Couple of comments I'd do different way: 1. Use the wax scraper so that you rather push it than pull it. 2. Wire brushes (brass or steel) should be used only in one direction (from tip to tail), not back and forth.
Your other video you made the Vise and asked for improvements. Didnt find it fast so I add the tip here. Add a plastic bag in the end with thick Iron wire for the excess wax you scrape off.
I have a almost identical kit, mine from Outdoor Master. A couple of qustions: 1. Instructions also say to sharpen from tip to tail. For any given angle on the tool, say 88 degrees, if you follow the arrow direction on the tool you can sharpen from tip to tail on one side only. If you keep the same angle and sharpen the other edge from tip to tail, you are going against the arrow on the tool. Should you sharpen tail to tip on that 2nd side? Or do you ignore the arrow and sharpen tip to tail? 2. The instructions show base bevels of 0.5 degrees, 0.75 degrees, and 1 degree. How do you sharpen the base to achieve those bevels?
The arrow is pointing at which side of the tool is the noted angle, not the direction of travel. Example: 88 and arrow points right, then the file inserted on the right side is 88 degrees.
Rather than using brushes and scotch bright to finish the job, how do u feel about using a fairly aggressive buffing pad such as a compounding pad, and using a power buffer along with an additional layer of wax product rated for fiberglass, paint etc surfaces?
I think an orbital buffing pad could work, but they do sell brush attachments that connect to a drill. That would be better. I'd probably stay away from additional wax products personally.
Look up the manufacturer’s specifications for your skis base bevel and edge angles. Unless you really know what you’re doing you should stay with the angle settings they came with.
Thanks for sharing! Getting all geared up for our season to begin. What Go Pro where you using at the end? I imagine you had it attached to a pole. It was pretty cool to have the rear view follow footage.
i live in a small town, so i’m thinking of starting a ski waxing/tuning/repair business in my basement and this vid helps 😊
This is great man, always wanted to learn how to do this myself, gonna try it on an old pair off ski next season to see how it feels
Couple of comments I'd do different way: 1. Use the wax scraper so that you rather push it than pull it. 2. Wire brushes (brass or steel) should be used only in one direction (from tip to tail), not back and forth.
Your other video you made the Vise and asked for improvements. Didnt find it fast so I add the tip here. Add a plastic bag in the end with thick Iron wire for the excess wax you scrape off.
Great idea on that ski vice. Probably works better than the ones you cab buy. I might copy that.
It's a product review rather than a generic how to
Thanks for sharing. Just got this kit and realizing I definitely need to make a clamp set up for my skis now before using it….
@invitetheelite9 two piles of books work just fine
Thank you for sharing!
I have a almost identical kit, mine from Outdoor Master. A couple of qustions:
1. Instructions also say to sharpen from tip to tail. For any given angle on the tool, say 88 degrees, if you follow the arrow direction on the tool you can sharpen from tip to tail on one side only. If you keep the same angle and sharpen the other edge from tip to tail, you are going against the arrow on the tool. Should you sharpen tail to tip on that 2nd side? Or do you ignore the arrow and sharpen tip to tail?
2. The instructions show base bevels of 0.5 degrees, 0.75 degrees, and 1 degree. How do you sharpen the base to achieve those bevels?
Hi mate, same issue here, did you found solution with No1? Looks like i can sharp only from 1 side
Just flip the file
@MrJamocity but that's a different angle
The arrow is pointing at which side of the tool is the noted angle, not the direction of travel. Example: 88 and arrow points right, then the file inserted on the right side is 88 degrees.
Rather than using brushes and scotch bright to finish the job, how do u feel about using a fairly aggressive buffing pad such as a compounding pad, and using a power buffer along with an additional layer of wax product rated for fiberglass, paint etc surfaces?
I think an orbital buffing pad could work, but they do sell brush attachments that connect to a drill. That would be better. I'd probably stay away from additional wax products personally.
Need them sharp edges for the ice coast 🧊 We got the pow here in Utah ❄️
curious why you dont tune the base bevels
Quick question. With the edge tool, how do you figure out which angle to use?
Look up the manufacturer’s specifications for your skis base bevel and edge angles. Unless you really know what you’re doing you should stay with the angle settings they came with.
Thanks for sharing! Getting all geared up for our season to begin. What Go Pro where you using at the end? I imagine you had it attached to a pole. It was pretty cool to have the rear view follow footage.
That was my insta360 2.0 camera. Best camera for action!
Looks good! im still debating between a 360 vs the higher quality front facing lens. @@EveryotherKarl
Depends what you want to use it for. I have 2 GoPros, but I pretty much only use the insta360 now. It's pretty high quality.
Ill be using it mainly to record my kids skiing and our outdoor adventures here in Alaska. Starting to lean more towards the 360.@@EveryotherKarl
The be ole Nordic shoe shine
you actually should show how to do the detuning.
The edging tool instructions are not clear to me. You need to focus a bit more attention and time on that part.
NO ! But ok