I own a Troybilt 32 ton splitter and I had the same problem as you with the fluid coming out of the tank breather. As mine is a standard pipe thread, and I'd say yours is as well, the solution was to buy a six inch extension pipe which are already threaded from a plumbers shop. You'll need a cap as well and also you will have to drill a hole in the top of the pipe just under where the cap screws on for the breather hole. You will still have to have the splitter fairly level though in any case. It looks like you will have to get the welder out and modify the angle on the plate up top. It should be fairly easy. The Troybilt is not so heavy to lift onto a towball, but I fitted a jockey wheel to it anyway. I mostly operate my splitter vertically. It has never had any problem splitting any type of wood, even narly old Box. I find that if the block is very tough, the splitter will keep going until the block explodes apart. I have suffered a few painful shin injuries until I bought shin guards which I wear when splitting and even when using the chainsaw. They are hard plastic and won't stop a saw chain, but do stop blocks of wood causing injuries when out in the scrub. I think your splitter is about 25 ton? Maybe you can tell me. By the look of the wood, it's doing a good job. Maybe good firewood, what type is it? By the way, I think you'll love the Honda, I have three, a 5hp on the elevator, the 9hp on the splitter and a 13hp on the woodchipper and they are very reliable. Thanks for the video, I enjoyed seeing an Aussie using a splitter for a change.
Thanks the advice and everything else you wrote. They only quote the pressure in PSI (3000) rather than the tonnage, so its hard to compare with other brands. Some of those trees I'm splitting were planted 25 years ago by someone else and they are not local, so I have no idea! Some burn better than others and some have the bark come off easier than others. Looks like I need to get the angle grinder and the welder out. Cheers.
Try flipping the work tray mounting brackets with each other so that the anti-rattle bolts push from the other direction, or leave them out altogether. it might be enough to change the angle of the tray. Agree with what you say about the thick foot plate and vertical splitting. I made my own platform that slips around the foot to make a relatively level area for the big rounds to sit on.
Thanks for the advice. I'll have a go at changing those bolts around. Regards the plate. Also a good idea. Sometimes you just have to manufacture something yourself.
Great review! Have you tried extending the Ram when you ant to move the splitter into the vertical position? I find it much easier. (Retract it when going back to horizontal.) I have the Edison/Baumr version. I swapped the work tray to the same side as yours, then added a bar to the side of the tray to stop timber falling off the tray.
Not yet. I'll give that a go next time. The stuff I am splitting is just light enough to manage in the horizontal position which is much easier (for me).
Mine has a 6 bolt per spacer slider arragement and it wears, causing a space under the wedge which causes debri to jam up under it, always difficult to clear and eventually the cast iron fitting at the end of the ram broke, still waiting for parts, over one month. I had Flipped the sliders over to utilize the unworn side but this meant I could only use 5 bolts per side due to the (planned?) poor design they are not meant to be flipped. If the sliders were about an inch longer and had an extra hole they could be flipped and reversed, increasing this wearing part's life by 400 percent. An touch of grease might help also.
I have had mine for 6 years ! The oil coming out is means its overfull for starters there is no pressure in the tank thats why it has a breather ,Its just to full and should be down 40-50mm from the filler hole too allow for expansion of the oil when very hot , The wood i have put over mine in that time has been some of the hardest ,knottiest timber ever it has split everything to the point i though some of the wood would break the machine it hasn't &under pressure i have had wood flying off the machine due to the pressure and knottiests of woods ! The wind up jockey wheel is there for looks? Why are you lifting it onto the hitch ? If you move the axle forward ,when you stand it up to cut the wheels of timber it will topple over ,as for the tray take the adjustment bolts out and park it level the tray will then droop outwards ! Whoever said about always parking it on a lean doesn't have any idea ,it should only be fill with hydraulic oil to the required level ! We have 8 of these in our friends group ,and not one problem
Thanks for the feedback. I think the guys at the shop were pretty slack. I have had a few problems due to them and not the best advice. I'll give all that a go except for the jockey wheel. It's just too low on full wind out to go on the tow ball.
Interesting about the table - the table on my splitter was fitted to the other side (the side with the control lever), so if I have it slanted to keep the pressure relief higher, the table slopes away and the wood stays in place. The catch rail supports also have holes drilled on both sides for the table mounts, so you should just be able to flip it around to the other side also. As for the weight, yeah it's heavy, and can only just tilt it to vertical mode on my own. However, the jockey wheel should wind up and down to help you get it on the hitch rather than lifting it?
Also, horizontal to vertical and back again is MUCH easier if you extend the wedge to it's full extension - it becomes much more balanced and easier to lift, as not all the weight is on the back of the machine.
The side trays are crap, I added one to my splitter 12 months ago, constantly comes loose, and larger logs catch and bend the corner of the table when splitting.
I own a Troybilt 32 ton splitter and I had the same problem as you with the fluid coming out of the tank breather. As mine is a standard pipe thread, and I'd say yours is as well, the solution was to buy a six inch extension pipe which are already threaded from a plumbers shop. You'll need a cap as well and also you will have to drill a hole in the top of the pipe just under where the cap screws on for the breather hole. You will still have to have the splitter fairly level though in any case.
It looks like you will have to get the welder out and modify the angle on the plate up top. It should be fairly easy.
The Troybilt is not so heavy to lift onto a towball, but I fitted a jockey wheel to it anyway.
I mostly operate my splitter vertically. It has never had any problem splitting any type of wood, even narly old Box. I find that if the block is very tough, the splitter will keep going until the block explodes apart. I have suffered a few painful shin injuries until I bought shin guards which I wear when splitting and even when using the chainsaw. They are hard plastic and won't stop a saw chain, but do stop blocks of wood causing injuries when out in the scrub.
I think your splitter is about 25 ton? Maybe you can tell me. By the look of the wood, it's doing a good job. Maybe good firewood, what type is it? By the way, I think you'll love the Honda, I have three, a 5hp on the elevator, the 9hp on the splitter and a 13hp on the woodchipper and they are very reliable.
Thanks for the video, I enjoyed seeing an Aussie using a splitter for a change.
Thanks the advice and everything else you wrote. They only quote the pressure in PSI (3000) rather than the tonnage, so its hard to compare with other brands. Some of those trees I'm splitting were planted 25 years ago by someone else and they are not local, so I have no idea! Some burn better than others and some have the bark come off easier than others. Looks like I need to get the angle grinder and the welder out. Cheers.
Try flipping the work tray mounting brackets with each other so that the anti-rattle bolts push from the other direction, or leave them out altogether. it might be enough to change the angle of the tray.
Agree with what you say about the thick foot plate and vertical splitting. I made my own platform that slips around the foot to make a relatively level area for the big rounds to sit on.
Thanks for the advice. I'll have a go at changing those bolts around. Regards the plate. Also a good idea. Sometimes you just have to manufacture something yourself.
Have you thought about bolting some thick rubber mat onto the log tray, some old conveyor belt
Not a bad idea! Certainly needs something to stop the rolling.
Great review! Have you tried extending the Ram when you ant to move the splitter into the vertical position? I find it much easier. (Retract it when going back to horizontal.)
I have the Edison/Baumr version. I swapped the work tray to the same side as yours, then added a bar to the side of the tray to stop timber falling off the tray.
Not yet. I'll give that a go next time. The stuff I am splitting is just light enough to manage in the horizontal position which is much easier (for me).
Mine has a 6 bolt per spacer slider arragement and it wears, causing a space under the wedge which causes debri to jam up under it, always difficult to clear and eventually the cast iron fitting at the end of the ram broke, still waiting for parts, over one month. I had Flipped the sliders over to utilize the unworn side but this meant I could only use 5 bolts per side due to the (planned?) poor design they are not meant to be flipped. If the sliders were about an inch longer and had an extra hole they could be flipped and reversed, increasing this wearing part's life by 400 percent. An touch of grease might help also.
All good points. A bit of grease is always useful, as it is on any wearable surface.
@@muckleman thank you
I have had mine for 6 years ! The oil coming out is means its overfull for starters there is no pressure in the tank thats why it has a breather ,Its just to full and should be down 40-50mm from the filler hole too allow for expansion of the oil when very hot , The wood i have put over mine in that time has been some of the hardest ,knottiest timber ever it has split everything to the point i though some of the wood would break the machine it hasn't &under pressure i have had wood flying off the machine due to the pressure and knottiests of woods ! The wind up jockey wheel is there for looks? Why are you lifting it onto the hitch ? If you move the axle forward ,when you stand it up to cut the wheels of timber it will topple over ,as for the tray take the adjustment bolts out and park it level the tray will then droop outwards ! Whoever said about always parking it on a lean doesn't have any idea ,it should only be fill with hydraulic oil to the required level ! We have 8 of these in our friends group ,and not one problem
Thanks for the feedback. I think the guys at the shop were pretty slack. I have had a few problems due to them and not the best advice. I'll give all that a go except for the jockey wheel. It's just too low on full wind out to go on the tow ball.
Interesting about the table - the table on my splitter was fitted to the other side (the side with the control lever), so if I have it slanted to keep the pressure relief higher, the table slopes away and the wood stays in place.
The catch rail supports also have holes drilled on both sides for the table mounts, so you should just be able to flip it around to the other side also.
As for the weight, yeah it's heavy, and can only just tilt it to vertical mode on my own. However, the jockey wheel should wind up and down to help you get it on the hitch rather than lifting it?
Also, horizontal to vertical and back again is MUCH easier if you extend the wedge to it's full extension - it becomes much more balanced and easier to lift, as not all the weight is on the back of the machine.
The side trays are crap, I added one to my splitter 12 months ago, constantly comes loose, and larger logs catch and bend the corner of the table when splitting.