We have 2017 Cedar Creek 35IK which came with a Residential Whirlpool Refrigerator which never worked properly. We finally got rid of it and purchased a plane jane garage refrigerator 10.1 cubic foot. Smaller, lighter and works great. Three small plastic ice trays make all the ice we need. Plenty of freezer & refrigerator space!
I have that exact LG residential fridge. A storm went through the San Antonio area and the RV Park where I was lost power for ten hours. The fridge's insulation kept thing relatively cool for that time period, but its light didn't work. Almost too late, I discovered what the inverter switch was for, and why I paid for an extra battery. Great breakdown of fridge types, thank you!
Just a tidbit on the residential refrigerators, if you have any issues with them, a lot of times the RV dealership is not certified to work on them. Even though the refrigerator may be able to be repaired, the unit may need to be removed and taken to a appliance repair place to be fixed and then reinstalled. Most of these repair places also will not work on them in the unit. They also are not good for traveling because they are not rated for the shock/bouncing that the RV encounters. That being said if you have a diesel motor home with an air ride suspension, the residential refrigerator is good. Anywhere else, they can and will have problems.
Cory B. Gabel it also depends where in the RV/camper they are located. If they’re in the rear as in my Grand Design, they get bounced up and down like crazy. If so they will fail soon. Lastly, if you lose power in the park where it’s located and you’re away, you’re going to lose the food inside.
I've had 3 campers with gas electric refrigerators. Every one of them failed. I replaced them with a cheap $300 residential refrigerator. Never had a issue with them.
@@matthewerwin4677 My wife and I are not impressed at all with the RV fridge in our 5th wheel. The camper is only 1 year old and we're considering swapping it with a residential style fridge. How difficult is it to swap without making it look jerry-rigged and do you think there might be a resale value for the used RV fridge?
I swear it's like everything I am interested in/doing you make a video about 2 days later. It's happened now with a bike rack and RV fridges. Love the content, keep it up!
Great video JD! You missed one of the most attractive things about the 12v fridge. It fits in the same size space as an 8 cubic foot absorption fridge so you gain 25% capacity. Also, those 12 v fridges only draw about 3 amps. All you need is a small solar panel and it will run indefinitely, awesome for boondocking!
I had a gas electric fridge in my old unit. I liked that we had an option of how to power the fridge so if one were to go out it would still run on the other. Went to a 12v in our new unit. Wasn’t sure about it at first but I think the 12v is definitely colder than the gas electric was. I keep our trailer plugged in and fridge on all the time because we keep stuff in our fridge even when we aren’t using it. So far so good.
For our new rv i was specifically looking to make sure it was a 12v fridge. Provides more room and should cool better. Plus i like the idea that it can be on while driving to your campsite.
We mostly boondock and our gas electric will not work on propane while traveling down the road at highway speeds. During the camp season, for my gas electric refrigerator, I keep 3 gallons of water frozen in the home freezer. 24 hours prior to our departure, I will turn on the gas electric refrigerator and place a gallon jug in the freezer and in the refrigerator. The frozen water ice will help pre chill both the freezer and the refrigerator section. On departure, I will swap out the frozen one with the half melted gallon in the freezer and refrigerator section. and continue a deaily swap. The 3rd gallon is used to mix with purchased ice for the large drink cooler. Works well and it always keeps everything cold when traveling and the gas electric will not run on propane while going down the road.
I have learned so much watching your channel. I`m retiring soon from the Navy and I`ll be living for a while in a Fifth Wheel. Gonna go park it in the FL Keys FISH, DIVE, DRINK BEERS and spend time with my family and friends.
My Norcold 18 cf refrigerator went out after 3 years. I upgraded to a 12 volt conversion kit from JC refrigeration in Indiana. It was the best upgrade that I have done to my 320 Avalanche
This really helped my understanding a lot - thanks! We had a residential in our trailer that we sold a few months ago. I found it hard to get cooled down and ready for food - but while we were traveling and stopping for quick overnights, it could keep food cold overnight. The manual said we had to be level for it to operate correctly and to not harm it FYI. We just bought a motorhome and I wanted specifically a gas-electric so that we could boondock more because we found that we like that kind of thing with our trailer. When I turn it on to cool down in prep for food, it's way faster than our residential was at being ready. I was worried from comments online that the Norco would be difficult to 'circulate the cold' without a fan - and so I put a thermometer on a middle shelf to keep an eye on things. And there's been no issue. The manual says it has to be within 6 degrees of level to run. After having the residential, it's such a comfort to have gas-electric that we know is going to be ok no matter how long we're off the grid - well, at least a few days anyway.
In our last caravan, we had a compressor fridge that was 12 v /240 v when in caravan parks it obviously ran on 240v when we as you in the US call boondocking we ran through our battery system backed up with solar panels and a 1000 kW generator that we rarely used for us it was almost a perfect setup while travelling throughout some of the hottest parts of Australia our fridge worked perfectly and we have seen other travellers using the condenser fridges ( 12v /gas and in most cases failed miserably.
Our 2021 cherokee grey wolf came with the ever chill 12v fridge. So far, I love it. Our trailer came with a larger than average battery and a small solar panel to compensate. For a weekend warrior I can plug it in to power at home and keep it running and the battery charged between trips. My charger pulls less than 1 amp 110v to maintain charge and run the fridge so its demand on my 30 amp when camping is nice and low.
I had changed my 7.3 gas/electric out when they wanted $1500 to replace it. I put in a 1000 watt pure sine wave inverter and an auto transfer switch with a 10 cu/ft apartment fridge that fit on the same space (with modifications) in mine. The battery alone would power it for awhile but when it was hooked up to the Chevy Duramax it had 2 more batteries helping through the aux pin on trailer wiring. Worked great going down the road. Didn’t boondocks though, would probably needed a jump. Great info, will rewatch again.
Great, this is spot on, I had a gas and electric refrigerator but to cool it or to keep it cool I had to put two or three pc fans in the back and even then it wasn't doing all that good. The 5th wheel that we are picking up tomorrow have the 12volt and I want to see how it does for us.
We had the option of the residential style inverter driven refer in our 2018 full profile 5th wheel, but opted for the gas electric version. Here is why...not so much for our RV, but my brother-in-law's 30 amp Super C motor home was drawing shore power and kept tripping breakers in the 112 degree outdoor heat while running his single AC full time. They could not run anything else like a crock-pot without tripping a breaker. I suggested he switch his gas electric refer over to propane which gave 5-10 amps back to the RV to power other stuff while keeping the AC & refer running well and very cold. It worked very well.
you can also convert a gas electric to a 12 volt dc or 110 volt ac. Mortons on the Move did it with their gas electric fridge freezer. If the gas electric fridge starts to wear out, you can change it without changing the entire fridge freezer
I ordered my 2020 Grand Design Solitude 5th wheel with a gas electric fridge because I like to have options. Things happen and I like my bases covered. I live in my rig full time but I also travel to places where I boon dock. So when I ordered my rig I checked the box for the solar package, lithium batteries, a 3000w inverter along with a 5500 Onan generator. The fridge can run off my batteries if there is no shore power because all of my outlets are hot. It can run off of propane or the generator also. We have been experiencing rolling blackouts in the area where I live and this set up has proven to be worth it's weight in gold.
I have a 12v in my 5th wheel. Love the thing. I think it is just the right size for travel and it can get super cold super quick. It really doesn't put a big draw on the batteries.
This is a good breakdown of the RV refrigerator types. I personally prefer my gas - electric refrigerator, which even the basics are poorly understood - up until this video. I found it’s necessary to run the gas side of the refrigerator every so often or it won’t cool as readily when used.
We are just in the process of ordering a new fifth wheel , so this is timely. We're going to go with residential , also we saw your other video about what you should order , so also going with the disc brakes . Thanks so much for these , really appreciate it. Happy New year
Another advantage to 12v compressor fridge's is more space in the same cabinet size. For instance, a new 12v compressor fridge of 10 cubic feet takes the place of a 7 cubic foot absorption fridge. The reason is there isn't a big cooling unit hanging off the back of the fridge any more. That 3 cubic feet is a HUGE difference. Another plus, 12 volt systems are designed to run in enclosed spaces, you can plug up / insulate the vent area that your previous absorption fridge needed. I recently replaced mine with a 12v system and I LOVE it. I've never liked absorption fridges and as soon as the one in my motorhome started giving me trouble, I ditched it....never to go back again. I also have a modest solar / battery system and it's been capable enough to handle extended boondocking.
Another great review. I guess we will have to wait to see what style refrigerator you get with your new RV! Another tip to pass along for gas/electric refrigerator users, is to park the side of the RV that has the refrigerator ventilation in the shade, if possible.
You forgot to mention that a small gen (2000 watts) or just a 100 watt solar panel and a pair of 6volt batteries will keep a 12V compressor fridge happy for a extended time. Goodbye to the fire breathing dinosaur absorption fridge. No worry if you will end up a burnt marshmallow if your absorption fridge misbehaves. Some dealers are refusing to order rv's with a residential fridge as they know it's just a matter of time before the road vibration kills them. The 12V compressor fridge with a pair of 6V deep cycle batteries with just one or two 100 watt panels on the roof or easier yet a "solar panel suitcase" on the ground would work along with just a 2000watt gen for cloudy days to replenish battery capacity. The new 12V compressor driven fridge is the clear winner in all applications.
I think 12V is the future, as they become bigger you will see them even more. In most cases one solar panel and one battery is sufficient enough to keep the refrigerator running smoothly. I have excluded any non-12v refrigerators for my 2020 boondocking travel trailer.
Most any Reliable RV service dealer will tell you that residential fridges are Not designed for the Rolling Earthquake Environment of an RV. They are for Park living for the most part. One type I never hear anyone mention is the 3-Way Gas/Electric/12 volt ...either 6 cubic feet or 8 cubic feet made by Dometic. The best of All worlds if size is not your most important issue. And the Dometics are designed for RV living. I really appreciate this Refrigerator review as it really clarified most of the questions an RVer might have. You do such great work. Thank you, bill in Florida. P.S. I sure would like to know your first name or what handle you go by.
A possible work around solution to the capacity issue would be a 10-cubic feet non-freezer 12-V refrigerator and a 10-cubic feet non-refrigerator freezer with drawers (popular in Europe). In other words, a stand-alone 10-ft^3 12-V refrigerator and a stand-alone 10-ft^3 12-V freezer could replace the residential 20+ ft^3 fridge.
The 12v is tempting a few reasons. I currently have a gas/electric. It worked for a couple months, especially when it was brand new and I was on the road for a month but after a year or so it stopped working on gas. Still works fine on electric. Maybe it's a control board issue, but I haven't bothered to troubleshoot because I'm mostly plugged in when we use our TT. A residential would be nice for its cooling power to get warm things cold when you're plugged in, but I think a 12v would be a nice compromise, especially if it would run off the coach battery while you're going down the road for 4-5 hours. Also, I really don't like propane. My future rig will be 100% electric or electric/diesel if I get a class A.
Great overview. I have a Renogy DC to DC charger connected to my truck that charges my 4 lead Acid batteries that run my residential fridge via a 1000 watt pure sine inverter. This is required when your travelling a long distance to your final plug in destination, in my case from Ottawa to Arizona. With the DC charger you can boondock on your way with a full fridge and have a full charge when you stop for the night.
If your always going to stay at RV parks, I’d go with residential. They cool down so much faster and stay colder. Gas/electric have a hard time keeping up in hot weather. They have the advantage of being able to run off gas while on the road. Some people don’t like to do this though.
I know a good bit about solar and batteries, so I can say this. Anytime you want to use AC power off any battery system, it will cost more power to run. Your inverter will have to use power to convert power from DC to AC. Even with a top of the line inverter you could have as much as 10% or more power lost due to the power conversion. So if your AC powered device is rated for 100 watts, then you could pull 110 watts off the battery, as just an example. This is also true for AC to DC conversions as well. So I think the best refrigerator for you should be based on how and where you use it, and how you plan to power and keep it serviced.
I don’t off grid so I prefer my residential fridge. But those things are meant to run and left on...so for me I have the luxury of leaving mine plugged in continuously even when the camper is in storage. I’ve had my Samsung on the road for 5 years and no issues. Can’t say that for my previous traditional RV fridge’s of days gone by.
The only thing that makes since to me is a residential style in a 5th wheel. A small portable generator is needed to boondock in a 5th wheel no matter what refrigerator you have. Small generators are cheap and an easy solution to all power concerns. Residential style are much better insulated, if you have an invertor issue on a trip, the refrigerator will stay plenty cool during travel until you can plug in or run your generator for a few hours.
12 volt is the way to go. I had the gas/electric in my old camper and now have a 12 volt dc in my new camper. The new fridge holds much more, cools down way faster, and I can keep it on (safely) while going down the road. We don't do any boon docking so that's not an issue for us.
My 35 year old 10 cuft Propane/electric RV frig works perfectly. Even on the hottest Texas summer day when it's 116f outside. Trouble is it draws 350 watts when running (6 kilowatt/hrs per day empty). But will run a month on a 20lb tank of propane. Trick is to keep the "chimney" clean and defrost every 3 months.. My 21 year old 3 cuft gas/elec rv frig about half that. a cheap 120v compressor frig from wally world non frost free draws about 1/3 the watt load but doesn't run on propane..
I have 12v compressor mobile Dometic cfx3 45 and it is awesome. My 1000w generator runs it for nearly 5 days without charging at all. And with solar i got 100% battery everyday.. 10 ft cu is very good. Americans must eat less for good health. A residential fridge use probably 600 w to 1300w per day or more. My small 12v compressor uses 192w per day as most of time it draws 2w and 41w when the compressor run for 10/15 seconds so at the end it uses less than 8w per hour. And we have all the food we need for camping. With a 10 cu ft and freezer 12V compressor i could have food for a week and more.
Went from a Norcold gas/electric in our old trailer to a Norcold 12v in the new one. 12v seems to work very well and more efficiently than the gas/electric model. The 10cuft 12v is pretty roomy especially for the weekend trips.
Another great video sir / I was just talking about this topic with some friends ... our vibe has an electric refrigerator ... the only down side is of my rv isn’t plugged in the day before we leave it isn’t cold until the second day of camping ... but the size is worth it for us
If - when our RV fridge dies, I'm definitely going for the all 12volt model. It has a compressor and I think it's what the Morton's did on their own in the conversion, take out the gas and make it all electric. Now you can get the complete fridge for around $1200.00 or so for a 10-foot that fits in the size of an 8-foot. I've read a lot of things saying the residential fridge is great IF you plan on staying at full hookup parks. I've read those literally decimate the batteries if boondocking. I wouldn't ever want one.
If you factor in the cost of the inverter to power a residential refrigerator it's not any cheaper than a Gas/Electric unit and if you get the Lithium Ion batteries and Solar, it's a very expensive option. Where they shine over the others is that frozen food stays frozen in the heat of summer. Try keeping Ice Cream hard in a Gas/Electric freezer. It's soft serve at best. In my mind, residential Refrigerators aren't built with the idea in mind they they are going to be bouncing down a highway every weekend. They're perfect for people who are snowbirds or full timers that spend a few months at a time at an RV park. We have a 12 cu.ft. Gas/Electric in our Fifth Wheel and an Electric 4.1 Cu.Ft. refrigerator in our outdoor kitchen. It works for us but we're looking into adding a small electric freezer for when we become snowbirds for the ice cream treats!
We have a 10cu ft 12v fridge. It uses 48w when compressor is running. Really gets cold quick. I didn’t realize is was inappropriate for boondocking when I bought the small TT and ran out of power in less than a day. Really wanted to boondock so looked into lithium and solar. Ended up with a 1500 watt hour lithium power pack (confusingly called “solar generator”) with built in 500w solar charge controller and 340w of solar panels on pickup bed rack. Now run fridge on power pack and everything else on house battery. Super easy setup, relatively cheap and can go about 3 days between charges if traveling and good sun can charge in about 5 hours from empty when in camp.
I am just into my eleventh camper. This and the last one have/had residential fridges. My test for a fridge is the hardness of ice cream when I go to dip it. The gas electric ones just barely will keep ice cream at 90 degrees outside temp. The residential ones do not have a problem. I have the luxury of inside storage with power. I keep the fridge on all the time. I think that is the secret to the longevity of the fridge.
You don't have to be boondocking to need a non-120V solution for your fridge! This weekend the power was so bad at the campground we were at the my EMS repeatedly shut down the feed. I ended up needing to switch my fridge to propane and turn off my converter on order to keep the AC working. A 12V fridge would only have worked in that situation with a few hundred watts of solar or a BIG battery bank. I'm actually hoping to have all 3 in my next trailer as not having to be obsessive about getting the trailer level to avoid crystalization of the refrigerant would be nice.
So while you're on the road and your house batteries are being charged by the alternator in your tow vehicle, the 12 volt refrigerator will continue to work during your travels and the house battery should be substantially charged to continue to cool the frig. while the tow vehicle is stationary if you're not plugged into shore power. Refrain from opening the frig. too many times while off grid until the next morning. I carry a generator in the back of my truck that I run overnight if I'm staying in a Cabela's or Bass Pro Shop parking lot, so there is a continuous source of power.
Thanks! Informative. Would a 12V 10cu.ft. fridge + a 12V chest freezer still be more efficient than 1 huge residential fridge? For quick meals, frozen stuff are easy to use and cook. I actually use more freezer space than fridge space even at home. So the 12V fridge for day to day use and the 12V chest freezer more for storage and just transfer as the fridge gets emptier.
I don't know if you're aware of this ,but those those gas electric refrigerators don't have a pilot light anymore they have electric start on them now days and as long as you keep the area clean the combustion area they was really good but I've Been Told
Small generator back up on a big Lithium battery bank and inverter system seems to be the way to go, you will need 400 to1000 solor watts of panel to power that and would have no issues running that refrigerator and both air units too. At that point how much water can you take is your main factors Power duration isn't anymore.
Residential refrigerators are that - a home refrig. - NOT intended to be in a "rolling tornado". Many dealers, including Haylett, will not work on them without a lot of money up front.
You forgot that residentual fridges are hard to work on: rv dealers won't work on them because they are not rv equiptment. Also they are not set up to be bouned around while boodocking.
Can you give us some options for smaller solar panels or something to help with keeping the house battery charged when we do have a 12 volt fridge? I don't even know where to begin to look (as far as what's good). Thanks!
I had a 12v fride in my boat using what boaters call a house battery. Need to recharge start the engine, for RV's if you don't have a generator, plug into your tow vehicle. Problem with inverters, they constantly consume power, a lot of it. 12v refrigerator cycle on & off, invertors draw power constantly. Check your manual, versus the Amp hours of your battery too.
What about 3-way fridges? A lot of Truck camers have them (most are mini fridges but some like the Lance 850 are the medium-sized). They can be powered by 12v, Propane, or 110v. Also in regards to 12v and 3-way refrigerators, how well can a vehicle's alternator power them? Could I use my vehicle to power it in transit or would it charge too slowly? Would the size of the fridge effect things? Is there a minimum amount of amperage I should look for in an alternator?
I realize this is an old post, but could you possibly do an update? You did a great job comparing residential vs gas/electric, but I’m looking for information to decide if I want to go 110 residential or 12v residential. Thanks!
My new trailer has solar and a 12v refrigerator. Unfortunately the refrigerator in my outdoor kitchen is 120v. I will get the trailer in a couple of months (it's being built)
Explanations well done! Great information 👏🏼👏🏼 ... an interesting fact, not relevant to the purpose of the video, but USA must be the only country in the world that keeps eggs in the fridge...😁
True, but we have a good reason for it. To avoid bacteria growth, Eggs must maintain roughly the same temperature and humidity constantly. Because the US is so geography large and eggs that folks buy at their local store or market may come from a State a thousand miles away, the FDA requires commercially sold eggs to be stored and transported below 45°F (7°C). Once eggs have been refrigerated, they must be kept refrigerated to prevent condensation from forming on the shell if they warm up, thus causing bacteria growth.
So if I heard you correctly if I go with a residential refrigerator at a rv park. Plug into shore because if I plug into the rv outlet it will drain my battery and I would have to get a bigger inverter?
The only concern to me( Gas, Electric or both ) is a fridge with multi drawers or doors in an RV. Even the higher end ones are not as efficient as a one or two door.. Especially the cheap ones ( Haier, Magic Chef )will use almost twice the power for the same cu.ft. Not a big deal when plugged into someone else's power but when boondocking it's not good..
Great video! Could you do a comparison video on benefits of a triple axle vs double axle on a 5th. Wheel. The old days I saw triple axle 5th wheels all over. They then went almost extinct. Now triple axles are popping up again. Which is better?
Danalord is one of the better fridges I’ve had mine for four years no problem with the trailer I had before that was nine years old no problems my brother has a brand new unit with a normal cold he’s replace the board for times and not much satisfaction from nor cold they also make a 12 V compressor unit to replace a gas propane fridgeJust take out the gas unit and install the 12 V compressor unit into your Gymatic fridge and way to go with a 12 V compressor fridge
I want a residential frost-free 120 volts, 10 cubic feet, for a 26-foot tongue-pull with about 1600 watts of solar on the roof...what's a good one for me?
Hi JD. Ive enjoyed your videos for a couple years now. I own a ram 3500 srw 4x4 diesel. Wife and I are wanting to buy a fifth wheel not over about 36 ft long. We don't need bunks since it's just us and the dogs. What are some 5th wheels you'd recommend us looking into for these needs? Prefer king bed, 2 a/c unit. Thanks for your help.
Hi! I can’t find a way to DM you, so I’ll try here and hope you get it. I love your videos. You seem very sincere and trustworthy. I have a Ram 2500 with the 6.7 Cummins with a crew cab and short bed. 68RFE too. I’m looking at dump trailers. I like Texas Pride. Fo my 1st trailer I’m thinking 16 foot, bumper pull. Can you also point me in a travel trailer direction with a quality brand.
You stated that a residential fridge is cheaper than a gas/electric. While that may be true, the added cost of an inverter and all those extra batteries far outweighs the initial cost savings.
The bond between my stomach and refrigerator is strong. 😲
We have 2017 Cedar Creek 35IK which came with a Residential Whirlpool Refrigerator which never worked properly. We finally got rid of it and purchased a plane jane garage refrigerator 10.1 cubic foot. Smaller, lighter and works great. Three small plastic ice trays make all the ice we need. Plenty of freezer & refrigerator space!
My neighbor talked me in to a DC,120 2 way conversion. Works great
, works very quickly and works quickly while towing.
We love our residential fridge. Plenty of room plus an ice maker.
I have that exact LG residential fridge. A storm went through the San Antonio area and the RV Park where I was lost power for ten hours. The fridge's insulation kept thing relatively cool for that time period, but its light didn't work. Almost too late, I discovered what the inverter switch was for, and why I paid for an extra battery. Great breakdown of fridge types, thank you!
Just a tidbit on the residential refrigerators, if you have any issues with them, a lot of times the RV dealership is not certified to work on them. Even though the refrigerator may be able to be repaired, the unit may need to be removed and taken to a appliance repair place to be fixed and then reinstalled. Most of these repair places also will not work on them in the unit. They also are not good for traveling because they are not rated for the shock/bouncing that the RV encounters. That being said if you have a diesel motor home with an air ride suspension, the residential refrigerator is good. Anywhere else, they can and will have problems.
Cory B. Gabel it also depends where in the RV/camper they are located. If they’re in the rear as in my Grand Design, they get bounced up and down like crazy. If so they will fail soon. Lastly, if you lose power in the park where it’s located and you’re away, you’re going to lose the food inside.
I've had 3 campers with gas electric refrigerators. Every one of them failed. I replaced them with a cheap $300 residential refrigerator. Never had a issue with them.
@@matthewerwin4677 My wife and I are not impressed at all with the RV fridge in our 5th wheel. The camper is only 1 year old and we're considering swapping it with a residential style fridge. How difficult is it to swap without making it look jerry-rigged and do you think there might be a resale value for the used RV fridge?
I swear it's like everything I am interested in/doing you make a video about 2 days later. It's happened now with a bike rack and RV fridges. Love the content, keep it up!
I have 12 volt reefer since Nov 2020. The best RV refrigerator I even had. Set leave it, keeps temperature better.
Great video JD! You missed one of the most attractive things about the 12v fridge. It fits in the same size space as an 8 cubic foot absorption fridge so you gain 25% capacity. Also, those 12 v fridges only draw about 3 amps. All you need is a small solar panel and it will run indefinitely, awesome for boondocking!
I had a gas electric fridge in my old unit. I liked that we had an option of how to power the fridge so if one were to go out it would still run on the other. Went to a 12v in our new unit. Wasn’t sure about it at first but I think the 12v is definitely colder than the gas electric was. I keep our trailer plugged in and fridge on all the time because we keep stuff in our fridge even when we aren’t using it. So far so good.
For our new rv i was specifically looking to make sure it was a 12v fridge. Provides more room and should cool better. Plus i like the idea that it can be on while driving to your campsite.
One more type is the 3-way (LP, 110v and 12v). Have one on our Lance Truck camper and it’s the best of all worlds!
We mostly boondock and our gas electric will not work on propane while traveling down the road at highway speeds. During the camp season, for my gas electric refrigerator, I keep 3 gallons of water frozen in the home freezer. 24 hours prior to our departure, I will turn on the gas electric refrigerator and place a gallon jug in the freezer and in the refrigerator. The frozen water ice will help pre chill both the freezer and the refrigerator section. On departure, I will swap out the frozen one with the half melted gallon in the freezer and refrigerator section. and continue a deaily swap. The 3rd gallon is used to mix with purchased ice for the large drink cooler. Works well and it always keeps everything cold when traveling and the gas electric will not run on propane while going down the road.
made me remember my first one a 50 lb ice block no elec no propane. long time ago but it worked.
Personally, I was pleased to find a 12 volt 10cuft fridge in my new Cruiser RV Twilight Signature 2500.
WhoDatFanMan artic wolf uses them too.
The forest river Palomino Solaire have it too
I have learned so much watching your channel. I`m retiring soon from the Navy and I`ll be living for a while in a Fifth Wheel. Gonna go park it in the FL Keys FISH, DIVE, DRINK BEERS and spend time with my family and friends.
My Norcold 18 cf refrigerator went out after 3 years. I upgraded to a 12 volt conversion kit from JC refrigeration in Indiana. It was the best upgrade that I have done to my 320 Avalanche
Great information 👍 thanks JD. I never heard of the 12 volt frig before.
This really helped my understanding a lot - thanks! We had a residential in our trailer that we sold a few months ago. I found it hard to get cooled down and ready for food - but while we were traveling and stopping for quick overnights, it could keep food cold overnight. The manual said we had to be level for it to operate correctly and to not harm it FYI. We just bought a motorhome and I wanted specifically a gas-electric so that we could boondock more because we found that we like that kind of thing with our trailer. When I turn it on to cool down in prep for food, it's way faster than our residential was at being ready. I was worried from comments online that the Norco would be difficult to 'circulate the cold' without a fan - and so I put a thermometer on a middle shelf to keep an eye on things. And there's been no issue. The manual says it has to be within 6 degrees of level to run. After having the residential, it's such a comfort to have gas-electric that we know is going to be ok no matter how long we're off the grid - well, at least a few days anyway.
Love my Norcold Gas/Electric!! Have had the same fridge in 2 fifth wheels now and it is fabulous!! Has an ice maker as well but we haven't used it.
In our last caravan, we had a compressor fridge that was 12 v /240 v when in caravan parks it obviously ran on 240v when we as you in the US call boondocking we ran through our battery system backed up with solar panels and a 1000 kW generator that we rarely used for us it was almost a perfect setup while travelling throughout some of the hottest parts of Australia our fridge worked perfectly and we have seen other travellers using the condenser fridges ( 12v /gas and in most cases failed miserably.
Our 2021 cherokee grey wolf came with the ever chill 12v fridge. So far, I love it. Our trailer came with a larger than average battery and a small solar panel to compensate. For a weekend warrior I can plug it in to power at home and keep it running and the battery charged between trips. My charger pulls less than 1 amp 110v to maintain charge and run the fridge so its demand on my 30 amp when camping is nice and low.
I had changed my 7.3 gas/electric out when they wanted $1500 to replace it. I put in a 1000 watt pure sine wave inverter and an auto transfer switch with a 10 cu/ft apartment fridge that fit on the same space (with modifications) in mine. The battery alone would power it for awhile but when it was hooked up to the Chevy Duramax it had 2 more batteries helping through the aux pin on trailer wiring. Worked great going down the road. Didn’t boondocks though, would probably needed a jump.
Great info, will rewatch again.
Great, this is spot on, I had a gas and electric refrigerator but to cool it or to keep it cool I had to put two or three pc fans in the back and even then it wasn't doing all that good. The 5th wheel that we are picking up tomorrow have the 12volt and I want to see how it does for us.
We had the option of the residential style inverter driven refer in our 2018 full profile 5th wheel, but opted for the gas electric version. Here is why...not so much for our RV, but my brother-in-law's 30 amp Super C motor home was drawing shore power and kept tripping breakers in the 112 degree outdoor heat while running his single AC full time. They could not run anything else like a crock-pot without tripping a breaker. I suggested he switch his gas electric refer over to propane which gave 5-10 amps back to the RV to power other stuff while keeping the AC & refer running well and very cold. It worked very well.
you can also convert a gas electric to a 12 volt dc or 110 volt ac. Mortons on the Move did it with their gas electric fridge freezer. If the gas electric fridge starts to wear out, you can change it without changing the entire fridge freezer
Every Gas electric RV fridge I've seen could already run on either 12v or 120v (sometimes both). They suck a lot of power when doing so though.
I ordered my 2020 Grand Design Solitude 5th wheel with a gas electric fridge because I like to have options. Things happen and I like my bases covered. I live in my rig full time but I also travel to places where I boon dock. So when I ordered my rig I checked the box for the solar package, lithium batteries, a 3000w inverter along with a 5500 Onan generator. The fridge can run off my batteries if there is no shore power because all of my outlets are hot. It can run off of propane or the generator also. We have been experiencing rolling blackouts in the area where I live and this set up has proven to be worth it's weight in gold.
I have a 12v in my 5th wheel. Love the thing. I think it is just the right size for travel and it can get super cold super quick. It really doesn't put a big draw on the batteries.
This is a good breakdown of the RV refrigerator types. I personally prefer my gas - electric refrigerator, which even the basics are poorly understood - up until this video.
I found it’s necessary to run the gas side of the refrigerator every so often or it won’t cool as readily when used.
We are just in the process of ordering a new fifth wheel , so this is timely. We're going to go with residential , also we saw your other video about what you should order , so also going with the disc brakes .
Thanks so much for these , really appreciate it.
Happy New year
Another advantage to 12v compressor fridge's is more space in the same cabinet size. For instance, a new 12v compressor fridge of 10 cubic feet takes the place of a 7 cubic foot absorption fridge. The reason is there isn't a big cooling unit hanging off the back of the fridge any more. That 3 cubic feet is a HUGE difference. Another plus, 12 volt systems are designed to run in enclosed spaces, you can plug up / insulate the vent area that your previous absorption fridge needed. I recently replaced mine with a 12v system and I LOVE it. I've never liked absorption fridges and as soon as the one in my motorhome started giving me trouble, I ditched it....never to go back again. I also have a modest solar / battery system and it's been capable enough to handle extended boondocking.
Another great review. I guess we will have to wait to see what style refrigerator you get with your new RV! Another tip to pass along for gas/electric refrigerator users, is to park the side of the RV that has the refrigerator ventilation in the shade, if possible.
You forgot to mention that a small gen (2000 watts) or just a 100 watt solar panel and a pair of 6volt batteries will keep a 12V compressor fridge happy for a extended time. Goodbye to the fire breathing dinosaur absorption fridge. No worry if you will end up a burnt marshmallow if your absorption fridge misbehaves. Some dealers are refusing to order rv's with a residential fridge as they know it's just a matter of time before the road vibration kills them.
The 12V compressor fridge with a pair of 6V deep cycle batteries with just one or two 100 watt panels on the roof or easier yet a "solar panel suitcase" on the ground would work along with just a 2000watt gen for cloudy days to replenish battery capacity.
The new 12V compressor driven fridge is the clear winner in all applications.
Awesome info! It really helps make the design easier
I think 12V is the future, as they become bigger you will see them even more. In most cases one solar panel and one battery is sufficient enough to keep the refrigerator running smoothly. I have excluded any non-12v refrigerators for my 2020 boondocking travel trailer.
Great review have been thinking about a 12v system. Maybe next a short solar system review to run a 12v. Thanks for reviewing
Most any Reliable RV service dealer will tell you that residential fridges are Not designed for the Rolling Earthquake Environment of an RV. They are for Park living for the most part. One type I never hear anyone mention is the 3-Way Gas/Electric/12 volt ...either 6 cubic feet or 8 cubic feet made by Dometic. The best of All worlds if size is not your most important issue. And the Dometics are designed for RV living. I really appreciate this Refrigerator review as it really clarified most of the questions an RVer might have. You do such great work. Thank you, bill in Florida. P.S. I sure would like to know your first name or what handle you go by.
A possible work around solution to the capacity issue would be a 10-cubic feet non-freezer 12-V refrigerator and a 10-cubic feet non-refrigerator freezer with drawers (popular in Europe). In other words, a stand-alone 10-ft^3 12-V refrigerator and a stand-alone 10-ft^3 12-V freezer could replace the residential 20+ ft^3 fridge.
The 12v is tempting a few reasons. I currently have a gas/electric. It worked for a couple months, especially when it was brand new and I was on the road for a month but after a year or so it stopped working on gas. Still works fine on electric. Maybe it's a control board issue, but I haven't bothered to troubleshoot because I'm mostly plugged in when we use our TT. A residential would be nice for its cooling power to get warm things cold when you're plugged in, but I think a 12v would be a nice compromise, especially if it would run off the coach battery while you're going down the road for 4-5 hours. Also, I really don't like propane. My future rig will be 100% electric or electric/diesel if I get a class A.
Great overview. I have a Renogy DC to DC charger connected to my truck that charges my 4 lead Acid batteries that run my residential fridge via a 1000 watt pure sine inverter. This is required when your travelling a long distance to your final plug in destination, in my case from Ottawa to Arizona. With the DC charger you can boondock on your way with a full fridge and have a full charge when you stop for the night.
If your always going to stay at RV parks, I’d go with residential. They cool down so much faster and stay colder. Gas/electric have a hard time keeping up in hot weather. They have the advantage of being able to run off gas while on the road. Some people don’t like to do this though.
Absorption is my favorite ❤❤
Very informative... Thanks for taking the time.
I know a good bit about solar and batteries, so I can say this. Anytime you want to use AC power off any battery system, it will cost more power to run. Your inverter will have to use power to convert power from DC to AC. Even with a top of the line inverter you could have as much as 10% or more power lost due to the power conversion. So if your AC powered device is rated for 100 watts, then you could pull 110 watts off the battery, as just an example. This is also true for AC to DC conversions as well. So I think the best refrigerator for you should be based on how and where you use it, and how you plan to power and keep it serviced.
I don’t off grid so I prefer my residential fridge. But those things are meant to run and left on...so for me I have the luxury of leaving mine plugged in continuously even when the camper is in storage. I’ve had my Samsung on the road for 5 years and no issues. Can’t say that for my previous traditional RV fridge’s of days gone by.
12v low power consumption. Try a Engel fridge/freezer. We have 2 of them in our rv when we travel. Work awesome!
The only thing that makes since to me is a residential style in a 5th wheel. A small portable generator is needed to boondock in a 5th wheel no matter what refrigerator you have. Small generators are cheap and an easy solution to all power concerns. Residential style are much better insulated, if you have an invertor issue on a trip, the refrigerator will stay plenty cool during travel until you can plug in or run your generator for a few hours.
12 volt is the way to go. I had the gas/electric in my old camper and now have a 12 volt dc in my new camper. The new fridge holds much more, cools down way faster, and I can keep it on (safely) while going down the road. We don't do any boon docking so that's not an issue for us.
Wow, I learned something, thank you.
My 35 year old 10 cuft Propane/electric RV frig works perfectly. Even on the hottest Texas summer day when it's 116f outside. Trouble is it draws 350 watts when running (6 kilowatt/hrs per day empty). But will run a month on a 20lb tank of propane. Trick is to keep the "chimney" clean and defrost every 3 months.. My 21 year old 3 cuft gas/elec rv frig about half that. a cheap 120v compressor frig from wally world non frost free draws about 1/3 the watt load but doesn't run on propane..
I have 12v compressor mobile Dometic cfx3 45 and it is awesome. My 1000w generator runs it for nearly 5 days without charging at all. And with solar i got 100% battery everyday..
10 ft cu is very good. Americans must eat less for good health. A residential fridge use probably 600 w to 1300w per day or more. My small 12v compressor uses 192w per day as most of time it draws 2w and 41w when the compressor run for 10/15 seconds so at the end it uses less than 8w per hour. And we have all the food we need for camping. With a 10 cu ft and freezer 12V compressor i could have food for a week and more.
Went from a Norcold gas/electric in our old trailer to a Norcold 12v in the new one. 12v seems to work very well and more efficiently than the gas/electric model. The 10cuft 12v is pretty roomy especially for the weekend trips.
Another great video sir / I was just talking about this topic with some friends ... our vibe has an electric refrigerator ... the only down side is of my rv isn’t plugged in the day before we leave it isn’t cold until the second day of camping ... but the size is worth it for us
If - when our RV fridge dies, I'm definitely going for the all 12volt model. It has a compressor and I think it's what the Morton's did on their own in the conversion, take out the gas and make it all electric. Now you can get the complete fridge for around $1200.00 or so for a 10-foot that fits in the size of an 8-foot. I've read a lot of things saying the residential fridge is great IF you plan on staying at full hookup parks. I've read those literally decimate the batteries if boondocking. I wouldn't ever want one.
If you factor in the cost of the inverter to power a residential refrigerator it's not any cheaper than a Gas/Electric unit and if you get the Lithium Ion batteries and Solar, it's a very expensive option. Where they shine over the others is that frozen food stays frozen in the heat of summer. Try keeping Ice Cream hard in a Gas/Electric freezer. It's soft serve at best.
In my mind, residential Refrigerators aren't built with the idea in mind they they are going to be bouncing down a highway every weekend. They're perfect for people who are snowbirds or full timers that spend a few months at a time at an RV park.
We have a 12 cu.ft. Gas/Electric in our Fifth Wheel and an Electric 4.1 Cu.Ft. refrigerator in our outdoor kitchen. It works for us but we're looking into adding a small electric freezer for when we become snowbirds for the ice cream treats!
We have a 10cu ft 12v fridge. It uses 48w when compressor is running. Really gets cold quick. I didn’t realize is was inappropriate for boondocking when I bought the small TT and ran out of power in less than a day. Really wanted to boondock so looked into lithium and solar. Ended up with a 1500 watt hour lithium power pack (confusingly called “solar generator”) with built in 500w solar charge controller and 340w of solar panels on pickup bed rack. Now run fridge on power pack and everything else on house battery. Super easy setup, relatively cheap and can go about 3 days between charges if traveling and good sun can charge in about 5 hours from empty when in camp.
The marine refrigeration industry has some good 12 Volt options, for those looking for a 12 Volt compressor refrigerator.
the 2020 Shasta Phoenix 381RE comes with a 14.7 cubic foot Gas and Electric Hisense
I am just into my eleventh camper. This and the last one have/had residential fridges. My test for a fridge is the hardness of ice cream when I go to dip it. The gas electric ones just barely will keep ice cream at 90 degrees outside temp. The residential ones do not have a problem. I have the luxury of inside storage with power. I keep the fridge on all the time. I think that is the secret to the longevity of the fridge.
You don't have to be boondocking to need a non-120V solution for your fridge! This weekend the power was so bad at the campground we were at the my EMS repeatedly shut down the feed. I ended up needing to switch my fridge to propane and turn off my converter on order to keep the AC working.
A 12V fridge would only have worked in that situation with a few hundred watts of solar or a BIG battery bank. I'm actually hoping to have all 3 in my next trailer as not having to be obsessive about getting the trailer level to avoid crystalization of the refrigerant would be nice.
So while you're on the road and your house batteries are being charged by the alternator in your tow vehicle, the 12 volt refrigerator will continue to work during your travels and the house battery should be substantially charged to continue to cool the frig. while the tow vehicle is stationary if you're not plugged into shore power. Refrain from opening the frig. too many times while off grid until the next morning. I carry a generator in the back of my truck that I run overnight if I'm staying in a Cabela's or Bass Pro Shop parking lot, so there is a continuous source of power.
Thank you for the info!
Thanks! Informative. Would a 12V 10cu.ft. fridge + a 12V chest freezer still be more efficient than 1 huge residential fridge?
For quick meals, frozen stuff are easy to use and cook. I actually use more freezer space than fridge space even at home. So the 12V fridge for day to day use and the 12V chest freezer more for storage and just transfer as the fridge gets emptier.
I don't know if you're aware of this ,but those those gas electric refrigerators don't have a pilot light anymore they have electric start on them now days and as long as you keep the area clean the combustion area they was really good but I've Been Told
I love this stuff!! Thank you!
Small generator back up on a big Lithium battery bank and inverter system seems to be the way to go, you will need 400 to1000 solor watts of panel to power that and would have no issues running that refrigerator and both air units too. At that point how much water can you take is your main factors Power duration isn't anymore.
Another Advantage to 12 Volt Fridge -- No Hole in Roof or Side of Body. Less Holes equal less Leaks.
Residential refrigerators are that - a home refrig. - NOT intended to be in a "rolling tornado". Many dealers, including Haylett, will not work on them without a lot of money up front.
You forgot that residentual fridges are hard to work on: rv dealers won't work on them because they are not rv equiptment. Also they are not set up to be bouned around while boodocking.
Can you give us some options for smaller solar panels or something to help with keeping the house battery charged when we do have a 12 volt fridge? I don't even know where to begin to look (as far as what's good). Thanks!
Thanks for the info.
that's also got to add a LOT of weight to that slide!
I had a 12v fride in my boat using what boaters call a house battery. Need to recharge start the engine, for RV's if you don't have a generator, plug into your tow vehicle. Problem with inverters, they constantly consume power, a lot of it. 12v refrigerator cycle on & off, invertors draw power constantly. Check your manual, versus the Amp hours of your battery too.
Most residential refrigerators switch to AC and off inverter when plugged into campground. They only run if your on the road traveling or boondocking.
Newer RVs don't use a pilot. It uses an electrode which runs off the 12VDC system.
What about 3-way fridges? A lot of Truck camers have them (most are mini fridges but some like the Lance 850 are the medium-sized). They can be powered by 12v, Propane, or 110v.
Also in regards to 12v and 3-way refrigerators, how well can a vehicle's alternator power them? Could I use my vehicle to power it in transit or would it charge too slowly? Would the size of the fridge effect things? Is there a minimum amount of amperage I should look for in an alternator?
My 12v is awesome
I realize this is an old post, but could you possibly do an update? You did a great job comparing residential vs gas/electric, but I’m looking for information to decide if I want to go 110 residential or 12v residential. Thanks!
Would love to have a 12 volt compressor fridge in my rig. Fit and power might not allow me to make the change from the gas/electric absorption fridge.
Very informative but you forgot to mention that you can always run your generator if your batteries run low.
Informative, thank you!
My new trailer has solar and a 12v refrigerator. Unfortunately the refrigerator in my outdoor kitchen is 120v. I will get the trailer in a couple of months (it's being built)
Explanations well done! Great information 👏🏼👏🏼 ... an interesting fact, not relevant to the purpose of the video, but USA must be the only country in the world that keeps eggs in the fridge...😁
True, but we have a good reason for it. To avoid bacteria growth, Eggs must maintain roughly the same temperature and humidity constantly. Because the US is so geography large and eggs that folks buy at their local store or market may come from a State a thousand miles away, the FDA requires commercially sold eggs to be stored and transported below 45°F (7°C). Once eggs have been refrigerated, they must be kept refrigerated to prevent condensation from forming on the shell if they warm up, thus causing bacteria growth.
It would be great to see NOBO 19.1 by forest river and atc toy hauler reviews.
Can you do a video explaining solar power on rv's?
So if I heard you correctly if I go with a residential refrigerator at a rv park. Plug into shore because if I plug into the rv outlet it will drain my battery and I would have to get a bigger inverter?
Great Video
The only concern to me( Gas, Electric or both ) is a fridge with multi drawers or doors in an RV. Even the higher end ones are not as efficient as a one or two door.. Especially the cheap ones ( Haier, Magic Chef )will use almost twice the power for the same cu.ft. Not a big deal when plugged into someone else's power but when boondocking it's not good..
Great video! Could you do a comparison video on benefits of a triple axle vs double axle on a 5th. Wheel. The old days I saw triple axle 5th wheels all over. They then went almost extinct. Now triple axles are popping up again. Which is better?
Gas electric still the way to go
🤔my future rv should have to come with a residential fridge 😀
Questions , can you run that residential Fridge , while driving , will you get ( Compressor issue ) ??? Yhank you !
neodymium magnet improvements mean DC motor improvements..... absorption refrigerators may fade.....
Danalord is one of the better fridges I’ve had mine for four years no problem with the trailer I had before that was nine years old no problems my brother has a brand new unit with a normal cold he’s replace the board for times and not much satisfaction from nor cold they also make a 12 V compressor unit to replace a gas propane fridgeJust take out the gas unit and install the 12 V compressor unit into your Gymatic fridge and way to go with a 12 V compressor fridge
That should’ve been Doumedic
I want a residential frost-free 120 volts, 10 cubic feet, for a 26-foot tongue-pull with about 1600 watts of solar on the roof...what's a good one for me?
Hi JD. Ive enjoyed your videos for a couple years now. I own a ram 3500 srw 4x4 diesel. Wife and I are wanting to buy a fifth wheel not over about 36 ft long. We don't need bunks since it's just us and the dogs. What are some 5th wheels you'd recommend us looking into for these needs? Prefer king bed, 2 a/c unit. Thanks for your help.
Hi! I can’t find a way to DM you, so I’ll try here and hope you get it. I love your videos. You seem very sincere and trustworthy. I have a Ram 2500 with the 6.7 Cummins with a crew cab and short bed. 68RFE too. I’m looking at dump trailers. I like Texas Pride. Fo my 1st trailer I’m thinking 16 foot, bumper pull. Can you also point me in a travel trailer direction with a quality brand.
You stated that a residential fridge is cheaper than a gas/electric. While that may be true, the added cost of an inverter and all those extra batteries far outweighs the initial cost savings.
Electronic fridges only cool down to 65F if it is 100F. Your 70F home will take it down to @ 40F. Not much good in the desert south west.
I figure a residential refrigerator is much easier to move if it’s in a toy hauler.