Mercury 4-stroke Impeller change 4-5-6HP
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- Mercury 4-stroke Impeller change 4-5-6HP
Waterpomp/Impeller vervangen Mercury buitenboordmotor.
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Thanks for sharing and i love no music and excessive talking. Very helpful
Just the right amount of dialogue.
Like so many others who have reported, I too had problems with assembly of the lower unit to the upper. R&R impeller, etc, took an hour. After that it took 3 hours to attempt to put the two together and another two hours the next day. I can't say that I learned much as to why I had so many problems trying to get the two to properly match. I will mention a few things I discovered in the hope that someone else might benefit. I'm working with a 6 HP Mercury 4-stroke made in 2001.
1. There's a cam on top of the flywheel that won't allow the pull starter rope to operate unless it's in neutral. As I found that the lower unit must be in reverse to assemble, I put a pencil, or other item under the arm that the cam pushes on falsely raising it to neutral position. This allows you to pull the starter rope in whatever gear position. Pulling the spark plug will make pulling easier.
2. When the lower unit is on the bench, it's hard to tell what gear it is in. I drilled a 1/4th inch hole in a block of wood and used that to push the shift rod downward by inserting the upper end of the rod into the hole and pushing. Otherwise it's very hard to hold onto a greased rod and expect to exert any pressure. Also, measuring to top of the rod to the base at the bottom I found 14 inches at the reverse position; 14 ½" when in neutral. That seems about the only way to be sure what gear it's in.
3. After hours working on this and making very little progress at one point it got within about 5/16th inch to complete assembly. At this position I was able to get threads on the assembly bolts. I cranked her down happy for its completing. That elated smile quickly turned downward when I discovered that I couldn't turn the engine over nor shift gears at the shifter lever. Disassembled again, and try again.
4. After my step 3, I think I may have bent the shift rod. This required some straightening. I studied the video very slowly to ascertain the rod position when assembled. Coming from the base the rod goes straight, then slightly bends, and then straightens out again running parallel to the drive shaft. That rod can turn. The orientation of the upper bent portion of the shifting rod is closest to the drive shaft. Rotating it 180 degrees and it would be further away from the drive shaft. Keep the upper portion of that rod in a position closest to the drive shaft for assembly.
5. The stars were aligned just right and after about five hours over two days fighting this assembly, both halves slipped into position and quickly were bolted together.
6. Conclusion (and this is only a probability) is: set gear shift lever in reverse; push shift rod into reverse until it is 14 inches top to base; orient shift rod such that the upper portion is closest to the drive shaft and hope for the best!
Hi Howard, thank you for your reply. I just did this job yesterday and indeed found myself struggling to put the lower unit back on. But I figured out quite fast what the problem was.
As you stated, the gear selector shaft does need to be pointed towards the driveshaft. If that is correctly seated then you should be able to install the unit, I noticed it was stuck at a certain point... What I did was, I checked if the selector shaft was aligned with the hole in the mid section of the outboard where it sticks through the casing. I saw that it was nog properly aligned and when I put that through it would snap into place immediately! Took me 5 mins of work. After that I fastened the selector shaft and noticed it was in forward when the lever said neutral.. I just loosened the nut, clicked the shaft 1 click down, and tightened the nut again, all is well!
Thanks again for your reply and good luck for the next time
@@casparpaarlberg9560 It's nice to get the feedback, Caspar. Thanks.
@@casparpaarlberg9560p😊😊😅😊😅😅9mm 6th
This is how instructional videos should be made... No useless blabbering (like lots of videos here on youtube) and straight to the point + it can be understood by everyone! Thumbs UP !
your a complete idiot that makes no sense at all!!!
I just did this job and the video was helpful - Thanks! I wanted to comment on the last major step - getting the drive shaft and shift linkage back into place. This was challenging. I was only able to do this after removing the rubber grommet that the shift linkage fits through. This makes the hole much larger. After getting it bolted back together, I then put the grommet back in (a tight fit but possible). Also in this step be aware that there is a water tube that must fit into the lower end when sliding it back together.
Yes much easy sir. Wished I had read your message first instead of two hours later after I Hinsley gif it in. That is what I did. Also BIG NOTE HERE; the shift link arm should be oriented exactly straight with the driveshaft from prop to rear. The slight bend also goes to the rear. This shaft can get turned as in my case, finally got it straight and back in after couple hrs. Big relief.
Thanks so much for this video. It made this job doable.
As others have said the hard part is putting the lower unit back into the upper unit. I did two things to make that work. 1) Did exactly what you did down to the tiniest detail. Took 4 tries to realize this. 2) Took the little rubber grommet off so the shift linkage would fit easier, then replaced it. It all works great. Shifts good and runs without a problem.
I just reassembled my motor. As so many others stated, the biggest issue was getting the drive shaft back into its seat in the engine. After several failed attempts, I used a thin, straight metal rod and a flashlight to see that there is a sleeve just under the fly wheel that the shaft needs to get through. First try and by gently feeling it through as I fed the lower unit on, it clicked into place. Gentle tug on the starter cord and it fit right in. Also, I had it in what I thought was reverse, but turned out to be neutral. Adjusting was easy by using pliers to push the shift rod down after loosening the brass clamp in the side, then shifting to reverse, and tightening back down. Thanks again for the excellent video!
Don't be fooled by an impeller that is still pliable. These impeller fingers should stick straight out. These are positive displacement pumps. They actually get memory after a bit of being bent in the same position. This guy did an excellent job on this video. It went to perfect until you go to put it back together!!!! There were a few comments about problems getting the lower unit back on and aligned . I also spent about an hour and got pissed. The problem is the shifter rod trying to get it to aligned with the small rubber grommet that the rod went through. I removed the rubber grommet and had no problem putting it back together. It was a pain in the A$$ pushing the grommet back on however, but a small screwdriver and a bigger one pushing down on it did the trick. If you pull your old impeller out and the fingers are bent, you know it is time to replace.
Thank you very much for the very clear and and concise way you presented the information. It was extremelly helpful
I tried to return the lower unit for 3 days and then it just sat down ( Tohatsu 5, 2Stroke, short shaft) . I think it takes experience in all this, but not a problem.
Everything went into place, I adjusted the gearbox, water normally flows through the hole.The video helped me a lot, so thank you very much.
In 2020 this video was still useful, Thank you for making the video.
Great presentation with no talking. Loved it. Thanks.
Thank you for posting! I have to do this to the same exact motor and it was very helpful to watch this before starting the job. :)
Can’t seem to get the spline lined up! You made it look so easy!! I need a helper!
Sure seams like there is a lot of play in the new impeller at the drive shaft.
I know that they make like two different size shafts. On different years. So it’s just a good idea to make sure you have the correct impeller.
I’m going to change the lmpeller in my 9.9 mercury this year so I thank you for the good info
Worth knowing: when I took the impeller housing off and inspected the impeller, it looked immaculate - no cracks, rubber in good overall condition with no obvious wear and tear apart from the usual 'bent' fins. I cleaned everything up and by the time I went to put the old impeller back in, the fins had straightened-up again - I was positive the impeller was perfectly fine and my problem lay elsewhere. I assembled the unit and tried it again; still no 'thrust' of water but a feeble 'drip and dribble' - like an 80-year old with a prostate problem (sorry guys)
I poked into the tell-tale with a bit of wire; 'maybe there's some river sand blocked in there?' The wire sailed-in with no obstruction. 'Hell, it must be the thermo, or something equally horrific?'..
I'd done enough for the day and decided I'd install the brand-new impeller next day - "I don't think it's the impeller. I'm absolutely sure the existing one is working fine"..
Next day I dismantled the lower unit (in a jiffy, cos now I knew what to do) and installed the new impeller that I'd received in the post a couple days earlier. Would the brand-new impeller make a difference?
I fire-up the outboard (Tohatsu 3.5hp) and the thrust of water spewing from the tell-tale, like a fireman's hose, told its own story - I was delighted!
Having confirmed what the fault was, I took the new impeller out again and installed *all* of the new parts that came with the Tohatsu kit - the impeller, pump case liner, key, pump case gasket - and cleaned and re-greased as necessary.
Moral of the story; don't assume the impeller is okay cos it 'looks okay' - it's more than likely goosed. Change it.
Yup!
hardness of the impeller is important, too soft will not push the water around
Absolutely, Adeeb - can't have a soft and impotent impeller.. ;)
Ontzettend bedankt voor deze video! Ik heb vanavond me impeller vervangen!!!
Ik vond het terug zetten van de staart erg lastig, maar toen ik het door kreeg was het een fluitje van een cent.
De as in de "buis" icm met het versnellingsijzertje tegelijk was een hele opgave🤣👍🏼.
Perfect video that helped me replace the impeller during this year's holiday in Croatia. Thank you very much!!!
what a top man you are! Full respect.. Thanks very much indeed for posting this video. very much appreciated.
I must mention one more thing about the shift rod. The upper, top end of the rod, once assembled, comes out of the upper end of the cowling. When in reverse that shaft pushes a plate that locks the motor tilt. Part of the difficulty is likely getting those holes aligned. Perhaps playing with the shaft through the side connector hole will help with alignment.
Great video, thanks! Funny thing, as I watched you work that shaft into place, I thought to myself, I'll bet that isn't easy. Then I read the comments. LOL
top filmpje. wel wordt er erg veel vet verspilt op delen die dat helemaal niet nodig hebben.
Cool... Kieth Urban just showed me how to change my impeller....
haha.....
I was thinking the same thing! 😎
Your video was very helpful. But why didn't you use all of the new parts in the kit?
Thank you
Make sure the shifter shaft goes back through its hole! Its not obvious to a first-timer, but when reassembling make sure the lower units shifter shaft goes back through the small hole that pokes through the bow side of the casing. I spent a couple of hours trying to put the lower unit back on before I realized that. I felt like a prime idiot when I did. FYI the Mercury, Nissan, and Tohatsu 4/5/6 are identical with only the labeling on the cowling being different.
You can include Mariner 4,5 and 6 hp in the line up. I bought a 5hp Mariner Sailmate which came with the Mercury manual. I phoned Mariner UK to be told the only difference between Mariner and Mercury is the paint job and decals.
Mooie en duidelijk ook👍🏻
I had a horrible time getting the lower unit back on. In my case I had to loosen the bolt/clamp bracket on the gear shift rod and connect to the upper portion of the shift rod once the drive shaft was fully engaged ( clamped the upper and lower shift rods thru the hole in the casing) . Then the bolt stripped the threads in the brass clamp that connects the upper and lower shift rods. jury rigged this with new ss steel bolts grommet etc. and now works like a charm.
Great video! Clear and well done!
Thank you for this post. Usefull!
Top! Deze instructie zocht ik!
If that white grease is lithium marine grease, which is what it looks like, I wouldn’t be using it on the rubber impeller. Just in case anyone is watching this video as an instructional thing. If you must grease it, use a silicone based grease. Most outboard manufactures recommend no grease though.
Great video, love the no commentary. I feel a bit more confident after watching this, but you made it look way too smooth and easy. You probably did this a few times. Wish me luck. 😳
Is there a trick to getting the bottom part loose? Mine feels like the shaft is locked in. I am scared to apply too much pressure trying to slip the shaft out.
I loosened the shift rod clamp and it is not stuck, but the shaft doesn't want to come loose from the engine.
Great video. Thank you.
Hallo! Thanks for the instruction video. whats the white stuff you put on the impeller? grease? what kind?
Excellent. Same exact procedure for my 1998 Evinrude 5 HP E5RLECS
بغيت يماها ليلبيع8
excellent video thanks
Just spent 4 hours trying RE-install the lower unit, I had to measure the distance which help me to carefully catch the small opening into motors receiving end. For hours I kept missing it at the same distance. I finally lined it up right and went in the rest of the way.
Thanx man for the help!
No mention/showing of the very important little pin !
Yep i had to search the pin in my garden and redo everything because of this little pin😭
Looks like he i holding the pliars with the pin - but yeah, i was also missing that important part. Good video otherwise! Thanks!
which pin? what time in the video?
Michael Verdirame I think they are talking about the woodruff key. This goes on the drive shaft, the impeller slides down the drive shaft and a slot in the impeller goes over the key. Ensures the impeller spins with the shaft. During disassemble it’s easy for the key to get lost.
@@OstriChicken I think they mean the woodruff key in the groove in the inside of the impeller that keeps it inline with the shaft
Het aan elkaar vastzetten van de schakelstangetjes blijft een raadsel. Nieuwe sparepart gekocht maar zit geen schroefdraad in het ene blokje. Hoe krijg je de 2 messing deeltjes vast op elkaar? Voor de rest bedankt voor de demo.
Is it normal for a small amount of water to come out of the plug where u connect the shifting rod together?
So you did not use any new gasket? Thank you for video.
Nice video
Great video! I just followed the same steps but now I’m having an issue with the linkage I think. Motor won’t go in neutral, every time I pull start the prop spins.
push the rod down of the lower unit, put it in reverse, en connect the linkage
I have the same motor, trying to remove the engine block but after taking all 6 bolts off it doesn't move at all... is there anything else I need to remove first?
so, why did you buy the repair kit? you only used the impeller. good video and helpful information. thanks.
I have both in my shop, the bag is only the impeller and the box is the complete kit.
Only showing the difference in the video of extra parts u get in the kit.
@@LocomotionBreda why didn't you just say that in video?
Thanks dude!
leuke video
Wish he would explain the most difficult part. Does anyone know any other video that actually help you at the end. This lower unit is causing so much stress, thanks in advance
One guy, a Jon Henjum, one year ago, commented here to make sure that both the engine and the gearbox, (the bottom bit) are in neutral. Maybe this video? I have not finished it yet. SUZUKI DF 6HP IMPELLER REPLACE Mark Davies. If you see this, could you tell me how to change the oil on this motor. Thank you.
Also above Anita Tate responded with: Great VIDEO, but when you are trying to put lower unit in, have a extra hand near by to hold the brass shaft grommet out of the way so drive shaft can go on in. If you don't have another hand handy, this very difficult. Seems the shaft was hitting something invisible!
Some narration would be great. What are you doing to the shift rod in the last 2 minutes? My Merc 6hp breaks free and revs under load. I was told it might be the adjustment on the shift rod...and that it may not be fully engaging when I shift into forward. What is the procedure for adjusting this linkage? I just had it apart and did an impeller change and seal replacement. I suspect I have the shift rod incorrectly adjusted.
Place the lower unit in reverse by pushing the rod down, instal the lower unit, tighten the bolts, put the shifter in reverse, and connect the gear shift rod.
Kan het kloppen dat de schroef draait als je de buitenboordmotor in de vrij hebt? Heeft dezelfde draairichting als in de achteruit en als ik mijn voet tegen de schroef zet stopt hij met draaien, hoort dit zo?
Best impossible!...Thanks!!!!
Thanx. Ik heb gedaan zoals uitgelegd in de video maar ik krijg het onderste deel niet goed los. Tot zo'n 10 cm en dan stopt het. Versnelling staat in achteruit en dw schroef van het blokje dat de twee staven aan elkaar verbind is los (wat achter de ronde rubberen dop zit). Ik zal iets vergeten zijn maar weet niet goed wat. Iemand die mij een suggestie kan geven? Alvast dank.
Why does it look like you didn’t replace the gaskets? Did you?
I don’t understand, should I put the gasket on it? If not, what is the gasket(s) for?
very clear
,after loosening the three nuts the gear box wont split from the shaft movememt left and right but not down,any tips?
Considering the age of this video i think I'm unlikely to get a reply but anyways......... I have a case in which the shift rod when in its lowest position puts the engine in neutral and not reverse, when I try to start the motor the prop is turning.
I dont know how I manage to lose reverse. Have no choice now but to get all the parts together and find a mechanic to get it back together for me.
What is the white jelly that you are applying?
Awesome video!
I have same 2015 Mercury 6hp 4 stroke
Its stuck in forward gear.
Do you by any chance have a video about this?
Ive watch your video over and over I tried keep the gear in neutral I accidentally hit it trying to put back the lower end and some how wont go all the way in to flush to secure bolt it's been difficult..
Does anyone know how to fit a tachometer to this engine
Good
un vrai pro
Perfect
thank you
How do I change the fuel tank on this motor the threads are stripped or looks corroded on the tank
Was that brake cleaner you sprayed it with?
How to close it ??? I removed the connecting block from the shifter rod, I insert the transmission rod in the grommet and I reinstall the block on the shifter rod, VOILA !
After I changed the water pump impeller, there's still no water comes out. Does the impeller have right side, or both sides are ok?
You could have a clogged block, or did you loose the staft key
Cekiert no, the key is there. And I also tested flushing from bottom or top, the water was coming. Is the water pump doesn’t have enough power?
is the tube correctly in the waterpumpoutlet?
What if the rubber part comes off, but the metal ring from inside the impeller are stuck on the driveshaft? how can I get it off?
Clean the shaft verry wel above the ring, a lot of wd40, maybe a heatgun without burning the seals onder the plate.
Last resort is using a grinder "gently"
or go to a local marine shop, if somthing brakes its more expensive
Can't get the prop assembly back up into engine block something doesn't line up?
Some times you need to pull the starting cord to line up the splines, when it was easy everybody would do it!
zit er een thermostaat in t blok? ik heb namelijk de zelfde motor maar bij mij is het probleem dat ie te warm word (blok) en het koel water blijft net zo koel dr in als dat t er uit komt ......ik hoop dat hier antwoord op heb dankje wel
Zo uit het hoofd dacht ik onder de overbrenging van de gaskabels naar het hendeltje van de carburateur.
locomotionbreda .... Dankje
Thanks for posting. Nice video. What's the trick for sliding the shift rod through the clamp on the shift linkage? My friend and I spent three hours yesterday trying to connect the clamp through the hole in the side and couldn't get it. Also we had trouble getting the shift rod to go back through the little hole on the top of the case.
Hi! I have a question why on the video shows that in the original spare part bag with impeler are also sealings but he doesn't use them why?
I have both in my shop, the bag is only the impeller and the box is the complete kit.
Only showing the difference in the video of extra parts u get in the kit.
@@LocomotionBreda does the complete kit include seals for shift shaft?
@5:30 no seals only gasket.
What grease is that
hey, I can't get the lower unit back in everything is just the way it was when I took it off. any suggestions? thanks brother.
Be sure that the alignment is correct wen placing the driveshaft.
The water tube is correctly placed in the waterpump.
The gear linkage is through the small block and then through the small hole coming out of the lower unit (its for lifting the lock of the bracket)
Try to pull gently the starting cord wen lifting the lowerunit to line up the splines of the driveshaft.
locomotionbreda
thanks for the help. I have it all back together now but when in neutral the prop spins forward(once started) and when in reverse the prop is in neutral. is this a linkage issue or do I have to take it all back off? also still no water "peeing" from the motor, im farely sure its not clogged, because the issue occured between normal fishing trips. could it be a bigger problem than I thought? 2009 6hp mercury 4 stroke.
Loosen the bolt on the side of the motor, under the rubber cap.
@0:23
Use pliers to push the rod of the lowerunit down in reverse gear,
then push the gear shifter in reverse, tighten the bolt again.
@15:00
And the linkage is Synchronized.
Wen there is no water coming out of the pee hole.
You are sure that the pipe is correctly in the waterpumphousing,
check it by looking in the hole on the side of the tail with a flash lite.
Use a needle to peers the peehole.
Use a compressor to blow the peehole carefully when the motor is running in the water,
You will see extra bubbles coming out of the water, try this several times.
locomotionbreda
thank you so much, it means a lot that you help people with questions on here so that we can get back to doing what we love. keep it up my friend, peace.
Like @ Facbook: LocoMotion Watersport Breda
Would have been better if you actually talking explained what you were doing
I'm Dutch.
This is a Dutch company. Can you understand Nederlander Dutch?
What kind of spray did he use to clean? And what was the white lubricant ?
It's a degreaser, you can use al kinds of lubricants if they dont effect the rubber impeller, vaseline is also good.
on the driveshaft use a water resistant grease
Need to clean drive shaft of crud with oiled emery cloth to stop it svratching rubber sesling grommet.
На 11.30 минуте, как раз полностью соответствует всё проделанное им до этого момента... ))) Не знал, что можно лечить смазкой изношенную пластину со стаканом помпы. Автор зачем ты так акцентировал внимание на ремонтные комплекты в видео?
i try to show al the possibilities
is it the same for 2T ??
yes, I also have a 2t engine
More of such videos
Boa noite. Gostaria de saber como sacar a coroa e piaõ do diferencial do mercury 5 h p
Amigo requiero una bomba completa Mercury 4hp
Precio por favor
Aldo falcón Venezuela
Estado Lara Barquisimeto
I am having trouble putting lower part back
Edgar Brito me too
Nigel1 week geledenGemarkeerde reactie
I just did this job and the video was helpful - Thanks! I wanted to comment on the last major step - getting the drive shaft and shift linkage back into place. This was challenging. I was only able to do this after removing the rubber grommet that the shift linkage fits through. This makes the hole much larger. After getting it bolted back together, I then put the grommet back in (a tight fit but possible). Also in this step be aware that there is a water tube that must fit into the lower end when sliding it back together.
how do you make 6 hp out of this engine what part needs changed
only the carb
my friend this procedure good for 4-5-6 hp engines
Jammer dat je niet goed kan zien hoe je die staart er weer terug in stopt.
Goed met een zaklamp in de staart kijken dan zie je de geleidingen waar de aandrijfas door moet, onderstaart in de achteruit laten staan, misschien klein beetje aan startkoord trekken bij het invoeren van het laatste stukje om de splines uit te lijnen, staart aandraaien en opletten dat hij op de hendel in de achteruit staat, dan pas blokje verbinden wat schakel as verbind.
Verder nog vragen: info@watersportbreda.nl
Como comprar este motor moro no Brasil SC Criciúma valor ?
Mercy ;-)
good video but putting shaft and the connection to shifter were glossed over
sorry
The shiftrod from the lower unit goes into the block what is still hanging on the rod from the upper unit.
Do not turn the bolt to loose because els the block falls of the upper rod
Yep, I turned the bolt too loose - and the block fell into the leg.. Heck. I got it out okay*. It's tricky to know when to stop loosening the bolt; if it's the first time you've done the job you can't know when it's ready to fall off.
* I have a Tohatsu 3.5. When the block fell off I knew I would have a real problem getting it on again, the side access hole is too small to do this. I had to dismantle the 'middle section' of the leg - the section directly above the lower unit (I don't know if only the Tohatsu has this removable middle-section?) and then I was able to support the block with my fingers, from under its location, while tightening the nut to hold it to the rod...
...And then I couldn't get the lower unit back in (just like TheBassMaster1988 says earlier in this post). I gave it a couple of hours and then abandoned it for the night. I'll try again tomorrow, using locomotionbreda's suggestion of gently pulling the starting cord (see him doing this at 12:22).
Okay, I got the lower unit in.
Before I even started to try and put it in, before I pushed the lower unit on, I just gave a very short, very gentle pull on the starting cord until I felt it tuning the engine once - and then I stopped. This was enough for the splines to line up and the lower unit sailed straight in, easy as pie. To think I spent ages hearing the lower unit knock against an obstacle every time I tried to push it in, and not knowing why the bloody thing wouldn't go in? (rolls eyes). Again, you'll notice at 12:22 the dude pulling on the starting cord whilst holding the bottom unit in - you don't even have to hold the bottom unit in, just pull gently on the cord a little before this. Bob's your uncle!
Berapa harga 4pk bos
You don't talk?
I speak dutch, do you know the language! And if you dont understand the video go to a specialist!
Dutch is good, YT has a translator,
You obviously have much more knowledge to share about things that could go wrong which you could be talking about while working.
Great video, I especially appreciate the close ups at the right moment.
You help a lot.
Keep up the great vid.s !!
Excellent video! Just what I needed to help me replace my shot impeller. Thank you!
What about getting the rod back in to gear shift 👎 the rest is easy
No need for translations here.
remreiniger uit action..lol
11:29 Dirty boy