driveing that tractor.take care.
Who would think one would need a “Fat Alice” to remove an axle. Another Matt’s Miracle. Thanks for the ride. Boy… sure would be nice to work in a SHOP with a concrete floor. Keep them videos coming. Enjoy every one.
Great video, Matt! So glad to see the Autocar "Construcktor" getting ready to be roadworthy! Thanks! I just wondered about the rear placement of the license plate. Because of pulling trailers and such, any plate for a truck over 18k goes on the front of the tractor. And Missouri only gives you one plate.
Yes that's true. In most states that require front and rear plates they only give you one plate for a road tractor. It goes on the front. But I have seen tractors with plates on front and back I guess it depends on the state. I was thinking maybe that thing had not been previously registered as a road tractor. But he did say he was licensed for 80,000 pounds, can't get that much weight on three axles so he would have to pull a trailer to reach 80,000 pounds. And the plates he's got will only allow him to operate in Pennsylvania. Unless he has apportioned plates that has the States you operate in listed on the registration you have to get a permit from any other state you want to go to. Then there's the IFTA stickers. Same thing. It lists the states you want to operate in so they can collect their fuel taxes. Pennsylvania may have different laws if you list it as being used on a farm, but you still won't be able to leave Pennsylvania without permits. Was working for a private not for hire company when they came out with the apportioned plates in the 70s. The officer at the weigh station in Winterhaven California educated me about it. If I remember correctly he gave me a break on the ticket but I did have to buy a temporary permit before I could continue.
@@robgm6926 The US has a crazy system lol- here in Australia- any registered vehicle can go anywhere- all states have 'travel rights'... if its registered, it can go anywhere... Although a 'ratrod'/vintage semi is quite acceptable (as long as it meets mechanical standards- a lot of those airlines for example would be an automatic fail)- the smokescreen wouldn't be, in any state here... need to clean that stack up lol (oh, and here- its front and rear plates- all states, all vehicles- except motorbikes- they get to run rear only)
@@steved2136 The States' license plate strictures do not bar crossing State lines, just in the requirements for how the registration is mounted. Texas issues, and requires 2 plates, front and back. Louisiana only requires the rear plate (but can require a "Commercial" plate to be visible if a trailer is fitted. Matt will also need to display his Pennsylvania DoT and US DoT registration numbers painted on the the sides, too--once he acquires those after Inspection..
@@steved2136 the apportioned plates are only for commercial vehicles over a certain registered gross vehicle weight. Private personal use vehicles can travel anywhere with their home state registration. It's just another way the states make money off of trucks. A portion of the registration fee goes to each state you run in. Even though Matt's truck is private not for hire, it's size and registered gross vehicle weight means he still has to comply with some of the rules that apply to all commercial vehicles. I really don't know which rules will apply to him, but he'll find out as he goes along.
I'm waiting to see the engine your going to put in her and all the repair stuff on your list with this orange autocar. I love all your videos they come at the right time for me first thing in the morning with coffee on the weekends.
Morning Matt, I always liked them old A-cars, wait till you get the blue one going, what we used to do was take a piece of sheet metal, lube it up, slide the tires, rim & brake drum off all at once, those two washer looking circles on the axle flange? Those are sledge hammer flats, wack the flange a couple times, it will knock those axle wedges right out...worked great!!! Be safe!!! God Bless!!
Our shop keeps no greater than 5 10.00-20's(spoken as 10 20, never heard ten-hundred 20) at a time. Very few trucks come through needing them, and the only reliable customer that asks for them is rail companies like Norfolk Southern. Every few months we'll get one request from a driver with a chassis trailer that needs them, and if they're lucky enough we'll have some pre-assembled lying around. We no longer mount and dismount them for safety reasons. We ship them off to another one of our locations and they exchange our old ones for their new ones.
Was kinda kringing when i saw you take the lug nuts off without making sure the wedges were loose. Those have enough force to bust a knee when they break loose. Also having worked as a truck mechanic i can smell that job! Haha
Wow! Everything is just so HUGE on a truck that size - 4" socket, OMG! First time I knew anything about wedge-locks. That's what I like about your videos, Matt, I always learn something new, even if it's only how much effort it takes to deal with heavy equipment. You've got really good lighting in your outdoor shop, excellent for working with. Those are some beautiful, wooded lanes you were driving down! Nice country! "Nothing is ever easy," is a self-perpetuating belief - you need to change your mindset. Sorry about the fifth wheel not working, but you did a bang-up job getting that truck roadworthy!
You are obviously setting this truck up the way you want it and that is admirable that you are getting it complwtwly legal for use on the highways. Just a thought of my own here though, IF and WHEN you have a tire disintegrate it will likely take a tail light with it.
Matt I’m torn between a restoration or no restoration stopping the surface rust and leaving it the way she is. I just don’t get tired of seeing this truck! But now after seeing the pretty serious rust on the cab roof that’s going need attention soon.
When I used to do these in the field if I didn’t have my crane around I used to put down a as piece of plywood put a tarp on it and a little dawn dish soap and water then slide that under the tires. Then lower the Jack till the tires are just supporting themselves on the tarp and slide the whole assembly off and you can roll it to the pressure washer
This is very sentimental to me ! Awesome job so far ! When I was around 10 in the early 90s I remember an old tandem dump truck grandpa had, most were international S series or Ford L9000 but this was a 73 White konstuctor , with the 555 Cummins and a Allison auto. At 12 I was stockpiling on-site. Great memories!
Hopefully this will work,I've had those locks jam open a few times on a few old beaters our company owned. Back your truck up until the king-pin is all the way into the fifth wheel,make sure you are pushing against the king-pin,set your brake so the truck doesn't move, you have to have that pressure against the king-pin. Try pushing and pulling on your release handle, try using a "Southern Screw Driver" (aka a hammer) and knock the hell out of it a few times. A lot of the double couplers have a cam plate attached to the release handle,they have an angled slot ( \ ) with a pin in it,sometimes they rust up and the pin jams in that slot.
Even though I don't work on this gear for a living, I learn some great problem-solving skills from Matt on every video. Please don't ever edit out the mistakes and please keep talking to us about how you solve problems.
I LOVE your two old AUTOCARS ! (but may be a bit biased) I am amazed at your level of patience and have to say your are brilliant at problem solving, then fixing, all while explaining concisely on video. Major props Matt !
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
If that's a military trailer, we have two different sized king pins. The M915's have a smaller kingpin for our fuel trailers and flatbeds. The M916's have a much larger kingpin for the low boys. It's the only truck we use to tow a lowboy, that low boy pin may be bigger than the jaws will close on. Just an idea.
Oh, that is a consideration I hadn't thought of since I've never been in the military. Using different king pin sizes seems pretty terrible.
@@kmg501 there are reasons for the different sizes considering the military has many pieces of large equipment to haul.
Love the old Autocar!
Great video Matt!
Thanks!
I agree 100% with Ryan. I think they sell a Go No Go gauge for king pins as well. They use it to check wear and tolerances on the king pin and jaws
Never heard of such a thing. Would never have considered it as the problem. Different size pin sounds like a very bad idea to me.
I never give advice on these channels but it may save someone else from the trouble you had so here's a first for me. 1. When trying to get the axle out, instead of fighting with the little wedges, smack the axle center end with a sledgehammer. It will bounce back and drive the wedges out. 2. Caging the brake chamber should have released the brakes so you may have a different problem with the brakes sticking. 3. Not sure if you did because the video didn't show it but you should have filled the hub "well" with gear lube to make sure the bearings had oil right away. The spinning axle will eventually carry oil out to the end of the axle tube but it may take a bit and that's not good for the bearings. Lastly you should change the axle housing vent. If it's plugged it could build pressure as it warms up driving and force oil past old seals. Thanks Matt for what you do!
Art is right. Caging should have backed brake off you have a problem with chamber or s-cam.
Caging the brakes doesn't return yhem to the lowest possible point, you also need to back the s cam off to get the brake pads to the lowest possible point. The drum is wiser than the pads, this leaves a lip around the outside of the drum as it wears.
@@garymurt9112 Yes that lip can be that big that it's almost impossible to take the drum off...found it on a small passenger car, together with rusted solid adjusters, so no chance to loosen the pads, was a nightmare...
100% on that hitting the axle in the middle will free up the wedges and release the axle
I agree 100%
I can't believe I spend an hour watching these videos and it seems like 15 minutes. It's like some kind of therapy.
Agree with you! All this videos always give me a smile! Genius of mechanic! Great Music! What else....😂 Sorry if i make mistake in my message I post this from France. 😅
I watched and I don't know a damn thing about trucks.
My name is Lloyd from B.C. Canada, that’s a neat old Autocar, quite a show piece. I rescued a 63 IHC F-250 from a junk yard and restored it, it had a long nose butterfly hood like your Autocar, with a 290 Cummins with a 5x4 trans. I did some stuff to the 290 and ended up that I could out pull a 400 Cummins going up a steep hill carrying the same weight, they’re a great old engine. I love watching your resto jobs as I used to try and restore every piece of equipment I could find but am too old now,79, and not able to do it anymore. But I can relive those days watching you do your restorations, it’s like I’m right there too. Keep up the good work and God bless!
A couple of things. 1, Great job so far. Trucks looking great. As for the 5th wheel. There are 2 pins holding it to the mount. Take them out and turn the 5th wheel over. You then have access to all the inner workings. Clean and lube well. 2. Wow, don't hit it that hard. You will crack/break your king pin. All the inner workings of the hitch can be removed. Take it apart and clean it well, then lube it. Keep going. You will have that truck on the road in no time.
Just checking someone pointed out your point 2 because holy moley I almost booked plane tickets to PA so I could go smack him on te cheek for that.
In addition to what Mike said, there are two king pin sizes. Confirm your pin is correct, some Mil trailers are the larger, some aren't. The "lock" on the jaws acts exactly like an older door striker, there is probably old grease/mud/filth in the locking paw keeping it from activating or the spring is broken.
Also, on the inner drum seal. On Dayton style wheels you can pull the axle out and then your tires/wheels/hub/drum can come off with the single bearing nut. They make special wheel jacks to roll them off together, but can easily be accomplished with lubricated PVC pipes and slide the complete assembly.
Also, also, wheel/tire over fenders with much shorter rear flaps have become more common because of what happened with yours. As well as slinging rocks from a jobsite on to whatever you pull off that jobsite. After you buy a few windshields for your friends excavators.... you see the cost of the wheel fenders are worth every penny.
@@MrAPCProductions yeah we used greased plywood to slide the wheel tire drum assy off as one unit...that rig is epic
@@MrAPCProductions glad you said something about the fenders. I puckered when I saw those standard mud flaps go on.
I'm thinking that when you prang the pin like that, the load bounces away from the throat of the plate before the claws can close. Easy Does it, man! We had a guy who hooked up like that, and ended up overrunning the 5th wheel. With the pin on the other side of the plate we had an Helluva time getting him separated. Punched a hole in the back of the cab with the air connector block.
I KNEW the truck repairmen were slacking. It takes them three hours to arrive and change a tire, and you got half of a full restoration done in 55 minutes. :) Congrats on the progress.
Matt you are a true man when you can admitt to paying your "stupid tax" when you realize later that you done something the hard way or that you made a mistake. I really like the fact you take your lumps but do not give up and get the job done. Can't wait for the shop build videos.
Matt can you register it as an antique vehicle and still use it to work limited?
@@Military-Museum-LP If PA is anything like Ohio those historical plates are only to be used for heading to and from events like car shows etc. and for driving to the shop for maintenance. I tried to get one for my bike (1981 Kawasaki KZ650) and was told if I got pulled over while commuting there would be problems. She didn't elaborate on what type of problems. Seems kinda dumb to me, and looking over the Ohio Revised Code I don't see any consequences listed (fines, etc) for using a historical plated vehicle for whatever I want, although the code does specify they are for shows etc only. I am not an attorney, and I'm definitely not your attorney, so don't take my comment as advice.
L)llama llll
My favorite thing about this video is the truck is going back to WORK. I love to see the old machinery used as it was intended, not just going to car shows. Thanks for the video!
Matt, for never doing a wheel seal job on a big truck, you did pretty well. I was a school bus mechanic for 43+ years, so I probably have done literally 100’s of them, a couple pointers, smack the end of the axle after the bolts are out and it will “ bounce “ right out, second, I always used to fill the crater between the two bearings with 80w-90 before I put the hub back on, and then I tipped the whole rear end to the side that I had off so it would send differential grease down the tube and lube the bearings. Nice work. This truck is a beast!
Love the old tricks folks share with us here. Cheers buddy!
You will get a BIG yes on that extra oil in between the bearings , or take truck and pull up on the rock pile and let the oil run out of the diff into the bearings ! What I did 🤔
@@davidcatlette9697 most of the motor coaches actually had a plug in the axle that you could clock to the top and fill it with oil. Kinda like a planetary
Matt, What Greg said on whacking the axle to bounce the axle and release the wedges. They also make a nifty tool to grab and open the wedges for ease of removal. You got a few trucks with those axle wedges, get the tool to say you time.
I am a current school bus mechanic. I do the same trick of hitting the axle with a hammer to get the cones to pop. Just have to be careful cause they will shoot across the shop
That truck is going to be the beast of a older “construcktor” autocar, hope it works flawlessly!
Just amazing that he just gets a license plate, and can drive it in the condition it is in.
Here the truck would have to pass an inspection before getting the plates, the truck would have to be tested to see that it brakes enough and evenly, the headlamps needed to be adjusted with proper equipment for it to not blind oncoming motorists, and driving the truck with no trailer, would not be allowed, as long as there are nothing covering the wheels.
Also, all of the lamps would have be to either factory lamps, or lamps that has been approved for use on that particular make and model.
Also, just adding a "random" trailer attachment like that would definitively be a big no no. :)
Also, here trucks have to pass inspections every 12 months to be road legal.
@@JohnDoe-bd5sz Where is it you have all these rules?
@@danssmokintreasures I bet its in the uk
@@JohnDoe-bd5sz i dont think matt is gonna drive it illegal down the road that wont last very long before gets busted.....the truck will get all the required documents and inspections before it hits the road.. 100% matt doesn't screw arund if u have been watchin his videos u would know
@@JohnDoe-bd5sz they have temp plates so u can get the saftey done within 10 days or something
I love how if he makes a mistake, instead of not putting it in the video he corrects himself
hes just proving that he doesnt know what hes doing like he says so many times, but gets the job done anyways and learns how to do it right, trial by fire
Just a friendly tip, Whenever you replace a wheel seal jack up the opposite side of the axle when finished so oil runs back in the hub and you won't run on dry bearings at first. Keep up the good work
Add half a bottle of gear oil right before axle goes in would work also. 👍
We always pre-lubed the bearings.
My brother was a diesel mechanic in the '70's and '80's and I can remember him working on a lot of the same equipment that we see you working on,Matt. Definitely brings back some good memories of when that truck was new
Lifting the grader with the forks was yet another OSHA approved procedure!!
You know the Willy Wonka song popped in my head the moment I saw him do that....lol
A simple tug one or two feet forward would have opened up a lot of space and would be a lot safer.
I was like "You're seriously going to trust that with Christine?!"
@@Denpachii hard to just tug it when the blade is on the ground huh.
No. If a construction worker is truly self-employed - is not an employee - and has no employees working for him or her, OSHA has no authority to require that individual to abide by OSHA construction requirements.
Matt, rule of thumb on flap length:
Measure from hub center to flap,
Set flap 1/3 that distance from the ground.
This brings back memories of working on my old 92 Peterbilt 379. Sounds and looks so similar in the cab. Even the low air pressure alarm sounded the same
@@arthurboyd522 yew
fesgseg
Love it. Do yourself a favor after you get the 5th wheel locks working. When backing under don’t slam the pin. You can actually cause more damage. When working properly just bumping it is all it takes. It’s a rookie thing that I used to see pretty often. Can’t wait to see her the road.
Matt you should never remove the lug nuts completely until you free the keeper wedges as some times they can come off like a shotgun blast
They can really mess you up. I have said this a few times on different channels and always get laughed at though
Those wedges are no joke, especially if they're been on for a long time.
Hey explains that in the video he knows what he is doing.
When I was younger a friend was fixing a flat on one of those split rims. The rim popped off and killed the man. My father had a cage built with thick wall pipes. Just in case it ever happened again the men would be safe. After we had the cage no rims ever come loose. But it did make you feel better with the cage
@@Itz_Twiz Yes to a certain point he does but he still hasn’t walked one who you talk to good wrenches . Nobody is above learning and he doesn’t have experience yet but he will in a few more years
When you inevitably have to do the three other oil seals, on the drive axles (and possible on the front axle) look closely on the locking ring, it is not symmetrical, and that is on purpose, if you turn it around, you get a "new" row of holes, right between where they were a second ago. I commend you for repairing something you have never worked on before, and having success at that. I have never worked on a semi axle before, but have worked on a Dana 70 ( 80 ?) so I would work the semi axle, but I have never dared to take a diesel injection pump apart as you have, and I might never dare to. Keep up the great work.
As a former truck driver, I have a suggestion: Mount some blind spot mirrors to those two poles sticking up off the front bumper. Having mirrors there will help immensely with lane changing and, in some cases, backing your rig in tight spots. I'm talking like huge blind spot mirrors, btw.
If he wanted your opinion he would have asked for it
@@bobwalton3642 No need to be so rude. Chill.
@@hayleyxyz not being rude just speaking the truth
Super truckers are great at giving out opinions without want or need. After 3 years, I got away from that industry because I couldn't handle a$$hole truckers anymore.
@@bobwalton3642 if JHVShack over there wanted your opinion he'd ask, yet he didn't so sit your keyboard warrior ass down
Wish I was 40 years younger to go up there and watch you do your thing. These are wonderful videos, and they show a determination, intelligence and cleverness that makes the USA a great as it is. Thank you Matt!
42:36 Hahaha, I had to timestamp this. Made my day. (: Listening to two voices at once definitely makes it feel like a shop environment.
Matt , on your mudflap problem , first shorten the length so they don't drag on the ground . Second , place pins on both sides of hanger bracket to keep the hanger level to the frame. And, PA tractor license plate are required to be on the front of the truck. Keep up the good work.
I love it when good advice is shared 👍
Flat rate pays 1.5 and you can make time and then some...
9/16 or 7/16 to back slaks off is gold..
Ohh and we don't use no skidloader to lift em, use your back!
Then, the steam cleaner is your friend.
been watching since you started the channel and i love every episode but the number 1 thing that intrigues me the most is the fact that matt does all this work alone!
that is simply amazing!
now ive been playing with trucks and equipment all my life and let me tell you that none of this is easy!
its grunt work everything is heavy and dirty and rusty. one must be very strong physically and very determined to win with these old iron creatures!
i have tons on respect for you sir!
if more men were like you this world would be a much better place!
as for the autocar. that is one of the toughest trucks ever build they last forever and just dont break
reminds me of the old pacific trucks!
probably related? but not sure?
anyway.
great video as always
youre a great achiever!
and thats why we watch your videos!
keep on the good work!
thank you!
Not very smart, either. Hes gonna end up dropping a piece of equipment on him and noone else is there to help him. The way he uses the lift forks to lift the grader and other equipment is gonna bite him on the qss someday.. He forgets things all the time and ends up figuring it out after the fact.Not a good or safe way to run a shop..
@@grandtheftautotune7715 It must be amazing to be yourself. Not too sure you'd have the testicles to speak directly to him.
@@grandtheftautotune7715 It sounds like you're completely disappointed and dissatisfied with Matt's methods of doing things..., you are very welcome to quit watching his videos.
Otherwise, quit 'cher belly aching and stop being Debbie Downer!
The true criminal is the state charging $2500 a year to own a truck
@@grandtheftautotune7715 NOT Bite your tongue...invite the devil? For shame, SMFH
Nothing to see on your channel but 😖 'nigga' tunes
Hey when I first got out of school in the 80's I worked on trucks for 5 years before moving on to cranes. I used to rebuild alot of fifth wheels, I would pop out the pins on flip them over onto a bench and replace everything and had a dummy pin to adjust the latches. That axle seal you were replacing ya cage the brake then back off the S cam. When you set the bearing preload on the axle hub if the locking ring does not line up with the tit slide it off flip it 180 and reinstall and will probably line up the holes on the ring are offset to the tang that is on it.
My grandfather delivered in a Model TT which is in a museum. My dad started driving in 1939 and then an M8 in WWII. He retired in the late 1980s and died in 2012. That whole side of my family were Local 299 teamsters. I went the maternal way and became first a UAW worker then a high school teacher, but I still have diesel in my blood. Love the Autocar.
I have a Model TT tow truck in my garage. The dogs and I go for rides and run errands in it.
Local 299 across from Tiger Stadium on Trumbul Avenue.
i dig that old truck! a tip i learned when pulling axle shafts on highway trucks is to hit the outside of the axle right in the center with a few sharp snaps of a sledge. not too hard but its usually enough to pop out those cones and the axle shaft a hair. then you push the axle back in a bit and pull the cones with your fingers.
Matt, love the vid. The Autocar Construcktor is a beast! BTW, you'll need a couple of Diesel Creek flags in the flag mounts up front. I think your channel is the best for resurrecting old iron. Really have to hand it to you for the way you dive into a problem and explain the fix as you repair/replace the problem. Its amzing you have such patience for these projects. Your "hobby" is both inspirational and educational. Keep up the great work.
*- I agree with each point of recognition and encouragement you penned.*
Check the diameter of the kingpin. I read somewhere that military semi-trailers of that era had larger diameter kingpins. When I had my trucks, when removing the wheel to do brakes I left the tires on. I jacked up the wheel high enough to slide a sheet of oiled thin metal under the tires. after taking off the hub nuts and backing off the slack adjuster I just wiggled the whole assembly and slid it off the hub. That is what I did.
good points
Thanks Matt, great update, Being Ex military we used to run a different sized King Pin to standard road users, check that diameter, also with the older style turntable / 5th wheel the release handle should pull and turn to release the locking mechanism not saying the one you have does that but worth checking instead of pulling it apart , Good luck mate, looking forward to the next Diesel creek upload
A 3" pin won't slip into a 2.5" receiver that easily. I'd say the original pin was swapped out.
Unless they use some other size I've never heard of.
Surely 3in is standard in the US now
Beem that way for 30yrs in Australia
@@fowletm1992 I don't know, they only pull half the weight....
@@1one3_Racing
Fair point
Prob only need 2.5 for single trailers
Hey Matt, your apportion plate needs to be on front bumper. When you pull a trailer it blocks the plate. This is why you see power units with the registration plate on front bumper. Love your videos
Matt, I'd take the windshield out and seal and repair the rust and any missing metal under the seal, new seal won't last long with a compromised base metal. Love your channel, evertime I watch I gives me the motivation to work on both my '48 Willys pickups.
Cool trucks, get out there and give ‘‘em some love
if im not mistaken that truck has a aluminum cab I believethat's what he said I the first video of it
@@stingray427ss4 - There sure was a lot of rust on the roof when he was replacing the marker lights to be aluminum.
@@flick22601 I could very much be wrong then
@@flick22601 I was wrong I went and looked back at the first video matt said he thought it was aluminum I didn't read the caption saying it was steel
Matt, I learned a trick to make removing the axle wedge locks easier. Take an old pair of channel locks and grind the top jaw down to almost a knife blade but leave the bottom jaw alone. Remove all the axle nuts and hit the end of the axle shaft, this should bounce it out some. Shove the axle back in and use your new wedge lock tool to open the wedges more and pull them out easy. Hope this helps. I used to work on trucks and tractors in my younger years and still love watching your channel. They probably make a tool for removing those wedge locks but an old truck mechanic showed me how to make one using a old pair of channel locks and now I’m sharing it with you.
The tool dealers sell those wedge pliers.
Take the pivot bolts out of the fifth wheel plate, flip it over, clean and inspect the underside of the plate. You are probably missing at least one spring. That fifth looks ancient but you still might be able to get a spring kit for it. Also, take that problem very very seriously. The last thing you want is a disconnect.
Amen!
Matt, one thing I believe you are in desperate need of in almost every video I've watched and that would be an industrial press. I lost count on how many times you could have used one to make the job go easier and faster. Even home projects demand time management. Love your channel, man!
Great job, Matt! LEDs always are polarity sensitive, unlike incandescent bulbs.
Actually the newer ones aren't all polarity sensitive.
Hey Matt always love your videos
got a few tips for ya
I'm a diesel mechanic up here in Canada that might help ya out
I sees ya figured out about backing off the brakes to remove the hub easier great job brother
Tip 1
To remove then cones on the axles put the nuts back on the axle just at the end of the treads then hit the center of the axle hard with a sludge hammer and the vibration from hitting the axle will pop the cones out exactly like the wedges for the spoke wheels ( leaving the nuts on will stop the cones from flying off )
Tip#2 pre lube your inner bearing - little lube on your unitized seal when installing then little lube on the spindle to allow the hub to slide on easy - put the hub half way on to alway you to fill the hub with oil then hub goes on pre lube the outer bearing befor installing - install hub
Torque the inner nut to 250 lbs spin the hub 1 full rotation Torque again to 250 and repeat a 3rd time, then back off the nut 1 full turn
Then Torque to 50lbs do not rotate the hub wile torqu8ng this 50 lbs the back off 1/4 turn and that should be good
Tip 3 the lock ring has the tab and holes on it -if the dowel is 1/2 way in the hole of the lock ring ,flip the ring over it is designed that it will line up 1/2 a hole length from one side of the ring to the other
Then last Torque the outer nut to 250lbs
Nice work Matt! The straight exhaust pipe probably added $5000 value to the old truck! Before you go anywhere you need to give the truck a good tilt towards the side with the seal that you replaced to make sure the bearing is lubricated well.
As I Watch Wes Work, here on RUclips. I noted he always soaked his bearings in oil prior...
I always enjoy seeing it, tks. I am 84 years old born 3-11-39. 20 years retired US Army. all good, be safe k
As soon as you started wriggling the hub I said to my phone "he hasn't backed the brakes off"
Not because I'm smarter, just because I've done it. More than once. I didn't get the puller out but. That was next level!
From working years in the field, a tip. When doing brakes and wheel seals, etc, Yes, cage the brake first. Do not take the wheels off, leave on the hub as an assembly, pop the axle shaft in the center to remove the split cone washers. If not using a crane or lifting device, Lift the truck enough to put a small sheet of plywood twice the width of the dual under the wheels. (You wont need plywood if working on concrete.) Now, On a piece of cardboard, twice the width of the dual wheels also, put a thin layer of grease, set the truck down until just touching the cardboard, remove the lock nuts, then with the wheels just resting on the card board, you should be able to pull the wheel assembly off, sliding on the grease. A pressure washer works great to remove all the oil, dirt etc. Then when assembling, you may need a bit more grease on the cardboard, slowly line up the spindle to not damage the seal, push the assembly back on. The etc, reassemble.
I was going to suggest that idea kinda... except we used a piece of sheet alum (cause we had it, old trailer side) and put motor oil on it...lol. If you do enough, ya figure the easy way. ~ U&R Express inc.~
Tip, if the seal has a spring that is used for tension , pack the seal with grease so when you "persuade" the seal back on, that the spring wont pop out . Once grease, diff fluid, or brake fluid has soaked into brake pads or shoes no matter how clean them , once they get hot, the matter will come out and cause a lock up of that wheel. Replace only.
If you ain't makin mistakes you ain't lernin. There will always be mistakes the first time you do anything. My truck has the same type of wheels and I struggled for 4 hours trying to get one wheel off the hub that was stuck. I got on the internet and a guy said just give it one wack with a hammer on the top spoke, and the dang thang came right off in 1 second. Thanks for the great video, from watching you, I can now change the seals on my truck if they ever start leaking.
Matt, you really need to weld up at least 2 truck stands for that thing. That lil bottle jack can lift the weight, but your safety req's a wee bit more support. Stay safe man, we really enjoy watching you struggle every week to complete projects the rest of us would most likely fail at. You're doing a great job at the videos too, you've come a long way and it shows.
Cheers for the weekly content.
Some large wooden blocks would suffice.
He's very careful not to get under it and usually does support it. Pretty sure he lifted the grader and worked next to it instead of moving it with dozer just to troll us up a bit.
Matt if you hit the center of the axle it will “bounce “ the axle off the hub. The keepers will come out also.
Yep. Leave the nuts on a couple turns to catch the keepers so they don't go into LEO and give it a couple good heavy whacks right dead center. Pops out every time.
I was coming to say that. Learned that from an old timer that was watching me get my butt kicked by them. 2 good hits and it came out.
Yeah that never works when the cones are mushroomed into the threads from the nuts being torqued .
Matt, ensure the differential vent on top of the diff is clear.
If it’s plugged, that will cause condensation buildup in the diff.
was bout to comment the same thing
Matt, I’ve been changing all the lights on my equipment to LED’s. I’m sick of blown bulbs and they’re not over priced anymore. Also, it would be better to mount those tail lights inside the frame rails to protect them , just a suggestion. Nice job resurrecting that Autocar.
yup thats for sure
There are a few applications where you can't use LEDs. Either they don't draw enough current to make the circuit work, or they light is directed differently than an incandescent. I have encountered both of those scenarios. I like LEDs, but unfortunately, you can't use them everywhere. In a few cases, the gains aren't worth the trouble. Yes, those lights should be inside the frame rails. They will NOT last out there. Ask me how I know.
Why does everyone put LEDs on EVERYTHING??? LEDs on this would be a sin 😂
Unless they are cheap crappy LED's then they fail after 6 months
@@MaxNafeHorsemanship I didn’t know that. Everywhere I tried them they have worked…..so far!
Those are cone washers holding that axle in. They make a special pliers to get them out easily.
If this truck passes a DOT safety inspection you’ll be a very lucky person! I was in trucking for 30 years and I’m retired and I don’t want no part of your headaches. Good luck!
Remove the fifth wheel and The mechanism. There’s also a pen that you can buy to put in there just to help release the jars.
Looks like a good candidate. My 78 Frieghtliner passed no problem.
Just remember when you hook up the winch, you can add gin poles and use the truck as a lift as well. Also, sorry about the problems with the fifth wheel. Nice content, Matt. Thanks a lot.
Once she's repainted that's going to be one great lookin' rig! A lot of work for a truck that'll work so hard for you, Matt.
There should be some kind of lock ring between the 2 nuts. Nut ring with holes to lock inside nut then maybe a washer with tabs to end over one of theflats on the outside nut. You are so right about loosing the slack adjuster before removing the drum. Keep up the good work, I enjoy and am a little jealous of all your toys. Love equipment.
Is he going to repaint it? I hadn't heard that...
@@Calamity_Jack, he hasn't said but if he follows the course of Christine and other projects he will eventually dress the truck up with a repaint job.
@@richardcline1337 That'd be cool. The "rat" look works for some vehicles, but I think the Autocar would look great restored.
Well Mat my dear friend, please be careful lifting machines, you're a good man and one slip and it's too late. Kind regards
To save on mud flaps, get another set of brackets and mount them in front of the front drive axle. You don’t need mud flaps if you’re pulling a trailer, and if you’re working off road, it doesn’t matter if you have them or not. Move the mud flaps from the rear brackets to the front brackets any time except for when you are running bobtail on the highway.
Great video Matt. Just a suggestion from an old trucker is to spray down the underside with some diesel fuel. It works into the old grease & loosens stuff up. We always used 1202 during the winter time on the 5th wheel because the grease would freeze up running here in northern Ontario.
Sister putting tail lights out what about a roof light when your towing or anything
I heard you honk the air horn, your electric "City" horn has to work also. The wipers have to work on all speeds it has, (if electric) and if it has washers, they have to work also! Don't forget about reflectors also! Go to the DMV and get a book that tells you all the requirements for the DOT inspection! Air brake leak down test, and warning buzzer and light have to come on a 60 PSI. I cut my teeth driving a 71 Diamond Reo, and a few old Autocars, great trucks to learn on back in the day! That shot of looking out over that big ol hood, brought back many memory's of a time long ago past! Thanks Matt!
If I can add to your valuable suggestion; at 39:30, service air hose near the fitting show some surface ''abrasion'' and for some DMV/DOT it is enough to ground you until repair. Be well ;-)
Back in 96 I was driving in 85 Peterbilt and the muffler exploded It almost caused me to have an accident because it sounded just like a bomb went off and all this black smoke and debris filled the cab craziest damn thing I ever witnessed.. those tag fees actually all tag fees are ridiculous.. You definitely need to fix that one eyeball I used to know where so many autocars sat but sadly they are all gone.
Only those of us of a certain age can fully appreciate the history of this old truck, thank you for keeping it as original as possible. This video was a joy to watch!
My favorite video of yours yet! I LOVE seeing these old classic pieces of iron having the work done to get them back on the road and doing the job they were built to do. And putting a flapper cap on the exhaust stack... *chef's kiss*
Matt leave the tires on the hub ,put a flat piece of steel under the lower the jack down where it almost touches pour some oil on the plate and you can slide it on the slick steel right off the truck. After you release the brakes. Give it a try it works been doing this for years. Love your videos
Back when I was a truck mechanic to do wheel seals we left the wheels, hub and brake drum all together and simply removed the hub nut and pulled the whole thing as one big assembly. You could do wheel seals in about 10 mins if you got really good at them with no need for retourqes or dealing with the god awful spoke wheel wedges.
Had to laugh on a video or so back when you were struggling in the metal (gravel) with your floor jack and I was thinking - "man I bet there isn't going to be a day too soon for your new workshop", to where I had hardly thought it and you said virtually the same thing! Haha, hopefully that day isn't too far away - you deserve it! PS. Hopefully you share the build of it too Matt.
Been watching your content for quite awhile now and absolutely love your channel. Your so down to earth And funny. Keep up the good work . I always want to see what you come up with each week, Cheers!
Could see the grader being in the way of the axel removal. Fill rear ends to plug level and let excess drain out. Don't stop and quickly install level plug while oil is draining from filler hole. That's over filling. Nice choice of cab lights. Pull the fifth wheel off at the pins and flip it over and take the jaws apart and clean them. Rust will be your problem , as usual with old iron. You can by a rebuild kit for them if necessary which includes a new spring. Cut old spring with torch, if you do a rebuild, and it is much easier for disassembly. Hope I've been of some help. Another great video! Thanks!
😅 I noticed lots of things that I would never do but hey best of luck! Lol
Matt, I grew up watching and following what my father did. He always used Kerosene to wash his car parts, you could reuse it till it was really dirty. I have never seen any American mechanics use kerosene. An old jam tin and a paintbrush.
I have a feeling we are going to see a "disassembling and cleaning a 5th wheel" video in the near future! 😂 Really enjoy your videos!
Is that release bar on the wrong side??
@@nightsailor1 there's no right or wrong. It depends on who made the fifth wheel and when
You’ve worked your ass off doing those jobs in this heat. Some of them major. No need to lose it on the rubber wheel mats. What I see sometimes is a thin metal bar in front of the mat near it so that it can’t curl up to your wheel and get pulled under. Just an idea. I look forward to learning how a 5th wheel works!!
Matt!!! The bushings and return springs are usually the problem with newer 5th wheels. To diagnose that we use bungee cords pulling the handle inwards and if it locks after that we change the return springs.
I’ll give you a tip. When you’re doing an axle seal and you go to pull the axle out of the hub, take about a 5 lb sledge hammer and hit the axle right in the middle pretty hard, and it should pop right out. When you hit it from the back in a small area with a pick, you could risk messing the flange up
Leave the nuts holding the axle on the studs. If you take the nuts off the studs and you're a little rusty with a sledgehammer and you hit a stud you will have a problem. Probably won't get a nut started on the stud because it's mushroomed from the hammer. If it's bent or really mushroomed the axle won't come out. Leave the nuts till the axle is loose. Bunch of oil will need to be captured.
To add to both of these comments; rather than dicking around pulling the wedges, run the nuts out, put em back on a few threads, then tap the center like stated. It'll free all the wedges and crack everything else loose. Saves a bunch of time.
i drove a big rig tow truckfor 10 years and 99% i had to pull axle shaft and i agree with both but just one smallcomment to add a 10# sluge anda good full swing or ttwo makes it go alot faster
That thing has WAY more miles than you think. Cool rig.
Second tip use a greased tin and pull tires and wheel from the hub in one piece
I have always been a strong supporter Matt with words of "Doing good" that sort.... I spent most of my life doing just what you are trying to learn so please take this under advisement. You did your wheel bearing install wrong. Never wash a bearing and put it back in without it soaking in a pan of oil as I used to do kinda ahead of time... if time is pushed, at least coat this bearing in oil heavy as it will get oil from its diff alright but not soon enough. Next, since the bearing used just the lock ring center when trying to find its pin, You can take that washer/locking ring and just flip it over to see which is the closest to fitting the adjuster pin lock... it doesn't always go first try but its gonna take some of that slack out. Next your not using a fold over washer/ring so after its on the ring to hold it, I think you did a "wow" thats tight! Good reason as I seen you bend down on the ratchet wrench and call it good... not even close as it heats up will back right off of there so go back and at least torque it to around two hundred foot pounds or a pipe on the wrench you used and get it tight tight! As for the other you did great, I never went past center of my tires with the flaps as they just find a pinch and off they come like when backing out... the rubber you cut off now can make some gaskets or what ever but your not done doing flaps till shorter. AS a final note, yes it costs there to register your rig... its about a fourth of here in alaska and its every six months
Well said sir, as for the wheel bearings Not only would I have done some oil I think I would have squirted some grease into them at least partially because it'll turn into oil eventually, that would have given the bearings a better chance.
Some other thoughts,
One seal dies, do the other 3 or you will chase them for the next 3 months.
Stop the rust on the cab!
The flaps may stick out to far. Easy to snag stuff
Should it smoke that much without a load?
good comments thank you so much! Bob
Was waiting for replies on his axle removal. Arend you supposed to hit the axle dead center with a sledge to loosen it? I think all the nuts need torque to spec as note above. I think the brake shoes are junk. As they see heat the oil will come out.
Thats great input man!
@@thewayidoit8895 Absolutely, I felt bad just calling him on a bearing that is going to fail sooner than it should, thats if the wheel doesn't just walk off of the spindle. Yes nail the head of the axle to jar it loose, then remove. That shoe set has enough oil to burn it down as it will catch fire this way when holding a load back on some hill. Short stops not so much.... I just figure with the stress cracks in that drum showing, it should all been replaced.
@@morgansword One more thing is how easily the seal can be damaged just hanging the hub on the Differential (I won't even touch driving it in with a dirty block of wood). I prefer to be lucky instead of good so hopefully Matt got away with another one here.
11:12 Should be replaced. The oil will have permeated deep into the friction lining. AT BEST they're simply not gonna grab as hard as the others, at worst you'll get a brake fire.
It'll cook out the first time he heads down wolf crick pass.
Soak the pads well in varsol after cleaning them and cover them in floor dry for about a week
I was thinking that too, pre-lubed brake shoes. I bet they are expensive but its brakes, just the power to stop, no big deal? haha
@@petrhoward Hope you never work on anything more substantial than an RC car. Brakes are NOT to be fucked with. Oil soaked brake shoes are about as bad as simply not having any shoes at all.
I don't want to look in my mirror in a traffic jam and see a truck barreling towards me with 4/6 tractor brakes working because the other two have oil soaked shoes. Would you?
@@gheinrich13 Hope you never work on anything more substantial than an RC car. Brakes are NOT to be fucked with. Oil soaked brake shoes are about as bad as simply not having any shoes at all.
I don't want to look in my mirror in a traffic jam and see a truck barreling towards me with 4/6 tractor brakes working because the other two have oil soaked shoes. Would you?
If it's not one thing, it's another! Just love watching you solve one thing after another. It will get there, and people will be impressed on the road.
Even though these bearings will get oil, I would have put a thin coating if axle grease on them and the races before re-installing them.
We had an old Diamond T with a Buda diesel and it hauled rock during the building of the LBJ around Dallas/Ft. Worth.
Had to replace a broken axle-I can *still* feel your pain!
My *absolute worst* gravel-pit repair was an old IH with a huge gas engine and cable dump. During a lift the cable slipped and it dropped so hard that that one broke an axle. It must have stressed the two-speed gear collar, as we found pieces of it when we pulled the axle. Had to drop the godawful-heavy rear right there in the side of the pit road, replace the two-speed gear, lift the rear end back up and re-engage it with the housing bolts.
Naturally, the new paper gasket tore, so we put layer upon layer of cotton string around the housing bolts, each layer bedded in axle grease, one layer piled on the next, then tightened up the housing.
This actually worked-didn’t leak a a drop and the truck was repaired. Three days!
👍👍👍👍👍 This is one of the best videos you have posted so far. I love seeing what you do with the old equipment to bring them back to life. For all younger people can see what it was like back before all this stuff now. Keep it up and stay safe have fun.
For future reference, a sharp rap with a hammer on top of the axle flange will pop those tapers right out of their seats. As mentioned before there are 2 sized king pins on the 172 trailer. and the color is Omaha orange.
Haha sometimes you’re the reason for the safety meeting, other days you’re the one they call when they need to do something sketchy
Hey, Matt, I missed out on some of this restoration, so I decided to start at the beginning. Awesome job as always!!
Been waiting all day for an upload. Keep up the good work Matt.
Progress is progress, regardless of how far or short of distance you make it. It's always good to get something useful after sitting around and collecting rust.
You're doing a fantastic job getting the Auto car back on the road! Can't wait for the next video,when you can go cruising with that trailer!! Keep up the amazing work Matt!!
That's one of coolest autocars I've ever seen,I know it's alot of work but we'll worth it ,I don't think anyone will mess with ya out there driveing that tractor.take care.
Who would think one would need a “Fat Alice” to remove an axle. Another Matt’s Miracle. Thanks for the ride. Boy… sure would be nice to work in a SHOP with a concrete floor. Keep them videos coming. Enjoy every one.
You never failed to make me happy about that autocar Matt, congrats on your progress.
Great video, Matt! So glad to see the Autocar "Construcktor" getting ready to be roadworthy! Thanks! I just wondered about the rear placement of the license plate. Because of pulling trailers and such, any plate for a truck over 18k goes on the front of the tractor. And Missouri only gives you one plate.
Yes that's true. In most states that require front and rear plates they only give you one plate for a road tractor. It goes on the front. But I have seen tractors with plates on front and back I guess it depends on the state. I was thinking maybe that thing had not been previously registered as a road tractor. But he did say he was licensed for 80,000 pounds, can't get that much weight on three axles so he would have to pull a trailer to reach 80,000 pounds. And the plates he's got will only allow him to operate in Pennsylvania. Unless he has apportioned plates that has the States you operate in listed on the registration you have to get a permit from any other state you want to go to. Then there's the IFTA stickers. Same thing. It lists the states you want to operate in so they can collect their fuel taxes. Pennsylvania may have different laws if you list it as being used on a farm, but you still won't be able to leave Pennsylvania without permits. Was working for a private not for hire company when they came out with the apportioned plates in the 70s. The officer at the weigh station in Winterhaven California educated me about it. If I remember correctly he gave me a break on the ticket but I did have to buy a temporary permit before I could continue.
@@robgm6926 The US has a crazy system lol- here in Australia- any registered vehicle can go anywhere- all states have 'travel rights'... if its registered, it can go anywhere...
Although a 'ratrod'/vintage semi is quite acceptable (as long as it meets mechanical standards- a lot of those airlines for example would be an automatic fail)- the smokescreen wouldn't be, in any state here... need to clean that stack up lol
(oh, and here- its front and rear plates- all states, all vehicles- except motorbikes- they get to run rear only)
@@steved2136 The States' license plate strictures do not bar crossing State lines, just in the requirements for how the registration is mounted. Texas issues, and requires 2 plates, front and back. Louisiana only requires the rear plate (but can require a "Commercial" plate to be visible if a trailer is fitted. Matt will also need to display his Pennsylvania DoT and US DoT registration numbers painted on the the sides, too--once he acquires those after Inspection..
@@steved2136 ya front n rear plates do you have to pay for both stickers and tags or is it the price of 1 tag for 2 otherwise it's pretty retarded
@@steved2136 the apportioned plates are only for commercial vehicles over a certain registered gross vehicle weight. Private personal use vehicles can travel anywhere with their home state registration. It's just another way the states make money off of trucks. A portion of the registration fee goes to each state you run in. Even though Matt's truck is private not for hire, it's size and registered gross vehicle weight means he still has to comply with some of the rules that apply to all commercial vehicles. I really don't know which rules will apply to him, but he'll find out as he goes along.
I'm waiting to see the engine your going to put in her and all the repair stuff on your list with this orange autocar. I love all your videos they come at the right time for me first thing in the morning with coffee on the weekends.
Thanks so much!
I've done all the jobs you just done to this truck multiple times. You still somehow make it entertaining. Great work as always Matt. Thank you.
Morning Matt, I always liked them old A-cars, wait till you get the blue one going, what we used to do was take a piece of sheet metal, lube it up, slide the tires, rim & brake drum off all at once, those two washer looking circles on the axle flange? Those are sledge hammer flats, wack the flange a couple times, it will knock those axle wedges right out...worked great!!! Be safe!!!
God Bless!!
nothing better than a sunday morning diesel creek video !!makes my morning soooooo much better !
Our shop keeps no greater than 5 10.00-20's(spoken as 10 20, never heard ten-hundred 20) at a time. Very few trucks come through needing them, and the only reliable customer that asks for them is rail companies like Norfolk Southern. Every few months we'll get one request from a driver with a chassis trailer that needs them, and if they're lucky enough we'll have some pre-assembled lying around. We no longer mount and dismount them for safety reasons. We ship them off to another one of our locations and they exchange our old ones for their new ones.
Was kinda kringing when i saw you take the lug nuts off without making sure the wedges were loose. Those have enough force to bust a knee when they break loose. Also having worked as a truck mechanic i can smell that job! Haha
Wow! Everything is just so HUGE on a truck that size - 4" socket, OMG! First time I knew anything about wedge-locks. That's what I like about your videos, Matt, I always learn something new, even if it's only how much effort it takes to deal with heavy equipment. You've got really good lighting in your outdoor shop, excellent for working with. Those are some beautiful, wooded lanes you were driving down! Nice country! "Nothing is ever easy," is a self-perpetuating belief - you need to change your mindset. Sorry about the fifth wheel not working, but you did a bang-up job getting that truck roadworthy!
I didn’t think the brake shoes would clean up that good. Good job Matt!
You are obviously setting this truck up the way you want it and that is admirable that you are getting it complwtwly legal for use on the highways. Just a thought of my own here though, IF and WHEN you have a tire disintegrate it will likely take a tail light with it.
Matt I’m torn between a restoration or no restoration stopping the surface rust and leaving it the way she is. I just don’t get tired of seeing this truck! But now after seeing the pretty serious rust on the cab roof that’s going need attention soon.
When I used to do these in the field if I didn’t have my crane around I used to put down a as piece of plywood put a tarp on it and a little dawn dish soap and water then slide that under the tires. Then lower the Jack till the tires are just supporting themselves on the tarp and slide the whole assembly off and you can roll it to the pressure washer
The effort you put in the filming and video editing is outstanding.
Ha sadeek how is Pakistan
@@babagandu 😊😊
This is very sentimental to me ! Awesome job so far ! When I was around 10 in the early 90s I remember an old tandem dump truck grandpa had, most were international S series or Ford L9000 but this was a 73 White konstuctor , with the 555 Cummins and a Allison auto. At 12 I was stockpiling on-site. Great memories!
Hopefully this will work,I've had those locks jam open a few times on a few old beaters our company owned.
Back your truck up until the king-pin is all the way into the fifth wheel,make sure you are pushing against the king-pin,set your brake so the truck doesn't move, you have to have that pressure against the king-pin.
Try pushing and pulling on your release handle, try using a "Southern Screw Driver" (aka a hammer) and knock the hell out of it a few times.
A lot of the double couplers have a cam plate attached to the release handle,they have an angled slot ( \ ) with a pin in it,sometimes they rust up and the pin jams in that slot.
yes old schools are a nightmare
Don’t worry about leaving a cliff hanger, you worked incredibly hard. The only relief you really had was cordless electric tools lol.
Even though I don't work on this gear for a living, I learn some great problem-solving skills from Matt on every video. Please don't ever edit out the mistakes and please keep talking to us about how you solve problems.
I LOVE your two old AUTOCARS ! (but may be a bit biased) I am amazed at your level of patience and have to say your are brilliant at problem solving, then fixing, all while explaining concisely on video. Major props Matt !
It would be nice to see both of them brought back to life but this one is still great