Struggled with this for a long time, in the end just bought an impact driver (to compliment by drill/driver) but to be honest as an average DIY’er and auto repairs not sure i need it but since i have it use with no regrets (170 Nm should also take off most wheel nuts). Savers your wrist, generally helps me also starting to get arthritis. Thanks for sharing, really useful and insightful. If your on the fence - do it! You can never have enough tools.
Thanks for the video. The impact driver is mostly a lot easier on the wrist, which is important if you use it all day every day. It will also get screws loose that are rusted stuck better. Both are great tools for different jobs.
This is such an illustrative comparison and shows that the average person is much better off with a normal drill (except maybe US homeowners, where houses are made of wood usually). Thank you!
Thanks for a good feedback, but I would suggest driver drill, since there are many cool attachments for a driver. Never know, when you need to use drill on other works.
I don't even own an impact driver. I do everything with a drill. But I guess when driving multiple screws consecutively, impact driver's motor rotates at full speed and thus provides maximum cooling all the time.
The biggest advantage is when using an impact on a ladder. It will not spin in your hand whereas a drill can. And for multiple screws an impact is the way to go. Youre much faster than using a regular drill
I have done a lot of different job's using the battery powered tools. I still feel that i do not have the understanding entirely about the selection on the market. I think personally that the driver drill is the best for any job when you have strong hands to withstand the torque even on the long projects. But the impact tools in this matter are convinient for screws. They go in smoothly but loudly. No arm twisting. When you are doing small project you have to have the driver drill. When you're doing big projects you must have the driver drill. I just think its about how thick is your wallet when considering the impact drill. Tough there is one thing i have noticed, when the old screw is stuck very well then its more likely to unscrew with impact drill. Well any unscrewing is better with impact drill.
Yes, I like the impact drivers too, but still it is extra expense, if you dont use that so much. I damaged one ear, when I was young, so that clicking noise is something I try to avoid. I also wanted to talk about less damaging screw heads and when I done tests, then there was no difference, so I couldnt show this in the video. Unscrewing oldschool cross-head with driver drill you need to press a lot of force to not slip the bit.
Impact driver 's , are good tools.drill power tools , smart's .both are Bright's...( Drills tools , I said , very good, good ...many brands , many designs.and colorful 's...corded , cordless ... collection
@@MarekKubi I have 12v impact driver + drill and thinking to upgrade to 18v. Today i really did struggle to put a long screw through (wooden) garden door
@@MarekKubi thanks mate, i have makita impact with 18v battery, just wondering if can have makita drill 12v, want to buy machine drill only, seems can't :(
I think the opposite now. Impact drivers can drill perfectly fine with hex drill bits. The oil impulse type impact driver is a lot quieter than the hammer type. The m12 surge impact driver will be my next purchase.
In my opinion these hex drills are expensive and they have big play, so the work is not so neat. Serious cobalt drill bits are only without hex. Oil impulse is way more expensive. If you have money, you can have special tool for every work. If not, you need to find a compromise.
@@MarekKubi modern impact drivers have drill functions where they spin smoothly till they encounter too much opposing friction and then start the impact function. This allows them to install self tapping screws perfectly. Xtorque make sets of cobalt hex bits, just to name one. Plus they can use impact bits into bricks and Milwaukee makes a great set of impact tap bits that can be used to drill and tap bolt holes in one step. Milwaukee M12 Surge is light, quiet and powerful enough to get most jubs done, just buy after-market batteries and chargers on eBay as they are cheaper than brand name ones.
Kasutan võimalust vastu vaidlemiseks :D Iga tööoperatsiooni jaoks on ikka oma riist, trell puurimiseks ja löökkruvikeeraja kruvide keeramiseks. Kruvile tuleb sobiva suurusega ava ette puurida. Ja löökkruvikeerajaga peitpea kruvi liiga sügavale keeramine on puhtalt kasutaja oskamatuses kinni, päästikusõrmega peab oskama survet nupule õigesti doseerida. Ega muidu ei targutaks, aga olen oma elu jooksul töö tõttu kümneid tuhandeid kruve keeranud, mutreid kinni kruttinud jne - löökkruvikeerajal on selge eelis trelli ees. Üks eelistest on ka viidikus välja toodud - ohutus. Sa saad kruvi kiiresti trelliga sisse küll, aga kuhu sa selle välja väänatud käega hiljem tõukad? Trellil kruttimise tugevuse timmimine on ka paras nali, pehmemasse puitu keerab liiga sügavale ja kui satub kõvem koht ette tulema, siis jääb kruvi pea välja. See on puhtalt minu arvamus ja ei pretendeeri täielikule tõele :D
Hei Rainis. Päris tore on kuulata tellijate tagasisidet, mis põhineb nende kogemustele. Päris õige jutt ja tundub, et kasutad keskmisest mehest rohkem tööriistu. Video lõpus kokkuvõtvalt soovitangi seda trelli neile, kel tööd rohkem. Ei tea, kas see rohkem kui 100 kruvi kuu jooksul oli piisavalt hea võrdlus. Ise korteriinimesena kahjuks ei kasuta nii tihti tööriistu, kui tahaks. Seega mulle piisab trellist. Videot tehes arvestasin ka selle vaatajaskonnaga. Kuna ma loodan, et see video jõuab enim inimesele, kel kogemusi vähe ehitamises, siis proovisin võimalikult lihtsalt lahti selgitada löökkruvikeeraja tööpõhimõtte. Tihti ostetakse combokit mingiks pisikeseks projektiks ja siis jäävad 2 trelli seisma. Sel juhul võiks justkui olla mõistlik ainult 1 trell osta. Kogenud ehitajad ei otsi taolisi videosid, küll aga on minu kanalite jaoks palju kogenuid ehitajaid, kel huvitav minu videosid vaadata :D . Ohutuse osas on minu meelest hea valik 12v seeria, kuigi minu uus harjavaba mudel piisavalt võimas, et võib käe ära väänata. Ise kasutan selle vältimiseks sidurit ja kui on puurimise peal trell, siis alati hoian trelli kahe käega. Igastahes täna mul pole kahjuks vaja löökkruvikeerajat ja vb seetõttu jääb mulje, et ma ei soovitagi seda. Aga üks kena päev kui ma maja ehitama hakkan, siis on mul seda mingis staadiumis kindlasti vaja ;)
@@MarekKubi , eks ta nii on, et igaühele oma. Kunagi sai ka kruve trelliga keeratud ja löökkruvikeerajast ei olnud ma midagi kuulnutki. Alates päevast, kui selle kätte sain, ei tahtnud ma trelliga kruvide keeramisest kuuldagi 🙂 Töösuund oli/on mul mänguväljakud ja istemööbel(pargipingid jne). Sul on väga asjalikud videod, neid on huvitav vaadata. Jätka samas vaimus!
Minu kogemus on sama, pole küll ehitaja, aga meeldib ehitada. Löökkruvikas on üljuhul kergem, alati kerge hoida sõltumata kruvi suurusest ja materjalist - ei mingit käeväänamist. Näiteks kõrgele ühe käega kruvides tuleb erinevus väga hästi välja. Aga üks asi mida ka tihti välja ei tooda, on see, et löögi impulss ei ole ainult väände suunas, vaid ka sisse - ehk kui trelliga hüppab otsik kohe kruvist välja kui korralikult sisse ei suru, siis löökkruvikas surub ise löögi ajal ennast kruvisse.
@@jaanoras716 Õige tähelepanek see kruvipeasse koha leidmine. Tahtsin seda ka videos kajastada, kuid erinevate testidega ei suutnud seda hästi tõestada. Proovisin ristpeadega ja vales mõõdus otsikutega ja tähtpeadega. Vb tagantjärele tarkusena surusingi liiga kõvasti trelli kruvile, kui oleks vähem surunud, siis ehk oleks saanud lindile selle libisemise. Aga noh video sai tehtud ja las see osa jääb. Muidu loogika jah on selle poolt, et kruvipeadele on löök parem. Osadel töödel tõesti see suur miinus, et trelli peab kindlalt käes hoidma. Ise saan hakkama ühe kruvikaga täna veel. Vb see video tuli liiga kallutatud välja, oleksin pidanud veel korra toonitama, et käe mitteväänamine ja löökkruvika kompaktsus on suur eelis trelli ees. Igastahes on tore, et tellijatele minu tegemised korda lähevad ja see aitab tulevase sisu loomisel. Kuulan kõik kogemused ja teooriad läbi ja arvestan nendega. Tänud tagasiside eest.
@@MarekKubi aga ära valesti aru saa, sinu point, et trelliga ei jää midagi tegemata vaatamata väiksematele numbritele kehtib ikka ja see oli ilusti illustreeritud.
Sure you don't absolutely need it but it you screw it alot of screws or faseners. It's far better for speed and does slip or rip ur wrist off like a drill would at top speeds. My dad and Co worker only use drills cuz they are more old school and dont like the noise. It's basically a professional high power screwdriver.
In america we use every tool wrong. We try putting a 3 inch self feeding hole saw on a small impacter and call it a piece of shyte when it fails to do the job. I recently bought a 3/8 impact wrench. It drives 1/2x6" lag bolts like there is no tomorrow because of putin..... Every task has a specific tool.
Yes nowadays there are many guys who is drilling with impact drivers for example. In some case I understand, that you are earning money and the faster you finish work the more you make money. So for some small tasks abusing your tools is acceptable. For home DIY projects it is kinda criminal to hurry and abuse your tools imo.
Struggled with this for a long time, in the end just bought an impact driver (to compliment by drill/driver) but to be honest as an average DIY’er and auto repairs not sure i need it but since i have it use with no regrets (170 Nm should also take off most wheel nuts). Savers your wrist, generally helps me also starting to get arthritis. Thanks for sharing, really useful and insightful. If your on the fence - do it! You can never have enough tools.
Thanks for the video. The impact driver is mostly a lot easier on the wrist, which is important if you use it all day every day. It will also get screws loose that are rusted stuck better. Both are great tools for different jobs.
Simply the review I needed. Thank you.
This is such an illustrative comparison and shows that the average person is much better off with a normal drill (except maybe US homeowners, where houses are made of wood usually). Thank you!
Yes, youre right in that point ;)
One of the few reviews that tells the real differences with a realistic view. For small screw jobs you would better get a DDF083 instead of the DTD.
Thanks for a good feedback, but I would suggest driver drill, since there are many cool attachments for a driver. Never know, when you need to use drill on other works.
I don't even own an impact driver. I do everything with a drill. But I guess when driving multiple screws consecutively, impact driver's motor rotates at full speed and thus provides maximum cooling all the time.
Good point about engine cooling. But that hammering system gets really hot when in constant use. Maybe it transfers some heat to engine also?
Really good video's, thanks for the information.
I found this video fantastic! This is wath I want to see . A test i parallel. Thanks Marek
The biggest advantage is when using an impact on a ladder. It will not spin in your hand whereas a drill can. And for multiple screws an impact is the way to go. Youre much faster than using a regular drill
I have done a lot of different job's using the battery powered tools. I still feel that i do not have the understanding entirely about the selection on the market. I think personally that the driver drill is the best for any job when you have strong hands to withstand the torque even on the long projects.
But the impact tools in this matter are convinient for screws. They go in smoothly but loudly. No arm twisting. When you are doing small project you have to have the driver drill. When you're doing big projects you must have the driver drill. I just think its about how thick is your wallet when considering the impact drill.
Tough there is one thing i have noticed, when the old screw is stuck very well then its more likely to unscrew with impact drill. Well any unscrewing is better with impact drill.
Yes, I like the impact drivers too, but still it is extra expense, if you dont use that so much. I damaged one ear, when I was young, so that clicking noise is something I try to avoid. I also wanted to talk about less damaging screw heads and when I done tests, then there was no difference, so I couldnt show this in the video. Unscrewing oldschool cross-head with driver drill you need to press a lot of force to not slip the bit.
This was very informative. Thanks!
Your welcome ;)
Thanks, very good way to explain
A video showing the truth 👏🏻 🇧🇷
Отлично объяснил - благодарю!
Great video, thanks for the info!
Impact driver 's , are good tools.drill power tools , smart's .both are Bright's...( Drills tools , I said , very good, good ...many brands , many designs.and colorful 's...corded , cordless ... collection
Thanks for the video mate
Your welcome! What is your choice?
@@MarekKubi
I have 12v impact driver + drill and thinking to upgrade to 18v.
Today i really did struggle to put a long screw through (wooden) garden door
Can we use the 18v battery into makita with 12v?
No.
@@MarekKubi thanks mate, i have makita impact with 18v battery, just wondering if can have makita drill 12v, want to buy machine drill only, seems can't :(
I think the opposite now. Impact drivers can drill perfectly fine with hex drill bits. The oil impulse type impact driver is a lot quieter than the hammer type. The m12 surge impact driver will be my next purchase.
In my opinion these hex drills are expensive and they have big play, so the work is not so neat. Serious cobalt drill bits are only without hex. Oil impulse is way more expensive. If you have money, you can have special tool for every work. If not, you need to find a compromise.
@@MarekKubi modern impact drivers have drill functions where they spin smoothly till they encounter too much opposing friction and then start the impact function. This allows them to install self tapping screws perfectly. Xtorque make sets of cobalt hex bits, just to name one. Plus they can use impact bits into bricks and Milwaukee makes a great set of impact tap bits that can be used to drill and tap bolt holes in one step. Milwaukee M12 Surge is light, quiet and powerful enough to get most jubs done, just buy after-market batteries and chargers on eBay as they are cheaper than brand name ones.
I use
My impacts for automotive use
Kasutan võimalust vastu vaidlemiseks :D Iga tööoperatsiooni jaoks on ikka oma riist, trell puurimiseks ja löökkruvikeeraja kruvide keeramiseks. Kruvile tuleb sobiva suurusega ava ette puurida. Ja löökkruvikeerajaga peitpea kruvi liiga sügavale keeramine on puhtalt kasutaja oskamatuses kinni, päästikusõrmega peab oskama survet nupule õigesti doseerida. Ega muidu ei targutaks, aga olen oma elu jooksul töö tõttu kümneid tuhandeid kruve keeranud, mutreid kinni kruttinud jne - löökkruvikeerajal on selge eelis trelli ees. Üks eelistest on ka viidikus välja toodud - ohutus. Sa saad kruvi kiiresti trelliga sisse küll, aga kuhu sa selle välja väänatud käega hiljem tõukad? Trellil kruttimise tugevuse timmimine on ka paras nali, pehmemasse puitu keerab liiga sügavale ja kui satub kõvem koht ette tulema, siis jääb kruvi pea välja. See on puhtalt minu arvamus ja ei pretendeeri täielikule tõele :D
Hei Rainis. Päris tore on kuulata tellijate tagasisidet, mis põhineb nende kogemustele. Päris õige jutt ja tundub, et kasutad keskmisest mehest rohkem tööriistu. Video lõpus kokkuvõtvalt soovitangi seda trelli neile, kel tööd rohkem. Ei tea, kas see rohkem kui 100 kruvi kuu jooksul oli piisavalt hea võrdlus. Ise korteriinimesena kahjuks ei kasuta nii tihti tööriistu, kui tahaks. Seega mulle piisab trellist. Videot tehes arvestasin ka selle vaatajaskonnaga. Kuna ma loodan, et see video jõuab enim inimesele, kel kogemusi vähe ehitamises, siis proovisin võimalikult lihtsalt lahti selgitada löökkruvikeeraja tööpõhimõtte. Tihti ostetakse combokit mingiks pisikeseks projektiks ja siis jäävad 2 trelli seisma. Sel juhul võiks justkui olla mõistlik ainult 1 trell osta. Kogenud ehitajad ei otsi taolisi videosid, küll aga on minu kanalite jaoks palju kogenuid ehitajaid, kel huvitav minu videosid vaadata :D . Ohutuse osas on minu meelest hea valik 12v seeria, kuigi minu uus harjavaba mudel piisavalt võimas, et võib käe ära väänata. Ise kasutan selle vältimiseks sidurit ja kui on puurimise peal trell, siis alati hoian trelli kahe käega. Igastahes täna mul pole kahjuks vaja löökkruvikeerajat ja vb seetõttu jääb mulje, et ma ei soovitagi seda. Aga üks kena päev kui ma maja ehitama hakkan, siis on mul seda mingis staadiumis kindlasti vaja ;)
@@MarekKubi , eks ta nii on, et igaühele oma. Kunagi sai ka kruve trelliga keeratud ja löökkruvikeerajast ei olnud ma midagi kuulnutki. Alates päevast, kui selle kätte sain, ei tahtnud ma trelliga kruvide keeramisest kuuldagi 🙂 Töösuund oli/on mul mänguväljakud ja istemööbel(pargipingid jne). Sul on väga asjalikud videod, neid on huvitav vaadata. Jätka samas vaimus!
Minu kogemus on sama, pole küll ehitaja, aga meeldib ehitada. Löökkruvikas on üljuhul kergem, alati kerge hoida sõltumata kruvi suurusest ja materjalist - ei mingit käeväänamist. Näiteks kõrgele ühe käega kruvides tuleb erinevus väga hästi välja. Aga üks asi mida ka tihti välja ei tooda, on see, et löögi impulss ei ole ainult väände suunas, vaid ka sisse - ehk kui trelliga hüppab otsik kohe kruvist välja kui korralikult sisse ei suru, siis löökkruvikas surub ise löögi ajal ennast kruvisse.
@@jaanoras716 Õige tähelepanek see kruvipeasse koha leidmine. Tahtsin seda ka videos kajastada, kuid erinevate testidega ei suutnud seda hästi tõestada. Proovisin ristpeadega ja vales mõõdus otsikutega ja tähtpeadega. Vb tagantjärele tarkusena surusingi liiga kõvasti trelli kruvile, kui oleks vähem surunud, siis ehk oleks saanud lindile selle libisemise. Aga noh video sai tehtud ja las see osa jääb. Muidu loogika jah on selle poolt, et kruvipeadele on löök parem. Osadel töödel tõesti see suur miinus, et trelli peab kindlalt käes hoidma. Ise saan hakkama ühe kruvikaga täna veel. Vb see video tuli liiga kallutatud välja, oleksin pidanud veel korra toonitama, et käe mitteväänamine ja löökkruvika kompaktsus on suur eelis trelli ees. Igastahes on tore, et tellijatele minu tegemised korda lähevad ja see aitab tulevase sisu loomisel. Kuulan kõik kogemused ja teooriad läbi ja arvestan nendega. Tänud tagasiside eest.
@@MarekKubi aga ära valesti aru saa, sinu point, et trelliga ei jää midagi tegemata vaatamata väiksematele numbritele kehtib ikka ja see oli ilusti illustreeritud.
Sure you don't absolutely need it but it you screw it alot of screws or faseners. It's far better for speed and does slip or rip ur wrist off like a drill would at top speeds. My dad and Co worker only use drills cuz they are more old school and dont like the noise. It's basically a professional high power screwdriver.
Yes, just like I recommended at the end of the video.
Ive never heard of someone saying an ipact driver is meant to be more powerful than a drill
Somehow brands state more nm on impacts.
In america we use every tool wrong. We try putting a 3 inch self feeding hole saw on a small impacter and call it a piece of shyte when it fails to do the job.
I recently bought a 3/8 impact wrench. It drives 1/2x6" lag bolts like there is no tomorrow because of putin.....
Every task has a specific tool.
Yes nowadays there are many guys who is drilling with impact drivers for example. In some case I understand, that you are earning money and the faster you finish work the more you make money. So for some small tasks abusing your tools is acceptable.
For home DIY projects it is kinda criminal to hurry and abuse your tools imo.
Tq, its really informative and very useful sharing.
less chance of cam out with the impact driver
Very nice videos, right to the point, with useful tips and no fluff, thanks!
Thanks! Did you already got one from Santa?
@@MarekKubi not yet, but he is studying the videos to learn what to give me :)