Your struggle helps me give props to the engineers that design cars and then have thousands of them manufactured and sold to the public with minimal issues.
Idk man sometimes the engineers do stuff that has me questioning their logic. We had a saying at one of my old machinist jobs and it was “Ask four different engineers how to do something. You will get six different answers and they’ll all be wrong.” 😂😂😂
Who on earth did you piss off in your previous life. Not only do happen to really love platforms that require the most amount of attention to avoid problems but even when you do everything right it more or less bites you on the ass. I'm rooting for you man
The trouble as what keep me feeling alive 😂 it’s all apart of the game, shouldn’t be more than a days worth of work to correct it. Just an annoying issue to have 😅
@@Smeedia My car has been living on jackstands for a while, I get it and every once in a while I have that nightmare of it knocking when I finally start it
It’s definitely a needle bearing falling off and getting crushed when you tightened the front pulley bolt. It’s recommended to build the front stack while the engine is vertical. Once the front 19mm front pulley bolt is torque you are free to move the engine around
I’m thinking the same thing, I had built it vertical. BUT I spun it horizontal to check endplay and did not reset the rear needle bearing behind the plate 😭 Easy fix but it is quite the annoying one to have to correct
@@Smeedia if you’re interested E&J auto works makes a front bearing support and gets rid of the spacer and needle bearing altogether. Also helps removing vertical load off the front stationary gear bearing when tightening your belts.
Pulling the motor will be fail safe, but you can definitely reseal the oil pan and do it in the car if need be. I used loctite 5900, had the engine supported via a chassis mounted hoist and removed the subframe for easier access. But honestly, thats only a little less work than pulling the block with a single turbo
Last time I tried doing the oak in car I could not get that thing to seal up and always had a leak 😅 thankfully pulling the engine is not too bad in these things. Just didn’t wanna have to do it again 😂
I feel for you, my guy. The video started off great. This FD build is awesome to see. The start up and sounds rotaries make is only best experienced in person. Still remember first time my cousins rx7 ride along felt and sounded. Goosebumps hit hard tho👍🏽
@@Smeedia I’ll be here with ya till the end. Hopefully you get it sorted and it can be a straight forward fix. My friend did a 2jz in a rx7 in Idaho it’s metal flake pearl blue. But that seamed to fix his problems. But also mad Mike seams to have good luck with rotors so it’s a pick your battle kind of war lol. I think the rotor will be awesome in the rx7 and probably worth way more on the re sale market. And now it’s pretty much the best and cleanest it can possibly be. Gonna have to start shaving door handles and stuff to make it any smoother, I believe you drew a good line betweeen race and show. And daily. I’m still waiting for the drifts to come lol
I feel the heartbreak! Stay strong Tan Man! How did u know the shaft wasn’t spinning properly? Were u able to feel it, noise, code? Another bump in the road! U got this!
Could see it after the engine had load applied to it. Guessing that the needles bearing was riding in the engine when we were bleeding everything then under load caused it to slip out and make the crank pulley start wobbling 😅 New parts already ordered to get it fixed 💪
Looks good despite the issues. When I installed my rebuilt Mezger in my 996 I found out the shop I hired set my cams incorrectly so I feel your pain, lots of labor.
Dude that 996 is kicking my add ☠️ swapped the coilpacks in that thing today and it runs WAY better but had a misfire on cyl 6 and a dead O2 sensor now
That usually happens when you over tighten the belt to get the water pump to grip and spin ... because you don't have the air pump anymore you now need to add an idler pulley (aftermarket) ... you can still run the FD that way .. I would just lower the rev limit to 8k and run till the wheels fall off.
Liking the video not because the rx7 is down again. But just love the content. Its like a new episode of my favorite tv show haha. Cant wait for more subaru stuff too tho so lets freaken gooo!
It does suck that you have to pull the motor, especially when you did everything right as far as you can tell. Good news is you caught it early. If you continue to have problems this next time I would just send the motor off to pineapple racing they are well known for doing everything right even back when I had my RX7 R1. Good luck bro she's looking good!
Pineapple shut down a month or two ago 🥲 Once things sorted we should be golden. Engine runs very well it’s just those needle bearings that got me 😅 all a learning experience and I can guarantee I won’t do that again lol
The main reason the stock rear end blows up is because there's alot of PLAY in the limited slip torsen gears. Grab the driveshaft and turn back and forward and you will feel the play. The way to protect the rear end under hard launches is to PRELOAD the gear in a forward direction and not backwards. When people are at the strip, they may overshot the line at staging. As they back up and then stop, they'll put it in 1st gear to launch. Well, the problem with this is the axle is loaded in reverse. It needs to be pre loaded in the forward direction. This way you dont slam the gears while trying to launch. That slamming is what shocks the rear end and cracks the casting. Now the wobbly pulley. That looks like the shaft is bent. You need to check the run out. Gotta put the e-shaft front and rear bearing lobes on some v-blocks and rotate to make sure it's not bent. Gotta be carefull sending your engine parts out without marking them. Somethimes these shops will swap your good parts with some junk the have laying around. That may not be the e-shaft you sent in to have balanced so you gotta mark them to make sure the parts you're sending are the same parts that come back.
I actually really appreciate you mentioning all of that, I feel like I can keep the diff alive a bit longer. I’ve felt the play in em before so very good to know 💪 Rotary shops do that?! I’ll pull the front cover and check the front stack. If nothing appears out of place we will tear the entire engine back down. I would hope that they wouldn’t do that but I guess we will find out 🥲
Man that is unfortunate that the engine is still giving you trouble even with all the work you put into it. Don't fret though life will have its ups and downs but this will only be temporary and you will get over it. Also I was kinda sad that you gave up on getting the original cluster to work bc imo it looked better for the OEM+ look and it just wouldn't be the same with a digital Haltech screen for everything. I get there's things the oem cluster could never do, but maybe try and somehow get it to work?
You can do the front stack in the car but if you stacked vertically it’s damn near impossible to mess up still possible I remember something in the factory procedure you have to have the clutch in or out depending on push or pull but I would investigate further eshafts are cheap if you used power seals and not Atkins you can reuse them
They’re atkins seals, going to order OEM Mazda for the front cover. Just ordered new needle bearings and what not for the front stack. Easy fix but definitely an annoying one 😅
I’ve tried DMing some of the bigger rotary guys and they never message back, I have an idea of what happened. When I checked endplay I pulled the front stack apart except for the rear neddle bearing behind the plate. I have a feeling it dropped 🥲 easy fix but an annoying one
If you do want to repair the stock gauge cluster, check out G-ROM Electronics. He converted my JDM STI cluster from kph to mph. I believe he does Mazda stuff as well.
@@Smeedia Side Note: awesome that you film what you did and go back over it in a future video… could save a lot of time. Even in the editing, I’s appreciates it.
Sucks you have to pull the 13b back out, like I believe you said in a recent past video. A lot of what you’ve done on this car is new to you. It happens, it sucks cause it’s expensive but it’s fixable. Also side note my idler above the tensioner broke the bolt off (the little one) somehow drove it 20 mins home as it was stuck in the timing cover. Thank god it didn’t jump time
Thankfully this isn’t too expensive to fix but more of an annoying issue, only way to learn is to keep doing it. Rotaries are still fairly new to me so still a ton to learn 💪
Thats super sucky!! You just really dont have luck with personal motors lately. I hope it all works out for you!!! Great video as always. You could always 12a swap it! Bit simpler of a rotary. And not too commonly used lol
With all the setbacks and that, your FD will end up being ready come Winter/Autumn. Sucks bad, I'd dislike the vid for the pain the 13B gives you but like it for the contents!
So you bent the eccentric shat from over tightening the belt to get enough tension on the water pump pulley,seen it a bunch.that'the reason pineapple Racing developed the idler pulley kit.
Jeez how much tension u talking hahaha. It will slowly wear a front stat gear bearing not bend an e shaft. The Torrington bearing won’t be aligned. Guess we will find out when he tears it down.
The cluster board's probably got some bad capacitors, possibly broken leads. It's way more of a flex to have a baller cluster than a digidash, but that's a flex in a different way as well. Do what you gotta do to make shit work. Never addressed my comment about the rear speakers from that video. Mazda didn't use 6x9 back then, they used either 5x7 or 6x8, which are interchangeable. Ford did the same thing back during the 90s. That's why your JBLs didn't fit with those aftermarket brackets in my opinion. Also never mentioned if the magnets were too deep or too wide, big difference there. Fun fact, Torrington Bearings were invented in Torrington, CT back in 1866. Back when this state still had a lot of manufacturing. Torrington's kind of a shithole now though...
They used 6x8 speakers, the kenwoods fit perfect back there though 🎉 the JBL most definitely did not 😅 they JBLs were too deep needed something a bit more shallow. The Ic7 will be nice for information compared to the oe cluster. But the oem cluster looks so good
@@Smeedia Kenwoods are generally not as beefy magnet wise with their typical offerings, Kenwood Excelon is a different story though. I do like Kenwood a fair bit, but they're not my first choice. If it's just the magnet depth getting in the way of fitting the JBLs, in most cases a spacer should remedy that. Certain situations won't pan out of course, I've seen many cases where we had to refund a customer's chosen speaker for a less premium one due to clearance issues with the car. But yeah, 6x8 is Mazda. I mentioned 5x7 because for all intents and purposes, they are the same exact speaker and both will be interchangeable, it depends on what brand you want and what that brand offers in size. The mounting frame/tabs whatever location on the speaker itself is the big difference. I've subbed the "wrong" size for the application between those two hundreds of times and it's fine. They usually come with a thin adapter ring/spacer to make it work out of the box. Ford also owned a big stake in Mazda at the time so yeah. Not trying to bust balls, but if you're trying to fit a premium 6x9 in there no wonder you had a bad time, I don't care if the aftermarket brackets were supposedly meant for it. That falls into the realm of "make it fit". Like I said, either cluster option is a flex, especially if you found something like an REamemiya cluster that you could get up and running... big money though. Having a digi is super nice for literally any information you could want without having to wire a Defi clusterfuck somewhere or in your case, a lack of decent gauge pod for a single CAN gauge.
OK, so upon the next "re-assembly" during the torque process... have a friend slowly rotate the engine with a breaker bar after the first torque stage and continue thru the rest, and try to do it vertically instead of horizontally. Just some tips for rebuilds on rotary to make sure they don't settle out of alignment.
Vertically is the only way I’ve done it, I’ll try the rotating on the engine. It’s just odd, out of the 3 times I’ve built this thing I’ve never had that happen until now 🧐
OH MY GOD the rear neddle bearing had to have dropped when I rotated it forward to check endplay. I never took the plate off to reset it after checking endplay
@@weebingdanperformance4594my money is on one of the bearings in the front stack. Guessing the rear needle bearing. Everything I’ve been reading leads to the front stack. We found a TSB from Mazda covering it as well. Pulled some oil and thankfully no metal in it. So guessing this just happened as soon as we put load on the engine
@@Smeediathat’s cause u previously used it as a work bench right :p go easy chap haha. Not quite as bad as when u smashed dents all over the floor removing that sound deadening :p Prob most cringy part of the build 🫣🫣 Admire all the effort, teaching ya self how to do stuff and can do attitude though.. Take it all as learnings. Looking forward to the dyno runs
But, don’t know too much about Doritos, could have literally have the exact same issue after you “fix” it? It seems all of those issues were just addressed. 🤷🏼♂️
Tanner: "This should be the last major FD video"
13B: "Hold my beer"
lol I jinxed myself again 😂
@@Smeedia Blu just sitting there like "How do you keep forgetting this?" 😂
Persevere, Tanner. We are all here to watch both the ups and the downs. Your positive is part of why we watch. God bless 💫
We will get her sorted and off to the dyno soon enough 💪
Your struggle helps me give props to the engineers that design cars and then have thousands of them manufactured and sold to the public with minimal issues.
I would hope they’ve got a solid process in place of they’re mass
Producing them 😅
Idk man sometimes the engineers do stuff that has me questioning their logic. We had a saying at one of my old machinist jobs and it was “Ask four different engineers how to do something. You will get six different answers and they’ll all be wrong.” 😂😂😂
Who on earth did you piss off in your previous life. Not only do happen to really love platforms that require the most amount of attention to avoid problems but even when you do everything right it more or less bites you on the ass. I'm rooting for you man
The trouble as what keep me feeling alive 😂 it’s all apart of the game, shouldn’t be more than a days worth of work to correct it. Just an annoying issue to have 😅
@@Smeedia My car has been living on jackstands for a while, I get it and every once in a while I have that nightmare of it knocking when I finally start it
It’s because he jinxed it last video 😢
That blows. I’m proud of you for trying to staying positive. 🤙
New parts ordered to get her sorted 💪 ain’t nothing stopping us 🙌
It’s definitely a needle bearing falling off and getting crushed when you tightened the front pulley bolt. It’s recommended to build the front stack while the engine is vertical. Once the front 19mm front pulley bolt is torque you are free to move the engine around
I’m thinking the same thing, I had built it vertical. BUT
I spun it horizontal to check endplay and did not reset the rear needle bearing behind the plate 😭
Easy fix but it is quite the annoying one to have to correct
@@Smeedia if you’re interested E&J auto works makes a front bearing support and gets rid of the spacer and needle bearing altogether. Also helps removing vertical load off the front stationary gear bearing when tightening your belts.
@@marcus032390ordering this tonight then, if I’m going back in there might as well improve things more 😅
Hang in there man. It will be worth it when it’s finished.
I’m holding out 🎉
New shims, needle bearings etc ordered up 💪
“Fuck” commercial break. Great timing.
Lmao 😂
went to my shop, they all knew your logo on my shirt. if it helps, you're an awesome dude in the community!! love the work you do T!!
Eyyy appreciate the support Jason! 🎉
dude, your a bad ass. Don't let it get you down. All this information you freely give to us is priceless! Keep up the great work man!
All replacement parts ordered. Once they all come in we will get this thing corrected 💪
Despite all the ups and down it'd be worth it at the end, keep your head up my friend 🙏
New parts ordered to get her sorted 💪
Pulling the motor will be fail safe, but you can definitely reseal the oil pan and do it in the car if need be. I used loctite 5900, had the engine supported via a chassis mounted hoist and removed the subframe for easier access. But honestly, thats only a little less work than pulling the block with a single turbo
Last time I tried doing the oak in car I could not get that thing to seal up and always had a leak 😅 thankfully pulling the engine is not too bad in these things. Just didn’t wanna have to do it again 😂
2:25 Tanner goes with the "shake weight" maneuver 😆
I just stripped my Rear Diff drain bolt, nothing compared to your problem. Thanks for the videos and the struggels.
Offff that’s still such a PIA problem to have 😭
Dang man! I felt your pain homie. It will get all figured out eventually man.
We like!! Keep strong different engines brings problems hence why everyone sticks with the norm. Dare to be different 🤙🏻
I live for the problem children for the engine world 😈
underside looks sooooooo gooooooood, obviously the whole car does :P
Eat off the bottom of that thing 😂😅
Bro that sucks! Hang in there. Excited to see what is to come
Learning lesson 😅 but on the. Right side it’s an easy fix and we caught it early
I know you’re trying to stay positive through all the BS. I applaud you. I may have torched the engine out of anger and regretted it after.
we try not to let the intrusive thoughts win lol
I feel for you, my guy. The video started off great. This FD build is awesome to see. The start up and sounds rotaries make is only best experienced in person. Still remember first time my cousins rx7 ride along felt and sounded.
Goosebumps hit hard tho👍🏽
Definitely an anointing issue to have but nothing that can’t be corrected. New parts ordered to get it 100% 💪
Set backs can enable great leaps forward…
Your spot on my man 💪
Sending prayers to you man, I want to see the rx-7 finished as badly as you do and I hope this is the last issue with the rotory🫶
New parts ordered to get it fixed 💪 it’ll be worth it in the end 🙌
Don’t you ever give up. There is hope. I promise.
We not giving up 💪
@@Smeedia I’ll be here with ya till the end. Hopefully you get it sorted and it can be a straight forward fix. My friend did a 2jz in a rx7 in Idaho it’s metal flake pearl blue. But that seamed to fix his problems. But also mad Mike seams to have good luck with rotors so it’s a pick your battle kind of war lol. I think the rotor will be awesome in the rx7 and probably worth way more on the re sale market. And now it’s pretty much the best and cleanest it can possibly be. Gonna have to start shaving door handles and stuff to make it any smoother, I believe you drew a good line betweeen race and show. And daily. I’m still waiting for the drifts to come lol
I feel the heartbreak!
Stay strong Tan Man!
How did u know the shaft wasn’t spinning properly? Were u able to feel it, noise, code?
Another bump in the road! U got this!
You can see it in the video. I know next to NUFFINK but even I thought "Eh...that don't look right..."
Could see it when it was under throttle in the video but not idle…
Just wondering how he knew to check.
@@thesavage4552 Probably when he played the footage.
Could see it after the engine had load applied to it. Guessing that the needles bearing was riding in the engine when we were bleeding everything then under load caused it to slip out and make the crank pulley start wobbling 😅
New parts already ordered to get it fixed 💪
🙏 hope everything works out for you in the end
It’ll work out, just a pain in the butt to fix 😅
Looks good despite the issues. When I installed my rebuilt Mezger in my 996 I found out the shop I hired set my cams incorrectly so I feel your pain, lots of labor.
Dude that 996 is kicking my add ☠️ swapped the coilpacks in that thing today and it runs WAY better but had a misfire on cyl 6 and a dead O2 sensor now
Good spot. I would have just sent it and found out the hard way 😂 you can never check a new built engine enough !
Lmao I probably would have if we didn’t see it 😂
That usually happens when you over tighten the belt to get the water pump to grip and spin ... because you don't have the air pump anymore you now need to add an idler pulley (aftermarket) ... you can still run the FD that way .. I would just lower the rev limit to 8k and run till the wheels fall off.
I approve going for a swap.... but only for a 3 rotor. Time to triple down!!
If cosmo engine weren’t so got dam exspensive I’d be all over it 😢😂
Nightmare, thought that stack area looked rather complex. Fingers crossed you can get it working or let someone look at it that knows the issue.
Ordered a billet front stat gear bearing to replace the needle bearings. If we going back in there we are going to improve it even more 🎉
@@Smeedia Keep up the great work, hope that solves the issue.
I understand your Tacoma is slow. I think you have an engine laying around that might fit. Come on JZ Tacoma.
I was thinking the same thing the past couple days 😂
Liking the video not because the rx7 is down again. But just love the content. Its like a new episode of my favorite tv show haha. Cant wait for more subaru stuff too tho so lets freaken gooo!
Definitely an shooting issue to have to fix but new parts already ordered to get her back to 100% 💪
Broooooooooooooooo you can never catch a break
Opportunity for more learning 😂 it’s not too bad to fix just REALLY annoying to fix lol
Check out speed bleeders for all your brake bleeding problems and you can bleed brakes on your own any time just a tip 👍
I’ve always seen em but have been skeptical of them. 😅
@@Smeedia you will love them just remember to pull them out before you get rid of the car and not do what i did and sold my car with them in 😂
Yep you said it, the tacoma is the only thing running 🤘
The Tacoma is a G 😅
It does suck that you have to pull the motor, especially when you did everything right as far as you can tell. Good news is you caught it early. If you continue to have problems this next time I would just send the motor off to pineapple racing they are well known for doing everything right even back when I had my RX7 R1. Good luck bro she's looking good!
Pineapple shut down a month or two ago 🥲
Once things sorted we should be golden. Engine runs very well it’s just those needle bearings that got me 😅 all a learning experience and I can guarantee I won’t do that again lol
Like button hit. I SPEAK FOR THE PEOPLE WHEN I SAY WE WANT A JZ BUILD, no need for rear mounted EJ/EG. 🤔
Unless it can't be helped you should always warm your car to temp before turning it off. For example I always warm my 2020 STI to 180F.
Typically I always try to at minimum get the bat stat to open up
The main reason the stock rear end blows up is because there's alot of PLAY in the limited slip torsen gears. Grab the driveshaft and turn back and forward and you will feel the play.
The way to protect the rear end under hard launches is to PRELOAD the gear in a forward direction and not backwards. When people are at the strip, they may overshot the line at staging. As they back up and then stop, they'll put it in 1st gear to launch. Well, the problem with this is the axle is loaded in reverse. It needs to be pre loaded in the forward direction. This way you dont slam the gears while trying to launch. That slamming is what shocks the rear end and cracks the casting.
Now the wobbly pulley. That looks like the shaft is bent. You need to check the run out. Gotta put the e-shaft front and rear bearing lobes on some v-blocks and rotate to make sure it's not bent. Gotta be carefull sending your engine parts out without marking them. Somethimes these shops will swap your good parts with some junk the have laying around. That may not be the e-shaft you sent in to have balanced so you gotta mark them to make sure the parts you're sending are the same parts that come back.
I actually really appreciate you mentioning all of that, I feel like I can keep the diff alive a bit longer. I’ve felt the play in em before so very good to know 💪
Rotary shops do that?! I’ll pull the front cover and check the front stack. If nothing appears out of place we will tear the entire engine back down. I would hope that they wouldn’t do that but I guess we will find out 🥲
@Smeedia Well some of the employees can be shady and do stuff behind the shops back.
It will be the front stack
@MrSammy696969 What are you talking about?
@@rotaryperfection the needle roller bearing would have been jammed when he did the 19mm nut up.
Cant help but feeling defeated at times. Need a home for the 2JZ though. Maybe a BRZ?
Today we have sad Tanner 🚗💥💨🔥
Man that is unfortunate that the engine is still giving you trouble even with all the work you put into it. Don't fret though life will have its ups and downs but this will only be temporary and you will get over it.
Also I was kinda sad that you gave up on getting the original cluster to work bc imo it looked better for the OEM+ look and it just wouldn't be the same with a digital Haltech screen for everything. I get there's things the oem cluster could never do, but maybe try and somehow get it to work?
You can do the front stack in the car but if you stacked vertically it’s damn near impossible to mess up still possible I remember something in the factory procedure you have to have the clutch in or out depending on push or pull but I would investigate further eshafts are cheap if you used power seals and not Atkins you can reuse them
They’re atkins seals, going to order OEM Mazda for the front cover. Just ordered new needle bearings and what not for the front stack. Easy fix but definitely an annoying one 😅
@@Smeedia it is annoying for sure but not the worst thing that can happen on the upside no leaks now and somehow with e shaft wobble
Tanner is the middle Pully wobbing
A little 😂😅
Talk to the Vargas brothers at angel motorsports they do some nasty rotary engines made for burnouts
I’ve tried DMing some of the bigger rotary guys and they never message back, I have an idea of what happened. When I checked endplay I pulled the front stack apart except for the rear neddle bearing behind the plate. I have a feeling it dropped 🥲 easy fix but an annoying one
1:25 SHERBERT!!!!!
Sherbet is the GOAT of flavors
If you do want to repair the stock gauge cluster, check out G-ROM Electronics. He converted my JDM STI cluster from kph to mph. I believe he does Mazda stuff as well.
I’ll keep him in mind. I’ll prob have it repaired then set it aside for later 😅
Well… the good news is… by the time you get the engine out… that carbin fibber wing might be finished and I don’t hafta look at it without one…lol
Lmao true 😂
@@Smeedia
Side Note: awesome that you film what you did and go back over it in a future video… could save a lot of time. Even in the editing, I’s appreciates it.
Sucks you have to pull the 13b back out, like I believe you said in a recent past video. A lot of what you’ve done on this car is new to you. It happens, it sucks cause it’s expensive but it’s fixable. Also side note my idler above the tensioner broke the bolt off (the little one) somehow drove it 20 mins home as it was stuck in the timing cover. Thank god it didn’t jump time
Thankfully this isn’t too expensive to fix but more of an annoying issue, only way to learn is to keep doing it. Rotaries are still fairly new to me so still a ton to learn 💪
@@Smeedia exactly! Gotta stay learning something new everyday
Brakes more than likely because of the booster delete. Gotta stand on the pedal a bit more to achieve desired results.
Still feels like some air in the lines, the manual brakes definitely feel like manual brakes though 😂
Loving this build! Side note did Matius just retire from making new content?
I think so 😢 the dude works a ton now
@@Smeedia damn. I really wanted to see his channel grow and blossom 😭
That sucks bro, paying the cost to be the boss.
New parts ordered, we going to get this thing fixed 💪
Things will come your way tanner all in due time bud
Dang dude
On the bright side I’m glad we caught that now 😅
@@Smeedia absolutely! That’s a positive outlook to a bummer situation and 100% accurate.
We are here to like the video whether it's a happy woooo or a sad wooo
🫶🫶🫶
What about Blue? When's that Build gonna start again?
Blu waiting on some custom parts to come in. Have a 3.7L stroker kit coming for another EG33 going into it.
she looks prettier than it did when it came off the showroom floor 🔥
Things definitely come a long way 🙌
I'm sorry you gotta pull it
Shouldn’t be more than a days worth of work but definitely an annoying issue to have 😅
If you still have issues with the 13b, it’s time for an LS swap. The car isn’t a stock restoration anyway, may as well make it reliable and driveable.
15:15 not knowing anything about rotary, can it be a belt ot tensioner issue?
Unfortunately not, with no belts on it, it still wobbles. Ordered a billet stationary gear bearing to get it sorted 💪
I feel all your pain
So much pain today
@@Smeedia right
10:36 woah... Off center a bit?
Thats super sucky!! You just really dont have luck with personal motors lately. I hope it all works out for you!!! Great video as always. You could always 12a swap it! Bit simpler of a rotary. And not too commonly used lol
So....still thinking about that LS swap????
Heresy
Damn that sucks
Definitely an anointing issue to have 😂
With all the setbacks and that, your FD will end up being ready come Winter/Autumn.
Sucks bad, I'd dislike the vid for the pain the 13B gives you but like it for the contents!
The Tacoma’s are not comfy that was a bold face lie sir lol
It is comfy though 😭 she just a little slow lmao
Oh man! Sorry this didn't just work. But that's part of the "fun" right?... RIGHT?!!! HAHA! You'll get there and we'll be right there with you.
I ain’t stressing it too much 😅 new parts ordered. It just an shooting issue to have 😂
So you bent the eccentric shat from over tightening the belt to get enough tension on the water pump pulley,seen it a bunch.that'the reason pineapple Racing developed the idler pulley kit.
Jeez how much tension u talking hahaha. It will slowly wear a front stat gear bearing not bend an e shaft. The Torrington bearing won’t be aligned. Guess we will find out when he tears it down.
i iked the video so i pressed like for the video
Fugg it. Keep the 2J for when the 13B poops out and full send that shit 🤙
Somebody looks like the gym has pay off 😏
Been getting back into the groove of going again 😮💨
@@Smeedia I am jealous, but you not having 2 legged children helps, as far as I know about with the life of smeedia
2.5RS soon?
This week 👀
Oh shit let's fuckin go!!!! Get a break from the rx7 and go back to something your much more familiar with. 🎉@@Smeedia
That exhaust is stupid loud
I love it 😂😅
Love the engine bay colour scheme. Might have to steal it for my evo. What is that bronze colour?
It’s highland bronze with Casper clear coat over it 💪 absolutely love this bronze color!
@@Smeediait looks killer! Subtle but out there at the same time. Super clean. Cheers mate.
😎👍🏻👍🏻
Sooooo I ordered another banner🤣🤣 hopefully I won’t F it up this time, 😥
Got it sitting on my desk for ya 🥳
@@Smeedia yeaaahhhhh buddy
rotarys doing rotarys stuff 🙃
This was user error 😅 I don’t place blame on the engine lol
The cluster board's probably got some bad capacitors, possibly broken leads. It's way more of a flex to have a baller cluster than a digidash, but that's a flex in a different way as well. Do what you gotta do to make shit work.
Never addressed my comment about the rear speakers from that video. Mazda didn't use 6x9 back then, they used either 5x7 or 6x8, which are interchangeable. Ford did the same thing back during the 90s. That's why your JBLs didn't fit with those aftermarket brackets in my opinion. Also never mentioned if the magnets were too deep or too wide, big difference there.
Fun fact, Torrington Bearings were invented in Torrington, CT back in 1866. Back when this state still had a lot of manufacturing. Torrington's kind of a shithole now though...
They used 6x8 speakers, the kenwoods fit perfect back there though 🎉 the JBL most definitely did not 😅 they JBLs were too deep needed something a bit more shallow.
The Ic7 will be nice for information compared to the oe cluster. But the oem cluster looks so good
@@Smeedia Kenwoods are generally not as beefy magnet wise with their typical offerings, Kenwood Excelon is a different story though. I do like Kenwood a fair bit, but they're not my first choice. If it's just the magnet depth getting in the way of fitting the JBLs, in most cases a spacer should remedy that. Certain situations won't pan out of course, I've seen many cases where we had to refund a customer's chosen speaker for a less premium one due to clearance issues with the car.
But yeah, 6x8 is Mazda. I mentioned 5x7 because for all intents and purposes, they are the same exact speaker and both will be interchangeable, it depends on what brand you want and what that brand offers in size. The mounting frame/tabs whatever location on the speaker itself is the big difference. I've subbed the "wrong" size for the application between those two hundreds of times and it's fine. They usually come with a thin adapter ring/spacer to make it work out of the box.
Ford also owned a big stake in Mazda at the time so yeah.
Not trying to bust balls, but if you're trying to fit a premium 6x9 in there no wonder you had a bad time, I don't care if the aftermarket brackets were supposedly meant for it. That falls into the realm of "make it fit".
Like I said, either cluster option is a flex, especially if you found something like an REamemiya cluster that you could get up and running... big money though. Having a digi is super nice for literally any information you could want without having to wire a Defi clusterfuck somewhere or in your case, a lack of decent gauge pod for a single CAN gauge.
8:28 please tell me that mustang is your next project.
EG33 vibes again?
Not nearly as bad yet 😅
Yes Please!
After all that time you spend painting you definitely don’t want no brake fluid on it. 😂😂
Not a single drop 😂 that stuff will eat the plant so quick 😅
OK, so upon the next "re-assembly" during the torque process... have a friend slowly rotate the engine with a breaker bar after the first torque stage and continue thru the rest, and try to do it vertically instead of horizontally. Just some tips for rebuilds on rotary to make sure they don't settle out of alignment.
Vertically is the only way I’ve done it, I’ll try the rotating on the engine. It’s just odd, out of the 3 times I’ve built this thing I’ve never had that happen until now 🧐
OH MY GOD the rear neddle bearing had to have dropped when I rotated it forward to check endplay. I never took the plate off to reset it after checking endplay
@@Smeedia 💡 I believe you just figured it out. 🔥
I rather be the Torrington bearing then the rotor faces hitting the iron plate
@@weebingdanperformance4594my money is on one of the bearings in the front stack. Guessing the rear needle bearing. Everything I’ve been reading leads to the front stack. We found a TSB from Mazda covering it as well. Pulled some oil and thankfully no metal in it. So guessing this just happened as soon as we put load on the engine
Didn’t like the video… but we like you 😢
This one hurt to watch
rip
She still alive and healthy 😭 just a little wonky lol
That dude in the background is going bald. Hi buddy. Lol
Ima get him a wig
@@Smeedia make sure it's a long blonde one.
Looking forward to seeing the new 2JZ in the RX7.
Start video comment. Ford escapes from 03-12 is lsd and irs
I say 2j it man!!
Dude - your poor cooler core shouldnt be a work bench 😮
In times of crisis we use what we got 😅 I already have to straighten the fins on it so I’m not too worried about it
@@Smeediathat’s cause u previously used it as a work bench right :p go easy chap haha.
Not quite as bad as when u smashed dents all over the floor removing that sound deadening :p
Prob most cringy part of the build 🫣🫣
Admire all the effort, teaching ya self how to do stuff and can do attitude though..
Take it all as learnings. Looking forward to the dyno runs
Toss that 13b straight to hell n put that 2jz on that rx7.
Saw the tittle and I am mad now.
Such an annoying issue 😂
Should have kept a Subaru
Damn second 😂🎉😢
Beat the bots 😂
Y u using the intercooler for a tool table not professional kool 🤔
It is a table though 👀
Your weed eater, errrr 13B sounds good.
LS swap the world!
lol pretty stoaked with how it sounds, not so stoaked about the pulley 😂
Rx-7 subaru 2.0 swap
Positive attitude, sorry
Ahhhhhh first
Mans faster than the bots 😂😅
Just happened to have my phone open for the notification lol 😅
But, don’t know too much about Doritos, could have literally have the exact same issue after you “fix” it? It seems all of those issues were just addressed. 🤷🏼♂️
GOD DAMB THAT THNG IS LOUD....
I love it 😍