A very good video. Thanks. I have been using one of these for about 15 years (it's not mine but belongs to a friend who was silly enough to let his wife store a "few bits and bobs" in his workshop so it has lived in my workshop ever since). Having learned on Chipmasters and L5s it felt like there wasn't enough room to do anything but I have grown to really like it. HSS tooling kept razor sharp and the acceptance that moving a lot of steel takes a long time are the main things to remember. I have only blown the fuse twice (it's 2A BTW) and both time during parting off (not a mini lathe's strong point!)
Hi Paul. Thanks for your helpful series on this Clarke CL300M which I am considering as a first lathe purchase. The problem I have is space - must be set-up in my single car garage which must also house my car. The car can easily be removed when using the lathe but I've determined that I'd be limited to a heavy duty shelf, yet to be installed, that protrudes from the wall by a maximum of 14" / 36 cms. The length of the shelf is not going to be a problem but the 14" depth is pretty much it. Apart from the CL300M and equivalents from other Chinese branded sources, I was looking at the Proxxon PD 250/E. This is a significantly lighter and more expensive machine from a German manufacturer known for its quality products. The quoted (LxWxH) size for the PD 250/E is 56x27x17 cms and its tray is 55x23x17.5 cms. The machine as supplied weighs only 12.5 kg. I reckon the shelf idea for using and storing this one would work. But, I am now wondering about the CL300M as an alternative - a less expensive and more solid and heavier machine at 40 kg and 82x29.5x30. This is only 2.5 cms wider (i.e. deeper) than the Proxxon and I assume that the figures quoted are for the maximum extremities including handwheels? Nothing must protrude beyond 14" / 36cms and there would be a solid wall at the rear - so no access without moving the machine. Do you have any views on this - specifically would the shelf idea be workable, i.e. depth-wise? Any pointers would be appreciated as having the use of a lathe would be great - I'm spending way too much getting others to make the simplest of parts for my Stuart Models steam engines.
I've just measured the lathe. A shelf depth of 14' to the wall would be enough. The shelf would need all of that 14" to be solid. It is on four rubber blocks so it does flex slightly perhaps 1/2" or so under torque. Your 14" gives you that much. Rigidity and level surface, are important....and 'spirit level'. The weight of a lathe gives you an indication of how much solid metal it contains. So the heavier the better in my view. The Clarke CL300M is good in that respect. A working length I would say a minimum of 36". More if you want to turn the end of say a n 18" rod. I've worked on many surfaces. If your shelf can take your weight it would be sturdy enough. Build a box rather than just a shelf...i.e. 3 sides to the floor rather than legs and a central strengthener would be advised. Easy enough to make. Hope that helps?
@@matthewbirkeland-green4356 Thanks again for a very quick reply - and yes, helpful. I guess the power cable enters at the back so will need to accommodate this. A bench even at only 14" depth would be best but the need to get nice unmarked car reliably in and out of the garage means the shelf would be more likely as windows are steeply raked. I reckon with HD 30cms brackets spaced about every 18" and 22-25 mm plywood for the shelf I should be in business.
You need to have a milling setup and on the CL300M that is a lot of setting up. There is no off the shelf milling attachments. Many of the parts you will need to make yourself. As I mentioned in other videos. If I'm doing some milling I will film it though.
I have used mine for repairing the money transport systems in ATMs and the accuracy is not in question. The cog belt is moderately expensive so I made pulleys to utilize ribbed belts so that as the belts stretch, you can adjust the tension. When the cog belts stretch they will jump the cogs and wear out the pulley. If you make the ribbed belt pulleys before the cog belt wears out, it will not be a problem. Otherwise you will need a second lathe to make them. I own many lathes and find the Clarke the one I go to first for small jobs.
Thanks Paul, I know I asked you on a previous video about boring out stainless steel pipe wall from 1.5 mm to 0.5mm, the pipe being 50mm wide and 100mm long and I would need to go in 45mm deep. It wouldn’t be an everyday thing but maybe two pipes a couple of times a week. You said keeping the pipe steady was the difficult thing and stainless being so hard. Do you think it’s possible though? The rest of the time I would be using it for making bits and pieces on old bikes. I don’t want to spend money on one if it won’t do the stainless pipes though. I have limited space and it’s seems perfect. Thanks again Glyn.
This is my opinion Glyn. The lathe could hold the metal tube with the outside jaws of the 3 jaw chuck, and you bore it out with a suitable tool. The lathe is certainly powerful and accurate enough. The problem is holding the work securely so far out of the chuck. You would need to make a 'steady' to hold the tube while it was being bored out. I'm not sure that the Clarke accessory steady would be wide enough? That would be a problem for any lathe with a chuck bore of less than your tube.
Paul Birkeland-Green I understand what you mean, going at it from a different angle , what if is was a stainless pipe 50mm wide and as long as it could be to be secured at both end and machined/ turned from the outside then cut to 100mm lengths afterwards.
Sorry to be a complete numpty but I’ve never used a lathe. If that was possible with a good cutting tool would it be a nice smooth finish on the outside. I don’t mind if it took a few passes to take 1/2mm to 1mm thickness out and be left with approx 3/4 mm thickness. Thanks Glyn.
@@glynharding8109 Stainless is not recomnended for beginners to the lathe. It requires very good cutting tools and feed. To get a good finish is difficult. Have a look at this, it might be helpful. ruclips.net/video/IJciY4dZmDg/видео.html
Paul Birkeland-Green that’s a good video Paul. He gave that stainless a serious going over! Well I’ve taken the plunge and bought one. It should be delivered on the 16th of this month. I will try not to bother you. Could you recommend some good tools to go with it and possibly a good book to help me please. Thanks Glyn.
The one I use dates from 2001 so they may have changed but it has plastic screwcutting gears and back gear. This has never caused any trouble as I treat it very gently.
It's Imperial. The leadscrew can be changed to metric, and the gears for metric came with it. The Metric leadscrew is an extra. Not hard to change over.
Well presented and explained. I'm looking to buy a mini-lathe, and am now leaning towards this one...
Great video, all the info I needed to make my decision very well presented. Thank you!
A very good video. Thanks. I have been using one of these for about 15 years (it's not mine but belongs to a friend who was silly enough to let his wife store a "few bits and bobs" in his workshop so it has lived in my workshop ever since). Having learned on Chipmasters and L5s it felt like there wasn't enough room to do anything but I have grown to really like it. HSS tooling kept razor sharp and the acceptance that moving a lot of steel takes a long time are the main things to remember. I have only blown the fuse twice (it's 2A BTW) and both time during parting off (not a mini lathe's strong point!)
A nice review, thanks for sharing 👍
Hi Paul. Thanks for your helpful series on this Clarke CL300M which I am considering as a first lathe purchase. The problem I have is space - must be set-up in my single car garage which must also house my car. The car can easily be removed when using the lathe but I've determined that I'd be limited to a heavy duty shelf, yet to be installed, that protrudes from the wall by a maximum of 14" / 36 cms. The length of the shelf is not going to be a problem but the 14" depth is pretty much it. Apart from the CL300M and equivalents from other Chinese branded sources, I was looking at the Proxxon PD 250/E. This is a significantly lighter and more expensive machine from a German manufacturer known for its quality products. The quoted (LxWxH) size for the PD 250/E is 56x27x17 cms and its tray is 55x23x17.5 cms. The machine as supplied weighs only 12.5 kg. I reckon the shelf idea for using and storing this one would work. But, I am now wondering about the CL300M as an alternative - a less expensive and more solid and heavier machine at 40 kg and 82x29.5x30. This is only 2.5 cms wider (i.e. deeper) than the Proxxon and I assume that the figures quoted are for the maximum extremities including handwheels? Nothing must protrude beyond 14" / 36cms and there would be a solid wall at the rear - so no access without moving the machine. Do you have any views on this - specifically would the shelf idea be workable, i.e. depth-wise? Any pointers would be appreciated as having the use of a lathe would be great - I'm spending way too much getting others to make the simplest of parts for my Stuart Models steam engines.
I've just measured the lathe. A shelf depth of 14' to the wall would be enough. The shelf would need all of that 14" to be solid. It is on four rubber blocks so it does flex slightly perhaps 1/2" or so under torque. Your 14" gives you that much. Rigidity and level surface, are important....and 'spirit level'. The weight of a lathe gives you an indication of how much solid metal it contains. So the heavier the better in my view. The Clarke CL300M is good in that respect. A working length I would say a minimum of 36". More if you want to turn the end of say a n 18" rod. I've worked on many surfaces. If your shelf can take your weight it would be sturdy enough. Build a box rather than just a shelf...i.e. 3 sides to the floor rather than legs and a central strengthener would be advised. Easy enough to make. Hope that helps?
@@matthewbirkeland-green4356 Thanks again for a very quick reply - and yes, helpful. I guess the power cable enters at the back so will need to accommodate this. A bench even at only 14" depth would be best but the need to get nice unmarked car reliably in and out of the garage means the shelf would be more likely as windows are steeply raked. I reckon with HD 30cms brackets spaced about every 18" and 22-25 mm plywood for the shelf I should be in business.
@@edwardtucker9785 I allowed for the cable, you'll have to bend it down abit but not excessively.
@@matthewbirkeland-green4356 Excellent - thanks again.
I have the 2019 model. looks same , and it has overload feature,
Could you do a vid of milling and how you setup to do it.
You need to have a milling setup and on the CL300M that is a lot of setting up. There is no off the shelf milling attachments. Many of the parts you will need to make yourself. As I mentioned in other videos. If I'm doing some milling I will film it though.
Hi where can I get the milling attachment for the cl300m,thanks Chris
I have used mine for repairing the money transport systems in ATMs and the accuracy is not in question. The cog belt is moderately expensive so I made pulleys to utilize ribbed belts so that as the belts stretch, you can adjust the tension. When the cog belts stretch they will jump the cogs and wear out the pulley. If you make the ribbed belt pulleys before the cog belt wears out, it will not be a problem. Otherwise you will need a second lathe to make them. I own many lathes and find the Clarke the one I go to first for small jobs.
Thanks Paul, I know I asked you on a previous video about boring out stainless steel pipe wall from 1.5 mm to 0.5mm, the pipe being 50mm wide and 100mm long and I would need to go in 45mm deep. It wouldn’t be an everyday thing but maybe two pipes a couple of times a week. You said keeping the pipe steady was the difficult thing and stainless being so hard. Do you think it’s possible though? The rest of the time I would be using it for making bits and pieces on old bikes. I don’t want to spend money on one if it won’t do the stainless pipes though. I have limited space and it’s seems perfect. Thanks again Glyn.
This is my opinion Glyn. The lathe could hold the metal tube with the outside jaws of the 3 jaw chuck, and you bore it out with a suitable tool. The lathe is certainly powerful and accurate enough. The problem is holding the work securely so far out of the chuck. You would need to make a 'steady' to hold the tube while it was being bored out. I'm not sure that the Clarke accessory steady would be wide enough? That would be a problem for any lathe with a chuck bore of less than your tube.
Paul Birkeland-Green I understand what you mean, going at it from a different angle , what if is was a stainless pipe 50mm wide and as long as it could be to be secured at both end and machined/ turned from the outside then cut to 100mm lengths afterwards.
Sorry to be a complete numpty but I’ve never used a lathe. If that was possible with a good cutting tool would it be a nice smooth finish on the outside. I don’t mind if it took a few passes to take 1/2mm to 1mm thickness out and be left with approx 3/4 mm thickness. Thanks Glyn.
@@glynharding8109 Stainless is not recomnended for beginners to the lathe. It requires very good cutting tools and feed. To get a good finish is difficult. Have a look at this, it might be helpful. ruclips.net/video/IJciY4dZmDg/видео.html
Paul Birkeland-Green that’s a good video Paul. He gave that stainless a serious going over! Well I’ve taken the plunge and bought one. It should be delivered on the 16th of this month. I will try not to bother you. Could you recommend some good tools to go with it and possibly a good book to help me please. Thanks Glyn.
Those little fuses are not cheap here in Canada. I replaced mine with a breaker. Well worth it.
That's a shame I bought 10 for £2 including postage on ebay
Where can I get a circuit breaker for a mini lathe? I have an identical one but the brand is “WEN”. Only difference is the color.
Hi Matthew does the cl300 have metal gears or plastic.
The one I use dates from 2001 so they may have changed but it has plastic screwcutting gears and back gear. This has never caused any trouble as I treat it very gently.
Does this work in metric or imperial
It's Imperial. The leadscrew can be changed to metric, and the gears for metric came with it. The Metric leadscrew is an extra. Not hard to change over.
are these lathes Chinese manufactured
Yes they are George
You know the formula for how to set your speed? Dia divided by 360=cutting speed
More accuracy.... more money 💰 it’s the way it is lol