Thank you. I hope more "old timers" like myself can do more of these types of tree tutorials. Some of what we do is going to be lost unless more of our youth choose this path as a career.
I watched this video in May, 2021. So it is about eight years old. Everything in this video is STILL VALID. 100%! I thought I had seen another video of yours on cabling. But I didn't get what to do with each of the seven wires after the cable went around the thimble. This time it seems very clear to me. The last cable I installed was for a friend in New Joisey. I think I used clamps. But now if I can find sets of J-lags in RH and LH threads I intend to wax them up and keep them ready for use in my kit. Everything in this video was very clear. Thanks ever so much.
I think I'm finally seeing the difference between an Arborist and a Tree Surgeon. I believe a tree surgeon would come along and just remove the tree and charge more money. I'm a hippy at heart and firmly believe in the way trees help us day to day. Im educating my self in Arboriculture for sure! Thanks so much Blair
Thank you for this great video. I'm having a tree trimmed and cabled tomorrow and I like to be informed on what is being done. I hope he displays the know how and pride in good work that you show in this video.
Thanks for the video. I just got a new job with a tree company. I don't know much about the industry. I'm all over RUclips trying to learn as much as I can. I love how you care about quality. Just by the way you are concerned about the look of the wrap let's me know how much you care. Great video. BTW you can't see everything you are doing but you are telling us everything in such detail you don't need to see. And if you are confused about what he is doing because you can't see just call a pro before you get killed. Damn millennial!
Excellent workmanship. It’s nice to watch an individual with years of experience do a job and explain in detail how and why they are doing each step. Thanks for putting to effort into creating this tutorial for others to watch.
Richard Butler thank you for that kind comment. Sadly, the use of cables is often sold in excess as a revenue generator rather than helping a bad situation. So often, I see trees cables for no reason.
Very nice! Exactly how I was taught, 40 years ago! I eventually switched to high tensile cable and diamond dust wraps for time purposes but I miss doing a nice NEAT cable wrap. Still use my bit and brace though! I really enjoy your videos.
Thank you Blair for the awesome tutorial... I'm fairly confident I could do a great cabling job now because of you.. Excellent teaching skills sir... Big thumbs up...
arboristBlairGlenn Will do sir, Point is, if needed? I now understand the basic concept and would be able to do it "Old School" if need be... I still learned a great deal from your post... Thank you for that...
Very nice and detailed installation. I want to do some job like that on my tree that was damaged in the December ice storm in Texas. Thanks for your nice and detailed video.
I've never seen cables spliced like that, I learnt something today! In the marine industry, everything is pressure swaged.Thimbles don't just prevent chafing, they stop the wire being "crippled" by being pulled into too sharp a bend around the terminal point. Crippling a wire can weaken it by around 50% and cause fatigue loading on individual strands as the wire loads and unloads and the wire flexes at the terminal point.Not using a thimble also makes it hard to set a permanent tension on the cable, as the wire wants to keep straightening into a harder, tighter bend. The thimble prevents that and allows more accurate tensioning.
Everything in the Merchant Marine is pressure swaged these days. In my days it was a Marlin Spike and proper splicing. Glenn, get a six-inch-long rod a little less than a half-inch diameter. Get a hole made about the size of the individual strand. Slip the strand into the hole and use that piece of rod as a kind of spanner to twist the wire. You will get a tight clean twist without much of an effort.
what an exceptional video Blair I have installed thousands of cables , through bolts . but I was taught to use the preform method . I have come across hundreds of cable jobs similar , to the this one you show here . thanks do much for so many years of excellent information Joe Rapanut ISA 10168AT
@@arboristBlairGlenn I tried it once , I believe it was in Santa Rosa area there was an ISA around 2019 , what an exceptional tool to add to what we do as arborist. I’ve never used the raptor.
Great video! I'm used to the newer systems. Preformed wraps and lag bolts also Cobra systems. But there is still alot of wisdom and art in the "old school" ways. Keep climbing and stay safe!
Thanks for the comment. I'm sure I will get critics to this tutorial and I know things are changing but I also believe that it is important to understand all the processes. I have also used other techniques. Hope you continue to watch the videos as I put them out there.
All I have to say Mr. Blair is that am glad you never pulled out this excellent tutorial video, otherwise I wouldn't be learning anything today!😂 thanks boss🙏👌
I need to cable a large hackberry, but had planned on drilling all the way through each trunk & use eye bolts, turnbuckles & cable clamps. Any thoughts or recommendations?
You know, there are so many opinions about how to do something or why it is right or why it is wrong. I am of the opinion that the person doing the job makes the decisions based on what is observed. If I were to cable the tree as high as you say then the size of the limbs are way too small. All I am trying to do here is to minimise the movement in this defect. Steel cables have been used correctly for decades. They are also used wrong in many cases. Sorry Daniel, I won't "pull" this video.
Exactly - it's a tradeoff to go 2/3 up. Leverage is better but limb strength less. 2/3 should be viewed as a rule of thumb not an immutable law. I am cabling my own tree now and choosing placement based on multiple factors. As a wide angled, spreading crotch the higher up then the cable length increases very rapidly. Longer cable means more stretch over time which means more slack and perhaps an ineffective restraint years down the road. Also a very long cable high up is not as aesthetically pleasing as my placement choice. Great job Blair! I am going to do my tree your way, old school. The only difference is instead of lag screws I picked up some very heavy duty U bolts from a military surplus outlet. They came off of tactical heavy trucks. Would you place U bolts in a horizontal configuration to avoid the heartwood more or in a vertical alignment which would then pierce the center of the limb twice?
wow after reading some of the comments I'm litteraly laughing out loud. okay for one there's always going to be constructive criticism but this is the best cabling video on youtube so no need for that. second of all it is totally possible to cable a tree to high. in fact I'd be willing to say it's better to cable a little low say 1/2 the height from crotch to top, than 75-80% or 3/4... Especially when the tops are as small as the ones in the video it would be too small to but in a j-lag
here's an idea when your at home you can wrap one end of the cable on the thimble. this way you should have access to your home workbench in vice to make things a little easier. that way when you get to the job you only have to do one side to do. you can still measure and everything on site. also thanks for the great tutorial I really appreciate it thank you
Is there anything special about the wax that you would use on these lags in the tree? Are there types of wax with compounds that would increase decay or cause any other problems?
nice job! an old timer taught me a simple trick to get really clean wraps. after each individual complete turn, if you bend the strand up approximately 30 degrees, your next wrap will fit snug like it was done with a machine. a clean wrap makes the job look so much better, and prevents it from being pulled over the others. Blair, you use a simple clove hitch w/ a half hitch for your climb line? no taut line hitch?
Michigan Mister I use a taught line hitch. Don't use a Blake hitch but my guys do. I like a free sliding knot and in so comfortable with it, hey, I'm old school.
Thx. May I use gate-post lag bolts and log chain, with the width inside the links just barely wider than the vertical part of lag bolts? Alternatively would All-Thread installed all the width of limb be much stronger than any lag only in half of limb width? For medium size tree what is the minimum height above the very weak V fork to attach the cable/ chain?
Hi Blair - Thanks so much for this video. I have a tree that I have braced but it needs to be cabled and your instruction was great. Can you reply with where you source the proper materials? I have been to the big box stores and have not seen the reverse J bolts, large enough thimbles or the 7 strand common cable. I would also value your comments on the use of a through bolt through the entire limb with an eye for the cable. Keep up the good work and thanks again! Chris
You can order cable supplies from any of the Arborist supply web sites. I would recommend one but that should come with a sponsoship😊 Through bolts can be good but also make for a larger wound. Judge your decisions on location, angle, weight and purpose.
Two questions for experienced tree cabler/arborists: (1) Is a Chinese Elm an acceptable tree for branch cabling? I know that for some trees the wood is too soft and not suitable for cabling. (2) How important is it for the two branch J/eye-bolts to be lined up (and drilled) co-linearly? If drilled at an angular error then the cable will not pull axially at the J/eye-bolts, but rather will create a slight lateral angle force which could apply force (of the J/eye-bolt shank) on the side of the hole and perhaps widen the hole over time. Is this a common problem or not generally an issue?
@@arboristBlairGlenn Hah! Yours was the first, and then I just spent the next 2 hours watching cabling videos and then just finished watching the Tree Job from Hell 30 minute video that turned out to be yours, as well. Great job on that! Your A-frame saved the day(s). Led me to your website and to my pleasure you're (semi-)local. I'll give a call and maybe you can do an assessment on my 4 big trees with various issues (nothing urgent, but want to plan for winter pruning and perhaps some corrective measures). Look forward to talking! And thanks for replying! Btw - great website! So many videos; at least 5 or 6 I need to watch. Thanks so much for sharing your many years of accumulated experience!
Good video. The placement height needs to be determined by the arborist on site. Also, steel is a good, reliable and inexpensive way to cable stout trees that don't sway too much, trees with good compartmentalization ability and trees with included bark.
The cable should be placed 2/3 the height above the split. I'm a certified arborist and I can tell you right now the higher you put the cable the better. It's not easy because it's farther apart but that will benefit the tree more.
Easy to say that without seeing the tree but I chose this location based on my understanding of the wood, the weight and the defect I'm trying to stabilize. I too am a Certified Arborist and this was my call.
tree care changed in the last 40 years, so did cableling maybe take some time and update maybe try light pruning, dynamic catch, little slack good luck with it
Come to New Zealand Blair. You'll love it. You and yours can stay with Debra and me for a time as short or as long. Put your feet up, talk trees, talk stuff, go on an adventure maybe. You'll love it. www.gracebrook.co.nz
Blair. You need to read the ANSI A300 (Part 3)-2013 34.3.2 Anchor(s) should be installed at or near a point two-thirds (2/3) of the length/height of the branch or leader to be supported, measured from the junction to be supported. The A300 is the industry standard that all profesional arborist adhere to. This video should be pulled and replaced with one that shows the proper installation of a cable to industry standards.
The guy I Paid Wrapped Cable Around Two Branches ...Bare Cable . Years Ago Has Grown In To Tree ! Not Good I Feel Will It Hurt Tree Been 10 Yrs . Thank U /;-))
wouldn't best practice be to cut down the tree if its a danger to the owner and the public ?... I mean I realize no one wants to cut down a tree, but sticking these tie in is just postponing the job for someone down the road... I'm no expert, just watched a slew of tree video's and if someone with your experience told me to chop it down, it'd been down yesterday..
If a cable is used to help make a weakness stronger, then it is a good thing. If the tree is ready to fail, then I advise accordingly. I have cabled trees before that should have been removed but get it in writing that the cables will not save the tree. They might help prevent a limb Fromm hitting a structure. So, cables are good and cables can be used wrong.
Boy, you sure are "taking the time to smell the roses " when you notice the strands on the cable job in your tree go in the same or alternate directions. I would do them the same but I bet more cable wrap jobs get hit by lightning then noticed by non tree people. Just saying
People not noticing your cabling is a sign of success. If wrapping the cable in the same direction gives the cable a more uniform beautiful look then all the merrier. Cables are ugly things and they can't spare anything that makes them look even marginally better. Besides, I'm pretty sure the birds are closely inspecting the work and judging.
Thank you. I hope more "old timers" like myself can do more of these types of tree tutorials. Some of what we do is going to be lost unless more of our youth choose this path as a career.
I watched this video in May, 2021. So it is about eight years old. Everything in this video is STILL VALID. 100%!
I thought I had seen another video of yours on cabling. But I didn't get what to do with each of the seven wires after the cable went around the thimble. This time it seems very clear to me.
The last cable I installed was for a friend in New Joisey. I think I used clamps. But now if I can find sets of J-lags in RH and LH threads I intend to wax them up and keep them ready for use in my kit. Everything in this video was very clear. Thanks ever so much.
I think I'm finally seeing the difference between an Arborist and a Tree Surgeon. I believe a tree surgeon would come along and just remove the tree and charge more money. I'm a hippy at heart and firmly believe in the way trees help us day to day. Im educating my self in Arboriculture for sure! Thanks so much Blair
Thank you for this great video. I'm having a tree trimmed and cabled tomorrow and I like to be informed on what is being done. I hope he displays the know how and pride in good work that you show in this video.
Likely done a different style than what I am showing here but then concept is the same.
Thanks for the video. I just got a new job with a tree company. I don't know much about the industry. I'm all over RUclips trying to learn as much as I can. I love how you care about quality. Just by the way you are concerned about the look of the wrap let's me know how much you care. Great video. BTW you can't see everything you are doing but you are telling us everything in such detail you don't need to see. And if you are confused about what he is doing because you can't see just call a pro before you get killed. Damn millennial!
Another good person to watch that is extremely knowledgeable is @august hunicke
Excellent workmanship. It’s nice to watch an individual with years of experience do a job and explain in detail how and why they are doing each step. Thanks for putting to effort into creating this tutorial for others to watch.
Richard Butler thank you for that kind comment. Sadly, the use of cables is often sold in excess as a revenue generator rather than helping a bad situation. So often, I see trees cables for no reason.
You, good Sir, are the real treasure of ISA. All the best!
JEEROFUKU fine compliment indeed, thank you.
Very nice! Exactly how I was taught, 40 years ago! I eventually switched to high tensile cable and diamond dust wraps for time purposes but I miss doing a nice NEAT cable wrap. Still use my bit and brace though! I really enjoy your videos.
I also use wraps but I enjoy the old way.
Thx great vid. I'm in the midst of a career change to arborist and it helps to watch and learn from the pro's. Be safe and keep up the great work.
Welcome to the world of trees
Thank you Blair for the awesome tutorial... I'm fairly confident I could do a great cabling job now because of you.. Excellent teaching skills sir... Big thumbs up...
Remember, this is the "old school" method.
arboristBlairGlenn Will do sir, Point is, if needed? I now understand the basic concept and would be able to do it "Old School" if need be... I still learned a great deal from your post... Thank you for that...
+Tyrone Layes thank you for your kind comments.
Thx for the great instruction mr. Blair
Very instructive. The cable tying especially. Thank you.
Very nice and detailed installation.
I want to do some job like that on my tree that was damaged in the December ice storm in Texas.
Thanks for your nice and detailed video.
I've never seen cables spliced like that, I learnt something today! In the marine industry, everything is pressure swaged.Thimbles don't just prevent chafing, they stop the wire being "crippled" by being pulled into too sharp a bend around the terminal point. Crippling a wire can weaken it by around 50% and cause fatigue loading on individual strands as the wire loads and unloads and the wire flexes at the terminal point.Not using a thimble also makes it hard to set a permanent tension on the cable, as the wire wants to keep straightening into a harder, tighter bend. The thimble prevents that and allows more accurate tensioning.
Thank you for the info. This is old school cabling.
Everything in the Merchant Marine is pressure swaged these days. In my days it was a Marlin Spike and proper splicing. Glenn, get a six-inch-long rod a little less than a half-inch diameter. Get a hole made about the size of the individual strand. Slip the strand into the hole and use that piece of rod as a kind of spanner to twist the wire. You will get a tight clean twist without much of an effort.
what an exceptional video Blair I have installed thousands of cables , through bolts . but I was taught to use the preform method . I have come across hundreds of cable jobs similar , to the this one you show here . thanks do much for so many years of excellent information
Joe Rapanut ISA 10168AT
Hey Joe, yeah, I’m old school all the way. However, I did get the Ronin so stay tuned for some new ideas.
@@arboristBlairGlenn I tried it once , I believe it was in Santa Rosa area there was an ISA around 2019 , what an exceptional tool to add to what we do as arborist. I’ve never used the raptor.
He's an ISA certified arborist since the 70s. You don't think he's already heard everything you guys are criticizing him for?
Thanks for the tree cabling show how , looks good and stable .
Excellent work....nice to see a real professional!!!
Great video! I'm used to the newer systems. Preformed wraps and lag bolts also Cobra systems. But there is still alot of wisdom and art in the "old school" ways. Keep climbing and stay safe!
I also use pre formed wraps but there is nothing wrong with the way it has been done for the last hundred years.
What do you mean by "performed wraps"?? I'm new into this field..thanks.
Good tutorial. Thanks for taking the time to do it.
Thanks, old school but still viable.
Nice work, Blair ... good tutorial!
Thanks for the comment. I'm sure I will get critics to this tutorial and I know things are changing but I also believe that it is important to understand all the processes. I have also used other techniques. Hope you continue to watch the videos as I put them out there.
All I have to say Mr. Blair is that am glad you never pulled out this excellent tutorial video, otherwise I wouldn't be learning anything today!😂 thanks boss🙏👌
Clear, informative and helpful. Thanks!
Eryk Strumienski my pleasure
Great knowledge base. Thanks for sharing
I need to cable a large hackberry, but had planned on drilling all the way through each trunk & use eye bolts, turnbuckles & cable clamps. Any thoughts or recommendations?
You know, there are so many opinions about how to do something or why it is right or why it is wrong. I am of the opinion that the person doing the job makes the decisions based on what is observed. If I were to cable the tree as high as you say then the size of the limbs are way too small. All I am trying to do here is to minimise the movement in this defect. Steel cables have been used correctly for decades. They are also used wrong in many cases. Sorry Daniel, I won't "pull" this video.
Exactly - it's a tradeoff to go 2/3 up. Leverage is better but limb strength less. 2/3 should be viewed as a rule of thumb not an immutable law. I am cabling my own tree now and choosing placement based on multiple factors. As a wide angled, spreading crotch the higher up then the cable length increases very rapidly. Longer cable means more stretch over time which means more slack and perhaps an ineffective restraint years down the road. Also a very long cable high up is not as aesthetically pleasing as my placement choice. Great job Blair! I am going to do my tree your way, old school. The only difference is instead of lag screws I picked up some very heavy duty U bolts from a military surplus outlet. They came off of tactical heavy trucks. Would you place U bolts in a horizontal configuration to avoid the heartwood more or in a vertical alignment which would then pierce the center of the limb twice?
different than how I was taught, but nice to see another way thanks for the lesson.
This is real old school stuff.
wow after reading some of the comments I'm litteraly laughing out loud. okay for one there's always going to be constructive criticism but this is the best cabling video on youtube so no need for that. second of all it is totally possible to cable a tree to high. in fact I'd be willing to say it's better to cable a little low say 1/2 the height from crotch to top, than 75-80% or 3/4... Especially when the tops are as small as the ones in the video it would be too small to but in a j-lag
nice work Glenn
Very informative, helped me a lot. Thank you!
This is an old video on that topic. There are newer ways to do the same thing now.
Thanks Blair. Good stuff.
This is an old video showing some old school techniques
Did the town of Carp cable the Torrey Pine?
Great work thanks for showing 👍
Old video and old style cabling but still a good concept for the practice.
here's an idea when your at home you can wrap one end of the cable on the thimble. this way you should have access to your home workbench in vice to make things a little easier. that way when you get to the job you only have to do one side to do. you can still measure and everything on site. also thanks for the great tutorial I really appreciate it thank you
Drew High I often do
Is there anything special about the wax that you would use on these lags in the tree? Are there types of wax with compounds that would increase decay or cause any other problems?
No, any kind of wax just makes threading it in go easier. Has nothing to do with helping the tree. Paste wax is easy
Awesome! Thanks Blair. I'm super grateful for your videos. Working on my ISA certification right now. @@arboristBlairGlenn
nice job! an old timer taught me a simple trick to get really clean wraps. after each individual complete turn, if you bend the strand up approximately 30 degrees, your next wrap will fit snug like it was done with a machine. a clean wrap makes the job look so much better, and prevents it from being pulled over the others. Blair, you use a simple clove hitch w/ a half hitch for your climb line? no taut line hitch?
Michigan Mister I use a taught line hitch. Don't use a Blake hitch but my guys do. I like a free sliding knot and in so comfortable with it, hey, I'm old school.
Thx. May I use gate-post lag bolts and log chain, with the width inside the links just barely wider than the vertical part of lag bolts? Alternatively would All-Thread installed all the width of limb be much stronger than any lag only in half of limb width? For medium size tree what is the minimum height above the very weak V fork to attach the cable/ chain?
You are asking me to advise you without seeing the tree or the gear. Sorry, can’t say.
Hi Blair - Thanks so much for this video. I have a tree that I have braced but it needs to be cabled and your instruction was great. Can you reply with where you source the proper materials? I have been to the big box stores and have not seen the reverse J bolts, large enough thimbles or the 7 strand common cable. I would also value your comments on the use of a through bolt through the entire limb with an eye for the cable. Keep up the good work and thanks again! Chris
You can order cable supplies from any of the Arborist supply web sites. I would recommend one but that should come with a sponsoship😊
Through bolts can be good but also make for a larger wound. Judge your decisions on location, angle, weight and purpose.
How do you come up with your pricing for different jobs?Thanks in advance.
Darth Vader for a cable install, it costs me about 30.00 in supplies. If I can do it alone, around 285.00. More for longer cables
Thank you for the video...very informative.
Two questions for experienced tree cabler/arborists: (1) Is a Chinese Elm an acceptable tree for branch cabling? I know that for some trees the wood is too soft and not suitable for cabling. (2) How important is it for the two branch J/eye-bolts to be lined up (and drilled) co-linearly? If drilled at an angular error then the cable will not pull axially at the J/eye-bolts, but rather will create a slight lateral angle force which could apply force (of the J/eye-bolt shank) on the side of the hole and perhaps widen the hole over time. Is this a common problem or not generally an issue?
Robert Mayer c. Elm is a very hardwood and I have cables many. Angle is important but explaining in a comment is not easy. Every tree is different.
@@arboristBlairGlenn Hah! Yours was the first, and then I just spent the next 2 hours watching cabling videos and then just finished watching the Tree Job from Hell 30 minute video that turned out to be yours, as well. Great job on that! Your A-frame saved the day(s). Led me to your website and to my pleasure you're (semi-)local. I'll give a call and maybe you can do an assessment on my 4 big trees with various issues (nothing urgent, but want to plan for winter pruning and perhaps some corrective measures). Look forward to talking! And thanks for replying! Btw - great website! So many videos; at least 5 or 6 I need to watch. Thanks so much for sharing your many years of accumulated experience!
What happened if lighting hits the cables?
Nice work! very good information. I need you to come cable one of my trees. ha ha
Keith Castleberry thanks Keith
excuse me, i want to ask where could i find the law stopping filling the tree hole. thanks. :)
You need to look at the tree before you tell me how the placement is wrong
I need to do just this... where can I buy those larger J Lag Screws with reverse threads?
El Rico arborist supply sites. Like Tree Stuff Dot com
you ever try using preforms? that's what we use when putting in guy wires for powerlines we use the same cable. might be alot easier than hand tieing
Yes I have used them many times. This is more about "old School"--
Wonder, why not tuck the ends down and wrap the next course over them? Then only the seventh course would have an exposed end. Seems tidier.
There is tidy and there is getting the job done. You really can be too neat when you are in business trying to pay the bills
Cool trick with the wrap swaging. Bet some grizzled 60 year old showed you how to do that.
Good video. The placement height needs to be determined by the arborist on site. Also, steel is a good, reliable and inexpensive way to cable stout trees that don't sway too much, trees with good compartmentalization ability and trees with included bark.
Thanks Mark. lots of different ways to do the same job.
Wouldn't it be easier as good and as an easier to wrap a ratchet strap around both trunks and tied them together?? Thanks for the excellent tutorial.
Sam Sbogh you can use a strap to hold it or pull the limbs closer but anything that wraps around the limb, cuts into the bark as it grows.
The cable should be placed 2/3 the height above the split. I'm a certified arborist and I can tell you right now the higher you put the cable the better. It's not easy because it's farther apart but that will benefit the tree more.
Easy to say that without seeing the tree but I chose this location based on my understanding of the wood, the weight and the defect I'm trying to stabilize. I too am a Certified Arborist and this was my call.
Sometimes the smaller diameter wood up higher might not hold as well. It's only a lag. As he said, you have to see this tree.
I always tried to install at points that I called "the shoulders" of the sections. I really enjoyed cabling.
cabling a tree has its pros & cons. Would you agree with me ? cut down the tree! Great video ,I learned from you ,Thanks
tree care changed in the last 40 years, so did cableling
maybe take some time and update
maybe try light pruning, dynamic catch, little slack
good luck with it
Blair I'm not saying you did anything wrong. I'm just stating this incase someone was saying you cabled it wrong. Looks good to me where you cabled it
Thank you. Every tree decision is made based on what the Arborist believes is the best call.
exactly right, you were the one pounding that puppy...
Come to New Zealand Blair. You'll love it. You and yours can stay with Debra and me for a time as short or as long. Put your feet up, talk trees, talk stuff, go on an adventure maybe. You'll love it. www.gracebrook.co.nz
Blair. You need to read the ANSI A300 (Part 3)-2013
34.3.2 Anchor(s) should be installed at or near a point two-thirds (2/3) of the length/height of the branch or leader to be supported, measured from the junction to be supported.
The A300 is the industry standard that all profesional arborist adhere to. This video should be pulled and replaced with one that shows the proper installation of a cable to industry standards.
The guy I Paid Wrapped Cable Around Two Branches ...Bare Cable . Years Ago Has Grown In To Tree !
Not Good I Feel Will It Hurt Tree Been 10 Yrs . Thank U /;-))
Not good
buymeacoffee.com/blairglenn
wouldn't best practice be to cut down the tree if its a danger to the owner and the public ?... I mean I realize no one wants to cut down a tree, but sticking these tie in is just postponing the job for someone down the road...
I'm no expert, just watched a slew of tree video's and if someone with your experience told me to chop it down, it'd been down yesterday..
If a cable is used to help make a weakness stronger, then it is a good thing. If the tree is ready to fail, then I advise accordingly. I have cabled trees before that should have been removed but get it in writing that the cables will not save the tree. They might help prevent a limb Fromm hitting a structure. So, cables are good and cables can be used wrong.
Old school
It would be nice to see what you are doing and not just your shoulder.
I do the best I can by myself. Hardly ever get a camera person
Don't be critical. He did very well, and we should appreciate the efforts.
Boy, you sure are "taking the time to smell the roses " when you notice the strands on the cable job in your tree go in the same or alternate directions. I would do them the same but I bet more cable wrap jobs get hit by lightning then noticed by non tree people. Just saying
People not noticing your cabling is a sign of success. If wrapping the cable in the same direction gives the cable a more uniform beautiful look then all the merrier. Cables are ugly things and they can't spare anything that makes them look even marginally better. Besides, I'm pretty sure the birds are closely inspecting the work and judging.
some ideas might better be lost
like using static steel cable in trees
on splicing steel cable i agree, but not in trees
Camera needs to be pulled back. Too much footage too low or too high for camera.