Wow...so glad you covered the non directional finish and washing the rotor. 40 years in the business and so many good techs miss these two steps and wonder why they have brake noise comebacks after a brake job with rotor turning. For comparison of rotor finish, get a new good quality rotor and compare the finish to a rotor that you turn and don't put the ND finish on.
At the shop that I was at, to put on the nondirectional finish we used a die grinder with the 3M screw on pads. Also we washed the rotors off with the hot pressure washer.
Good video but I seen a couple mistakes. 2 thousands is to light of a cut. Heat doesn't transfer from the bit correctly and you can wear out your bit faster. Should always take 4 to 6 thousand. Using that type of silencer you should have the little metal pin sitting on the tips of the blade. And the handle of the silencers should be laying flat against the twin cutter.Rotor should be positioned closer to the center of the machine. In other words you have your spindle cranked too far out. Less vibration if the rotor is closer to the machine. After the scratch cut you should always hand crank the cross-feed out to cut off the lip at the edge of the rotor if there is one. Otherwise pretty good video
Watching your video again I do think it's great that you show to wash the rotor off with soap and water. Lot of guys don't do that and that magnetic dust that you're talkin about that can go into the pad cause squeaks
@xavier arellano its iron what toxic debris are you talking about?, you pollute a lot more pouring you morning bacon waste grease down the drain, inform yourself better before making ignorant remarks
Looks ok, but... All the moving the bits in and out, why? If the rust ridge is very thick that's a good way to break your bits. Speaking of which you never checked. When the tips look white the bit is dull, rotate, flip or replace. Hint: if rust ridge is bad use a dull bit to knock it down. The "ridge" is heat hardened compared to the meat of the rotor. Bonus points for rotating 180% to check mounting is square.
bueno compa el titulo esta ingles, el vato nunca trato de hacerlo en español, por que no mejor aprendes ingles y asi tienes acceso a mucha mas informacion en lugar de esperar a que te traduzcan las cosas y hacer comentarios negativos por que no se te da gusto.
Very accurate demo. You forgot to use a silencer band. This is one of the best demo’s I’ve seen. I’m a 20 year certified AMMCO tech. Nice work.
Great old brake lathe as I bought one for our shop in Saudi Arabia many yrs ago.
my left ear enjoyed this video
Wow...so glad you covered the non directional finish and washing the rotor. 40 years in the business and so many good techs miss these two steps and wonder why they have brake noise comebacks after a brake job with rotor turning. For comparison of rotor finish, get a new good quality rotor and compare the finish to a rotor that you turn and don't put the ND finish on.
At the shop that I was at, to put on the nondirectional finish we used a die grinder with the 3M screw on pads. Also we washed the rotors off with the hot pressure washer.
Good video but I seen a couple mistakes. 2 thousands is to light of a cut. Heat doesn't transfer from the bit correctly and you can wear out your bit faster. Should always take 4 to 6 thousand. Using that type of silencer you should have the little metal pin sitting on the tips of the blade. And the handle of the silencers should be laying flat against the twin cutter.Rotor should be positioned closer to the center of the machine. In other words you have your spindle cranked too far out. Less vibration if the rotor is closer to the machine. After the scratch cut you should always hand crank the cross-feed out to cut off the lip at the edge of the rotor if there is one. Otherwise pretty good video
Watching your video again I do think it's great that you show to wash the rotor off with soap and water. Lot of guys don't do that and that magnetic dust that you're talkin about that can go into the pad cause squeaks
@xavier arellano toxic brake debris??? They haven't used anything toxic in Brakes in 30 years
@xavier arellano its iron what toxic debris are you talking about?, you pollute a lot more pouring you morning bacon waste grease down the drain, inform yourself better before making ignorant remarks
Nice tutorial, thanks for posting 👍
Very nice tutorial... Thanks
Looks ok, but...
All the moving the bits in and out, why? If the rust ridge is very thick that's a good way to break your bits. Speaking of which you never checked. When the tips look white the bit is dull, rotate, flip or replace. Hint: if rust ridge is bad use a dull bit to knock it down. The "ridge" is heat hardened compared to the meat of the rotor.
Bonus points for rotating 180% to check mounting is square.
Your not all wrong, removing the rust ring is standard procedure. Remember, negative rake bits can be flipped, positive cannot.
one word AMATEUR...
he forgot to tell people to tighten the nut at the back fot the drum feed if you do not the arbor can move sideways and stuff the rotor
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Tendría alguna utilidad en su caso, si lo publicaran en español, de lo contrario se desperdicia la intención positiva de documentar a los usuariios.
bueno compa el titulo esta ingles, el vato nunca trato de hacerlo en español, por que no mejor aprendes ingles y asi tienes acceso a mucha mas informacion en lugar de esperar a que te traduzcan las cosas y hacer comentarios negativos por que no se te da gusto.
All I can really hear us a lot of static and some very muffled speaking