Thanks for the video. Ive a new to me 6hp28 that had done 165k miles without a service. I serviced it along with bridge seal and sleeves, all new ZF parts and fluid. The old fluid had a burned smell. I went ahead with the service anyway. I did not reset adaptations. Everything went ok and the shifting noticeably improved. A few weeks later I was on a long drive and would have been in 6th doing approx 60mph for extended period. I slowed down for a junction and noticed a burned clutch smell, a car behind me flashed me and said my car stinks of burned clutch! The smell dissapeared pretty quickly and the gearbox shifted perfectly fine at all times, i never noticed any shifting problems at all. I rechecked for leaks and there were none, fluid level is perfect, drips at 40c. I assume there is internal damage, just wondering from your experience, what causes these transmissions to burn the fluid? I am a mechanic but ive never dealt with these zfs beyond a service! Any response appreciated!
Thanks for watching. I would not have serviced it under those circumstances. These along with all the 6HP variants have bushing wear issues that cause the torque converter to slip and burn the fluid. They have valve body issues also. I have been able to the valve body so far with the Sonnax Zip kit. Probably going to need at least that along with a bushing kit , filter, torque converter and rebuild kit with clutches. Maybe steels also. Won't know till you get in there.
Hey Tom! Thanks so much for the video, I've learned so much from it! Quick question for you, around 18:03, you show us the disassembly of the regular and balance piston. Do you need to compress the small piston to get the second snap ring out....or better yet, if a first-timer like myself used my spring press to compress the piston down to get the snap ring off...and perhaps it made a popping noise...do you think I killed both pistons? (nothing appears cracked, but there are 6 little "feet" on the underside of the piston that may now be damaged?) or does it have just a little movement and was just stuck? Cause I totally couldn't get the snap ring off from around the shaft, but inside those fingers without releasing a micro amount of pressure on it...totally didn't think I was cranking down that hard!!!! FYI, I had already removed the bellvelle plate and first snap ring... Thanks, and I'm bracing for the worst!
It must have been stuck because you usually can push it down by hand. If you want to take some pictures and send them to me on my Instagram I will take a look at them. It won't let you do it here.
I have 2010 BMW 550i M-sport package with 6HP28 Auto transmission. Two years ago, transmission was rebuilt, but shifting problems on the hill road if car stop and go, between second and third gear not fix. Transmission service guy say: it is some miscommunication between transmission and ECU, or bad O2 sensors, scan not have any errors. Did you have any idea how to resolve this problem? Thank you
Hi there. We have a jaguar xf with the 6hp-28 that keeps flaging up p2704 friction element e apply time and it then goes into limp mode. So far we have put new Clutches and bushings and accumulators new filter and oil. Any suggestions ? Thanks
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Hi thanks for the reply. Before we done the work it would neutral out like rev up and no power at all and a p0735 and the p2704 ,Then you had to pull to the side of the road and cycle the ignition. Now it just throws the code p2704 and goes in limp mode. Also quite a bit of flare between I think 3 and 4th gear. Many thanks for taking your time. Appreciated.
The planet will strip out the splines and give you a neutral condition when it shifts. There is also a tube in the back of the E drum that can give you that code. A worn bushing on the rear of the stator can give you a flare shift and that code also. Bushings are super critical in these units. Especially in the pump.
Hey Tom, greetings from Germany! Can you tell me what that thin rod is, right underneath the valve body? Is that the gearshift? I want to swap my 6HP26 for a 6HP28 and just noticed that (for BMW) there are ones with electronic gearshift and ones with cable pull to change gears. Both, my 26 and 28 have these rods but I'm still not to sure whether I bought the right transmission or not. Thank you!
It is the park rod. They will both have it. The cable shift one will have quadrants on the selector shaft. The electronic one will have an extremely strong spring on it and only 1 position.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you for your answer Sir. Do you think it's possible to swap these rods? Or is there something fundamentally different in the 6HP28 so that it won't work? I'm really disappointed that I made this mistake...
Awesome!! Can’t wait to see the reassembly of this transmission 👍🏽 your transmission content is bad ass!
Thanks! Did not get to rebuild it but still some good info. ruclips.net/video/L_kf5EoJKUs/видео.html
Thanks for the video. Ive a new to me 6hp28 that had done 165k miles without a service. I serviced it along with bridge seal and sleeves, all new ZF parts and fluid. The old fluid had a burned smell. I went ahead with the service anyway. I did not reset adaptations.
Everything went ok and the shifting noticeably improved. A few weeks later I was on a long drive and would have been in 6th doing approx 60mph for extended period. I slowed down for a junction and noticed a burned clutch smell, a car behind me flashed me and said my car stinks of burned clutch! The smell dissapeared pretty quickly and the gearbox shifted perfectly fine at all times, i never noticed any shifting problems at all. I rechecked for leaks and there were none, fluid level is perfect, drips at 40c.
I assume there is internal damage, just wondering from your experience, what causes these transmissions to burn the fluid? I am a mechanic but ive never dealt with these zfs beyond a service! Any response appreciated!
Thanks for watching. I would not have serviced it under those circumstances. These along with all the 6HP variants have bushing wear issues that cause the torque converter to slip and burn the fluid. They have valve body issues also. I have been able to the valve body so far with the Sonnax Zip kit. Probably going to need at least that along with a bushing kit , filter, torque converter and rebuild kit with clutches. Maybe steels also. Won't know till you get in there.
Muchas Gracias amigazo, excelente sus aportaciones, Gracias 👍
Thank you.
Obrigado pelo video!
Thanks for watching.
Is it possible to remove the pump assembly without taking the valve body off?
No it is not.
Hey Tom! Thanks so much for the video, I've learned so much from it! Quick question for you, around 18:03, you show us the disassembly of the regular and balance piston. Do you need to compress the small piston to get the second snap ring out....or better yet, if a first-timer like myself used my spring press to compress the piston down to get the snap ring off...and perhaps it made a popping noise...do you think I killed both pistons? (nothing appears cracked, but there are 6 little "feet" on the underside of the piston that may now be damaged?) or does it have just a little movement and was just stuck? Cause I totally couldn't get the snap ring off from around the shaft, but inside those fingers without releasing a micro amount of pressure on it...totally didn't think I was cranking down that hard!!!! FYI, I had already removed the bellvelle plate and first snap ring...
Thanks, and I'm bracing for the worst!
It must have been stuck because you usually can push it down by hand. If you want to take some pictures and send them to me on my Instagram I will take a look at them. It won't let you do it here.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks! Will do!
I have 2010 BMW 550i M-sport package with 6HP28 Auto transmission.
Two years ago, transmission was rebuilt, but shifting problems on the hill road if car stop and go, between second and third gear not fix.
Transmission service guy say: it is some miscommunication between transmission and ECU, or bad O2 sensors, scan not have any errors.
Did you have any idea how to resolve this problem?
Thank you
It would be a guess without being able to check it out. But I would bet it is a valve body and/or solenoid problem.
Hi there. We have a jaguar xf with the 6hp-28 that keeps flaging up p2704 friction element e apply time and it then goes into limp mode. So far we have put new Clutches and bushings and accumulators new filter and oil. Any suggestions ? Thanks
Does it neutral out when it shifts or just throw that code?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Hi thanks for the reply. Before we done the work it would neutral out like rev up and no power at all and a p0735 and the p2704 ,Then you had to pull to the side of the road and cycle the ignition. Now it just throws the code p2704 and goes in limp mode. Also quite a bit of flare between I think 3 and 4th gear. Many thanks for taking your time. Appreciated.
The planet will strip out the splines and give you a neutral condition when it shifts. There is also a tube in the back of the E drum that can give you that code. A worn bushing on the rear of the stator can give you a flare shift and that code also. Bushings are super critical in these units. Especially in the pump.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission The strange thing is that it doesn't always do it. Thanks again.
Then I might lean to a valve body or solenoid problem.
Hey Tom, greetings from Germany! Can you tell me what that thin rod is, right underneath the valve body? Is that the gearshift? I want to swap my 6HP26 for a 6HP28 and just noticed that (for BMW) there are ones with electronic gearshift and ones with cable pull to change gears. Both, my 26 and 28 have these rods but I'm still not to sure whether I bought the right transmission or not. Thank you!
It is the park rod. They will both have it. The cable shift one will have quadrants on the selector shaft. The electronic one will have an extremely strong spring on it and only 1 position.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you for your answer Sir. Do you think it's possible to swap these rods? Or is there something fundamentally different in the 6HP28 so that it won't work?
I'm really disappointed that I made this mistake...
I don't know for a fact. The 26 is first generation and the 28 is second so there may be a chance it is different.
@@temporaer How did the swap work out for you?
Good job, is sonnax zip required? Or can be normal oem parts
Thanks. You are going to need to address the valve body problems. So either a Zip kit or new Valve Body.
which car has the ZF6HP 28 IN?
Type in ZF6HP28 in the search bar and look at the Wikipedia page. Scroll to the bottom and it lists the vehicles it comes in. Thanks for watching.
Good
Thanks