In other words, painting eye-catching white as well as black is a classic technical skill. Hard to learn, but much easier to replicate once you become good at it.
Awesome Kitsune miniature with a giant sword is from today's sponsor, Signum Games! www.kickstarter.com/projects/signumgames/kitsute-clan-of-the-scarlet-forest/
First video of yours that I've ever seen. Really enjoyed it. I love the idea of taking a picture of the model after priming black so I'm totally going to do that next time I'm getting ready to paint. Awesome video thanks for all the info.
I have been collecting White Scars since 2015, and have tried many variations on how to paint white. The best option that I came up with is a white matte primer and Ulthuan Grey (which I apply with a quick Dry brush method). White turns out to be very pleasant, not gray, but not dazzling either (as you rightly said, there are no such things in nature). This is my base, after which I start painting the miniature. I have painted various Space Marines, and I can say that white armor is much faster to paint in my way. The video is very interesting and informative. I will definitely try the white AK
The first time I opened my Corax White I swore it had gone bad it was so lumpy/chalky, little did I know... There's a ton of great info in this video as always! I haven't painted much white yet but I'll definitely be coming back to this when I do.
Remember also a great tip from Vince Venturella, it's to use gloss medium to increase the richness of the white. A good mix of a heavy body, ink and a normal white paint is the OVERKILL white you need. Also; Patience is the key of success. Great video as always friend. (Also, i search about 50 shades of grey, what kind of painting skill is BDSM?... oh.. wait... )
Zumikito is 100% right about AK Interactive. I cannot stress enough how GOOD this brand's white paint is. I discovered it about 6 months ago by watching a painting streaming on Twitch and the painter said himself that it wasn't even up for debate. After hours of hard labour with GW white spray can or white paint, it was incredible to get finally a nice and smooth coverage with ease ! I dropped my CSM World Eaters project entirely because of that (I wanted to go for a white and red color scheme) after painting 5 marines because of how time consuming it was but now I picked it up again. Another excellent video from you, as always ;)
When I paint white, I base grey for matt finish. Vallejo dark stone really makes it pop. Silver for highlights or contrast. Works nicely if you have only one white. For Yellow base pink and for red base yellow. Job done.
1) Why in the name of all that is holy would you use a black primer for a white miniature? It's like running a 100m race on a track in combat boots. You can do it, but it's difficult and inefficient. If you don't want to use a light primer, at least start with gray. (My preference is currently for zenithal, but that has changed before and might change again.) 2) Rather than heavy-body artists' acrylics, try artists' fluid acrylics (called "acrylic gouache" by some companies). They have a similar pigment density to the heavy body, but they're about the consistency of hobby acrylics. 3) There are only three white pigments in common use in paint: Zinc White - Low tinting strength, which can be very useful since it requires much less thinning to get thin layers than other whites, but can also be problematic for coverage in limited numbers of coats; Lead White (also called Flake White or Cremnitz White) - hard to find because of its toxicity when you ingest it (don't eat your paint, people); and Titanium White - very high tinting strength, very high reflectivity, and decent opacity. 4) Nearly all acrylic paints use titanium dioxide. In order to be white, TiO2 must be ground to a specific grain size to within quite narrow tolerances. There is no difference between pigment grain sizes. 5) Since (virtually) all hobby white paints use exactly the same pigment, the differences are only in the amount of pigment and the medium in which the pigment is suspended. Pigment is the most expensive part of the paint (though TiO2 is pretty cheap), so it's what gets skimped on when a manufacturer is trying to make cheap paint. Buy the good stuff (whether from a hobby paint company or an artists' paint company).
This is great, addressed a lot of the issues I have been having with yellow paint. I know its a different color, but it is so light its the same problems.
hm.. I got good results with a tip of a friend who is working for a painting manufacturer : a little bit of (LITTLE) of light blue in the white will make it look brighter - combined with a white basing and some very light grey for the recesses works great for me
Great topic, as many people struggle with white. I really like Golden's Titanium White which seems very similar to the AK one you showed. Will definitely try the AK one next. Also had good results with ink, and sometimes mix the two when airbrushing. As i feel pure ink sometimes lacks sturdiness when applied through the Airbrush and working with Oil Washes or Contrast Paints afterwards.
The trick with inks through an airbrush is low pressure, short bursts and matte medium to kill the gloss if you won't be vanishing. The medium will make it a bit more transparent which actually works in your favor by allowing you to create your gray transitions by hitting less of the model with each layer
Interesting! I'm watching a lot of these mini painting videos in preparation for properly trying to paint my first minitaure after exams are done. And this is the same problem I've had with just painting black/white things on paper, because finding the right amount of contrast so it doesn't look mushy grey is hard
Another thing to think about when painting white is the specifics of the white. If you're doing something that isn't supposed to have the ethereal or hard white look to it, a better option is to go from an off white. I've got a lot of pseudo-medieval fantasy knights for an army I've been working on where there is a lot of white cloth. I tend to start with a ivory or parchment warm off-white as a base coat, then I use a brown ink wash and work back up with to the base coat and highlight to white or near white depending upon where it is on the figure (The padded coif for example to make the edges of it stick out against the face). I also have a cold off white that I work with up to a white for the emblem on the shields.
Fun fact: Testor's Model Paint Acrylic flat white isn't chalky at all and covers really well. I've used it forever and never had issues with it looking chalky, an even better version is their Model Master line which is their premium paint lineup but really just the regular little square bottles you find for doing models work just fine.
I'm new to painting minis and my second one I decided to go for white with black lines as cracked armor. Showed it people and everyone was like wow no way your new to this. Now I understand why. :') I never seem to pick easy options lol.
For miniature paints it doesn’t get better than Monument Hobbies Pro Acryl Bold Titanium White. Had someone in our paint club put a few dozen white paints to the test and it beat them all by a decent margin, including a bunch of HBA’s as well. Definitely worth checking out if you can get your hands on it.
I really liked the P3 white, it was smooth and flowed beautifully when painted straight out of the pot. Too bad I spilled it and then found that the line is difficult to find certain colors, such as that white.
The thing with greys is that they can really shape how the model feels. Just the slightest purple or green in the grey can take the "white" in an entire direction than envisioned.
I already used black primer and did a coat of drybrushed gray on a figure before I changed my mind I want to paint it white. Do I just prime it white on top of those coats or do I remove the paint and start over? Or can I just drybrush on top some white and see how it goes?
This was extremely helpful, awesome tips altogether! I've been battling with this issue, especially using citadel's own white paints. Now I just need to get new model to be painted white and try this out :D (or just make pale albino orks from existing pile of shame)
I got some good titanium white and weirdly found it worse than Army Painter matt white. Just found it never went on smooth regardless of thinning or added medium
Thanks for another great video. I just looked to see if you had a patreon because I love your concise and clear teaching style, just thought I'd let you know in case you hear it from others too, could be worth trying out.
I've been building Thousand Sons and I really want to paint them white with copper trim and I have been absolutely dreading painting them. I'm hoping some of these tops can help me out.
painting white over a yellow base color works very well for me. i can manage to get brighter withes then when i paint over grey. But need 2-3 layers of white for this. maybe the metallic grey i used unter the yellow takes a part to. That what i had under the yellow the first time when i got the idea.
Hello there! Quick question. I am painting a mini where the OG art has limbs made out of... I'd say Ivory or marbled stone with carvings. But painting it white is simply too flat. Most bone guides go really brown-ish that does not convey a good looking ivory made. Any tips how to paint creamy ivory?
Very useful info, thank you! I painted my son's 1st mini white. It is for his D&D character, a white dragon born pally. I struggled and it failed in my eyes. I'll do this on the next one.
I've read that for oil paint the lighter pigments cover better than dark ones - opposite acrylic. I do not know if this is true. ... Is it?! Too bad you can't use oil paint for base coats :-/
@@Haunted_Gallows Must be a reason it's obscured and I don't want to cause any trouble. But if you look for "Acrylverf Titaanwit 105" you will find it. It's a Dutch brand though. I think the main point is that it's not the cheap and cheerful paint kind and not quite artists grade either. I use it on all of my terrain. Different beast I know but I enjoy employing these techniques all the same.
I haven't painted these miniatures for a long time, but back in I think 2nd edition 40k the recommendation was to basecoat lighter colored space marine chapters with skull white, is that not a thing anymore that would help with the white armor color schemes?
As someone who picked the metallica forgeworld (white/red) for his AdMech troops, I'm grateful for this video
2 года назад
Oh man, I did all the mistakes with my Loona 3D print. I spent hours covering my nice black/white priming with layers of white. Oh well, learning experience.
Liquitex is easy to recommend because it's decent and also seems to be everywhere. An easy way to spot decent brands of artist grade paints is to look for different prices depending on the colour. Titanium White should cost way less than Cadmium Red for example.
Yep. The best way to paint white is to use very little actual white. Gray, tan, ivory, pale blue, all of these are excellent places to start for white, and either layer or feather up.
Thank you for these guides. I'm just getting into mini painting (Marvel Crisis Protocol) and your videos have been the most helpful. Would you consider doing a non-metal metallic guide on Thor?
That is great to hear! I already have NMM guide on my channel and I don't wanna limit myself to just 1 miniature in my vids, so I try to keep it general
I never paint white. I just have a pot of light gray that I turn other colors for dry brushing and use inks for everything else. I, of course, immediately fuck it up by using yellow which also needs its own dedicated dry brushing color because it is literally brighter than the lightest grey on the market and even white just makes it bland.
An acrylic medium. GW make their Lahmian medium, but - being in a GW paint bottle - it's super easy to contaminate. And expensive, especially compared to other acrylic mediums (media? I think mediums in this case) that you can probably find in a local craft store or on Amazon.
Cool video! From all this, we can make an unambiguous conclusion, you should not paint pure black or white models)) SIGNUM GAMES I remember their miniatire "Kumiko" painted Giraldéz, wonderful models, very bright, interesting and beautiful!
White paint is always a pain and airbrushing doesn't make it any better. I have sprayed with my airbrush undiluted, pure white paint and it still comes out watery and it just won't spread evenly no matter what.
Every time..
“This would look great in white!”
“I should probably use grays and build up…”
*grabs pure white and fights the model for an hour*
I got directed to this video after literally following that process to a T 🤦♂glad I am not the only one!
Same exact process here
Bob Ross voice: "Titanium H'white"
In other words, painting eye-catching white as well as black is a classic technical skill. Hard to learn, but much easier to replicate once you become good at it.
I mean if your building a Slaneesh army - 50 shades of gray would be required reading.
Awesome Kitsune miniature with a giant sword is from today's sponsor, Signum Games! www.kickstarter.com/projects/signumgames/kitsute-clan-of-the-scarlet-forest/
First video of yours that I've ever seen. Really enjoyed it. I love the idea of taking a picture of the model after priming black so I'm totally going to do that next time I'm getting ready to paint. Awesome video thanks for all the info.
I have been collecting White Scars since 2015, and have tried many variations on how to paint white. The best option that I came up with is a white matte primer and Ulthuan Grey (which I apply with a quick Dry brush method). White turns out to be very pleasant, not gray, but not dazzling either (as you rightly said, there are no such things in nature). This is my base, after which I start painting the miniature. I have painted various Space Marines, and I can say that white armor is much faster to paint in my way. The video is very interesting and informative. I will definitely try the white AK
Any chance you have your models posted on the internet anywhere? I'd really like to take a look at them if you don't mind.
I’ve been mostly using full body acrylic for my white and it has made a huge difference.
The first time I opened my Corax White I swore it had gone bad it was so lumpy/chalky, little did I know...
There's a ton of great info in this video as always! I haven't painted much white yet but I'll definitely be coming back to this when I do.
Those space marines look awesome
Remember also a great tip from Vince Venturella, it's to use gloss medium to increase the richness of the white. A good mix of a heavy body, ink and a normal white paint is the OVERKILL white you need. Also; Patience is the key of success. Great video as always friend. (Also, i search about 50 shades of grey, what kind of painting skill is BDSM?... oh.. wait... )
Remember also a great tip*
There are a bunch of BDSM miniatures.
Zumikito is 100% right about AK Interactive. I cannot stress enough how GOOD this brand's white paint is. I discovered it about 6 months ago by watching a painting streaming on Twitch and the painter said himself that it wasn't even up for debate. After hours of hard labour with GW white spray can or white paint, it was incredible to get finally a nice and smooth coverage with ease ! I dropped my CSM World Eaters project entirely because of that (I wanted to go for a white and red color scheme) after painting 5 marines because of how time consuming it was but now I picked it up again.
Another excellent video from you, as always ;)
And what about the vallejo one, the vallejo white? Is that usable as well?(no necessarily as good as ak)
Perfect timing! I have a white dragon for D&D primed and ready to paint on my desk right now and it's been stressing me out on how to do it.
Have you managed to paint it in those 3 years?
When I paint white, I base grey for matt finish. Vallejo dark stone really makes it pop. Silver for highlights or contrast. Works nicely if you have only one white.
For Yellow base pink and for red base yellow. Job done.
1) Why in the name of all that is holy would you use a black primer for a white miniature? It's like running a 100m race on a track in combat boots. You can do it, but it's difficult and inefficient. If you don't want to use a light primer, at least start with gray. (My preference is currently for zenithal, but that has changed before and might change again.)
2) Rather than heavy-body artists' acrylics, try artists' fluid acrylics (called "acrylic gouache" by some companies). They have a similar pigment density to the heavy body, but they're about the consistency of hobby acrylics.
3) There are only three white pigments in common use in paint: Zinc White - Low tinting strength, which can be very useful since it requires much less thinning to get thin layers than other whites, but can also be problematic for coverage in limited numbers of coats; Lead White (also called Flake White or Cremnitz White) - hard to find because of its toxicity when you ingest it (don't eat your paint, people); and Titanium White - very high tinting strength, very high reflectivity, and decent opacity.
4) Nearly all acrylic paints use titanium dioxide. In order to be white, TiO2 must be ground to a specific grain size to within quite narrow tolerances. There is no difference between pigment grain sizes.
5) Since (virtually) all hobby white paints use exactly the same pigment, the differences are only in the amount of pigment and the medium in which the pigment is suspended. Pigment is the most expensive part of the paint (though TiO2 is pretty cheap), so it's what gets skimped on when a manufacturer is trying to make cheap paint. Buy the good stuff (whether from a hobby paint company or an artists' paint company).
This is great, addressed a lot of the issues I have been having with yellow paint. I know its a different color, but it is so light its the same problems.
hm.. I got good results with a tip of a friend who is working for a painting manufacturer : a little bit of (LITTLE) of light blue in the white will make it look brighter - combined with a white basing and some very light grey for the recesses works great for me
Kimera is pretty good as well, smooth and pretty good coverage
Great topic, as many people struggle with white. I really like Golden's Titanium White which seems very similar to the AK one you showed. Will definitely try the AK one next. Also had good results with ink, and sometimes mix the two when airbrushing. As i feel pure ink sometimes lacks sturdiness when applied through the Airbrush and working with Oil Washes or Contrast Paints afterwards.
The trick with inks through an airbrush is low pressure, short bursts and matte medium to kill the gloss if you won't be vanishing. The medium will make it a bit more transparent which actually works in your favor by allowing you to create your gray transitions by hitting less of the model with each layer
Words cannot express how perfect your timing is. 😀😀😀
My favorite white is Winsor & Newton Galeria Acrylic Titanium White. Great coverage, easy to thin!
Just straight crushing it sir! Thank you and please stay safe.
Interesting! I'm watching a lot of these mini painting videos in preparation for properly trying to paint my first minitaure after exams are done. And this is the same problem I've had with just painting black/white things on paper, because finding the right amount of contrast so it doesn't look mushy grey is hard
Another thing to think about when painting white is the specifics of the white.
If you're doing something that isn't supposed to have the ethereal or hard white look to it, a better option is to go from an off white. I've got a lot of pseudo-medieval fantasy knights for an army I've been working on where there is a lot of white cloth. I tend to start with a ivory or parchment warm off-white as a base coat, then I use a brown ink wash and work back up with to the base coat and highlight to white or near white depending upon where it is on the figure (The padded coif for example to make the edges of it stick out against the face).
I also have a cold off white that I work with up to a white for the emblem on the shields.
Fun fact: Testor's Model Paint Acrylic flat white isn't chalky at all and covers really well. I've used it forever and never had issues with it looking chalky, an even better version is their Model Master line which is their premium paint lineup but really just the regular little square bottles you find for doing models work just fine.
I'm new to painting minis and my second one I decided to go for white with black lines as cracked armor. Showed it people and everyone was like wow no way your new to this. Now I understand why. :')
I never seem to pick easy options lol.
Very informative! I haven't thought about using acrylic inks, thank you for giving the idea.
I rather like painting my white sisters of battle, starting with grey for shadows.
Yellow on the other hand, is a turd that just keeps smelling.
try pink, different tones and then airbrush yellow all over it, works the same for orange
Alternatively, use oil paints. Indian Yellow and Cadmium Yellow are both really intense, so if you put it over a light base coat, it looks awesome.
Love your approach on videos man, very easy to follow. Very well done, I’ve never painted a white model but now I’m gonna give it a shot.
Thank you and good luck!
Man, I thought your space marines looked good, but that kitsune with the greatsword is fantastic.
Painting my first ultramarine, feeling im doing pretty well. Got all the bases, just need to paint the shoulder symbols white. Now im here.
white/yellow fee...I didn't know that :D
The way he says chalky makes me feel tingly
Honestly, light primer and white contrast is probably the best option.
Thanks for recommending the AK paint. I’ll try that next.
Good training and learning moments when I chose to paint my 28 mm napoleonics with white uniforms.
For miniature paints it doesn’t get better than Monument Hobbies Pro Acryl Bold Titanium White. Had someone in our paint club put a few dozen white paints to the test and it beat them all by a decent margin, including a bunch of HBA’s as well. Definitely worth checking out if you can get your hands on it.
Woah!!! Where'd you get that first mini? The Kitsune with the two hander?
there is a link in the description, check it out :)
SUPER HELPFUL!!! Thank you for creating this
Great content as always!
I really liked the P3 white, it was smooth and flowed beautifully when painted straight out of the pot. Too bad I spilled it and then found that the line is difficult to find certain colors, such as that white.
The thing with greys is that they can really shape how the model feels. Just the slightest purple or green in the grey can take the "white" in an entire direction than envisioned.
Scale 75 scalcolour white is really good too, just thin it a ton, it's gotta really small pigments, so you can thin it to death.
I already used black primer and did a coat of drybrushed gray on a figure before I changed my mind I want to paint it white.
Do I just prime it white on top of those coats or do I remove the paint and start over? Or can I just drybrush on top some white and see how it goes?
Great video, I love Golden and Kimera whites but there are lots of great brands out there
This was extremely helpful, awesome tips altogether! I've been battling with this issue, especially using citadel's own white paints. Now I just need to get new model to be painted white and try this out :D (or just make pale albino orks from existing pile of shame)
I got some good titanium white and weirdly found it worse than Army Painter matt white. Just found it never went on smooth regardless of thinning or added medium
your brother is very talented as well!
Vallejo makes Black, White, Grey, and Tan primer you can airbrush.
Hey, would you be interested in making a video of painting one of your Space Marines step by step? I really would love to see that ^^
It's out there - 4 part series for sons of the phoenix white space marines! It's older but still works
Thanks for another great video. I just looked to see if you had a patreon because I love your concise and clear teaching style, just thought I'd let you know in case you hear it from others too, could be worth trying out.
oh it is coming! Thank you for your support :)
I've been building Thousand Sons and I really want to paint them white with copper trim and I have been absolutely dreading painting them. I'm hoping some of these tops can help me out.
Have you tried Pro-Acyl white paint? I find it has really good coverage and you don't have to thin it out of the pot.
I didn't, but it sounds very similar to the acrylic ink
@@Zumikito Unlike acrylic ink, which I find dries somewhat shiny, Pro-Acryl paint dries super matte. Thanks for the great video content!
I always feel like I'm drinking from the well of knowledge watching these videos. You really nail instruction.
What is that sword rabbit miniatur? Amazing! Top Vid Beardbro!
Check out the pinned link - it's from Signum Games :)
painting white over a yellow base color works very well for me.
i can manage to get brighter withes then when i paint over grey. But need 2-3 layers of white for this.
maybe the metallic grey i used unter the yellow takes a part to. That what i had under the yellow the first time when i got the idea.
Hello there! Quick question. I am painting a mini where the OG art has limbs made out of... I'd say Ivory or marbled stone with carvings. But painting it white is simply too flat. Most bone guides go really brown-ish that does not convey a good looking ivory made. Any tips how to paint creamy ivory?
Most people simply painted it silver mettalic btw
Heavy body whites always work for me. Metallic paints too
This is partly why I started off with Raven Guard, even with the occasional Sergeant, Veteran or Shrike.
Very useful info, thank you! I painted my son's 1st mini white. It is for his D&D character, a white dragon born pally. I struggled and it failed in my eyes. I'll do this on the next one.
The vallejo white has worked well for me but the other problems with white as a color don't change
Thank god I thought it was just me who struggled with Citadel white - even after priming the minis with light grey you still need about 3 coats
I've read that for oil paint the lighter pigments cover better than dark ones - opposite acrylic.
I do not know if this is true. ... Is it?!
Too bad you can't use oil paint for base coats :-/
Have you tried privateer press white paint I use it and I think the coverage is nice
Oh nice! Though you hid the brand I recognized the acrylic white as one that's available everywhere around me. Good to know.
What brand is it?
@@Haunted_Gallows Must be a reason it's obscured and I don't want to cause any trouble. But if you look for "Acrylverf Titaanwit 105" you will find it. It's a Dutch brand though. I think the main point is that it's not the cheap and cheerful paint kind and not quite artists grade either. I use it on all of my terrain. Different beast I know but I enjoy employing these techniques all the same.
That is purely a coincidence, there is no reason that it's obscured haha
@@Haunted_Gallows Turns out there is no reason. Talens/Amsterdam is the brand.
0:10 AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA. That bottle is not sealed properly!!
What wash would you suggest on too of white though?
I haven't painted these miniatures for a long time, but back in I think 2nd edition 40k the recommendation was to basecoat lighter colored space marine chapters with skull white, is that not a thing anymore that would help with the white armor color schemes?
Amazing video again! White is indeed hard to paint... Painted like 6 units of stormtroopers...
As someone who picked the metallica forgeworld (white/red) for his AdMech troops, I'm grateful for this video
Oh man, I did all the mistakes with my Loona 3D print. I spent hours covering my nice black/white priming with layers of white. Oh well, learning experience.
in my experience priming in anything other than black tends to help. like grey seer
What color is your space marine army? What grey did you use to make the white less white?
My favorite color to paint is red. Much easier than white. Even though i have some tau in white. I should have done them in red.
Im doing a grimdark ork ormy with white orks ... white shure is a challange but yellow is still my nemesis
3:33 how did you paint this shield?
3:44 I see what you did there
What is that fox thing from?
Secret Rare Insider Tip:
Print your minis in white resin if you are going to paint them white.
Great video!
Great tip thanks. Have you ever used Pro Acryl paints? I have and the white is really good. Just a thought. And again keep up the great work.
3:44 pheeew dodged a bullet... I am glad that I don´t need to buy that book...
I heard about heavy body acrylics from EOB, do you have any recommendations they recommended Liquitex.
Liquitex is easy to recommend because it's decent and also seems to be everywhere. An easy way to spot decent brands of artist grade paints is to look for different prices depending on the colour. Titanium White should cost way less than Cadmium Red for example.
@@jayward8943 thanks 🙏
Yep. The best way to paint white is to use very little actual white. Gray, tan, ivory, pale blue, all of these are excellent places to start for white, and either layer or feather up.
have u ever tried white out liquid
That's it, I will be just painting grey and highlighting up to white from now on.
Thank you for these guides. I'm just getting into mini painting (Marvel Crisis Protocol) and your videos have been the most helpful.
Would you consider doing a non-metal metallic guide on Thor?
That is great to hear! I already have NMM guide on my channel and I don't wanna limit myself to just 1 miniature in my vids, so I try to keep it general
@@Zumikito understandable! Thanks for your response!
I never paint white. I just have a pot of light gray that I turn other colors for dry brushing and use inks for everything else.
I, of course, immediately fuck it up by using yellow which also needs its own dedicated dry brushing color because it is literally brighter than the lightest grey on the market and even white just makes it bland.
Great video as always 👌
I must've been the lucky few who has decent citadel white paint pots
Thanks
Meanwhile I slather on apothecary white contrast paint and call it a day. Looks great. :D
How did you thin down the heavy body paint.
An acrylic medium. GW make their Lahmian medium, but - being in a GW paint bottle - it's super easy to contaminate. And expensive, especially compared to other acrylic mediums (media? I think mediums in this case) that you can probably find in a local craft store or on Amazon.
Was waiting for the 50 Shades of Grey joke and I'm not disappointed.
Cool video! From all this, we can make an unambiguous conclusion, you should not paint pure black or white models)) SIGNUM GAMES I remember their miniatire "Kumiko" painted Giraldéz, wonderful models, very bright, interesting and beautiful!
I’ve actually had really good luck with ulthuan grey, but Yh every other white/light grey from GW sucks
My favorite bearded RUclips)
White paint is always a pain and airbrushing doesn't make it any better. I have sprayed with my airbrush undiluted, pure white paint and it still comes out watery and it just won't spread evenly no matter what.
Hey very good video but what is the name or the model of the mini see in the minute 4:37
The Kitsune? There is a link in the description
@@Zumikito thanks
Have you checked out Pro Acryl Titanium White by Monument Hobbies?