2008 CADILLAC CTS 3.6 TIMING CHAIN REPAIR PART 1 | GM 3.6 TIMING CHAIN GUIDE
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- In this part one of 2 videos i show step by step what to take apart in order to access and replace your timing chains this will work for any gm 3.6 motor.
Stay tuned for many great videos to come please also check out my main channel where I mess with some crazy wasp and hornet nests
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Dude, thank you so much for making this video! elbow deep in moms 2010 CTS 3.0 that had the oil down to 1 qt and this is the closest video I could find. Fortunately, the two engines are close enough that your walkthrough has been invaluable.
How many miles was on it before you changed the timing chains?
WOW! Nice job. Not sure if my timing chain is starting to go or it's something else but I just heard some noise today that doesn't sound too good. I didn't see any engine codes so I'm wondering maybe if it's more of a lifter noise or something. Don't really want to drive anywhere in case it is the timing chain. Is there any other possible way to diagnose without having to actually go through all that to find out?
Thanks!
On the passenger side by the fuel rail there is a purge vent canister. They are pretty known for making a tapping sound when they start to go. It’s on the passenger side on the valve cover it has a electrical plug also try to find that and see if the sound is coming from it.
@@biddy98gst Thanks for the reply. So I went to my mechanic this morning to see if he could confirm that the timing belt might be going but he says the sound is coming from the back of the engine and it could be something in the engine like a piston or something. So I figure, I will do some checking around the engine to see. Funny thing you mentioned about the purge vent canister. When I first bought the car it would have a little difficulty starting after fuel up. I ended up replacing that myself after watching some videos on RUclips and that solved that problem last year. I will look at it again cuz maybe there is a vacuum leak crack in the hose. I did notice when I got back home I was touching the canister while the engine was running and it seemed to be vibrating but not sure if that's normal or not. Anyways I will look at it some more and I suppose if I need to, I will just remove all the stuff like in your video up to the valve cover removal and get a better idea if it's something there is loose perhaps like a rocker arm or something. Thanks!
Cardiacs 😂😂😂😂 no wonder Scotty Kilmer is always bashing GM.
the problem is that if you search his page he will have videos saying the same thing is good too.
I appreciate the vid. I have a 3.6 in a 2011 Caravan with 330K mi. I hear cam or chain noise when cold on the read bank. I thought it would be bad rocker rollers but not so. I wondering if its a worn chain. I have the cover off and wanted to look down at the tensioners to determine what exposed length of plunger is good or bad. If the chains are worn, I've been dreaming about working up a pair of bars made on a bracket that holds the chain against one of the cam sprockets. Then. assuming it can be done, breaking the chain, and then temporally linking it to a new chain, releasing the tensioner and then turn the engine over until the new chain is pulled in and the old chain fed out. Then reconnecting the new chain ends and either repeining it or welding the pins back in place. If I did that, it would be important to know that the guides are not worn out. You video does a fair to good job of letting me see what wear is on what parts. For instance, I would not be changing the primary chain (lower). Best I can tell in your vid, the lower chain seems to be in fair condition. I need to get an old chain and a chain breaker and test out the process before I commit to it.
OK, It was late and I was glazing over. I realized this is a GM and I've got a Chrysler 3.6. Similar arrangement but the specifics do not apply. My bad. Still good vid and nice work.
what mileage to go head and change the timing?
Mine were originally done at the dealer at 74k I did the second time after warranty was expired at 169k
The reason the one on the passenger side is looser is because that side has the restricted pcv valve, also notice how much darker that side is. That’s the side not getting oil
The funny part is the updated valve cover gaskets actually restrict the pcv flow more then the original ones not sure how the updated gaskets help and not hurt it more lol
So pumped you're doing this!
I have one extra bolt any ideas 🤣 looks like the long power steering 🔩 bolt 15 mil long bolt
I don't know how to add a pic?
NM figured it out it was alternator lol
You are a godsend bro i need this video!
what do you think about just replacing the chain on Bank1 (8:39) ?
p0017 is only message for Bank1 side and it means the chain on bank1 is loosened and need to be replaced.
It does not require changing bank2 and the bottom chain.
If my guess is right, a lot of work after this can be avoidable..
Can you tell me what you think my presupposition ?
.
I don’t see why it wouldn’t work. I would also replace the tensioner from my experience if the chain is stretched it would throw the code for both vvt sensors on that side, when only 1 is reading off and not the other on the same head it’s due to the tensioner being stuck and not allowing proper slack
How many miles are on this car?
Just curious because I have a 2011 3.6 cts
It had 170k when the chains were done 181k now
Great detail here. Thanks. I had a coolant leak and that cover behind the harmonic balancer was holding a lot of coolant. The was thinking that there was a seal leaking but it looks like the water pump just soaked that thing. Appreciate the detail you put into this video.
No problem glad I could help
Doing this job on the same year . Has a hitting noise coming from the right side front cover has codes P0019 & P0021
Sounds like the same as mine but the other side mine was passenger side. The tensioner probably got stuck like mine did.
@@biddy98gst mines coming from the passenger as well sorry if I had it mixed up
First. I had a 1.8t vw. Kevlar timing belt went bad and sheered the teeth off the belt causing the interference design to smack my pistons into my valves. Luckily I was not in full boost and 2300 rpm and light on throttle at the time of breaking. No scared postons. I only needed to get the remachined head. 2200 bucks later.
Yeah this Cadillac is a interference motor also they are terrible is the timing jumps, this is my wife’s car she got a code saying the chains were stretched so I jumped right into the repair with these motors wait too long and like you said your pistons gonna crush all the valves
@@biddy98gst Kevlar was a shit design on vws part. They said replace every 150kmiles but ppl were popping motors at 75. It'd be sweet if we could convert to a chain.
@@biddy98gst yeah thats the why chains are best they just stretch most of the time. Didnt know they had sensors for that though. That's crazy
The Cadillac is crazy with the chains 4 cam posistion sensors and 4 vvt sensors. My eclipse I’m building is gonna have a Kevlar hks belt in it as well, I don’t mind the belts too much they are much easier to change chains are more reliable unless you get my wife’s Cadillac they need new chains every 50-70k
Sorry logged into my main profile gotta switch back to WH garage lol
Godsend!!! Subbed
I'm so pleased to be able to watch this video! With a laugh 😂😂😂 Because I heard my dads😂 cussing throughout 🤣 and hell YEAH 😂 that's how it be. We appreciate all you've shown 🙌🏼 us. Very detailed. Loved it!! 💯💣💥
Thank you so much.....
We have the exact same problem.
one more quesiton, did you drain the engine oil before you did all this job ?
I actually drained it after I got it all apart because allot of the coolant gets in the pan after you remove the water pump
It is in my belief since oil is lighter than coolant that if you leave the oil in pan it will float on top and help push any coolant out of the oil pan when the job is done. I still pour about 2 quarts of oil with the plug out just to see clean oil come out.
Which hole does driver side tensioner go in like what angle
I got both P0008 and p0016 any suggestions? Only thing noticeable is rough idle
Is this a very hard job?
It took around 8-12 hours deff not to be taken lightly but not impossible, ours has ran great ever since the repair
Добрый день) подскажите пожалуйста, можно ли снять головку блока цилиндров не снимая мотора?
Are these cars junk?
the problem is that the System in the car which tells you to change your oil doesn't do it until the oil is too low since it is measuring viscosity and ignoring oil level. You naturally burn oil with this design and its fine if you change your oil every 5k. This issue is usually on the earlier Ly7 engines, it gets better after 2009. This is just from what I have been studying, I am about to attempt the repair myself.
I’m actually gonna post my second chains on this car video in the next few days we change oil every 3500 miles full synthetic only also these chains lasted 74k miles after this video before I got the correlation codes again
Can u name the engine parts I need to have to replace the timing chain. ? Thank u and what tools I need as well
Thanks for the video, do you have a parts list for this?
I used the cloyes 90753sx kit for my timing kit,
The mahle jv5178 timing gasket kit
The ac delco upper and lower intake gaskets part#12691199
And felpro valve cover gaskets #vs50808r
I ordered all my parts on rockauto everything togeather came out less then the cloyes kit alone at my local parts store
Thank you!!
i’m getting the p0008 code with only 71k miles, rough idle, shifting hard, poor acceleration could it be something else?
The vvt sensors can fail and throw the code also they are not as common as the chains though I believe
I wrecked my 2011 STS 3.6 LLT so I went bought a 2008 CTS LY7 beautiful car with a blown engine...I was just gonna swap out the motor and transmission from the STS to the CTS.Will that work?
It should be the same motor wise not sure about transmission wise though
I'm not experienced so I've been trying to follow my Chiltons to a T... I have an 09 CTS 3.6... doing the same thing, I'm finally to the crank pulley, and you didn't have to wedge a prybar in the flywheel to get that crank bolt out? An impact wrench will do it just fine? I started to back mine out with a breaker bar and it rotated my crank about 10° and I stopped and put rotated it back 😅 glad it was marked and I took pics before hand
Yes I used a impact wrench to take it on and off. I also had camshaft locks on the cams to keep them from rotating.
None of the bolts that came with the pully puller fits to take off the harmonic balancer. What size did you use? I tried a 8mm-1.25 but it didn't work... maybe the thread count was wrong
If I remember correctly I used random bolts I had laying around with the same issue
I have the same year and model and it has the same p0008 code and have been needing to do this job but I don't have any experience but after watching the two videos you made I understand it a lot more so thank you. I've been needing to find a good kit that wont break though, don't know what to trust online
I ordered mine on rock auto. I went with the cloyes kit as they have been making timing chains for over 100 years and the most reputable chain maker there is. They are a little more then the oem chains on rockauto but well worth the extra in quality we’re over 2 years and 30k on these chains no issues so far
@@biddy98gst thank you. I’ll definitely go with the cloyes kit and trust that it will all go well and I can enjoy my car again
foul mouth ruins it for me.
If you don’t curse while working on a car, you haven’t worked on it yet
Agreed it’s part of working on cars
🤣🤣