I bought a old dyno, fixed it, now I am using it since a couple of months. Because of you. I loved the way you test each little gain, it was inspiring for me.
Nice work. It can be pretty eye opening how some big changes do nothing and other small things do a lot. basically finding all the secrets no one wants to share
Do you like being told what to do? No? Your engine doesn't either, find out what it likes and give it what it wants. Anyone like to see some more 20v development? Just a warning though, if doesn't make any power, I am going to use the science to back up 16v's are better 😂
Absolutely want to see more 20v development. Literally been waiting for years to see it. Ive often heard that 16vs can make better "peak" numbers more reliably, but that 20vs of similar mod/development will have wider power bands than 16vs. Id love to see how true that is
Awesome 👍, that's what a proper tune also has to cover, not only the WOT and big HP numbers but also the driveability and economy. And that's what takes the big portion of time to make it right. Thanks a lot for showing this
Yup, WOT is generally easier and faster to get dialed in, than getting the rest nice. Also a lot people don't realize an aggressive big cam na engine is harder to tune than a turbo engine making double the power
I feel like proper injector timing is not about perfect power output, more about perfect fuel economy. During the power dyno pull You can se how with certain injection angles with same fuel amount results in richer mixture: so You can dial a proper injection angle and pull some of the fuell off in sake of fuel economy. On Idle - i was personaly noticing - the proper injection angle allows for very smooth idle even on slightly leaner AFR.
Exactly. It allows for the proper usage of fuel per injection cycle. It can also be adjusted at idle to help larger injectors get out of the non-linear range.
Pretty much what I expected, having tuned the same linage of engine with early types having double fire batch injection and later having full sequential with ability to tune EOI, there is bugger all difference, nothing above about 2500, and slightly margin of error stuff below and as the video suggested, just mainly small fuelling differences. EOI can by handy to get a little smoother and stable idle with big cams, but running leaner AFRs for big cams does most of the work for better idle.
I'd be interested to see if crazy high fuel pressures make any diff to power. Some of the Honda NA drag race boys swear by running super high fuel pressure for "better atomization" and make the last bit of power that way.
Thanks for the idea. i have been meaning to try this at some stage. I run factory regulators on all my stuff as they tend to me more reliable than the aftermarket stuff, otherwise would have done it long ago
I do injector timing on jeep 4.0 stock With haltech ecu In 360 was insane power big different than 400 I think u need to try engine all motor What i know u should adjust degree each rpms Idle 300 Mid throttle 350 Full throttle 420 Like this u will find better results And its about adding fuel in exhaust valve or maximum amount fuel intake
its all in the name of making power efficiently... playing injection timing sure does have its benefits for N.A especially when making power with lesser fuel... NICE..
Looked like it liked 350 better at really low rpm, but then 300 took over for everything else. Maybe ignition timing would alter the efficiency at the different rpm range points for the injector timing as well because of it.
Perhaps you could do a video about stepped headers trying to achieve the Formula 1 style screaming sound (see Maisteer's video for how he thinks it's done)
great video how about a video on the effect of changing the fuel injector dead time i had a problem running the car and the afr was super rich and had to lower the ve numbers substantially to get the car to run .. i found later that the injector dead time was set up for different injectors
Not many views/interest, so unlikely will do more on the subject. but, just do the same as the steady sate stuff, adjust and find what works best. check for how nice engine runs at low rpm and idle also. remembering engine will run different with different afr. so need to keep that into account and adjust if its changing with injector timing. not every engine will be the same
Hi I've been watching your videos since 2020 can you print a 3sge intake and with a 63ml back box. run it on the 7age just to just too see what it will sound like and kw run. If you don't it's cool love your Channel.
I know this is not fully correct to ask this, but have you also measured air cosumption, and made similar adjustments to make it not only iso-fuel, but also measure iso-air differences and/or keep both constant?Or could you do that, for science
Anyone done or ever considered experimenting with stepped headers on the 4A-G? Interested to find out about the potential sound and power differences, might try it out myself one day if I get my hands on a 'rolla Levin or MR2...
Only 100% pump gasoline? No ethanol at all? I tried just tried changing EOI (pretty much stock 4A-GE 16V on Link G4X) - i don't seem to get significant lambda changes like yours. I don't have a dyno though. :P
@@vertinskiyslava Обычно чем мощнее форсунка тем сильнее разница, если конечно нет демонических перекрытий которые всю смесь в фильтр выплёвывают, в таком случае на низких лучше наоборот лить в самой кульминации такта впуска, когда скорость всасывания максимальная. Ну и не считая того момента, когда некоторые льют в закрытый, за два оборота заранее и потом ноют с умным видом, мол при подаче в закрытый оно не едет
@@MrYrodz Не было разницы??? Да там пропасть разница!!! При чём видно как прибавилось сверху при впрыске в открытый, и как прибавилось снизу при впрыске ещё в закрытый PS смотри на изменение состава смеси, а не мощность. Поясню, при более правильной фазе - смесь обогащается, а значит после финальной отстройки, КПД двигателя будет выше, расход меньше, меньше вредных выбросов
@@Sat_tyre 20v has better intake (itb's etc), exhaust manifold, bigger cams, vvt , higher compression, lighter pistons, rods, flywheel. compared to any version of the 16v. Can't back it uo with science. but most likely those things are where at least a good part of the power comes from, factory vs factory.
If you missed it part one is here: ruclips.net/video/RSLuB03owaI/видео.html
I bought a old dyno, fixed it, now I am using it since a couple of months. Because of you. I loved the way you test each little gain, it was inspiring for me.
Nice work. It can be pretty eye opening how some big changes do nothing and other small things do a lot. basically finding all the secrets no one wants to share
@@Garage4age
Dear Santa, I wish Garage4AGE puts out a booklet of all his secrits found over the years that we can buy from his merch shop.
-mikeyee
Gotta make a G4A 4age cheat book and sell in the shop.
Do you like being told what to do? No? Your engine doesn't either, find out what it likes and give it what it wants.
Anyone like to see some more 20v development? Just a warning though, if doesn't make any power, I am going to use the science to back up 16v's are better 😂
Absolutely want to see more 20v development. Literally been waiting for years to see it.
Ive often heard that 16vs can make better "peak" numbers more reliably, but that 20vs of similar mod/development will have wider power bands than 16vs. Id love to see how true that is
hell yes. better or not, i'd like to see the difference between both head design
please do more 20v content, I would love to see what you could do with VVT-I like you have on the 16v, even if it ends up more limited on the 20v.
Yes please, bolt on mods and maybe then slight porting (what's possible to do to that cylinder head.)
+1 for more 20v stuff. Love to see what you can do with it.
Awesome 👍, that's what a proper tune also has to cover, not only the WOT and big HP numbers but also the driveability and economy. And that's what takes the big portion of time to make it right. Thanks a lot for showing this
Yup, WOT is generally easier and faster to get dialed in, than getting the rest nice. Also a lot people don't realize an aggressive big cam na engine is harder to tune than a turbo engine making double the power
I feel like proper injector timing is not about perfect power output, more about perfect fuel economy.
During the power dyno pull You can se how with certain injection angles with same fuel amount results in richer mixture: so You can dial a proper injection angle and pull some of the fuell off in sake of fuel economy.
On Idle - i was personaly noticing - the proper injection angle allows for very smooth idle even on slightly leaner AFR.
Exactly. It allows for the proper usage of fuel per injection cycle. It can also be adjusted at idle to help larger injectors get out of the non-linear range.
These videos are gold
Pretty much what I expected, having tuned the same linage of engine with early types having double fire batch injection and later having full sequential with ability to tune EOI, there is bugger all difference, nothing above about 2500, and slightly margin of error stuff below and as the video suggested, just mainly small fuelling differences. EOI can by handy to get a little smoother and stable idle with big cams, but running leaner AFRs for big cams does most of the work for better idle.
I'd be interested to see if crazy high fuel pressures make any diff to power. Some of the Honda NA drag race boys swear by running super high fuel pressure for "better atomization" and make the last bit of power that way.
Thanks for the idea. i have been meaning to try this at some stage. I run factory regulators on all my stuff as they tend to me more reliable than the aftermarket stuff, otherwise would have done it long ago
Really interesting to see the logic and process of your work.
I love to see more stuff like that.
I do injector timing on jeep 4.0 stock
With haltech ecu
In 360 was insane power big different than 400
I think u need to try engine all motor
What i know u should adjust degree each rpms
Idle 300
Mid throttle 350
Full throttle 420
Like this u will find better results
And its about adding fuel in exhaust valve or maximum amount fuel intake
its all in the name of making power efficiently...
playing injection timing sure does have its benefits for N.A especially when making power with lesser fuel...
NICE..
I love the dyno videos. No it’s not giant power but it’s proper testing and I love it.
Always quality comparisons
Looked like it liked 350 better at really low rpm, but then 300 took over for everything else. Maybe ignition timing would alter the efficiency at the different rpm range points for the injector timing as well because of it.
Nice video, again.
Perhaps you could do a video about stepped headers trying to achieve the Formula 1 style screaming sound (see Maisteer's video for how he thinks it's done)
Great channel, congratulations, very useful. A real mythbuster! :)
great video
how about a video on the effect of changing the fuel injector dead time
i had a problem running the car and the afr was super rich and had to lower the ve numbers substantially to get the car to run .. i found later that the injector dead time was set up for different injectors
I like how the afr plot at 6:29 makes it look like it went up into the real world to the roof and back down to your fan
must have a bit of a grounding issue there 😂
Low RPM (Idle-2500) comparison would be nice.. if you ever continue this. 🙂
Not many views/interest, so unlikely will do more on the subject. but, just do the same as the steady sate stuff, adjust and find what works best. check for how nice engine runs at low rpm and idle also. remembering engine will run different with different afr. so need to keep that into account and adjust if its changing with injector timing. not every engine will be the same
Thank you
Anyone else catch that the new Porsche turbo engines run at 14.7 at all times?? Even a full boost load.
I seen that, they have some pretty interesting strategies to keep everything happy.
Hi I've been watching your videos since 2020 can you print a 3sge intake and with a 63ml back box. run it on the 7age just to just too see what it will sound like and kw run. If you don't it's cool love your Channel.
I know this is not fully correct to ask this, but have you also measured air cosumption, and made similar adjustments to make it not only iso-fuel, but also measure iso-air differences and/or keep both constant?Or could you do that, for science
It does not cut off the fuel completly when breaking with engine.
you mean overrun cut on deceleration? it cuts all the fuel yes, ecu has adjustable delay before it cuts
Can you do a oil viscosity dyno test?
Cheers
👍
Anyone done or ever considered experimenting with stepped headers on the 4A-G? Interested to find out about the potential sound and power differences, might try it out myself one day if I get my hands on a 'rolla Levin or MR2...
His other motor already does. It makes an imperceptibly small difference to how an engine sounds, dont believe the (unproven) hype.
Thanks for the info! I'll take another look.
Only 100% pump gasoline? No ethanol at all?
I tried just tried changing EOI (pretty much stock 4A-GE 16V on Link G4X) - i don't seem to get significant lambda changes like yours. I don't have a dyno though. :P
yep boring old 95ron. 16v should be better at mixing fuel than 20v, so yeah i would expect less of a change
*Ну как бы ни для кого не секрет, и уже давно всем всё ясно - на большой нагрузке лей в открытый, на небольшой в закрытый*
В России это мало кому ясно, да и не все так однозначно, на разного размера форсунках это может немного по разному работать
@@vertinskiyslava Обычно чем мощнее форсунка тем сильнее разница, если конечно нет демонических перекрытий которые всю смесь в фильтр выплёвывают, в таком случае на низких лучше наоборот лить в самой кульминации такта впуска, когда скорость всасывания максимальная.
Ну и не считая того момента, когда некоторые льют в закрытый, за два оборота заранее и потом ноют с умным видом, мол при подаче в закрытый оно не едет
Так по результатам тестов в этом видео не было разницы когда лить при большой нагрузке
@@MrYrodz Не было разницы??? Да там пропасть разница!!!
При чём видно как прибавилось сверху при впрыске в открытый, и как прибавилось снизу при впрыске ещё в закрытый
PS смотри на изменение состава смеси, а не мощность. Поясню, при более правильной фазе - смесь обогащается, а значит после финальной отстройки, КПД двигателя будет выше, расход меньше, меньше вредных выбросов
@@bigroger1790 Максимальная разница между лучшим и худшим AFR на уровне 0,5, а это меньше 5%. Пропастью назвать это язык не поворачивается.
OK, now put in big injectors that give you a duty cycle WOT under 40% then you might see more results.
ruclips.net/video/RSLuB03owaI/видео.html < - part one has exactly that
So do you have a custom ecu in the car or how are you adjusting injection timing?
It has a link ecu
Why do you hate the 20v Mr G4a 😢
Haha, has been a joke amongst friends since forever ago. They go alright out of the box, but its not the head that makes them better
@@Garage4age in you opinion, are there any benefits to having 5 valves per cyl or are the lighter internals and itbs it’s playing card?
@@Sat_tyre 20v has better intake (itb's etc), exhaust manifold, bigger cams, vvt , higher compression, lighter pistons, rods, flywheel. compared to any version of the 16v. Can't back it uo with science. but most likely those things are where at least a good part of the power comes from, factory vs factory.