This video just saved my bacon! Literally followed you step by step and found out that I have juice flowing from the BCM to the start/run relay. Put a jumper from the battery to fuse 52 and it fired right up! Now I just need to trace the wiring and find the break. THANK YOU!
Ford took 2000 then said they couldn't fix my truck. YOUR A BADASS MAN, THANK YOU SO MUCH! I ran a hot wire to a toggle and a the fuse box under the hood and mine fired up! Thank you man for real thank you. I own a small business and this truck is detrimental to my job. It worked on a 6.2 v8 thank you!
This video helped me fix my '15 F250. Didn't have to dig nearly as much thankfully but found that the 12V constant to the starter relay was shot. As a "temp" fix I just soldered the two HOTS together on the starter relay and now everything works (for now). Figured it's relatively safe as the working HOT line was the one that has the 10A fuse so technically speaking they're both on a 10A fuse now. It is what it is but I'm happy to have a working truck again lol
Just wanted to say this video was extremely helpful getting me on the right track to find the solution to this same issue with my 14 f250 6.2 gas. Mine had a stripped corroded wire on the bottom side of the fuse block that basically killed the power to the row of fuses behind the relay discussed in the video. I had enough room to cut it and repair it and the truck runs like it should now. Thanks for making such a detailed video!!!
Thank you! Was having the same issue with the F350 here at work. I need to get a better diag tool, and access to electrical schematics. If not for your video, I'd still be banging my head against the wall! Now i need to decide whether to just run a wire, or actually go through the harness and find the open circuit...
I have a 2011 f450 and the brown with violet stripe wire was broke/ chafed about 6” out of the junction box. Thank you so much for putting out a decent tutorial on the diagnosis.
Great video, I was looking to fix my PATS system in my truck and came across this video. Very helpful for those having that problem. Mine is a no crank no start situation ill keep looking hopefully I find the reason why.
Hey, Great video. really helped me along with mine with the same no crank issue. My truck wasn't actually the ground control side of the relay but was the power supply side "jumper" to the relay under the fuse block. it has corroded from and also very melted ac compressor clutch feed wire from the next fuse over. #47 I believe. probally see a lot of this on older SD's thx again!!😊
😊 My 2012 f350 had the same problem and after watching your video I was able to isolate the problem to the relay. Removed relay and it failed test so I got a new relay and the truck works like new. I never would have even able to determine anything about which relay or even if it was a relay. I checked the voltage on the same fuses you talked about and found no power our of the relay. Thank you
First check the fuel pump reset switch located on the passenger side of the front seat by the right foot. 9 times out of 10 it's that switch.. It won't throw a code if that's the problem.
What symptoms would you have if you had a bad fuel shut off switch? Would it not run at all? Got an 11 6.7 powerstroke that keeps shutting off while running and we can't figure out why, shuts off at highway speeds
@@eddienavarro8126 inertia switch in a ford does nothing but cut fuel, it will cause a fast crank but no start condition. You probably have a faulty bcm. You can check the bulk head plug down by the drivers side lock panel. Check for corrosion at the pins usually spotted from the back of the connector. Also a fault tow haul at the end of your shifter can cause the engine to shut off.
THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH. Exact same thing just happened to my 2014 left me stranded 5 hours from home. Dealership has been ''diagnosing'' this issue for 3 days now with no results @ $160 an hour.
I've ran into this many times on the both 6.7 and 6.2 engines. Also, the wire from bcm runs from the firewall on the a d along underneath the fan shroud up along side the head light support into a wiring support bracket. They also chafed on the backside on the support.
LOL, I am losing coolant. It's not normal. No normal culprits. It's losing small amounts. After shut down there will be pressure in the the rad the next morning when I open the de-gas the level will probably return to normal level. But was low so it's low but returns to normal when the cap is loosened and air bubbles are seen coming from the rad. ?
Having this same issue as well, 2014 f250. Is the wire at the bcm also BN/ Vt? I dont have that color at my brown bcm plug. However i do have a solid violet wire that looks like the pin corroded off the bcm side and is stuck in the brown harness connector
Did you check to see what wire was actually broken?Was it the brown/violet wire?Im having the exact same issue ..no ground firing from bcm,no power from relay to starter..My brown/violet wire is not broken though
I've got a 2013 with 240,000 miles on it with what sounds like this same problem or same symptoms anyways. We've had it to several shops and have tried ourselves for about a year. Where are you located? I'd love to have you work on this one.
I have a 2013 f250. Went in for a blower motor replacement. That's done,but now. Won't crank,heads lights come on,blower motor comes on(witch both of those are turned off). The computer screen on the dash and middle console do not come on. Battery's check good,everything is clean. Any idea what is going on?
This is my problem also but no ground on 85 and no power 86. Do you know where those wires run from the PDB? Do they go forward towards the front of the truck in that raceway or do they go back through firewall? I've heard that some of the pins in the wiring harnesses go bad too? I've been working on this darn truck for too long chasing the problem. Last night I finally found it and made jumper to 30 and 87 and bingo started right up but I want the permanent fix and also to see where the disconnect is to inspect other wires
I started my 2011 6.7 yesterday after work but forget to put the key in and press the brake, so it turned off ( happens usually) I tried to turn it on again but this time it didn't started, I could hear the diesel pump, I tried to junp it no didn't work, i get new batteries and installed them but it was the same, so I'm guessing its either the starter or maybe the pcm
1 million dollar question. My truck tests identically like this on. Going to run a new wire from fuse box to bcm. Only question for you is that is the brown violet strip wire one run from fuse box to bcm or does it stop else where?
Doesn't go anywhere else from what I can remember. Check your pin fitment for that violet wire on the plug that plugs on to the BCM. I had another one with this symptom and that's what the problem was. The pin in the plug was too loose and not making a connection when it's plugged in.
I jumped brown wire with purple strip exactly like you did in this video and it fixed my problem! Just double checking that it didn’t run anywhere else! Thank you
Alright well I’m jumping it again now before I cut into things to double check before I do it and now it’s not working. I’ll check that violet wire now. Can’t seem to find any access to wiring diagrams for anything
Where are you located at? Got a 2008 6.4 with the exact same issue. It has left me stranded MULTIPLE times. No codes though. I've taken it to several shops. Everything from New Fuel Rails, pumps, etc. All guess work. Still have the issue and have spent more than 6k to remedy it. I'd like to get mine to you depending upon where you're located.
The schematics came from Mitchell which is a service I'm subscribed too. Even if I gave you the link it wouldn't work. Lookup Mitchell DIY and you can get all of the schematics you need for $20.00
@@prodieselrepair3218 sorry about the confusion. The truck I've been working on is a 6.2l gas truck so I was asking him to see if his issue was different then yours but I will be looking at everything I seen in your video as soon as I get to work today haha. It's the best video and closest symptoms to the issue im having I've seen. And it's very informative so thank you for that.
I am having the exact same problem, but I cannot tell where in the Body Control Module (from the video) that you connected the jumper wire? I can't seem to figure out what relay was not passing a good ground and I don't have schematics. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, If the Key is on, and I put 12V on the underhood fuse 52, The truck starts until it is unconnected.. but 49-56 show a ground not a voltage, and on the BCM, I have a whole row of fuses without a voltage. It all started when I replaced my Backup Camera (which was not working) and since fuse 49 gets no juice, that is still out, but now I can't even start my truck.
I have a 2015 f250 6.2L Exact same symptoms and same readout on dash. All my lights work but won’t turn over. I was following along with your steps until you tested fuses with key on to tell you pcm relay was working. Mine isn’t showing power. Tested relay and seems to be ok. Ideas on where I should look? Seems those fuses are engine power but I’m getting no power with key on or off. Help please
The 6.2L is going to be a little bit different than this one. If you don't see power at the PCM relay like you should, then you have to find out why there's no power there. If there is power through the fuse you need to find out where you're loosing it.
Sucess! I figured it out by purchasing the same wiring diagrams you suggested. I wasn’t getting power past the PCM relay to the fuse row with 33 & 35 fuse. So I ended up dropping the fuse box and opening it up. What I found was 5 broken wires and two peanuts. Seems some rodent had found it’s way into the fuse box and chewed through the wires. I was able to strip and reconnect the wires and it fired right up. Glad you had the video or I wouldn’t have known where to start looking.
Not a bad video - how ever - The one thing that I would have also checked on is the grounds because just running a new wire and not balancing and fixing the ground - as Power flows from - to + not + to - You might be giving a fix that is only temporary where the fix might be a weak link and back feeding might happen because the system is out of balance, the Computer might detect that and fail internally. Grounding points are the first and should be always suspected in a vehicle like the one you worked on in a condition like that truck was in.
You are sort of correct. Yes the electrons do in fact actually travel from negative to positive. But does that matter? No it does not. We can design and engineer any DC elctrical componant with the idea that the flow is going to positve to negative and it will still work. There's no such thing as "balancing" or fixing one part of the circuit and not the other. In vehicles we have one (sometimes two) batteries with a positive and a ground. Everything has to start and return to that battery. There's 1000s of circuits that run of that one battery. So naturally you are going to have those cicuits, at some point, share positive and negative power.
I made the video to help. You'll need to get wiring schematics and troubleshooting info for your 2010 pickup. I can't tell you whats wrong without being able to see it. Once you get the TS info and schematics for your pick, the troubleshooting steps could be similar.
This video just saved my bacon! Literally followed you step by step and found out that I have juice flowing from the BCM to the start/run relay. Put a jumper from the battery to fuse 52 and it fired right up! Now I just need to trace the wiring and find the break. THANK YOU!
Ford took 2000 then said they couldn't fix my truck. YOUR A BADASS MAN, THANK YOU SO MUCH! I ran a hot wire to a toggle and a the fuse box under the hood and mine fired up! Thank you man for real thank you. I own a small business and this truck is detrimental to my job. It worked on a 6.2 v8 thank you!
This video helped me fix my '15 F250. Didn't have to dig nearly as much thankfully but found that the 12V constant to the starter relay was shot. As a "temp" fix I just soldered the two HOTS together on the starter relay and now everything works (for now). Figured it's relatively safe as the working HOT line was the one that has the 10A fuse so technically speaking they're both on a 10A fuse now. It is what it is but I'm happy to have a working truck again lol
Just a methodical, efficient, comprehensively thought repair, brilliant
Dude, you are my hero !!! Had the same issue and was trying to find the problem for nearly two months! Thanks a lot for such detailed video!
Just wanted to say this video was extremely helpful getting me on the right track to find the solution to this same issue with my 14 f250 6.2 gas. Mine had a stripped corroded wire on the bottom side of the fuse block that basically killed the power to the row of fuses behind the relay discussed in the video. I had enough room to cut it and repair it and the truck runs like it should now. Thanks for making such a detailed video!!!
Thank you! Was having the same issue with the F350 here at work. I need to get a better diag tool, and access to electrical schematics. If not for your video, I'd still be banging my head against the wall! Now i need to decide whether to just run a wire, or actually go through the harness and find the open circuit...
I have a 2011 f450 and the brown with violet stripe wire was broke/ chafed about 6” out of the junction box. Thank you so much for putting out a decent tutorial on the diagnosis.
Hey buddy, how did you fix that?
Thanks
Great video, I was looking to fix my PATS system in my truck and came across this video. Very helpful for those having that problem. Mine is a no crank no start situation ill keep looking hopefully I find the reason why.
Hey, Great video. really helped me along with mine with the same no crank issue. My truck wasn't actually the ground control side of the relay but was the power supply side "jumper" to the relay under the fuse block. it has corroded from and also very melted ac compressor clutch feed wire from the next fuse over. #47 I believe.
probally see a lot of this on older SD's
thx again!!😊
😊 My 2012 f350 had the same problem and after watching your video I was able to isolate the problem to the relay. Removed relay and it failed test so I got a new relay and the truck works like new. I never would have even able to determine anything about which relay or even if it was a relay. I checked the voltage on the same fuses you talked about and found no power our of the relay. Thank you
First check the fuel pump reset switch located on the passenger side of the front seat by the right foot. 9 times out of 10 it's that switch.. It won't throw a code if that's the problem.
This comment saved my husband’s blood pressure today, thank you!
Normally that cause and crank no start not a no start no crank.
What symptoms would you have if you had a bad fuel shut off switch? Would it not run at all? Got an 11 6.7 powerstroke that keeps shutting off while running and we can't figure out why, shuts off at highway speeds
@@eddienavarro8126 inertia switch in a ford does nothing but cut fuel, it will cause a fast crank but no start condition. You probably have a faulty bcm. You can check the bulk head plug down by the drivers side lock panel. Check for corrosion at the pins usually spotted from the back of the connector. Also a fault tow haul at the end of your shifter can cause the engine to shut off.
THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH. Exact same thing just happened to my 2014 left me stranded 5 hours from home. Dealership has been ''diagnosing'' this issue for 3 days now with no results @ $160 an hour.
Tell them to check the pins on the plugs that plug into the BCM (passenger side kick panel). The pin fitment can get loose and cause this problem.
I've ran into this many times on the both 6.7 and 6.2 engines. Also, the wire from bcm runs from the firewall on the a d along underneath the fan shroud up along side the head light support into a wiring support bracket. They also chafed on the backside on the support.
Nice going on the video description appreciate it
Very detailed video thank you!
You have amazing videos they help
Have you ever seen that?Your running lights go off and your fuse.Pops does that have anything to do with it
LOL, I am losing coolant. It's not normal. No normal culprits. It's losing small amounts. After shut down there will be pressure in the the rad the next morning when I open the de-gas the level will probably return to normal level. But was low so it's low but returns to normal when the cap is loosened and air bubbles are seen coming from the rad. ?
I’m pretty sure that my truck has the same problem it’s a Ford F-250 2008 how can I fix it!!
What did you hook it up to in the body control?You show a wire but it doesn't show where you hooked it
brown with violet stripe as he stated
Having this same issue as well, 2014 f250. Is the wire at the bcm also BN/ Vt? I dont have that color at my brown bcm plug. However i do have a solid violet wire that looks like the pin corroded off the bcm side and is stuck in the brown harness connector
Did the ground on fuse#48 that you rewired fix the blower motor fault as well?
Man I'm trying to fix this right now... trying to figure out exactly how to run that wire
How did you go about getting the schematics of the truck??
Did you check to see what wire was actually broken?Was it the brown/violet wire?Im having the exact same issue ..no ground firing from bcm,no power from relay to starter..My brown/violet wire is not broken though
I've got a 2013 with 240,000 miles on it with what sounds like this same problem or same symptoms anyways. We've had it to several shops and have tried ourselves for about a year. Where are you located? I'd love to have you work on this one.
Southwest Idaho.
I have a 2013 f250. Went in for a blower motor replacement. That's done,but now. Won't crank,heads lights come on,blower motor comes on(witch both of those are turned off). The computer screen on the dash and middle console do not come on. Battery's check good,everything is clean. Any idea what is going on?
Can you send me the link for the scanner you have and how much it costs??
This is my problem also but no ground on 85 and no power 86. Do you know where those wires run from the PDB? Do they go forward towards the front of the truck in that raceway or do they go back through firewall? I've heard that some of the pins in the wiring harnesses go bad too? I've been working on this darn truck for too long chasing the problem. Last night I finally found it and made jumper to 30 and 87 and bingo started right up but I want the permanent fix and also to see where the disconnect is to inspect other wires
Did you figure it out
I started my 2011 6.7 yesterday after work but forget to put the key in and press the brake, so it turned off ( happens usually) I tried to turn it on again but this time it didn't started, I could hear the diesel pump, I tried to junp it no didn't work, i get new batteries and installed them but it was the same, so I'm guessing its either the starter or maybe the pcm
1 million dollar question. My truck tests identically like this on. Going to run a new wire from fuse box to bcm. Only question for you is that is the brown violet strip wire one run from fuse box to bcm or does it stop else where?
Doesn't go anywhere else from what I can remember. Check your pin fitment for that violet wire on the plug that plugs on to the BCM. I had another one with this symptom and that's what the problem was. The pin in the plug was too loose and not making a connection when it's plugged in.
I jumped brown wire with purple strip exactly like you did in this video and it fixed my problem! Just double checking that it didn’t run anywhere else! Thank you
Alright well I’m jumping it again now before I cut into things to double check before I do it and now it’s not working. I’ll check that violet wire now. Can’t seem to find any access to wiring diagrams for anything
Where are you located at? Got a 2008 6.4 with the exact same issue. It has left me stranded MULTIPLE times. No codes though. I've taken it to several shops. Everything from New Fuel Rails, pumps, etc. All guess work. Still have the issue and have spent more than 6k to remedy it. I'd like to get mine to you depending upon where you're located.
@@ronthompson3328 I'm in Southwest Idaho
@@prodieselrepair3218 Dang it! That's a far cry from Kentucky! Not 100% ruled out though.....just sayin'
@Prodieselrepair
@10:35 can you please throw the link to the schematics? I believe I have the same exact issue. 2011 f250 6.2L. No crank no start.
The schematics came from Mitchell which is a service I'm subscribed too. Even if I gave you the link it wouldn't work. Lookup Mitchell DIY and you can get all of the schematics you need for $20.00
Did you end up finding the problem? I'm having the same issue with a 2016 f250 with a 6.2L
@@earlporch7486 I guess you didn't watch the whole video? Yes I found the problem.
@@prodieselrepair3218 no I did I was asking another guy who commented if he found what was causing his issue.
@@prodieselrepair3218 sorry about the confusion. The truck I've been working on is a 6.2l gas truck so I was asking him to see if his issue was different then yours but I will be looking at everything I seen in your video as soon as I get to work today haha. It's the best video and closest symptoms to the issue im having I've seen. And it's very informative so thank you for that.
I am having the exact same problem, but I cannot tell where in the Body Control Module (from the video) that you connected the jumper wire? I can't seem to figure out what relay was not passing a good ground and I don't have schematics. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, If the Key is on, and I put 12V on the underhood fuse 52, The truck starts until it is unconnected.. but 49-56 show a ground not a voltage, and on the BCM, I have a whole row of fuses without a voltage. It all started when I replaced my Backup Camera (which was not working) and since fuse 49 gets no juice, that is still out, but now I can't even start my truck.
Also if you don't mind me asking was there a clicking sound coming from the bcm with the key off and out of the ignition?
Because that's another thing this one is doing.
Well did that fix the running light in the front also?
No it didn't. The customer didn't want to pay to fugure it out.
I have a 2015 f250 6.2L Exact same symptoms and same readout on dash. All my lights work but won’t turn over. I was following along with your steps until you tested fuses with key on to tell you pcm relay was working. Mine isn’t showing power. Tested relay and seems to be ok. Ideas on where I should look? Seems those fuses are engine power but I’m getting no power with key on or off. Help please
The 6.2L is going to be a little bit different than this one. If you don't see power at the PCM relay like you should, then you have to find out why there's no power there. If there is power through the fuse you need to find out where you're loosing it.
Sucess! I figured it out by purchasing the same wiring diagrams you suggested. I wasn’t getting power past the PCM relay to the fuse row with 33 & 35 fuse. So I ended up dropping the fuse box and opening it up. What I found was 5 broken wires and two peanuts. Seems some rodent had found it’s way into the fuse box and chewed through the wires. I was able to strip and reconnect the wires and it fired right up. Glad you had the video or I wouldn’t have known where to start looking.
@@davidbone4230 glad you're back on the road
Mine was the. Starter relay
Man your Awesome
Not a bad video - how ever - The one thing that I would have also checked on is the grounds because just running a new wire and not balancing and fixing the ground - as Power flows from - to + not + to - You might be giving a fix that is only temporary where the fix might be a weak link and back feeding might happen because the system is out of balance, the Computer might detect that and fail internally. Grounding points are the first and should be always suspected in a vehicle like the one you worked on in a condition like that truck was in.
You are sort of correct. Yes the electrons do in fact actually travel from negative to positive. But does that matter? No it does not. We can design and engineer any DC elctrical componant with the idea that the flow is going to positve to negative and it will still work. There's no such thing as "balancing" or fixing one part of the circuit and not the other. In vehicles we have one (sometimes two) batteries with a positive and a ground. Everything has to start and return to that battery. There's 1000s of circuits that run of that one battery. So naturally you are going to have those cicuits, at some point, share positive and negative power.
I am having issues with my 2010 6.4 no crank no start issue was driving and it just shut down can you help
I made the video to help. You'll need to get wiring schematics and troubleshooting info for your 2010 pickup. I can't tell you whats wrong without being able to see it. Once you get the TS info and schematics for your pick, the troubleshooting steps could be similar.
mine did the same but currently cranking so cant diagnose until it quits again
I had one that had loose pin connections on the Body Control Module. Thats the fuse/module inside the passenger side kick panel.
@@prodieselrepair3218 thanks, I'll try that next
Need this guy to look at my truck 😂