Thank you very much. I've heard so many explanations of gain and boost but never really understood until this vid. Trailering anxiety has dropped 4 points 😂
Thank you for concise explanation. Been towing trailers for years but never with electric/brake. Just got a 3.3klb popup trailer behind a 1/2ton. Understanding how to adjust that factory break controller was intimidating. Thank you.
Many of us trailer to locations at which we leave the hard-surface roadways, so be advised an appropriate decrease in gain will be necessary to avoid skidding the trailer tires on gravel, dirt, etc.
Clearly I’m not getting this. Shouldn’t the gain stay the same in relation to the truck brakes? In truck only situation, if I’m on pavement I can brake a little harder, on gravel I have to back off to avoid skidding. Shouldn’t the trailer behave the same way, same ratio? Wouldn’t what you are suggesting have the truck getting pushed more on a gravel road?
@@markoshun I think I see your point, in that on gravel one wouldn't brake the tow vehicle as hard, so less gain should be applied to the trailer brakes, too. My real world experience, though, is that if I don't back the gain down a bit after leaving a hard surface, there is a tendency for the trailer brakes to lock up prematurely. Perhaps that is explained by the tow vehicle can be braked more heavily without locking up the wheels than the trailer.
@@comlbbeau Okay, that makes sense. The gain ratio probably isn't ever 1 to 1 matching the tow vehicle as you leave the sweet spot on pavement. I'm actually going to be towing on a gravel road soon, I'll do a bit of testing. I've not towed on snow/ice, but the discrepancy would likely be even more pronounced. Good to keep in mind, thanks.
Just had the Curt 51126 brake controller installed on my RAM 1500. Plan to haul horse trailer and 1 or 2 horses , total weight approx. 5000-6000 lbs. On 3 three previous towing vehicles my controller had a sliding control. This one has digital for Gain and Load, nothing in the manual about Boost. Please recommend settings to start with. (precious cargo).
1) Yes. 2) No. The manual brake switch can be used to reign in moderate trailer sway but instead of hitting the throttle, most folks agree that you should take your foot completely off the gas and avoid using the brakes if possible. Hope that helps you!
You guys do great videos, just got a bunch of products from you and your customer service was wonderful! The background music could be reduced about 50% at least.
To set gain, I took my truck to an open parking lot. I put it in drive did not step on the gas, then increased gain until both stopped. Then backed off the gain.
The ideal boost setting will depend on the loaded weight of the trailer compared to the weight of the tow vehicle. If the trailer weight is less than that of the vehicle, the boost should be off or at level 1. If the trailer weighs about the same as the tow vehicle, set the boost at 1 or 2. If the trailer weighs more than 25% more than the vehicle weight, set the boost to level 2 or 3. Hope that helps!
I'm getting ready to have one installed and was wondering, when dialing it in, should the trailer be loaded or not? I had a controller on my trailer in the early 2000's and for some reason remember being told it was better to dial it in w/ an empty trailer. I would think it's better to do it loaded since that's how it's going to be used... any thoughts?
Which controller were you gonna go with? Some have a boost feature or the ability to program a pre-set that would allow you to toggle between settings...knowing what you plan on going with will help getting things dialed in the way you want.
while holding truck brake the manual brake on reese brake controller was activated and now has error code, I unplugged controller and plugged it back in and shows P.L. (Power loss) and E.R flashes. No trailer was ever connected during this time. Any idea how to correct this? The controller is a Reese 8508220 TowPower Brake EVN proportional controller, in 2005 F-150 5.4 3v.
I know this video is two years old, but found it after I purchased the brake controller and realized it falls off easily. To be clear, are you using the medium or the large cable cuff Pro?
I do have a Ford F-250 2017 Super Duty with a RV fifth wheel of 16 000 pound, I set my controler to heavy and the gain at 8, what do you think ? with that weight do you think it is normal the way I set my controler ? Or you think I need to ajust closer the shoes in the drum ? I try to find a range of setting for my truck and my 16 000 pound trailer. Thanks for your help.
There's so many variables involved, it would be nearly impossible for us to provide a specific setting for your controller, sight unseen. However, it's pretty easy to figure this out. First, adjust all the trailer brakes as described in this video (fast forward to the 11:45 minute mark): www.etrailer.com/tv-install-etrailer-electric-trailer-brake-kit-2017-grand-design-reflection-travel-trailer-akebrk-7-sa.aspx Then, do a few test runs with the 5th wheel through a large empty parking lot. Start off with the brake controller set at '5' or half power. You'll want to set the power so the trailer creates a slight drag on the vehicle when braking, but not so high that the brakes lock up. Hope that helps!
Should the trailer brakes be able to stop both the trailer and tow vehicle without the help of the tow vehicle’s brakes? I have my gain at 7. When testing just the trailer brake it slows the vehicle down but not nearly as fast as the tow vehicles brakes would slow it down.
The trailer brakes aren't designed to stop both the trailer and the tow vehicle. They're designed to work in conjunction with the tow vehicle's brakes to bring the trailer and vehicle to a safe stop.
Once the trailer is disconnected, the brake controller will read 'NC' for 'no connection' the controller won't do anything without a trailer plugged in. You won't need to make any adjustments like zeroing the controller.
That would really depend on how much cargo you're packing in there. A good brake controller like the Tekonsha P3 # 90195 would allow you to program the controller for up to 5 different trailers, so you could set up a separate profile for a full and an empty trailer. You'd be able to toggle back and forth, which would be really convenient! www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brake-Controller/Tekonsha/90195.html
I let my truck with trailer roll on a flat grade in idle and set my gain till the truck is almost stopped by the trailer brakes. ( this seems to work for me)
There are many different ways to set up a brake controller. We recommend following the manufacturer's instructions, but if you've found a different method that works for you, more power to ya!
Tested trailer plug on Yukon. Is this normal? I was connected to a known good trailer rig. I noticed when I turned my Yukon lights on, the RV brakes were getting some power...I could hear them whining, even in Park. I was parked in Park and Parking Brake on. It does the same thing in Drive, Reverse and Neutral. It will read 3.9V to 4.1V on the brake blade even though nothing is calling for brake power. If I step on the Yukon brake firmly, it goes up to 13.xV as it should. All other pins behave normally when they should. There is always about 30 to 50mV on the brake power blade, even with the Yukon lights fully Off and the adjustment knob on the controller all the way to minimum. When I turn on the Yukon Parking or Headlamp switch, AND the manual controller button for brake power is squeezed, and the variable output knob is turned from 0 to Max, the Voltage will climb with these switches being moved and max out at 3.9 to 4.1V. It does this in Park, Reverse, Neutral and Drive...exact same behavior. So I can get the power to almost stop on the brakes while driving it with the lights on, but not entirely as it always has 30 to 50 mili-volts on that blade. But then I have to manually squeeze the controller's brake button to get brakes to engage. What the hell is going on, bad Brake Controller or bad wiring job? I've never noticed brakes whining if sitting in Park unless the brake pedal was being pressed with my other vehicles. You ever experience this? Thanks!
Thanks! Can you tell me which wiring harness you're using to connect the brake controller to the junction block under the dash? For a 2005 Yukon, it's supposed to be the # 3015-P. Up to the 2003 MY, it would've been the # 3025-P. Both use the same plug, but they're pinned out differently. If you were unintentionally using the wrong harness, it would explain the problem you're experiencing, so please check that. www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Tekonsha/3015-P.html www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Tekonsha/3025-P.html
@etrailer I just looked. I guess it is the wrong harness as the number is 3025! There are only 4 wires on it, it's hard to believe all else would work properly but the brake voltage, and how it's connected to the Yukon light switch...that is weird! I have plenty of wire length, can I simply cut two wires on the harness and swap them for the correct results? I don't use this for towing much, but when I do I want it to work right. I am efficient at cutting and splicing wires. Thank you so much!
Cutting and splicing won't work, you'll need to un pin one wire and install it into a different cavity of the plug. If you unplug the harness, look at the brown connector. On the side where the wires enter the connector, you'll want to remove where the red wire is pinned and install it in the cavity below the blue wire. If you look at the thumbnail photos of the two parts, you can see how they're pinned differently. Just push a small flathead screwdriver into the connector next to the metal socket surrounding the wire and give a push, this will release the wire so it can be swapped. Hope that helps!
Does it make a difference is the trailer empty or load, when my trailer is empty my trailer tires lock up slowing down to stop and they are fine when it have a load
Generally speaking, the more weight in the trailer the higher the gain on the controller needs to be. Some brake controllers have boost levels or presets that allow you to toggle back and forth for heavier/lighter trailers.
I have come across that I just my brakes just like I want. Then for some reason I need to readjust. After a while if driving. I under the impression once set to your liking should not need to be adjusted. ?
If the weight of the trailer is consistent, you wouldn't need to adjust the gain on the controller very much. Wet or slick conditions would also be a situation where you might need to adjust the output/gain. Hope that helps!
just got a 20 foot toy hauler and the brakes are horrible.i have a blue tooth curt set at 50 power and then 5 sensitivity i have a 24'enlcosed and a 24' car hauler as well and the curt works great.both those trailers unloaded are like 4500 and 5500 and they brake fine.this new hauler with is only 7000 lbs loaded is horrible.i barely step on the brake and the whole truck jumps.i heard the trailer tires even screechin like they were burning out/burning rubber.then i heard the brakes screeching.but supposedly they just redid the brakes
Not necessarily. You would typically increase the gain or boost (if your controller is equipped with that feature) as the weight of the trailer's cargo increases. Hope that helps!
Not sure we understand your question.... If your trailer doesn't have brakes, then you won't need a brake controller.....If we're missing something, let us know!
If you click the link below and check out page 5 of the instructions, you can see the procedure for setting the boost and an explanation of how it works: www.etrailer.com/instructions.aspx?pn=90195 We'll have our video folks include an explanation.
![NLE Choppa - Or What ft. 41 (Orchestra Mix) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/biOFASEgSOM/mqdefault.jpg)
Easy to understand and straight to the point. Thank you!
You're welcome, we're glad you found it helpful!
Fish tailed a trailer on the highway today realized I lacked the knowledge properly setting my brakes thanks for the video
We're glad the video was helpful!
Was it a boat trailer because then that would be a positive thing. Gotta catch fish😂
Best explanation I've come across. Thanks.
You're welcome! We're glad you liked the video....
Thank you very much. I've heard so many explanations of gain and boost but never really understood until this vid. Trailering anxiety has dropped 4 points 😂
Awesome, we don't want you to be anxious about it! We're glad we could help, and please let us know how it works for you!
By far the best video on brake controllers on RUclips. Thanks for posting
Wow, thank you! We're glad that the video was helpful!
very, very good job breaking down everything straight to the meat and potatoes.
Great video! Easy to understand and to the point. Was able to get our flatbed cargo trailer all dialed in. Thanks for posting!
You're very welcome, we're happy to hear that the video helped you!
First time break assist user. First, great job with this video! Straight to the point and easy to understand. Thank you!
Thank you for concise explanation. Been towing trailers for years but never with electric/brake. Just got a 3.3klb popup trailer behind a 1/2ton. Understanding how to adjust that factory break controller was intimidating. Thank you.
We're super-glad it was helpful, thank you! What are you planning on towing?
This was simple and straightforward. Thank you!
You're welcome, glad you liked it!
This is an excellent video for understanding this. Much appreciated. 👍😊
Thank you, we're glad you liked it!
Many of us trailer to locations at which we leave the hard-surface roadways, so be advised an appropriate decrease in gain will be necessary to avoid skidding the trailer tires on gravel, dirt, etc.
Well said, thank you!
Clearly I’m not getting this. Shouldn’t the gain stay the same in relation to the truck brakes?
In truck only situation, if I’m on pavement I can brake a little harder, on gravel I have to back off to avoid skidding. Shouldn’t the trailer behave the same way, same ratio?
Wouldn’t what you are suggesting have the truck getting pushed more on a gravel road?
@@markoshun I think I see your point, in that on gravel one wouldn't brake the tow vehicle as hard, so less gain should be applied to the trailer brakes, too. My real world experience, though, is that if I don't back the gain down a bit after leaving a hard surface, there is a tendency for the trailer brakes to lock up prematurely. Perhaps that is explained by the tow vehicle can be braked more heavily without locking up the wheels than the trailer.
@@comlbbeau Okay, that makes sense. The gain ratio probably isn't ever 1 to 1 matching the tow vehicle as you leave the sweet spot on pavement.
I'm actually going to be towing on a gravel road soon, I'll do a bit of testing.
I've not towed on snow/ice, but the discrepancy would likely be even more pronounced. Good to keep in mind, thanks.
Thank you! I had my mechanic install an electric brake system to pull my small fifth wheeler! Tomorrow I'm actually going to try to use it!
Niiiice! Please let us know how it works out!
The information I needed in a way I can understand. Thank you sir.
You're welcome, we're glad it was helpful!
Then you for this video. Just what i needed to feel that much more safe pulling my trailer
Awesome, we're glad to hear that the video helped you out!!
@@etrailer i wasn't born on a farm, and as kids, everything we did was done in luxury. RUclips gives me all the skills i didn't learn growing up. 👊
Just had the Curt 51126 brake controller installed on my RAM 1500. Plan to haul horse trailer and 1 or 2 horses , total weight approx. 5000-6000 lbs. On 3 three previous towing vehicles my controller had a sliding control. This one has digital for Gain and Load, nothing in the manual about Boost. Please recommend settings to start with. (precious cargo).
The manual override can also be used to stop trailer sway. Turn the boost lever and step on the GAS. Correct me if I'm wrong
1) Yes. 2) No. The manual brake switch can be used to reign in moderate trailer sway but instead of hitting the throttle, most folks agree that you should take your foot completely off the gas and avoid using the brakes if possible. Hope that helps you!
You guys do great videos, just got a bunch of products from you and your customer service was wonderful! The background music could be reduced about 50% at least.
Great explanation of brake controller setup without making it confusing. Thank You
You're very welcome, we're glad you found the video helpful!!
To set gain, I took my truck to an open parking lot. I put it in drive did not step on the gas, then increased gain until both stopped. Then backed off the gain.
That sounds like a great idea, thanks for passing it along!
Great video. What would you recommend setting the boost to if towing a 14 foot dump trailer with a half ton F150?
The ideal boost setting will depend on the loaded weight of the trailer compared to the weight of the tow vehicle. If the trailer weight is less than that of the vehicle, the boost should be off or at level 1. If the trailer weighs about the same as the tow vehicle, set the boost at 1 or 2. If the trailer weighs more than 25% more than the vehicle weight, set the boost to level 2 or 3. Hope that helps!
I'm getting ready to have one installed and was wondering, when dialing it in, should the trailer be loaded or not? I had a controller on my trailer in the early 2000's and for some reason remember being told it was better to dial it in w/ an empty trailer. I would think it's better to do it loaded since that's how it's going to be used... any thoughts?
Which controller were you gonna go with? Some have a boost feature or the ability to program a pre-set that would allow you to toggle between settings...knowing what you plan on going with will help getting things dialed in the way you want.
thanks man exactly what I needed
You're welcome, glad it helped!
THanks! Love your website!
That's awesome! There are literally dozens upon dozens of folks who work very hard on that, we're glad you found it helpful...
Thank you so much. Great video
You are very welcome, we're glad you liked it!
while holding truck brake the manual brake on reese brake controller was activated and now has error code, I unplugged controller and plugged it back in and shows P.L. (Power loss) and E.R flashes. No trailer was ever connected during this time. Any idea how to correct this? The controller is a Reese 8508220 TowPower Brake EVN proportional controller, in 2005 F-150 5.4 3v.
Finally a good tutorial 👍
Thank you! We're happy we could help!
I know this video is two years old, but found it after I purchased the brake controller and realized it falls off easily. To be clear, are you using the medium or the large cable cuff Pro?
Which brake controller are you using?
@@etrailer Curtis Echo
Excellent info Brudda.
I do have a Ford F-250 2017 Super Duty with a RV fifth wheel of 16 000 pound, I set my controler to heavy and the gain at 8, what do you think ? with that weight do you think it is normal the way I set my controler ? Or you think I need to ajust closer the shoes in the drum ? I try to find a range of setting for my truck and my 16 000 pound trailer. Thanks for your help.
There's so many variables involved, it would be nearly impossible for us to provide a specific setting for your controller, sight unseen. However, it's pretty easy to figure this out. First, adjust all the trailer brakes as described in this video (fast forward to the 11:45 minute mark):
www.etrailer.com/tv-install-etrailer-electric-trailer-brake-kit-2017-grand-design-reflection-travel-trailer-akebrk-7-sa.aspx
Then, do a few test runs with the 5th wheel through a large empty parking lot. Start off with the brake controller set at '5' or half power. You'll want to set the power so the trailer creates a slight drag on the vehicle when braking, but not so high that the brakes lock up. Hope that helps!
Should the trailer brakes be able to stop both the trailer and tow vehicle without the help of the tow vehicle’s brakes? I have my gain at 7. When testing just the trailer brake it slows the vehicle down but not nearly as fast as the tow vehicles brakes would slow it down.
The trailer brakes aren't designed to stop both the trailer and the tow vehicle. They're designed to work in conjunction with the tow vehicle's brakes to bring the trailer and vehicle to a safe stop.
Should it always be ZERO when I'm not trailering or is not engaged when just driving?
Once the trailer is disconnected, the brake controller will read 'NC' for 'no connection' the controller won't do anything without a trailer plugged in. You won't need to make any adjustments like zeroing the controller.
I adjust my break controller dial to 5, but when I step on the break, it will only go up to 3. What's wrong?
Which brake controller are you using?
Once you have adjusted the gain for the trailer, does this process need to be repeated when the trailer has been loaded?
That would really depend on how much cargo you're packing in there. A good brake controller like the Tekonsha P3 # 90195 would allow you to program the controller for up to 5 different trailers, so you could set up a separate profile for a full and an empty trailer. You'd be able to toggle back and forth, which would be really convenient!
www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brake-Controller/Tekonsha/90195.html
I let my truck with trailer roll on a flat grade in idle and set my gain till the truck is almost stopped by the trailer brakes. ( this seems to work for me)
There are many different ways to set up a brake controller. We recommend following the manufacturer's instructions, but if you've found a different method that works for you, more power to ya!
Thank you it help i knew nothing
We're glad it helped!
Tested trailer plug on Yukon. Is this normal?
I was connected to a known good trailer rig.
I noticed when I turned my Yukon lights on, the RV brakes were getting some power...I could hear them whining, even in Park. I was parked in Park and Parking Brake on. It does the same thing in Drive, Reverse and Neutral. It will read 3.9V to 4.1V on the brake blade even though nothing is calling for brake power. If I step on the Yukon brake firmly, it goes up to 13.xV as it should.
All other pins behave normally when they should.
There is always about 30 to 50mV on the brake power blade, even with the Yukon lights fully Off and the adjustment knob on the controller all the way to minimum. When I turn on the Yukon Parking or Headlamp switch, AND the manual controller button for brake power is squeezed, and the variable output knob is turned from 0 to Max, the Voltage will climb with these switches being moved and max out at 3.9 to 4.1V. It does this in Park, Reverse, Neutral and Drive...exact same behavior.
So I can get the power to almost stop on the brakes while driving it with the lights on, but not entirely as it always has 30 to 50 mili-volts on that blade. But then I have to manually squeeze the controller's brake button to get brakes to engage.
What the hell is going on, bad Brake Controller or bad wiring job? I've never noticed brakes whining if sitting in Park unless the brake pedal was being pressed with my other vehicles.
You ever experience this?
Thanks!
Can you tell me what the model year of your Yukon is and what brake controller you're using, please?
@@etrailer it's a 2005 Yukon SLT 5.3L 4x4. Tekonsha (Cequent) Primus iQ.
This one from their website p/n 90160.
Thanks!
Thanks! Can you tell me which wiring harness you're using to connect the brake controller to the junction block under the dash? For a 2005 Yukon, it's supposed to be the # 3015-P. Up to the 2003 MY, it would've been the # 3025-P. Both use the same plug, but they're pinned out differently. If you were unintentionally using the wrong harness, it would explain the problem you're experiencing, so please check that.
www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Tekonsha/3015-P.html
www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Tekonsha/3025-P.html
@etrailer I just looked. I guess it is the wrong harness as the number is 3025!
There are only 4 wires on it, it's hard to believe all else would work properly but the brake voltage, and how it's connected to the Yukon light switch...that is weird!
I have plenty of wire length, can I simply cut two wires on the harness and swap them for the correct results? I don't use this for towing much, but when I do I want it to work right. I am efficient at cutting and splicing wires. Thank you so much!
Cutting and splicing won't work, you'll need to un pin one wire and install it into a different cavity of the plug. If you unplug the harness, look at the brown connector. On the side where the wires enter the connector, you'll want to remove where the red wire is pinned and install it in the cavity below the blue wire. If you look at the thumbnail photos of the two parts, you can see how they're pinned differently. Just push a small flathead screwdriver into the connector next to the metal socket surrounding the wire and give a push, this will release the wire so it can be swapped. Hope that helps!
Does it make a difference is the trailer empty or load, when my trailer is empty my trailer tires lock up slowing down to stop and they are fine when it have a load
Generally speaking, the more weight in the trailer the higher the gain on the controller needs to be. Some brake controllers have boost levels or presets that allow you to toggle back and forth for heavier/lighter trailers.
I have come across that I just my brakes just like I want. Then for some reason I need to readjust. After a while if driving. I under the impression once set to your liking should not need to be adjusted. ?
If the weight of the trailer is consistent, you wouldn't need to adjust the gain on the controller very much. Wet or slick conditions would also be a situation where you might need to adjust the output/gain. Hope that helps!
just got a 20 foot toy hauler and the brakes are horrible.i have a blue tooth curt set at 50 power and then 5 sensitivity i have a 24'enlcosed and a 24' car hauler as well and the curt works great.both those trailers unloaded are like 4500 and 5500 and they brake fine.this new hauler with is only 7000 lbs loaded is horrible.i barely step on the brake and the whole truck jumps.i heard the trailer tires even screechin like they were burning out/burning rubber.then i heard the brakes screeching.but supposedly they just redid the brakes
Should you use more gain for highway driving?
Not necessarily. You would typically increase the gain or boost (if your controller is equipped with that feature) as the weight of the trailer's cargo increases. Hope that helps!
Thanks, good explanation.
You're very welcome, glad it was helpful!
What would cause a jump & jerk when applying the brakes on a big 5th wheel.
Gain set too high
How can a trailer apply its brakes if it doesn't have any brakes?
Not sure we understand your question.... If your trailer doesn't have brakes, then you won't need a brake controller.....If we're missing something, let us know!
At high speeds, my brakes are set so that they function very smoothly, but at slower speeds, I feel the trailer jerking me on me.
Same
Is there a way to set that for a certain levels of speed?
Same. This is why I came here.
You’ll want to step down your sensitivity/boost. Your power sounds right, but you’re getting there too quickly.
Homie has that check engine light on.
Thank you .,Very good.
You're very welcome, glad you liked the video!
Where is boost on break box
The boost is a feature that isn't found on all brake controllers. Was there a specific controller you were interested in?
3:38 Nice HEYDUDE’s
Having your footwear on point IS important....
👍👍
Good
Thanks!
You showed how to set the gain, but not the
Boost.
If you click the link below and check out page 5 of the instructions, you can see the procedure for setting the boost and an explanation of how it works:
www.etrailer.com/instructions.aspx?pn=90195
We'll have our video folks include an explanation.
Take a shot everytime he says Brake Controller...
Oh no! I'm not falling for that one again!!
Why do Americans think it's okay to drive big trailers on the road ?
Why not?
This makes no sense
How so? What exactly do you need help with?