Hello @Dr. D-Flo You defenitly need angular bearings (tapered roller bearings if that's translated correctly). Otherwise your lowest steering bearing will be worn out very fast, especially if you want to drive over bumps. keep in mind when using an taper bearing you need to put it to the setting to not overtighten it, and neither have play. To achieve that it's better to have both bearings as tapered bearings. (halfway watching when writing this comment).
This E-Scooter build is my first major project that puts all my new CNC machines to work. I learned a lot about machining and fabricating during this build and I’m happy to share some of these lessons over the course of the video. Also, it turns out I have a hard time enunciating the phrase “bolt holes.” So enjoy that one!
Are you selling kits to build yourself precut and everything? Are you able to sell all aluminum parts cut and tapped? The rest is easy for DIY people with wiring.
Nice build, but a few thoughts: You're right about using the wrong kind of bearing for the headset. You want thrust bearings, tapered roller bearings are the what they normally use for bikes and scooters. A simple modification to your set screws is just to drill and tap the inner tube. Use thread lock so they don't back out - make sure you pick one suitable for aluminum as regular threadlocker for steel will not work. Still not sure you'll want to lift the scooter by the handlebars though as it looks pretty heavy. Regarding the connection from deck to headset, those hexagons are a terrible idea and make it much, much weaker (and doesn't look very good to me at least). Not only is it now much thinner, but those corners inside the hexagons will become points of stress concentration. The fact that you used thick plate might be enough to compensate, but I'd just do it again. Don't forget that most things make of 'aluminum' are actually aluminum ALLOY. Pure aluminum like you are using is very soft and not very strong as shown by your set screws crushing the steering column. The holes in the side of the deck are fine as they are in the middle - think I beam / RSJ. Because there's no suspension to absorb the impact, hitting even a small pot hole at high speed could subject the scooter to the equivalent many times your body weight. If you do remake the bracket, you could experiment with adding a couple of degrees of caster to the front wheel by not attaching the headset at exactly 90 degrees. In theory it should make the steering want to return to the center by itself, making it more stable at higher speed. You say the handle bars will turn 360, but given that you are guaranteed to fall off if that happened when you are riding, you might want to put limiters in place. Really glad to see you wearing a helmet, but in case you didn't know they make ebike specific helmets that are rated for higher speed impacts. Worth investing if you are going to be using it at top speed - it only takes one person not looking where they're going.
I second the comments about the plates you made for your neck. Consider using a springy alloy of aluminum or steel to help with shock absorption. I was hoping those hex plates wouldn't snap when you hit a big bump. Screws in joints that are susceptible to shear forces (like those at the neck/deck and neck/steering tube) are highly susceptible to work hardening/ metal fatigue, and can part under load in an unpredictable way, leading to a cascading failure mode that severs the front wheel and steering column from the deck. There are brazing alloys that work with aluminum that would greatly improve your joint strength (blue demon rods get a good review), as well as insets/ joinery that lets the metal edges bear some of the forces, not just the screws. Energy increases as the square of the velocity, so I recommend making the neck/deck and nec/steering tube joints extra skookum, as they will have both large torque loads on them and the largest amount of metal fatigue. P.s.: I dig the light strip.
@@avoirdupois1 +1 For more Skookum :P Mostly agree, but think with that many bolts it’ll be fine, as long as they’re hardened. If they’re torqued down you’ll get a lot of strength from the friction of the two faces pressing on each other.
This is great I like the LED light integration as well as the boxy beefed-up design! Maybe you could look into some materials engineering to get a lighter design I'm not sure. Also, some waterproofing of the electrical components in the body might be good. maybe just a colorful plastic membrane that covers the hexagonal holes in a tight waterproof manner. would look cool with some color in the hex holes. Can't wait to see what you come up with.
Great work. I build E-veihcles too. Regarding the old probe, just be sure that you disconnect the probe after used otherwise the constant low current will wear out contacts really fast. The new amazing probe you got has an antioxidant fluid in the cap so it will last longer but be sure to disconnect it adter use.
This is a really interesting project. Nicely done. A next trick to cut out parts that go all of the way through the material without tabs is to superglue the stock to a sacrificial base plate (that you can re face later) and when you are done heat the part gently and the superglue will release. Make sure to remove oil before gluing. To reduce chatter and squealing when you are milling hollow bars, you can rap a piece(s) of hose up and stuff them inside.
Nice build man! I'm starting my own build so I'm checking scooter builds on RUclips to get some inspiration. You might've found out the hard way by now but, You'll kill radial bearings super fast with axial load in your steering, even tho they're over dimensioned
TTS tool holder is referenced off the spindle nose, not the collet. Try using slightly larger diameter end mills for the finish pass to increase the stiffness of the endmill. YG-1 Alupower makes cost-effective carbide endmills that provide an excellent finish on aluminum parts. Also, try to use about 6% of cutter diameter for WOC for finish passes. I find it reduces the vibration and allows you to cut at a faster feed rate.
Grate channel, and grate build! My only concerns are about too many connected parts, from the front wheel fork to the steering rod. I would suggest a more sturdy construction, with only one connection point. Continue the grate work!
What a great build , and plus for you , since you have a machine shop in your garage , that an Aerospace company would be jealous of. 😄 But it would be nice if you did put some suspension or a shock absorbion scooter , maybe extend the handle bars to a length that can a natural balance or use mountain bike handle bars ( maybe a 28"-30" bar). Since the long neck is very beefy and for it to fold to transport in a vehicle would be cool. All in all a great video and build. I would love to see an update to this scooter 👍🏼
On the inside of the deck, behind the hexagon side panels, place a thin sheet of frosted plastic, then add addressable rgbs in the main chamber. Wire up to a small controller and have color shifting awesome fun side deck lighting.
Really cool project. I built one from scratch too. One note: I have the steering column angled toward the rider because I'm scared of hitting a bump and going over the handlebars!
Great video! A few tips if you're open to them. Get stub length tools and a fly cutter to do the flat sides instead of going deep. For the fork rigidity, try even a slight staggering of the bolts instead of having them in a line or gusset piece. Lastly, the bench test of the motor was a no-load condition which is when the motor has no more torque to give to external inertial loads. Since power = force (torque) * acceleration, you have no power for accelerating you and the scooter. Max power out of the motor (ideally) will be near half of the no-load speed. Efficiency is up near 75% of no-load speed. Ooof, a lot of the structural integrity just went out the window with that long slot cut. Your head-tube to frame bracket is too thin and cutting the material out the way you did made it a lot weaker. I fear that is the biggest structural issue that is un-safe. Get a little bit of FEA work in a free version of Autodesk Fusion 360. Fantastic job manufacturing a billet scooter. I'm jealous, it looked like a lot of fun to design. Now go and anodize each part a different color :)
Always open to suggestions 👍. I may not have emphasized it enough but this was just my first iteration. My background in fabrication and machining is limited, so I’m relying on friends and RUclips comments to set me straight for my next iteration. Thank you for taking the time to make these suggestions. They will be used when I go back to the drawing board
@@DrDFlo You're doing everything right... including the suspect design choices. Humility and openness to constructive crit, which you are clearing doing, is going to get you far. I didn't get to compliment your creative problem solving skills. Overall your ability to see the different tools and try and utilize them best is impressive. Good luck with the next iteration and keep that joy of making things alive!
wow awsome effort to build. looks very unique, wish to have that one here. carry to downtown so proud no one have same looks like my scoot.. nice work bro! greetings from Philippines.
Nice! I would stick with that battery if I were you. In other news, your battery pack is pretty much finished, just the BMS's to connect (which is trivial). After seeing your plan "B" battery, I'm not sure what you are going to do with it. :) Rather than desoldering the components on the internal BMS, I scraped them off using a ceramic knife. That worked far better than I ever imagined it would. BTW, that was one hell of a lot of slitting, scraping, stripping, sanding, and soldering.
Yes yes yes - I was hoping someone would let you know this - it will make your scooter ride so much better. Great vid and content, happy to subscribe. Also, you might think about moving your grinder away from you mill!
This is coincidental since after watching your " How to ... 3d printer..." video, I decided to build an e-skateboard using a large-wheeled hub (for silence & efficiency) motor. I'm building some of the skateboard "alpha prototype" parts from the Zidex printer I ordered from the OpenBuilds company. My board is going to have suspension, AWD, and a gigantic battery (even bigger than the Lacroix Supersport skateboard which I almost bought, but crazy expensive) as I want lots of range & also enormous torque to get me and my schoolbag up the hilly streets at around 20mph. Sorry, but having a jogger pass me on a board is unacceptably embarrassing lol! Thanks again for another great DIY video!
Man im in love with your channel please keep it up!!! hahahahaha, Garage engineers forever, You inspire me to share my projects too, will make sure to hit you up when i do, pretty sure you'll love them
Look into rake and trail. It would be very cool with a mini springer front end based on valve springs or something similar. With the hub motor, you would have an easy swing arm construction or a little suspension in the rear also.
Could you maybe do something like a bike headset setup to lighten up the scooter a little, that way you could use standard bearings, cups, stem riser and handle bars from a mountain bike. And you could still keep that chunky look by having a thick walled tube.
I know, I'm a bit late to coment on this video since it was published two years ago. And maybe someone else already commented on this point: I wonder, if the connection between the fork legs and the center piece would have a better positive mechanical engagement by positioning the screws verticaly instead of horizontal? In this horizontal direction I would asume, that they have to withstand some degree of sheering force while braking/accelerating. Granted, the overall beefy construction of the scooter probably compensates for that. Going by gut feeling, the number of screws per side should have enough pretension to generate a connection by friction to withstand the weight and kinematic forces. Also, this orientation is just a killer look. 😎
A great design and build, congrats ! I did get kind of nervous at all the sharp edges and cornes. It would not be bad to bevel them slightly. It will not compromise the look all that much and greatly reduce the odds of cuts during minor mishaps.
Well designed and executed. What software are you using to control your cnc mill. I just purchased a cnc and am planning on using mach3 but the software you're using might be better. What is the estimated scooter cost?
I am putting together a web page with all the supplies and costs. But roughly this scooter cost about $1k (Motor and electronics $400, battery $350, raw material & tooling ~$250 Edit: Software is LinuxCNC with Probe Basic GUI. I have video on the conversion: ruclips.net/video/qDr81TccvMY/видео.html
My videos are focused on the makers and garage engineers who want to follow along every step of the way. This is not content geared towards the masses. But I appreciate your comment!
To prevent the bar to rotate when working with set screws, you should pre-drill a little hole into the bar (there's no need to drill all the way through, just so the tip of the set screw has some space - works best with conical set screws). So now the set screw does not just push "flat" on the bar (= rotation possible, when you realllly try), but it will push in this cavity = rotation literally impossible. Don't think threadlocker fluid is even needed. Depending on the size and how many of those set screws you use, you should be able to lift the whole thing up by the bar, too. edit: fixed grammar.
I appreciate your insight. I agree a small hole would have been a great idea for preventing the set screws from denting the tube and holding the tube stationary. At the time of building, it just seemed like set screws were undersized for the task of keeping the scooter together while I ride it at close to 30 mph!
1:00:00 I can see this bolt hole pattern as a potential problem, I can imagine a lot of stress in this place, micro fractures could form over time inside the metal and at the end it could crack
Awesome design/build/video. Really enjoyed it. It would look great if you anodized it! You implied that your commute is 5miles? Is the scooter your primary work transportation? Fun trips to work
Commute to work + errands after work is about 5 miles. But yes primary work transportation. I work at a university and the trip is mostly on roads with low speed limits
Hey DR D flo - This easilly could have been 4 or 5 videos. I think I would have enjoyed it more in that format 1 hour is a big big commitment these days, but little minute chunks, on the train or whatever, much more manageable.
Yes this is coming really soon! I had to put some things off at work to get this video out, and now I am playing catchup. Please check the description of this video in a couple of days for a website link to my BOM and Fusion 360 Parts.
This is fantastic. I would add a flange to the deck so you could put a seat on it occasionally, but that is mostly because I am lazy. Also might put a giant 500 watt sticker on the side of it so if you get pulled over you can at least pretend to not be running a motor that isnt street legal.
@@jon9947 Unless you’re riding dangerously you shouldn’t have any trouble, but doesn’t hurt to have. It’s also a bit of a joke that I find quite funny - especially when people put one on their 10,000+ watt e-bike 😅
You should really be using some XT90-S anti-spark plugs. They work, by having the first connection be through a high resistance that wont spark, and only then do the actual contacts connect.
Overall Great Design. Three Points Made me sneeze. First is the joining bridge, all those hexagon indents are just wrong. You better make a proper shape on that…! Possibily aided with topology optimization …! Second, the brakeline should be more protected. You don’t Want to Risk a damage on the brakeline when hopping some curbs. You could also not be aware of the damage and drive anyways. Third, you’d better have a proper wire management inside the box. Waiting for next steps!
I worry vibrations over time can losen the sodering points on the battery. Creating uneven distribution and potentially triggering the BMS to cut power during increased power consumption. I would definitely add foam on the bottom and sides of the battery to cushion it. Of course with such a tight fit you'll need a slightly bigger deck.
Mine was 55klm top speed with me on but running off the ground it goes to 60klm i need a new steering stem cause mine is cracked and i can't find a replacement wish i could make one but i don't have the equipment
Thanks man! Most of the steering is actually just me leaning one way or another, but when I do turn the steering column there is no twitchiness. I did not notice a rake/caster angle on my old E-scooter that inspired this build, but I will look into this further. Thanks for the tip Edit: wording
Dr. D-Flo, I saw this video and I thought it was very inspiring. the fact that you were able to build a scooter from scratch was awesome. even if you have to make changes to it, the fact is, you accomplished it. Nice job.
Please reroute your brake cable to anywhere but the bottom. It will get mashed and all of those guides scraped right off at the first speed bump or curb you bottom out on. You have precious little clearance as it is. An escooter user.
The longer end mill could have been 1/2" or something even beefier for every operation I saw. I've done a couple of 2000 watt Schwinn conversions. As I remember, 10kmah lipo 10S gave me about 7 miles at 28mph. Over 10 at 20mph. And, it would climb any hill. Had to warn people before riding that it would pull the wheel on take off. ;-)
I’m actually having another problem with the mill that I didn’t get into in the video. I initially was running a half inch tool but it was creating so much downforce that it was sucking my Z-axis down - plunging the tool into the material. I either need a counterbalance or stronger motor for the Z-axis.
@@DrDFlo ?? Are saying the your quill lock was unable to hold the quill in position? Or are you saying the cutting loads were pulling the cutter out of the collet? If it pulling the quill down, you could run the quill all the way up, locked and use a down cut / reverse spiral cutter that pushes the chips down loading the quill upwards. If the tool was being sucked out of the collet I would wonder if you were running a 1/2" in a 13mm collet or something like that reducing the collets gripping surface dramatically. If the collect and cutter are correct, perhaps buy an emergency collet then machine it and run a setscrew into the flat on the cutter. I know, I know, set screw use usually indicates somebody with a poor mental model of forces and a collet should always be better. However, it is a professional practice in this situation. I hate set screws. ;-)
The collet and quill are fine. The cutting forces are overcoming the holding torque of the Z-axis stepper motor. It’s not anything dramatic, but over a 30 minute cut the tool will be 2mm deeper than the start of the cut. I ended up coming to this conclusion after marking the stepper motor’s shaft at the start of a cut and at the end it had rotated even though there was no additional step down. Could be a bad stepper driver or something wrong with the motor. It was an unlikely problem (usually it is collet or quill) I’m switching to AC servos now so that should fix the problem or at least error out if they are moved unintentionally
Hello @Dr. D-Flo You defenitly need angular bearings (tapered roller bearings if that's translated correctly). Otherwise your lowest steering bearing will be worn out very fast, especially if you want to drive over bumps. keep in mind when using an taper bearing you need to put it to the setting to not overtighten it, and neither have play. To achieve that it's better to have both bearings as tapered bearings. (halfway watching when writing this comment).
Yes this makes sense. That bearing choice was a small gaff on my part
This E-Scooter build is my first major project that puts all my new CNC machines to work. I learned a lot about machining and fabricating during this build and I’m happy to share some of these lessons over the course of the video.
Also, it turns out I have a hard time enunciating the phrase “bolt holes.” So enjoy that one!
I didn't watch, because at the first I read initial picture: why you need so many watts when speed is so small?! Your weight is 3 centners?
Things you'll need:
1. A factory
.
.
.
.
Great tut. Thank you! 🤗
Are you selling kits to build yourself precut and everything? Are you able to sell all aluminum parts cut and tapped? The rest is easy for DIY people with wiring.
Nice build, but a few thoughts:
You're right about using the wrong kind of bearing for the headset. You want thrust bearings, tapered roller bearings are the what they normally use for bikes and scooters.
A simple modification to your set screws is just to drill and tap the inner tube. Use thread lock so they don't back out - make sure you pick one suitable for aluminum as regular threadlocker for steel will not work. Still not sure you'll want to lift the scooter by the handlebars though as it looks pretty heavy.
Regarding the connection from deck to headset, those hexagons are a terrible idea and make it much, much weaker (and doesn't look very good to me at least). Not only is it now much thinner, but those corners inside the hexagons will become points of stress concentration. The fact that you used thick plate might be enough to compensate, but I'd just do it again. Don't forget that most things make of 'aluminum' are actually aluminum ALLOY. Pure aluminum like you are using is very soft and not very strong as shown by your set screws crushing the steering column. The holes in the side of the deck are fine as they are in the middle - think I beam / RSJ. Because there's no suspension to absorb the impact, hitting even a small pot hole at high speed could subject the scooter to the equivalent many times your body weight.
If you do remake the bracket, you could experiment with adding a couple of degrees of caster to the front wheel by not attaching the headset at exactly 90 degrees. In theory it should make the steering want to return to the center by itself, making it more stable at higher speed.
You say the handle bars will turn 360, but given that you are guaranteed to fall off if that happened when you are riding, you might want to put limiters in place.
Really glad to see you wearing a helmet, but in case you didn't know they make ebike specific helmets that are rated for higher speed impacts. Worth investing if you are going to be using it at top speed - it only takes one person not looking where they're going.
I second the comments about the plates you made for your neck. Consider using a springy alloy of aluminum or steel to help with shock absorption. I was hoping those hex plates wouldn't snap when you hit a big bump. Screws in joints that are susceptible to shear forces (like those at the neck/deck and neck/steering tube) are highly susceptible to work hardening/ metal fatigue, and can part under load in an unpredictable way, leading to a cascading failure mode that severs the front wheel and steering column from the deck. There are brazing alloys that work with aluminum that would greatly improve your joint strength (blue demon rods get a good review), as well as insets/ joinery that lets the metal edges bear some of the forces, not just the screws. Energy increases as the square of the velocity, so I recommend making the neck/deck and nec/steering tube joints extra skookum, as they will have both large torque loads on them and the largest amount of metal fatigue. P.s.: I dig the light strip.
@@avoirdupois1 +1 For more Skookum :P Mostly agree, but think with that many bolts it’ll be fine, as long as they’re hardened. If they’re torqued down you’ll get a lot of strength from the friction of the two faces pressing on each other.
The patient you have with all your projects and skills. Your girlfriend deserves a medal 😂
Great project liked watching it!
This is great I like the LED light integration as well as the boxy beefed-up design! Maybe you could look into some materials engineering to get a lighter design I'm not sure. Also, some waterproofing of the electrical components in the body might be good. maybe just a colorful plastic membrane that covers the hexagonal holes in a tight waterproof manner. would look cool with some color in the hex holes. Can't wait to see what you come up with.
Great work. I build E-veihcles too. Regarding the old probe, just be sure that you disconnect the probe after used otherwise the constant low current will wear out contacts really fast. The new amazing probe you got has an antioxidant fluid in the cap so it will last longer but be sure to disconnect it adter use.
Last scene: revenge sweet revenge😅
39:52 She looks very happy of her new spanking paddles, personally I find them terrifying 😂 😂
This is a really interesting project. Nicely done. A next trick to cut out parts that go all of the way through the material without tabs is to superglue the stock to a sacrificial base plate (that you can re face later) and when you are done heat the part gently and the superglue will release. Make sure to remove oil before gluing. To reduce chatter and squealing when you are milling hollow bars, you can rap a piece(s) of hose up and stuff them inside.
...and of course if you need turned parts, I will be happy to help.
Beautiful milling Bro., Love your machines.
Nice build man! I'm starting my own build so I'm checking scooter builds on RUclips to get some inspiration.
You might've found out the hard way by now but,
You'll kill radial bearings super fast with axial load in your steering, even tho they're over dimensioned
Thank you for going so in depth on this build, really enjoyed watching!
TTS tool holder is referenced off the spindle nose, not the collet. Try using slightly larger diameter end mills for the finish pass to increase the stiffness of the endmill. YG-1 Alupower makes cost-effective carbide endmills that provide an excellent finish on aluminum parts. Also, try to use about 6% of cutter diameter for WOC for finish passes. I find it reduces the vibration and allows you to cut at a faster feed rate.
dear RUclips
i need a LOVE button for this video
Grate channel, and grate build! My only concerns are about too many connected parts, from the front wheel fork to the steering rod. I would suggest a more sturdy construction, with only one connection point. Continue the grate work!
Love how you got revenge on that jogger in the end of the video haha!
*Works great, comfortable too*
Do you think its worth it to use a contactor or soft starter or something to connect the battery?
Great Job, David 👍👍
Great project! Just curios how you are generating your g-code. Are you using a CAM program like Fusion 360 or conversational programing?
What a great build , and plus for you , since you have a machine shop in your garage , that an Aerospace company would be jealous of. 😄 But it would be nice if you did put some suspension or a shock absorbion scooter , maybe extend the handle bars to a length that can a natural balance or use mountain bike handle bars ( maybe a 28"-30" bar). Since the long neck is very beefy and for it to fold to transport in a vehicle would be cool.
All in all a great video and build. I would love to see an update to this scooter 👍🏼
On the inside of the deck, behind the hexagon side panels, place a thin sheet of frosted plastic, then add addressable rgbs in the main chamber. Wire up to a small controller and have color shifting awesome fun side deck lighting.
Really cool project. I built one from scratch too. One note: I have the steering column angled toward the rider because I'm scared of hitting a bump and going over the handlebars!
It's not only that. It also inproves handling.
smart man. great work and cheers. Where did you find a 1000 watt in hub motor? The largest in hub motor i am able to find is 750 watts.
Great vid 🤟
Did you make it out of aluminum material? What is the material thickness? how much is the total weight
Great video! A few tips if you're open to them. Get stub length tools and a fly cutter to do the flat sides instead of going deep. For the fork rigidity, try even a slight staggering of the bolts instead of having them in a line or gusset piece. Lastly, the bench test of the motor was a no-load condition which is when the motor has no more torque to give to external inertial loads. Since power = force (torque) * acceleration, you have no power for accelerating you and the scooter. Max power out of the motor (ideally) will be near half of the no-load speed. Efficiency is up near 75% of no-load speed. Ooof, a lot of the structural integrity just went out the window with that long slot cut. Your head-tube to frame bracket is too thin and cutting the material out the way you did made it a lot weaker. I fear that is the biggest structural issue that is un-safe. Get a little bit of FEA work in a free version of Autodesk Fusion 360.
Fantastic job manufacturing a billet scooter. I'm jealous, it looked like a lot of fun to design. Now go and anodize each part a different color :)
Always open to suggestions 👍. I may not have emphasized it enough but this was just my first iteration. My background in fabrication and machining is limited, so I’m relying on friends and RUclips comments to set me straight for my next iteration. Thank you for taking the time to make these suggestions. They will be used when I go back to the drawing board
@@DrDFlo You're doing everything right... including the suspect design choices. Humility and openness to constructive crit, which you are clearing doing, is going to get you far. I didn't get to compliment your creative problem solving skills. Overall your ability to see the different tools and try and utilize them best is impressive. Good luck with the next iteration and keep that joy of making things alive!
wow awsome effort to build. looks very unique, wish to have that one here. carry to downtown so proud no one have same looks like my scoot.. nice work bro!
greetings from Philippines.
Nice! I would stick with that battery if I were you. In other news, your battery pack is pretty much finished, just the BMS's to connect (which is trivial). After seeing your plan "B" battery, I'm not sure what you are going to do with it. :)
Rather than desoldering the components on the internal BMS, I scraped them off using a ceramic knife. That worked far better than I ever imagined it would.
BTW, that was one hell of a lot of slitting, scraping, stripping, sanding, and soldering.
I would add caster to the front wheel. This is on every bike, moiorcycle on the road today. This will make the scooter more stable in my opinion.
Yes yes yes - I was hoping someone would let you know this - it will make your scooter ride so much better. Great vid and content, happy to subscribe. Also, you might think about moving your grinder away from you mill!
This is coincidental since after watching your " How to ... 3d printer..." video, I decided to build an e-skateboard using a large-wheeled hub (for silence & efficiency) motor. I'm building some of the skateboard "alpha prototype" parts from the Zidex printer I ordered from the OpenBuilds company. My board is going to have suspension, AWD, and a gigantic battery (even bigger than the Lacroix Supersport skateboard which I almost bought, but crazy expensive) as I want lots of range & also enormous torque to get me and my schoolbag up the hilly streets at around 20mph. Sorry, but having a jogger pass me on a board is unacceptably embarrassing lol! Thanks again for another great DIY video!
Nice job man!
Man im in love with your channel please keep it up!!! hahahahaha, Garage engineers forever,
You inspire me to share my projects too, will make sure to hit you up when i do, pretty sure you'll love them
Thanks man! Good luck with your projects
Nice build!!!
Look into rake and trail. It would be very cool with a mini springer front end based on valve springs or something similar. With the hub motor, you would have an easy swing arm construction or a little suspension in the rear also.
Could you maybe do something like a bike headset setup to lighten up the scooter a little, that way you could use standard bearings, cups, stem riser and handle bars from a mountain bike. And you could still keep that chunky look by having a thick walled tube.
I know, I'm a bit late to coment on this video since it was published two years ago. And maybe someone else already commented on this point:
I wonder, if the connection between the fork legs and the center piece would have a better positive mechanical engagement by positioning the screws verticaly instead of horizontal? In this horizontal direction I would asume, that they have to withstand some degree of sheering force while braking/accelerating.
Granted, the overall beefy construction of the scooter probably compensates for that. Going by gut feeling, the number of screws per side should have enough pretension to generate a connection by friction to withstand the weight and kinematic forces.
Also, this orientation is just a killer look. 😎
i thinks this is pretty cool project
A great design and build, congrats ! I did get kind of nervous at all the sharp edges and cornes. It would not be bad to bevel them slightly. It will not compromise the look all that much and greatly reduce the odds of cuts during minor mishaps.
Yesssss, need tapered roller bearings in the headstock. They live under constant sideways load.
Well designed and executed. What software are you using to control your cnc mill. I just purchased a cnc and am planning on using mach3 but the software you're using might be better.
What is the estimated scooter cost?
I am putting together a web page with all the supplies and costs. But roughly this scooter cost about $1k (Motor and electronics $400, battery $350, raw material & tooling ~$250
Edit: Software is LinuxCNC with Probe Basic GUI. I have video on the conversion: ruclips.net/video/qDr81TccvMY/видео.html
Nice video!! Thx!! Is it possible to set the maximum speed on the controller? For example maximum 25km/h?
What's the specs of that battery? How long can you run with it?
Your explanation is very neat and good! Thanks for the video!
Love your job! Awesome engineering!
That ending made me laugh!))) Nice video editing!)))
Hi . do you need bms for you battery pack？
I'm in the Nashville , how could I contact you about maybe a build for my Husband??
Thanks & Godbless!!
You so underrated my friend 😢❤️
My videos are focused on the makers and garage engineers who want to follow along every step of the way. This is not content geared towards the masses. But I appreciate your comment!
Another awesome build Dr.
Thank you for this video’s awesome animations!!
Are they all aluminum?
To prevent the bar to rotate when working with set screws, you should pre-drill a little hole into the bar (there's no need to drill all the way through, just so the tip of the set screw has some space - works best with conical set screws). So now the set screw does not just push "flat" on the bar (= rotation possible, when you realllly try), but it will push in this cavity = rotation literally impossible.
Don't think threadlocker fluid is even needed. Depending on the size and how many of those set screws you use, you should be able to lift the whole thing up by the bar, too.
edit: fixed grammar.
I appreciate your insight. I agree a small hole would have been a great idea for preventing the set screws from denting the tube and holding the tube stationary.
At the time of building, it just seemed like set screws were undersized for the task of keeping the scooter together while I ride it at close to 30 mph!
Don't the bearings seem to fit a little loose?
Darn good product!
Great channel man!... the viewers will come.
Would I know the weight of this? Thank you
great job
You have a fun life my friend. That is wicked build.
1:00:00 I can see this bolt hole pattern as a potential problem, I can imagine a lot of stress in this place, micro fractures could form over time inside the metal and at the end it could crack
hey what breakout board are you using/ and Linux i never seen one like that what one are you using and how did you install it?
Awesome design/build/video. Really enjoyed it. It would look great if you anodized it! You implied that your commute is 5miles? Is the scooter your primary work transportation? Fun trips to work
Commute to work + errands after work is about 5 miles. But yes primary work transportation. I work at a university and the trip is mostly on roads with low speed limits
Is there a reason caster is not needed?
Please do a diy video on converting a knee scooter into a seated electric scooter. Please pretty please! I’ll bet you’ll go viral!
Whats the Name of the kit that you bought for the motor?
Woulf you ever sell the frame as a kit ?
is this out of aluminium?
Hey DR D flo - This easilly could have been 4 or 5 videos. I think I would have enjoyed it more in that format
1 hour is a big big commitment these days, but little minute chunks, on the train or whatever, much more manageable.
Did you use the IDEX to print the 3d printed parts ?
Yes sir 👍 only needed one extruder so kind of boring
So what's the total weight of the scooter?
angular contact bearings for the steering for shure, then make it adjustable with a big nut
Could you post a part list with links?
Yes this is coming really soon! I had to put some things off at work to get this video out, and now I am playing catchup. Please check the description of this video in a couple of days for a website link to my BOM and Fusion 360 Parts.
This is fantastic. I would add a flange to the deck so you could put a seat on it occasionally, but that is mostly because I am lazy.
Also might put a giant 500 watt sticker on the side of it so if you get pulled over you can at least pretend to not be running a motor that isnt street legal.
The classic sticker is the Bosch 250w, as that is the limit in much of europe and one of the most common motor brand for ebikes
@@JPEight So it is even lower than I thought, I just knew that 1000watts was over the limit haha
That is ok thought, I was only joking with him.
@@jon9947 Unless you’re riding dangerously you shouldn’t have any trouble, but doesn’t hurt to have. It’s also a bit of a joke that I find quite funny - especially when people put one on their 10,000+ watt e-bike 😅
Link to the motor?
Nice looking Plasma you got there!!!
Dont most scooters have the handlebars and wheel holdy bit laid back for some sort of stability reason I cant think of?
yes it’s called caster angle
You should really be using some XT90-S anti-spark plugs.
They work, by having the first connection be through a high resistance that wont spark, and only then do the actual contacts connect.
Overall Great Design. Three Points Made me sneeze. First is the joining bridge, all those hexagon indents are just wrong. You better make a proper shape on that…! Possibily aided with topology optimization …! Second, the brakeline should be more protected. You don’t Want to Risk a damage on the brakeline when hopping some curbs. You could also not be aware of the damage and drive anyways. Third, you’d better have a proper wire management inside the box. Waiting for next steps!
Awesome
nice project and appreciate you didn't brake it into 1000 videos series..
Should take a few notes from the ElectroBoom channel. A few electrical shocks and explosions will greatly increase your viewership.
I worry vibrations over time can losen the sodering points on the battery. Creating uneven distribution and potentially triggering the BMS to cut power during increased power consumption.
I would definitely add foam on the bottom and sides of the battery to cushion it. Of course with such a tight fit you'll need a slightly bigger deck.
Great foresight! I will consider this when I start to plan out my next iteration. I’m looking at some shocks as well
Mine was 55klm top speed with me on but running off the ground it goes to 60klm i need a new steering stem cause mine is cracked and i can't find a replacement wish i could make one but i don't have the equipment
Very cool, you should make a 3d printed one and compare.
can you build smart wheelchair with monitor and ai automation?
Great project. I would think the steering would be twitchy though without steering rake/caster.
Thanks man! Most of the steering is actually just me leaning one way or another, but when I do turn the steering column there is no twitchiness. I did not notice a rake/caster angle on my old E-scooter that inspired this build, but I will look into this further. Thanks for the tip
Edit: wording
Dr. D-Flo, I saw this video and I thought it was very inspiring. the fact that you were able to build a scooter from scratch was awesome. even if you have to make changes to it, the fact is, you accomplished it. Nice job.
your the greatest
53:50 You should have a precharge loom or circuit - then you will not fry the electronics ..or shit your pants :-)
And this is why I make RUclips content. Great advice. I just read up on it and that will do the trick. I appreciate the advice
Awesome. Excited to see this project.
Please reroute your brake cable to anywhere but the bottom. It will get mashed and all of those guides scraped right off at the first speed bump or curb you bottom out on. You have precious little clearance as it is. An escooter user.
Next Up: CYBER Cycle!
Please, pretty please? 😅
I like it
The longer end mill could have been 1/2" or something even beefier for every operation I saw. I've done a couple of 2000 watt Schwinn conversions. As I remember, 10kmah lipo 10S gave me about 7 miles at 28mph. Over 10 at 20mph. And, it would climb any hill. Had to warn people before riding that it would pull the wheel on take off. ;-)
I’m actually having another problem with the mill that I didn’t get into in the video. I initially was running a half inch tool but it was creating so much downforce that it was sucking my Z-axis down - plunging the tool into the material. I either need a counterbalance or stronger motor for the Z-axis.
@@DrDFlo ?? Are saying the your quill lock was unable to hold the quill in position? Or are you saying the cutting loads were pulling the cutter out of the collet? If it pulling the quill down, you could run the quill all the way up, locked and use a down cut / reverse spiral cutter that pushes the chips down loading the quill upwards. If the tool was being sucked out of the collet I would wonder if you were running a 1/2" in a 13mm collet or something like that reducing the collets gripping surface dramatically. If the collect and cutter are correct, perhaps buy an emergency collet then machine it and run a setscrew into the flat on the cutter. I know, I know, set screw use usually indicates somebody with a poor mental model of forces and a collet should always be better. However, it is a professional practice in this situation. I hate set screws. ;-)
The collet and quill are fine. The cutting forces are overcoming the holding torque of the Z-axis stepper motor. It’s not anything dramatic, but over a 30 minute cut the tool will be 2mm deeper than the start of the cut. I ended up coming to this conclusion after marking the stepper motor’s shaft at the start of a cut and at the end it had rotated even though there was no additional step down. Could be a bad stepper driver or something wrong with the motor. It was an unlikely problem (usually it is collet or quill) I’m switching to AC servos now so that should fix the problem or at least error out if they are moved unintentionally
Hola podrán traducir en español me encanta el programa y la Mecatronica es mi pasión
Good job 👏
Good 🔥🔥🔥
What engineering degree do you have?
Biomedical! I’m a cancer researcher, so not much to do with scooter building.
Hey ever need affordable laser cutting I have a 6kv fiber laser but you will have to import it as I live in India
I love it.. may you want give me a scooter for free.. hehehe..
I think my sons very very happy for this..
Someone got himself a camera gimbal 👍🏼